Safety tip: when disconnecting a 12V car battery, remove the negative terminal first, then while you're undoing the positive terminal there won't be any fireworks if your wrench accidentally touches any bare chassis parts. Similarly, replace the positive terminal first when reconnecting.
12v shock is not a danger. but 380a will turn a gold ring in to glowing red hot flesh burning molten disaster! 12v@380a=4.56kW some GOOD jumper cables and a used led battery could be a video but leave out the burning flesh. Not all car are negative ground, so remove ground first and connect last, weir no rings watches or any metal Juley.
@@cuepusher2504 _"12v shock is not a danger"_ -- no, but igniting hydrogen gas that's accumulated around the battery is. Actually, the risk of that is pretty slim these days. Maintenance-free/sealed batteries have almost eliminated any off-gassing. And of course, in a case like this you're only dealing with the lead acid battery for half the operation. The sodium/lithium batteries don't have the same ignition risk at all. But it's still a good habit to keep, because basic swap of batteries is well within the capabilities of a much larger number of people than those who can reliably identify the actual risk of a battery fire or explosion. Even with the fast diminishing risks in modern cars, one might as well stick with the safest procedures, just in case they are one day in a riskier situation that they wouldn't recognize. (Shorting through jewelry is pretty much impossible. The risk of a short here is the tool connecting between the battery terminal and ground; the electricity path isn't through the mechanic at all, nor anything they are wearing. In the incredibly unlikely event that there's actually a path from battery terminal, through a tool, touching jewelry, and then from there through the mechanic's body -- say, for example, they are using their other hand to lean on a grounded part of the car -- the person's body has too high resistance for much current to pass through any of all that, certainly nothing close to the 4+ kW you're worried about.)
Back when I learned about working on cars I was taught to always disconnect the negative side 1st. The reason is that, if you bump a grounded part it will short when working on the positive side if the ground is terminal connected, but it won't if disconnected, and there is no worry of bumping a grounded piece when disconnecting the ground terminal.
The major concern I’ve seen with using lithium and sodium batteries is the internal BMS will reject incoming charge and this can be a problem if the car’s 12v rail isn’t designed for this. In ICE vehicles, there’s a ton of noise on the 12v rail that gets absorbed by the lead acid battery, and there are EVs that have no mitigations for this. Earlier Teslas were apparently pretty notorious for this, and Tesla would void the warranty if you used one (Ohmmu has a page about this). If you see weird issues with your dash or some other systems, it’s possible it’s not handling the missing 12v battery buffer very well. I had considered changing out my Kia 12v battery for an Ohmmu, but worried about this specific problem, so ended up replacing it with a high quality AGM, which solved my problems. What I’d like to see in BEVs is a manual contactor engagement system. A dead 12v battery preventing a BEV from running is such a common and dumb issue, and I’ve seen arguments against BEVs using this as an example of why they’re bad. I don’t like keeping a jump starter in my car when there’s a giant 64kWh battery pack underneath it that can’t do anything to solve a dead 12v problem. Edit to add: To be clear, I’m looking forward to your experience with this battery. I’ve seen mixed reviews about them, but may be application problems and not product problems.
@@chidorirasenganz: You’re partially correct, though those (tesla’s) lithium batteries operate at ~16v rather than the usual 13.5-14.5v that regular “12v” batteries do. Just enough of a voltage difference to cause issues with jumping another vehicle.
It's light enough you could use some zip ties and styrofoam blocks. I believe the battery BMS is designed to work with lead acid charging system, this one also has a Connected app that monitors the battery come of course you pay a lot for that
@@rp9674: The OP here was raising concerns over going from lead-acid, which doesn’t have any BMS at all, to a lithium battery which DOES. With existing 12v systems, the charging of the 12v battery is controlled by the PDU of the vehicle itself, and the OP here was worried that the settings (in the vehicle’s PDU) for a lead-acid battery might cause problems with the BMS of a lithium battery (if I’m understanding him correctly).
