For gearing it's better to avoid simple ratios like 100:25 (4:1) as it means the same gear teeth keep encountering each other. It's better to use relatively prime numbers such as 101:23 and then every gear tooth gets to encounter each tooth on the mating gear which promotes better wear.
and this is the reason why the reduction ratios are always strange! ... now I know it too .. I never thought about it. Ah the old mechanics what a legacy
@@andywhatever8533 Must be something like that, i think i am not going to hold my breath for that point to come ;) That kid seriously needs to add a metal-lathe to his toolbox. As a wood-lathe is limited to soft materials only but a metal-lathe can handle both soft and hard, and his designs are getting nowhere out of "silly toy land" without the proper tools and materials no matter how big or small the design. (obviously..) :)
You need a pressure regulator rather than a simple throttle. You also could use a pressure-balanced inlet valve, formerly used on some steam engines. In order to make it self-starting, you need at least two double-acting cylinders, with the cranks out of phase by 90 degrees, like steam locomotives.
I agree with the pressure regulator. This will allow your current engine design to run on lower pressure and use the extra reservoir pressure to get more run time.
oldvideodude Yes, a given throttle setting at the lever on the rc controller would be the input to a control system to maintain a given air pressure at the engine.
oldvideodude Sorry "throttle setting" on the rc controller, but the actual throttle valve itself, that would be modulated by a small PID controller to maintain a given pressure just ahead of the engine. So that a given position of the lever on the rc controller would correspond to a given pressure at the engine, regardless of how full the air bottle is.
That's literally how you make a dry ice bomb. Using a phase change to store more gas is a good idea, but CO2 produces far too much pressure at room temperature. Propane would be a better choice, if my research is correct it will only produces about 150psi at room temperature.
Here's an idea. Open the car's tank at sea level, then close it again so it's at sea level pressure. Take it to a higher altitude, then see if you can power it just of the difference in atmospheric pressure.
The car looked like it was going to work amazing in the first test, I did not anticipate the torque issue. I should have guessed because "air hogs" cars had a metal flywheel, which must be there to overcome this problem. Is there a reason you didn't just wrap some rubber bands around the wheels for traction? Plenty of people use them for "tires". They are also great for drive belts, which would have been less work and probably more efficient than the gears. You could probably make a CVT using one as the drive band.
The flywheel effect of the cars inertia is undermined by the gears' backlash. This engine would run great simply by adding a flywheel on the engine itself!
If you treat it like a train, you could simply keep the back wheels on track and just have the one push rod giving the wheels their power from the engine. This idea will probably just get jumbled with the rest, but I love your designs so far. And it's been turning it great! I know you'll get this thing running amazingly!
Tom i think if the engine work at 30 psi suppose then fill the bottle as high u like just use the pressure control you already built to maintain it around 30 psi using any micro controller
I have build a lot of lpe's (lego pneumatic engines) and I always find that the best power to air consumption is produced by a 2cilinder , maybe you should try buil a second engine and just conect the drive shafts . I have to mension that I dont know if the power/air consumption is going to improve with a 3d printed engine as you heve more air leaks
@@arturos.l.2248 Yeah, this design isn't meant to be super complicated. If he wanted he could add a clutch and a starting motor and all kinds of things but then it gets really heavy and complicated and you'll run into mroe issues.
I've seen a air powered car design that overcome this problem by having 2 cylinder out of phase (just like a regular car engine), so they drives each other. It was very impressive in term of speed even with low pressure. However that will require some fine tuning with the valves so that they don't work against each other. Nice work btw!
The car's momentum is enough of a flywheel. the last thing he needs is even more weight to get it going. The issue is, when the car first launches the motor has to overcome more energy then it can put out. which isn't an issue when it's connected to a small prop, or even on the table. ======THE REST OF THIS COMMENT IS WRITTEN POORLY AND HARD TO UNDERSTAND================= however the ball valve's "resistance" as we'll call it. is proportional to the pressure. And grows exponentially faster than the output, however this for the most part can still be overcome by the power output, until he puts the car on the ground, and the resistance is offset.
the engine works perfectly with no heavy load such as a propeller. but the weight of a car gives the engine an overload. it just can't produce enough power
I was a great fan of full size vehicles using compressed air for locomotion, until the day I learned that obtaining and storing compressed air is a process with 10 percent efficiency. The rest of 90 percent is lost energy.
@@FlorinSutu I think if you're pumping by your self.....Heating up of pump and may be the sound produced on the process would only be the modes of energy loss🤔 If you can specify what you expect to Google.....would be a big help
The air pressure on the input side of a rotary or slide valve will push on the valve and seal it. Look at the valve chest of a steam engine. The valve is push across the intake and exhaust ports by a rod. No guides other than what the rod provides.
I've only seen people saying he should add a flywheel, which I do agree with, but this is a really creative solution. Circumvent the pressure problem all together
Since we're running "relatively" low rpm's here, I think an arduino combined with a hall effect sensor should be able to electrically open and close the inlet valve of the motor - if you try this, use a trimpot on the arduino's analog in to be able to precisely control the valve timing. If you get this working, you might reconsider also adding the outlet valve again
steam traction engine setup would work. a fly wheel connected to the crank keeps the engine going while there are a separate set of gears driving the wheels
I agree with everyone else who says add a flywheel. That's how you solve the conundrum, by adding mass to it, so it can operate the valve at higher pressure. Most efficient solution is probably to put a shallow circular channel into the big gear, and put a large metal washer in it. A solid disc would be wasteful, since the central part just adds mass and very little rotational inertia (check out the flywheel design on a traction engine for example). It's an elegant project, this one, I'm looking forward to seeing how it develops.
