Thanks, it's now nearly finished.. I will make more videos when it's done.. Since this video I have also made:... A rotissorie to hang the car from my ceiling, new floorpans and chassis rails from 100mm x 50mm box section 3mm thick, a shed to restore the axles in, a gantry crane to be able to move heavy things, a rotating engine stand, many tools and jigs for metalwork and lathe work etc... I have also:... Fixed a fibreglass rowing boat to use as a tank for rust removal with electrolysis to clean up the axles and other parts, rebuilt the engine, bought the Moss supercharger and manifold, made my own pulleys for the crankshaft, waterpump and alternator, an automatic belt tensioner, and basically rebuilt every other major component of the car... I've also got new wheels and tyres, parabolic springs, spax adjustable dampers, 4-pot calipers, all new stainless nuts and bolts, central locking, alarm, electric windows and a boost gauge from a WW2 Spitfire.. Currently the axles are nearly finished with around 20 coats of paint, then a bit more work on the body before painting and finally put it all back together again... I can't wait to drive it... It will be INCREDIBLE...:-)
Thanks, it's now nearly finished.. I will make more videos when it's done.. Since this video I have also made:... A rotissorie to hang the car from my ceiling, new floorpans and chassis rails from 100mm x 50mm box section 3mm thick, a shed to restore the axles in, a gantry crane to be able to move heavy things, a rotating engine stand, many tools and jigs for metalwork and lathe work etc... I have also:... Fixed a fibreglass rowing boat to use as a tank for rust removal with electrolysis to clean up the axles and other parts, rebuilt the engine, bought the Moss supercharger and manifold, made my own pulleys for the crankshaft, waterpump and alternator, an automatic belt tensioner, and basically rebuilt every other major component of the car... I've also got new wheels and tyres, parabolic springs, spax adjustable dampers, 4-pot calipers, all new stainless nuts and bolts, central locking, alarm, electric windows and a boost gauge from a WW2 Spitfire.. Currently the axles are nearly finished with around 20 coats of paint, then a bit more work on the body before painting and finally put it all back together again... I can't wait to drive it... It will be INCREDIBLE...:-)
It is far stronger than original. The metal used is thicker and everything is seam wealded compared to how cars are usually made with spot welds. Everything was measured and jigged to maintain exact dimensions and shapes.
Great job. I've had my own B for a few months and just started some proper metal bashing, cutting out rot and due to weld in new. So many rust traps on that car.
Thanks for your comment. I can't wait to see the finished project either... Watch this space... Still work in progress but I will definitely make a video when she's done.
Nice job! Having just finished replacing a bunch of metal and painting my GT last summer, I know what a good feeling it is to see it in primer for the first time. When it came time to deal with the front and rear fender beading, a local British car specialist suggested eliminating the beading, and welding the seam shut. You then use all metal filler to build up a false bead, so it looks correct. Water can't get under it and rust, now. I was concerned about the fender/cowl joint cracking, but was told it is not an issue. It also makes the front fenders non removeable. Not an issue for me. I used this technique, and was very pleased with the results. You have to be looking really close to see that they are fake, mostly because the ones on the front fenders are a slightly different shape than stock because I had thrown out my original ones. My car is a daily driver, so the difference does not matter to me! Looking forward to some finished pics of your car.
Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment and I'm glad to hear you love MG's as well.. The original wing beading is t-shaped and sits between 2 the two thrown down flanges of the adjoining panels and spot welded together from new, obviously creating a 3 layer thick join with plenty of space for rust to form and grow... On this project, the rear wing beaiding with t-section was completely cut out and a new peice of solid steel was seam welded onto both sides, creating a perfectly seam welded joint with the original appearance, also it is obvously much stronger, and there are no joints or gaps to rust out in the future. The front wing beading was done slightly differently as the beading is curved and there is not the access to fully seam weld from the inside, plus I still want to be able to remove the front wings as designed should I ever need to. The front beadings are seam welded onto one side, spot welded and seam sealed on both sides so again better than original. Love to see your car as well, send me a link, and my car will be done very soon so check back soon...
Yeah you are a Restoration Guy who goes by the Book cutting Rust out on any part of the Car , Filler to me is a Quick fix & the Rust comes back in Months rather then Years when done proper , & that is how it should be Done , the " Right way " !
You are an absolute genius, where did you learn to do such excellent work? I have a 74 B GT which needs a small amount of work. If you could point me to where I could learn such skills in the UK I would really appreciate it.
Hi Chris, Thanks for your comment and compliment... Search mindover3 on here, this guy is amazing, I bough his dvd... What parts do you need to makefor your car? And where abouts are you in the uk?
Awesome job. How long did it take for you to learn how to make the repair metal bits?? (metal work) I ask because I have to learn that myself in order to fix my 1980 MGB. My wife is sick of seeing it just sit on floor jacks.
I have a few videos on my channel documenting the progress on my MG, if you want to see it. I have been driving it since October, and it drives and feels much better. Well worth the work.
That’s some seriously nice work there! Fantastic result.
Thanks, it's now nearly finished.. I will make more videos when it's done.. Since this video I have also made:...
A rotissorie to hang the car from my ceiling, new floorpans and chassis rails from 100mm x 50mm box section 3mm thick, a shed to restore the axles in, a gantry crane to be able to move heavy things, a rotating engine stand, many tools and jigs for metalwork and lathe work etc...
