Use Gesso as Primer for 3D parts
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ต.ค. 2021
- My process of using applying and sanding Gesso on 3D parts. I prime coat a foam urethane mock up with Gesso.
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Thank you so much for this! I’m a costumer who moved to a condo with no outdoor space or balcony. I’ve been slowly replacing my “toxic” products with indoor-safe solutions. Your video made me breathe a sigh of relief!!!
Man. That was awesome! Ive been looking for info on this for a while and you're the first guy to break it down. Totally different application, but exactly what i was looking for. Thank you so much!!
From the title, before watching the video, I assumed the Gesso would go on top of 3D 'printed' parts. It's not what you meant but I will explore the idea just in case it can fill the gaps between the layers.
You can do it, I've personally done it. However if it's something you want a supreme finish on (all layer hidden) I would start with filler first - then move to gesso for smoother final layers to kinda level out before you sand.
@@UnvarnishedTarnished Thank you for the additional info. It sounds promising.
LOL. I misread the title the same exact way. Regardless, It got me thinking along those lines. Plus the use of a dehydrator to more quickly dry parts is super clever. That's definitely a trick i'll have to put in my toolbox... once i get a dehydrator. ;D
@@UnvarnishedTarnished What is your favorite filler if there is too much texture to start with gesso?? Great video!
@@nccyr1 I like to use white Tamiya putty for this on parts of my models. It's got a finer grit than standard wood filler and spreads nicely.
Just found you. Im not a designer, i just screw around maling stuff in my garage. Your channel is pure gold
I love the pure amusement in your voice as the ink gets messed up. 🤣
Me too
I wish I can one day get into that happily-failing-zone of making things 😄
It sounds much nicer than chucking a wrecked aluminum part or a messed up sewing project into the nearest corner and be mad about it for a week straight 🤣
Once you accept failing, a better Jedi you will become
Mod-Podge works well if you want a glossy surface.
Always learn something from your videos, Eric. Nicely done. Rock On.
I like to start by filling the surfce with mica powder. Wiped on with fingers, it wipes off the highs and fills the lows. Wetted with paint, the powder wicks paint into the pores, binding the powder. Gives a big jump on smoothing the surface.
Smooth-On sells mica powder as one of their urefil fillers. It"s the one for wood grain effects.
I work with gesso and the trick is to lay a coat down and then do a sand....leave the residue on there and then wet sand it...this should smooth it out for the first coat...after that you could do two more coats and just repeat the process...I get great results with this method!
Liquitex spray varnish. Matte and gloss versions. Waterbased, low odor rattle cans.
Sweet, gonna check it out, thanks
Looks great! I've used wood glue/PVA glue to coat pink foam for cosplay projects, it makes a nice smooth finish and prevents your parts from being dissolved by spray paint. You can also water it down in order to get thinner coats for extra nice smoothing if needed.
@ 1:10 drill press machining, mind blown. Never seen that before.
Using gesso you have to treated as a canvas prep. You need to sand it between costs for a more smoother surface without using a lot of layers. Love the ergonomical way the phone charger looks! 🥰
I worked a lot with foam and to get a smooth surface that can handle paint the best i found was white PVA glue, much cheaper than gesso dry faster and build up in less coat.
As a topcoat i recently had the same experience as you showed, had a logo artworks on a piece made with acrylic paint, then wanted to add a PU clearcoat and the PU varnish washed the acrylic paint away.
The magic solution to almost all layer compatibility is shellac, it's not water based but the solvant is just pure alcool (the one i buy is made of distilled pears) so it does smell but it's not toxic and i must admit although i never drink alcool i love that smell ;c)
It's not as durable as PU as a topcoat but enough in lot cases and it can be applied as a fixating coat before a PU topcoat for more durability.
Hey, Eric. Your lighting is pretty nice. Good content too.
Thanks for the tips. Yes, that 2K primer is hard to source in the UK (at least when I've tried), PPE and spray booth not being the problem.
