Randy, I recall a video a year or so ago where you were adamant about never using braid for cranking. I made a long comment explaining why, when, how, etc, braid is better. Glad to see you gave it a go and tried it. Some ways to offset losing fish and dealing with the lack of stretch are switching to much thicker diameter hooks, double split rings (or even braided line split rings). Also the Megabass Orochi Launcher is the perfect rod for braided line deep cranking. Also, cover dictating, using your drag or free spooling and thumb controlling (the back reeling version of bait casting) will help a ton. I actually have a higher hookup and landing percentage with braid than with fluoro on cranking. Braided line, in the same or slightly larger pound test rating, will get a crankbait significantly deeper than fluoro and give the crankbait more action because it is thinner in diameter creating less resistance, which in turn allows the bait to get deeper and have more freedom to roll, flash, shimmy, wiggle or whatever action the specific bait has. A lot of people think fluoro will get it deeper because it sinks but that simply is not true. The reason is because with a crankbait there is constant tension on the line due to the lure being constantly retrieved so the line doesn’t have the time to sink and get a “belly” in the line between the bait and boat to help keep down as you would with slow bottom contact techniques such as c-rigs, jigs, etc. It would literally take like 5 minutes of feeding slack to allow fluorocarbon to sink. Another myth is that if you drop your lure in the water and can’t see past x amount of feet (let’s say 5 feet), people think no matter the depth there is 5’ of visibility. That’s simply not true, that just means there is 5’ of visible light penetration in the water. With that 5’ of losing sight of the lure, at 25’ deep there is not 5’ of visibility. So as long as there is less light penetration than the depth you’re fishing the braided line is actually invisible at anything beyond the point of visible light penetration. As mentioned in the first paragraph, you can switch to heavier gauge hooks to help combat the lack of stretch. The heavier gauge hooks also help get a little bit more depth out of the lure by slightly reducing the buoyancy of the bait. Just bear in mind that rise rate will be a bit slower when working over wood or veg on the bottom. Another area that braid out shines fluoro for cranking is when cranking in vegetation. It’s much easier to rip the bait from the grass and rip the bait to clean grass off the hook. It’s also more sensitive than fluoro, when there is tension on the line (fluoro is actually more sensitive on slack line- there are legit scientific studies on why this is the case), so it’s easier to detect grass on the bait. Especially if using a glass rod, due to them being less dense than graphite and thus less sensitive. The lack of stretch makes it easier to get the snap of the rod to move the bait much sharper with less effort. Which can be huge if super deep cranking all day with a long, heavy and often unbalanced rod by reducing fatigue. If that isn’t enough to make the switch, it is also much more affordable when fishing high resistance cranks. The reason is due to the lack of stretch. After a day of cranking high resistance crankbaits, the fluoro has been stretched out and is shot causing it to need to be replaced. With braid you can crank with the same line for years, provided it’s a quality braid and isn’t stored in direct sunlight for prolonged periods. The best braid that I’ve found for deep cranking in open water, rocks and wood is Daiwa Samurai in 15, 20 and 30 pound test depending on the desired depth and/or cover that is present. It has a significantly thinner diameter than other 8 carrier braids, yet actually has the same strength. Unlike say Gamma edge fluoro vs Sunline or Seaguar, the diameter on the Gamma is much thicker than the others for same listed pound test rating yet the same diameter lines across all 3 brands actually have the same breaking strength. Why I specified 8 carrier and the listing of cover is due to 8 carrier (strand count) is smoother than a 4 carrier braid making it quieter through and easier on the guides of the rod. As well as it being smoother there less friction (given the same diameter) than a 4 carrier allowing it cast farther. Also it being smoother will help to not saw into wood as easy as a 4 carrier braid resulting in less hang ups. Now, where the 4 carrier braid comes into play is in vegetation. The 4 carrier being less smooth allows it to cut through the grass more efficiently than an 8 carrier resulting in it