About 17 hours for the fridge. Also around 17 hours for the tv. About 24 hours for the laptop and router. About 4 hours for all plus some lighting. Thank you.
@@Username-e5l A modern tv doesn't really consume that much power. A laptop and router even less. The fridge does draw a large amount of power, but unless you left the door open, open it a lot or the fridge is in a bad shape it should run at intervals for short periods.
Nice real life practical test. One correction as I've been using LiFePO4 so some time now. I don't recommend bringing the level down to zero too often as it will affect the amount of life cycles over time. I have a large solar array and expect at least ten or more years from my Power Queens but I won't run them down more than 60%. I better get at least 6-8000 cycles out of them.
Should go down to at least 40- if not 30% for Max cycles not 60. But more important is just keeping them in an environment that has a stable temperature and adequate airflow/passive cooling. Along with charging them at as low a rate as is practical.
Yup, 50% more storage juice. I have at least 32 KW hours in lifepo4 at 48V with a 10,000 watt solar array outside. I initially purchased a few 5Ah tiny lifepos, studied them and learned enough to build two 15KW/Hr 300 pound, 48V batteries. For portable power stations I have literally lived off of the Bluetti AC200p for four flawless years straight. I gave it to my neighbor so he could learn about it after upgrading to the AC300 four stacker, B300's.
Thank you for this video Ray. I bought a Licciti battery box with 1,000 Watt inverter and 284 Ah Lifepo4 prismatic battery kit. I tested this last weekend with my traditional top freezer mount fridge and it went 30 hours and didn't get to 50% discharge. I only stopped using it since I still don't feel comfortable leaving it alone at home while we're away. I am watching your videos, David Poz, Will Prowse and many others as I have begun buying the parts for a 48 Volt system. I really wasn't sure whether to buy more Licciti battery boxes/power stations or go to a large system but finally decided to avoid spending more money on the small power stations.
You did a comparison with lead acid batteries which was great because I use those. These are the kind of questions I have always wanted answered but no DIYer or professional electrician have ever answered. Thanks for your elaborate tests. I have learned a lot from you
My first set up was with a sealed lead acid battery too. With led acid 1 rule of thumb is taking the aH on the battery and cut that in half for the true usable aH. My first battery was 112aH led acid and I'd only get about 55hours of constant power with it. It did charge very quickly though with 2 100w panels. About 3-4hours on a cloudy day
Fyi to the people who wanna know why the inverter (and technical all inverters and generators) are in VA (volt amps) and not Watts. This also explains why the AC kWh dont match up with the DC kWh, especially with the fridge. It is call power factor and it only affect AC power. It is to complicated to explain here but there is plenty of good videos and websites online that explain it. But all you really need to know is that kW is the usable output energy and kVA is the energy required from the power source ( generators or inverter). E.g. a 110w fridge on 110v would theoretically pull 1A. 110v × 1A = 110w but in reality, with a guesstimated power factor of 0.8 (changes depending on the type of load), it will pull 1.25A. 1A ÷ pf0.8 = 1.25A. This means the inverter sees 137.5VA (1.25A × 110v) while the fridge is still only physically using 110w of power. Its basically another form of power loss on top of your normal other losses but alot more complicated to get your head around.
Great explanation. Except for my growatt 3000... the 3000 specifies how many ac watts it can support. Ie usable energy. The documents also mention 3000 W. I just tested it and it turns off just when it goes over 3,000 ac watts( enough for two large appliances). However the victron multiplus 3000 only supports an output of 2400w of usable energy (Only enough for 1 large appliance)
yes the load on the inverter matters to rate the efficiency. A constant high draw load will be most efficient compared to a super low draw because the inverter has to be on longer doing the conversion from dc to ac for a longer time therefore consuming more of your battery into thin air.
Anything that will run off 12V should come directly from the battery. I have the same battery running twelve LED light strips about 16hrs a day, a router, phone and tablet 24hrs a day, and it uses about 40ah on average with the lights being the highest draw.
12 volt is the way to go. Eliminate the inverter except as needed. There is a company named PMMI Lighting out of Sweeny Texas that sells all 12volt lighting systems run from a Raspberry Pi module using ethernet routers and CAT 5/6 cable. Switches and lights are programmable via a Spreadsheet. There system is pretty sharp.
Great information. Eliminate the inverter where possible. There are 12v TVs, Refrigerators, Freezers and lighting systems. The appliances have come a long way in the last 15 years. Most TVs run off of far less than 12volt today.
@@shawnr771 I recently expanded my system so the 3,500w pure sine wave inverter now has to power my fridge and a cube freezer, hence it has to run all the time. But before that I only powered the inverter when needed. There's lots of stuff that will run off 12v with no inverter.
@@frankmaze1972 oh absolutely. I built a 12 volt system just to run lights, fans, a very small fridge and a tv set plus charge phones. You are far ahead of me. I live in Texas I want to build a cold room. Heavily insulated and cooled by a 12 volt AC for when the temps get to extremes. Just in case the grid power goes out.
I have a similar setup in terms of volume and output. You put together a very detailed and informative video, well done. I couldnt help but to smile when i seen the look on your kids faces, "Here comes dad, with another tinkering experiment". I get that look from my children as well. 😂 Keep up the good work. I will definitely subscribe and see what you have been up to from time to time.
Hello, thanks for the video. Can you please tell me what type of refrigerator that is? I mean, if the inverter generates 500w or max 900w, how much does the refrigerator consume when starting? . thank you.
Great video. Yup, the inverter will make a huge difference on how long things will run. I have 4 200AH SOKs in my rig with a Victron set-up and 1000W on panels. In summer, no problem staying near fully charged. System draw approx 15% of battery bank overnight if we are not here and 20-25 when we are. Winter, I get about a week to week and a half due to cloudy or full overcast days. These batteries are not that new BUT the prices have gotten consistently cheaper and recently very cheap.
Nice setup. I love my RV running on these batteries. I have one server rack battery in but it looks like you have about twice the battery storage capacity.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I recently picked up a Growatt for my workshop. Curious how much standby draw it will have. I could have my trailer last a lot longer if I shut the system down, but I keep it running even when not there for wireless internet, cameras, fridge (don't have to always carry food back and forth) and lights so it always looks like someone is home. Look forward to see how your setup evolves and grows.
My GW uses about 50w idle... which is off-set by an extra 150 watts of solar on the roof. Go with the EG4 v2 battery if you're only going to get one battery for your system. That thing is amazing and can start anything! I did a video of that battery also. You'll like the GW but it's a little more finicky that the Victron.
The amount of time you can get for a fridge will depend greatly on the ambient temp . If it's 40 degrees in your house it will run a lot longer than if it's 100 degrees.
it would be great to have some kind of chart to see that. I'm thinking keeping the condenser coil shaded would help? I know the water cooling technique works, but its just not reliable.
Also depending the brand/quality of the fridge. I have a Samsung (fridge/freezer combo) with digital inverter, which means it doesn't consume maximum wattage to adjust or keep temperature it can gradually increase the power and speed of the compressor.
Yesterday, due to storms, we had a power outage that lasted somewhere around 6 to 7 hours. After just about 4 hours, decided to plug the refrigerator into the 268 WH Bluetti power station.. Was pleasantly surprised to find out that it started and ran, and it showed that it had about 2.6 hours estimated in the beginning. Was drawing about 100 watts, but seemed to settle down to 85 watts. Now I have a starting point to consider whether I want to go the route of a power station, power station + solar, or a good old fashioned generator.
