With a larger heat radiation surface and a 90 mm hole means a larger amount of heat and possibly a lower exhaust temperature. We are waiting for the tests! The green hose is ok, I like it because it is flexible and easy to work with.
Yes... I am very curious to see what the end results will be ! There are lots of different quality levels of green hose. I would never discourage buying good hose, that's for sure, but some people get really worked up about the fact that I use soft line.
With lower exhaust temps it'll be interesting to see how clean it is after some extended use, but the immediate results will be "can it make more heat?"...I'm guessing not much, because unless more air can be moved through the burn chamber, which is the same inlet size, exhaust size, fan size, it'll go rich around the same fuel rate as all the others tested. Embrace the weird, I'd have pulled it apart first too. I hate when the diagram is wrong!
@@mugen5204 It can make more heat because the surface of the combustion chamber is larger and the hole through which the hot air comes is wider. 90mm versus 75mm.
@@uncioclasprinlume People like solving problems. It's easy to fix a problem that doesn't exist. Then some guy in the internet comes along and says your wrong ... People don't like that.
I gotta say, I've now bought about 5 things from Vevor so far, and I have found every single thing to be very decent! I have a Tig welder 3 in 1, and those castors you reviewed, one of the ultrasonic tanks, and I'm sure there was a couple other things. All shipped fast, decent packaging, and every product has met my expectations well! When are you going to do the "Overclocking a 5Kw to get an actual 8Kw" video!?? ;) Heheh! Just don't burn your garage down! Wicked detail videos man. Good job!
You also have the S-R Rotary flex shaft grinder, a lathe and late gear set that I know of... haha... How do you know when you bought too many things 🤣 Oh, don't you worry... that video is coming... I just needed to make sure that I had a heater to heat with... and also to experiment with... The day is coming, haha. Thanks !
I havent seen you try to cut off the combustion intake air volume yet. I have been toying around with mine for almost as long as you (without a lubetube channel) and have had very good results from adding a valve on the intake side of the combustion chamber but cranking up the fan speed. I now get 120*F air out of my unit, but still keep high combustion temps with lower fuel consumption. Running straight diesel tho. Thank you for all your videos, we are on the edge of our seats for part 2 of this maxspeedingrods unit
Thanks for the comment. Tinkering can be a lot of fun and you can always learn something new ! I have played with restricting air flow, in some of my earlier videos... I think a few where I was trying to burn 50/50 waste oil and gasoline, haha. I have made so many now, I don't' remember. WIth the waste oil, I found that the temp would look really good for a while, but it wasn't stable... I had to keep playing with it to keep it running... but maybe that is just because of the oil, haha.
For sure, I am only trying to run diesel in mine, but have gotten it to run most efficient using a combustion temp guage and adjusting inlet air volume while still running the fan fast to transfer as much heat as I can off the exterior of the exchanger.
The bigger heat exchanger size and especially the increased quantity of fin area will increase the heat transfer. That means it will have more hot air output from the same amount of fuel and considerably cooler exhaust temperatures. With increased fuel pump rate even more heat would be available. There are other new 8KW heaters that do come with larger and quieter fuel pumps. Some 8KW heaters also available with to 4 smaller air outlets and optional Bluetooth. Personally, I want a quiet 12v 8KW w/4 outlets and remote fuel tank to install in my trout fishing boat which is mostly used for trolling on 7,000-10,000' high mountain lakes with lots of wind and with spring temperatures in the 20 & 30F range being pretty common.
Yes, the efficiency is a great thing, for sure. Maxpeedrods claims .7l/h of fuel consumption. This = 7kw. However, listening to the pump rate, it sounds more like my 5kw heater... I'm not expecting it to do what they claim. A larger pump is only good if you can manually adjust your air flow as well, otherwise you are going to run super rich. I expected this to come with a larger fuel pump, but sadly, it does not. There are lots of heaters labeled as 8kw that come with smaller outlets or 4 small outlets, but if you read the fuel consumption per hour, the ones I have seen are not even close to 8kw. Most 4-5. That's pretty high elevation ! Way up there you are going to have to run a VERY high fan speed to or cut back on fuel, to have a reasonable air fuel ratio.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I am hoping that maybe the combination of bigger surface area and small pump would help with rich burn. I know there are heaters that have an alpine setting, but they may be pricey. A little rich would be OK because it wouldn't be used that many hours per year and a mid-season cleaning is simple. I don't really want really high fan speed because of the noise. I mostly troll on my electric motor for stealth because noise is an issue. The big heat exchange surface w/a small pump might be the best compromise. A needle valve on the pump outlet or blended fuel for less btu content might also work to clean up the combustion.
@@goldcountryruss7035 This could work as long as it doesn't get too much air. This can cause problems as well. I think Alpine mode is about 10% less fuel, so if your pump is 10% smaller that should be ok.
Hi Joel. By my estimation the 22ml pump would be running at approx 10 Hz to consume 8kW worth of fuel. Now that's an experiment. May need 2 pumps tho! Thanks for sharing, excellent work as usual.
Haha... yes, that's about right ! You would also need the fan speed to match the air requirements... To keep the pump speed reasonable, I may get a larger pump.
The Vevor Bluetooth controller works with this heaters ECU. You do loose the altitude reading. But I can control everything else. Same temps at max setting.
Right on. I haven't gotten to use mine much. I am at about 4300 feet elevation, and mine runs VERY rich, as a result. There is no way to compensate, so I have to come up with another solution.
my very first vevor i ordered , kept giving me E-08 , E-10 errors , company talked me through the obvious troubleshooting, but nothing worked , they sent me a replacement , while i waited i tore it apart to find the glow plug barely in by a thread, tightened it up and has ran ever since. definitely can't complain about their service. must have made it on a friday or monday lol. I have 3 now and will probably order more as they go on sale. almost an addiction these units !
I had someone tell me the other day that they often see lose glow plugs ... It was loose on my Maxspeedingrods heater, but tight on all 4 of my Vevor heaters. When you sell a lot of stuff, you are guaranteed that there will be issues at some point... so it is important to have good customer service. HAHA !! Yes... I understand your addiction. I have 5 in total now. I'm going to have to move somewhere that it is cold year round to satisfy my addiction.
too be honest i never expected much at first. so ripping it apart to find something wrong wasn't a surprise. I'm in southeast Saskatchewan and it was cold enough for us all a couple weeks ago lol. GF lives in Airdrie , may have to do a tims one day. keep up the good work, you're teaching lots of people good tips and tricks and its a blast watching @@loweredexpectations4927
That's great ! I'm pretty sure this one and the Bluetooth ones from Vevor are made in the same factory... or at least the parts are made in the same factory, and maybe assembled elsewhere.
these heaters are great! you got nothing for hours yet! I have over 8000hrs on a no name model clean diesel only but had to change out the fan motor at 6000hrs from bad bearings
Thanks for the info. The larger heat exchanger means that more heat can be drawn out faster, definitely an advantage. Since the machines are all built simply, the exhaust temp may go down just slightly. Waiting for your next installment.
Yes, I am really curious to see the real world numbers ... If I set both heaters to make the same heat 5hz and 5hz... The larger one should be more efficient.
@@Jack_Move Yeah... they do make different quality levels, just like everything else... Some of it is better than others, but most of the talk is people wanting to make a big deal of nothing.
There Are No 8 kw Heaters, Just A 5 kw Heater With A Bigger Heat Exchanger And A Beefed Up ECU ...That Seem To Use A Lot Of Fuel. I Had A Vevor 5 kw And Upgraded It To A Hcolory 8.5 kw Same As What You Have Got Just A Different Controller And ECU ... It Was A Lot Less Controllable But It Was Using A Lot Of Fuel Well Over 30 ltrs A Week , I Changed My 8.5 kw ECU With The 5 kw Vevor That I Upgraded From I Now Have More Control And Use A Lot Less Fuel ...But Get A Lot More Heat Than My 5 kw Vevor Due To The Bigger Heat Exchanger. So That Leads Me To Believe If The Heat Exchanger Was 2 Or Even 3 Times The Size You Would Get A Even Hotter Output If Cased Properly.Cheers For The Video Joel
Good introduction; look forward to your test results. I have been running a 5kw maxpeedingrods for over a year now; the wire loom was superior to my Vevors, the pump was quieter as well. I hope they maintained that quality.
I am very curious about what the results of the testing will be, as well. The wiring appears to be about the same as the Vevor, other than Max using that Chinese flinger trap stuff on some of the wire. The wire and connectors all seem to be the same quality.
Cool ! Thanks for the comment. I checked the CO on it and it appears to be running pretty clean.... but I am at 3500 ft and I don't think it has an alpine mode or elevation correction. Not that I have seen in the manual. I got into a menu, and it says that I am at 0000M.🤷♂️
I will try to get my testing done soon so that I can move it along to you. I only know how much I need when I can get my heater to fail... that is the plan🤟
my 8kw is 6.5inches wide and 18 inches long. th pump says 28ml. It replaced a genuine Eberspächer 8kW model. It works exactly like the Eberspächer. And i have tried a 5/8kw instead, and didn't get enogh heat. never dismantled it. It worked fine for years. Sadly it went with the boat when i sold the boat.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah, as I said I was speaking in general terms in this video and it was not in depth... I'm sure a person could make a 3 hour video talking about the origins and different variations over the years... and still manage to miss a few, haha. I learned the other day that Mikuni, the Japanese carburetor manufacturer actually made one of these heaters...