being easier to cleanly rip the bat from and clear the hooks of grass. The best 4 carrier that I’ve found is Power Pro Maxcuatro in 20 and 30 pound test. It’s much thinner than other braids within its same pound test range, and just like with Daiwa Samurai braid, it’s pound test per diameter is actually legit. Keep in mind the different characteristics of 4 and 8 carrier, as well as 13 carrier (like the sufix 131) and apply that to all techniques that you would use braid for and it will help be more efficient with specific techniques and cover within specific areas such as flipping/pitching, frogging, etc. All of that said, you certainly don’t have to get that specific with carrier counts and all of that jazz to catch a bass deep cranking. However, if you want to maximize your efficiency it’s the little .5, .8, 1, and 5% improvements that when all added up make a 20% increase in your efficiency. Thus giving you that slight edge over those that don’t, which can result in much easier, successful and more fun day on the water whether a weekend warrior, club tourney or circuit angler. If you made it this far into this comment kudos and hope the info helps. Another side note and myth busted, is using slow reels for cranking. The original reason for low speed reels was due to higher torque resulting in it being easier to turn the handle against the higher resistance of the crankbait resulting in less fatigue. The first high speed reels that came didn’t have as strong of internals as better quality modern high speed reels (Daiwa and Shimano namely as they’re the best 2 reel manufacturers on the market today). So some pros, specifically A-Mart and Tak, tried putting larger handles on the first models of high speed reels and the reels couldn’t handle the torque and would lockup or break. So everyone stayed with slower gears. Modern high speed reels (7:1-8:1 range, not the 10:1 reels), have had all of the bugs worked out and are capable of handling much larger handles without problems. Provided they have a solid and strong aluminum frame, and quality internals (hence the specify of Diawa and Shimano). Also cranks being a reaction bait, by using a higher speed real you can burn and pause causing the bait to jump as if it has deflected off of cover, creating a reaction bite. The higher speed reels allow you to do more with the bait with less fatigue. They also make more water efficiently and practically fishable. What I mean by that is say you’re target a point that has a few big rocks or a limb on it. Instead of reeling all of that time in each cast just to hit that rock or limb to get the reaction bite, you can more efficiently turn the entirety of the bottom contact of that cast into a reaction bite with less fatigue by not having to reel a slow reel at 90 miles an hour, you can reel a fast reel at a normal or slightly elevated pace. There is also another myth that the slower reel allows the bait to get deeper, that’s not true either. Hence the reason for reeling 90 miles an hour to get the bait down to the bottom. If however, your bait isn’t getting down on a fast retrieve, that means you either need to tune the bait or you’re buying crappy baits. For the really deep cranks I use a Daiwa Zillion HD 8:1, Tatula 150 7:1 and Shimano Tranx 200 7:1 but put 110mm and 120mm handles on the reel. This gives me the torque of a slower reel and allows me to fish the bait fast or slow without fatigue. Again adding a 5-10%, or whatever, increase in efficiency piling up into making my time on the water a better experience. If you read all of this, you’re a champ. Sorry for the ridiculously long comment but hope sharing some of what I’ve learned helps you and saves you the trial, error and time it took me to learn it. Yes, I know, I’m a hardcore nerd when it comes to fishing. Lol!
Thanks so much for your in depth comment. You seem thoroughly knowledgeable and for sure I appreciate the details. I am struggling with the idea of using straight braid vs braid with a leader. This is such a controversial and situational subject, and I admit I don’t know what to do. I generally fish waters with 1-3 feet of of visibility. Except for top waters, I use a fluorocarbon leader, as I am under the impression this ensures the line can’t be seen by the fish. ( I know this is controversial and situational, generally applying to very clear water). Regardless , using leaders seems to be the setup most use. I want to try straight braid. Do you use straight braid for any other applications, and do you ever use a fluorocarbon leader? If no leader,do you color the line or anything? I would with gratitude appreciate your advice. Please expound!! Thanks!