If you want to improve performance I feel like there are better things to focus on than making sure the wheels don't slip during a turn. In fact, I would think the additional friction of a 3d-printed diff would hurt the performance more than it would help.
Thats is why I suggested the much simpler and more efficient solution of driving only one wheel. It is a very low cost (time and effort) modification for a significant improvement in performance.
On the motor, add a cam pushing a roller and spring. Over the part of the rotation that makes torque, have it store energy in the spring. When the torque is needed to open the inlet value have a sharp down ramp on the cam so the spring adds a large torque just at that point. This will make the motor work at high pressures at the cost of not working at extremely low pressures and a tiny bit of friction.
Sweet project! I printed a spiral plastic spring for a toy once and wound it with a little key. A simple starter motor? You'd have to wind it but then when you take the car out a plastic toggle & pawl could release the spring and start the motor. You've got some great ideas in your vids.
Okay, so, why not add a flywheel onto the small gear that runs next to it? It's hard to explain but you can make the axle coming out of the motor a bit longer and add a flywheel to it so you won't need other solutions. Or use a GT2 or related closed-loop belt. They are used in 3D-printers and work really well and don't have play.
I personally would suggest attaching a heavy flywheel directly to the engine output shaft. That way you don't have the problem you described where you have to decrease the gear ratio, and you save yourself the problem of having to redesign the entire engine. Then, I'd suggest using a proper pressure regulator for the throttle. That way you can control the throttle more accurately, and you can also pump your air tank to a higher pressure without stalling your engine.
Along with the pressure regulator he could use a two or more cylinder steam engine design for self starting and us an aluminum container with some dry ice in it.
You need a pressure regulator. You can only store more gas by compressing it so just add a pressure regulator and maybe a secondary expansion chamber to provide a fixed pressure to your engine. Your main air tank becomes a fuel tank and a secondary chamber/pressure regulator provide a constant, ideal pressure to your engine.
I think 608's are the bearings that are used for skateboards. You should get a skateboard axle to put the bearings on. It should fit better. Great video!
Build a pressure regulating valve this way you can increase the pressure and therefore volume in your tank without increasing the pressure at the engine.
Always a pleasure mate. I wish you had a site or something I might add ideas or problem solving too....Be even better then! My highest praise is always to truthfully say that I was inspired and will remain so for a good while... I think there is no more amazing thing to hear another artist say about seeing your stuff....
Tom Stanton build an enclosure for your printer I made one for my cr10 due to warping problems now all the parts turn out just fine no warping all I used was insulation foam from the hardware store
Little kenster it’s just 6 pieces of 1/2 inch polyiso insulation foam board from homedepot taped together. if you want more detailed info message me again and I’ll answer any questions
It isn’t pretty but it works great printed 4 5 inch ducts for a hovercraft project all perfectly flat also printed wheels for an rc plane turned out great to remember it doesn’t half to be pretty just functional
What you need is a 'high' pressure tank with a regulator of some sort. This way 'max PSI' doesn't matter plus you get longer run time thanks to the regulator. Example: Google. New Mini Air Pressure Regulator 1/4" w/ Free Gauge. The low pressure engine is efficient in its own way.
Put a flywheel on the crankshaft. You are also wasting a lot of energy as friction because your cams are so big in diameter. Larger diameter>faster rubbing speed at the same friction>greater power loss. Did you think of making the piston cylindrical, getting rid of the gudgeon pin?
Add a fly wheel as an intermediate step: engine runs the flywheel, flywheel runs the wheels (with a clutch?). This allows you to have a heavy flywheel with a gear ratio that allows it to carry the engine, but still have a good enough gear ration to the axil.
Hey! Simple solution is to put a weighted flywheel directly to the engine or even at a higher gear ratio off of the front of the engine(ie. spins 2-5 times for each engine revolution). As cool as a new high torque (perhaps multi cylinder) engine would be, an actual flywheel would probably solve your problem with the least effort.
You know a multi cylinder version, correctly orientated will provide the power to drive it self. No fly wheel needed. I say we revisit the multi cylinder idea. Toss efficiency in the bin, print the whole thing out of carbon nylon, slap a carbon air tank at 2000PSI (KGPSC for you) on it, and build an air powered drag car. I'll get some T shirts made. They will say "No replacement for displacement". What should we call it???? Good stuff keep it up. Best Matt
What you need : Electric starter (to get the engine running since it requires a push start every time) Better storage for the air (compressed air canister) A clutch (Should fix your torque issues when starting) That's it really. Hope to see these ideas in a future video :)
I think it will work better if you use belt instead gears to transfer power to the wheels. Especially when your gears not match very well. Good luck, and thank you for another interesting video.
I know it may be a little more complicated, but I think that a cvt would work really well for this sort of engine. It would allow for the engine to run at peak efficiency while being able to control the throttle.
although the suggestion is overused, a 2nd cylinder slightly offset from the rotation of the first was originally designed to eliminate the issue you're having. as one us dragging trying to reset the stroke, the other is pushing its stroke therefore eliminating that moment of less power, the cylinder will add smoothness between strokes and extra output power for the cost of being less fuel efficient and more complex in design
You can probably solve the issue by having a small gear as well as the dedicated flywheel on the crankshaft. This way you will keep the momentum of the flywheel but also keep the gear ratio. There's a reason why old steam engines had a huge flywheel. Also in my opinion, pressure regulator is a must. Plastic bottles can handle huge pressures. They initially bottled with far more CO2 than needed as they loose some of it during transport. For this reason they can easily handle pressures of 150psi.
