hi, this may be a bit late as i am only discovering your excellent channel now but a partial add on solution is to vent the doors into the motor room. Add the fan in the vented doors to draw hot air out and this should keep ambient running temperatures as well as throw some heat into the cabin on colder at sea cruising cheers and all the best
A comment about testing your propulsion motor. It takes a certain amount of power to move a sailboat at any given speed. Your motor provides that power through your propeller. However, when you tie your boat to the dock you are no longer looking at the power required to move the sailboat. Instead you are looking at the power required to move the dock (i.e. North America), which is essentially infinite. So when you run the motor to drive the propeller the power the motor runs at is the maximum power the motor and propeller can deliver at whatever the motor rpms is. That amount of power is much greater than the amount required to move the boat. So your test is actually looking at a much higher load on the motor than you would see if you ran the motor at the same rpms with the boat able to move (i.e., not tied to the dock). So basically your test tells you nothing about the motor operating temperature with the boat underway. Also as noted below, if you don't have a reduction gear between the motor and the prop, the maximum motor/prop rpms your are likely to need is about 1,500 to achieve hull speed. The exact maximum prop rpms depends on the displacement of your boat, the waterline length, the wetted surface area, etc and the details of your prop (# of blades, blade area, blade pitch, blade type, etc.). For example, my 36' sailboat displaces 15,000 lbs, has a 27.5' waterline length, and a relatively large wetted surface (full keel). My prop is a 20" diameter, 13.5" pitch, 3 blade standard prop with a 35% disk area ratio. That combination of boat and prop requires about 750 prop rpms to push the boat at 5.5 knots and uses about 10 hp (7.5 kilowatts). If I tied the boat to the dock and ran the engine at the same speed the engine power would increase to the maximum the engine could produce at that rpm setting, which is more than 3 times the power required to move the boat. Just a heads up.
Funny! We just bought some bird netting at the second-hand marine store, LONGSHIP, in Poulsbo, Wash. We wanted back. Also, you gave us a better idea for cutting ours. So, Thank you. We owe you a round of drinks!
Guys just an observation; You may want to think about extracting the heat rather than cooling the engine bay. IE conventional engine bay extractor that has a cool air inlet and a hot air extract. Internal combustion engines are a lot less efficient creating loads more waste heat. While much of this is transmitted to the cooling water circuits and overboard a great deal of the engine bay heat in modern boats is extracted via ducted fans . You could even think about a small intercooler on the air inlet cooling the air before extraction. This would be pretty simple to do with a small low wattage pump and a through hull? Just a few thoughts. Sail Safe Ant & Cid xx
Thanks for sharing the info on motor temp. I have the same motor and kit as you I think, and I was worried that my temperature was running between 150 and 200F. Now that I know that's okay it takes a load off my mind!
Awesome job guys. An idea would be to build a tube type structure to go around the motor that the fans set at each end pushing and pulling air thru. Like a wind tunnel maximizing air flow directly around the motor and not just blowing at it. Again just a thought. I know you two will figure it out. Peace guys.
Good to see another electric conversion. I'm running 48V 15kw hybrid and it's water cooled with a Johnson circulation pump. I've been told to never run the engine on the dock like your test. The loads about double when the boats not moving and the thrust bearing is stressed. From stationary I can select say 900RPM and the amp draw starts at 100amps and will drop to 60 when the boat reaches about 4knts. I am sure you'll get it sussed and more boaties will convert. Cheers.
Nice detail! I like detail. I agree with Sea Travel, ventilate the motor compartment. That heat has to go somewhere since it is not water cooled like a diesel.
I imagine you're already aware that the operating temperature for electric motors is 60 degrees F above surounding ambient temperature. So if it's a hundred degrees in the engine compartment the motor will be fine at 160 degrees F which can easily burn your hand. You can wrap soft copper tubing around the motor and pump water through it also.
Good video. I originally subscribed to your channel because you have the identical setup I am planning on putting in my Catalina 30. I am hoping to see more videos with information on your propulsion setup including some technical info like power draw at different speeds, solar setup, batteries, gear ratios, prop size, etc. Keep up the great work.