@@jimkingsland1645 You’re welcome and thanks for the compliment. I use a little bit of everything depending on the technique and very specific locations/conditions. There is a time and place for everything. For frogging, punching, anything in thick grass, topwaters, and oversized cranking or trying to get a regular crankbait as deep as it will go I prefer straight braid. On everything else I prefer straight fluoro or braid to leader. On the topwater hard bait thing, maybe 99% of the time I use straight braid, 1% a mono/copoly or very short fluoro leader. That 1% being crystal clear water if I’m letting the bait sit for more than 3 seconds at a time. A lot of people have problems with braid catching the front treble of topwater hard baits, you can eliminate that by sliding a 4-6” long piece of clear uncut spinnerbait blade spacer tubes or by using a coffee stirring straw. Slide a sinker peg on the line, then straw/spacer, then tie the bait on and use the peg to keep the straw in place.
I use Suffix 832 Moss Green 30 pound braid. On all my baitcaster and spinning reels. My best squarebill crank bait is KVD 1.5 Sexy Shad. Cast for cast. Catch for catch. Over 4 years fishing every month. I only lost one fish. I didn't retie the crank after 4 hours of fishing. No stretch and very sensitive to the touch. I caught 43 largies in 1 hr and 15 minutes. Using that crank and that braided line. Never had great luck with mono or Flourocarbon. Braid is far superior. Just my take after catching hundreds of Largemouth Bass over that period of time. I know many fishermen will dis agree. Shawn.
I’ve been doing this for decades, three things that should be said though. One use your drag! You want just enough to set the hooks, they hook themselves so well you can let them run all over the place. Even though this goes against everything you say about drag.😂 Two up size your split rings, even 20 braid will open them up. Three up grade your hooks, they will bend open especially if they are brass. My home lake is Okeechobee and with all the grass it makes it easier to get unhung and fish more efficiently.
@@tonyb-50 adjust your brakes on the reel and if you can tie your line to a post and then walk back roughly 40 yards or so and then put on a piece of electrical tape on the reel. Once the tape is on the reel then wind up the line. Now you can use this and if it does backlash the line won't bury down into the spool nearly as far or as bad and it can easily be picked out and used. Learned this from a Bill Dance video. Hope this helps and you can do this same thing with mono as well.
In California, I do it all the time. Been doing it for decades. Water clarity averages 1-2 ft. I believe it gives much less vibrations than fluorocarbon puts off. Also, it isn't felt as easily as mono or fluorocarbon.
I appreciate your comments about the use of braid and the flexibleness of your rod tip, ... would you comment of the use of drag also with the different lines. All my reels are set to the same poundage for the different lines I use, whether 8, 10 or 15 pound, braid or mono. It seems that all the heavy line users of 50, 60 and higher pound test have their drags set as high as they can go.
Not a big fan of trebles & braid...especially with big baits...smaller cranks & light braid i could see potential...like the abrasion resistance of mono over light braid.. Still like some stretch with trebles particularly on the bigger fish...baitcaster w/10-12 lb. Mono small-med cranks and 14 lb. on cranks up to an ounce...bigger, like 8XD & 10XD i throw on my swimbait rod w/20-25 lb. Mono...cuts down on the full depth, but still works OK
I've been doing that for ages. In the past i used that in combination with a wire trace (7-strand) with a snap on one side and a swivel on the other. Coated or non-coated is a preference. Nowadays is use titanium wire which i tie together and end with a snap and sleeve crimped on. 😊 You dont want to feel a pike hit your lure 😮 and see it chase off into the water 😂 in Pike country. Round and round 😅😅 even rounder and then rounder on top of that roundness😂😂. ~ Yes i started using a 0,08 mm/13 carrier line which is significantly thinner and rounder. When i was young the MAIN purpose using braid was that you can pull entire bushes out of the ground 😂😂 We had to as bank fishermen 😢😢 seeing your lure land on a branch on the other side of a stream or canal 😵😵 can't have that. It cuts weeds, pads, herrons, ducks, a ghose gives a lot of blood be prepared for that 😁😁 shopping carts, bikes, bikes, bikes,.. another bike, bike bike, yesterday i even saw a left over part from a Triumph motorbike floating in the canal, road signs, baby-buggies, plastic seats EVERYTHING is in the water.🙄😋 Europe has more dense populated countries , which is good bc better regulated 😊😊. BUT i try to branch out to fc or co-polymar line but then i have to start using (the old) 7 strand again with a swivel & snap which is to much Weight on the front of your lure 😞😔. So still its braid on almost all my reels and verrrrry common practice along the watersedge ✌️😎👍
I’m nude straight braid when I crank, because I can feel everything, so I don’t get snagged to much. I just use a rod with good flex to help with the kushen, I mostly crank on my light bfs rod, with 8lb braid.