You should try using secondary pressure chambers. When piston goes upwards on 2/2 phase, engine releases used air, which still got some pressure and can power smaller cylinder. So in this system you have multiple cylinder engine with only one getting main air input and the rest getting used air pushed from previous chamber on 2/2 phase. This gives a lot more torque and efficiency although decreasing rpm. This system was widely used on coal-steam engines so you should be able to find examples pretty easily. Titanic engine for example has four cylinders with three different pressure levels.
could you use some dry ice in warm water to create pressure? it would increase the mass of the car but would provide it with more pressure over longer time... or use a higher presure in the bottle (get one out of metal) and use a flow restriction.
That's a recipe for a dry ice bomb. He could use a pressure release to regulate the pressure, but that would be dumb, and would quickly freeze and be at risk of plugging up with CO2 or water ice. Liquid [ropane would be a better choice, it produces much more appropriate pressures.
Been following the vids for a while and really enjoyed them! I work with MTB suspensions and there are some things I thought would work well with your engine. Rear shocks have a PTFE glide ring on their pistons which could form a nice low friction seal. Combined with slick honey grease to seal it and provide lubrication. Would mean a round piston though but that's not a bad thing.
Couple of things. You can increase the torque output of the engine by increase the diameter of the crank shaft. A piston pushing down on the crank shaft is a lever. Bigger lever=more torque. Increasing the volume of the cylinder is not going to increase your torque. Increasing the diameter of the piston will cause an increase in torque.
G'day, Yay Team ! My thunkin's prezactly...; but I was ponderin' the possibility of usin' the existin' printed Plastic Driving-Gear/Featherweight Flywheel to make a Plaster Mould, then melt or burn out the Plastic (as is done with Lost-Wax Casting) and then cast a Metal Gear...; but, of course y're right, simply glueing a small Coin or a Steel/Lead Washer onto the Gear would cure the problem, with a shitpotful less mucking around... Have a good one, ;-p Ciao !
You need two cylinders 90 degrees out of phase so that the engine never gets stuck in a non-energized part of the stroke. On steam trains, parallel double acting cylinders had the crank phasing offset 90 degrees. A 90 degree V-twin would probably enable starting from a standstill, without a push, as your air engines are "two stroke" already.
two thing here could help, 1 a regulator, in order to have constant and optimal air pressure to the engine, and print out a second engine and just mesh the gears together, 180% out of phase so the power stroke of one will open the valve of the other
A small amount probably would not be a big deal. Suppose you'd still want to build a pressure relief valve just in case though. The danger is only if the motor was to seize otherwise the pressure will be lost through the motor running.
@@redsquirrelftw you can add a burst value that opens under very high pressure so if the pressure were to somehow build up tooo much, the value will explode letting the air out and the air container won't explode
Why dont you try to make a mini rotary motor, they have a higher rpm and can probably be geared in your car easier (but im a software engineer, you may inform me otherwise)
u Bundi if you end up having for engines you end up using more air which means more tanks which means more weight and on top of that if two or more of the engines fail to make a revolution the car would either go in circles or keep going straight uncontrollably plus this would alleviate having any steering control unless you make it into a six wheeler which would make it very difficult to make turns nice idea though.
Go for it. Some like you can Change the world in a better one. Since 20 years i heard from an air powered car. thats great what yor are doing. greetings goldjuge
I know it seems like a stretch but can you try an design a transmission for the air engines by any chance? Like give it gears so the power last longer (just to specify) And maybe a mufler or some typa exhaust Or some sort of starter for the engines instead of having to start it by hand?
You could also build a simple air regulator on the bottle. That way you can run the engine at around 35psi and pump the bottle up to it's safe maximum psi. This would give you longer run times something around like 2x(this is in now a scientific estimate)times if the bottle can handle 60 psi. You could also get some glass fiber(sold at retail or autoboty stores) and string to reinforce the bottle allowing it to hold much higher pressures.
Boosted Rc’s Not talking about this. And no. I actually designed some hydro rotary years ago, since I make hydro engine concepts, but I can't really patent them. And, I'm thinking about the most efficient engine right now. I'm not kidding, I actually use hho for my concepts, so I'm still a bit different than them. And yeah, I always thought about Hydrogen combustion engines. No pollution at all. It's great. But the Mazdas hydro system is not quite the best. Hopefully they improve it.
In a car, as opposed to a plane, you probably want to be able to actually stop and start again. You need some kind of cluch mechanism to keep the engine running at a low throttle setting always (with its own flywheel), and only engage the drive train when you throttle up. A centrifugal clutch would be interesting to 3D print, and wouldn't require a separate control.
also I Designed an Engine similar to yours , same valve and cam type. I'm not trying to sell it or steel any thing I don't plan on distributing it . but the thingivers files won't load on the page for me from r whatever reason and I want one lol . I hope its not an issue . I really enjoy this project and videos . keep up the good work
if you want low presseur but store at high presseur, you can use the thign that scuba divers use to not explode there longs. if forgot the the name, but it basicly lowers the 200bar down to about 1-3 bar
The other issue in addition to the flywheel mass and ratios is the rear drive assembly. Having a direct drive with both wheels attached doesnt allow for individual rotation speeds when turning as each wheel is trying to traveling a different distance and speed so the gear ratio and flywheel are fighting the negative drain of the inside wheel trying to spin at a slower speed and is attempting to overpower this effect. Adding a differential or even going to 1 wheel drive would greatly reduce the momentum loss and energy drain of trying to overcome this effect. You might even find you require less psi to maintain momentum. Most cars due to the diffirential powering the wheel with the least resistance are only 1 wheel drive(obviously ignoring awd and 4wd and lsds) seeing your design isnt setup to handle rough terrain i see no harm in resorting to 1 wheel drive.