Absolutely... It claims to burn about .7L/h .... I ran it last night and I think this is a lie... To me it sounds like it is pumping the same as muy 5kw unit. I may have to upgrade some stuff.
@@gregorykucera4235 It should be a little more efficient with a larger heat exchanger, If you burn the same amount of fuel. Meaning if I run both heaters at 5hz pump speed, the smaller exchanger will send more heat out the exhaust compared to the larger one. This heater was actually a little less than my Vevor heater, but the controller is VERY basic. The Vevor is Bluetooth and has Auto on / off, as well as a bunch of other functions. This unit only displays heat setting 1-8, clock or set temp.
Looks like the volume of the burn chamber is the primary determining factor in the total heat output. Pump speed, fan speed and the size of the slightly larger heat exchanger fins are the secondary factors. I have seen the exhaust advertised as dual layer. If you want to use it for heat exchange purpose in a bucket of water, I guess it is less efficient than a butt welded single layer exhaust. If the heat exchanger is easily available, 2/5kW owners will easily upgrade to 7/8kW. 😅
The parts of the heater can use fuel more or less efficiently, but in the end, the heat energy is determined by the quantity and type of fuel. Diesel has about 10kw of energy per litre. If you burn half a litre in an hour, you are making 5kw of heat. The larger heat exchanger is great because with a small one, more of that heat may go out the exhaust and be wasted, but the maximum heat output these heaters can make at 5hz is 3.96kw as they all come with "22ml" pumps. The exhaust is interesting... very flexible, but yes... It don't think it's water tight, haha. The plastic cases are also a little different, but yeah... it may become an upgrade in a few years, when they become available as spare parts.
I suspect the exhaust temp will be lower since heat exchanger is larger, absorbing more of the same combustion heat. thus higher bru output. thanks for your review, helpful if someone wants more output heat.
There are always new versions of the diesel heater coming out. I still have the two from Vevor in my garage and they run on level 2 in the winter. I have a large diesel tank behind the garage with a capacity of 800 liters that can easily last through the winter. I am very satisfied with the diesel heaters!
Thanks for the comment and endorsement ! haha. I wish I had a giant tank of diesel / heating oil at my house.... preferably that was filled by the heating oil farry 🤣.
@@RIMHQ-YT It has been up to almost $2 in the past... last summer it wa $1.80 for a while... Alberta is an oil producing province, so that helps a little....
May want to check the back side of the brown fan. Thats where the air is pumped for the burn chamber. Slight chance it may be different. But mark the shaft to the fan and measure the space between the fan and the housing. I believe that clearance is pretty important. Generally speaking they are ballanced. Well. Maybe ballanced. Lol. Also i thought hcalory was the only one with the bigger one. It was pretty quick for someone to steal the new design. Lol.
I actually did porting on my old fan housing, so it would not be a good comparison, haha. That being said, if the exhaust and inlets are the same size, it wouldn't help much to change the fan housing. The biggest restriction is actually visible when you look in the inlet hole... there is a shelf about an inch in... it is pretty horrible and part of the reason I did porting on mine. I think you are right. The fan is likely most efficient while almost touching. That is how I normally run them. I'm not sure if Hillary actually had these heaters made or what the deal is... They appear to be the first ones to offer them. It's really odd to me that they don't make a bigger deal out of this... My guess is that they thought about it, and overall it's bad marketing "hey, this one is really an 8kw ... kinda ... you know those other ones we sell and say they are 8kw.... well... this one is closer to the truth" 🤣
Inform Vevor about the problem, they will probably send you a replacement. I got one recently and it wouldn't hit the 200C mark for a max temp. Told Vevor and they sent a better one.
Iam curious to see your heat output findings with the larger 8kw heater. Someone on another site has the Hcalory 8 KW heater and it does put out more heat, but does not appear to be alot more. He didn't go into detail so I will just wait for your results. Thanks!
I found someone else that has previously shown these have a larger heat exchanger. Hcalory appears to have one but it is out of stock. Yes, I want to see the burn numbers.
I want to install one in my greenhouse to help out those frigid winter nights. How long can the exhaust pipe be before a back pressure or ? issue arises ? I am planning on exhausting into the bottom of an Old Brass Hot Water Register, and out the top, then out side. Too Much length to exhaust properly ? Perhaps your experts can shed some light on this also.. Great Vids and Info.. Keep 'em Coming !
I have a video coming out tomorrow where I tackle this exact subject. I test my heater with a total of 16 feet if exhaust. As long as the register isn't restrictive, you shouldn't have issues, as long as you get rid of of the condensate. Water will fill the register pretty quickly if you don't have a drain, so you may have to come up with a creative solution. You can get duckbill drains that allow water out but not gases. If it is in a greenhouse (not extremely well sealed) a 1/8 inch, 3mm hole shouldn't be a problem, but you would have to monitor CO to know for sure.
Use aluminium scaffold tube, i'ts around 60mm internal diameter. Key clamp fittings if you need elbows, seal it all with high temperature silicone and rope. My greenhouse used to have a 4"cast iron pipe for heating, dates back to at least 1910.
The exhaust gases may be a few degrees cooler when they are vented out of the garage. I don't think the heating works much better than the Vevor one. But I'm also excited about the result. 😊
You guys are gonna hate me for this, but I'm currently testing it a little, off camera 🤣. I will obviously do some filming, but I just didn't feel like it at the moment.
@loweredexpectations4927 lol why would anyone be surprised? Better then trying to figure it out if it's any different and making a video full of umm... ahhhhh... ehhhh.. well shit gotta edit that out now 😂
My pump is 0.022 per pulse. max of 5.5 Hz = 435.6 cc per hour. Diesel = 10.35kWh per litre. 10.35 x 0.4356 = 4.5 kW heat possible from the fuel. Exhaust waste about 0.5kW, so hot air = 4kW. As an aside; mill a flat on the end of the heat exchanger, Cut a scrap one in half, mill a flat and bolt the two together and recover that 0.5kW.
👍 Yes, those numbers make sense. I generally just go with 10kw/l as the math is really easy and pretty close. The heat loss is depends on a lot of variables, but that also seems reasonable. It is possible to extend the exchanger with a second one. You would likely have to weld a flange on each side as there isn't anything there to actually bolt together.
You should run the 5kw and the new one at the same pumping rate and fan speed. I would like to see what the difference is with the exhaust temperature and discharge temperature.
@@2hotscottpro Have the Bluetooth controller on my Hcalory. Looking at modding the fuel pump pulse timing or just making my own with a 555 timer and a Mosfet or high power Npn like a 3055.
Yeah... I'm thinking that that will happen at some point, after I give it a good test as is. I think this one is capable of much more than it delivers out of the box.
@@kirkwalsh1932 I think it just makes sense ...and likely the reason for not doing it is because it isn't cost effective to make a new one.... or maybe they tested it and it didn't help that much, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yea, all the tubes seem to be 100mm long for the 5kw heat exchanger. 125mm would be nice to try for sure. Sadly I don't have a piece of 2" kicking around to weld on mine.
I figured they would be 100% identical. I do wonder how fast you can run the pump and fan before you have diminishing returns, plus too high of internal temperatures. This did also make me wonder why no one makes a 10KW or 15KW that is just a much larger size? It seems like if you just scaled size of everything and fuel quantity this would be achievable.
How much fuel you can burn depends somewhat on yoru elevation, but generally about 6 HZ and you are going to start having issues. These heaters were designed decades ago, and everyone is basically working off of that same platform... It is fairly cheap to make a new case, new electronics etc.... but there would be a LOT of R&D required to design and cast a totally new, larger heater. It would require a lot of testing to get the fuel ratios correct, and even more testing to ensure that it was safe. It could happen, as the market grows for these things, and people start using them for things other than heating their vehicles... It is possible.
i found a problem well its down to ether the ecu r the pump if i but the heater on h3 ,h4,h5,6 the pump will tick like norm but then will give 4-5 bumps verry quick then slow back to tick for about 10 sec then 4-5 pumps then slows it will not just stay at a steady tick now i hear the same thing on h1,h2
Hello David. Are you the person who was having fume issues ? Sorry... I kinda forget. Do you have the same heater as in this video ? This could be completely normal, depending on what ECU you have. My original heater does this. When the heat exchanger reaches 210C, the ecu slows the fuel rate to keep the temp from going too high. When it drops to 208 it speeds up again. If you are at high elevation (I am at 3500ft) the rich AFR will cause it to make extra heat and may continuously bounce off this fuel limit. Depending on your model of heater, you may have an Alpine mode or some other way to compensate for elevation. This will reduce fuel. if you are not at high elevation, check to make sure your air inlet and exhaust are not restricted, as this will cause it to run rich / hot. Your heating air inlet and outlet being restricted will also cause the temp to go up and the same thing can happen.
I'm going to guess that this heater is more efficient / better at capturing energy instead of allowing it to escape out the exhaust. I will have to compare it to my other heaters. Thanks for the comment.
I think what he means is that you will lose less heat out the exhaust ... and this should be true ... A larger exchanger will be more efficient / better at capturing more of the heat produced, instead of it going out the eschuase pipe.
Hey 👋 Good video. I have a vevor 5k right now label said 8k same as my other vevor 5k. Whats the result on this how much air it push out anymore then the 5k ?
I'm having an awful time with my internet connection and have already explained this in detain... haha. The fan on the Max heater turns a lot faster, but the main restriction is the air inlet hole size. The extra air is not enough to compensate, fully, for the additional fuel that is also added by the ECU, and I have had issues with it running VERY rich.
