Another interesting video - thanks for taking so much time to put the videos together. I noticed that your Sawstop table saw has a crosscut table attached to it that is very similar to the Harvey ST-1500 crosscut table. A few weeks ago, I installed a Harvey ST-1500 crosscut table to the left wing on my late 1980s Delta Unisaw. I had to freehand drill three holes into the left wing of the saw to mount the crosscut table. I then must have spent at least 10 hours trying to fix the alignment of the crosscut table. I first found that it was dropping 1/16" lower than the table of the saw at the back of the saw, requiring one of the mounting holes to be drilled 1/32" larger. Then I found that the table's travel was not parallel to the miter slots, requiring shims to be added to the front edge of the table saw wing. The addition of those shims then caused the tilt angle of the table to change, leading to the miter bar colliding with the front of the table saw. After getting the table traveling true to the blade, I had to remove the miter bar to make a wide rip cut, and when the miter bar was returned to the table, I had to spend considerable time trying to get it to cut at a true 90 degrees again. After getting the table squared up again, I created a jig using MDF and red oak that fits into the miter bar slots on the crosscut sled to set the fence to 90 degrees. I then found that the jig was slightly off 90 degrees when crosscutting a 30" wide panel, where the leading edge of the panel was 1/32" narrower than the trailing edge (it was off by 1/16" when both ends were cut after flipping the board side-for-side with the same edge against the fence). I then calculated that I need to use a 0.023" feeler gauge (that is about 1/3 of a 1/16") between one end of the fence and the jig I created to set the miter bar for a 90 degree cut. I have been working with wood on and off for about 35 years, and never imagined that I would be using feeler gauges to achieve a 90 degree cut on a board - an accurate framing square is usually enough. How well do you like the crosscut sled on your Sawstop table saw? Do you have any difficulty setting it to a true 90 degrees after having to remove the miter bar for a wide rip cut?
Thanks for watching...and wow! What a pain...! I bought the crosscut table for my Sawstop with the table saw as a complete package, and I've actually been quite surprised how accurate it is. I honestly was not expecting that. If I need to remove the miter fence to make a wide rip, it's accurate when I reinstall it without having to retune. I still use a crosscut sled that I made, especially when I need to make a series of cross cuts on shorter stock at identical length (there's a little flex in those flip down stop flags on the Sawstop fence that I don't trust 100%), but other than that, I love it.
Thanks for the reply. I read that Harvey makes the crosscut table for Sawstop, so there are likely many similarities between the tables. The flip down stop flags oddly seem to be made from plastic, and I have noticed that there is maybe 1/64" of sideways flex in my table's stop flags. It is good to hear that your crosscut table is accurate - hopefully, that means mine will work acceptably now that it appears to be set up correctly for my table saw. I have historically relied on radial arm saws or miter saws for crosscuts, usually with very accurate results, but with a 13" to 15" crosscut limit without cutting from both sides of the board.
Thanks! And I'm having fun, so it's a pleasure. I have an under graduate degree in mechanical engineering, and building things has always been fun for me, so when I got into woodworking in the early 2000's, as I often say...it just got out of control, LOL.
Great video, Gerald. You have a new subscriber.
Awesome, thank you!
Another interesting video - thanks for taking so much time to put the videos together.
I noticed that your Sawstop table saw has a crosscut table attached to it that is very similar to the Harvey ST-1500 crosscut table. A few weeks ago, I installed a Harvey ST-1500 crosscut table to the left wing on my late 1980s Delta Unisaw. I had to freehand drill three holes into the left wing of the saw to mount the crosscut table. I then must have spent at least 10 hours trying to fix the alignment of the crosscut table. I first found that it was dropping 1/16" lower than the table of the saw at the back of the saw, requiring one of the mounting holes to be drilled 1/32" larger. Then I found that the table's travel was not parallel to the miter slots, requiring shims to be added to the front edge of the table saw wing. The addition of those shims then caused the tilt angle of the table to change, leading to the miter bar colliding with the front of the table saw. After getting the table traveling true to the blade, I had to remove the miter bar to make a wide rip cut, and when the miter bar was returned to the table, I had to spend considerable time trying to get it to cut at a true 90 degrees again. After getting the table squared up again, I created a jig using MDF and red oak that fits into the miter bar slots on the crosscut sled to set the fence to 90 degrees. I then found that the jig was slightly off 90 degrees when crosscutting a 30" wide panel, where the leading edge of the panel was 1/32" narrower than the trailing edge (it was off by 1/16" when both ends were cut after flipping the board side-for-side with the same edge against the fence). I then calculated that I need to use a 0.023" feeler gauge (that is about 1/3 of a 1/16") between one end of the fence and the jig I created to set the miter bar for a 90 degree cut. I have been working with wood on and off for about 35 years, and never imagined that I would be using feeler gauges to achieve a 90 degree cut on a board - an accurate framing square is usually enough.
How well do you like the crosscut sled on your Sawstop table saw? Do you have any difficulty setting it to a true 90 degrees after having to remove the miter bar for a wide rip cut?
Thanks for watching...and wow! What a pain...! I bought the crosscut table for my Sawstop with the table saw as a complete package, and I've actually been quite surprised how accurate it is. I honestly was not expecting that. If I need to remove the miter fence to make a wide rip, it's accurate when I reinstall it without having to retune. I still use a crosscut sled that I made, especially when I need to make a series of cross cuts on shorter stock at identical length (there's a little flex in those flip down stop flags on the Sawstop fence that I don't trust 100%), but other than that, I love it.
Thanks for the reply. I read that Harvey makes the crosscut table for Sawstop, so there are likely many similarities between the tables. The flip down stop flags oddly seem to be made from plastic, and I have noticed that there is maybe 1/64" of sideways flex in my table's stop flags. It is good to hear that your crosscut table is accurate - hopefully, that means mine will work acceptably now that it appears to be set up correctly for my table saw. I have historically relied on radial arm saws or miter saws for crosscuts, usually with very accurate results, but with a 13" to 15" crosscut limit without cutting from both sides of the board.
The Harvey crosscut table does look basically identical to the one I have.
Good video Gerald. Thanks for your time. What is your background? I can tell you’ve done this a while.
Thanks! And I'm having fun, so it's a pleasure. I have an under graduate degree in mechanical engineering, and building things has always been fun for me, so when I got into woodworking in the early 2000's, as I often say...it just got out of control, LOL.