@@chidorirasenganz As I noted, earlier Teslas had issues with these batteries. They had to re-engineer things to adopt their own 16v lithium based system. And it’s super weird they went 16v instead of leaping to 48v, honestly, because the accessory port (also referred to as the cigarette lighter port) also runs at 16v, and could fry some things! Tesla puts warnings about this on their cars. Could have gone 48v and do another step down to 12v on that port. Or omitted the port entirely. Since they had to basically rework things anyway.
Nice you are testing these new battery chemistries in real life. I replaced my 4 year old tesla battery with a new 12 volt tesla lead acid battery as I live in the desert and the high heat puts the battery under stress. It was reasonable. $150 replacement cost. Not too bad. :)
Thanks. I have thought about doing this for my Ioniq6 when the OG 12V dies (I want the Na battery). Very cool that we have more than one option. I didn't know about the Li 12V battery.
Lead-acid batteries of yore frequently lose their acid-sealing ability around the top posts, and minute acid leaks occur around the posts. Installing a felt ring impregnated with oil, or "battery grease" can prevent the acid getting to metal to corrode -- for a while. (any grease will do: dielectric grease, specifically, is really only req'd for HV connections, but "everyone" assumes that only DE grease should be used on any automotive connector, which is bunk. Chassis grease is fine for battery terminals. In the old days, OEMs recommended Vaseline by brand name). I want to mention proper top-post terminal installation etiquette/Best Practice: always make certain that the terminal is fully seated on the post, prior to tightening the clamp. This is very often not done, and the clamp range is almost always insufficient to properly clamp the post, unless the terminal is fully seated. There's a tool for this (I call it a "battery terminal speculum", but you buy it as a "battery terminal spreader") specifically for top-post batteries. You can make-do with a #3 flat screwdriver or combinations of pliers, but there really is a proper tool. Spreading the terminal open, fully seating it (assuming it's all clean!) and then tightening the clamp: that's the correct procedure. You should not be able to twist the terminal by hand after tightening the clamp. If you can, it's not tight, and something's wrong. End of today's lesson.
Every car owner should take moment to understand how to undo and replace a 12-volt battery in their car. A lot of cars are complicated now and you'll find oftentimes more than just two wires in some cases a whole assembly attached to the positive cable as is the case with my Volvo ev, and even my ice car that it replaced
I agree the weight difference of the new high tech versus a traditional battery is such a small percentage of overall weight the range difference would be less than 1 percent. The biggest advantage I see is the overall lifetime of battery life. Traditional lead batteries have lifetime from about 1 year to as much as 4 years. Many of the lithium batteries advertise 4 to 8 years.
Good idea. I'd say the reduced weight is worthwhile. Every little helps. For reasons explained by others I always undo the ground (earth) first and reconnect it last, and personally am very cautious with live positive conductive parts having had a spanner (wrench) and a metal oil pressure tube (ice) short to earth on a positive terminal before I learned that. I'll be interested in how it goes in the longer term.
Three years of High School training (electronics), and I never thought about keeping a "Jump Pack" in reserve in my electric-powered automobile. (You guys at 'TEN' are pretty Sharp. {Timely, as well. The chill in the air as Leaves Fall means "Death by Recycling" for MANY lead-acid batteries; whether they Awaken EVs, or 'Orrible ICE Machines.})
AGM Lead-Acid battery is a good compromise. I put one in our LEAF and it lasted over 9 years. Leakproof, maintenance-free, tolerates deep cycles better (than a conventional "flooded" Lead-Acid).
One of the best features I've seen on ICE Lithium batteries is the built in low voltage cutoff.. Knowing you /can/t flatten it and if you mess up, you can press the button on top and it'll give you that last 20% it is hoarding to it'self is an amazing feature. Especially on a bike where carrying a jumpstart is a bit impractical.
Question: what are the considerations between Lithium and Sodium options other than price? Also, my hybrid ate SLI style batteries fairly quickly. I don't think any lasted 3 years in the 8 years I owned the car.
