Robin this is how we do it here in Australia. Firstly, drill as bid a hole in the studs as possible, 10mm cable = 50mm hole. Destroy as much of the stud as possible. Secondly, Fit out as many rooms as possible on the one circuit breaker. This gives the home owner exercise walking to the fuse box ever half hour. Thirdly, don’t use any mounting brackets, just screw straight into the plaster. This way you can make more money in 6 months time when they call you back to fix everything.
I love the forward planning and co operation between trades makes the end product pukka. Be great to see a video on what type of led lighting you going to install.
I just discovered your channel, I love the way you work, awesome. Your long experience can be seen on the clarity and perfect work you do. Massive thanks!
I guess they are 50mm deep and RCD protected but yeah good point. It would be interesting what others would say but it's not a domestic where it's chased in and a coat of plaster just to cover it, thought I will add.
Yes I agree. They don’t look like they are in a zone. That’s a lot of trust you are putting in a 50mm measurement. Especially as there is a kitchen going there.
Exactly what I was going to say. Also, the amount of cables going into that single back box, it's going to be difficult terminating that. Finally, not that it matters but white T&E is LS0H which is used when the cable is exposed. Robin always talks about saving money so using regular grey T&E would have saved a bit of money
A going to make the same comment , majority of those cables are not in the wiring zones ,if run outside the zones need to be in wall deeper than 50mm , (where it’s going through studs wouldn’t be the case), armoured or run in an earthed conduit system , also some of the cables coming into the knock outs in the boxes might be trapped against boxes when it’s plaster boarded ? And where run against ceiling insulation if that contains any form of polystyrene material it will react with the pvc and overtime turn to mush
Hello Colin, I love your cake. 😃 I would be very interested in the 2nd fix Robin, after all it's part of the finishing and what makes the finished article.
I'd be interested in seeing more electrical and plumbing as it interfaces with the carpentry, both 1st and 2nd fix...Would add to the channel on this particular series. Colin appears to be vertically challenged like yourself, so you can see eye to eye with him....😆😆😆😆
Robin, I'd be interested in anything you'd show us; really enjoy watching you work, and have learnt a lot already. Even been able to apply it in my own work from time to time.
Hi Robin, I come from a furniture making and technical draughtsman background. I have found what you doing inspiring. I think for my property renovation I could be the competent joiner and also carry out some of the 1st fix electrical as you have done. The electric plan design is a bit tricky. For the kitchen dinner I'm planning on put 25mm battens on the party wall and incorporate 25mm sound insulation. Also this false wall will save a lot of chasing out as cables can run behind. Do you know if the cabling can run directly behind the plasterboard? I would have to notch or drill the 25mm battens which doesn't leave much timber. I didn't want to increase to 50mm void as it affects windows etc. Do electrician's normally prefer to do all their own 1st and 2nd fix? As you said the prep work is quite simple. Thanks for the video.
Hi Robin. Great carpentry job. I've learn loads from it. Just a quick question. Was the work in the UK. Looking at the cable runs, most of them don't seem to be within the wiring zones as per BS7671 electrical regs. Also only new builds need to have sockets/switches etc.. to within set heights. An electrical on site guide is worth having for all trades. Not being picky, just giving you the heads up as a sparky.
In our situation we have more than 50mm from the final wall surface to the cables, so this means we can run the cables to areas other than the permitted zones when using a thinner overall partition
Quick question if you don't mind Robin/Colin, how come the cable is white rather than the usual grey? Or is it just that it's white rather than grey? Or is this the Americans creeping in with different coloured cakes for different power levels? Thanks
Awfull lot of cables going into that switch box i think i counted 7 its going to very busy in that box personally i would have used either a duel box or a 47mm box. Wiring zones a bit suspect.
There are guidelines about zoning in stud walls and they relate to specific distances from the eventual wall surfaces etc, we are in perfect zoned areas as per regs, but I am happy to learn if I have missed something, what is your take on the rules about the zones?
@@ukconstruction you can get away with the horizontal wiring due to the 50mm depth but the wiring zone between points would be better keeping to the horizontal vertical scheme as this is what is in the majority of people recognize. Think of the next person to work in that building they will not know where your cables run even though your cables are 50mm deep the cables between point are 150mm ish above the horizontal a person not knowing this could drill into the cable thinking that the original cable ran horizontally or vertically between points. Hope this makes sence. In fact if i would recommend butting protection plates over every stud just as extra protection. Hope this makes sence.
See my comment about wiring zones where somebody else has asked about it , cables should be run horizontally or vertically where the accessories are mounted
No good being 50mm from the surface when the next person comes along and wacks a few 70mm coach screws in to the studs for their cantilever desk/floating AV cabinet/etc and finds their electrics keep tripping off afterwards (or worse).
I am an electrician watching your carpentry skills and must say it's a nice job Colin has done. Keep them coming.
Thanks Alex, I will pass on your compliment!!
Yeah I’d like to see a bit more of other trades too. Obviously it’s a chippy channel but other trades means added value. 👍
Robin this is how we do it here in Australia.
Firstly,
drill as bid a hole in the studs as possible, 10mm cable = 50mm hole. Destroy as much of the stud as possible.
Secondly,
Fit out as many rooms as possible on the one circuit breaker. This gives the home owner exercise walking to the fuse box ever half hour.
Thirdly, don’t use any mounting brackets, just screw straight into the plaster. This way you can make more money in 6 months time when they call you back to fix everything.
welcome colin you are part of a great team producing quality workmanship
I'd certainly wish to see the 2nd fix electrical installation... Great job as always Robin.
Yeah would love to see more your’s and Colin’s sparkle work.
Beautiful thought through.
Robin working alongside Colin.
I bet it will look amazing when complete
Good to meet Colin. Great job
I love the forward planning and co operation between trades makes the end product pukka.
