Just finished a 2007. It was a beast. I had to cut both sides of the 1/2 shaft at the bearing bracket. The bracket is pin located so even if you can get the 3 bolts out, it is not coming out until it can be lifted away from the ending block. The bearing was rusted into the bearing housing to the point that it took a press to get it out. Michigan salted roads. The shaft was so hard that the first blade lost it's teeth at 1/4 the way thru. I used a side grinder with a 4.5" disc. This got 1/6 of the way thru, all the ay around. I ground what I could and rotated the shaft 1/8 turn and did it again. After this I used a fresh saw blade and kept the speed low and sprayed WD40 on the cut. Sawed thru in less than 10 minutes. Next, when the AutoZone 1/2 shaft was installed the clearance for the snap ring was too narrow, again the side grinder saved the day, I ground the snap ring to .080, it worked. Job complete way over time. Thankful it finished well. Your video helped a great deal thank you.
Once again, great job. You made it look so easy, I tried doing it myself. THANK GOD my wife & I have another vehicle. It took me a LONG TIME to finally finish. I got so close to the end & got caught up AGAIN. At 17:10 when you put the lock ring back in its place, you did it so fast & easy. It took me A LOT longer. By the time I finally finished, the registration had expired. Once again, Damn good job.
Thanks for posting this. I just completed my change out last night and referred to your video and others as back up. One thing I picked up in getting that stubborn shaft out was to hook up a slide hammer to the cup / race of the inside joint using a vise grip attached/welded to a piece of all thread using a weight (barbell) to slide against a washer and nut. This was makeshift but it same concept! On the drivers side it worked really well. On the Passenger side I could not get it to hold when I hammered it. One site welded a bead for the vise grip to hold on to inside the cup, which I tried but got tired of messing around since temps were dropping and I was outside. I was not sending these back as a core so I just welded the all thread directly to the race, hammered and it Popped right out! Sweet! And a thanks out to all that contribute on the internet. This info saved me at least $400.00. I also installed new struts, rotors and pads. I figured I'm up around 900 to a thousand bucks totally. If you can, subscribe to one of your favorites. My next project is my 03 suburban fuel pump...Who the heck determined the fuel tank was a good place to put it???
Dadio S - the ole Suburban fuel pump. Been there done that on my 03 Suburban. If it is your first time and you intend keeping it for a long time might consider cutting the access door panel.
Donny - great video! Very helpful to understand all the steps before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends. Hope other experience same results. Donny - thanks again for taking the time to share your video - wouldn't have tackled this without watching your experience.
@@prtbone78 Yes - raise the front end and with spray/straw, aim it around entire bearing. I removed the bolt in the bracket and sprayed inside that area. Note that bolt has a rubber nub on the end of it - don't lose it and remember to re-install. Without the rubber nub, the entire bearing will spin and make a grinding sound so that bolt with nub seems to only hold the outer bearing housing in place. Also, when re-installing, apply adequate anti-seize within this bearing bracket as well as axle splines so the next time it has to come apart it's not harder than it has to be.
@JohnnyD975 thnx I got it out torching and destroying the bearing after cutting the driver side half . I completely broke the bearing so when got one side cut and out I tapped other half and ball bearings popped out so got braket off I tapped so lightly and the race came 9uy so easily not sure how I couldn't get it out in the cat but this total process was not sure but long hrs atleast 5 I'm guessing ur thanks for the tips.... also I didn't see rubber tip but o have something to put jist haven't put it in yet no issues without that rubber tip as of yet but I will put some rubber in it asap also did my oil change this weekend should have done it them totally crossed my mind
Thank you for the video. I used your method. Worked like a charm. I used an air hammer too because the manual 4lb hammer didn't budge. Went to Lowe's spent another $60 in tools and got it out in 1 minute.
I've already broke a breaker bar trying to get the axle nut to move. I sprayed some PB blaster every morning and evening for several days, it finally wanted to come out using my 1/2" wrench and 36" pipe. I think I need to invest in a rotary hammer to get the axle separated from the wheel bearing and get the axle out from the transmission like the video demonstrated.
Good Work, My hardest part was the same as yours, that bearing stuck in that hanger/bracket. I had to hit mine hard for a long time but it did finally come out. I took the bracket off afterward and it will only come off after the axle is out (it has 2 steel guides that keep it in place with the bolts out). I put some grease in the bracket and the new axle slid in easy. Mine was a 2009 Sienna
Thanks for the inspiration, did my 2015 left hand side today. No bearing bracket in this side, but had to go rent a slide hammer to get the axle to pop out of the transmission. Thanks so much for a very efficient way to get the old one out without taking off the brake caliper.