There’s always Pre-Val spray bottles, or pump sprayer containers from beauty supply stores, like Sally Beauty Supply!
excellent video, I love that you show the possible errors and imponderables that can occur. I suggest you as a base after "spraying" with the toothbrush, hairspray, then you can paint with polyvinyl and it will not drag anything. There is also a product that is used in art and that is shellac, excellent as a natural varnish.
Thanks, good tip
I will have to try that. Badger also makes a water-based micro-filler primer that works great as well.
Okay
Would love to see you make video on making professional looking prototype on a budget. Also, any recommendations on painting projects if you're short on time?
Liquidex makes an acrylic varnish with gloss, matt and satin. That work for your water clean able system.
Cool
we used to use Future floor varnish for top coat. It will not yellow out. for display, modeling paints are the best way to go. AV makes some really good paints these days.
also for displays you can use drywall putty to fill the pin holes first then gesso. It will speed up your process.
Modelling Putty is by far my most preferred method. I am not sure if anyone has made one thats not nasty.
Modelling colors are all acrilic waterbased. GW used to have a so called "hardcot" that was a clear coat to brush on. They changed colors line quite some times since that but they should still have some clear coat.
i feel FoamIt-8 is great for the PU core. small and uniform bubbles
Dude I love your videos. I've been into this kind of stuff for hobby for so long. Another potential is Kwik Seal if the layer lines or defects are bigger.
Thanks man
Nice video. For regular painting I use vallejo premium acrylic polyurethane water-based matt varnish, I think you might find also glossy. You could use airbrush or a brush.
Thabks
What about using drywall filler to fill in the foam? Can thin it with water. Found that out when we had some old stuff, added too much water and kept on running out down the wall.
Hey Eric, I have used plaster on Dom and it’s nice as well!
Ok, interesting
This reminds me of my days as an industrial design student making visual models of my design plates! We would use body filler to smooth out the PU foam after carving it (though I later switched to non-sag marine epoxy that I'd roll thin and apply like a fondant on a cake) then apply the primer.
Speaking of water-based top coats, I once experimented with using pure acrylic emulsion as the top coat. It resulted in a decent clear finish after being painted, but it resulted in a glossy finish. I unfortunately had to sand/scrape it off, since I was aiming for a matted finish. Maybe you can try that when going for glossy finishes.
To mattify the finish after applying the clear coat you mention, perhaps dust it with a translucent matte powder of the kind used for make-up to "fix" and remove shine from human faces?
@@twiglingtwigling I did not know there was such a thing! Thank you for this tidbit of information!
Water based polyurethane (WBPU) sprays quite nicely when thinned slightly or with the air pressure cranked up a bit with either a modeler's airbrush or HVLP gun. I prefer Varathane brand of WBPU over Minwax, been using it for years.
Zinsser makes a water based primer/sealer that works OK (Bullseye 1-2-3), but I do prefer the shellac based BIN primer sealer if I can work in a well ventilated area.
Good content - probably best for modeling on PLA type printed parts. Resin printed stuff is usually so clean in detail that I don't think you will need gesso for refinement.
In Germany we have "Maston Zero Eco" - its water based and marketed as the worlds 1st solvent free spray paint
For the stone finish, could you perhaps have mixed pigment or dye into the final coats of gesso, also creating some pitting that could be backfilled with pigmented gesso instead of just applied on top? I recently bought a refillable aerosol can on eBay but electric pump did not have enough oomph to bring it past 7 bar, most commercial spray cans are 10 bar. For top coat what about self-leveling resin eg ArtResin or any of the new bio epoxy products (ecopoxy, entropyresin etc)?
Ive seen a few things done in paste wax as a top coat. Not sure if it works on urethane.
Great video! I prefer to use SEM High Build primer. You should give it a shot.
Is it eco friendly, water based?
@@EricStrebel It smells great!.. all jokes aside I only mentioned it because you were talking about using the 2k primer and I feel like it's a great alterative to 2k. You should give it a shot. I would be interested if you do come up with a good water based alternative.
Designs by Eric Strebel.
Music by Ludwig Göransson.