A power station with a capacity of 268Wh is typically equivalent to a 20Ah LiFePO4 battery. This comparison provides a clear perspective on the significant increase in runtime that a 100Ah battery would offer. As for the power stations, lower-end models might have limitations on input charging. This limitation becomes particularly relevant when evaluating the viability of establishing a solar array with an output exceeding 200W. In such cases, the advantages might not extend substantially beyond offsetting power generation during periods of low sunlight. Even though it might be expensive there are hybrid inverters if you're interested in constructing your own station. Hybrid inverters combine an inverter, an MPPT charge controller, and solar input functionalities into a single unit. This integrated design enables battery recharging without the necessity of a conventional DC to DC charge controller, especially when coupled with a generator. In such a configuration, the generator can efficiently replenish your batteries during periods of insufficient sunlight, most cheap generators provide 1000W of charge power, that can charge a 100ah battery in a little over an hour.
@@megabythubsounds about right. I have a 20yr old fridge/freezer so not as efficient and had it plugged into a watt meter for 29 hours and it averaged 119.2 wh. Was checking to see how long it could run on my ecoflow delta 2
It seems like the score for the laptop is very tricky. If you start with a charged battery, the battery will extend the running time of the laptop. If you start with a dead battery, some of the power going to the laptop will be used charging the laptop battery. I like what you are doing and have subscribed to your channel. Thank you for what you are doing. I think you are helping a lot of (silent) fans.
I love the solar I put on my RV. It works great and has basically negated our need for a gas generator in most circumstances. I've tried a million ways to justify solar at my home and the numbers never work. We are fortunate to cheap power in Phoenix area. Like a lot of people, I am attracted to the idea of "free" electricity from the sun. Truly objective analysis tells a different story unfortunately. Fun video. Thanks!
Your wifi router and laptop, and maybe the TV, you'd be better off running off DC rather than DC to AC to DC. You'll avoid the inefficiency losses converting between DC to AC to DC. An amazing way to do this is use USB-C. There are inexpensive PD 3.0 or even 3.1 USB-C devices, which will negotiate voltages of 5, 9, 12, 15, 20, 28, 36, and 48 volts (the last 3 are part of PD 3.1), and potentially if you use the right e-Marker cable designed to do it, up to 5 amps at any of those voltages, delivering up to 240 watts at 48 volts. You'd need a boost converter, which isn't perfectly efficient, to bump your 12 volt battery to 48 volts if you wanted to run PD 3.1 devices. But still more efficient than even a Victron inverter. You can buy USB-C trigger boards for devices that do not do USB-C natively, and make your own cable. Pretty much everything I do with batteries from now on will heavily involve USB-C and avoid AC Inverters.
Since I do electronics, I would just go straight to the main voltage used by the device in question, connect it straight to lithium battery's 12V if its own regulator can accept the maximum voltage of at least 15-16V. And if a lower or higher voltage is needed, I would use a step-down or step-up converter. The fewer devices/converters inbetween, the better.
@@edinfific2576 Yup, agreed. What USB-C PD 3.0/3.1 allows is if you don't know what you need to power, but want as many options as possible without adding a new buck (step down) or boost (step up) converter. If you can put 48 volts into a USB-C PD 3.1 outlet, then you can get ANY voltage at up to 5 amps PD 3.1 supports: 5, 9, 12, 15, 20, 28, 36, 48. You can convert most of your devices easily to any USB-C PD 3.0/3.1 voltage using a trigger board, which negotiates the voltage based on your choice, and outputs the positive and negative to whatever connector type your device needs. Now you can skip the buck/boost converters if you can run 48 volts to all of your USB-C PD 3.1 outlets, and have virtually any voltage you need. On a 12 volt battery bus, you could put boost converters ( 12 volt to 48 volt for $16.99, though on up to 2.1 amps amzn.to/44Okkch ) behind each USB-C Outlet so you can have the full voltage range, though peak delivery at 100 watts with the listed boost converter. There may be boost converters that can do 12 volt to 48 volt at 5 amps.
Thank you. Very interesting. My Laptop is the only device that has DC imput( 19v 12.a amps) the router and TV just accept 120 volts. I'm definitely going to get some of these to charge my 9v radio from usb-c.: amzn.to/45yNZHi
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRayPractically all home electronics immediately step down the 120v ac and then convert it to dc. This includes TV’s, routers, radios, computers, newer microwave ovens, etc., etc.
For those who does not know what VA is.. it is what is drawn from that inverter, it is always more than actual 'thing' (frigde, tv etc.) wattage because of the effectivity.. more eff, more close VA to W, less eff, more VA at less W
I run my tiny air conditioner during our frequent rural Louisiana power outages from an inverter and 300ah battery. I have limited solar but also use a 20amp plug-in charger. It has been a lifesaver during five heat emergency power outages since June and I can do a whole lot with it. I had to buy a lot of various solar batteries for hurricanes, severe storms, and tornadoes. My relatives nearby called me names but NOBODY can take away my electricity now. I got all electric garden tiller, mower, and weedeater too, and I`m about to get a small heater that can run all night if needed to keep the temperature at at least a safer level when another below zero high wind event happens. Last December I powered my electric blanket from an EB70 when temps fell to zero here with 40 mph winds. I have two of those and 9 smaller ones.
1. Try connect what possible direct 12V. 2. Buy dedicated inverter for laptop 12V/20V 100-150W. 3. Buy "Inverter refrigerator" ( big - better efficiency ) so camping 12 V for big house not right solution. 4. If you have AC / water pump - good idea to install 24 V (solar/battery/inverter).
Inverter efficiency is also affected by the power factory of the devices. Inductive loads like fridges, HVAC, etc have a very bad power factor, and will decrease that efficiency a lot.
Great information. im sharing the vid to multiple buddies. I have a 200 ah battery on a camper but i built a 13k system for cabin but sold it before i got to actually play with the numbers. that kid in check disrespectful. It will only get worse when they get older. I know mind my own business
Unusual in the first few seconds, but as soon as you started talking straight necessary and relevant details, you got my attention and a like. Many other guys either skip those details or mention too many unnecessary or irrelevant details and they lose me in their storytelling. I'm subscribing for now, though I have only watched less than 3 minutes of this video so far. Keep up the good work! Best wishes from Bosnia!
For conversion efficiency you need higher dc voltage. Lower voltage has more loss. That’s why most home systems are higher voltage. Simple version is low voltage equals high amps. Higher voltage is Lower amps. You spoke about it a few times and I believe 80% is pretty good for 12vdc to 120vac. I like what you’ve done there though. It’s good to see people doing some small diy setups and getting into solar. It’s so easy and simple anyone can do it.
Doing real world tests on home products that im sure is answering common questions about this kind of thing. Gonna come back for this when and if i get a power queen or something like it
Thank you for this informative and educational video. Can you tell me what do I need for running a swamp pump under my house in case of power outages, Please.
I have a power queen 12.8 190 2k inverter 5 100w panels it runs all my exterior lights at night and with no sun in winter that one battery gives me 2 1/2 nights The only thing I dislike is the Power Queen has a huge case compared to whats actually inside
Can you do one to run 1 air conditioning unit And a microwave? How many batteries? What kind of inverter and how many solar panels to get off the grid? For a overhead camper
Hi Ray what's up? New subscriber here. Glad I found ya. I have a question for you or any subscribers. Would it be worth it to have that fridge on a timer so that while the fam is sleeping, it wouldn't draw anything? I have those same exact batteries. I'm new so I hope I'm not making myself look like a jack ass with my question? I just wondered if it would be a power saving to have it run only when its being opened and closed? Also, that inverter was a 500 watt starting power? I thought it would take something like 800w to run a fridge that size? Like I said, I'm new to this. Thanks so much. Greetings from Maine.