USWaterRockets has a good point. The addition of a flywheel would greatly improve the operation of the engine at higher pressure as it would carry the engine through the exhaust cycle
a metal flywheel is a good alternative for sure also adding another piston would help overcoming the torque needed for valve operation since it wouldn´t depend solely on the flywheel momentum
For gearing it's better to avoid simple ratios like 100:25 (4:1) as it means the same gear teeth keep encountering each other. It's better to use relatively prime numbers such as 101:23 and then every gear tooth gets to encounter each tooth on the mating gear which promotes better wear.
Smart!
I've never thought of that! Incredible!
and this is the reason why the reduction ratios are always strange! ... now I know it too .. I never thought about it. Ah the old mechanics what a legacy
Thats mad haha
Usually we have an involute profile to have one contact point between the pinion and gear, maybe in trapizodal gears you mean?
Roadster 2020 with spacex package is way behind!
@Wintergatan Hello.
fancy seeing you here out of all places
H
Hi wintergatan. I love your music.
New technology!
You can add a flywheel to the engine itself. It's not a plane so a little bit more mass wouldn't be a big problem here.
And on a plane, the prop itself is the flywheel.
Miki stan it’s not an internal combustion engine you don’t really need one
bjorning man but it works so closely the way a internal combustion engine does that it needs the constant momentum to keep it going
A clutch would be incredible 👍🏼
@@Skreeze_Nuts It has the same principles. So it would really help it. A clutch would help a lot too
Ever considered buying a metal lathe, it could revolutionize your strategic approach to all kinds of designs. ;)
All lathes are made of metal
@@Sabthenoob and the point ?
Sabthenoob he means a lathe for metal
@@haffus77 I think he’s joking. Like a dad joke
@@andywhatever8533 Must be something like that, i think i am not going to hold my breath for that point to come ;) That kid seriously needs to add a metal-lathe to his toolbox. As a wood-lathe is limited to soft materials only but a metal-lathe can handle both soft and hard, and his designs are getting nowhere out of "silly toy land" without the proper tools and materials no matter how big or small the design. (obviously..) :)
You need a pressure regulator rather than a simple throttle. You also could use a pressure-balanced inlet valve, formerly used on some steam engines. In order to make it self-starting, you need at least two double-acting cylinders, with the cranks out of phase by 90 degrees, like steam locomotives.
I agree with the pressure regulator. This will allow your current engine design to run on lower pressure and use the extra reservoir pressure to get more run time.
oldvideodude
Yes, a given throttle setting at the lever on the rc controller would be the input to a control system to maintain a given air pressure at the engine.
he wants pressure to remain constant. the throttle would control flow only.
oldvideodude
Sorry "throttle setting" on the rc controller, but the actual throttle valve itself, that would be modulated by a small PID controller to maintain a given pressure just ahead of the engine. So that a given position of the lever on the rc controller would correspond to a given pressure at the engine, regardless of how full the air bottle is.
ahh, i understand
Finally! Someone that understands how to design something with strength!!
strength? i get if you stood on it it won’t be strength
That's Because you don't stand on it, he means it's robust in reliability
Have you thought of using dry ice and some warm water in the air tank?
i suggested it for the airplane, but it was already way too heavy. maybe here would be good
You don't even need warm water, any water will do ;-)
That would also make the smoke effect as suggested above
As long as he installs a pressure relief valve this would be really fun
That's literally how you make a dry ice bomb. Using a phase change to store more gas is a good idea, but CO2 produces far too much pressure at room temperature. Propane would be a better choice, if my research is correct it will only produces about 150psi at room temperature.
Here's an idea. Open the car's tank at sea level, then close it again so it's at sea level pressure. Take it to a higher altitude, then see if you can power it just of the difference in atmospheric pressure.
he did make a syringe powered car. and its kinda the same. It is a good idea but I don't think it might work that well
It May work but it will take much cost not to build.
@@thundersword2857 in that case we better build it then!
The car looked like it was going to work amazing in the first test, I did not anticipate the torque issue. I should have guessed because "air hogs" cars had a metal flywheel, which must be there to overcome this problem. Is there a reason you didn't just wrap some rubber bands around the wheels for traction? Plenty of people use them for "tires". They are also great for drive belts, which would have been less work and probably more efficient than the gears. You could probably make a CVT using one as the drive band.
'O' rings fitted in 3D printed grooves on the wheels work even better than rubber bands as tyres.
Rubber bands as a drive belt would have horrific losses. The gears are much better.
A cvt is a brilliant idea!
The flywheel effect of the cars inertia is undermined by the gears' backlash. This engine would run great simply by adding a flywheel on the engine itself!
Grant Duffy Yep, adding a separate flywheel seems like a great idea
It’s weird that it sounds like an engine even though it’s just compressed air
It may be because it’s quite similar to an internal combustion engine because they both explosively fill the cylinder with high pressure gases
I’m starting to wonder if they could use high pressure exhaust for an pneumatic engine
maybe use belts instead of gears, since that requires less precision.
also, why not add a separate flywheel on a different ratio?