Tooth Fairy unfortunatially life is hectic and honestly it's probably going to be a couple years at least until I am up and running. I might just document it but making videos isn't exactly my strongest skill set.
Heating Problem. I would cut two holes and have a fan in each hole for push pull airflow, your cabin would then become a little warm. My computer also warms up my room, I can open the window if it is too hot
Great video! If the motor is operating in tolerances and you have heat buildup in compartment, you can always create the fans for exhaust and drawn air from cabin, keeps air flowing in both
You have every right to worry about motor overheating, maybe not needed but every right. If you still want to cool it down use copper tubing around the motor with a water pump. this would be alot more efficient than fans.
Great video, While sourcing the motors and controllers for my build. I was also concerned about heat. Found out the controllers are more prone to overheating than the motors. So I mounted mine on heat sinks with a 6" 48 volt computer type fan. But also provided fresh air plumbed to the controllers and the discharge exits the boat. The same can be done for the motors , even if not needed the motors will be happier as cool as you can keep them. I have seen shrouds that fit around the motor and have connections for a input and a discharge so the motor is always getting fresh air. Just my 2 cents worth. Currently building a 40 ft. cat with all electric drive and solar powered. 2X 5 kw motors and 7000 watt solar and 1000 amp 48 volt battery bank. Just keep plugging away. What type of Sevcon controller are you using? I have a couple of spares got a real good deal on them. Cheers Ken
Voyage of The Electric Iguana do you have a site to follow your progress? I would LOVE to have an electric catamaran one day, I think they are the perfect platform for electric propulsion.
Thanks for all the info Ken! Love the setup and look forward to seeing your progress. We've got a Gen4. You don't know where I can get the Sevcon Clearview Display? everywhere we looked is sold out, unless we want to pay double
Those fan motors will generally last five times what the engines will in a car. So buying another one is probably not really necessary. Also you could pound out some copper strips around the motor to make a heat sink if you really wanted to do so. It might mean you don't need a fan because you will passively dissipate enough heat, but you might need some of the white cheap heatsink compound. ..Also you might consider zip tying the netting to the tow rail, so when you are sailing the dog won't slide off the deck and under the netting. Of course you probably just didn't finish the netting up and just wanted to show it on video.
If I'm understanding you right your blowing air on the motor then maybe a secondary fan blowing through an opening in the hull to extract the hot air may help
Love your videos! I just bought a Alberg 35 as well. Have you posted what your projected range, draw, weight , etc, on your electric set up? Im just toying with the idea of electric with a generator backup to extend range. In fact your videos gave me the idea..thanks I think..lol. My goal is long range extended bluewater cruising.
Temperature determines an electric motor lifetime, so you're wise to be cautious. An electric motor also produces more heat when it's operating outside of it's peak efficiency range. Looking at the 68V dyno chart on Motenergy's website the motor is 85% peak efficiency even though they say 92% elsewhere, so best case is you're wasting 15% energy as heat. The ME1115 is rated for 96V*125A phase current=12kW continuous at max RPM of 5000, that's 52 kV (RPM per volt). It looks like you're running at around 48V, at 48V and 125A phase current you're limited to 6 kW continuous. At 48V and 6kW a 15% loss is 0.9 kW of heat you need to dissipate with cooling. That's about the same as a portable electric heater on low.
Any reason you guys decided to go with a brushless DC motor instead of an AC motor, seems like AC could offer more power with less heat and smaller wires. If you had to do it over again would you change it up? I'm curious as I'm about to try and attempt the same thing.
