Glad to see new content! I've supercharged SOHCs but never turbo'd a SOHC. Been considering swapping my 05TS but honestly I want to just turbo the motor as its already built. The tuning has had me at a wall. You knocked that down with your previous videos on tuning, I have a shit ton more research but you made things more understandable. The fact is, you inspired me to mess with the stock ecu. I've pulled my 02WRX Rom and modified the check engines but never anything else. Good stuff and mad respect!
I'm interested to know more about how you supercharged the SOHC and any advice you might have. I've got my parts list down and should be able to get an EJ257 shortblock soon. The biggest issue I see right now is the ECU tune because there isn't a definition for my car.
@@user-lz3sv5sw9u I welded up some brackets the hold the Eaton M62 (92 is just to big) I used the original pulley and just 12v jumped the clutch on it to stay engaged. Ended up with a 4 inch pulley( not %100 on the size) due to the stock size was only hitting 2 pounds at like 4.5k rpms. I also believed that the clutch was slipping. Couldn't figure that one out! I new pulley set the boost at 5 pounds. Had issues from the get go cause the throttle body was post charger. Created a pressure on the sensors that makes everything wonky. Fights to even idle. Made an adapter plate that mated the charger and throttle body so the body was before the charger. Fixed everything. No wiring really. Stock ecu. Put larger injectors in it and ironically didnt run good. Which in gold mans older videos, he kinda explained why they failed for me. I always wanted to hit 10psi with it but never went over 5psi. With what I wrote and learned now is , it was a ticking time bomb really. Tuning was a must.
Nice video, love the Subaru content! No worries about fixing past mistakes or admitting to them, I may have done some cringe or shady mods to my first car as well, almost 20 years later, im much more experienced and knowledgeable on them haha
I know you've figured it out, but since your leak is post MAF, it generally means that under vacuum you will run leaner than desired because more air is entering than the MAF meters, but under boost it will run rich because you are actually losing compressed air through the leak. So, after you fix the leak, with the same tune, you'll have the opposite experience. Under vacuum, the car will run rich because it has less air than when you last tuned it, but under boost it will run leaner because it isn't losing air like before. All depends on the severity of the leak and exactly how it was tuned of course.
Your getting the same amount of power at a lower PSI # because your plumbing is air tight now. Your turbo charger is now working more efficiently to make the same power and that's a good thing.
It was running rich because the maf was reading air that the engine wasn't seeing so it wasn't able to correct your a/f mixture accordingly due to the leak.
I have got the same EJ204, considering doing it as well but afraid of reliability issues , could you share any problems you had with it down the road ? Not plannin to go anything crazy, right now its 160hp,118kw (stock) , just though of getting into ~220bhp , Its a DOHC AVCS as yours i think
Check your psi of your fuel pump and flow rate. You want it to be greater than your manifold pressure at your fuel regulator. It doesn’t seem to be the issue but hence your bog just a check. Your fuel injector size?? Stock is usually efficient for turbo setup but, figure in duty cycle of injectors and psi. N/a setup has a a/f of of at least 12.8 at wide open throttle to be safe. Turbo setup is like a 11.8 or 11.5 at wide open throttle. Good video. Check your timing. You don’t want stock timing on a turbo setup. Not sure what yours is but like a gm ls motor is like 18 of advance is high on a turbo setup but some run them. 29 advance on the same motor?? Your gonna eject a rod out.
I have 565cc injectors in it and I tuned it to run great with them. I think all I need to do is rescale the maf one more time now that I fixed the leak and it should be mint. I still have not changed the timing tune yet I have kind of been afraid of doing so but I will get to it soon. That will probably be in the next video on this car.
@@GoldGuyRides. Hey man. Ya. I’m not trying to be a smarty towards you. Lol. But ya. Your fuel injectors are what they call 56pounders. Is your injection system a direct injection?? Direct injection is the injectors squirt directly into the cylinders others are injected into the intake manifold then sucked in by vacuum. I bought 600cc from snake eaters last years. My stock injectors were 33lb’s. Fuel pressure regulator on mine is recommended at like 48lbs to the injectors. Constantly. With a fuel rate at least above 65gallons per hour. My new fuel pump will pump 100gallons per hour free flow at 45psi but it’s rated at 90psi. At 48psi at the fuel pressure regulator it’s rated at 75… so. I’m ok. Something to figure in. Be technical more is voltage to the injectors versus flow. Not all injectors flow the identical rate. Some require more or less voltage to be a close match to the others but to know that you gotta bench flow your injectors and adjust voltage or clean them. Anyway. Your fuel pressure should be greater than your intake manifold pressure or you’ll have fueling problems because you need more pressure at the injectors to push through the manifold pressure. Know what I mean. Same or not enough fuel pressure your fuel won’t pump out the injectors because the manifold is pushing on the fuel. Anyway. Be safe goldguy.