Very well done. I appreciate your efforts. It takes extra time to film while doing the work, plus editing. Thanks so much. The only thing I can think of missing is the torque specs, which can be looked up.
Great job thanks for posting! I just did control arms and it is a bear on Toyotas. Motor mounts removed, lifting engine etc. Not an easy or quick replacement. That friend of yours owns you big time if you ever ended up doing it. Will have to look for your other video. This was a great job on axle. Will be doing it this next weekend. Thank for great quality video
great video! How much torgue did you apply on the following: Tie rod castle nut, axle nut, and the three 17mm nuts? Also, do you think spreading some lubricating grease on the pedestal bearing house is a must?
Good Job , This Video is the Best I have seen so far. The carrier bearing always seems to freeze in there from what I have seen on the video. The rest is pretty straight forward. There is No easy way to remove that CB. I did not see any oil come out of the transmission in you video .. hmmmm. I think that all toyota FWD with V6 have these CV joint issues. If you ask me the part is not designed for the torque and therefore the failure. I think I got the shimmy and shake at 45mph before the boot started leaking. I also think that any rubber boots naturally fail after 6 years.
SAWZALL with carbide blade worked for me. Stuck stuck stuck. Bought the carbide blade and cut the axle about 3 inches from bearing on transaxle side. Pulled the axle out of trans. Hit the stub from the bearing 5 times with 2 pound hammer and out it came.
Great job and Very informative video I'm going to replace our 2006 Toyota Sienna cv joint axle assembly, passenger side today where Houston weather is another culprit. I hope the middle axle's bracket is not going to give a lot of sweats taking it off . I've seen on another video he cut the axle in three pieces to removed the whole axle off.
Oh, I feel it . I'm out in galveston county. Awsome, Glad the video helped. DM on Instagram if you need anything,I'll respond quicker. GOOD LUCK. Don't let the heat kill you.
I just did this exact job at a mechanic on my 2014 sienna , was charged $750 he claims in traditionally a 3 hour job !? Do u need to add Trans oil after the job ?
Same procedure for an RX400h too. I did not have an air hammer... it was struggle street. Btw, you CANNOT remove the bracket because the ferret who designed the car was having a bad day. There is one bolt that the joint blocks AND two pins. So even when you get the blocked bolt out (by winding it out and cutting the head off yuk) the driveshaft is so stiff (going into the diff) that you cannot pull the bracket off of the locating pins. It took me and my father a long time, eventually we managed to leaver the bracket off enough to disengage one pin - the other pin was damaged (my driveshaft bearing was hyper seized - UK rust) and use a hydraulic ram to push the whole assembly out. If I have to do it again I plan to set fire to the car. BTW this was the same ferret who designed the lower arm mount so that you have to remove the engine mounts to remove the lower arms. My guy needs a solid kick to the nuts. Good day.
To avoid the trouble of taking the bearing out, I only change the outer part of the axle. I separated it at the inner joint, change both boots and put everything back. I think it takes less effort. I also prefer my OEM original axle.
What are some signs the cv joint / axle is going or is bad? Mine just clatters when hitting bumps. I've grabbed it by hand and it is not really loose or sloppy. Not sure where the clatter noise is coming from . Thanks again.
Good job. GREAT actually. Good camera work, I can see everything clearly. Nice tip about NOT disconnecting the knuckle from the strut. Wish I had known that beforehand. I always thought as long as I don't disconnect the tie rod ends I was ok. I'm dealing with stuck right side CV axle on a '00 Camry, & have tried seemingly everything I can think of. What is the tool you're using (starting around 10:40) that finally gets it loose?
Awesome. Thanks for the quick response. More kudos to you for that. Also, I forgot to mention that I really dug the metal that you play in the video while you're working on releasing the axle from the carrier bearing. I'm now a subscriber. Keep up the great work, brother.
I wouldn’t recommend taking the castle but off and then putting it back on so that you can hit it with the hammer. Once the castle nut is off it should be no problem hitting it lose.
Damn that CV axle is seized!! For me, it is harder to put them back in than taking them out. Surprised no transmission fluid spilled out since you're doing the passenger side. Good vid.