I use a 12v system for my garage and sheds lights and ir ,light in the garden that a bat keeps turning on at dusk, I did it as a hobby thing but I’m quite pleased with it , it’s got 2 batteries on it and they charge up during the day well
Good video, thanks. I am impressed the 350W inverter could handle the startup surge of your fridge. BTW, and not really my place to say this, but your son (on the couch) is rude to you…. Oh well, I said it anyway, sorry. I will check out your other vids.
Good video! Thanks! Was great to see how.long everything runs for on lith batts! We just bought some lifepo4 lith batts, they are so small only a kg each! We are in rural mexico now and off grid, but a lot of sun here, so it all works well!/
While Re-watching your video I noticed that at the 5:13 mark you stated that the power draw was 50 amps. I am guessing that you meant 50 watts ? *FJB too !*
Perfect timing.. just bought a 768wh Ecoflow River 2 battery (waiting on its arrival) to see how long I can run my desktop/monitor on it, and how fast 220watt solar will charge it, and how much battery I need to run the setup for 16 hours a day. Easy to figure out with static values, but computers/etc vary all day up and down on power usage. So trying to figure out how to run it all on battery because its about 97% of the energy I use weekly (minus AC in summer but have solar panels on roof for that).
One safety aspect. Ground your fridge. The output of the inverter is floating in respect to ground. It could store charge on the stainless steel of the fridge.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I do not know if it is allowed in your country but here we connect one of the outputs of the inverter to ground so this will be the neutral and the other will become the line voltage. No surprise when using appliances.
Awesome testing. I've got 4 power stations, 1 Jackery 300, 1 Ecoflow River 2 Max and 2 DIY power stations. The DIY ones are my largest to save money over a prebuilt. One is based on the 2000 watt Go Power! GP-SW2000 inverter with 200ah LiFePO4 and the 2nd is a smaller setup using a 300 watt GP-SW300-12 and 100ah LiFePO4. There are a few good reasons to have so many. If in a power outage and you use a power station for multiple AC devices and you get into the loop of electricity there is potential to be electrocuted. Limiting each power station to power one AC earth grounded device ensures you can't touch two devices at once and become part of the circuit. However being electrocuted would be rare as you would need a faulty appliance, point being there is no earth ground on power stations like in your house electrical outlets for major appliances like a fridge or microwave. A fridge and microwave together check all the boxes for the potential accident, they are sometimes close to each other in a kitchen, made of metal surfaces and have an earth ground by law. So if you put your hands on both at the same time and one of them has a ground problem you get zapped. Having each one on their own power station negates that potential as long as you have a plastic case enclosing your power station so you cant touch anything conductive which most power stations/builds have. Another reason I have 4 power stations is using larger AC inverters to power small devices like a TV, modem or a router is inefficient no matter what inverter you use if its above 2000w pure sign inverter. Using my 300 watt pure sign inverters can save 3%-10% more power depending on the inverter you own and the application. The other reason I have so many is for redundancy especially the DIY ones. If something fails like a battery or charge controller I can just replace that part rather than the whole power station. I do like Victron Energy also, I think they are better than everything else if you can afford it. Same as Go Power! They are what most people in long term RVs use, expensive but worth the build quality.
Thanks for the comments. yeah, its always good to have a backup around. Another option for safety would be to have a ground neutral bond on your power station. easy as plugging in a bonding plug: amzn.to/47yn7sE
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Yeah neutral bonding at least would increase the safety if using a few devices that should be earth grounded and you have an earth ground in the loop. Some of the pre-built power stations are starting to come with earth ground wiring. For example my newest one, the Ecoflow River 2 Max says in the manual "This product must be grounded. When charging it should malfunction or break down, grounding provides a path of least resistance for electric current to reduce the risk of electric shock. This product is equipped with a power cord that has an equipment grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The plug must be plugged into an outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes ordinances." I think they mean IF it should malfunction... lol So the fact it has a real equipment earth ground wiring configuration means I could leave it plugged into the wall outlet during a power outage and then I have full electrical safety. Only issue is the little River 2 Max is not going to run my appliances as its to small! But its good they have that included in the new Ecoflow products.
That last statement I made could be wrong, the quote from the manual is talking about charging, not sure if they mean charging the unit or the plug on the AC inverter is part of the equipment earth ground. I'd need an outlet tester to verify when its plugged in vs not plugged in.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay That's a good safety feature and good you know about it. Not many devices have that and running the furnace would be something I would want during a long outage or disaster.
this is a really good one step at a time, piece by piece video describing how long just a battery will last for grid down situation. Good job. Here's the next questions. Is there a fast way to charge a battery like that like from a car or generator? What if we use an all-in-one inverter and some solar panels?
This was an awesome video. I realize there's something that scares me more than a band of marauders during the apocalypse. That is interruption of the kids' TV time that will inevitably ensue. when the grid goes down.
I tried thé same thing with my son. I wanted to see how much energy he uses with his gaming all day. That kind of electricity he said was no good.. so no test!.. he says that i am a nerd 😂
thank you for doing these videos. New subscriber just found your channel. I always wondered how long some of these things would actually run on some of these batteries and solar. Thanks again.
Whats your opinion on those used panels? They have amazing prices! I'm nervous getting used solar panels but in curious about your thoughts and experiences with them. Do you mix new with used or keep the used separate? Thanks for taking the time to make the videos great information.
I like them. Over I upgraded to some better used solar panels and I like them better than these used ones. You can check out my most recent video where I compared some new panels to use panels. They performed pretty much the same as the new panels. I have a link in a discount code for the used solar panels if you want to go that route. I wouldn't mix different types of panels. Good luck. 👍
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay So as an electrical engineer myself, I had made the right observation. I am trying to adapt the solar panels for my home, and still looking to buy 16ft cable to connect to my soar generator. The issue is, it has to be 10 gauge power cable as it has to carry 7 Amps of current. Thanks for the video
Love the videos bud. I'm looking for a small setup for my condo in case the power goes off. Couple batteries inverter plugged into the wall 24/7 if the power goes down short term I can use it as is. Longer situation throw up my solar panel on my deck. Any suggestions I'm a newbie to this stuff
Cool. this little battery(or the 200ah battery) is great for backing up a single fridge. This system might interest you if you want to go a little bigger(depends on your budget and how often the power goes out). th-cam.com/video/fBYtKh2XxzQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bIz-1SdhHpa-vysX
I have another suggestion: Compare this test to another test with a 200 and a 400 watt solar panel--and see how much longer it runs with the battery being connected to solar panels and the battery
Next time you do a video, might be a good idea to clean the house . Not a good look , just saying is all. But I did enjoy the very informative video. Greetings from Sherwood Forest.
Depends on how many watts they pull but not for long. Where you have it hooked to a good 100 watt panel on a sunny day and you use it while it is charging is when it pays off.
I personally go with a 48 volt server rack battery and all in one power station... similar to what I have in my RV but I have a really basic understanding of your requirements.
Can u do a video showing the controller with the battery connected to the solar and frige at the same time? Also how long it takes to the battery to charge from solar?