Mandalorian theme played by my son actually
Great video. Thanks. I am working on a project atm which I would really like to take to market. Could you do a video on your process please.
I have a lot of those already, check out the backpack hanger series
They have water based min wax poly..top coat. Get a high build primer water based you could be done in 1 maybe coats tops. Don't sand to 600 grit b4 primer coat makes it way to hard for primer to stick 80 maybe 120 grit then high build primer sand to 220 then 2 coat primer color matched to final sand to 320 apply 2 coats final color maybe 3 let cure 20 min apply final clear then let cure completely then wet sand up to. As high as you want but recommend mind 500 grit Polish with buffer or polishing wheel. Will take about same amount of time and will have a glass like finish
Have you tried this water based poly top coat?
Great video. Lesson learned, don't mix Rit with poly. Mahalo for sharing! : )
Lol, Right 👍😊
Hi Eric. Great video! Never thought of gesso. I use wood glue myself, the bonus is that it now has a good protective shell that you can sand, and is especially great if you are using foam that reacts to spray paints.
Good idea
have you try lefranc and bourgois flashe art paints? They are vinil based and matte finish.
No, are they aresol?
@@EricStrebel no, just regular vinil based paints that you can brush or airbrush
you could use hobby paints like vallejo. Their clear coats look like that same clear coat you used and you can brush it on without having the paint run. You would need to use the model color line since those are meant to be brushed. Some createx paints would work too and you could also use their UV clear coats but some of their paints are water based with some solvent , alcohols usually. From the createx side their stuff if strong enough for automotive use even though they are water based acrylics. oh also their autoborne sealers are sandable but are also water based and you can brush them. I normally use createx for priming and filling with all water based stuff but their primer after its cured abit can be used with lacquers or enamels as well.
Cool, thanks for sharing.
@@EricStrebel oh I should mention the autonorne sealer likes to start at around 600 grit but with sanding sponges you could get away with 300 grit.
I wondered about gesso, I use it a lot on cavasses that I use for airbrushing. Do you find it fills better that spray paint?
Eventually
amazing content!! what is the song riff at the end? it's bugging me that I can't remember it... thanks!!
It's the Mandalorian theme performed by Eric's son on electric guitar.
You should look in to model paints. Modern brands like Valejo and Wargaming paints have excellent color and are water based.
Can this be used for 3d printed parts too🤔?
Possibly
yes it works
I have been using UV resin from my other printer, as it is super easy to sand.
Interesting, looking for an eco friendly sulition
@@EricStrebel have you tried drywall joint compound? specifically M100 since I think it tries to be more eco friendly/non toxic/no vacs. It's really easy to work with, you can dry/wet sand it to really smooth finishes and it dries to a pretty hard density.
I have not tried that compound
♥♥♥ best
For MDF and foam projects, starting with watered down wood glue will help seal and toughen up the project in just a few coats and give a good layer for the primer to stick to. Will also reduce the amount of layers needed of the Gesso. I would also guess Modpodge would work as a topcaot as well as a sealer that can be tinted with acrylic paint.
Thanks good tip on the glue
i use Kilz Brand Primer and Gesso interchangably on many projects. Which ever is available on a given day.....
One way I prime my pieces without primer is to use plastic wood filler mixed with water (75/25). General good after two coats. 3 for 3d prints.
Good idea
Could this technique work on a 3D printed part?
Yes, I suppose it could
I appreciate the info here. Thanks for sharing your ideas, but why not use black acrylic paint instead of the dye? It probably wouldn't have reacted to the polycyclic.
Do you know of a rattle can black acrylic spray paint?
@@EricStrebel sorry, no. I was referring to Liquitex (the brand you used for the gesso I believe,. But to spatter it on like you did the Rit dye) sorry, not an answer to your actual question.
No worries, thanks for the follow up. Much appreciated
Hi Eric is it a kind of plaster? Because "gesso" is how we call "plaster" down here in Brazil. Gesso (Portuguese) = Plaster (English)
Have anyone tried to prime a porous surface like this urethane with PVA wood glue? Not the yellow one, the white one.