I also put an Ohmmu battery in my 2013 Leaf, since the Pb battery was shot. The reason I heard is that Pb batteries are designed to dump a big current while starting an ICE car, which keeps the plates "clean", while an EV, since it never needs a huge starting current, allows the plates to build deposits which shortens battery life. Is that your understanding?
It's true that lead acid batteries are able to produce the high current required to drive a starter motor of an ICE (ignoring that starter motors have gotten lighter and more efficient over the years, so many don't actually draw nearly as much current as used to be the case). But, the idea that this high current would in some way be good for the battery, that doesn't seem likely to me. The deposits that build on the plates of a lead acid battery, build up as the battery is _discharged_. A fully charged battery will have little or no deposits on the plates in the first place, so nothing for a high current load to remove. If anything, high current situations are bad even for lead acid batteries. They can handle high load up to a point, but there are still limits, and if the battery discharges too quickly, the electrolyte nearest the battery plates gets depleted of the acid (the electrolyte solution can't diffuse/mix fast enough to keep the acid balanced) and the battery temporarily will lose voltage. As far as your 2013 LEAF's battery goes, I don't know if you had the same experience I did, but my experience with the car killing the lead acid 12V battery was completely unique to that iteration of the LEAF, which I also owned (a 2013, in fact) and didn't have much to do with the battery chemistry, other than the lead acid battery's sensitivity to deep discharge situations. That is, after I had the cellular radio upgraded from 2G to 3G, the new electronics had some kind of defect in which after charging the car to 100%, the cellular radio would draw an excessive amount of current for an extended period of time and drain the 12V battery, requiring it to be recharged before I could use the car again. Suffice to say, since lead acid batteries handle full discharge _very_ poorly, it only took a couple of iterations of this before I had to replace the 12V battery, twice. (Frankly, that whole situation was a complete fiasco, as it took months of wrangling with the local Nissan dealer just to get any action to resolve the issue, and that wrangling involved a lot of labor on my part, including reproducing the problem over and over, which of course accelerated the demise of both the 12V battery _and_ the car's drive battery, since the repro case involved repeatedly charging to 100%, something that just isn't good for any Li-ion battery, never mind the inferior one in those early LEAFs. The eventual fix was to disconnect the cellular radio altogether and do without the Carwings/connected-car features. Naturally, Nissan did not refund us the cost of the upgrade to the defective 3G radio.)
Since Lithium batteries don't like to be charged when below freezing, does it have an internal battery heater? That's the primary reason that I would get a lead acid replacement battery. I do have a similar battery jumper currently.
My 24kw Leaf's original 12v battery has only recently expired on an appropriately freezing cold evening. The car is 9 years old this month. Because i was stranded & 'needs must' i have replaced it with a Halfords own brand lead acid replacement that I'm sure won't last another 9 years(!) but given that its not cramking an engine over everytime the car is used, am not surprised the original lasted well. The best way to get a good lifespan from a lead acid battery ive found is to avoid at all costs letting one go flat. My only concern using a different chemistry would be how it would cope with the vehicle charging it when being designed for a lead acid battery?
I think the BMS is designed to work with the lead acid charging system. My EV 12v last about 3 to 4 years, slightly worse than my gas vehicles, 9 years is amazing
I have a Prius and replaced the battery recently with a Halfords battery. I was happy to buy it as it was in fact a Yuasa battery in Halfords labelling. It was exactly same spec, CCA, Ah, dimensions as the Yuasa branded one and came up as compatible with the car.
If this is one of their "Calcium Tech" batteries, you might get 2 years out of it; I think this is deliberate, as you then get it replaced under warranty - ad infinitum (3 year warranty), putting independent battery suppliers out of business. That was my experience with them, after fitting one; it would just die without warning around 18-22 months later; I went through the free warranty replacement scheme about 5 times, before getting pissed off at the random morning failures and fitting a Bosch Silver; which was still going strong 10 years later. Old tech Lead Acid could be revived from flat with no issues, these calcium tech batteries wont recover, and once run flat, will not hold a charge properly afterwards.
years ago i watched a video from a guy who replaced his car battery with a bunch of supercapacitors. those things had enough power to start the engine several times in a row.
