I agree. I'm glad to have the right bolts in the right places. It also helps because I'm putting together a car that I didn't take apart and I've never assembled a mustang before. So it gives me clues and helps figure out how to reassemble correctly.
I might try to fab something up to save these involving lots of custom braces and JB weld, but otherwise I'll probably be headed for aftermarket parts...
@@3rdstallgarage I once made a plaster mold of the bucket, then made a fiberglass bucket from the plaster mold, but the fiberglass bucket still had issues
great idea on ordering the entire body bolt kit. Although my car had the bolts, you end up having the clean each one ,(very time consuming) plus some were NOT OEM and were swapped out over the past 50 years. some of them are very specialized ( integrated washer etc) and even a place like bolts plus do not carry them. If I had to do it again I too would have ordered the entire car as ordering the individual bags end up costing more (EDIT) forgot to mention hood... looks like it folded rear the rear hinge causing the crown. Although a new hood has its challenges I suggest replacement as you have rust in the front bracing as well. You have done a great job on the panels, I found I had to massage everything to find common ground as no one piece was to blame
Looks awesome! So much work and it is paying off. I wonder if you buy a replacement hood, should you wait to weld until you can have it in place. Don't know how different the new hood might be. Hard to wait but harder to find that the new hood has fitment issues that would've been easier to solve before welding. Congratulations on a great step forward.
Thanks. My top priority in the engine compartment is to get it as close as possible to the right dimensions and to make sure it's square. The fenders are very adjustable and can be moved in and out to match the hood if it's slightly wider or narrower. The cowl width is set. I can't change that. So I think I'm comfortable replacing the hood later. Anybody else out there recommend that getting the hood now would be important? I'd like to do a bunch of research before I buy the hood (fiberglass, metal, scoop or no, etc.)
I think that the hood is not salvageable. The pinhole rust areas are the main problem. The larger hole not so bad. I think that if u look closely at the underside of the hood u will find it is too bad to repair. The stone guard and valance are able to b repaired. Don't be afraid of the dent repair and bondo work. By the time u finish u will be good at it. All the help is on utube. Good luck. I have been through all this and just got the paint finished and it is worth all the work. I w ould buy both headlight buckets that way the will be a matching pair. I repaired one of mine and replaced the other. Sometimes u just need to spend the money. ³😂
I'll admit, I am a little intimidated by the the bondo work. But I've gone through harder learning curves. I'm willing to learn. Thanks for following along. I hope you enjoy the videos.
Get all the parts you need to replace and test fit everything again b4 you go any further. Look at Jo Daddy's garage he is a mine of information and has had all these problems and has resolved them
I am not a car guy. I am not a repair guy. I fix what I can. Social work done right is a “hands off” profession. So keep that all in mind with the following: Vin is obviously a joy-maker for you. If you were 100% serious about original restoration you would not have bought the aftermarket bolts. You also said you have some aftermarket parts on the car already. My two cheap cents are to take advantage of every affordable shortcut you can to get to done as soon as possible so you can enjoy that beast on the road. If you need to bondo or use fiberglass something, so be it. As in faith, zealous pursuit of ideals can rob you of the joy of life. Or, to paraphrase something I heard somewhere, “Vin was made for Doug, not Doug for Vin.” Besides, I’d imagine that your assistant would appreciate a ride sooner than later.
Fun topic to ponder. Why am I doing this? Which road do I wish to travel? Two mustang driven roads diverge.... ;) I've actually thought a lot about this. My goal when I'm done (car is completed) is have a resume and an education and nice car. If I wanted just wanted a nice car, then I would have saved money a little longer and then just bought one. I think I actually would be ok selling the car one year after I'm done. I don't plan to own this for the rest of my life. I think I get more enjoyment out of doing a job well myself and having it sit in the garage only partially completed, than having a completed car that I can drive. But this isn't 100% true, because some days I struggle with being patient and wish I was already done. I think God has a lesson in patience in this for me. Enough musings for now. Fortunately Bev is patient with me and will wait for a ride...as long as it takes.
