Very interesting. I am in the process of learning to operate a couple of Okumas. My question pertains to the tool correction values. One of the machines (LB35) has has a tool setting arm but I've been told it's out of order. The way they have been doing it so far is the 'master tool' method as I understand it where tool no.1 is an outside roughing tool which gets assigned a Z value of '0'. The other tools are then touched off I guess from the skimmed surface and their values entered. I am wondering: if the tool setter is used, which value does it produce for Z? Second, do you think the 'master tool' method is viable in general? One problem I see is that when the master tool would be pushed off its value all the other tools are affected, second, I think 'all tools are created equal' so a fixed machine reference plane would make much more sense to me. Furthermore, the LB35 is equipped with QC tools which I guess could be preset outside of the machine although I don't know if that is even a thing with CNC lathes especially of this vintage. Hope this makes sense and it would be great if you as an expert could shed some light. Thanks and all the best from Holland.
You can still get good results closing the jaws on themself. Especially for first OP setups. But for second OP setups its always best to preload the jaws in the clamping direction in which they will close on the part via a plug or limit ring of some fashion. You will get the best concentricity this way.
when you hit the auto button for speeds and feeds, where in control do you enter parameters for that? have t2 control dumped parameters and i have not figured out how to fix thanks
I'm using a Sandvik boring bar with a TPGM31 insert. 93 degree first angle and 60 degree second angle. You can also use DCMT or VBMT tools for boring jaws and do necking.
The way I do my jaws is bore the hole in the jaws .050 to .100 bigger than the plug with the chuck all the way open. Then reverse the clamping direction and chuck on the plug and bore the jaws. I probably didn't explain that very well in the video.
not getting that business how the angle of the insert determines what path the cutter takes. I just needs to go straight in no matter what the angle. Too much rub then not the right insert. Confused.
If the first angle is not 93 degrees in the tool description, the machine will not cut a 90 degree flat bottom in the jaws. Put in 90 degrees on first angle and you will have a 3 degree taper on the bottom of the jaws.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 That is 3 degrees of clearance on the on the tool so it doesn't rube when facing a shoulder in the bore. why would the machine want to taper the bottom of the jaws?
@@joeshmoe5935 The machine is programmed to need 3 degrees of clearance on the front and back of the tool. If you want a 90 degree bottom, you need to tell the machine you have a tool with a minimum 93 degree lead angle. This is how the machine is programmed to behave based on the tool description for all Mazatrol processes.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 ok, so as long as the machine thinks the tool has clearance then it gives a flat bottom if not, it tapers towards the center of the bore? Tapering towards the center of a bore with a tool that has no clearance/relief still induces rub. Now OTOH if you were starting from teh center and going towards the bores interior side wall making that taper, then I see how that 3 degree taper saves the tool from rubbing and chattering on the bottom.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
The more I see of Mazatrol the more I appreciate the simplicity and user freedom of HAAS
As someone who has never run a Mazak thanks for showing this. Charles
You're welcome.
Very interesting. I am in the process of learning to operate a couple of Okumas. My question pertains to the tool correction values. One of the machines (LB35) has has a tool setting arm but I've been told it's out of order. The way they have been doing it so far is the 'master tool' method as I understand it where tool no.1 is an outside roughing tool which gets assigned a Z value of '0'. The other tools are then touched off I guess from the skimmed surface and their values entered. I am wondering: if the tool setter is used, which value does it produce for Z? Second, do you think the 'master tool' method is viable in general? One problem I see is that when the master tool would be pushed off its value all the other tools are affected, second, I think 'all tools are created equal' so a fixed machine reference plane would make much more sense to me. Furthermore, the LB35 is equipped with QC tools which I guess could be preset outside of the machine although I don't know if that is even a thing with CNC lathes especially of this vintage. Hope this makes sense and it would be great if you as an expert could shed some light. Thanks and all the best from Holland.
very nice videos for learning . Thanks
love your chanel so much!!!
you should start dubbing over your own voice haha that would be hilarious
When you need to bore right through the jaws for a job ,you can now longer clamp on a plug .How do you get around this ?
Do you use a boring ring ?
Yes, I use a boring ring. I machine a face groove in the jaws to accept the boring ring.
Can you tell us what type of tool and inserts. Shape etc. Thanks.
I likeyour video
This was a triangle insert.
You can do it with any boring bar and insert type if its gonna fit to desired jaws shape.
i don't chuck on plugs when making soft jaws is that bad? i always thought it was for manual machining then you use boring ring or plugs etc
You can still get good results closing the jaws on themself. Especially for first OP setups. But for second OP setups its always best to preload the jaws in the clamping direction in which they will close on the part via a plug or limit ring of some fashion. You will get the best concentricity this way.
when you hit the auto button for speeds and feeds, where in control do you enter parameters for that? have t2 control dumped parameters and i have not figured out how to fix
thanks
You enter the cutting speeds and feeds you want on the cutting conditions page just off the main menu.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 thanks
What tool/insert do you use to allow the necking?
I'm using a Sandvik boring bar with a TPGM31 insert. 93 degree first angle and 60 degree second angle. You can also use DCMT or VBMT tools for boring jaws and do necking.
Do you set the chuck to mid stroke?
The way I do my jaws is bore the hole in the jaws .050 to .100 bigger than the plug with the chuck all the way open. Then reverse the clamping direction and chuck on the plug and bore the jaws. I probably didn't explain that very well in the video.
plese make a video edit tool file, shape tools, please
Thanks for the suggestion.
not getting that business how the angle of the insert determines what path the cutter takes. I just needs to go straight in no matter what the angle. Too much rub then not the right insert. Confused.
If the first angle is not 93 degrees in the tool description, the machine will not cut a 90 degree flat bottom in the jaws. Put in 90 degrees on first angle and you will have a 3 degree taper on the bottom of the jaws.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 That is 3 degrees of clearance on the on the tool so it doesn't rube when facing a shoulder in the bore. why would the machine want to taper the bottom of the jaws?
@@joeshmoe5935 The machine is programmed to need 3 degrees of clearance on the front and back of the tool. If you want a 90 degree bottom, you need to tell the machine you have a tool with a minimum 93 degree lead angle. This is how the machine is programmed to behave based on the tool description for all Mazatrol processes.
@@mazatroltipsandtricks6816 ok, so as long as the machine thinks the tool has clearance then it gives a flat bottom if not, it tapers towards the center of the bore? Tapering towards the center of a bore with a tool that has no clearance/relief still induces rub. Now OTOH if you were starting from teh center and going towards the bores interior side wall making that taper, then I see how that 3 degree taper saves the tool from rubbing and chattering on the bottom.
@@joeshmoe5935 Yep. Mazatrol does a whole lot more than just bore jaws.