I wasn't aware that you guys had an electrical motor but that is very interresting. I came across one channel and this guy seams to be pretty good with lithium batteries (jehugarcia, check him out). I dont really know how good he is cos and I dont know much about electricity but this might interrest You! Great vid +1
Hi , I'm really surprised there is not a fan built into the motor , usually with grills top and bottom there is a fan inside mounted to the armature to draw air thru it. In you application where it could get flooded I might have thought a total enclosed motor designed not to have air flow would be better. Sometimes called 'explosion proof motors' for use in places with high flammable fluids are around . More cost of course but could run underwater if the wiring doesn't short. Just read a smart ass question....'how can you tell the difference between a motor boat and a sail boat?' The sailboat motors 90% of the time...... thanks for sharing video. Oh buy the way , you would think,..... electric motors used in boats would be very rust and corrosion resistant, right , WRONG,! I have a boat with 2 electric (bow) thrusters made in Sweden by Sleipner Motor AS. Sold as Side-power. ' the world leaders' Ha! The boat was not stored well out of the water when I bought it and at least one motor got wet, the other just condensation in winter........ both motor were corroded internally beyond repair , the brush holders and springs were plain steel , lightly plated , maybe and rusted up solid and the iron armature on the outer magnets........they did turn but both had to be replaced at about $1000 each ......! Thanks Side power , so a word of warning be sure to spray electrical marine grade water repellent or do what ever it takes to keep an eye on the corrosion .( RANT OVER,) Cheers Warren
Look at the motor enclosure type on the motor tag. If that is a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor, blowing air on it will do nothing it is entirely based on incoming ambient temperature coming in. Ie your engine/motor bay. Adding a fan does not constitute cooling, only circulating of air. And does not allow for stratification of heat. If anything the additional fan motor is likely only adding more heat to the compartment. If you are worried about heat, you should be picking up your amp clamp, looking at amp draw. As you get closer to FLA (full load amps) of the motor, is where those amps plus SF will be the threshold of the insulating capacity between the windings. Unofficially consider the amps, the heat input to the motor. Minus your 75-92% of efficiency actually going to the shaft. Equate your plowing into a dock that of motoring up stream, without any momentum, from a dead stop. The prop is trying to pull water vs have the pressure of flow coming into it. Not quite like having a locked rotor or shaft.. but you are also putting excessive load on your components. (Could be why your controller crapped out). What are the specs on the motor. Ac volts/phase or dc volts? Other than that, temperature on the motor is like putting your hand on an interior wall of your house to find out how cold it is outside. Trying the right things, but methods and metrics are a bit off. Not trying to crap on you, just looking at your scenario from an open mindset. Tks!
Have you thought of the amps you are using adding to the problem , these amps your trying to make to run the hole show , on the other hand having to use them , in this case not to turn the shaft , put a 4 inch pipe down from the cockpit locker with a inline solar fan , to force air in and another one on the other side in revirse pulling air out ,
I think you have a problem with this motor. 170 degrees Celsius is serious. Тo cool it need big inflows and outflows of air. Where is such on the boat possible? Can try a fan of a smaller size, but with a large rpm. And concentrate efforts to remove hot air overboard through the pipe. If the fan and motor are going to blow inside this pipe, there will be a chance. It is necessary to count everything well.
Not sure what your doing to a motor that has a sf torque and amps.your trying to square peg a round hole. Learn more about what creates the heat and you'll realize how hard the motor runs also determines heat. if its (continues run) these are important factors. Fans on a motor shaft that turns with the rotation of the motor will assist in its torque. But the calculation needs to be done to determine pitch of the Blade and Direction. Much more than just sticking a fan behind it. Size of ducting and temp variance of intake and exhaust need to be factored
So, let`s get down to some numbers. 35-45 feet sailboats from the mid 1970-s on are often equipped with the 4-cylynder yanmar 4jh2e, coupled with a KBW20 marine gear. THE yanmar max continuous rpm is 3.400, the forward gear ratio of the kbw20 is 2,17-1, meaning that the propshaft max rpm is 3400/2,17= 1566. The maximum torque on the propshaft is over 150 ft lb. All in all, you need to provide such rated output with your elektric motor to match the speed and torque onn the propshaft the original setup provided. If you spin the propshaft at 1500+higher, but without torque will result that your propshaft rpm will dramatically decrease - dramatically meaning that the torque increase in the motor will not compansate the rpm decrease in headwind and rough see conditions.If you spin the prop too fast, it will not give you much power are props are also designed together with the engines, so too high rpm creates no resistance in the water. I am not meant to be partonizing you, just hapenned to be in the middle of the electric conversion of our 38 feet puma. you need minimum 12-15kw power - to get the same rated figures than the original diesel.