I used braid in Florida because the water was dark. I couldn't get an answer for line in clear water so I went to straight fluorocarbon. I love the sensitivity of braid but you can't make it invisible. I always go with the most cautious option.
I live in south Louisiana, most of my fishing is on tidal bodies of water, any advice? For larger fish, we catch on average 60 fish a trip here on the Mississippi Delta. I really like your vids. Just to let you know live scope has no advantage here
So why not just use fluorocarbon since it sinks and helps get the crankbaits down? I hate fluorocarbon but I'm just curious why braid over that? Is it just the diameter and casting distant factors?
I use straight 30lb braid on Bladed Jigs. They swim better and tighter without a leader. I recently used straight 15lb suffix fluorocarbon on a Bladed Jig, it was so sloppy, off balance, really touchy
Hey Randy great video!! Quick question,what size and brand hooks do u use to replace on the s crank 1.2. hooked up on a big cat fish that blew out both hooks.
Ok, stupid question. Do you have it hooked to the eyelet? And do you always do that? Because I was always told to never do it, but you’re a pro. So I’m just wondering
What I am guessing is, Randy said too much crap about PE line but he just realize he can sell more products if he says something good about PE. If you go through his videos, all most all of the videos, he strongly rejects PE, too visible, no stretch, a slack etc, but when he can make some more money, he will say something good about PE
Randy, I recall a video a year or so ago where you were adamant about never using braid for cranking. I made a long comment explaining why, when, how, etc, braid is better. Glad to see you gave it a go and tried it. Some ways to offset losing fish and dealing with the lack of stretch are switching to much thicker diameter hooks, double split rings (or even braided line split rings). Also the Megabass Orochi Launcher is the perfect rod for braided line deep cranking. Also, cover dictating, using your drag or free spooling and thumb controlling (the back reeling version of bait casting) will help a ton. I actually have a higher hookup and landing percentage with braid than with fluoro on cranking.
Braided line, in the same or slightly larger pound test rating, will get a crankbait significantly deeper than fluoro and give the crankbait more action because it is thinner in diameter creating less resistance, which in turn allows the bait to get deeper and have more freedom to roll, flash, shimmy, wiggle or whatever action the specific bait has. A lot of people think fluoro will get it deeper because it sinks but that simply is not true. The reason is because with a crankbait there is constant tension on the line due to the lure being constantly retrieved so the line doesn’t have the time to sink and get a “belly” in the line between the bait and boat to help keep down as you would with slow bottom contact techniques such as c-rigs, jigs, etc. It would literally take like 5 minutes of feeding slack to allow fluorocarbon to sink.
Another myth is that if you drop your lure in the water and can’t see past x amount of feet (let’s say 5 feet), people think no matter the depth there is 5’ of visibility. That’s simply not true, that just means there is 5’ of visible light penetration in the water. With that 5’ of losing sight of the lure, at 25’ deep there is not 5’ of visibility. So as long as there is less light penetration than the depth you’re fishing the braided line is actually invisible at anything beyond the point of visible light penetration.