@@loweredexpectations4927 well that’s disappointing was hoping there would finally be something more powerful then the 2k and 5k out there. Heating a class a motorhome the old furnace ducts works but the 5k is a little underpowered the further away from the heater I get and splitting it. Hcalory have a few options that have peaked my interest there is just no way of knowing till I order one and open it up. Vevor has been great though just wish they would make a true 8k.
@@fromtheroadwithrobert The MaxPeedingRods heater is more powerful than most "8kw" heaters... but it doesn't make 8kw... my quick assessment is that it makes around 7. The problem being that at my elevation, it runs way too rich at the highest setting, and there isn't any way to correct that. (no alpine mode) I don't believe that 8Kw is possible with the standard exhaust and inlet sizes. The fuel pump can be increased to feed enough fuel, but the heater itself can not move enough air and exhaust. This would mean a total redesign of the exchanger and fan housing (air inlet) I believe Dave McLuckie has done videos on larger heaters that claim to be much larger, and were actually over 8kw... but I may be misremembering.
Have you tried a 50/50 mix of oil and diesel? 51/49 is my intention since in my country burning waste oil is specifically illegal and if blended I'm burning diesel wiyh an "additive" ;-)
Haha... I have tried burning 50/50 as well as 70/30, 70/25/5 oil, diesel gasoline and a bunch of other mixes. The oil that I am burning is sourced from my business and is lawnmower engine oil, so usually nothing special. A large portion of it is from return customers, meaning I know what the oil was ... for a few years I used Motul oil, as I got about 500 litres of it for free... but other than that it has been basic mineral oil.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Tell me about how the blends went please - or tell me how to find the video(s) with that content? Most of my used oil is mixed with engine flush which is something like kerosene, so thinned down. By the time I burn it all the sediments will have fallen out too. Some is mixed with highly flammable degreaser. The whole lot will be going into an IBC with a bunch of diesel on top. Sadly there is also cooking oil and animal fat in my blend, and this is the worst for burning, ha ha. You have a conflict of interest there, supply customers better oil and get worse to burn oil back, supply customers the worst cheapest oil and get better fuel back, ha ha.
@@fredio54 I started mixing my diesel from the very first run, but didn't remember if I actually measured the amount of oil. In the early videos in the series, I had several where I talk about my exact mix ratios, but some of them were not about the mix ratio specifically. part 4 of the series was 50/50 oil and gas I think. ... I will leave links below.
You are going to crunch numbers on fuel burn, and it may, or not be the same as your Vevor unit. The question I have ,in seeing the the heat exchanger is clearly larger, how will you determine the volume of hot air out the discharge, bigger heat exchanger, clearly more volume of hot air 🤔
This is a very good point.... and I will likely go into a little more detail other than fuel consumption, but the "plan" is to show the max possible output. The "plan" is to set them both at the same fuel consumption and check exhaust temperatures. The 5kw, I assume will be higher. The larger exchanger will be more efficient at 5hz than the smaller one, but as the demands increase, there will not really be any practical comparison. To actually track efficiency would be pretty difficult. I would say the most practical way would be to heat a volume of water with the exhaust , capturing all of the heat possible so that room temp air was coming out, then calculate the energy required to raise the temp of the water and subtract that.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Would it be feasible to heat a certain size room, and compare the time it takes to get to a certain temperature. Also, another great video 🇨🇦
@@stevecarlisle3323 Yeah... I did think about that, but your results would be very ... unsure. If you heat up a room, you need to make sure that the outside temperature is consistent and the same for both tests. Heat loss out of a room is dependant on outside temps. If you can manage to do that, you also need the objects in the room to be the same temperature, as those objects will absorb heat faster when they are cold, slower when they are warm, and not at all if they are room temperature. The testing would have to start with the room being held at say 10C over night, so that everything in the room was 10C. Perform your test and so the same thing the next day with the other heater and hope that your outside temp was stable and the same for both days. I'm being picky, of course, but if you didn't do this, people would tear you apart in the comments, haha. I had a few people really upset about this when I replicated the heat going out in my house.... even though it made no sense in that case.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Well now that you put it that way, I will just let you figure it out, but they never put all that re engineering in that heat exchanger for nothing. Just have to wait for your scientific evaluation 😊
@@stevecarlisle3323 Haha... no ... I can 100% guarantee that it is more efficient / better at getting heat out of the combustion process and into your living space... The only real questions for me are 1. How much more efficient is it when directly compared to a 5kw heater with both consuming the same amount of fuel, and 2. Will the larger size be efficient enough at transferring that extra heat, so that the larger heater will be more efficient at max heat output... I suspect the answer is "no" If the heater consumes almost 50% more fuel, then it will make 50% more heat energy. Unless the exchanger is 50% larger (50% better at transferring heat, then the top end efficiency will be worse, despite it being able to make a lot more heat.
i got a all i one first day was good 2 days later fired it up and had to shut it down the house was full of fumes so i striped it down every thing was nice tite but did see metal gaskit not paper put it back in case same thing even check cleand the tank on the out side ,i dont know if it was blow back thro the Exhaust thro the wall idk i have seen plp use rtv on the gaskit and round the top of the glow plug they say it works carnt try it out till payday i have it on right now and now n then a big woft of fumes ,any one got any ideas
Hello David. Fist off, the heater shouldn't make any fumes once it is running. A little on start up and shut down, but that's it. I don't know how your heater is installed, so there are a lot of possibilities. Is your heater installed inside withe the exhaust running out, or outside with the heat being plumbed in ? Are you recirculating air from inside the house, or are you pulling in fresh air from outside ? If the heater is running well, the gaskets do almost nothing and this is almost certainly not your problem. If the glow plug boot leaks, the air is fresh air ... combustion doesn't happen in the fan inlet area. If the heater is working poorly, sputterint, making a lot of smoke or backfiring, then some smoke may come out the glow plug or fuel line plugs. If this is the case, you need to address the working issues, not seal it up better. Chances are there is something about your install that isn't ideal.
@@loweredexpectations4927 iv try it side withe air pip out side iv tryd it out side with just the hot air pip comig in its the same i eve got a 2 m Exhaust thinking that was it but no my carbon mon tester will blink for 1 sec sying move to fresh air put the alarm duz not go off iv sent the seller a dm see what they say
What Vevor heater is this for ? That's quite the difference between normal and mountain mode... I have seen it before, but do you know at what elevation they recommend switching from one to the other ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 this is for the heaters with the blue displays. You have had same all in one heater last winter in your videos. I don't know for sure at what elevation vevor recommends the alpine mode. I live at an altitude of 420 meters above sea level and I run both of my heaters on alpine mode H2 with the 28ml pump. It saves fuel as well. I run my heaters 24/7 round about 80-90 days a year on level H1 or H2 alpine mode. It depends on how cold it's outside. The annually fuel consumption is about 750-800 litres for those 80 days. My garage has a constant temperature 🌡 of 14-15°C.
lol all these heaters came from the same manufacturer with different configurations and name badges. It’s like a clone factory trying to hide the clones’ true identity 😂
Yeah, that's probably not too far from the truth. I'm sure there are a few different factories pumping these things out, but obviously Vevor and Max don't actually manufacturer heaters.
If your waste oil is synthetic or not worn out it will be harder to burn. Automotive mineral oils that have done 6000 miles are typically much thinner, with the long chain hydrocarbons broekn down by sheer in the bores and bearings. Synthetic (PAO/Ester) oil does not sheer.
I have tried new engine oil in one of my tests... Fresh Motul oil, and it was much harder to ignite. The end result was just about the same as far as ash left behind, but it really did not want to burn. One of the oils that I used was a semi synthetic... I believe. My memory is foggy. Either way, I have found that any engine oil takes a lot of heat to flash off. Once it does, you can get it to burn pretty clean, but it will leave ash behind. The ash, in these little heaters (in stock configuration) becomes an issue very quickly. The design of the chamber means that any crud built up disturbs air flow, and that causes things to quickly spiral out of control.
@@loweredexpectations4927 good job testing new - I just can't imagine lawn mowers stressing the oil very much - most likely it just gets dirty - but any degree of wear on the oil would result in easier burning through lower viscosity, lower point of evaporation, and easier to consume molucules. Brand is not important. Group 3 hydrocracked mineral oil is often called "synthetic" or "full synthetic" and is MUCH better than ordinary mineral but not as good as PAO/Ester genuine synthetic. I'm not sure how sheer resistant those processed molecules are or are not. PAO/Ester oil will be shit to burn new or used, approximately the same :-D ATF is usually harder to burn too as it's a higher grade of oil generally, and also has a lot of additives. As for the ash, the ash is mineral components. By the white look of yours I'm assuming zinc oxide is a big part of it - since zinc compounds are a common anti wear additive in motoroils (good ones, at least). Ash is unavoidable when using these types of lubricants so I guess the only really viable approach is periodic cleaning.
@@fredio54 Yeah... I try to tell people all the time. Car engines need oil changes because they wear the oil out. Utility engines need oil changes because the oil gets dirty. Modern engines run pretty clean and the oil gets broken down from heat and shear forces. A Briggs & Stratton engine, Honda, Kohler etc, put a lot of carbon, combustion byproducts and partly burnt fuel, into the oil. It's like taking a glass of wine and throwing a handful of dirt in it... the wine might be fine, and it might be the best wine available, but it's still crap with dirt in it, haha. (in my opinion all wine is crap tho) So you're saying that ATF has a lot of additives and is hard to burn ... Interesting. I've had a few people tell me that they burn it wich success... but I've had a lot of people tell me all sorts of incorrect things, haha. Yeah... I assume that some of the ash is from additives... I'm interested to know what percent is from additives. I have talked to a bunch of heavy boiler techs who say that they develop a lot of ash, and that heavy fuel oil would not have those sorts of additives.