If you treat it like a train, you could simply keep the back wheels on track and just have the one push rod giving the wheels their power from the engine. This idea will probably just get jumbled with the rest, but I love your designs so far. And it's been turning it great! I know you'll get this thing running amazingly!
Tom i think if the engine work at 30 psi suppose then fill the bottle as high u like just use the pressure control you already built to maintain it around 30 psi using any micro controller
GBranade pretty sure there could be a valve that you could also add to restrict the airflow to the engine?
A racing series with upscaled these as engines would be fun to watch
Fr
This Is honestly the best Air powered car I have ever seen! Great job dude!
You must have never had one of those air powered buggies as a kid. Those things fly. Look up Tomy Air Jammer.
I haven't really seen any air powered cars
Nexus Productions then u must see To my air jammer road rammer toy
I have build a lot of lpe's (lego pneumatic engines) and I always find that the best power to air consumption is produced by a 2cilinder , maybe you should try buil a second engine and just conect the drive shafts . I have to mension that I dont know if the power/air consumption is going to improve with a 3d printed engine as you heve more air leaks
Make a “starting motor” that spins the engine so when you stop it won’t be stuck!
Either that or enable some sort of regenerative braking system to give the engine a kick upon stopping
Also, with the rotary valve idea, try some kind of water injection idea to keep compression high using water surface tension to keep a seal.
With all that crap in addition to the steering, might as well just run it on the electric motor by itself
@@arturos.l.2248 Yeah, this design isn't meant to be super complicated. If he wanted he could add a clutch and a starting motor and all kinds of things but then it gets really heavy and complicated and you'll run into mroe issues.
I think it would work better to have a built in air compressor on it, so he doesn’t have to refill it all the time
6:30 who noticed the cat
C A T
@@holyschmoe1466 m
Yes
Why not fit an actual flywheel to the crankshaft, as well as the gear?
Or use a brass gear for the flywheel and output at the same time
@@thedeterminednovice2389 w
tbh that engine sounds like a two stroke 150cc engine. sounds incredibly good even tought it was air powered
you should try and add a secondary piston to the car, removing the need for a flywheel
Your content gives me the much needed inspiration to try new things.
Thank you.
wait... YOU ARE AN AEROSPACE ENGINEER!??!
congrats... props.... you know
Think that was a joke. Seeing as he lives in a country with no space....anything.
BAE is pretty big aerospace company from the UK
@@Thorgon-Cross he was my class mate. I know him
The sound of this thing is amazing
I've seen a air powered car design that overcome this problem by having 2 cylinder out of phase (just like a regular car engine), so they drives each other. It was very impressive in term of speed even with low pressure. However that will require some fine tuning with the valves so that they don't work against each other. Nice work btw!
love to watch your approach and drive. As one who is daunted by math, I admire your down to earth explanations and logical approach to problem solving
It really just needs an extra flywheel (brass)
yeah have a built in flywheel,, or make the gear coming from the engine metal
The car's momentum is enough of a flywheel. the last thing he needs is even more weight to get it going. The issue is, when the car first launches the motor has to overcome more energy then it can put out. which isn't an issue when it's connected to a small prop, or even on the table.
======THE REST OF THIS COMMENT IS WRITTEN POORLY AND HARD TO UNDERSTAND=================
however the ball valve's "resistance" as we'll call it. is proportional to the pressure. And grows exponentially faster than the output, however this for the most part can still be overcome by the power output, until he puts the car on the ground, and the resistance is offset.
the engine works perfectly with no heavy load such as a propeller. but the weight of a car gives the engine an overload. it just can't produce enough power
brass is too heavy, the flywheel needs to be light
a light flywheel defeat the entire purpose of a flywheel.
Where do u learn all this??
Square space
At school
@@coggy4045 not really
@@project-hobby at least a good portion tho
Skillshare
It needs a flywheel
I was a great fan of full size vehicles using compressed air for locomotion, until the day I learned that obtaining and storing compressed air is a process with 10 percent efficiency. The rest of 90 percent is lost energy.
you mean compressor warm up while pumping accounts for 90% energy loss ?
@@nikoluveen8605 - - Please search with key words on Google. It is a long subject.
@@FlorinSutu I think if you're pumping by your self.....Heating up of pump and may be the sound produced on the process would only be the modes of energy loss🤔 If you can specify what you expect to Google.....would be a big help
The air pressure on the input side of a rotary or slide valve will push on the valve and seal it. Look at the valve chest of a steam engine. The valve is push across the intake and exhaust ports by a rod. No guides other than what the rod provides.
I've only seen people saying he should add a flywheel, which I do agree with, but this is a really creative solution. Circumvent the pressure problem all together
Since we're running "relatively" low rpm's here, I think an arduino combined with a hall effect sensor should be able to electrically open and close the inlet valve of the motor - if you try this, use a trimpot on the arduino's analog in to be able to precisely control the valve timing. If you get this working, you might reconsider also adding the outlet valve again
What about adding a flywheel directly to the engine shaft?
steam traction engine setup would work. a fly wheel connected to the crank keeps the engine going while there are a separate set of gears driving the wheels
Yes!
Yeah this seems like the obvious and most easily implemented solution.
@@derekwallin2624 Yeah i thought so as well.