As mentioned in the first paragraph, you can switch to heavier gauge hooks to help combat the lack of stretch. The heavier gauge hooks also help get a little bit more depth out of the lure by slightly reducing the buoyancy of the bait. Just bear in mind that rise rate will be a bit slower when working over wood or veg on the bottom.
Another area that braid out shines fluoro for cranking is when cranking in vegetation. It’s much easier to rip the bait from the grass and rip the bait to clean grass off the hook. It’s also more sensitive than fluoro, when there is tension on the line (fluoro is actually more sensitive on slack line- there are legit scientific studies on why this is the case), so it’s easier to detect grass on the bait. Especially if using a glass rod, due to them being less dense than graphite and thus less sensitive. The lack of stretch makes it easier to get the snap of the rod to move the bait much sharper with less effort. Which can be huge if super deep cranking all day with a long, heavy and often unbalanced rod by reducing fatigue.
If that isn’t enough to make the switch, it is also much more affordable when fishing high resistance cranks. The reason is due to the lack of stretch. After a day of cranking high resistance crankbaits, the fluoro has been stretched out and is shot causing it to need to be replaced. With braid you can crank with the same line for years, provided it’s a quality braid and isn’t stored in direct sunlight for prolonged periods.
The best braid that I’ve found for deep cranking in open water, rocks and wood is Daiwa Samurai in 15, 20 and 30 pound test depending on the desired depth and/or cover that is present. It has a significantly thinner diameter than other 8 carrier braids, yet actually has the same strength. Unlike say Gamma edge fluoro vs Sunline or Seaguar, the diameter on the Gamma is much thicker than the others for same listed pound test rating yet the same diameter lines across all 3 brands actually have the same breaking strength. Why I specified 8 carrier and the listing of cover is due to 8 carrier (strand count) is smoother than a 4 carrier braid making it quieter through and easier on the guides of the rod. As well as it being smoother there less friction (given the same diameter) than a 4 carrier allowing it cast farther. Also it being smoother will help to not saw into wood as easy as a 4 carrier braid resulting in less hang ups.
Now, where the 4 carrier braid comes into play is in vegetation. The 4 carrier being less smooth allows it to cut through the grass more efficiently than an 8 carrier resulting in it being easier to cleanly rip the bat from and clear the hooks of grass. The best 4 carrier that I’ve found is Power Pro Maxcuatro in 20 and 30 pound test. It’s much thinner than other braids within its same pound test range, and just like with Daiwa Samurai braid, it’s pound test per diameter is actually legit.
Keep in mind the different characteristics of 4 and 8 carrier, as well as 13 carrier (like the sufix 131) and apply that to all techniques that you would use braid for and it will help be more efficient with specific techniques and cover within specific areas such as flipping/pitching, frogging, etc.
All of that said, you certainly don’t have to get that specific with carrier counts and all of that jazz to catch a bass deep cranking. However, if you want to maximize your efficiency it’s the little .5, .8, 1, and 5% improvements that when all added up make a 20% increase in your efficiency. Thus giving you that slight edge over those that don’t, which can result in much easier, successful and more fun day on the water whether a weekend warrior, club tourney or circuit angler. If you made it this far into this comment kudos and hope the info helps.