You're correct, the orininal intent for the motor was in and out of port/anchorage but we're probably going to go with a 15kw. Thanks for the comment and watching. How's your conversion going?
I sourced my electric watercooled motor out of a european hybrid, the watercooled controller from another hybrid with a custom made circuit board so works independently:)
![Testing our electric motor for the first time!- Sailing Uma [Step 21]](/img/n.gif)
Great idea .Looks really good .Thanks for video! 💡
hi, this may be a bit late as i am only discovering your excellent channel now but a partial add on solution is to vent the doors into the motor room. Add the fan in the vented doors to draw hot air out and this should keep ambient running temperatures as well as throw some heat into the cabin on colder at sea cruising
cheers and all the best
A comment about testing your propulsion motor. It takes a certain amount of power to move a sailboat at any given speed. Your motor provides that power through your propeller. However, when you tie your boat to the dock you are no longer looking at the power required to move the sailboat. Instead you are looking at the power required to move the dock (i.e. North America), which is essentially infinite. So when you run the motor to drive the propeller the power the motor runs at is the maximum power the motor and propeller can deliver at whatever the motor rpms is. That amount of power is much greater than the amount required to move the boat. So your test is actually looking at a much higher load on the motor than you would see if you ran the motor at the same rpms with the boat able to move (i.e., not tied to the dock). So basically your test tells you nothing about the motor operating temperature with the boat underway. Also as noted below, if you don't have a reduction gear between the motor and the prop, the maximum motor/prop rpms your are likely to need is about 1,500 to achieve hull speed. The exact maximum prop rpms depends on the displacement of your boat, the waterline length, the wetted surface area, etc and the details of your prop (# of blades, blade area, blade pitch, blade type, etc.). For example, my 36' sailboat displaces 15,000 lbs, has a 27.5' waterline length, and a relatively large wetted surface (full keel). My prop is a 20" diameter, 13.5" pitch, 3 blade standard prop with a 35% disk area ratio. That combination of boat and prop requires about 750 prop rpms to push the boat at 5.5 knots and uses about 10 hp (7.5 kilowatts). If I tied the boat to the dock and ran the engine at the same speed the engine power would increase to the maximum the engine could produce at that rpm setting, which is more than 3 times the power required to move the boat. Just a heads up.
Funny! We just bought some bird netting at the second-hand marine store, LONGSHIP, in Poulsbo, Wash. We wanted back. Also, you gave us a better idea for cutting ours. So, Thank you. We owe you a round of drinks!
youre so welcome!
Guys just an observation; You may want to think about extracting the heat rather than cooling the engine bay. IE conventional engine bay extractor that has a cool air inlet and a hot air extract. Internal combustion engines are a lot less efficient creating loads more waste heat. While much of this is transmitted to the cooling water circuits and overboard a great deal of the engine bay heat in modern boats is extracted via ducted fans . You could even think about a small intercooler on the air inlet cooling the air before extraction. This would be pretty simple to do with a small low wattage pump and a through hull? Just a few thoughts. Sail Safe Ant & Cid xx
You guys are awesome. I have an Ericson29 and I'm seriously thinking about going electric.
Thanks for sharing the info on motor temp. I have the same motor and kit as you I think, and I was worried that my temperature was running between 150 and 200F. Now that I know that's okay it takes a load off my mind!
Awesome job guys. An idea would be to build a tube type structure to go around the motor that the fans set at each end pushing and pulling air thru. Like a wind tunnel maximizing air flow directly around the motor and not just blowing at it. Again just a thought. I know you two will figure it out. Peace guys.
Good to see another electric conversion. I'm running 48V 15kw hybrid and it's water cooled with a Johnson circulation pump.
I've been told to never run the engine on the dock like your test. The loads about double when the boats not moving and the thrust bearing is stressed. From stationary I can select say 900RPM and the amp draw starts at 100amps and will drop to 60 when the boat reaches about 4knts.
I am sure you'll get it sussed and more boaties will convert.