I don't know anything about turbos but I would guess that since there is no leak anymore, you probably would need go back and change some of the setting in the computer? Guessing that some things may be a bit different now that it's sealed. Also what kind of shoes are you wearing, like the zippers for easy on and off.
@@GoldGuyRides Make sure you update us on your retune, be interesting to see what needs to be changed. Someone else was talking about advancing the timing, that may help with the backfiring unless you have a burned valve or something. I've never heard of Iron Jias but the look solid, thx for the info, gotta get some.
At 5 psi it definitely takes a couple seconds or 3.. these can do about 9sec 0-60.. with 5 psi and tuned decently, with good tires and a clutch you can do about 6 sec which is a little over wrx territory
A factory boost for those subys is 8-9psi I would set there then test drive if no different then retune and you shud be away and doesn't sound like you bov is working
My bov definitely works but it doesn't open unless the boost pressure is at least 1 psi before closing the throttle. I think the spring in it is too stiff maybe.
Hey man! I just got a 1983 rx 50! Are you going to do anymore videos on it and if you are or aren't is there anyway I could get in contact if I have any questions? I bought it completely disassembled
unplug the battery and press on the break for 10 minutes, let go of the break and leave it for another 10 minutes then plug the battery back in, you'll then have the ecu reset so it can learn again from the changes you've made.
To solve the lean issue on my 06 outback sport I changed the injector size from the actual 565 to 425 then re scaled the maf for the 500th time, it worked... no clue why, I could put insane numbers in the maf scale manually but it'd never give me lower than 13s in boost but now it happily sticks to the low 11 afr targets I set. Been driving it at 8.5psi for almost a year now problem free with the stock fuel pump. 93oct TD04L from an 06 wrx Wrx blue 565cc No intercooler Ebay wrx cold air intake Ebay wrx turbo inlet pipe VVL pressure sensor deleted wrx MAP sensor Stock MAF sensor wrx ebay fuell exhaust Most of my tables are just pulled from a MY06 impreza 91 tune, my timing tables I left stock up to 1.2 load then over that I pulled about 20% timing from the wrx tune in every map for added safety. Cold starts perfect even down to -15°F so far.
Thanks for the info, there's some great stuff there. This makes me want to go to do some more tuning. I really think I can get it down to 11 afr with the 565's, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. I haven't been able to do any open loop maf scaling because it leans out really bad every time I go WOT. It sticks to 11psi if I ease into the boost. How did you do your open loop maf scaling?
@GoldGuyRides it wouldn't richen up no matter how high I set the MAF numbers in open loop. Setting the injector number lower was the only way I figured out how to get it down. I'm also only running 8.5psi. This stock ecu tuning is pretty weird, doesn't always seem to do what you'd expect, I'm used to megasquirt and tuner studio.
@GoldGuyRides sure, I'm definitely no expert, but I've been running this car as it was when I first messaged you. It's been well past the end of the speedometer many times beat on almost every day and it's still going strong. (I have recently begun tuning it for e85 so I'm figuring out more tables that need some extra fine tuning, but honestly I'm tempted to run a piggyback for fuel at this point because some changes to the stock ecu just don't seem to react the way you'd expect.) ((Cars at 255k miles and about 30k of those were turboed.))