That exhaust pipe isn't great I've seen it on webasto heaters that I've pulled off mini buses to be fair they were between 5 and 10 years old but it fell apart as soon as I tried to remove it and the older one's had already split
Yeah... I think once you heat cycle any thing stainless like that, it's going to get brittle. I had the same thing happen to my seam welded stuff, but it has been red hot several times.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I used old gas fire chimney liners that are pretty much the same for my big oil burners and before I used a oil 🛢 to take out a lot of the heat the liner would often get cherry red and not last long have you seen th-cam.com/video/ElVDjFO--7U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KCSQ5R_marxisVZm
Is it advertised as an 8kw as they always seem to have you believe they are more powerful than they actually are like you know, If it is advertised as an 8kw thats strange as I would have thought they would have advertised it as a 9kw or 10kw..
@loweredexpectations4927 what I mean is I expect the air movement to be the same as the LF bros 5Kw heater, it to has a 90mm output hood and it has alot more air movement producing more of a heat output.
@@madtom87tom I have this large body heater and at sea lvl I'm at a running temp of 215-220C. If you take the intake cover off, it moves a ton of air, dropping the running temp of the body down around 180C. But I'm testing in my shop where it was -10C outside and 10C inside. I have added propane to the combustion air intake and I've had the heater running around 240-250C. I have 2 videos of this heater taking propane.
@kirkwalsh1932 definitely right about taking the inlet grill off, but my LF bros n3 pro heater definitely still puts out way more air movement on the highest setting. I also checked temperatures coming out and have to give the win to LF bros. I'm not sure if many people know about them that are new to the American market, but they seem to be a better built unit. It also coast more. I paid 500 for it.
@@madtom87tom I saw those, but aren't in my current budget. I'd really like to find a brushless motor that would match these. Is the air intake on the other one 75mm or is it bigger?
This is true on most of these heaters, however, this one claims to consume .7l/h ... I have done some preliminary testing and can say that it consumes a LOT more than. Rough numbers indicate over 20% more.
I have a genuine webasto airtop evo 5500 (5,5kw) and an airtop 2000s. The 3,5kw and 5,5kw webasto have the same body size. The 5,5 has a 65ml Pump 3x than my 2 chinese 5kw heater (22ml pump). The Webasto 5,5 is A LOT bigger, a lot quiter . if somebody gave me a webasto 5,5kw without the covers and a chinese 5/8kw body and told to compare them by guessing. i would guess that the webasto 5,5 has at least 8kw. i didnt do the math but i trust webasto when they say its 5,5kw so i dont think that the chinese ones make even 4kw. having 1/3 of the pump i would guess somewhat about 2-3 kw
@@martmccars166 the original WEBASTO heaters have a very quiet pump as well. WEBASTO are very good heaters. But what you shouldn't forget is that you get 25 Chinese diesel heaters for one WEBASTO! 🤗
Haha... It is possible to spin the fan faster and add more fuel to make more heat... At some point the efficiency of the can will decrease due to the inlet and exhaust restrictions. Not sure if this is what you meant or not, but with diesel, running it lean actually causes it to cool off and make less power, unlike gasoline and other fuels. I do plan on juicing one of mine up at the end of the season to see what happens.
My comment was meant purely as a joke, I mean 10k RPM should have let ya all know I was kidding around, lol...plus I tend to comment to help the channel grow, so I say goofy stuff at times.
🤣 I love it. Thank you ! haha. It is for testing purposes... I'm almost certainly going to make the heater fail by taking things to the extreme, and then I will have a bunch of poeple saying "see, we tried to tell you"
I am going to try to remember to check this ... the tricky part will be to set them both to the same heat output... I have already checked the 5kw for a video that will be released tomorrow (16 feet of exhaust) haha....
Thanks to your video's I picked up a couple of heaters, one 5W and one 8W. Weeeeee down the rabbit hole we go.....
HAHA... they are great... the added bonus of keeping you warm, if you don't mess with them too much and ruin them, haha.
5 Watts isn't going to keep you warm, nor is 8 Watts - I think you missed out your kilos ;-)
@@fredio54 Haha... yes, but we all know what he means.
With a larger heat radiation surface and a 90 mm hole means a larger amount of heat and possibly a lower exhaust temperature. We are waiting for the tests!
The green hose is ok, I like it because it is flexible and easy to work with.
Yes... I am very curious to see what the end results will be !
There are lots of different quality levels of green hose. I would never discourage buying good hose, that's for sure, but some people get really worked up about the fact that I use soft line.
With lower exhaust temps it'll be interesting to see how clean it is after some extended use, but the immediate results will be "can it make more heat?"...I'm guessing not much, because unless more air can be moved through the burn chamber, which is the same inlet size, exhaust size, fan size, it'll go rich around the same fuel rate as all the others tested. Embrace the weird, I'd have pulled it apart first too. I hate when the diagram is wrong!
@@loweredexpectations4927 You demonstrated that there is no pressure in the green hose, so I don't understand why some people think differently.
@@mugen5204 It can make more heat because the surface of the combustion chamber is larger and the hole through which the hot air comes is wider. 90mm versus 75mm.
@@uncioclasprinlume People like solving problems. It's easy to fix a problem that doesn't exist. Then some guy in the internet comes along and says your wrong ... People don't like that.
I gotta say, I've now bought about 5 things from Vevor so far, and I have found every single thing to be very decent! I have a Tig welder 3 in 1, and those castors you reviewed, one of the ultrasonic tanks, and I'm sure there was a couple other things. All shipped fast, decent packaging, and every product has met my expectations well!
When are you going to do the "Overclocking a 5Kw to get an actual 8Kw" video!?? ;) Heheh! Just don't burn your garage down!
Wicked detail videos man. Good job!
You also have the S-R Rotary flex shaft grinder, a lathe and late gear set that I know of... haha... How do you know when you bought too many things 🤣
Oh, don't you worry... that video is coming... I just needed to make sure that I had a heater to heat with... and also to experiment with... The day is coming, haha.
Thanks !
I havent seen you try to cut off the combustion intake air volume yet. I have been toying around with mine for almost as long as you (without a lubetube channel) and have had very good results from adding a valve on the intake side of the combustion chamber but cranking up the fan speed. I now get 120*F air out of my unit, but still keep high combustion temps with lower fuel consumption. Running straight diesel tho.
Thank you for all your videos, we are on the edge of our seats for part 2 of this maxspeedingrods unit
Thanks for the comment.
Tinkering can be a lot of fun and you can always learn something new ! I have played with restricting air flow, in some of my earlier videos... I think a few where I was trying to burn 50/50 waste oil and gasoline, haha. I have made so many now, I don't' remember.
WIth the waste oil, I found that the temp would look really good for a while, but it wasn't stable... I had to keep playing with it to keep it running... but maybe that is just because of the oil, haha.
For sure, I am only trying to run diesel in mine, but have gotten it to run most efficient using a combustion temp guage and adjusting inlet air volume while still running the fan fast to transfer as much heat as I can off the exterior of the exchanger.
Good video Joel as always, im looking forward to the next video and you putting it through its paces..
I'm excited to see what it can do... Should be fun.
@@loweredexpectations4927
Even without seeing it I know its going to answer the questions I already have, im realy looking forward to it..
Number 1 keep them up! Love the videos!
🤟 Thanks ! First comment !
Great video man . Cheers 🍻
Thanks for the comment !
The bigger heat exchanger size and especially the increased quantity of fin area will increase the heat transfer. That means it will have more hot air output from the same amount of fuel and considerably cooler exhaust temperatures. With increased fuel pump rate even more heat would be available. There are other new 8KW heaters that do come with larger and quieter fuel pumps. Some 8KW heaters also available with to 4 smaller air outlets and optional Bluetooth. Personally, I want a quiet 12v 8KW w/4 outlets and remote fuel tank to install in my trout fishing boat which is mostly used for trolling on 7,000-10,000' high mountain lakes with lots of wind and with spring temperatures in the 20 & 30F range being pretty common.
Yes, the efficiency is a great thing, for sure.
Maxpeedrods claims .7l/h of fuel consumption. This = 7kw. However, listening to the pump rate, it sounds more like my 5kw heater... I'm not expecting it to do what they claim.
A larger pump is only good if you can manually adjust your air flow as well, otherwise you are going to run super rich.
I expected this to come with a larger fuel pump, but sadly, it does not. There are lots of heaters labeled as 8kw that come with smaller outlets or 4 small outlets, but if you read the fuel consumption per hour, the ones I have seen are not even close to 8kw. Most 4-5.
That's pretty high elevation ! Way up there you are going to have to run a VERY high fan speed to or cut back on fuel, to have a reasonable air fuel ratio.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I am hoping that maybe the combination of bigger surface area and small pump would help with rich burn. I know there are heaters that have an alpine setting, but they may be pricey. A little rich would be OK because it wouldn't be used that many hours per year and a mid-season cleaning is simple. I don't really want really high fan speed because of the noise. I mostly troll on my electric motor for stealth because noise is an issue. The big heat exchange surface w/a small pump might be the best compromise. A needle valve on the pump outlet or blended fuel for less btu content might also work to clean up the combustion.
@@goldcountryruss7035 This could work as long as it doesn't get too much air. This can cause problems as well. I think Alpine mode is about 10% less fuel, so if your pump is 10% smaller that should be ok.