If you run your home router directly off DC you’ll get at least 50% more efficiency. You can get a car charger for your laptop running that off direct DC also avoid the DC to AC back to DC conversion for more efficiency.
Well we bought a 2017 Nissan Rogue from Enterprise Car Sales which had 33,000 miles on it. We did not have to replace that battery until this year! 7 YEARS! Probably eight because the car was made in 2019!!! I mentioned this to a guy at Valvoline Instant Oil Change and he claimed that he too had a long life battery BUT... he also said that he is disturbed at seeing so many batteries that they sell come back in 2 years or less needing replacement! Go figure
Fantastic video and you explain watts and amps to where many of us understand better than we did . I'm looking at maybe buying one of the battery's . We camp a lot and I use a C-Pap machine . Right now I bring 2 car batteries fully charged and one battery lasts 3 nights. Then I switch it to the other battery . By batteries are the lead ones . I use my C-Pap about 6 hrs a night . Any close idea how long this battery will last before needing re-charged ? Carrying 19 lbs in and out of my camper is better than 40 lbs . And will these recharge using a solar battery charger ? Thanks so much
These batteries would be perfect for you. There are some other ones that have a percentage screen which might be better though. The lfp or lithium iron phosphate batteries is definitely what you would want. I would assume that your current batteries aren't at 100% because they never are so I imagine one of these batteries would last you 4 days. Yes they can charge with a solar charger
What would be a good solar powered unit for me to use on Amazon . I'm no electrical or electronic person at all . But we do a lot of off gris camping . One that is not bigger than 2' x 2' would work great or if you know one that is great to use. Also I want to thank you so very much for replying to my question .
I ran for a full summer a 5000 btu window unit off of 4 12V AGM batteries in a 24V system with no problems. Initial start it would pull 800 watts and average was 500 watts an hour. What I am curious about is if one of these batteries would run a window unit. Was looking at a 24v 100ah battery earlier and then seen your vid has me thinking.
Thanks I learned alot. Was looking to find out how long I could run my 55lbs thrust trolling motor on a 12v 100ah. It draws about 720w And I'm thinking about 35hrs at 3mph on and off.
I had a 1000 watt mod.sine wave converter that would kick off on startup. I bought a better quality 2000 watt that works fine. Don’t know if was because it was a mod. Sine wave or that it was a cheap one from a tool supply company.
What was the brand of the 5200wh battery you showed at start? While there are bad inverters, I find efficiency of Victron no better than those of other decent quality inverters. 80% low watt and 90% when drawing high watts.
It's a lifepower4 server rack battery. I have a link in the description. You might also be interested in seeing the video I have reviewing the eg4 v2 server rack battery.
When the power goes out, the laptop already have a battery. Fridge don't need power as long as you don't open it. Battery backup for the wifi and cable modem is useless for me because cable doesn't work during a power outage. I use my cellphone hotspot for wifi. And the cellphone already have a battery.
The losses are mainly heat. But so far a very efficient hookup. It would be a nice system if solar can charge the battery as quickly as possible when you are not using the inverter, disconnect solar and use the battery to run 12v LED Lights in the house when its getting dark. The capacity should be enough to do that, saving you real money every day. Using an inverter is not always needed with appliances that can run on 12v, saving you most of the losses. But you already knew that.
Let's start with the fridge compressor, antiquated technology, fridge needs to be compressor free like a 3 way absorption fridge, except as heat source induction heater is used,very efficient
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
About 17 hours for the fridge.
Also around 17 hours for the tv.
About 24 hours for the laptop and router.
About 4 hours for all plus some lighting.
Thank you.
How can you run a 100 ah battery that long
@@Username-e5l A modern tv doesn't really consume that much power. A laptop and router even less. The fridge does draw a large amount of power, but unless you left the door open, open it a lot or the fridge is in a bad shape it should run at intervals for short periods.
@@LordBaal19 I have a 160 ah battery and I can barely run appliances for 6 hours
Must be a knock off @@Username-e5l
Lithium vs lead is
Lead you can only use 50% max
Lead volt go down means it use more amps to compensation. @@Username-e5l
What's good about this video is the clear concise and educational aspects for me in this growing offgrid industry. No hidden stuff
Plug into 3kw fire
You only think it's educational because you are also clueless !
@@christopherroberts22 i think it is educational and i am not clueless
Nice real life practical test. One correction as I've been using LiFePO4 so some time now. I don't recommend bringing the level down to zero too often as it will affect the amount of life cycles over time. I have a large solar array and expect at least ten or more years from my Power Queens but I won't run them down more than 60%. I better get at least 6-8000 cycles out of them.
Should go down to at least 40- if not 30% for Max cycles not 60. But more important is just keeping them in an environment that has a stable temperature and adequate airflow/passive cooling. Along with charging them at as low a rate as is practical.
Nel 48volt is bulk 54.4v float 53.9v en. End stop 51volt is perfect
The best way is 30 to 80%. They don't like being fully charged.
@@clevernduruza8624 Not LiFePO4 Batteries ..... you can run them down to 0 and charge them up to 100% - th-cam.com/video/K9Tfivf5bAI/w-d-xo.html
Yup, 50% more storage juice. I have at least 32 KW hours in lifepo4 at 48V with a 10,000 watt solar array outside. I initially purchased a few 5Ah tiny lifepos, studied them and learned enough to build two 15KW/Hr 300 pound, 48V batteries. For portable power stations I have literally lived off of the Bluetti AC200p for four flawless years straight. I gave it to my neighbor so he could learn about it after upgrading to the AC300 four stacker, B300's.
Wow. Nice! 👊
i would like to know more of how you did that please.
Thank you for this video Ray. I bought a Licciti battery box with 1,000 Watt inverter and 284 Ah Lifepo4 prismatic battery kit. I tested this last weekend with my traditional top freezer mount fridge and it went 30 hours and didn't get to 50% discharge. I only stopped using it since I still don't feel comfortable leaving it alone at home while we're away.
I am watching your videos, David Poz, Will Prowse and many others as I have begun buying the parts for a 48 Volt system. I really wasn't sure whether to buy more Licciti battery boxes/power stations or go to a large system but finally decided to avoid spending more money on the small power stations.
You did a comparison with lead acid batteries which was great because I use those.
These are the kind of questions I have always wanted answered but no DIYer or professional electrician have ever answered. Thanks for your elaborate tests. I have learned a lot from you
Thank you for all the nice comments. I love top gear! :-)
My first set up was with a sealed lead acid battery too. With led acid 1 rule of thumb is taking the aH on the battery and cut that in half for the true usable aH. My first battery was 112aH led acid and I'd only get about 55hours of constant power with it. It did charge very quickly though with 2 100w panels. About 3-4hours on a cloudy day
Yes. I would not have a lithium battery IN my home. Too risky
@@paulawagstaff686lithium phosphate batteries are different than lithium ion
@@paulawagstaff686lifepo4 is perfect no problem is good for house no exsplosion no real is good lifepo4 is different litio
Fyi to the people who wanna know why the inverter (and technical all inverters and generators) are in VA (volt amps) and not Watts. This also explains why the AC kWh dont match up with the DC kWh, especially with the fridge. It is call power factor and it only affect AC power. It is to complicated to explain here but there is plenty of good videos and websites online that explain it. But all you really need to know is that kW is the usable output energy and kVA is the energy required from the power source ( generators or inverter). E.g. a 110w fridge on 110v would theoretically pull 1A. 110v × 1A = 110w but in reality, with a guesstimated power factor of 0.8 (changes depending on the type of load), it will pull 1.25A. 1A ÷ pf0.8 = 1.25A. This means the inverter sees 137.5VA (1.25A × 110v) while the fridge is still only physically using 110w of power. Its basically another form of power loss on top of your normal other losses but alot more complicated to get your head around.
