How to Cable a Large Split Tree | This Old House
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Certified arborist Matt Foti installs hardware to save a troubled tree from certain failure.
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How to Cable a Large Split Tree | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse
And in 20 years when the tree is felled, imagine the look on the sawmill operators face when his blade hits those hidden bolts!
Jon Lapham or the look on the chipper operators face if they mulch it, if he had one left after the blade shatters and blogs apart the housing. Or even the guy who fells it and throws a chain off the saw
Thats why they have safery gear. Unknown variables.
Ideally, unless some really sadistic gnomes come along, the cable will still be there (and visible) and if the arborist does a thorough assessment of the tree they will have hopefully identified that there is a cable in the tree and know of it's existence. Even if the bolt has been grown over, the cable should still be visible. I suppose if the cable is really short or if there is a lot of foliage blocking the view of the cable then it could go unnoticed.
The only trees that get cabled are ones that are close to things that can get damaged like sidewalks, vehicles, buildings, etc. Cable or not, this category of trees are mostly (not all though) ones that can't be felled because of their proximity to things that can be damaged. Upon removal they will have to be rigged out by a tree climber or someone in a bucket truck. The person doing the rigging will be up in the tree and should be able to identify the cable most of the time.
If the cabled tree is felled, once on the ground the cable should be visible. Remember, a cable connects TWO large stems together. Can't think of any chipper and operator that is going to attempt forcing 2 large stems into the feeder. Even if they are smaller stems, they will most likely be connected at a wide fork lower in the tree that has to be cut to be able to fit into the chipper. In most cases, when they cut the two large stems they will notice a cable once they try dragging one into the chipper and noticing that it's tugging on the other one (pretty noticable).
Cable can certainly go unnoticed, but the point I want to make is that there are MANY opportunities for the cable to be identified and in most cases they are.
we use handheld metal detectors. The same kind they use at security checkpoints.
Agreed
Cabling and bolting increases the inevitable catastrophic failure while delaying it so it can become a much bigger problem, but with the added bonus of potentially hidden steel in the wood for the cutter that has to remove it.
Increased danger over a longer period and higher costs to remove it later.
Remove it.
I think the most interesting point here is the lenght of your name 😉
Exactly
he made a hole in the tree and damaged it
I am a ISA certified arborist. If done properly, home owners can get many more years from a tree that has damage. Before cabling is performed, the tree is thoroughly evaluated to ensure it is recommended to cable a tree. After the arborist report is made, it is up to property owner to take the arborist recommendation to either remove the tree or have it cabled.
Amen
Great video, thank you. Good attention to detail and explanation👌 🇬🇧
Very interesting. Had no idea they did this to trees.
Two questions for experienced tree cabler/arborists: (1) Is a Chinese Elm an acceptable tree for branch cabling? I know that for some trees the wood is too soft and not suitable for cabling. (2) How important is it for the two branch eye-bolts to be lined up (and drilled) co-linearly? If drilled at a slight error then the cable will not pull axially at the eye-bolts, but rather will create a slight lateral angle force which could apply force (of the eye-bolt shank) on the side of the hole and perhaps widen the hole over time. Is this a common problem or not generally an issue?
I'm no expert, but have installed my fair share of cables. The bolts should always be parallel to the cable. If there's some angles and dangles happening then install the bolt diagonally through the wood sort of like how the guy in the vid did it. If the bolt stays parallel it won't side load the bolt. Hope that answers it
I'm a climber and have installed a lot of cables over the last several years. Most any tree is suitable for cabling if done correctly. As far as wood density, it's really just impotence to not go into rot. That will absolutely have a higher risk of compromising the cabling job. Also a rule of thumb is if you need to cable close to a branch union make sure you drill the hole at least the diameter of the branch away from the union to prevent weakening the union. As far as being in line you want to get as close as you can in line with the union in question you are trying to brace. If the branches are very spread out and there is not one obvious lead that sits in line you can always install a second cable in a "V" to help brace the union in question. Hope that helps!