I have a 2018 Nissan Leaf, and I put an Ohmmu in about a year ago. Been awesome so far, it fits better than the aftermarket AGM I had in there, and there have been no problem so far. I had some strange issues (one of the back doors would not lock) that came on last fall, and vanished with the Ohmmu, perhaps the AGM was getting a little tired.
You're braver than me to use the jump pack that way. It may have been the camera angle but it looked like you were super close the shorting the positive terminal to the chassis a couple of times. Personally I'd rather let the computer throw some random errors until it sorts itself out than risk it.
MY 2023 bolt came with a lithium battery and I was concerned about the charge voltage with the improvement as different chemistry require different charge float level.
I'm not going to chase it myself, but if someone knows the IPxx spec of these units, LMK. The last time I looked into drop-in 12v Li-ion replacements for lead-acid, none were anything close to waterproof, which is pretty much required in our wet Pacific NorthWet. I'm not installing a device that can't accept a standard garden hose washdown, it won't last here, and nothing under the hood of any modern car (post-distributor-having) is bothered by splashed water; replacement parts have to be designed at least to that standard. I've been DDing a 2014 RAV4 EV since 2017, a car especially noted for killing the OEM lead-acid battery in ~3 years regularly; there are dozens of posts about this (there were only ~2600 of these cars made). I knew this going in, so also in 2017 I bought my "standard" AGM battery as a replacement for the still-OK OEM one: Odyssey 34R-PC1500T, and expensive/premium AGM. My extended family & myself own three older Toyotas (two old Siennas plus the EV), and this exact model battery is in all of them. I am on year seven/70k miles with this battery, which would never happen with the OEM battery in this vehicle. It's not cheap, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with the three I own -- though the one mentioned is now my oldest. I paid a but less then $300 in 2017 and $305 in 2020; today, they are $385 + tax (free US shipping). It's 50 lbs. I like the _idea_ of a durable, lightweight alternative chemistry battery for lead-acid, but as others have noted, automotive systems that are designed around a lead-acid battery being permanently connected usually make use of that fact to dampen spikes and voltage variations at the battery; that's not typically the job of the DC-DC Converter. A Li-Ion (for example) will presumably disconnect from the vehicle when fully charged, and I'm not confident that the rest of the vehicle's systems will work reliably without the lead-acid's permanently-connected damping effect.
I've recently glanced over my 2015 Leaf's starter juice-box and it looks like it is the factory installed one as it says Nissan on the side. That would make it 9 years now. I might find some date markings with a closer inspection. It surely has not been replaced in the 6 years I have owned it. Some say the mini solar panel on the rear spoiler helps keeping the battery happy. However the car spends most days in an underground car park since 'rona. Hearing they die every 3 years makes me wonder if should put one in my trunk now ^^
Thanks, as always! I wonder if the newer chemistries will lead to longer battery life, or at least more predictable replacements. My old Ford Fusion hybrid had a silver-ion special battery, which had the specific effects of being expensive and only available from the dealer, but zero effects on longevity here in Arizona.
Already had the 12V battery on my 2017 replaced under warranty. When it goes out again I will be looking for something like one of these. Our 2023 Mach-E ended up getting bought back by Ford over what turned out to be a dodgy (but not completely failed) 12V battery. The dealer could not find the cause of the electronic gremlins, (including non-start situations). I told them to check the 12V battery, they said they checked it and it tested fine. Fast (not really) forward several months later and they tell me they can't find the problem and I should ask for a buyback. I told them to check the 12V battery again. They did finally change the 12V battery and it fixed all the problems but I had already started the buyback process.