I agree with everyone else who says add a flywheel. That's how you solve the conundrum, by adding mass to it, so it can operate the valve at higher pressure. Most efficient solution is probably to put a shallow circular channel into the big gear, and put a large metal washer in it. A solid disc would be wasteful, since the central part just adds mass and very little rotational inertia (check out the flywheel design on a traction engine for example).
It's an elegant project, this one, I'm looking forward to seeing how it develops.
You should only drive only one of the rear wheels, or make a differential.
why?
Rob Mckennie to improve performance.
If you want to improve performance I feel like there are better things to focus on than making sure the wheels don't slip during a turn. In fact, I would think the additional friction of a 3d-printed diff would hurt the performance more than it would help.
Thats is why I suggested the much simpler and more efficient solution of driving only one wheel. It is a very low cost (time and effort) modification for a significant improvement in performance.
Lol I don't know if I buy significant, I would categorize it more along the lines of a waste of time
On the motor, add a cam pushing a roller and spring. Over the part of the rotation that makes torque, have it store energy in the spring. When the torque is needed to open the inlet value have a sharp down ramp on the cam so the spring adds a large torque just at that point. This will make the motor work at high pressures at the cost of not working at extremely low pressures and a tiny bit of friction.
Belt drive!
why would that be better???
Because he's having trouble getting the gears to mesh efficiently.
it will also allow more options to deal with the flywheel/torque issue.
how can you do that on a 3d printed car?
usse rubber bands as belts an dthen print pulleys
Good idea!
Sweet project! I printed a spiral plastic spring for a toy once and wound it with a little key. A simple starter motor? You'd have to wind it but then when you take the car out a plastic toggle & pawl could release the spring and start the motor. You've got some great ideas in your vids.
Okay, so, why not add a flywheel onto the small gear that runs next to it? It's hard to explain but you can make the axle coming out of the motor a bit longer and add a flywheel to it so you won't need other solutions. Or use a GT2 or related closed-loop belt. They are used in 3D-printers and work really well and don't have play.
I personally would suggest attaching a heavy flywheel directly to the engine output shaft. That way you don't have the problem you described where you have to decrease the gear ratio, and you save yourself the problem of having to redesign the entire engine.
Then, I'd suggest using a proper pressure regulator for the throttle. That way you can control the throttle more accurately, and you can also pump your air tank to a higher pressure without stalling your engine.
Can you not just pump the bottle to higher PSI's and use a regulator to output 30PSI
Just saw your comment. We have the same idea. This way his max PSI doesn't matter. His low RPM engine is actually efficient in that regard.
Yep, technically he could fill a small aluminium bottle to much higher PSI and just regulate it for a really long runtime
Along with the pressure regulator he could use a two or more cylinder steam engine design for self starting and us an aluminum container with some dry ice in it.
You *could* do that. Buuuuut...
WE GOTS TA GO FASTE
Julian Fernandez or use a small, battery powered compresor. I’m guessing 30 minute runtime. Maybe even more
You need a pressure regulator. You can only store more gas by compressing it so just add a pressure regulator and maybe a secondary expansion chamber to provide a fixed pressure to your engine. Your main air tank becomes a fuel tank and a secondary chamber/pressure regulator provide a constant, ideal pressure to your engine.
I think 608's are the bearings that are used for skateboards. You should get a skateboard axle to put the bearings on. It should fit better. Great video!
Another fantastic video, proving the old adage that less is more.
Add a flywheel before the gearbox so to say, so increasing ratio doesn't lower the energy of the flywheel.
would some sort of pressure regulator work? like whats used in diving gear?
Build a pressure regulating valve this way you can increase the pressure and therefore volume in your tank without increasing the pressure at the engine.
The testing is just so relaxing to watch
You could build another engine and arrange it so that always one cylinder pushes down or add a flywheel.
Stefan Bramel like a kind of multi cylinder engine, but with the gear or shaft to link them into synchronisation.
Always a pleasure mate. I wish you had a site or something I might add ideas or problem solving too....Be even better then! My highest praise is always to truthfully say that I was inspired and will remain so for a good while... I think there is no more amazing thing to hear another artist say about seeing your stuff....
Tom Stanton build an enclosure for your printer I made one for my cr10 due to warping problems now all the parts turn out just fine no warping all I used was insulation foam from the hardware store
steve crafter, I'm doing the same thing when I get my cr-10 s!
I have a cr10, how did you build it? What frame for the enclosure?
Little kenster it’s just 6 pieces of 1/2 inch polyiso insulation foam board from homedepot taped together. if you want more detailed info message me again and I’ll answer any questions
It isn’t pretty but it works great printed 4 5 inch ducts for a hovercraft project all perfectly flat also printed wheels for an rc plane turned out great to remember it doesn’t half to be pretty just functional
What you need is a 'high' pressure tank with a regulator of some sort. This way 'max PSI' doesn't matter plus you get longer run time thanks to the regulator. Example: Google. New Mini Air Pressure Regulator 1/4" w/ Free Gauge. The low pressure engine is efficient in its own way.
Put a flywheel on the crankshaft.
You are also wasting a lot of energy as friction because your cams are so big in diameter. Larger diameter>faster rubbing speed at the same friction>greater power loss.
Did you think of making the piston cylindrical, getting rid of the gudgeon pin?
Sorry I did not explain that well. I meant a square piston with two cylindrical rounded edges so that it can wobble in the bore.
Add a fly wheel as an intermediate step: engine runs the flywheel, flywheel runs the wheels (with a clutch?). This allows you to have a heavy flywheel with a gear ratio that allows it to carry the engine, but still have a good enough gear ration to the axil.