Be great to see a video on what type of led lighting you going to install.
cool info, thanks. Good to see you Colin looking forward to seeing you in action
Take care guys
Hi, awesome work and great to meet Colin and yes I'm definitely interested in the sparky second fix phase so please show a video on that! Thanks Gav
Good work guys. Looks sensational 👌
Omg Colin doesn't age!!! Great video keep up the amazing work guys 👍
Hi Adam!!!!!!!
I just discovered your channel, I love the way you work, awesome.
Your long experience can be seen on the clarity and perfect work you do.
Massive thanks!
You are welcome Mugurel!!!
Surely those horizontal cable runs at 2:21 are out of zone or am I missing something? Otherwise looking good.
I guess they are 50mm deep and RCD protected but yeah good point. It would be interesting what others would say but it's not a domestic where it's chased in and a coat of plaster just to cover it, thought I will add.
Yes I agree. They don’t look like they are in a zone. That’s a lot of trust you are putting in a 50mm measurement. Especially as there is a kitchen going there.
I was thinking the same! Best to stick to the zones and not rely on being 50mm from surface as its just a headache if a cable does get hit!
Exactly what I was going to say. Also, the amount of cables going into that single back box, it's going to be difficult terminating that. Finally, not that it matters but white T&E is LS0H which is used when the cable is exposed. Robin always talks about saving money so using regular grey T&E would have saved a bit of money
A going to make the same comment , majority of those cables are not in the wiring zones ,if run outside the zones need to be in wall deeper than 50mm , (where it’s going through studs wouldn’t be the case), armoured or run in an earthed conduit system , also some of the cables coming into the knock outs in the boxes might be trapped against boxes when it’s plaster boarded ? And where run against ceiling insulation if that contains any form of polystyrene material it will react with the pvc and overtime turn to mush
The running of the electrics are very nice I just wish sparkes in Australia did as good a job, all run at angles and just a that will do job
Hello Colin, I love your cake. 😃 I would be very interested in the 2nd fix Robin, after all it's part of the finishing and what makes the finished article.
Interested. Great job, so much planning!
I'd be interested in seeing more electrical and plumbing as it interfaces with the carpentry, both 1st and 2nd fix...Would add to the channel on this particular series. Colin appears to be vertically challenged like yourself, so you can see eye to eye with him....😆😆😆😆
Robin, I'd be interested in anything you'd show us; really enjoy watching you work, and have learnt a lot already. Even been able to apply it in my own work from time to time.
Hi Robin, I come from a furniture making and technical draughtsman background. I have found what you doing inspiring. I think for my property renovation I could be the competent joiner and also carry out some of the 1st fix electrical as you have done. The electric plan design is a bit tricky. For the kitchen dinner I'm planning on put 25mm battens on the party wall and incorporate 25mm sound insulation. Also this false wall will save a lot of chasing out as cables can run behind. Do you know if the cabling can run directly behind the plasterboard? I would have to notch or drill the 25mm battens which doesn't leave much timber. I didn't want to increase to 50mm void as it affects windows etc. Do electrician's normally prefer to do all their own 1st and 2nd fix? As you said the prep work is quite simple. Thanks for the video.
Colin the silent legend
Hi Robin. Great carpentry job. I've learn loads from it. Just a quick question. Was the work in the UK. Looking at the cable runs, most of them don't seem to be within the wiring zones as per BS7671 electrical regs. Also only new builds need to have sockets/switches etc.. to within set heights.
An electrical on site guide is worth having for all trades.
Not being picky, just giving you the heads up as a sparky.
In our situation we have more than 50mm from the final wall surface to the cables, so this means we can run the cables to areas other than the permitted zones when using a thinner overall partition
Hi Colin 👍
Need an Ed and Colin side by side
good people
Rob, does Colin look up to you?
Quick question if you don't mind Robin/Colin, how come the cable is white rather than the usual grey?
Or is it just that it's white rather than grey?
Or is this the Americans creeping in with different coloured cakes for different power levels?
Thanks
white twin & earth used to mean that a DIYer bought it from Wickes. Now it means it's a Low Smoke pvc jacket
I'd imagine they're LSF cables (low smoke)
Once again, all this meticulous work is destined to disappear behind the wall board. (Gone but not forgotten.)
👍
Garden mansion
Awfull lot of cables going into that switch box i think i counted 7 its going to very busy in that box personally i would have used either a duel box or a 47mm box. Wiring zones a bit suspect.
There are guidelines about zoning in stud walls and they relate to specific distances from the eventual wall surfaces etc, we are in perfect zoned areas as per regs, but I am happy to learn if I have missed something, what is your take on the rules about the zones?
@@ukconstruction you can get away with the horizontal wiring due to the 50mm depth but the wiring zone between points would be better keeping to the horizontal vertical scheme as this is what is in the majority of people recognize. Think of the next person to work in that building they will not know where your cables run even though your cables are 50mm deep the cables between point are 150mm ish above the horizontal a person not knowing this could drill into the cable thinking that the original cable ran horizontally or vertically between points. Hope this makes sence. In fact if i would recommend butting protection plates over every stud just as extra protection. Hope this makes sence.
See my comment about wiring zones where somebody else has asked about it , cables should be run horizontally or vertically where the accessories are mounted
No good being 50mm from the surface when the next person comes along and wacks a few 70mm coach screws in to the studs for their cantilever desk/floating AV cabinet/etc and finds their electrics keep tripping off afterwards (or worse).
@@_Steven_S hence the wiring zones. But unfortunately the man in the street probably wouldn't know about wiring zones.
jobs a goodun
Electrics! And you didn’t call me?? 🥹😂😂
Well Ryan.... you do share the same surname!!! Maybe come down for a collab when we are doing more leccy!!