I thinks it is almost the same stuff like geso.
Great demonstration! I appreciate that you also show what does NOT work!
You could probably spray the gesso in a small air sprayer, It would almost nullify the need for sanding, almost.
I tried watering down the gesso to go through an airbrush, it did not work well.
Well, as you use artist supplies, you can keep on and use a water-based gouache varnish. It is usually friendly with any water-based dye or paint.
Does it come in a spray can?
you could have used future for the clear coat. dabbed on with a brush
To get rid of the acrylic you can use glue-based gesso. Not sure that's any more environmentally friendly though. It's certainly not vegan. *shrugs*
You might mix chalk and any binder of your choice as well, might work.
angelus
I use all the angelus acrylic product with my spray paint. works great. they have good clear coats
Does is come in a rattle can?
@@EricStrebel no, they come in small containers. You can use brush or use a thinner if you want to use an airbrush. They leather paint for shoes. Acrylic base. Very flexible and holds very well. Also comes with clear coats. Matte and gloss. I got mine from amazon. I use them for my shoes and die cast cars.
use pledge floar gloss
Yup, a few others have suggested that as well
You just don't use a water base top coat over a water base finish, not without some sort of catalyst that makes the finish waterproof. Same principle applies to screen printing. If the screen mask is water based, you use a solvent based ink. If the mask is solvent based, you use water based ink. Same reason you should use synthetic fiber brushes with water based paint and natural fiber (usually animal hair) brushes with solvent based paints. An alcohol based clear coat like Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Alcohol-Based Shellac ought to work over a water based finish without ruining it.
Thanks for the comments and support, much appreciated
Erm... A little late to the party here, but you can cut your gesso with acrylic inks and paints to give them some color, without compromising the material's properties. If you want to avoid desaturation of your colors, you can also get clear gesso, usually from the same suppliers you would be buying your normal white (or black...) gesso from.
why do u have to apply gesso so many times???
Gesso is thin and requires multiple layers to build up the surface so that it can be finished smooth.
@@EricStrebel thank u
This is a great time if you have a metric tonne of time to waste.
Would have taken more time and more effort to have just carved a rock from a local stream? or even a piece of soapstone? New Sub btw... like your content.
I liked your first mistake. Looks like a half-eaten popsicle.
My comments keep getting deleted. Y?
This one worked
Well all I was trying to do was mention trying Future Floor Polish as a clear coat or add to acrylic paint to help self level (look up Swanny). Or a version of mod podge as a clear coat. Also, could add food coloring or colored powders to the gesso or even that dye you used. Hope it helps.
Ok, good idea
"I'm using straight gesso here". Wow. I didn't expect homophobia there.
Lol, I get it now, funny
lol
Industrial what? 🤨
Designer!
6+ coats? Get a resin printer.
You're missing the point, plus, ditched my resin printer many many years ago, not worth the hassle and the mess.
Ali
Liquitex and Pebeo are two good brands for water based spray paints and varnish.
tldr; dabbing sponge with gesso is better than brushing.
I had to mention: you can lay that gesso down better if you dabbed that sponge brush on using the widest flat side of the sponge. Or use a sponge style roller. The idea is not only that you're cramming the gesso into the pits but more importantly the gesso is actually acrylic with gypsum or plaster-of-paris. The mineral additive is traditional and provides the tooth and absorbency. This pebbly mineral is so absorbent that it will cling to itself so much while drying that the dabbing action make the surface more "spongey"; that is to say you'll get a thicker and workable mineral surface at a faster rate than brushing. The molecular structure will be more spikey and you'll have more to sand down. Imagine a stack of tumbleweeds as compared to stacks of hay. I have primed so many artist cavases this way, then buff it with medium to light grit sanding sponges. You'll be able to buff it super smooth.
Liquitex also makes a CLEAR gesso that behaves the same way. It has particulate semi-translucent resin instead of the plaster-of-paris blend. As you can imagine, particulate resin behaves differently than plaster.
Ok