Another side note and myth busted, is using slow reels for cranking. The original reason for low speed reels was due to higher torque resulting in it being easier to turn the handle against the higher resistance of the crankbait resulting in less fatigue. The first high speed reels that came didn’t have as strong of internals as better quality modern high speed reels (Daiwa and Shimano namely as they’re the best 2 reel manufacturers on the market today). So some pros, specifically A-Mart and Tak, tried putting larger handles on the first models of high speed reels and the reels couldn’t handle the torque and would lockup or break. So everyone stayed with slower gears. Modern high speed reels (7:1-8:1 range, not the 10:1 reels), have had all of the bugs worked out and are capable of handling much larger handles without problems. Provided they have a solid and strong aluminum frame, and quality internals (hence the specify of Diawa and Shimano). Also cranks being a reaction bait, by using a higher speed real you can burn and pause causing the bait to jump as if it has deflected off of cover, creating a reaction bite. The higher speed reels allow you to do more with the bait with less fatigue. They also make more water efficiently and practically fishable. What I mean by that is say you’re target a point that has a few big rocks or a limb on it. Instead of reeling all of that time in each cast just to hit that rock or limb to get the reaction bite, you can more efficiently turn the entirety of the bottom contact of that cast into a reaction bite with less fatigue by not having to reel a slow reel at 90 miles an hour, you can reel a fast reel at a normal or slightly elevated pace. There is also another myth that the slower reel allows the bait to get deeper, that’s not true either. Hence the reason for reeling 90 miles an hour to get the bait down to the bottom. If however, your bait isn’t getting down on a fast retrieve, that means you either need to tune the bait or you’re buying crappy baits. For the really deep cranks I use a Daiwa Zillion HD 8:1, Tatula 150 7:1 and Shimano Tranx 200 7:1 but put 110mm and 120mm handles on the reel. This gives me the torque of a slower reel and allows me to fish the bait fast or slow without fatigue. Again adding a 5-10%, or whatever, increase in efficiency piling up into making my time on the water a better experience.
If you read all of this, you’re a champ. Sorry for the ridiculously long comment but hope sharing some of what I’ve learned helps you and saves you the trial, error and time it took me to learn it. Yes, I know, I’m a hardcore nerd when it comes to fishing. Lol!
Just use a bit slower or softer rod
Much appreciated!
Thanks so much for your in depth comment. You seem thoroughly knowledgeable and for sure I appreciate the details. I am struggling with the idea of using straight braid vs braid with a leader. This is such a controversial and situational subject, and I admit I don’t know what to do.
I generally fish waters with 1-3 feet of of visibility. Except for top waters, I use a fluorocarbon leader, as I am under the impression this ensures
the line can’t be seen by the fish. ( I know this is controversial and situational, generally applying to very clear water). Regardless , using leaders seems to be the setup most use. I want to try straight braid. Do you use straight braid for any other applications, and do you ever use a fluorocarbon leader? If no leader,do you color the line or anything? I would with gratitude appreciate your advice. Please expound!! Thanks!
@@jimkingsland1645 You’re welcome and thanks for the compliment. I use a little bit of everything depending on the technique and very specific locations/conditions. There is a time and place for everything. For frogging, punching, anything in thick grass, topwaters, and oversized cranking or trying to get a regular crankbait as deep as it will go I prefer straight braid. On everything else I prefer straight fluoro or braid to leader. On the topwater hard bait thing, maybe 99% of the time I use straight braid, 1% a mono/copoly or very short fluoro leader. That 1% being crystal clear water if I’m letting the bait sit for more than 3 seconds at a time. A lot of people have problems with braid catching the front treble of topwater hard baits, you can eliminate that by sliding a 4-6” long piece of clear uncut spinnerbait blade spacer tubes or by using a coffee stirring straw. Slide a sinker peg on the line, then straw/spacer, then tie the bait on and use the peg to keep the straw in place.
This mf needs his own TH-cam channel!! 🎉 good stuff man!!! 💯
I use Suffix 832 Moss Green 30 pound braid. On all my baitcaster and spinning reels. My best squarebill crank bait is KVD 1.5 Sexy Shad. Cast for cast. Catch for catch. Over 4 years fishing every month. I only lost one fish. I didn't retie the crank after 4 hours of fishing. No stretch and very sensitive to the touch. I caught 43 largies in 1 hr and 15 minutes. Using that crank and that braided line. Never had great luck with mono or Flourocarbon. Braid is far superior. Just my take after catching hundreds of Largemouth Bass over that period of time. I know many fishermen will dis agree. Shawn.