I am too cheap to buy the bolt kit despite mine missing pretty much all of the factory hardware. Besides I am purposely using some GM hardware primarily to annoy the purists and the hardware is better which also annoys the purists. Oh and your headlight buckets are far better than mine... The aftermarket hood that NPD carries is a really nice piece. I picked up one in Charlotte for a friend while doing my trip last year... I have the Dynacorn fiberglass hood with the scoop. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT BUY IT. It requires a massive amount of rework. The fiberglass and the steel frame have to be bent to fit.
I think I will spend some time on my headlight buckets trying to reinforce them. Sounds like you feel pretty strongly against the dynacorn fiberglass hood!!! But you had good luck with the metal one?
@@3rdstallgarage The good fitting hood is the Improved version that NPD carries (16612-1C). It is a very nicely stamped hood. The lines and edges are nice and crisp like you expect from a modern car stamping. The only bad part about that hood is that it has a bunch of holes at the leading edge for a 4 letter word to be inserted into the holes. The one I have is the steel framed fiberglass top hood. regardless of what name is on it if it's that style it's the same hood. Scott Drake and many others sell it under their name. The price has gone up immensely on it and I wouldn't pay more than $200 for it due to the amount of rework it takes to make it usable.
@@theinfernalcraftsman do you think I should buy my replacement hood now before I weld in the cowl and fender aprons? I was hoping to buy the new hood further down the road if I could wait. I assumed that the variation between hood sizes wouldn’t affect the fender apron locations. That’s makes sense, doesn’t it?? The fenders and the hood can be fit together later I would think.
@@3rdstallgarage A new hood won't appreciably change the locations of those parts. There is more than enough adjustment range for the little you will need to get the gaps right. I would just keep an eye on prices and if they trend up more. Large sheet metal parts have gone up a bunch. My fenders were $135 from Classic in OKC. They are now $168 just a few months later.
Agree with the bolt kit purchase. Money well spent with the quality of the items and above all else the labelling. Massive time saver.
I agree. I'm glad to have the right bolts in the right places. It also helps because I'm putting together a car that I didn't take apart and I've never assembled a mustang before. So it gives me clues and helps figure out how to reassemble correctly.
After market headlight buckets require a lot of work to fit, but it looks like that’s your best option
I might try to fab something up to save these involving lots of custom braces and JB weld, but otherwise I'll probably be headed for aftermarket parts...
@@3rdstallgarage I once made a plaster mold of the bucket, then made a fiberglass bucket from the plaster mold, but the fiberglass bucket still had issues
great idea on ordering the entire body bolt kit. Although my car had the bolts, you end up having the clean each one ,(very time consuming) plus some were NOT OEM and were swapped out over the past 50 years. some of them are very specialized ( integrated washer etc) and even a place like bolts plus do not carry them. If I had to do it again I too would have ordered the entire car as ordering the individual bags end up costing more (EDIT) forgot to mention hood... looks like it folded rear the rear hinge causing the crown. Although a new hood has its challenges I suggest replacement as you have rust in the front bracing as well. You have done a great job on the panels, I found I had to massage everything to find common ground as no one piece was to blame
Thanks! Merry Christmas.
Looks awesome! So much work and it is paying off. I wonder if you buy a replacement hood, should you wait to weld until you can have it in place. Don't know how different the new hood might be. Hard to wait but harder to find that the new hood has fitment issues that would've been easier to solve before welding.
Congratulations on a great step forward.
Thanks. My top priority in the engine compartment is to get it as close as possible to the right dimensions and to make sure it's square. The fenders are very adjustable and can be moved in and out to match the hood if it's slightly wider or narrower. The cowl width is set. I can't change that. So I think I'm comfortable replacing the hood later. Anybody else out there recommend that getting the hood now would be important? I'd like to do a bunch of research before I buy the hood (fiberglass, metal, scoop or no, etc.)
I think that the hood is not salvageable. The pinhole rust areas are the main problem. The larger hole not so bad. I think that if u look closely at the underside of the hood u will find it is too bad to repair. The stone guard and valance are able to b repaired. Don't be afraid of the dent repair and bondo work. By the time u finish u will be good at it. All the help is on utube. Good luck. I have been through all this and just got the paint finished and it is worth all the work. I w ould buy both headlight buckets that way the will be a matching pair. I repaired one of mine and replaced the other. Sometimes u just need to spend the money. ³😂
I'll admit, I am a little intimidated by the the bondo work. But I've gone through harder learning curves. I'm willing to learn. Thanks for following along. I hope you enjoy the videos.