@@RemKureko awesome, thanks! So my question is, when you set the injector flow scaling to 425, did it make your short term fuel trims really messed up? It made mine -30 stft while idling and cruising but it levels out while under boost. Changing the injector flow scaling to 425 definitely seemed to help but now it is almost too rich while under boost, my wideband shows 10 AFR while under boost which is certainly better than it was before making that change but it's too rich now. Another question, so you rescaled your maf sensor scaling table after changing the injector flow scaling to 425 right? Did it change your afrs after you did that? I use the rom raider maf scaling tool and it bases the change to maf scaling off of the short term fuel trim which is now -30 while idling and cruising and it will lead to a drastic change in the maf sensor scaling which I am worried will mess up my afrs because I had my maf scaling pretty close before and I don't really want to change it, but I also don't want to have -30 short term fuel trims or 10 AFRs under boost. Sometimes the car even stumbles bad with afrs at 10 or less right before it goes into boost, do you have that problem? Thanks in advance man, I really appreciate the tuning advice on our cars, there aren't many other people to ask about this stuff.
Yes my car does have an ej253 and yes I definitely plan on upgrading the eternals but I probably won't end up doing that until I have to pull the engine for something else like a blown head gasket or something lol
This was good TV idk why 20,000 people haven't watched this minimum it's got a better plot than Starwars and only half as many gay aliens 10/10 would subaru 5MT UEL TMIC AWD DCCD BE/BH JDM again
You're boosting too low for the leak to have made an issue in performance. Fixing the leak will cause the car to run a tad leaner since more air is being introduced.
Glad to see new content! I've supercharged SOHCs but never turbo'd a SOHC. Been considering swapping my 05TS but honestly I want to just turbo the motor as its already built. The tuning has had me at a wall. You knocked that down with your previous videos on tuning, I have a shit ton more research but you made things more understandable. The fact is, you inspired me to mess with the stock ecu. I've pulled my 02WRX Rom and modified the check engines but never anything else. Good stuff and mad respect!
if the motor is built and already turbo'd make sure your not high comp, that would suck
unless its built for boost
I'm interested to know more about how you supercharged the SOHC and any advice you might have. I've got my parts list down and should be able to get an EJ257 shortblock soon. The biggest issue I see right now is the ECU tune because there isn't a definition for my car.
@@user-lz3sv5sw9u
I welded up some brackets the hold the Eaton M62 (92 is just to big)
I used the original pulley and just 12v jumped the clutch on it to stay engaged.
Ended up with a 4 inch pulley( not %100 on the size) due to the stock size was only hitting 2 pounds at like 4.5k rpms. I also believed that the clutch was slipping. Couldn't figure that one out!
I new pulley set the boost at 5 pounds.
Had issues from the get go cause the throttle body was post charger. Created a pressure on the sensors that makes everything wonky. Fights to even idle. Made an adapter plate that mated the charger and throttle body so the body was before the charger. Fixed everything.
No wiring really. Stock ecu. Put larger injectors in it and ironically didnt run good. Which in gold mans older videos, he kinda explained why they failed for me. I always wanted to hit 10psi with it but never went over 5psi. With what I wrote and learned now is , it was a ticking time bomb really. Tuning was a must.
@@justinphenix5521 Sounds easy enough! I guess all I need to do then is have a plan for tuning my engine.
Nice video, love the Subaru content!
No worries about fixing past mistakes or admitting to them, I may have done some cringe or shady mods to my first car as well, almost 20 years later, im much more experienced and knowledgeable on them haha
Nice video! More drifting in the snow with that non turbo leak machine is one thing I want to see now.
Great work! I wish I was brave enough to do this on my 07 impreza
Bro could you let me know how you did it and what parts you used, cause I have a 2012 Impreza n/a and really wanted a bit of safe power
@@jeremiahfernandes1636 By "this" I mean adding a turbo to my car at all. I didn't follow the previous videos and have the same leak problem.
Love the videos, helped me a lot on my 2007 forester build. Thank you
Good on you for being honest with us retune
Bravo! This is next level wrenching. I'd drive it 6 months. The temperature is due to warm up by then.
I know you've figured it out, but since your leak is post MAF, it generally means that under vacuum you will run leaner than desired because more air is entering than the MAF meters, but under boost it will run rich because you are actually losing compressed air through the leak. So, after you fix the leak, with the same tune, you'll have the opposite experience. Under vacuum, the car will run rich because it has less air than when you last tuned it, but under boost it will run leaner because it isn't losing air like before. All depends on the severity of the leak and exactly how it was tuned of course.
nice man 1 step closer to turning up the boost! lookign fwd to it!
Your getting the same amount of power at a lower PSI # because your plumbing is air tight now. Your turbo charger is now working more efficiently to make the same power and that's a good thing.