I’ve been doing this for decades, three things that should be said though. One use your drag! You want just enough to set the hooks, they hook themselves so well you can let them run all over the place. Even though this goes against everything you say about drag.😂 Two up size your split rings, even 20 braid will open them up. Three up grade your hooks, they will bend open especially if they are brass. My home lake is Okeechobee and with all the grass it makes it easier to get unhung and fish more efficiently.
I really like the seaguar braided line, it's smooth and casts a country mile like you said! Thanks for the tips Randy!
I cast mine 1/2mile then 🐦 🪹 . I hate braid
@@tonyb-50 adjust your brakes on the reel and if you can tie your line to a post and then walk back roughly 40 yards or so and then put on a piece of electrical tape on the reel. Once the tape is on the reel then wind up the line. Now you can use this and if it does backlash the line won't bury down into the spool nearly as far or as bad and it can easily be picked out and used. Learned this from a Bill Dance video. Hope this helps and you can do this same thing with mono as well.
In California, I do it all the time. Been doing it for decades. Water clarity averages 1-2 ft. I believe it gives much less vibrations than fluorocarbon puts off. Also, it isn't felt as easily as mono or fluorocarbon.
I only use it on spinning reel with a popping cork for speckle trout fishing and it does cast the cork a mile
I appreciate your comments about the use of braid and the flexibleness of your rod tip, ... would you comment of the use of drag also with the different lines. All my reels are set to the same poundage for the different lines I use, whether 8, 10 or 15 pound, braid or mono. It seems that all the heavy line users of 50, 60 and higher pound test have their drags set as high as they can go.
the max drag on most bait casters is below 25lb so it's not a problem, you can however break rods.
Not a big fan of trebles & braid...especially with big baits...smaller cranks & light braid i could see potential...like the abrasion resistance of mono over light braid..
Still like some stretch with trebles particularly on the bigger fish...baitcaster w/10-12 lb. Mono small-med cranks and 14 lb. on cranks up to an ounce...bigger, like 8XD & 10XD i throw on my swimbait rod w/20-25 lb. Mono...cuts down on the full depth, but still works OK
Grass pads and such is a good place. However like flipping pitching wood not so much.
I've been doing that for ages. In the past i used that in combination with a wire trace (7-strand) with a snap on one side and a swivel on the other. Coated or non-coated is a preference. Nowadays is use titanium wire which i tie together and end with a snap and sleeve crimped on. 😊 You dont want to feel a pike hit your lure 😮 and see it chase off into the water 😂 in Pike country.
Round and round 😅😅 even rounder and then rounder on top of that roundness😂😂. ~ Yes i started using a 0,08 mm/13 carrier line which is significantly thinner and rounder.
When i was young the MAIN purpose using braid was that you can pull entire bushes out of the ground 😂😂 We had to as bank fishermen 😢😢 seeing your lure land on a branch on the other side of a stream or canal 😵😵 can't have that. It cuts weeds, pads, herrons, ducks, a ghose gives a lot of blood be prepared for that 😁😁 shopping carts, bikes, bikes, bikes,.. another bike, bike bike, yesterday i even saw a left over part from a Triumph motorbike floating in the canal, road signs, baby-buggies, plastic seats EVERYTHING is in the water.🙄😋 Europe has more dense populated countries , which is good bc better regulated 😊😊. BUT i try to branch out to fc or co-polymar line but then i have to start using (the old) 7 strand again with a swivel & snap which is to much Weight on the front of your lure 😞😔. So still its braid on almost all my reels and verrrrry common practice along the watersedge ✌️😎👍
Been using straight braid on multiple rigs since braid came out! Just utilize a softer rod!
Yes lol also noticed the lure hooked to the guide eye on his rod😭😭😭
I’m nude straight braid when I crank, because I can feel everything, so I don’t get snagged to much. I just use a rod with good flex to help with the kushen, I mostly crank on my light bfs rod, with 8lb braid.
You know what's funny? B Lat just put out a short about never using braid with crank baits. I won't argue either way.