Nice video mate I generally don't know what to comment because your videos are to accurate ❤❤
Thanks ! I do my best to be entertaining and also educational.
The green hose is doing its job. Nothing special about it, but it works. :)
It does work. There is better stuff out there and I would never discourage using good fuel line, but yes, this stuff works.
Hi Joel. By my estimation the 22ml pump would be running at approx 10 Hz to consume 8kW worth of fuel. Now that's an experiment.
May need 2 pumps tho!
Thanks for sharing, excellent work as usual.
Haha... yes, that's about right ! You would also need the fan speed to match the air requirements... To keep the pump speed reasonable, I may get a larger pump.
The Vevor Bluetooth controller works with this heaters ECU. You do loose the altitude reading. But I can control everything else. Same temps at max setting.
Very interesting... I tried connecting at one point and didn't detect anything... I will have to try at some point.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I plugged the wire harness into the ECU.
New video posted of glow plug voltage on the 5kw ECU.
@@kirkwalsh1932 Right on !
These are great heaters. I have 2 of them.
Right on. I haven't gotten to use mine much. I am at about 4300 feet elevation, and mine runs VERY rich, as a result. There is no way to compensate, so I have to come up with another solution.
Lucky you have one. They are not for sale on Amazon anymore.
my very first vevor i ordered , kept giving me E-08 , E-10 errors , company talked me through the obvious troubleshooting, but nothing worked , they sent me a replacement , while i waited i tore it apart to find the glow plug barely in by a thread, tightened it up and has ran ever since. definitely can't complain about their service. must have made it on a friday or monday lol. I have 3 now and will probably order more as they go on sale. almost an addiction these units !
I had someone tell me the other day that they often see lose glow plugs ... It was loose on my Maxspeedingrods heater, but tight on all 4 of my Vevor heaters.
When you sell a lot of stuff, you are guaranteed that there will be issues at some point... so it is important to have good customer service.
HAHA !! Yes... I understand your addiction. I have 5 in total now. I'm going to have to move somewhere that it is cold year round to satisfy my addiction.
too be honest i never expected much at first. so ripping it apart to find something wrong wasn't a surprise. I'm in southeast Saskatchewan and it was cold enough for us all a couple weeks ago lol. GF lives in Airdrie , may have to do a tims one day. keep up the good work, you're teaching lots of people good tips and tricks and its a blast watching @@loweredexpectations4927
thanks for the great review as always!
Thanks for your support ! Much appreciated.
I have the all in one model of The Maxpeedingrods … it has over 250 hours on it with no issues… running on pure diesel . It rocks !!
That's great ! I'm pretty sure this one and the Bluetooth ones from Vevor are made in the same factory... or at least the parts are made in the same factory, and maybe assembled elsewhere.
Miines done 136hrs so far...
How do you keep up with the hours?
these heaters are great! you got nothing for hours yet!
I have over 8000hrs on a no name model clean diesel only but had to change out the fan motor at 6000hrs from bad bearings
AWESOME!. I think you can replace the bearing/s, but hey, all cheap. I got the cheap one too. They do job very well! Cheers!@@NightshiftCustom
Thanks for the info. The larger heat exchanger means that more heat can be drawn out faster, definitely an advantage. Since the machines are all built simply, the exhaust temp may go down just slightly. Waiting for your next installment.
Yes, I am really curious to see the real world numbers ... If I set both heaters to make the same heat 5hz and 5hz... The larger one should be more efficient.
Watched a lot of your videos as of late , love the commentary an your content...keep up the experiments .... Cheers.
I appreciate your support. Thank you !
I absolutely love that green hose!
You can tell it's eco friendly also... because it's green.
No issues with it either, Just need to use it for what it was intended for. Same stuff that gets used on weed whackers , chain saws & so on.
@@Jack_Move Yeah... they do make different quality levels, just like everything else... Some of it is better than others, but most of the talk is people wanting to make a big deal of nothing.
There Are No 8 kw Heaters, Just A 5 kw Heater With A Bigger Heat Exchanger And A Beefed Up ECU ...That Seem To Use A Lot Of Fuel. I Had A Vevor 5 kw And Upgraded It To A Hcolory 8.5 kw Same As What You Have Got Just A Different Controller And ECU ... It Was A Lot Less Controllable But It Was Using A Lot Of Fuel Well Over 30 ltrs A Week , I Changed My 8.5 kw ECU With The 5 kw Vevor That I Upgraded From I Now Have More Control And Use A Lot Less Fuel ...But Get A Lot More Heat Than My 5 kw Vevor Due To The Bigger Heat Exchanger.
So That Leads Me To Believe If The Heat Exchanger Was 2 Or Even 3 Times The Size You Would Get A Even Hotter Output If Cased Properly.Cheers For The Video Joel
How long did your heater run every week? For 8.5 kWh you'll need 867 ml fuel per hour!
That's my plan here, to get a different motherboard and controller with a 28ml pump on the larger body.
@@kirkwalsh1932 I run my vevor heaters with a 28ml pumps. I don't think the bigger body will put out much more heat than the vevor heaters. 👋
@@roastntoast7550 you should try propane injection, cranks out lots of heat.
@@kirkwalsh1932 that's crazy dude! 😂 it will blow up my entire garage for sure! 🤣
Good introduction; look forward to your test results. I have been running a 5kw maxpeedingrods for over a year now; the wire loom was superior to my Vevors, the pump was quieter as well. I hope they maintained that quality.
I am very curious about what the results of the testing will be, as well. The wiring appears to be about the same as the Vevor, other than Max using that Chinese flinger trap stuff on some of the wire. The wire and connectors all seem to be the same quality.
great video! cant wait to see how clean it burns at max settings as I have got 2 of these models atm one running 24/7 this year
24/7 all over the year? 😳 where are you from? North Pole? Mine is running also 24/7 but only for round about 80-90 days a year .
Cool ! Thanks for the comment. I checked the CO on it and it appears to be running pretty clean.... but I am at 3500 ft and I don't think it has an alpine mode or elevation correction. Not that I have seen in the manual.
I got into a menu, and it says that I am at 0000M.🤷♂️
LOL... he said "this year" so that's only a Month and two days... Still... it must be a large space or very cold !
I have dibs on 15ft out of that 100' of green fuel line if you dont want it. Still need some for my jerry cans
I will try to get my testing done soon so that I can move it along to you. I only know how much I need when I can get my heater to fail... that is the plan🤟
Awesome. 👍
my 8kw is 6.5inches wide and 18 inches long. th pump says 28ml. It replaced a genuine Eberspächer 8kW model. It works exactly like the Eberspächer. And i have tried a 5/8kw instead, and didn't get enogh heat. never dismantled it. It worked fine for years. Sadly it went with the boat when i sold the boat.
Thanks for the comment.
Yeah, as I said I was speaking in general terms in this video and it was not in depth... I'm sure a person could make a 3 hour video talking about the origins and different variations over the years... and still manage to miss a few, haha.
I learned the other day that Mikuni, the Japanese carburetor manufacturer actually made one of these heaters...
Looking forward to seeing it run probably put out more heat but it will be more costly to run .
Absolutely... It claims to burn about .7L/h .... I ran it last night and I think this is a lie... To me it sounds like it is pumping the same as muy 5kw unit.
I may have to upgrade some stuff.
@@loweredexpectations4927 It probably put out more heat with a bigger burning chamber right ,Did if cost more than a vevor?
@@gregorykucera4235 It should be a little more efficient with a larger heat exchanger, If you burn the same amount of fuel. Meaning if I run both heaters at 5hz pump speed, the smaller exchanger will send more heat out the exhaust compared to the larger one.
This heater was actually a little less than my Vevor heater, but the controller is VERY basic. The Vevor is Bluetooth and has Auto on / off, as well as a bunch of other functions. This unit only displays heat setting 1-8, clock or set temp.
Looks like the volume of the burn chamber is the primary determining factor in the total heat output. Pump speed, fan speed and the size of the slightly larger heat exchanger fins are the secondary factors.
I have seen the exhaust advertised as dual layer. If you want to use it for heat exchange purpose in a bucket of water, I guess it is less efficient than a butt welded single layer exhaust.
If the heat exchanger is easily available, 2/5kW owners will easily upgrade to 7/8kW. 😅
The parts of the heater can use fuel more or less efficiently, but in the end, the heat energy is determined by the quantity and type of fuel.
Diesel has about 10kw of energy per litre. If you burn half a litre in an hour, you are making 5kw of heat.
The larger heat exchanger is great because with a small one, more of that heat may go out the exhaust and be wasted, but the maximum heat output these heaters can make at 5hz is 3.96kw as they all come with "22ml" pumps.
The exhaust is interesting... very flexible, but yes... It don't think it's water tight, haha. The plastic cases are also a little different, but yeah... it may become an upgrade in a few years, when they become available as spare parts.
Are you weird wanting to tear it apart ??
C'mon man- we are all a bit weird wanting to be here
You are our Master, O Weird one ;
Haha, I suppose this is true. ✌
I suspect the exhaust temp will be lower since heat exchanger is larger, absorbing more of the same combustion heat. thus higher bru output. thanks for your review, helpful if someone wants more output heat.
Yes, if you are accounting for actual heat displaced by the exchanger, then this will be able to outperform the smaller body heaters, for sure.
Thanks.
👍 Thank you !