It was running rich because the maf was reading air that the engine wasn't seeing so it wasn't able to correct your a/f mixture accordingly due to the leak.
I have got the same EJ204, considering doing it as well but afraid of reliability issues , could you share any problems you had with it down the road ?
Not plannin to go anything crazy, right now its 160hp,118kw (stock) , just though of getting into ~220bhp ,
Its a DOHC AVCS as yours i think
Check your psi of your fuel pump and flow rate. You want it to be greater than your manifold pressure at your fuel regulator. It doesn’t seem to be the issue but hence your bog just a check. Your fuel injector size?? Stock is usually efficient for turbo setup but, figure in duty cycle of injectors and psi. N/a setup has a a/f of of at least 12.8 at wide open throttle to be safe. Turbo setup is like a 11.8 or 11.5 at wide open throttle. Good video. Check your timing. You don’t want stock timing on a turbo setup. Not sure what yours is but like a gm ls motor is like 18 of advance is high on a turbo setup but some run them. 29 advance on the same motor?? Your gonna eject a rod out.
I have 565cc injectors in it and I tuned it to run great with them. I think all I need to do is rescale the maf one more time now that I fixed the leak and it should be mint. I still have not changed the timing tune yet I have kind of been afraid of doing so but I will get to it soon. That will probably be in the next video on this car.
@@GoldGuyRides. Hey man. Ya. I’m not trying to be a smarty towards you. Lol. But ya. Your fuel injectors are what they call 56pounders. Is your injection system a direct injection?? Direct injection is the injectors squirt directly into the cylinders others are injected into the intake manifold then sucked in by vacuum. I bought 600cc from snake eaters last years. My stock injectors were 33lb’s. Fuel pressure regulator on mine is recommended at like 48lbs to the injectors. Constantly. With a fuel rate at least above 65gallons per hour. My new fuel pump will pump 100gallons per hour free flow at 45psi but it’s rated at 90psi. At 48psi at the fuel pressure regulator it’s rated at 75… so. I’m ok. Something to figure in. Be technical more is voltage to the injectors versus flow. Not all injectors flow the identical rate. Some require more or less voltage to be a close match to the others but to know that you gotta bench flow your injectors and adjust voltage or clean them. Anyway. Your fuel pressure should be greater than your intake manifold pressure or you’ll have fueling problems because you need more pressure at the injectors to push through the manifold pressure. Know what I mean. Same or not enough fuel pressure your fuel won’t pump out the injectors because the manifold is pushing on the fuel. Anyway. Be safe goldguy.
I don't know anything about turbos but I would guess that since there is no leak anymore, you probably would need go back and change some of the setting in the computer? Guessing that some things may be a bit different now that it's sealed. Also what kind of shoes are you wearing, like the zippers for easy on and off.
They are called iron Jias motorcycle shoes I love them. You can find them on Amazon. Yeah I am going to have to retune, you're right.
@@GoldGuyRides Make sure you update us on your retune, be interesting to see what needs to be changed. Someone else was talking about advancing the timing, that may help with the backfiring unless you have a burned valve or something. I've never heard of Iron Jias but the look solid, thx for the info, gotta get some.
Have an updated link for turbo?
You might want to look into getting a MAP(mass air pressure) sensor from a turbo model, that's what I did.
I'm currently turbocharging my 99 Forester SOHC at a safe 4 psi, the only problem is i can't tune my ecu 💀 Looks like I might need an FMU
can you make a 0-60 run so we can see how much is the difference between stock vs yours
I was thinking the same
At 5 psi it definitely takes a couple seconds or 3.. these can do about 9sec 0-60.. with 5 psi and tuned decently, with good tires and a clutch you can do about 6 sec which is a little over wrx territory
A factory boost for those subys is 8-9psi I would set there then test drive if no different then retune and you shud be away and doesn't sound like you bov is working
My bov definitely works but it doesn't open unless the boost pressure is at least 1 psi before closing the throttle. I think the spring in it is too stiff maybe.
Hey man! I just got a 1983 rx 50! Are you going to do anymore videos on it and if you are or aren't is there anyway I could get in contact if I have any questions? I bought it completely disassembled
idk if u thought about it but you might need a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator
You need to make more video on th subaru and you should be able to run 15 psi safely
Is turbo charging any n/a Subaru reliable ?
unplug the battery and press on the break for 10 minutes, let go of the break and leave it for another 10 minutes then plug the battery back in, you'll then have the ecu reset so it can learn again from the changes you've made.