So I may end up having to replace the front cv axle if I can’t fix the spindle threads I butchered after my bearing job. It’s for a 2002 RX300 AWD. So the cv axle comes out just like this? I’m about to pull it out of the spindle threader doesn’t work.
thanks...put new bearings in as well....was told never to use a impact to drive an axle nut in....could mess up your bearing....torque i think is about 240ft/lbs
Taking off the bracket really isn't difficult, just alittle more work and time. If I couldn't air hammer it out I would of unbolted the bracket... it was just super hot and I didn't want to be under the van any more.
Great video, good camera angles, good editing, but ... at the end you drive the axle nut on with an impact, big warning, this can damage the ball bearings! I had to replace a new wheel bearing after 500 miles from this mistake.
Great video. I may be doing this on my 1999 Camry in order to replace the rear motor mount, which the axle goes through. Question: what are the two or three ring-shaped things on the end of the axle where it goes into the transmission? Any special instructions regarding those?
The metal during the part where you were air hammering the bearing out completely embodies how I feel about that stupid thing. I STILL can't get it out.
I got it off!! your video totally saved me. I saw that towards the end you put the air hammer between the bearing race and the cup of the CV joint. After I had left penetrating fluid in there for a couple days, I did the same and it came right out!
Never got the bearing loose. Beat on it for hours. Finally removed the whole mount. Still couldn’t get it loose. Replaced the mount and the axle. What a terrible design.
1: You did not need to take the Tie Rod end off. Totally Unnecessary. The Ball joint upper hub bolt does not need to be removed either. Just take the 3 bolts holding the Ball joint out .. then the wheel hub is free enough to remove the axle shaft. If the Bearing seems to be seized in the Pillow block .. use the wedged shaped axle popper and pound it between the block and the joint housing the bearing will move like you had a press.
Apparently he's never done this job. It sounds like that works in theory but that bearing race is stuck stuck stuck. I'm amazed you were able to get it it out with the air hammer.
This is the most thorough and easiest video I’ve seen of someone doing this job that I’m about to undertake myself
Good luck. The drivers side is a little different.
Oh it was an absolute success!!!! Except for dropping the old axle on my iPhone 🤮
Haha save $200 on axle labor, new iphone $1000.
Just finished a 2007. It was a beast. I had to cut both sides of the 1/2 shaft at the bearing bracket. The bracket is pin located so even if you can get the 3 bolts out, it is not coming out until it can be lifted away from the ending block. The bearing was rusted into the bearing housing to the point that it took a press to get it out. Michigan salted roads. The shaft was so hard that the first blade lost it's teeth at 1/4 the way thru. I used a side grinder with a 4.5" disc. This got 1/6 of the way thru, all the ay around. I ground what I could and rotated the shaft 1/8 turn and did it again. After this I used a fresh saw blade and kept the speed low and sprayed WD40 on the cut. Sawed thru in less than 10 minutes. Next, when the AutoZone 1/2 shaft was installed the clearance for the snap ring was too narrow, again the side grinder saved the day, I ground the snap ring to .080, it worked. Job complete way over time. Thankful it finished well. Your video helped a great deal thank you.
I have never seen a carrier on a intermediate shaft that clean! Great video! Had to sawzall the shaft on my project.
Once again, great job. You made it look so easy, I tried doing it myself. THANK GOD my wife & I have another vehicle. It took me a LONG TIME to finally finish.
I got so close to the end & got caught up AGAIN. At 17:10 when you put the lock ring back in its place, you did it so fast & easy. It took me A LOT longer. By the time I finally finished, the registration had expired.
Once again, Damn good job.
Thanks for posting this. I just completed my change out last night and referred to your video and others as back up. One thing I picked up in getting that stubborn shaft out was to hook up a slide hammer to the cup / race of the inside joint using a vise grip attached/welded to a piece of all thread using a weight (barbell) to slide against a washer and nut. This was makeshift but it same concept! On the drivers side it worked really well. On the Passenger side I could not get it to hold when I hammered it. One site welded a bead for the vise grip to hold on to inside the cup, which I tried but got tired of messing around since temps were dropping and I was outside. I was not sending these back as a core so I just welded the all thread directly to the race, hammered and it Popped right out! Sweet! And a thanks out to all that contribute on the internet. This info saved me at least $400.00. I also installed new struts, rotors and pads. I figured I'm up around 900 to a thousand bucks totally. If you can, subscribe to one of your favorites. My next project is my 03 suburban fuel pump...Who the heck determined the fuel tank was a good place to put it???
Dadio S - the ole Suburban fuel pump. Been there done that on my 03 Suburban. If it is your first time and you intend keeping it for a long time might consider cutting the access door panel.