Great explanation. Except for my growatt 3000... the 3000 specifies how many ac watts it can support. Ie usable energy. The documents also mention 3000 W. I just tested it and it turns off just when it goes over 3,000 ac watts( enough for two large appliances).
However the victron multiplus 3000 only supports an output of 2400w of usable energy (Only enough for 1 large appliance)
yes the load on the inverter matters to rate the efficiency. A constant high draw load will be most efficient compared to a super low draw because the inverter has to be on longer doing the conversion from dc to ac for a longer time therefore consuming more of your battery into thin air.
It helped me. Straightforward and real-world testing. Thank you for taking the time to produce the(se) video.
Thanks, This one took a while to create. :)
I have one, Sir❤❤❤❤
last weekend worked with my diesel heater for 3 days without any charge!
That's awesome, what diesel heater do you have? Is there a small one you would recommend?
Anything that will run off 12V should come directly from the battery. I have the same battery running twelve LED light strips about 16hrs a day, a router, phone and tablet 24hrs a day, and it uses about 40ah on average with the lights being the highest draw.
That's a good point.
12 volt is the way to go.
Eliminate the inverter except as needed.
There is a company named PMMI Lighting out of Sweeny Texas that sells all 12volt lighting systems run from a Raspberry Pi module using ethernet routers and CAT 5/6 cable.
Switches and lights are programmable via a Spreadsheet.
There system is pretty sharp.
Great information.
Eliminate the inverter where possible.
There are 12v TVs, Refrigerators, Freezers and lighting systems.
The appliances have come a long way in the last 15 years.
Most TVs run off of far less than 12volt today.
@@shawnr771 I recently expanded my system so the 3,500w pure sine wave inverter now has to power my fridge and a cube freezer, hence it has to run all the time. But before that I only powered the inverter when needed. There's lots of stuff that will run off 12v with no inverter.
@@frankmaze1972 oh absolutely.
I built a 12 volt system just to run lights, fans, a very small fridge and a tv set plus charge phones.
You are far ahead of me.
I live in Texas I want to build a cold room. Heavily insulated and cooled by a 12 volt AC for when the temps get to extremes. Just in case the grid power goes out.
I have a similar setup in terms of volume and output. You put together a very detailed and informative video, well done. I couldnt help but to smile when i seen the look on your kids faces, "Here comes dad, with another tinkering experiment". I get that look from my children as well. 😂 Keep up the good work. I will definitely subscribe and see what you have been up to from time to time.
:) Awesome, thank you!
This is the exact video I have been looking to detail for an upgrade and use.
Hello, thanks for the video. Can you please tell me what type of refrigerator that is? I mean, if the inverter generates 500w or max 900w, how much does the refrigerator consume when starting? . thank you.
I agree a big refrigerator has 1500w to 2000w start up. Unless the 500w victron has a 2000w peak, it would cook.
Great video. Yup, the inverter will make a huge difference on how long things will run. I have 4 200AH SOKs in my rig with a Victron set-up and 1000W on panels. In summer, no problem staying near fully charged. System draw approx 15% of battery bank overnight if we are not here and 20-25 when we are. Winter, I get about a week to week and a half due to cloudy or full overcast days. These batteries are not that new BUT the prices have gotten consistently cheaper and recently very cheap.
Nice setup. I love my RV running on these batteries. I have one server rack battery in but it looks like you have about twice the battery storage capacity.
I'm running the growatt in mine with a victron battery monitor. I'm really liking it.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I recently picked up a Growatt for my workshop. Curious how much standby draw it will have. I could have my trailer last a lot longer if I shut the system down, but I keep it running even when not there for wireless internet, cameras, fridge (don't have to always carry food back and forth) and lights so it always looks like someone is home. Look forward to see how your setup evolves and grows.
My GW uses about 50w idle... which is off-set by an extra 150 watts of solar on the roof. Go with the EG4 v2 battery if you're only going to get one battery for your system. That thing is amazing and can start anything! I did a video of that battery also. You'll like the GW but it's a little more finicky that the Victron.
The amount of time you can get for a fridge will depend greatly on the ambient temp . If it's 40 degrees in your house it will run a lot longer than if it's 100 degrees.
it would be great to have some kind of chart to see that. I'm thinking keeping the condenser coil shaded would help? I know the water cooling technique works, but its just not reliable.
If it's 40 degrees, I'm not running the fridge. I'll keep the beer and cola on the counter.
And how many times did the kids open the frig door? Like your video. Considering a backup system,. LP generator or lithium batteries.
Also depending the brand/quality of the fridge.
I have a Samsung (fridge/freezer combo) with digital inverter, which means it doesn't consume maximum wattage to adjust or keep temperature it can gradually increase the power and speed of the compressor.
and the number of times the door is opened
Yesterday, due to storms, we had a power outage that lasted somewhere around 6 to 7 hours. After just about 4 hours, decided to plug the refrigerator into the 268 WH Bluetti power station.. Was pleasantly surprised to find out that it started and ran, and it showed that it had about 2.6 hours estimated in the beginning. Was drawing about 100 watts, but seemed to settle down to 85 watts. Now I have a starting point to consider whether I want to go the route of a power station, power station + solar, or a good old fashioned generator.
Nice. A couple 100 watt solar panels and you'd be golden.
A power station with a capacity of 268Wh is typically equivalent to a 20Ah LiFePO4 battery. This comparison provides a clear perspective on the significant increase in runtime that a 100Ah battery would offer. As for the power stations, lower-end models might have limitations on input charging. This limitation becomes particularly relevant when evaluating the viability of establishing a solar array with an output exceeding 200W. In such cases, the advantages might not extend substantially beyond offsetting power generation during periods of low sunlight.
Even though it might be expensive there are hybrid inverters if you're interested in constructing your own station. Hybrid inverters combine an inverter, an MPPT charge controller, and solar input functionalities into a single unit. This integrated design enables battery recharging without the necessity of a conventional DC to DC charge controller, especially when coupled with a generator. In such a configuration, the generator can efficiently replenish your batteries during periods of insufficient sunlight, most cheap generators provide 1000W of charge power, that can charge a 100ah battery in a little over an hour.
how the fuck is your fridge running on 100w?
@@megabythubsounds about right. I have a 20yr old fridge/freezer so not as efficient and had it plugged into a watt meter for 29 hours and it averaged 119.2 wh. Was checking to see how long it could run on my ecoflow delta 2
It seems like the score for the laptop is very tricky. If you start with a charged battery, the battery will extend the running time of the laptop. If you start with a dead battery, some of the power going to the laptop will be used charging the laptop battery.
I like what you are doing and have subscribed to your channel. Thank you for what you are doing. I think you are helping a lot of (silent) fans.
Yup. That's true. Thanks!
I love the solar I put on my RV. It works great and has basically negated our need for a gas generator in most circumstances. I've tried a million ways to justify solar at my home and the numbers never work. We are fortunate to cheap power in Phoenix area. Like a lot of people, I am attracted to the idea of "free" electricity from the sun. Truly objective analysis tells a different story unfortunately. Fun video. Thanks!