2075: we have air powered cars
We have them already in France, granted they aren't like most cars, they are little pods. Check this out: www.mdi.lu/airpod-2-0
It solves global warming
It is dangerous though
it's called steamengine. it was invented in the 1800s :P
When you replace that dangerous gasoline for a 15,000 PSI air tank lol
Hey! Simple solution is to put a weighted flywheel directly to the engine or even at a higher gear ratio off of the front of the engine(ie. spins 2-5 times for each engine revolution). As cool as a new high torque (perhaps multi cylinder) engine would be, an actual flywheel would probably solve your problem with the least effort.
I think it might work a bit better with a flywheel! Also, I'd love to see an engine like this with more pistons!!!
You know a multi cylinder version, correctly orientated will provide the power to drive it self. No fly wheel needed. I say we revisit the multi cylinder idea. Toss efficiency in the bin, print the whole thing out of carbon nylon, slap a carbon air tank at 2000PSI (KGPSC for you) on it, and build an air powered drag car. I'll get some T shirts made. They will say "No replacement for displacement". What should we call it???? Good stuff keep it up.
Best Matt
Would it work to make an actual flywheel so that you could just make the gear ratio whatever you want?
Or that two-cylinder engine! ;)
Cole Smith oohh boxer engine time
What you need :
Electric starter (to get the engine running since it requires a push start every time)
Better storage for the air (compressed air canister)
A clutch (Should fix your torque issues when starting)
That's it really. Hope to see these ideas in a future video :)
You could add a litle starter motor to it and btw you could start selling to sell these as little kits for those who doesn have 3d printer
vilho I was thinking this too.
I think it will work better if you use belt instead gears to transfer power to the wheels.
Especially when your gears not match very well.
Good luck, and thank you for another interesting video.
I know it may be a little more complicated, but I think that a cvt would work really well for this sort of engine. It would allow for the engine to run at peak efficiency while being able to control the throttle.
although the suggestion is overused, a 2nd cylinder slightly offset from the rotation of the first was originally designed to eliminate the issue you're having. as one us dragging trying to reset the stroke, the other is pushing its stroke therefore eliminating that moment of less power, the cylinder will add smoothness between strokes and extra output power for the cost of being less fuel efficient and more complex in design
Everybody gangsta until you get this on recommended two years later
You can probably solve the issue by having a small gear as well as the dedicated flywheel on the crankshaft. This way you will keep the momentum of the flywheel but also keep the gear ratio. There's a reason why old steam engines had a huge flywheel. Also in my opinion, pressure regulator is a must. Plastic bottles can handle huge pressures. They initially bottled with far more CO2 than needed as they loose some of it during transport. For this reason they can easily handle pressures of 150psi.
the engine and valve is wrong, look at mammod and their wobble cylinder which is also the inlet, the pressure does not reduce their effectivenemts
You should try using secondary pressure chambers.
When piston goes upwards on 2/2 phase, engine releases used air, which still got some pressure and can power smaller cylinder. So in this system you have multiple cylinder engine with only one getting main air input and the rest getting used air pushed from previous chamber on 2/2 phase. This gives a lot more torque and efficiency although decreasing rpm.
This system was widely used on coal-steam engines so you should be able to find examples pretty easily. Titanic engine for example has four cylinders with three different pressure levels.
ADD A FLYWHEEL AND MAKE IT AGAIN WITH UPGRADES PLS
could you use some dry ice in warm water to create pressure? it would increase the mass of the car but would provide it with more pressure over longer time...
or use a higher presure in the bottle (get one out of metal) and use a flow restriction.
That's a recipe for a dry ice bomb. He could use a pressure release to regulate the pressure, but that would be dumb, and would quickly freeze and be at risk of plugging up with CO2 or water ice. Liquid [ropane would be a better choice, it produces much more appropriate pressures.
damn
you're right i will stop making my bomb on wheels now
Been following the vids for a while and really enjoyed them! I work with MTB suspensions and there are some things I thought would work well with your engine. Rear shocks have a PTFE glide ring on their pistons which could form a nice low friction seal. Combined with slick honey grease to seal it and provide lubrication. Would mean a round piston though but that's not a bad thing.
Couple of things. You can increase the torque output of the engine by increase the diameter of the crank shaft. A piston pushing down on the crank shaft is a lever. Bigger lever=more torque. Increasing the volume of the cylinder is not going to increase your torque. Increasing the diameter of the piston will cause an increase in torque.
When is part 3 coming?
Would realy like to see more on this car
Oh you know, just about 7.95mm give or take. Keep it up dude, love your stuff!!!
Dry ice in the bottle
i agree dry ice bombs are very fun
What glue did you use to get the bike inner tube onto the rim? Even my best attempts came out quite weak
Whyyyyyy not just use a weighted flywheel?
G'day,
Yay Team !
My thunkin's prezactly...; but I was ponderin' the possibility of usin' the existin' printed Plastic Driving-Gear/Featherweight Flywheel to make a Plaster Mould, then melt or burn out the Plastic (as is done with Lost-Wax Casting) and then cast a Metal Gear...; but, of course y're right, simply glueing a small Coin or a Steel/Lead Washer onto the Gear would cure the problem, with a shitpotful less mucking around...
Have a good one,
;-p
Ciao !
WarblesOnALot tbh I was thinking to just turn a Brass or steel weight, being an aerospace engineer he should have access to a lathe XD
You need two cylinders 90 degrees out of phase so that the engine never gets stuck in a non-energized part of the stroke. On steam trains, parallel double acting cylinders had the crank phasing offset 90 degrees. A 90 degree V-twin would probably enable starting from a standstill, without a push, as your air engines are "two stroke" already.