I have also:... Fixed a fibreglass rowing boat to use as a tank for rust removal with electrolysis to clean up the axles and other parts, rebuilt the engine, bought the Moss supercharger and manifold, made my own pulleys for the crankshaft, waterpump and alternator, an automatic belt tensioner, and basically rebuilt every other major component of the car...
I've also got new wheels and tyres, parabolic springs, spax adjustable dampers, 4-pot calipers, all new stainless nuts and bolts, central locking, alarm, electric windows and a boost gauge from a WW2 Spitfire..
Currently the axles are nearly finished with around 20 coats of paint, then a bit more work on the body before painting and finally put it all back together again... I can't wait to drive it... It will be INCREDIBLE...:-)
Thanks, it's now nearly finished.. I will make more videos when it's done.. Since this video I have also made:...
A rotissorie to hang the car from my ceiling, new floorpans and chassis rails from 100mm x 50mm box section 3mm thick, a shed to restore the axles in, a gantry crane to be able to move heavy things, a rotating engine stand, many tools and jigs for metalwork and lathe work etc...
I have also:... Fixed a fibreglass rowing boat to use as a tank for rust removal with electrolysis to clean up the axles and other parts, rebuilt the engine, bought the Moss supercharger and manifold, made my own pulleys for the crankshaft, waterpump and alternator, an automatic belt tensioner, and basically rebuilt every other major component of the car...
I've also got new wheels and tyres, parabolic springs, spax adjustable dampers, 4-pot calipers, all new stainless nuts and bolts, central locking, alarm, electric windows and a boost gauge from a WW2 Spitfire..
Currently the axles are nearly finished with around 20 coats of paint, then a bit more work on the body before painting and finally put it all back together again... I can't wait to drive it... It will be INCREDIBLE...:-)
Great job and it looks good. But what about the structual integrety of all those bits and pieces welded together?
It is far stronger than original. The metal used is thicker and everything is seam wealded compared to how cars are usually made with spot welds. Everything was measured and jigged to maintain exact dimensions and shapes.
The car has been born again. All time classic and one of my favorite cars, amazing metal work. Thanks for the video.
Nice
Good to see car restored the old fashioned way. Lead lasts longer than filler.
Well done buddy, great job! :)
Great job. I've had my own B for a few months and just started some proper metal bashing, cutting out rot and due to weld in new. So many rust traps on that car.
Would have liked to seen the finished project, sheesh
Thanks for your comment. I can't wait to see the finished project either... Watch this space... Still work in progress but I will definitely make a video when she's done.
just great work mate well done 👍. from shane in somerset England.
Hi Shane, thanks for your compliment, check back soon and the project will be complete... I can't wait...
Nice job! Having just finished replacing a bunch of metal and painting my GT last summer, I know what a good feeling it is to see it in primer for the first time. When it came time to deal with the front and rear fender beading, a local British car specialist suggested eliminating the beading, and welding the seam shut. You then use all metal filler to build up a false bead, so it looks correct. Water can't get under it and rust, now. I was concerned about the fender/cowl joint cracking, but was told it is not an issue. It also makes the front fenders non removeable. Not an issue for me. I used this technique, and was very pleased with the results. You have to be looking really close to see that they are fake, mostly because the ones on the front fenders are a slightly different shape than stock because I had thrown out my original ones. My car is a daily driver, so the difference does not matter to me! Looking forward to some finished pics of your car.
Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment and I'm glad to hear you love MG's as well.. The original wing beading is t-shaped and sits between 2 the two thrown down flanges of the adjoining panels and spot welded together from new, obviously creating a 3 layer thick join with plenty of space for rust to form and grow... On this project, the rear wing beaiding with t-section was completely cut out and a new peice of solid steel was seam welded onto both sides, creating a perfectly seam welded joint with the original appearance, also it is obvously much stronger, and there are no joints or gaps to rust out in the future. The front wing beading was done slightly differently as the beading is curved and there is not the access to fully seam weld from the inside, plus I still want to be able to remove the front wings as designed should I ever need to. The front beadings are seam welded onto one side, spot welded and seam sealed on both sides so again better than original. Love to see your car as well, send me a link, and my car will be done very soon so check back soon...
Yeah you are a Restoration Guy who goes by the Book cutting Rust out on any part of the Car , Filler to me is a Quick fix & the Rust comes back in Months rather then Years when done proper , & that is how it should be Done , the " Right way " !
You are an absolute genius, where did you learn to do such excellent work?
I have a 74 B GT which needs a small amount of work.
If you could point me to where I could learn such skills in the UK I would really appreciate it.
Hi Chris, Thanks for your comment and compliment... Search mindover3 on here, this guy is amazing, I bough his dvd... What parts do you need to makefor your car? And where abouts are you in the uk?
Well done!
Awesome job. How long did it take for you to learn how to make the repair metal bits?? (metal work) I ask because I have to learn that myself in order to fix my 1980 MGB. My wife is sick of seeing it just sit on floor jacks.
Serious dedication
I have a few videos on my channel documenting the progress on my MG, if you want to see it. I have been driving it since October, and it drives and feels much better. Well worth the work.
To think that was considered road safe!
Famtastic skills.
Just buy a new heritage bodyshell........ much easier......less hassle......
Then it is not the same car... This one is important...
Have you priced a heritage shell?
my ol ladys snatch needs this kind of work.