Thanks. I love solar on my RV also. Great for an emergency. Did you see my 48v RV conversion video? You'll like that one.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I haven't seen the video you mentioned, but I'll check it out now. Thanks!
Thanks for doing this. I have been seeing vids of this battery and wondered about how long it would run a frig. lol Perfect!
Thank you so much. I have subscribed and I love how its just plug in whatever you have, so random and no glitz. Love it
Your wifi router and laptop, and maybe the TV, you'd be better off running off DC rather than DC to AC to DC. You'll avoid the inefficiency losses converting between DC to AC to DC.
An amazing way to do this is use USB-C. There are inexpensive PD 3.0 or even 3.1 USB-C devices, which will negotiate voltages of 5, 9, 12, 15, 20, 28, 36, and 48 volts (the last 3 are part of PD 3.1), and potentially if you use the right e-Marker cable designed to do it, up to 5 amps at any of those voltages, delivering up to 240 watts at 48 volts.
You'd need a boost converter, which isn't perfectly efficient, to bump your 12 volt battery to 48 volts if you wanted to run PD 3.1 devices. But still more efficient than even a Victron inverter.
You can buy USB-C trigger boards for devices that do not do USB-C natively, and make your own cable.
Pretty much everything I do with batteries from now on will heavily involve USB-C and avoid AC Inverters.
Since I do electronics, I would just go straight to the main voltage used by the device in question, connect it straight to lithium battery's 12V if its own regulator can accept the maximum voltage of at least 15-16V.
And if a lower or higher voltage is needed, I would use a step-down or step-up converter. The fewer devices/converters inbetween, the better.
@@edinfific2576 Yup, agreed. What USB-C PD 3.0/3.1 allows is if you don't know what you need to power, but want as many options as possible without adding a new buck (step down) or boost (step up) converter. If you can put 48 volts into a USB-C PD 3.1 outlet, then you can get ANY voltage at up to 5 amps PD 3.1 supports: 5, 9, 12, 15, 20, 28, 36, 48. You can convert most of your devices easily to any USB-C PD 3.0/3.1 voltage using a trigger board, which negotiates the voltage based on your choice, and outputs the positive and negative to whatever connector type your device needs.
Now you can skip the buck/boost converters if you can run 48 volts to all of your USB-C PD 3.1 outlets, and have virtually any voltage you need.
On a 12 volt battery bus, you could put boost converters ( 12 volt to 48 volt for $16.99, though on up to 2.1 amps amzn.to/44Okkch ) behind each USB-C Outlet so you can have the full voltage range, though peak delivery at 100 watts with the listed boost converter. There may be boost converters that can do 12 volt to 48 volt at 5 amps.
Thank you. Very interesting. My Laptop is the only device that has DC imput( 19v 12.a amps) the router and TV just accept 120 volts. I'm definitely going to get some of these to charge my 9v radio from usb-c.: amzn.to/45yNZHi
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRayPractically all home electronics immediately step down the 120v ac and then convert it to dc. This includes TV’s, routers, radios, computers, newer microwave ovens, etc., etc.
Can TVs/monitors in general receive power through USB-C?
For those who does not know what VA is.. it is what is drawn from that inverter, it is always more than actual 'thing' (frigde, tv etc.) wattage because of the effectivity.. more eff, more close VA to W, less eff, more VA at less W
I run my tiny air conditioner during our frequent rural Louisiana power outages from an inverter and 300ah battery. I have limited solar but also use a 20amp plug-in charger. It has been a lifesaver during five heat emergency power outages since June and I can do a whole lot with it. I had to buy a lot of various solar batteries for hurricanes, severe storms, and tornadoes. My relatives nearby called me names but NOBODY can take away my electricity now. I got all electric garden tiller, mower, and weedeater too, and I`m about to get a small heater that can run all night if needed to keep the temperature at at least a safer level when another below zero high wind event happens. Last December I powered my electric blanket from an EB70 when temps fell to zero here with 40 mph winds. I have two of those and 9 smaller ones.
I'd love an electrician rototiller. Did you make it your self?
No, I just bought a tiller that matched my 2000w inverter. I think it`s 10 amps. Anyway, it works. @@diySolarPowerFunWithRay
Awesome content, very simple yet detailed. Look forward to more content from you.😊
Thanks 😊
1. Try connect what possible direct 12V. 2. Buy dedicated inverter for laptop 12V/20V 100-150W. 3. Buy "Inverter refrigerator" ( big - better efficiency ) so camping 12 V for big house not right solution. 4. If you have AC / water pump - good idea to install 24 V (solar/battery/inverter).
All good points!
Hey bud, love the fact you did home stuff ,tv and those things instead of tools
Thanks!
Inverter efficiency is also affected by the power factory of the devices. Inductive loads like fridges, HVAC, etc have a very bad power factor, and will decrease that efficiency a lot.
Do stuff that uses motors?
S*
Amazing , you were the only one that explained it in a simple way for me (a beginner) to understand , thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙏🏼
Thank you.
Great information. im sharing the vid to multiple buddies. I have a 200 ah battery on a camper but i built a 13k system for cabin but sold it before i got to actually play with the numbers. that kid in check disrespectful. It will only get worse when they get older. I know mind my own business
Unusual in the first few seconds, but as soon as you started talking straight necessary and relevant details, you got my attention and a like.
Many other guys either skip those details or mention too many unnecessary or irrelevant details and they lose me in their storytelling.
I'm subscribing for now, though I have only watched less than 3 minutes of this video so far.
Keep up the good work!
Best wishes from Bosnia!
This channel is gold, exactly what the internet needs! Lik'd and Sub'd....on a side note that would only run my homelab for a few hours :(
yeah, fusion research requires a little more power.
@@SamuelLanghorn .....nah, lots of rack servers
For conversion efficiency you need higher dc voltage. Lower voltage has more loss. That’s why most home systems are higher voltage. Simple version is low voltage equals high amps. Higher voltage is Lower amps. You spoke about it a few times and I believe 80% is pretty good for 12vdc to 120vac. I like what you’ve done there though. It’s good to see people doing some small diy setups and getting into solar. It’s so easy and simple anyone can do it.
Really appreciate this video. I was curious myself about how long my truck battery running through a inverter would power up my little window unit.
Doing real world tests on home products that im sure is answering common questions about this kind of thing. Gonna come back for this when and if i get a power queen or something like it
Very good! Thanks.
This is the practical kind of stuff we need to know.
Thank you for this informative and educational video.
Can you tell me what do I need for running a swamp pump under my house in case of power outages, Please.
No idea, depends on how much power your specific pump uses. You could measure it with that outlet meter I showed in the video
Great job on the video! Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks
I have a power queen 12.8 190 2k inverter 5 100w panels it runs all my exterior lights at night and with no sun in winter that one battery gives me 2 1/2 nights The only thing I dislike is the Power Queen has a huge case compared to whats actually inside
I'm using the mini model here. It's pretty nice but cost more
Can you do one to run 1 air conditioning unit And a microwave? How many batteries? What kind of inverter and how many solar panels to get off the grid? For a overhead camper
Ive got videos for those
Depends on efficiency of fridge and how many times door is opened and for how long.
That fridge seemed power hungry to me.