Cheers.
nice to meet another electric. definitely learning a lot as we go and we do think we will see way more conversions.
Nice detail! I like detail. I agree with Sea Travel, ventilate the motor compartment. That heat has to go somewhere since it is not water cooled like a diesel.
Like ur other subscriber suggested, you will need to exhaust the heat out. Also, will keep heat from getting in the cabin area. Good luck
I imagine you're already aware that the operating temperature for electric motors is 60 degrees F above surounding ambient temperature. So if it's a hundred degrees in the engine compartment the motor will be fine at 160 degrees F which can easily burn your hand. You can wrap soft copper tubing around the motor and pump water through it also.
Good video. I originally subscribed to your channel because you have the identical setup I am planning on putting in my Catalina 30. I am hoping to see more videos with information on your propulsion setup including some technical info like power draw at different speeds, solar setup, batteries, gear ratios, prop size, etc. Keep up the great work.
Keith Palle, hope you do a TH-cam vid too bro... very interesting.
Tooth Fairy unfortunatially life is hectic and honestly it's probably going to be a couple years at least until I am up and running. I might just document it but making videos isn't exactly my strongest skill set.
Heating Problem. I would cut two holes and have a fan in each hole for push pull airflow, your cabin would then become a little warm. My computer also warms up my room, I can open the window if it is too hot
Great video! If the motor is operating in tolerances and you have heat buildup in compartment, you can always create the fans for exhaust and drawn air from cabin, keeps air flowing in both
Thanks for the idea!
You have every right to worry about motor overheating, maybe not needed but every right. If you still want to cool it down use copper tubing around the motor with a water pump. this would be alot more efficient than fans.
Thanks James! We haven’t had any heating issues so far...just a lack of knowledge on my part in the beginning. Haven’t even had to use the fans. 🙌
Thanks James! We haven’t had any heating issues so far...just a lack of knowledge on my part in the beginning. Haven’t even had to use the fans. 🙌
Think of how much air the a/c blows in the car. Those fans can be good for all cooling or blowing applications.
get some finned alum heat sinks hold them to the motor with ss hose clamps then put fan on it will stay cooled
Great video, While sourcing the motors and controllers for my build. I was also concerned about heat. Found out the controllers are more prone to overheating than the motors. So I mounted mine on heat sinks with a 6" 48 volt computer type fan. But also provided fresh air plumbed to the controllers and the discharge exits the boat.
The same can be done for the motors , even if not needed the motors will be happier as cool as you can keep them. I have seen shrouds that fit around the motor and have connections for a input and a discharge so the motor is always getting fresh air.
Just my 2 cents worth. Currently building a 40 ft. cat with all electric drive and solar powered.
2X 5 kw motors and 7000 watt solar and 1000 amp 48 volt battery bank.
Just keep plugging away. What type of Sevcon controller are you using? I have a couple of spares got a real good deal on them.
Cheers Ken
Voyage of The Electric Iguana do you have a site to follow your progress? I would LOVE to have an electric catamaran one day, I think they are the perfect platform for electric propulsion.
Thanks for all the info Ken! Love the setup and look forward to seeing your progress. We've got a Gen4. You don't know where I can get the Sevcon Clearview Display? everywhere we looked is sold out, unless we want to pay double
I just bought my second clear view from Thunderstruck.. I have a Gen4 275 amp. Contact me on my e-mail from youtube channel. Cheers Ken
Those fan motors will generally last five times what the engines will in a car. So buying another one is probably not really necessary. Also you could pound out some copper strips around the motor to make a heat sink if you really wanted to do so.
It might mean you don't need a fan because you will passively dissipate enough heat, but you might need some of the white cheap heatsink compound. ..Also you might consider zip tying the netting to the tow rail, so when you are sailing the dog won't slide off the deck and under the netting. Of course you probably just didn't finish the netting up and just wanted to show it on video.
Hey Allyn, thanks for the info. Yeah, netting wasn't all the way done, but we appreciate your comments
If I'm understanding you right your blowing air on the motor then maybe a secondary fan blowing through an opening in the hull to extract the hot air may help
you got it!