Nothing like spannering in the snow. 🥶
To solve the lean issue on my 06 outback sport I changed the injector size from the actual 565 to 425 then re scaled the maf for the 500th time, it worked... no clue why, I could put insane numbers in the maf scale manually but it'd never give me lower than 13s in boost but now it happily sticks to the low 11 afr targets I set.
Been driving it at 8.5psi for almost a year now problem free with the stock fuel pump.
93oct
TD04L from an 06 wrx
Wrx blue 565cc
No intercooler
Ebay wrx cold air intake
Ebay wrx turbo inlet pipe
VVL pressure sensor deleted
wrx MAP sensor
Stock MAF sensor
wrx ebay fuell exhaust
Most of my tables are just pulled from a MY06 impreza 91 tune, my timing tables I left stock up to 1.2 load then over that I pulled about 20% timing from the wrx tune in every map for added safety.
Cold starts perfect even down to -15°F so far.
Thanks for the info, there's some great stuff there. This makes me want to go to do some more tuning. I really think I can get it down to 11 afr with the 565's, I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. I haven't been able to do any open loop maf scaling because it leans out really bad every time I go WOT. It sticks to 11psi if I ease into the boost. How did you do your open loop maf scaling?
@GoldGuyRides it wouldn't richen up no matter how high I set the MAF numbers in open loop.
Setting the injector number lower was the only way I figured out how to get it down.
I'm also only running 8.5psi. This stock ecu tuning is pretty weird, doesn't always seem to do what you'd expect, I'm used to megasquirt and tuner studio.
YOO! I have some questions about tuning our cars, could I email you or something please?
@GoldGuyRides sure, I'm definitely no expert, but I've been running this car as it was when I first messaged you. It's been well past the end of the speedometer many times beat on almost every day and it's still going strong. (I have recently begun tuning it for e85 so I'm figuring out more tables that need some extra fine tuning, but honestly I'm tempted to run a piggyback for fuel at this point because some changes to the stock ecu just don't seem to react the way you'd expect.)
((Cars at 255k miles and about 30k of those were turboed.))
@@RemKureko awesome, thanks! So my question is, when you set the injector flow scaling to 425, did it make your short term fuel trims really messed up? It made mine -30 stft while idling and cruising but it levels out while under boost. Changing the injector flow scaling to 425 definitely seemed to help but now it is almost too rich while under boost, my wideband shows 10 AFR while under boost which is certainly better than it was before making that change but it's too rich now. Another question, so you rescaled your maf sensor scaling table after changing the injector flow scaling to 425 right? Did it change your afrs after you did that? I use the rom raider maf scaling tool and it bases the change to maf scaling off of the short term fuel trim which is now -30 while idling and cruising and it will lead to a drastic change in the maf sensor scaling which I am worried will mess up my afrs because I had my maf scaling pretty close before and I don't really want to change it, but I also don't want to have -30 short term fuel trims or 10 AFRs under boost. Sometimes the car even stumbles bad with afrs at 10 or less right before it goes into boost, do you have that problem? Thanks in advance man, I really appreciate the tuning advice on our cars, there aren't many other people to ask about this stuff.
Hey man hope we get an update on this. :D
Yes
@@GoldGuyRides Sweet, cannot wait. cheers bro.👍🙏
Did your car come with an EJ253? Any plans to upgrade the internals?
Yes my car does have an ej253 and yes I definitely plan on upgrading the eternals but I probably won't end up doing that until I have to pull the engine for something else like a blown head gasket or something lol
Special!
How much hp does it have?
I don't know, it hasn't been on the Dyno yet. Whenever I get it dyno'd I'll make a video about it.
God loves you
Or you possibly cud have fuel regulater problems
God bless everyone have a great day be safe
Just came here to say that i expect an update
This was good TV idk why 20,000 people haven't watched this minimum it's got a better plot than Starwars and only half as many gay aliens 10/10 would subaru 5MT UEL TMIC AWD DCCD BE/BH JDM again
You're boosting too low for the leak to have made an issue in performance. Fixing the leak will cause the car to run a tad leaner since more air is being introduced.
Wow I'm early