Get all the parts you need to replace and test fit everything again b4 you go any further. Look at Jo Daddy's garage he is a mine of information and has had all these problems and has resolved them
Jo Daddy is pretty amazing at what he does. i agree.
I am not a car guy. I am not a repair guy. I fix what I can. Social work done right is a “hands off” profession. So keep that all in mind with the following: Vin is obviously a joy-maker for you. If you were 100% serious about original restoration you would not have bought the aftermarket bolts. You also said you have some aftermarket parts on the car already. My two cheap cents are to take advantage of every affordable shortcut you can to get to done as soon as possible so you can enjoy that beast on the road. If you need to bondo or use fiberglass something, so be it. As in faith, zealous pursuit of ideals can rob you of the joy of life. Or, to paraphrase something I heard somewhere, “Vin was made for Doug, not Doug for Vin.” Besides, I’d imagine that your assistant would appreciate a ride sooner than later.
Fun topic to ponder. Why am I doing this? Which road do I wish to travel? Two mustang driven roads diverge.... ;) I've actually thought a lot about this. My goal when I'm done (car is completed) is have a resume and an education and nice car. If I wanted just wanted a nice car, then I would have saved money a little longer and then just bought one. I think I actually would be ok selling the car one year after I'm done. I don't plan to own this for the rest of my life. I think I get more enjoyment out of doing a job well myself and having it sit in the garage only partially completed, than having a completed car that I can drive. But this isn't 100% true, because some days I struggle with being patient and wish I was already done. I think God has a lesson in patience in this for me. Enough musings for now. Fortunately Bev is patient with me and will wait for a ride...as long as it takes.
@@3rdstallgarage Or, you could do this! th-cam.com/video/XxTQYG-2jQE/w-d-xo.html
I am too cheap to buy the bolt kit despite mine missing pretty much all of the factory hardware. Besides I am purposely using some GM hardware primarily to annoy the purists and the hardware is better which also annoys the purists.
Oh and your headlight buckets are far better than mine...
The aftermarket hood that NPD carries is a really nice piece. I picked up one in Charlotte for a friend while doing my trip last year... I have the Dynacorn fiberglass hood with the scoop. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT BUY IT. It requires a massive amount of rework. The fiberglass and the steel frame have to be bent to fit.
I think I will spend some time on my headlight buckets trying to reinforce them. Sounds like you feel pretty strongly against the dynacorn fiberglass hood!!! But you had good luck with the metal one?
@@3rdstallgarage The good fitting hood is the Improved version that NPD carries (16612-1C). It is a very nicely stamped hood. The lines and edges are nice and crisp like you expect from a modern car stamping. The only bad part about that hood is that it has a bunch of holes at the leading edge for a 4 letter word to be inserted into the holes.
The one I have is the steel framed fiberglass top hood. regardless of what name is on it if it's that style it's the same hood. Scott Drake and many others sell it under their name. The price has gone up immensely on it and I wouldn't pay more than $200 for it due to the amount of rework it takes to make it usable.
@@theinfernalcraftsman do you think I should buy my replacement hood now before I weld in the cowl and fender aprons? I was hoping to buy the new hood further down the road if I could wait. I assumed that the variation between hood sizes wouldn’t affect the fender apron locations. That’s makes sense, doesn’t it?? The fenders and the hood can be fit together later I would think.
@@3rdstallgarage A new hood won't appreciably change the locations of those parts. There is more than enough adjustment range for the little you will need to get the gaps right. I would just keep an eye on prices and if they trend up more. Large sheet metal parts have gone up a bunch. My fenders were $135 from Classic in OKC. They are now $168 just a few months later.
Just buy an after market hood they are only 155.00
Did you buy one recently at that price and if so, where?
@@3rdstallgarage NPD has one for $170, but it is of questionable quality
The hood is trash. If you attempted a repair the rust is only gonna show up somewhere else. Do yourself a favor & buy a hood, you won’t regret it
That's the conclusion I was coming to. Thanks for confirming it. Merry Christmas!