Donny - great video! Very helpful to understand all the steps before tacking my own. I just changed the driver & passenger side CV axle on my 2012 Toyota Sienna. Only removed the lower control arm (2 nuts & 1 bolt) and was able to move the strut around to remove the axle. I really dreaded the upcoming fight with that carrier bearing rusted into the housing. Purchased special carbide cutting blades, hammer bits, pry bars, etc - only to decide to try soaking the bearing in Seafoam Extreme Marine overnight - and you won't believe it. Once I removed the clip and bolt, while pulling the lower control arm off, the shaft just slipped right out. I was blown away. The interior showed signs of rust and I definitely saw rust drain when I doused it in lube, but never thought it would literally dissolve it. The key was letting it soak overnight, just like Project Farm recommends.
Hope other experience same results.
Donny - thanks again for taking the time to share your video - wouldn't have tackled this without watching your experience.
How did you soaked it? On the vehicle?
@@prtbone78 Yes - raise the front end and with spray/straw, aim it around entire bearing. I removed the bolt in the bracket and sprayed inside that area. Note that bolt has a rubber nub on the end of it - don't lose it and remember to re-install. Without the rubber nub, the entire bearing will spin and make a grinding sound so that bolt with nub seems to only hold the outer bearing housing in place.
Also, when re-installing, apply adequate anti-seize within this bearing bracket as well as axle splines so the next time it has to come apart it's not harder than it has to be.
@JohnnyD975 thnx I got it out torching and destroying the bearing after cutting the driver side half . I completely broke the bearing so when got one side cut and out I tapped other half and ball bearings popped out so got braket off I tapped so lightly and the race came 9uy so easily not sure how I couldn't get it out in the cat but this total process was not sure but long hrs atleast 5 I'm guessing ur thanks for the tips.... also I didn't see rubber tip but o have something to put jist haven't put it in yet no issues without that rubber tip as of yet but I will put some rubber in it asap also did my oil change this weekend should have done it them totally crossed my mind
best video on here for a sienna pass side axle !
Thank you for the video. I used your method. Worked like a charm. I used an air hammer too because the manual 4lb hammer didn't budge. Went to Lowe's spent another $60 in tools and got it out in 1 minute.
Thanks brother you saved my life
🤘
30mm 12pt socket was what I needed. Thanks for being detail.
No problem 👍
I've already broke a breaker bar trying to get the axle nut to move. I sprayed some PB blaster every morning and evening for several days, it finally wanted to come out using my 1/2" wrench and 36" pipe. I think I need to invest in a rotary hammer to get the axle separated from the wheel bearing and get the axle out from the transmission like the video demonstrated.
Good Work, My hardest part was the same as yours, that bearing stuck in that hanger/bracket. I had to hit mine hard for a long time but it did finally come out. I took the bracket off afterward and it will only come off after the axle is out (it has 2 steel guides that keep it in place with the bolts out). I put some grease in the bracket and the new axle slid in easy. Mine was a 2009 Sienna
Thanks for the inspiration, did my 2015 left hand side today. No bearing bracket in this side, but had to go rent a slide hammer to get the axle to pop out of the transmission. Thanks so much for a very efficient way to get the old one out without taking off the brake caliper.
Glad it helped
Thanks a bunch for this video. My dad was having a rough time and this video showed him exactly what he needed.
Right on
Thanks for the video. Saved me $1000. Pneumatic hammer on the bearing worked well. Shoot I forgot the codder pin. Thanks again.
Great video, thank you so much! Those bearing carriers are wildcards.
Very well done. I appreciate your efforts. It takes extra time to film while doing the work, plus editing. Thanks so much.
The only thing I can think of missing is the torque specs, which can be looked up.
same shit 2011 se boots been leaking for a while. grease all over. I guess alot of the siennas have a the same issue.
You made it look too simple and easy. No grunting or groaning. Are you a robot? I've messed with things like that before, but never that easy. thanks.
!!!!!!!!!!You got to mention the lock on the axel nut!!!!!!! Huge thing to leave out.
That mean bearing gets seized up, every freakin' time, no matter what you put on it when you change it lol - Great video dude!
@6:35 your castle nut for the low ball joint is dangerously lose (cotter pin missing)
It's loose because this footage Is for two videos. The other is a lower control arm video. Good eye!
Great job thanks for posting! I just did control arms and it is a bear on Toyotas. Motor mounts removed, lifting engine etc. Not an easy or quick replacement. That friend of yours owns you big time if you ever ended up doing it. Will have to look for your other video. This was a great job on axle. Will be doing it this next weekend. Thank for great quality video
What are the specifics to the driver side? How different is it? Is it easier or harder to do?