Love your videos! I just bought a Alberg 35 as well. Have you posted what your projected range, draw, weight , etc, on your electric set up? Im just toying with the idea of electric with a generator backup to extend range. In fact your videos gave me the idea..thanks I think..lol. My goal is long range extended bluewater cruising.
no not yet. we are still testing.. but shoot us an email and we are happy to chat.
Temperature determines an electric motor lifetime, so you're wise to be cautious. An electric motor also produces more heat when it's operating outside of it's peak efficiency range. Looking at the 68V dyno chart on Motenergy's website the motor is 85% peak efficiency even though they say 92% elsewhere, so best case is you're wasting 15% energy as heat.
The ME1115 is rated for 96V*125A phase current=12kW continuous at max RPM of 5000, that's 52 kV (RPM per volt). It looks like you're running at around 48V, at 48V and 125A phase current you're limited to 6 kW continuous. At 48V and 6kW a 15% loss is 0.9 kW of heat you need to dissipate with cooling. That's about the same as a portable electric heater on low.
awesome video guys
If yall ever get into a tight spot with food, just re purpose the net as a trawl behind the boat. You should get some seafood.
you always have the best comments pate!
Shopping at the junkyard!💝💝
Temperature news!💝💝
Appreciate you Marie!
Any reason you guys decided to go with a brushless DC motor instead of an AC motor, seems like AC could offer more power with less heat and smaller wires. If you had to do it over again would you change it up? I'm curious as I'm about to try and attempt the same thing.
I wasn't aware that you guys had an electrical motor but that is very interresting. I came across one channel and this guy seams to be pretty good with lithium batteries (jehugarcia, check him out). I dont really know how good he is cos and I dont know much about electricity but this might interrest You! Great vid +1
Have you thought about a water cooling jacket on the motor similar to what they do on RC Boats?
Hi , I'm really surprised there is not a fan built into the motor , usually with grills top and bottom there is a fan inside mounted to the armature to draw air thru it. In you application where it could get flooded I might have thought a total enclosed motor designed not to have air flow would be better. Sometimes called 'explosion proof motors' for use in places with high flammable fluids are around . More cost of course but could run underwater if the wiring doesn't short.
Just read a smart ass question....'how can you tell the difference between a motor boat and a sail boat?' The sailboat motors 90% of the time...... thanks for sharing video.
Oh buy the way , you would think,..... electric motors used in boats would be very rust and corrosion resistant, right , WRONG,! I have a boat with 2 electric (bow) thrusters made in Sweden by Sleipner Motor AS. Sold as Side-power. ' the world leaders' Ha! The boat was not stored well out of the water when I bought it and at least one motor got wet, the other just condensation in winter........ both motor were corroded internally beyond repair , the brush holders and springs were plain steel , lightly plated , maybe and rusted up solid and the iron armature on the outer magnets........they did turn but both had to be replaced at about $1000 each ......! Thanks Side power , so a word of warning be sure to spray electrical marine grade water repellent or do what ever it takes to keep an eye on the corrosion .( RANT OVER,)
Cheers Warren
Look at the motor enclosure type on the motor tag. If that is a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor, blowing air on it will do nothing it is entirely based on incoming ambient temperature coming in. Ie your engine/motor bay.
Adding a fan does not constitute cooling, only circulating of air. And does not allow for stratification of heat.
If anything the additional fan motor is likely only adding more heat to the compartment.
If you are worried about heat, you should be picking up your amp clamp, looking at amp draw. As you get closer to FLA (full load amps) of the motor, is where those amps plus SF will be the threshold of the insulating capacity between the windings. Unofficially consider the amps, the heat input to the motor. Minus your 75-92% of efficiency actually going to the shaft.
Equate your plowing into a dock that of motoring up stream, without any momentum, from a dead stop. The prop is trying to pull water vs have the pressure of flow coming into it. Not quite like having a locked rotor or shaft.. but you are also putting excessive load on your components. (Could be why your controller crapped out). What are the specs on the motor. Ac volts/phase or dc volts?
Other than that, temperature on the motor is like putting your hand on an interior wall of your house to find out how cold it is outside.