There are always new versions of the diesel heater coming out. I still have the two from Vevor in my garage and they run on level 2 in the winter. I have a large diesel tank behind the garage with a capacity of 800 liters that can easily last through the winter. I am very satisfied with the diesel heaters!
What do you pay for 1 litre of diesel where you are? Here it's 2usd each litre
Thanks for the comment and endorsement ! haha.
I wish I had a giant tank of diesel / heating oil at my house.... preferably that was filled by the heating oil farry 🤣.
I'm not sure what roast pays, I have been paying $1.49 a litre, and in the fall it was $1.66 / litre (canadian dollars)
@@loweredexpectations4927 wow. I wish!! That's like year 1995 here that price. I wish. And the price I mentioned is the "farmers no tax" price even.
@@RIMHQ-YT It has been up to almost $2 in the past... last summer it wa $1.80 for a while... Alberta is an oil producing province, so that helps a little....
May want to check the back side of the brown fan. Thats where the air is pumped for the burn chamber. Slight chance it may be different. But mark the shaft to the fan and measure the space between the fan and the housing. I believe that clearance is pretty important. Generally speaking they are ballanced. Well. Maybe ballanced. Lol. Also i thought hcalory was the only one with the bigger one. It was pretty quick for someone to steal the new design. Lol.
I actually did porting on my old fan housing, so it would not be a good comparison, haha. That being said, if the exhaust and inlets are the same size, it wouldn't help much to change the fan housing. The biggest restriction is actually visible when you look in the inlet hole... there is a shelf about an inch in... it is pretty horrible and part of the reason I did porting on mine.
I think you are right. The fan is likely most efficient while almost touching. That is how I normally run them. I'm not sure if Hillary actually had these heaters made or what the deal is... They appear to be the first ones to offer them. It's really odd to me that they don't make a bigger deal out of this...
My guess is that they thought about it, and overall it's bad marketing "hey, this one is really an 8kw ... kinda ... you know those other ones we sell and say they are 8kw.... well... this one is closer to the truth" 🤣
I've seen some of these marketed as 8.5Kw.
I think they should just label them as S,M, L, XL.😁@@loweredexpectations4927
I bought an 8kw and a 5kw vevor diesel heater, and the 5kw seems to work better than the 8kw.
Interesting. Better in what way ?
Inform Vevor about the problem, they will probably send you a replacement. I got one recently and it wouldn't hit the 200C mark for a max temp. Told Vevor and they sent a better one.
The 5kw puts out more heat while using a little less fuel.@@loweredexpectations4927
@@kirkwalsh1932 Yeah. They are pretty good, as long as you don't wait too long to tell them.
Iam curious to see your heat output findings with the larger 8kw heater. Someone on another site has the Hcalory 8 KW heater and it does put out more heat, but does not appear to be alot more. He didn't go into detail so I will just wait for your results. Thanks!
I have played with this a little, but have not had time to do actual testing. I am sure that it will make more heat.
I found someone else that has previously shown these have a larger heat exchanger. Hcalory appears to have one but it is out of stock. Yes, I want to see the burn numbers.
Yeah, I think Dave McLuckie did a video almost a year ago. The exchanger is bigger for sure. I am curious what the number will be !
Lr bro. Has true 5 k heaters
@@markhunt6573 Interesting. According to their consumption claims, actually about 5.3kw.... Based on the all in one that I found on amazon.
Thanks for posting
Thanks for your comment !
I want to install one in my greenhouse to help out those frigid winter nights. How long can the exhaust pipe be before a back pressure or ? issue arises ? I am planning on exhausting into the bottom of an Old Brass Hot Water Register, and out the top, then out side. Too Much length to exhaust properly ? Perhaps your experts can shed some light on this also.. Great Vids and Info.. Keep 'em Coming !
I have a video coming out tomorrow where I tackle this exact subject. I test my heater with a total of 16 feet if exhaust.
As long as the register isn't restrictive, you shouldn't have issues, as long as you get rid of of the condensate. Water will fill the register pretty quickly if you don't have a drain, so you may have to come up with a creative solution.
You can get duckbill drains that allow water out but not gases. If it is in a greenhouse (not extremely well sealed) a 1/8 inch, 3mm hole shouldn't be a problem, but you would have to monitor CO to know for sure.
Use aluminium scaffold tube, i'ts around 60mm internal diameter. Key clamp fittings if you need elbows, seal it all with high temperature silicone and rope.
My greenhouse used to have a 4"cast iron pipe for heating, dates back to at least 1910.
This will be interesting, wondering if output with potential to flow more volume with a larger heating surface if it'll actually heat any more
The exhaust gases may be a few degrees cooler when they are vented out of the garage. I don't think the heating works much better than the Vevor one. But I'm also excited about the result. 😊
You guys are gonna hate me for this, but I'm currently testing it a little, off camera 🤣. I will obviously do some filming, but I just didn't feel like it at the moment.
@loweredexpectations4927 lol why would anyone be surprised? Better then trying to figure it out if it's any different and making a video full of umm... ahhhhh... ehhhh.. well shit gotta edit that out now 😂
@@ChippyOutdoors Haha... yeah... I do normally do things in real time and just try not to sound like an idiot.
My pump is 0.022 per pulse. max of 5.5 Hz = 435.6 cc per hour.
Diesel = 10.35kWh per litre. 10.35 x 0.4356 = 4.5 kW heat possible from the fuel. Exhaust waste about 0.5kW, so hot air = 4kW.
As an aside; mill a flat on the end of the heat exchanger, Cut a scrap one in half, mill a flat and bolt the two together and recover that 0.5kW.
👍 Yes, those numbers make sense. I generally just go with 10kw/l as the math is really easy and pretty close.
The heat loss is depends on a lot of variables, but that also seems reasonable. It is possible to extend the exchanger with a second one. You would likely have to weld a flange on each side as there isn't anything there to actually bolt together.
You should run the 5kw and the new one at the same pumping rate and fan speed.
I would like to see what the difference is with the exhaust temperature and discharge temperature.
Absolutely ! That test is coming... one of the things I am the most curious about.
I got the same temps from both the 8kw vevor Bluetooth motherboard and the original Maxpeedingrod one
@@kirkwalsh1932
Ha! I guess there is still not enough of a difference in the surface area to make any change.
@@kirkwalsh1932
Did you try extending the burner tube?
@@hotrodplumber I will be trying this, haha.
Hcalory makes a 6-8KW version as well with 90mm output. Currently out of stock on company website for $180
Yeah... I think this is the same thing according to a few commenters. I think that is what Dave McLuckie did a video about almost a year ago.
Bought my 6-8kw for 115.Works great.
@@2hotscottpro Which brand did u get ? These are the only 2 I've seen in the Actual larger size.
@@Jack_Move Hcalory but the controller isn’t like any other I’ve see .
@@2hotscottpro Have the Bluetooth controller on my Hcalory. Looking at modding the fuel pump pulse timing or just making my own with a 555 timer and a Mosfet or high power Npn like a 3055.
Nice video. You just need to change the motherboard and put a larger pump on and we can test together....lol
Yeah... I'm thinking that that will happen at some point, after I give it a good test as is. I think this one is capable of much more than it delivers out of the box.
That's plastic and not glass in that fuel filter. Don't ask how I know....🤣🤣🤣
@@kirkwalsh1932 HAHA... I was wondering that as I was filming... you saw it in my eyes eh...
I can show you pictures on Instagram of mine I melted while running full tilt. Lots of white smoke.
I wonder if extending the burn tube on the "8k" unit by 1" would improve the efficiency by taking full advantage of the deeper heat exchanger.
I wondered the same thing, and plan on trying this.
I had mentioned this in my measurements video to Joel a little while back. I have video proof.....😂😂😂😂
@@kirkwalsh1932 I think it just makes sense ...and likely the reason for not doing it is because it isn't cost effective to make a new one.... or maybe they tested it and it didn't help that much, haha.
@@loweredexpectations4927 yea, all the tubes seem to be 100mm long for the 5kw heat exchanger. 125mm would be nice to try for sure. Sadly I don't have a piece of 2" kicking around to weld on mine.
@@kirkwalsh1932 I may try to press something on and make it adjustable... or just check to see what the clearance on the 5kw is and match that, haha.
I figured they would be 100% identical. I do wonder how fast you can run the pump and fan before you have diminishing returns, plus too high of internal temperatures. This did also make me wonder why no one makes a 10KW or 15KW that is just a much larger size? It seems like if you just scaled size of everything and fuel quantity this would be achievable.
How much fuel you can burn depends somewhat on yoru elevation, but generally about 6 HZ and you are going to start having issues.
These heaters were designed decades ago, and everyone is basically working off of that same platform... It is fairly cheap to make a new case, new electronics etc.... but there would be a LOT of R&D required to design and cast a totally new, larger heater. It would require a lot of testing to get the fuel ratios correct, and even more testing to ensure that it was safe.
It could happen, as the market grows for these things, and people start using them for things other than heating their vehicles... It is possible.
@@loweredexpectations4927 When you put it like that, it makes a ton of sense. I suppose it isn't just a linear graph of size, fuel, air.
It looks longer than the 5kw which would make sence as the air needs time to heat up when passing over the heat exchanger..
Yeah, the outer body is a little longer, and the heat exchanger itself is substantially deeper.
i found a problem well its down to ether the ecu r the pump if i but the heater on h3 ,h4,h5,6 the pump will tick like norm but then will give 4-5 bumps verry quick then slow back to tick for about 10 sec then 4-5 pumps then slows it will not just stay at a steady tick now i hear the same thing on h1,h2
Hello David.