3d printing......taking engineering back to Victorian times since 1995!!
Kceubj^•4 {¤
two thing here could help, 1 a regulator, in order to have constant and optimal air pressure to the engine, and print out a second engine and just mesh the gears together, 180% out of phase so the power stroke of one will open the valve of the other
try powering with dry ice lol
I kind of want to see that too. Baby steps though, once it's perfected he can probably try stuff like that after.
dry ice is a terrible idea. you're just making a dry ice bomb. as counter-intuitive as it sounds, liquid propane would actually be a better solution
A small amount probably would not be a big deal. Suppose you'd still want to build a pressure relief valve just in case though. The danger is only if the motor was to seize otherwise the pressure will be lost through the motor running.
@@redsquirrelftw you can add a burst value that opens under very high pressure so if the pressure were to somehow build up tooo much, the value will explode letting the air out and the air container won't explode
These air powered vehicles you make are incredible!
Now make an air car to fit you lol
5:08
Thank you!
Why dont you try to make a mini rotary motor, they have a higher rpm and can probably be geared in your car easier (but im a software engineer, you may inform me otherwise)
Make 4 wheel drive with 4 engine
u Bundi if you end up having for engines you end up using more air which means more tanks which means more weight and on top of that if two or more of the engines fail to make a revolution the car would either go in circles or keep going straight uncontrollably plus this would alleviate having any steering control unless you make it into a six wheeler which would make it very difficult to make turns nice idea though.
Yep, found the guy who watched carsandcameras XD
Modwannabe Minecraft
No problem, just use a 4500 psi scuba tank. It should compensate fot its weight
still to heavy XD in that case the car would have to be tethered sadly :(
nice idea though :)
sorry to disappoint you but I never watched that :)
Go for it. Some like you can Change the world in a better one. Since 20 years i heard from an air powered car. thats great what yor are doing. greetings goldjuge
When he sqeezes the tube it sounds like she got a cam in her
Lol she got that lope
I know it seems like a stretch but can you try an design a transmission for the air engines by any chance?
Like give it gears so the power last longer (just to specify)
And maybe a mufler or some typa exhaust
Or some sort of starter for the engines instead of having to start it by hand?
You can fix that wheel start issue with a transmission
You could just make the rubber hose a little more clamped in order to reduce airflow and therefore, reduce the PSI in the engine?
2:05 just use electrical tape 😑
You could also build a simple air regulator on the bottle. That way you can run the engine at around 35psi and pump the bottle up to it's safe maximum psi. This would give you longer run times something around like 2x(this is in now a scientific estimate)times if the bottle can handle 60 psi. You could also get some glass fiber(sold at retail or autoboty stores) and string to reinforce the bottle allowing it to hold much higher pressures.
There’s no replacement for displacement lol
Boosted Rc’s There is. Supercharging, No2. And Hydrogen injection.
I don't know about that, but there's certainly no replacement for an m60 in the trunk
Forever13 pt rotary air engine? Lol
Boosted Rc’s Not talking about this. And no. I actually designed some hydro rotary years ago, since I make hydro engine concepts, but I can't really patent them. And, I'm thinking about the most efficient engine right now. I'm not kidding, I actually use hho for my concepts, so I'm still a bit different than them. And yeah, I always thought about Hydrogen combustion engines. No pollution at all. It's great. But the Mazdas hydro system is not quite the best. Hopefully they improve it.
In a car, as opposed to a plane, you probably want to be able to actually stop and start again. You need some kind of cluch mechanism to keep the engine running at a low throttle setting always (with its own flywheel), and only engage the drive train when you throttle up. A centrifugal clutch would be interesting to 3D print, and wouldn't require a separate control.
u could throttle the pressure down when starting. otherwise ad a flywheel directly to the engine
or make the car heavyer .
also I Designed an Engine similar to yours , same valve and cam type. I'm not trying to sell it or steel any thing I don't plan on distributing it . but the thingivers files won't load on the page for me from r whatever reason and I want one lol . I hope its not an issue . I really enjoy this project and videos . keep up the good work
if you want low presseur but store at high presseur, you can use the thign that scuba divers use to not explode there longs. if forgot the the name, but it basicly lowers the 200bar down to about 1-3 bar
The other issue in addition to the flywheel mass and ratios is the rear drive assembly. Having a direct drive with both wheels attached doesnt allow for individual rotation speeds when turning as each wheel is trying to traveling a different distance and speed so the gear ratio and flywheel are fighting the negative drain of the inside wheel trying to spin at a slower speed and is attempting to overpower this effect.
Adding a differential or even going to 1 wheel drive would greatly reduce the momentum loss and energy drain of trying to overcome this effect. You might even find you require less psi to maintain momentum.
Most cars due to the diffirential powering the wheel with the least resistance are only 1 wheel drive(obviously ignoring awd and 4wd and lsds) seeing your design isnt setup to handle rough terrain i see no harm in resorting to 1 wheel drive.
USWaterRockets has a good point. The addition of a flywheel would greatly improve the operation of the engine at higher pressure as it would carry the engine through the exhaust cycle
Add differentials to the rear axle .And see the difference in speed around the corner...wish best of luck.
a metal flywheel is a good alternative for sure
also adding another piston would help overcoming the torque needed for valve operation since it wouldn´t depend solely on the flywheel momentum