I bought my Bolt in april 2017 and just changed out the factory battery this last month , not because it quit working it was just old and I didn't want to get stuck. I did test it before removing with a carbin pile tester and it didn't even lift the needle but the car would start every time even after the load test. What sucked about taking the old battery out was resetting the clock , the hilltop reserve for at home only and shutting the anti theft alarm for the charging cord off. But I basically got 7 years out of the factory battery and I don't know how much longer it would have gone.
I’ll be following this closely. As the lead acid batteries are just dandy for ICE vehicles, where there’s a drain but also regular charging. Which is what lead acid batteries like. But put them in an EV, and unless they get regular top-ups, they’ll drain too far much earlier than people have come to expect. As you say, EVs dong need high CCA batteries. What EVs do need, are batteries that are well suited to deep cycling. So I’ll be interested to see how the sodium battery performs.
A loose 10mm socket will vorp itself into inter dimensional space when you’re not looking.. same as socks in the wash.. nobody knows why, but we’ve all experienced it
You mentioned the battery was warming.. i would have felt better to hear about thermal management to a battery that is outside all year. Also is their a difference between the chemistry's for cold tolerance.. THX
I replaced the original AGM 12V battery in my i3 in October of 2023 after 6.5 years of service. It hadn't yet died, but I didn't want to push it to the point where I might get stranded or where I would have to do the job in the dead of a Rochester, NY winter. The replacement cost me a not-terrible $145 including shipping. Strangely, no NY State sales tax was charged by the NJ company that shipped it to me.
I tried the Ohmmu battery for my Tesla MX a few years ago. It came with the battery terminals reversed, so my wiring harness would not reach the proper terminals. Very expensive, about $350 at the time. I returned it & used a lead acid AGM battery from Tesla instead. Also, there have been problems/incompatibilities between the Ohmmu batteries and Tesla’s 12V charging system. Those get very annoying when one spends so much on the battery, and which isn’t especially easy to replace in older Teslas.
I wounder if there are similar alternatives (12v but with lithium, with higher capacity, current stability and or smaller weight) for trolling engines. Trolling motors for small boats are light and effective, but traditionall lead 12v batteries are both heavy and weak...
The 12v draw when running is also pretty high, and if the car isn’t generating that power from the traction battery it will run down VERY fast.. as I discovered last night when my ICCU decided to fail.. I could have made it home in limp mode except the 12v got drawn down in minutes and very soon the entire car was dead despite having about 78% in the main battery
Nikki - Regarding the Bolt battery replacement. I noticed that the footprint of the new battery is a bit smaller than the one you are replacing. Although you said the word "snug" after replacing the retainer, is the new battery still secure after being driven a bit?
Interesting as at some point I'll have to get a new battery for my vintage Volvo but the lead acid battery in it has lasted for 20 years now so lead acid seems good enough.
@@transportevolved Really?? A word search doesnt turn up any other reference to the clogged air vents, and I dont recall hearing it mentioned during the video; if it was - my bad.
@@ianemery2925 Yeah, in the last video we did, I mentioned that we'd had some massive storms pass through - (in the editorial note) and that we'd normally clear it. It's clear now - Nikki.
@@transportevolved OK, YT have never given me notice of that one - even though I am subscribed - that seems to be happening a lot; this is the first video that has popped up in at least, weeks. One channel i myself, and a good number of other people, keep getting unsubscribed from.
Lot's of animated discussion on the Ioniq5 forum about whether or not Ohmmu 12v Li battery is a good idea or not. Some seemingly knowledgeable EV techs there say that it's a terrible idea to use any 12v battery with its own internal BMS, as most Li 12v batteries have. Apparently the car's own primary BMS and the 12v BMS get into arguments from which no good, and much bad, results. Some Ioniq5 owners have swapped in AGM batteries, which some feel are better suited to EV charge/discharge patterns than old-school lead, and are happy. AGMs are still lead-based and have no internal BMS.