I've cabled a thousand trees. That cable was low. 2/3 LOL
"You wont even know its there."... except for the guy with a chain saw cutting it down 20 yrs from now ~
Why is tar to prevent bugs not used here? Also why is a root based uptake insecticide not used here? I imagine a few fertilizer spikes would speed up the healing process also.
Not exactly a do-it-yourselfer project... usually tree problems are addressed AFTER the tree splits... firewood.
Thx for great info, neighbor has split tree he would really like to save.
Waste of time and money! Just a matter of time until the split letting in water causes rot and you lose the whole tree. Seen it so often. Smart thing to do is to remove one of the sides, cut properly so it can heal as single trunk. Then prune for symmetry.
remove one of the leaders? IDK That'd be a stupid idea, much better to remove and replace.
Removing one of the leaders means years of maintenance removing suckers and a big risk of decay.
I can see both sides of the argument.
water doesn't cause rot - fungi do. second, a codominant stem has no branch collar and will not heal - ever. cabling and bracing has it's place in arboriculture...
@@patriotarborist711 Water inside the tree starts the fungi. And yes, no branch collar, but I have seen the healing when cut properly near the base. Even if it does not, much better than bolting. And one would want the bolts to be visible for the life of the tree, so that when it is felled, it is not hit by a chainsaw. To say that it will heal over the bolt "so you will never know it is there" is reckless disregard for the future faller's safety.
Not sure if those bolts at the base of the trunk are doing more good than harm. The tree is reasonably sheltered by other trees and already has one cable in it. Seems overkill.
2:48 It was almost splited at the base, thats why
a gas powered drill......why didn't i think of that
Frogking9 b
I came here from Garden Answer!
Me too
Perfect!
I’m using a come along up as high as I can manage.
It's not good trees are moving in windy weather and it could cause a huge problems!
My neighbor cabled two split trunks together on a tree in his backyard that overhangs into my yard. He did not drill through like this. The cables go around the trunks, and they are choking it off.
fell and replace that tree would be a much better/safer option, "only a young tree" with a big problem the tree is going to get alot bigger and so is the problem
Yeah out with the old, in with the new. Natural selection would weed out poor structure in the wild anyways.
The only thing to if you got trees you really want to save.
If the cabling holds that will be great. But chiseling for any reason is bad. The tree will have enough to deal with without making that wound bigger.
When a tree seals over something, it's not like when I cut my hand and all the layers heal. The outside of the tree will SEAL (not heal) but the inside remains invaded. This will cause rot in time.
Look into C.O.D.I.T. from Alex Shigo. Cabling may be OK, but it's not perfect and there are things to understand about it.
that climbers gonna be real mad when the ground guys dull his saw on this tree
This guy is clearly a tree hugger.
How much does something like this cost on average in 2022?
the comments on here are funny. y'all should stick to whatever your profession is
Armchair arborist
Yard trees should never be taken to a saw mill
This is outdated advice. Today's arborists use synthetic/dynamic cables (Cobra, Tree Guard) instead, and avoid drilling holes, ruining chippers/chains, etc.
I just went to school for this stuff and the arborist industry uses both metal and Cobra systems.
They both have pros and cons respectively. But even the teacher seemed to be in favor of metal because unlike cobra, it doesn't wrap around the bark of the tree which creates an environment for moisture.
The inside of the tree is mostly old growth rings. They can afford to be drilled through without much detriment to the tree.
It's the cambium layer and the neighboring xylem and phloem that are located just behind the bark, that really provide the tree with its growth and development.
So me personally I think metal is still a welcome tool for the modern arborist. The scientific evidence just seems too logical.
@@TreDogOfficial thanks for these infos, interesting!
Cobra systems sucks.
And my parents said I couldn’t make a living climbing trees
Looks like a hooaht day aht dare
That tree should come down
Complete primitive practice.
wow horrible job way too many bolts
So youre a pro in that trade?
@@536joe He's a troll.
Hahahaha
Cut it down, waste of money.
He just lost his wife, so he will not lose this tree
536joe where did you hear that