Just seen that video also. 🤔
I do braid to leader get a little stretch in the line
Man...I'm so glad your talking about this. I've been doing this for years. Other fishing buddies said I was crazy..
I used braid in Florida because the water was dark. I couldn't get an answer for line in clear water so I went to straight fluorocarbon. I love the sensitivity of braid but you can't make it invisible. I always go with the most cautious option.
Braid to leader is the best of both worlds
I have small bait casters not labeled as bfs, what is reason for spinning real? Thanks
I live in south Louisiana, most of my fishing is on tidal bodies of water, any advice? For larger fish, we catch on average 60 fish a trip here on the Mississippi Delta. I really like your vids.
Just to let you know live scope has no advantage here
You catch 60 fish a day and asking for advice? Lol
I don’t catch that in a year 😂
Lots of times the largest fish will be under schooling fish
So why not just use fluorocarbon since it sinks and helps get the crankbaits down? I hate fluorocarbon but I'm just curious why braid over that? Is it just the diameter and casting distant factors?
If you listened to the vid the braid is a thinner diameter so he's saying less resistance so the crank gets down deeper
I love braid but use a fluro leader always braid is horrible around rocks cuts like butter
Randy didn’t you just to a video like a month ago hating on braid?
@@tagg946 lol ya he kinda gets on my nerves too but a broken clock is right twice a day. There’s some things I agree with him on
@@tagg946 haha I missed that one! Not using snaps and big glides don’t work during summer 🙄
Thanks for more tips. Appreciate it
I use straight 30lb braid on Bladed Jigs. They swim better and tighter without a leader. I recently used straight 15lb suffix fluorocarbon on a Bladed Jig, it was so sloppy, off balance, really touchy
Exactly
Hey Randy great video!! Quick question,what size and brand hooks do u use to replace on the s crank 1.2. hooked up on a big cat fish that blew out both hooks.
Ok, stupid question. Do you have it hooked to the eyelet? And do you always do that? Because I was always told to never do it, but you’re a pro. So I’m just wondering
The s cranks cast a country mile, they land harder than than most crank baits, so further is better.
I just watched my first one of your videos right before I watched this one. In that previous video you said you would never use braid.....
People literally jump in your comment section and run their mouth before even watching your videos
Ain’t that true!
You know what else casts a mile because it's low diameter?
That same braid with a flouro leader lol
You’re forgetting about the weak link
@@randyblaukatintuitiveexactly
David Fritz is supposed to be one of the best crankers on earth. He is also a big braid guy for crankbaits.
This isn't a no-brainer given they're a fast moving bait...and especially ripping through weeds....been doing it for decades with 30lb braid 😎
Didn’t another youtuber make a vid on why not to do this 😂
I was talking about Braid to Flora carbon
th-cam.com/users/clipUgkx3zs5XwlPJYdEOL87AZMVLz2EUslNVuyl?si=hd3uxsP3XgYljPCo
Bass anglers realizing you don't have to do exactly what TH-camrs tell you
Anyone notice his flip flop on the braid!!?? 🙄🙄🙄
It’s not a flip-flop it’s situational
He clearly said that it was situational in the video.
Woman comment
@@xSWlMx 👈👈😆😆😂😂🤣
@@randyblaukatintuitiveEVERYTHING is situational.
If you want to get the party going, casting into the wind will test your patience like nothing else. Don't do it.
What I am guessing is, Randy said too much crap about PE line but he just realize he can sell more products if he says something good about PE. If you go through his videos, all most all of the videos, he strongly rejects PE, too visible, no stretch, a slack etc, but when he can make some more money, he will say something good about PE
I do not like braid , I hate it , for bass fishing
You said that you NEVER used Braid! WTF
@@Garminrules yep before you know it he will be using livescope
Been telling us don't use braid for crankbaits, and you've been using braid for crankbaits 🤔
And 99% of the time for the techniques you’re using Fluorocarbon or monofilament. This is a situational application.
if you are cranking properly the fish won't see braided line. zero need for leader