As someone who lives in high heat, high humidity what would I need to know about caring for either their lithium or their sodium battery? I drive a 2023 Bolt EV (lowest level trim) if that matters?
i built a 32ah lifepo4 battery for 50 usd. has a self heating relay circuit. confusing why these are so expensive. its been going well in my volt for the past 8 months. i posted a how to on the chevy volt 1st gen forums. saved 50lbs. similar weight savings to keeping only 1-2 gallons in the tank. the weight always adds up and the lower internal resistance of the battery and lower leakage current helps with range. saves about half a kwh each drive, so about 5 miles per day (two trips per commute). thats almost a dollar a day in fuel savings here in wa.
Question: Obviously the NOKO unit worked but did you ever encounter in an EV, a completely dead battery that exhibited a polarity issue and then use a NOKO to solve the problem? I know it works for ICE vehicles but never watched a similar video for an EV.
An AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) lead battery is better than a normal lead battery, but not as good as a lithium Ohmmu 12v battery, but less expensive than the Ohmmu. I've been using an AGM battery in my Kia EV6 for 2 years now. My normal lead battery went dead after 6 months in my Kia. FYI - I now have an Equinox EV. Never had a problem with my Bolt 12v battery after 4 years. GM does a better job at managing the 12v battery in their EVs.
@@islaws4589 Yes, it would have been, but we opted to spend the extra money for the AGM battery because we didn't want the same problem again 6 months later, and supposedly, Kia fixed the problem before our battery went out. Also, every time we went to the Kia dealer for a software update, they wanted to keep it overnight and the same thing for the Battery replacement. We were really tired of Kia's support of the EV6. We even had to do our own update of the software via a download to a USB thumb drive and update it ourselves in the EV6, which we never experienced before and that really disappointed us in Kia. We were told it would have over the air updates when we bought it. That is one among many reasons we now are back to GM with the Equinox EV. We don't do much DC fast charging, so the slow DC fast charging rate of the Equinox EV does not effect us much.
Not sure about the Bolt, but the Volt, at least (as well as most - all? - ICE) can maintain their 12v with the car off for days. I was surprised to find that Kia's EVs apparently cannot. 🤔
@@jameshiggins-thomas9617 _"I was surprised to find that Kia's EVs apparently cannot"_ -- well, it's not true that they cannot. My EV6 has been left as long as 3 weeks without being plugged in or driven, 12V battery was still 100% fine when I got back to it (drive battery had used around 6-7% over that time, so less than 0.5%/day drain from the 12V system.)
I drive a pre diesalgate diesal and I spend extra money on brakes, pads, tyres and the battery. And when I get an EV I don't expect that to change. Bad power equals screwed up electrics, saving money on a battery is a false economy.
I'm just thinking about the price of batteries in general, when you look at the price of Lithium ion cells they are getting cheaper with about 100USD per KwH, you didn't say how many KwH are in these batteries. But when I've looked on the internet at other battery packs they seem to cost much more than the cost of the battery cells, obviously it does need to be more because a battery pack is more than just the cells, but battery packs in general to seem to cost a lot more than the cost of manufacturing just the cells.
Hi Niki, I heard about this video from an email from TE. I came to TH-cam to watch it but couldn’t find it even when I went to the TE YT channel. I only found it via a link from Patreon. I think it may need re-publishing as it’s not being seen correctly and explains the low view count. Looking forward to see how these batteries perform.
Spooky! Just now, I found out that my Nissan Leaf wouldn't start anymore (with a nasty error message), and a google search confirmed to my relief my suspicion that it needs a new 12V battery instead of a potentially much more expensive proprietary part. I went to youtube to see if anyone had additional information, and THIS was the first video that popped up in my feed when I opened it (without any search yet). Isn't at least a bit spooky? 😅
other than habit, is there a reason we still have a 12 volt system? wouldnt we be better off with just the traction battery? that would make the car a 48 volt system, wouldnt it?