Trying the right things, but methods and metrics are a bit off.
Not trying to crap on you, just looking at your scenario from an open mindset. Tks!
liquid cool it yourself with copper gas tubing and a tiny aqarium waterpump?
I am guessing this is a brushed DC motor?
quick temp conversion Cto F 2c+30.
Thanks Wayne!
Do you guys need a battery for that clock? 😎
Haha! That thing hasn’t worked since day one 🤣
Just funnin’ with ya. That’s how closely I watch your videos. Great channel. Cheers!
@@leeschill we always appreciate someone who pays attention to details :)
An after their sails were up...they became dancing fools!!! PEACE OUT! Ü
With the netting, why didn't you try sailrite.....
Have you thought of the amps you are using adding to the problem , these amps your trying to make to run the hole show , on the other hand having to use them , in this case not to turn the shaft , put a 4 inch pipe down from the cockpit locker with a inline solar fan , to force air in and another one on the other side in revirse pulling air out ,
What about getting an alternator to charge the batteries?
We are looking into a small generator for longer trips. ☀️⛵️
standard alternators will burn out because of amp draw you need special Boldor alternator 5 times the price
The motor has to be raw water cooled. Due to the enclosure you will not be able to control the temp.
I think you have a problem with this motor. 170 degrees Celsius is serious. Тo cool it need big inflows and outflows of air. Where is such on the boat possible? Can try a fan of a smaller size, but with a large rpm. And concentrate efforts to remove hot air overboard through the pipe. If the fan and motor are going to blow inside this pipe, there will be a chance. It is necessary to count everything well.
He is getting 60 Celsius. Less than 1/2.
what is the size and brand of your Motor ?
What happen to the other really old dog?
you need to check out Golden motor Canada dc Motors water cooled over 90% efficiency
If you want the motor room cool ok great but I bet 2cents you could completely do away with the fans!!
What about a controller??????
So whats the current draw?
Hey Carl, on average around 75
Golden Motor Alibaba .com 3 to 20 KW BLDC MOTORS air or water Cooled
water cooled motor Golden motor Canada 5, 10 or 20 kw
thumbs up
make sure to cool your battery's too mate
Thanks!
Not sure what your doing to a motor that has a sf torque and amps.your trying to square peg a round hole. Learn more about what creates the heat and you'll realize how hard the motor runs also determines heat. if its (continues run) these are important factors. Fans on a motor shaft that turns with the rotation of the motor will assist in its torque. But the calculation needs to be done to determine pitch of the Blade and Direction. Much more than just sticking a fan behind it. Size of ducting and temp variance of intake and exhaust need to be factored
So, let`s get down to some numbers. 35-45 feet sailboats from the mid 1970-s on are often equipped with the 4-cylynder yanmar 4jh2e, coupled with a KBW20 marine gear. THE yanmar max continuous rpm is 3.400, the forward gear ratio of the kbw20 is 2,17-1, meaning that the propshaft max rpm is 3400/2,17= 1566. The maximum torque on the propshaft is over 150 ft lb. All in all, you need to provide such rated output with your elektric motor to match the speed and torque onn the propshaft the original setup provided. If you spin the propshaft at 1500+higher, but without torque will result that your propshaft rpm will dramatically decrease - dramatically meaning that the torque increase in the motor will not compansate the rpm decrease in headwind and rough see conditions.If you spin the prop too fast, it will not give you much power are props are also designed together with the engines, so too high rpm creates no resistance in the water. I am not meant to be partonizing you, just hapenned to be in the middle of the electric conversion of our 38 feet puma. you need minimum 12-15kw power - to get the same rated figures than the original diesel.
You're correct, the orininal intent for the motor was in and out of port/anchorage but we're probably going to go with a 15kw. Thanks for the comment and watching. How's your conversion going?
I sourced my electric watercooled motor out of a european hybrid, the watercooled controller from another hybrid with a custom made circuit board so works independently:)
you could hook up the A/C to cool your electric Motor Check Out Golden motor Water cooled motors 3 to 20 KW
:)
Guy looks sketchy.
he is super sketchy. lol.