Gaz UK
Hi Ray what's up? New subscriber here. Glad I found ya. I have a question for you or any subscribers. Would it be worth it to have that fridge on a timer so that while the fam is sleeping, it wouldn't draw anything? I have those same exact batteries. I'm new so I hope I'm not making myself look like a jack ass with my question? I just wondered if it would be a power saving to have it run only when its being opened and closed? Also, that inverter was a 500 watt starting power? I thought it would take something like 800w to run a fridge that size? Like I said, I'm new to this. Thanks so much. Greetings from Maine.
This is by far the easiest video on this subject that I have seen 👍 thank you 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for running these tests!
I use a 12v system for my garage and sheds lights and ir ,light in the garden that a bat keeps turning on at dusk, I did it as a hobby thing but I’m quite pleased with it , it’s got 2 batteries on it and they charge up during the day well
Good video, thanks. I am impressed the 350W inverter could handle the startup surge of your fridge.
BTW, and not really my place to say this, but your son (on the couch) is rude to you…. Oh well, I said it anyway, sorry.
I will check out your other vids.
Granted I should not have filmed them right when I turned off the tv. They definitely weren't in their best place.
Good video! Thanks! Was great to see how.long everything runs for on lith batts! We just bought some lifepo4 lith batts, they are so small only a kg each! We are in rural mexico now and off grid, but a lot of sun here, so it all works well!/
Great video. I was wondering since testing the efficiency of the victron charge controller, if you would still go with it over cheaper brands?
While Re-watching your video I noticed that at the 5:13 mark you stated that the power draw was 50 amps. I am guessing that you meant 50 watts ?
*FJB too !*
You are correct. I miss spoke there. Thanks
Perfect timing.. just bought a 768wh Ecoflow River 2 battery (waiting on its arrival) to see how long I can run my desktop/monitor on it, and how fast 220watt solar will charge it, and how much battery I need to run the setup for 16 hours a day. Easy to figure out with static values, but computers/etc vary all day up and down on power usage. So trying to figure out how to run it all on battery because its about 97% of the energy I use weekly (minus AC in summer but have solar panels on roof for that).
A minimum of 3.5 hours of bright sunshine to charge the battery with no load on the battery.
@@deang5622 to be clear, the 220watt would take 3.5 hours or more to charge the river 2?
One safety aspect. Ground your fridge. The output of the inverter is floating in respect to ground. It could store charge on the stainless steel of the fridge.
Good point
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay I do not know if it is allowed in your country but here we connect one of the outputs of the inverter to ground so this will be the neutral and the other will become the line voltage. No surprise when using appliances.
@@qno-oj3py Yeah, We can do that. I think the easiest way is to used a ground Neutral bonding plug.
Awesome testing. I've got 4 power stations, 1 Jackery 300, 1 Ecoflow River 2 Max and 2 DIY power stations. The DIY ones are my largest to save money over a prebuilt. One is based on the 2000 watt Go Power! GP-SW2000 inverter with 200ah LiFePO4 and the 2nd is a smaller setup using a 300 watt GP-SW300-12 and 100ah LiFePO4. There are a few good reasons to have so many. If in a power outage and you use a power station for multiple AC devices and you get into the loop of electricity there is potential to be electrocuted. Limiting each power station to power one AC earth grounded device ensures you can't touch two devices at once and become part of the circuit. However being electrocuted would be rare as you would need a faulty appliance, point being there is no earth ground on power stations like in your house electrical outlets for major appliances like a fridge or microwave. A fridge and microwave together check all the boxes for the potential accident, they are sometimes close to each other in a kitchen, made of metal surfaces and have an earth ground by law. So if you put your hands on both at the same time and one of them has a ground problem you get zapped. Having each one on their own power station negates that potential as long as you have a plastic case enclosing your power station so you cant touch anything conductive which most power stations/builds have. Another reason I have 4 power stations is using larger AC inverters to power small devices like a TV, modem or a router is inefficient no matter what inverter you use if its above 2000w pure sign inverter. Using my 300 watt pure sign inverters can save 3%-10% more power depending on the inverter you own and the application. The other reason I have so many is for redundancy especially the DIY ones. If something fails like a battery or charge controller I can just replace that part rather than the whole power station. I do like Victron Energy also, I think they are better than everything else if you can afford it. Same as Go Power! They are what most people in long term RVs use, expensive but worth the build quality.
Thanks for the comments. yeah, its always good to have a backup around. Another option for safety would be to have a ground neutral bond on your power station.
easy as plugging in a bonding plug: amzn.to/47yn7sE
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Yeah neutral bonding at least would increase the safety if using a few devices that should be earth grounded and you have an earth ground in the loop. Some of the pre-built power stations are starting to come with earth ground wiring. For example my newest one, the Ecoflow River 2 Max says in the manual "This product must be grounded. When charging it should malfunction or break down, grounding provides a path of least resistance for electric current to reduce the risk of electric shock. This product is equipped with a power cord that has an equipment grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The plug must be plugged into an outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes ordinances." I think they mean IF it should malfunction... lol So the fact it has a real equipment earth ground wiring configuration means I could leave it plugged into the wall outlet during a power outage and then I have full electrical safety. Only issue is the little River 2 Max is not going to run my appliances as its to small! But its good they have that included in the new Ecoflow products.
That last statement I made could be wrong, the quote from the manual is talking about charging, not sure if they mean charging the unit or the plug on the AC inverter is part of the equipment earth ground. I'd need an outlet tester to verify when its plugged in vs not plugged in.
@practicalguy973 cool. Also, some furnaces(mine)won't run unless the circuit board detects a GN bond.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay That's a good safety feature and good you know about it. Not many devices have that and running the furnace would be something I would want during a long outage or disaster.
Great video.
I'm very much a numbers guy myself and love seeing someone so dedicated to getting the maximum efficiency out your equipment!
Really looking forward to seeing you hook the battery to a power station.
Editing that video now :).
this is a really good one step at a time, piece by piece video describing how long just a battery will last for grid down situation. Good job. Here's the next questions. Is there a fast way to charge a battery like that like from a car or generator? What if we use an all-in-one inverter and some solar panels?
This was an awesome video. I realize there's something that scares me more than a band of marauders during the apocalypse. That is interruption of the kids' TV time that will inevitably ensue. when the grid goes down.
Yes :)
I tried thé same thing with my son. I wanted to see how much energy he uses with his gaming all day. That kind of electricity he said was no good.. so no test!.. he says that i am a nerd 😂
I’ve heard you need a special charger for this battery? What is recommended?
Would appreciate a step by step video or link to how you setup your battery, inverter, and cables
Thanks, I'll see if I can make a video on this
thank you for doing these videos. New subscriber just found your channel. I always wondered how long some of these things would actually run on some of these batteries and solar. Thanks again.
Thanks for subbing!
Hi informative video. Just a quick question - Is your fridge an inverter fridge?
No
THANK YOU IVE BEEN LOOKING FOR CLARITY THIS VIDEO IS AWESOME
You have to take into account the accuracy of your tester measuring the power, and how accurate what the manufacturer claims it is.
Whats your opinion on those used panels? They have amazing prices! I'm nervous getting used solar panels but in curious about your thoughts and experiences with them. Do you mix new with used or keep the used separate?
Thanks for taking the time to make the videos great information.
I like them. Over I upgraded to some better used solar panels and I like them better than these used ones. You can check out my most recent video where I compared some new panels to use panels. They performed pretty much the same as the new panels.
I have a link in a discount code for the used solar panels if you want to go that route.
I wouldn't mix different types of panels. Good luck. 👍
Great info... Thank you. Did you remove the battery from the Dell laptop?