Its about the same
After when I'm finished watching your video bro I'm going to do mine change the CV axle shaft
Eres chingon bato 👍
great video! How much torgue did you apply on the following: Tie rod castle nut, axle nut, and the three 17mm nuts? Also, do you think spreading some lubricating grease on the pedestal bearing house is a must?
Torque: 123 N*m (1,250 kgf*cm, 91 ft.*lbf) (b) Install a new cotter pin.
Thank you to show your knowledge great job ...God bless you
Good Job , This Video is the Best I have seen so far. The carrier bearing always seems to freeze in there from what I have seen on the video. The rest is pretty straight forward. There is No easy way to remove that CB. I did not see any oil come out of the transmission in you video .. hmmmm. I think that all toyota FWD with V6 have these CV joint issues. If you ask me the part is not designed for the torque and therefore the failure. I think I got the shimmy and shake at 45mph before the boot started leaking. I also think that any rubber boots naturally fail after 6 years.
Thanks for the air hammer tip!
👍
SAWZALL with carbide blade worked for me. Stuck stuck stuck. Bought the carbide blade and cut the axle about 3 inches from bearing on transaxle side. Pulled the axle out of trans. Hit the stub from the bearing 5 times with 2 pound hammer and out it came.
What? No anti seize on the bracket?
Great job and Very informative video
I'm going to replace our 2006 Toyota Sienna cv joint axle assembly, passenger side today where Houston weather is another culprit. I hope the middle axle's bracket is not going to give a lot of sweats taking it off . I've seen on another video he cut the axle in three pieces to removed the whole axle off.
Oh, I feel it . I'm out in galveston county. Awsome, Glad the video helped. DM on Instagram if you need anything,I'll respond quicker. GOOD LUCK. Don't let the heat kill you.
Hi there, how strong is your air hammer? How many BPM? Thanks
I just did this exact job at a mechanic on my 2014 sienna , was charged $750 he claims in traditionally a 3 hour job !?
Do u need to add Trans oil after the job ?
thank you for this video i hope that replacing this cv axle will help with my problem the van shake badly on acceleration
Can Sienna shaft be used for Lexus 330
Your toing like a really fast kind of job
Same procedure for an RX400h too. I did not have an air hammer... it was struggle street. Btw, you CANNOT remove the bracket because the ferret who designed the car was having a bad day. There is one bolt that the joint blocks AND two pins. So even when you get the blocked bolt out (by winding it out and cutting the head off yuk) the driveshaft is so stiff (going into the diff) that you cannot pull the bracket off of the locating pins.
It took me and my father a long time, eventually we managed to leaver the bracket off enough to disengage one pin - the other pin was damaged (my driveshaft bearing was hyper seized - UK rust) and use a hydraulic ram to push the whole assembly out.
If I have to do it again I plan to set fire to the car.
BTW this was the same ferret who designed the lower arm mount so that you have to remove the engine mounts to remove the lower arms. My guy needs a solid kick to the nuts.
Good day.
How much transmission fluid did you have to add. Do you know how to check it ?
Yea im worried that my bearing would be seized up like that as well kinda discouraging how is the driver side? Easier?
Did you have to apply any grease before installing the new axle?
No
To avoid the trouble of taking the bearing out, I only change the outer part of the axle. I separated it at the inner joint, change both boots and put everything back. I think it takes less effort. I also prefer my OEM original axle.
What are some signs the cv joint / axle is going or is bad? Mine just clatters when hitting bumps. I've grabbed it by hand and it is not really loose or sloppy. Not sure where the clatter noise is coming from . Thanks again.
torque specs on control arms and tie rods and hub nut? Thanks
Do you have a video for the drivers side axel replacement?
Sorry, but it is way easier on the driver side.
Great video you are the best of the best 2021 thanks bro
Good job. GREAT actually. Good camera work, I can see everything clearly. Nice tip about NOT disconnecting the knuckle from the strut. Wish I had known that beforehand. I always thought as long as I don't disconnect the tie rod ends I was ok.
I'm dealing with stuck right side CV axle on a '00 Camry, & have tried seemingly everything I can think of. What is the tool you're using (starting around 10:40) that finally gets it loose?
Is that an air hammer?
Yea, it's an long barrel air hammer.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick response. More kudos to you for that. Also, I forgot to mention that I really dug the metal that you play in the video while you're working on releasing the axle from the carrier bearing.
