On older carburettor engines , the general rule is no more that 32°-34° advance. In my world of classic/historic racing it depends on the fuel, but that seems to work ok.
Indeed, as they did not invented the bob weight mechanism yet... You also see this on old motorbikes, We used to joke with that. We did set it a lot of advance, had a newbe to kickstart the bike....and he got a kind kickback.... as way of baptising the newbe. If you did this today,,, you would be fired ... unless you are the boss
I believe the idle rpm is also important when you set the static advance. It should not be more than 1000rpm for non tuned engines I belive. Depending of distibutor wear the rotation of the distributor should be a few mm, than wait to hear the engine increase in rpm or not. I'm still waiting the video regarding the distributor curve modification after DCOE carbs swap. Hope you will do it someday. Thanks for sharing your experience to us!
That is no issue , it may consume a bit more gasoline when running on lean mixtures as the peak will come late... but then again the lean mixture is already saving gas. Many race cars or fast road cars have modified distributors where the vacuum advance is removed. Why ? well because it is often more hassle then anything else. and those folks typical never drive with the foot of the pedal... its always on or fully wide openen. So , no there is no issue for your car..
@@D3Sshooter thank you for your answer, I will leave “well enough” alone then. Also, thank you for your videos! I have been subscribed for a while now and enjoy them…!
Very nice treatment of this subject, just the right amount of info graphic too. Thanks.
Thankyou for your time on this subject.
My pleasure
Nice lesson.
Thank you
On older carburettor engines , the general rule is no more that 32°-34° advance. In my world of classic/historic racing it depends on the fuel, but that seems to work ok.
Indeed, that is the kind of base advance
In the Ford Model T (1908) there is a lever on the steering column to adjust the spark Advance.
Indeed, as they did not invented the bob weight mechanism yet... You also see this on old motorbikes, We used to joke with that. We did set it a lot of advance, had a newbe to kickstart the bike....and he got a kind kickback.... as way of baptising the newbe. If you did this today,,, you would be fired ... unless you are the boss
Bedankt Steve voor deze duidelijke uitleg! Heel leerrijk en simpel toegelicht 👍
Graag gedaan
I believe the idle rpm is also important when you set the static advance. It should not be more than 1000rpm for non tuned engines I belive. Depending of distibutor wear the rotation of the distributor should be a few mm, than wait to hear the engine increase in rpm or not. I'm still waiting the video regarding the distributor curve modification after DCOE carbs swap. Hope you will do it someday. Thanks for sharing your experience to us!
Mega video.
Thanks mate..
👍👍 Cool
Thanks
My ‘74 TR6 only has mechanical advance; should it both mechanical and vacuum advance?
That is no issue , it may consume a bit more gasoline when running on lean mixtures as the peak will come late... but then again the lean mixture is already saving gas. Many race cars or fast road cars have modified distributors where the vacuum advance is removed. Why ? well because it is often more hassle then anything else. and those folks typical never drive with the foot of the pedal... its always on or fully wide openen. So , no there is no issue for your car..
@@D3Sshooter thank you for your answer, I will leave “well enough” alone then. Also, thank you for your videos! I have been subscribed for a while now and enjoy them…!
@@charlesbaker4508 My pleasure Charles and enjoy your TR6 ( I had a few in the past, great cars)