No. But the battery was fully charged when I plugged it in to the power station
Spot on Info, thank you. I'm just starting out building my first solar set up and researching as much as possible first.
for efficiency meassuring did you take the power factor into account?
Very helpful thanks very much. You are like me an engineer at heart. You probably are an electrical engineer.
Software engineer actually... But I do enjoy the hardware side of things. Engineering stuff is definitely fun. Thanks
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay So as an electrical engineer myself, I had made the right observation. I am trying to adapt the solar panels for my home, and still looking to buy 16ft cable to connect to my soar generator. The issue is, it has to be 10 gauge power cable as it has to carry 7 Amps of current. Thanks for the video
Love the videos bud. I'm looking for a small setup for my condo in case the power goes off. Couple batteries inverter plugged into the wall 24/7 if the power goes down short term I can use it as is. Longer situation throw up my solar panel on my deck. Any suggestions I'm a newbie to this stuff
Cool. this little battery(or the 200ah battery) is great for backing up a single fridge. This system might interest you if you want to go a little bigger(depends on your budget and how often the power goes out). th-cam.com/video/fBYtKh2XxzQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=bIz-1SdhHpa-vysX
I have another suggestion: Compare this test to another test with a 200 and a 400 watt solar panel--and see how much longer it runs with the battery being connected to solar panels and the battery
And any lead on where to buy the specific type of battery you were using in your setup.
Thank you 🙏
There is a link in the description
Thankyou for your patience to post the knowledge.
Very informative! Thank you for running the numbers for us.
You bet!
Great real world research! Very useful.
I have to test this battery for myself fella. The thing that gets me is the cost. A bit high for sure. 😀😀
There are a lot of cheap options out there. Just realized this will replace two of your lead acid batteries and they will last 10 times as long
That part is superb for sure. NICE!!@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay
Next time you do a video, might be a good idea to clean the house . Not a good look , just saying is all. But I did enjoy the very informative video. Greetings from Sherwood Forest.
Depends on how many watts they pull but not for long. Where you have it hooked to a good 100 watt panel on a sunny day and you use it while it is charging is when it pays off.
as per the tests i have conducted in the past it all depends on 3 things - 1. Amps or total watt hour 2. Total load 3. Depth of discharge
Great video I'm confused what battery would I need to run a 3000watt inverter continuous power 2800watt. Thanks
I personally go with a 48 volt server rack battery and all in one power station... similar to what I have in my RV but I have a really basic understanding of your requirements.
Can u do a video showing the controller with the battery connected to the solar and frige at the same time? Also how long it takes to the battery to charge from solar?
Great idea. I'll do that video next
charging the battery depends on how much power is available to you, I think most recommend a max of around 120amps so within an hour.
If you run your home router directly off DC you’ll get at least 50% more efficiency. You can get a car charger for your laptop running that off direct DC also avoid the DC to AC back to DC conversion for more efficiency.
Thanks, I wonder if it would be hard to find a dc attachment for my router
Cut the wire and tie it to the battery
@ericwilliams952 actually my router doesn't run off 12 volts DC. It requires 120ac.
@ericwilliams952 the laptop does accept DC power but it's 19 volts so it's not as simple as connecting the battery.. If that's what you mean.
@@diySolarPowerFunWithRay Buy cheap laptop inverter ( small 100W - big maybe 200W) 12/20V
Great video. Would be great to see you testing some heaters
What type of heater would you be interested in. Heated blankets?
You'd be able to run things longer if you ran the LEDs directly with 12vdc instead of converting it through the inverter and then back into DC
Well we bought a 2017 Nissan Rogue from Enterprise Car Sales which had 33,000 miles on it. We did not have to replace that battery until this year! 7 YEARS! Probably eight because the car was made in 2019!!! I mentioned this to a guy at Valvoline Instant Oil Change and he claimed that he too had a long life battery BUT... he also said that he is disturbed at seeing so many batteries that they sell come back in 2 years or less needing replacement! Go figure
Fantastic video and you explain watts and amps to where many of us understand better than we did . I'm looking at maybe buying one of the battery's . We camp a lot and I use a C-Pap machine . Right now I bring 2 car batteries fully charged and one battery lasts 3 nights. Then I switch it to the other battery . By batteries are the lead ones . I use my C-Pap about 6 hrs a night . Any close idea how long this battery will last before needing re-charged ? Carrying 19 lbs in and out of my camper is better than 40 lbs . And will these recharge using a solar battery charger ? Thanks so much
These batteries would be perfect for you. There are some other ones that have a percentage screen which might be better though. The lfp or lithium iron phosphate batteries is definitely what you would want. I would assume that your current batteries aren't at 100% because they never are so I imagine one of these batteries would last you 4 days. Yes they can charge with a solar charger
What would be a good solar powered unit for me to use on Amazon . I'm no electrical or electronic person at all . But we do a lot of off gris camping . One that is not bigger than 2' x 2' would work great or if you know one that is great to use. Also I want to thank you so very much for replying to my question .
I ran for a full summer a 5000 btu window unit off of 4 12V AGM batteries in a 24V system with no problems. Initial start it would pull 800 watts and average was 500 watts an hour. What I am curious about is if one of these batteries would run a window unit. Was looking at a 24v 100ah battery earlier and then seen your vid has me thinking.
Thanks I learned alot. Was looking to find out how long I could run my 55lbs thrust trolling motor on a 12v 100ah. It draws about 720w And I'm thinking about 35hrs at 3mph on and off.
Love my Victron equipment
I had a 1000 watt mod.sine wave converter that would kick off on startup. I bought a better quality 2000 watt that works fine. Don’t know if was because it was a mod. Sine wave or that it was a cheap one from a tool supply company.
This battery with my Bluetti AC180 work perfect together.....
This is great. Exactly what I was hoping to see. Thank you
What was the brand of the 5200wh battery you showed at start?
While there are bad inverters, I find efficiency of Victron no better than those of other decent quality inverters. 80% low watt and 90% when drawing high watts.
It's a lifepower4 server rack battery. I have a link in the description. You might also be interested in seeing the video I have reviewing the eg4 v2 server rack battery.
When the power goes out, the laptop already have a battery. Fridge don't need power as long as you don't open it. Battery backup for the wifi and cable modem is useless for me because cable doesn't work during a power outage. I use my cellphone hotspot for wifi. And the cellphone already have a battery.
Love the kids. Do more videos like this please. I want to see if I can learn how to run a few things to get use to not using the power company
More to come! Thanks for watching.
The efficient inverters use a big heavy toroidal transformer. eg Latronics brand. My 5kW inverter is over 95% efficient, but weights a ton.
Utah? I recognize those mountains!
Yup :)
Great video Thank you very much !! love the real world test
Maybe it’s more complicated than just this but how long would it take to charge off of 850w(1000w peak) generator?
Cheers!
a 850 watt generator would charge it in just over an hour. maybe 90 minutes....if it's running at 850 watts.
The losses are mainly heat. But so far a very efficient hookup. It would be a nice system if solar can charge the battery as quickly as possible when you are not using the inverter, disconnect solar and use the battery to run 12v LED Lights in the house when its getting dark. The capacity should be enough to do that, saving you real money every day. Using an inverter is not always needed with appliances that can run on 12v, saving you most of the losses. But you already knew that.
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing
Let's start with the fridge compressor, antiquated technology, fridge needs to be compressor free like a 3 way absorption fridge, except as heat source induction heater is used,very efficient