Are you the person who was having fume issues ? Sorry... I kinda forget. Do you have the same heater as in this video ?
This could be completely normal, depending on what ECU you have. My original heater does this. When the heat exchanger reaches 210C, the ecu slows the fuel rate to keep the temp from going too high. When it drops to 208 it speeds up again.
If you are at high elevation (I am at 3500ft) the rich AFR will cause it to make extra heat and may continuously bounce off this fuel limit. Depending on your model of heater, you may have an Alpine mode or some other way to compensate for elevation. This will reduce fuel.
if you are not at high elevation, check to make sure your air inlet and exhaust are not restricted, as this will cause it to run rich / hot. Your heating air inlet and outlet being restricted will also cause the temp to go up and the same thing can happen.
I'll be watching for that Fuel Filter ... lol
I can show you pictures of mine and where the glass melted...😂😂😂
Where's Waldo
SO fancy.
@@Joe-hj6pg You mean, "where's weirdo" ... here I am.
I like that the heat exchanger is that much larger. Do you think it will more effectively pull out the heat?
I don't think so Sir because the calorific value of diesel is always the same at 9.8 kWh per liter.🤗
@@roastntoast7550 that maybe true hut why do so many people make contraptions to recover more heat from the exhaust pipe?
I'm going to guess that this heater is more efficient / better at capturing energy instead of allowing it to escape out the exhaust. I will have to compare it to my other heaters.
Thanks for the comment.
I think what he means is that you will lose less heat out the exhaust ... and this should be true ... A larger exchanger will be more efficient / better at capturing more of the heat produced, instead of it going out the eschuase pipe.
Yeah, I think he misunderstood what you were saying.
Hi. At the end you will find out that the diesel oil cannot produce the amount of heat that they declare! Cheers
Yeah... not in any real practical sense. They don't flow enough air to burn that much fuel.
Hey 👋 Good video. I have a vevor 5k right now label said 8k same as my other vevor 5k. Whats the result on this how much air it push out anymore then the 5k ?
I'm having an awful time with my internet connection and have already explained this in detain... haha.
The fan on the Max heater turns a lot faster, but the main restriction is the air inlet hole size. The extra air is not enough to compensate, fully, for the additional fuel that is also added by the ECU, and I have had issues with it running VERY rich.
@@loweredexpectations4927 well that’s disappointing was hoping there would finally be something more powerful then the 2k and 5k out there. Heating a class a motorhome the old furnace ducts works but the 5k is a little underpowered the further away from the heater I get and splitting it. Hcalory have a few options that have peaked my interest there is just no way of knowing till I order one and open it up. Vevor has been great though just wish they would make a true 8k.
@@fromtheroadwithrobert The MaxPeedingRods heater is more powerful than most "8kw" heaters... but it doesn't make 8kw... my quick assessment is that it makes around 7. The problem being that at my elevation, it runs way too rich at the highest setting, and there isn't any way to correct that. (no alpine mode)
I don't believe that 8Kw is possible with the standard exhaust and inlet sizes. The fuel pump can be increased to feed enough fuel, but the heater itself can not move enough air and exhaust. This would mean a total redesign of the exchanger and fan housing (air inlet)
I believe Dave McLuckie has done videos on larger heaters that claim to be much larger, and were actually over 8kw... but I may be misremembering.
Have you tried a 50/50 mix of oil and diesel? 51/49 is my intention since in my country burning waste oil is specifically illegal and if blended I'm burning diesel wiyh an "additive" ;-)
Haha... I have tried burning 50/50 as well as 70/30, 70/25/5 oil, diesel gasoline and a bunch of other mixes.
The oil that I am burning is sourced from my business and is lawnmower engine oil, so usually nothing special. A large portion of it is from return customers, meaning I know what the oil was ... for a few years I used Motul oil, as I got about 500 litres of it for free... but other than that it has been basic mineral oil.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Tell me about how the blends went please - or tell me how to find the video(s) with that content? Most of my used oil is mixed with engine flush which is something like kerosene, so thinned down. By the time I burn it all the sediments will have fallen out too. Some is mixed with highly flammable degreaser. The whole lot will be going into an IBC with a bunch of diesel on top. Sadly there is also cooking oil and animal fat in my blend, and this is the worst for burning, ha ha. You have a conflict of interest there, supply customers better oil and get worse to burn oil back, supply customers the worst cheapest oil and get better fuel back, ha ha.
@@fredio54 I started mixing my diesel from the very first run, but didn't remember if I actually measured the amount of oil. In the early videos in the series, I had several where I talk about my exact mix ratios, but some of them were not about the mix ratio specifically. part 4 of the series was 50/50 oil and gas I think.
... I will leave links below.
@@fredio54 Part 1. th-cam.com/video/Gta9GnIwdtg/w-d-xo.html Part 4. th-cam.com/video/oC_ao35UfR4/w-d-xo.html
You are going to crunch numbers on fuel burn, and it may, or not be the same as your Vevor unit. The question I have ,in seeing the the heat exchanger is clearly larger, how will you determine the volume of hot air out the discharge, bigger heat exchanger, clearly more volume of hot air 🤔
This is a very good point.... and I will likely go into a little more detail other than fuel consumption, but the "plan" is to show the max possible output. The "plan" is to set them both at the same fuel consumption and check exhaust temperatures. The 5kw, I assume will be higher.
The larger exchanger will be more efficient at 5hz than the smaller one, but as the demands increase, there will not really be any practical comparison.
To actually track efficiency would be pretty difficult. I would say the most practical way would be to heat a volume of water with the exhaust , capturing all of the heat possible so that room temp air was coming out, then calculate the energy required to raise the temp of the water and subtract that.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Would it be feasible to heat a certain size room, and compare the time it takes to get to a certain temperature. Also, another great video 🇨🇦
@@stevecarlisle3323 Yeah... I did think about that, but your results would be very ... unsure. If you heat up a room, you need to make sure that the outside temperature is consistent and the same for both tests. Heat loss out of a room is dependant on outside temps. If you can manage to do that, you also need the objects in the room to be the same temperature, as those objects will absorb heat faster when they are cold, slower when they are warm, and not at all if they are room temperature.
The testing would have to start with the room being held at say 10C over night, so that everything in the room was 10C. Perform your test and so the same thing the next day with the other heater and hope that your outside temp was stable and the same for both days.
I'm being picky, of course, but if you didn't do this, people would tear you apart in the comments, haha. I had a few people really upset about this when I replicated the heat going out in my house.... even though it made no sense in that case.
@@loweredexpectations4927 Well now that you put it that way, I will just let you figure it out, but they never put all that re engineering in that heat exchanger for nothing. Just have to wait for your scientific evaluation 😊
@@stevecarlisle3323 Haha... no ... I can 100% guarantee that it is more efficient / better at getting heat out of the combustion process and into your living space...
The only real questions for me are 1. How much more efficient is it when directly compared to a 5kw heater with both consuming the same amount of fuel, and 2. Will the larger size be efficient enough at transferring that extra heat, so that the larger heater will be more efficient at max heat output... I suspect the answer is "no"
If the heater consumes almost 50% more fuel, then it will make 50% more heat energy. Unless the exchanger is 50% larger (50% better at transferring heat, then the top end efficiency will be worse, despite it being able to make a lot more heat.
The exchanger housing measurements where intresting ???
Maybe 2 kwh stuff in a 8KW setup and vise versa ...
Yes... The extra length is interesting... I'm wondering if I extend the burn tube if it will add to the efficiency at all.
The big one running at 2kw is way more efficient. Instead of 300°C exhaust it drops by 100° or so
Yeah... I highly suspected this... I also suspect that at max heat setting, it will be much less efficient.
i got a all i one first day was good 2 days later fired it up and had to shut it down the house was full of fumes so i striped it down every thing was nice tite but did see metal gaskit not paper put it back in case same thing even check cleand the tank on the out side ,i dont know if it was blow back thro the Exhaust thro the wall idk i have seen plp use rtv on the gaskit and round the top of the glow plug they say it works carnt try it out till payday i have it on right now and now n then a big woft of fumes ,any one got any ideas
Hello David.
Fist off, the heater shouldn't make any fumes once it is running. A little on start up and shut down, but that's it.
I don't know how your heater is installed, so there are a lot of possibilities.
Is your heater installed inside withe the exhaust running out, or outside with the heat being plumbed in ?
Are you recirculating air from inside the house, or are you pulling in fresh air from outside ?
If the heater is running well, the gaskets do almost nothing and this is almost certainly not your problem. If the glow plug boot leaks, the air is fresh air ... combustion doesn't happen in the fan inlet area.
If the heater is working poorly, sputterint, making a lot of smoke or backfiring, then some smoke may come out the glow plug or fuel line plugs. If this is the case, you need to address the working issues, not seal it up better.
Chances are there is something about your install that isn't ideal.
@@loweredexpectations4927 iv try it side withe air pip out side iv tryd it out side with just the hot air pip comig in its the same i eve got a 2 m Exhaust thinking that was it but no my carbon mon tester will blink for 1 sec sying move to fresh air put the alarm duz not go off iv sent the seller a dm see what they say
Vevor Diesel Heater Herz
Normal modus
H1=2,0Hz
H2=2,7Hz
H3=3,4Hz
H4=4,1Hz
H5=4,9Hz
H6=5,1Hz
Mountain mode
H1=1,6Hz
H2=2,15Hz
H3=2,7Hz
H4=3,1Hz
H5=3,75Hz
H6=3,9Hz
What Vevor heater is this for ? That's quite the difference between normal and mountain mode... I have seen it before, but do you know at what elevation they recommend switching from one to the other ?