I'm now a subscriber. Keep up the great work, brother.
I wouldn’t recommend taking the castle but off and then putting it back on so that you can hit it with the hammer. Once the castle nut is off it should be no problem hitting it lose.
Hey wat year is this sienna? I have a 2008, and im wondering is the replacement similar to this.?
Damn that CV axle is seized!! For me, it is harder to put them back in than taking them out. Surprised no transmission fluid spilled out since you're doing the passenger side. Good vid.
So I may end up having to replace the front cv axle if I can’t fix the spindle threads I butchered after my bearing job. It’s for a 2002 RX300 AWD. So the cv axle comes out just like this? I’m about to pull it out of the spindle threader doesn’t work.
Great video - Thank you.
Where did you buy that axles?
Great video! That axle nut isn't reverse threaded is it? Got one stubborn as heck. PB blaster then torch + breaker bar = no luck wtf!
Not reverse thread. Heat the shit out of it
thanks...put new bearings in as well....was told never to use a impact to drive an axle nut in....could mess up your bearing....torque i think is about 240ft/lbs
Thanks for the video. How easy is it to take the bracket off just in case I can't remove the shaft because the bearing is stuck?
Taking off the bracket really isn't difficult, just alittle more work and time. If I couldn't air hammer it out I would of unbolted the bracket... it was just super hot and I didn't want to be under the van any more.
Thanks for the support!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thank you. worst case I will do that.
Think one of the bolt hides behind the CV joint therefore making impossible to remove the bracket... I've seen ppl just cut it off
Thanks alots yr video
It also depends where live! Is not the same Arizona compared to chicago. Sometimes this bearing seize so bad
thanks, excellent video.
Very helpful thank you! Liked and subscribed!
Thanks for the support!
Do you have to do a wheel alignment after doing that job? Great job man.
I would recommend it if its not oem parts
Ninja skills at 5:00
🤙
Thanks again
Thank you!
PB blaster on that bearing brace would have made all the difference in the world if anyone is watching and reading now.
Awesome job thank you
Can anyone provide the torque specs for the bolts? Thanks.
Great video!
Dumb question, did you use the same cotter pin for the tire rod when you put it back together?
You can, it just needs to keep the nut from spinning off
thanks bro all good help full
Great video, good camera angles, good editing, but ... at the end you drive the axle nut on with an impact, big warning, this can damage the ball bearings! I had to replace a new wheel bearing after 500 miles from this mistake.
10k no problems. I use this impact every day almost. I got a good sense of the torque it puts down, thanks for the great comment.
Skill, priceless.
Thank you
Great video. I may be doing this on my 1999 Camry in order to replace the rear motor mount, which the axle goes through. Question: what are the two or three ring-shaped things on the end of the axle where it goes into the transmission? Any special instructions regarding those?
Awsome, Glad the video helped. DM on Instagram if you need anything else.
Thanks
Help me out with a view th-cam.com/video/OkUDUsZ7psU/w-d-xo.html Thank you
Thanks alot
Most welcome.
The metal during the part where you were air hammering the bearing out completely embodies how I feel about that stupid thing. I STILL can't get it out.
If I remember correctly, if the air hammer didn't work, I probably would of removed the bracket.
TheLateModelTech I’ve tried every combination of wrench I can find to get it off, no luck.
I got it off!! your video totally saved me. I saw that towards the end you put the air hammer between the bearing race and the cup of the CV joint. After I had left penetrating fluid in there for a couple days, I did the same and it came right out!
@@ryanhunter9757 awsome!
So handsome!!!
Kool.
You didn’t replace the balljoint
Sure did.
I replaced the whole lower control arm.
What was wrong with the lower control arm?
Never got the bearing loose. Beat on it for hours. Finally removed the whole mount. Still couldn’t get it loose. Replaced the mount and the axle. What a terrible design.
1: You did not need to take the Tie Rod end off. Totally Unnecessary. The Ball joint upper hub bolt does not need to be removed either.
Just take the 3 bolts holding the Ball joint out .. then the wheel hub is free enough to remove the axle shaft.
If the Bearing seems to be seized in the Pillow block .. use the wedged shaped axle popper and pound it between the block and the joint housing the bearing will move like you had a press.
Lol, thanks for watching.
Apparently he's never done this job. It sounds like that works in theory but that bearing race is stuck stuck stuck. I'm amazed you were able to get it it out with the air hammer.
Air hammers kick ass
You didn't even torque the cv nut. I'd never watch another video of yours
He's stoned
There was little need for the music, though.