For modern EVs, the traction battery pack outputs upwards to 400v or 800v depending on the system in use (my Niro EV is currently fully charge with a traction battery voltage over 400v). I know there is a desire to use a 48v low voltage rail as it’s more efficient for the DC to DC converter and still relatively safe. The problem comes in that all “accessory” electronics (radio, dash, USB ports, etc) are currently designed for a 12v system. So a lot has to be re-engineered. Many car makers don’t make all of their own components and will integrate third party systems. So, at some point, we might see the move to 48v low voltage rail, but right now it’s not really viable.
These would be so much more affordable if not for the political tariffs on chinese cells and solar, but you wouldn't see any such tariffs on Chinese built ICE Buicks and Lincons
If you have a Model 3, don't buy a Ohmmu lithium battery. Total ongoing hassle. The sodium batteries much better. The bluetooth and disconnect the high voltage battery dance gets old.
I used to run it until it was dead, but AAA Battery Service doesn't seem to be as good as it used to and it can be a huge hassle, possibly even being locked out of your car
NEVER-NEVER-NEVER EVER wear rings or watches when working with electricity and especially batterys. 12v will burn your finger to the point that they'll say remove it. Short out a liteium battery and it will flash and more than a lead acid but both are dangerous. I've seen a socket wrench disappear in a flash when a installer let go and it shorted out a 24v battery plant.
@@harvey66616 Many Arc welders operate around 24 V . Would 24 VDC at 325 A melt a 5/8 in. dia. mild steel rod. It would take awhile but it sure will become hot quickly.
@@mikewallace8087 _" It would take awhile but it sure will become hot quickly"_ -- since the claim in the comment to which I was responding was _"I've seen a socket wrench disappear in a flash"_ , I'm at a complete loss to understand the relevance of your note. Yes, electrical current can make things hot. No one's disputing that, not even me.
@@harvey66616 I welded with high amperage AC / DC welders for pay. What is a socket wrench? There are sockets . Sockets fit onto ratchets , breaker bars, manual speed braces , electric and pneumatic impact drivers . I have seen sockets coupled bent square steel stock.
Safety tip: when disconnecting a 12V car battery, remove the negative terminal first, then while you're undoing the positive terminal there won't be any fireworks if your wrench accidentally touches any bare chassis parts. Similarly, replace the positive terminal first when reconnecting.
12v shock is not a danger. but 380a will turn a gold ring in to glowing red hot flesh burning molten disaster! 12v@380a=4.56kW some GOOD jumper cables and a used led battery could be a video but leave out the burning flesh. Not all car are negative ground, so remove ground first and connect last, weir no rings watches or any metal Juley.
That is taught in Auto Mechanics kindergarten .
Doesn't work for my '60 Hillman (positive ground) ;)
@@cuepusher2504 _"12v shock is not a danger"_ -- no, but igniting hydrogen gas that's accumulated around the battery is.
Actually, the risk of that is pretty slim these days. Maintenance-free/sealed batteries have almost eliminated any off-gassing. And of course, in a case like this you're only dealing with the lead acid battery for half the operation. The sodium/lithium batteries don't have the same ignition risk at all.
But it's still a good habit to keep, because basic swap of batteries is well within the capabilities of a much larger number of people than those who can reliably identify the actual risk of a battery fire or explosion. Even with the fast diminishing risks in modern cars, one might as well stick with the safest procedures, just in case they are one day in a riskier situation that they wouldn't recognize.
(Shorting through jewelry is pretty much impossible. The risk of a short here is the tool connecting between the battery terminal and ground; the electricity path isn't through the mechanic at all, nor anything they are wearing. In the incredibly unlikely event that there's actually a path from battery terminal, through a tool, touching jewelry, and then from there through the mechanic's body -- say, for example, they are using their other hand to lean on a grounded part of the car -- the person's body has too high resistance for much current to pass through any of all that, certainly nothing close to the 4+ kW you're worried about.)
Back when I learned about working on cars I was taught to always disconnect the negative side 1st. The reason is that, if you bump a grounded part it will short when working on the positive side if the ground is terminal connected, but it won't if disconnected, and there is no worry of bumping a grounded piece when disconnecting the ground terminal.