@@loweredexpectations4927 this is for the heaters with the blue displays. You have had same all in one heater last winter in your videos. I don't know for sure at what elevation vevor recommends the alpine mode. I live at an altitude of 420 meters above sea level and I run both of my heaters on alpine mode H2 with the 28ml pump. It saves fuel as well. I run my heaters 24/7 round about 80-90 days a year on level H1 or H2 alpine mode. It depends on how cold it's outside. The annually fuel consumption is about 750-800 litres for those 80 days. My garage has a constant temperature 🌡 of 14-15°C.
@@roastntoast7550 Thanks ! I'm at about 1000M but with a 22ml pump. I sometimes run in one mode, and sometimes in the other.
lol all these heaters came from the same manufacturer with different configurations and name badges. It’s like a clone factory trying to hide the clones’ true identity 😂
Yeah, that's probably not too far from the truth. I'm sure there are a few different factories pumping these things out, but obviously Vevor and Max don't actually manufacturer heaters.
If your waste oil is synthetic or not worn out it will be harder to burn. Automotive mineral oils that have done 6000 miles are typically much thinner, with the long chain hydrocarbons broekn down by sheer in the bores and bearings. Synthetic (PAO/Ester) oil does not sheer.
I have tried new engine oil in one of my tests... Fresh Motul oil, and it was much harder to ignite. The end result was just about the same as far as ash left behind, but it really did not want to burn.
One of the oils that I used was a semi synthetic... I believe. My memory is foggy. Either way, I have found that any engine oil takes a lot of heat to flash off. Once it does, you can get it to burn pretty clean, but it will leave ash behind.
The ash, in these little heaters (in stock configuration) becomes an issue very quickly. The design of the chamber means that any crud built up disturbs air flow, and that causes things to quickly spiral out of control.
@@loweredexpectations4927 good job testing new - I just can't imagine lawn mowers stressing the oil very much - most likely it just gets dirty - but any degree of wear on the oil would result in easier burning through lower viscosity, lower point of evaporation, and easier to consume molucules. Brand is not important. Group 3 hydrocracked mineral oil is often called "synthetic" or "full synthetic" and is MUCH better than ordinary mineral but not as good as PAO/Ester genuine synthetic. I'm not sure how sheer resistant those processed molecules are or are not. PAO/Ester oil will be shit to burn new or used, approximately the same :-D ATF is usually harder to burn too as it's a higher grade of oil generally, and also has a lot of additives.
As for the ash, the ash is mineral components. By the white look of yours I'm assuming zinc oxide is a big part of it - since zinc compounds are a common anti wear additive in motoroils (good ones, at least). Ash is unavoidable when using these types of lubricants so I guess the only really viable approach is periodic cleaning.
@@fredio54 Yeah... I try to tell people all the time. Car engines need oil changes because they wear the oil out. Utility engines need oil changes because the oil gets dirty.
Modern engines run pretty clean and the oil gets broken down from heat and shear forces. A Briggs & Stratton engine, Honda, Kohler etc, put a lot of carbon, combustion byproducts and partly burnt fuel, into the oil. It's like taking a glass of wine and throwing a handful of dirt in it... the wine might be fine, and it might be the best wine available, but it's still crap with dirt in it, haha. (in my opinion all wine is crap tho)
So you're saying that ATF has a lot of additives and is hard to burn ... Interesting. I've had a few people tell me that they burn it wich success... but I've had a lot of people tell me all sorts of incorrect things, haha.
Yeah... I assume that some of the ash is from additives... I'm interested to know what percent is from additives. I have talked to a bunch of heavy boiler techs who say that they develop a lot of ash, and that heavy fuel oil would not have those sorts of additives.
So that's the only difference is a slightly bigger heat exchanger wow that's crazy but yes that is good for parts
Yes... the slightly larger heat exchanger and also the plastic cases.
I have this unit, can anyone tell me if its tunable at all?? Instructions dont even say anything about priming it lol
That exhaust pipe isn't great I've seen it on webasto heaters that I've pulled off mini buses to be fair they were between 5 and 10 years old but it fell apart as soon as I tried to remove it and the older one's had already split
Yeah... I think once you heat cycle any thing stainless like that, it's going to get brittle. I had the same thing happen to my seam welded stuff, but it has been red hot several times.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I used old gas fire chimney liners that are pretty much the same for my big oil burners and before I used a oil 🛢 to take out a lot of the heat the liner would often get cherry red and not last long have you seen th-cam.com/video/ElVDjFO--7U/w-d-xo.htmlsi=KCSQ5R_marxisVZm
Is it advertised as an 8kw as they always seem to have you believe they are more powerful than they actually are like you know, If it is advertised as an 8kw thats strange as I would have thought they would have advertised it as a 9kw or 10kw..
Haha.... Yes... I assume that it is in fact actually about 7kw (of fuel consumed) so that's why they call it an 8.
@@loweredexpectations4927 just like my quad has a 475cc engine but they call it a 500.
@@kirkwalsh1932 Yeah. 5L Mustang isn't a 5L either, haha. The numbers sound better, it's not always about trying to trick people.
I have that heater, it sucks, it would be better if the air blew harder
Interesting... what do you mean by "it sucks" ... I have noticed a problem with mine, but assume that it is because of my elevation. 3500ft .
@loweredexpectations4927 what I mean is I expect the air movement to be the same as the LF bros 5Kw heater, it to has a 90mm output hood and it has alot more air movement producing more of a heat output.
@@madtom87tom I have this large body heater and at sea lvl I'm at a running temp of 215-220C. If you take the intake cover off, it moves a ton of air, dropping the running temp of the body down around 180C. But I'm testing in my shop where it was -10C outside and 10C inside. I have added propane to the combustion air intake and I've had the heater running around 240-250C. I have 2 videos of this heater taking propane.
@kirkwalsh1932 definitely right about taking the inlet grill off, but my LF bros n3 pro heater definitely still puts out way more air movement on the highest setting. I also checked temperatures coming out and have to give the win to LF bros. I'm not sure if many people know about them that are new to the American market, but they seem to be a better built unit. It also coast more. I paid 500 for it.
@@madtom87tom I saw those, but aren't in my current budget. I'd really like to find a brushless motor that would match these. Is the air intake on the other one 75mm or is it bigger?
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but do the math on the input vs output and you’ll see that is just a 5kw
Check the fuel use and do the math
This is true on most of these heaters, however, this one claims to consume .7l/h ... I have done some preliminary testing and can say that it consumes a LOT more than. Rough numbers indicate over 20% more.
You wanting to tear that apart is not the reason I think you're weird. That will make you think. lol.
HAHA !! There are plenty of other reasons, eh... Just not that !
I have a genuine webasto airtop evo 5500 (5,5kw) and an airtop 2000s. The 3,5kw and 5,5kw webasto have the same body size. The 5,5 has a 65ml Pump 3x than my 2 chinese 5kw heater (22ml pump). The Webasto 5,5 is A LOT bigger, a lot quiter . if somebody gave me a webasto 5,5kw without the covers and a chinese 5/8kw body and told to compare them by guessing. i would guess that the webasto 5,5 has at least 8kw. i didnt do the math but i trust webasto when they say its 5,5kw so i dont think that the chinese ones make even 4kw. having 1/3 of the pump i would guess somewhat about 2-3 kw
What are the Herz of the WEBASTO on max. Level?
@@roastntoast7550 i have to Check tomorrow evening if i can Look this up in the Webasto Diagnostic Tool
@@roastntoast7550 i think ist pretty low because it is also a lot quiter Even tho it iş a Chinese copy Pump not a genuine webasto Pump
@@roastntoast7550 the webasto has 975+ Hours on the Clock
@@martmccars166 the original WEBASTO heaters have a very quiet pump as well.
WEBASTO are very good heaters. But what you shouldn't forget is that you get 25 Chinese diesel heaters for one WEBASTO! 🤗
i dont care about the green line. i even using medical infusion line i got for free 🤣
Haha... Free is better than cheap !
10,000 RPM fan means more heat right? Muhahahaha
Nope Sir. The calorific value of diesel is always the same at 9.8 kWh per liter.🤗
Haha... It is possible to spin the fan faster and add more fuel to make more heat... At some point the efficiency of the can will decrease due to the inlet and exhaust restrictions.
Not sure if this is what you meant or not, but with diesel, running it lean actually causes it to cool off and make less power, unlike gasoline and other fuels.
I do plan on juicing one of mine up at the end of the season to see what happens.
I will assume that he meant fuel and air but yes... if the fuel is not there, you don't get the energy.
My comment was meant purely as a joke, I mean 10k RPM should have let ya all know I was kidding around, lol...plus I tend to comment to help the channel grow, so I say goofy stuff at times.
@@HostileHST Gotcha buddy ! 👌
OMG the green fuel line...you clearly don't know anything. Please get a table and sit behind it.duh......
🤣 I love it. Thank you ! haha.
It is for testing purposes... I'm almost certainly going to make the heater fail by taking things to the extreme, and then I will have a bunch of poeple saying "see, we tried to tell you"
I'm curious what the temp difference is at the combustion exhaust ports, my guess is
I am going to try to remember to check this ... the tricky part will be to set them both to the same heat output... I have already checked the 5kw for a video that will be released tomorrow (16 feet of exhaust) haha....
It has been 2 months now where are the heat tests ?
I went through a separation and had to buy out my x and remortgage my house... I've been busy doing other things.