The major concern I’ve seen with using lithium and sodium batteries is the internal BMS will reject incoming charge and this can be a problem if the car’s 12v rail isn’t designed for this. In ICE vehicles, there’s a ton of noise on the 12v rail that gets absorbed by the lead acid battery, and there are EVs that have no mitigations for this. Earlier Teslas were apparently pretty notorious for this, and Tesla would void the warranty if you used one (Ohmmu has a page about this). If you see weird issues with your dash or some other systems, it’s possible it’s not handling the missing 12v battery buffer very well. I had considered changing out my Kia 12v battery for an Ohmmu, but worried about this specific problem, so ended up replacing it with a high quality AGM, which solved my problems.
What I’d like to see in BEVs is a manual contactor engagement system. A dead 12v battery preventing a BEV from running is such a common and dumb issue, and I’ve seen arguments against BEVs using this as an example of why they’re bad. I don’t like keeping a jump starter in my car when there’s a giant 64kWh battery pack underneath it that can’t do anything to solve a dead 12v problem.
Edit to add: To be clear, I’m looking forward to your experience with this battery. I’ve seen mixed reviews about them, but may be application problems and not product problems.
Not sure when you looked but Tesla has shifted to lithium based 12v batteries year or two ago
@@chidorirasenganz: You’re partially correct, though those (tesla’s) lithium batteries operate at ~16v rather than the usual 13.5-14.5v that regular “12v” batteries do. Just enough of a voltage difference to cause issues with jumping another vehicle.
It's light enough you could use some zip ties and styrofoam blocks.
I believe the battery BMS is designed to work with lead acid charging system, this one also has a Connected app that monitors the battery come of course you pay a lot for that
@@rp9674: The OP here was raising concerns over going from lead-acid, which doesn’t have any BMS at all, to a lithium battery which DOES. With existing 12v systems, the charging of the 12v battery is controlled by the PDU of the vehicle itself, and the OP here was worried that the settings (in the vehicle’s PDU) for a lead-acid battery might cause problems with the BMS of a lithium battery (if I’m understanding him correctly).
@@chidorirasenganz As I noted, earlier Teslas had issues with these batteries. They had to re-engineer things to adopt their own 16v lithium based system. And it’s super weird they went 16v instead of leaping to 48v, honestly, because the accessory port (also referred to as the cigarette lighter port) also runs at 16v, and could fry some things! Tesla puts warnings about this on their cars. Could have gone 48v and do another step down to 12v on that port. Or omitted the port entirely. Since they had to basically rework things anyway.
YES! I've been hoping for this. This could save money, headaches and hassles
@@rp9674 Or could create some
Nice you are testing these new battery chemistries in real life. I replaced my 4 year old tesla battery with a new 12 volt tesla lead acid battery as I live in the desert and the high heat puts the battery under stress. It was reasonable. $150 replacement cost. Not too bad. :)
Thanks. I have thought about doing this for my Ioniq6 when the OG 12V dies (I want the Na battery). Very cool that we have more than one option. I didn't know about the Li 12V battery.
Lead-acid batteries of yore frequently lose their acid-sealing ability around the top posts, and minute acid leaks occur around the posts. Installing a felt ring impregnated with oil, or "battery grease" can prevent the acid getting to metal to corrode -- for a while. (any grease will do: dielectric grease, specifically, is really only req'd for HV connections, but "everyone" assumes that only DE grease should be used on any automotive connector, which is bunk. Chassis grease is fine for battery terminals. In the old days, OEMs recommended Vaseline by brand name).
I want to mention proper top-post terminal installation etiquette/Best Practice: always make certain that the terminal is fully seated on the post, prior to tightening the clamp. This is very often not done, and the clamp range is almost always insufficient to properly clamp the post, unless the terminal is fully seated. There's a tool for this (I call it a "battery terminal speculum", but you buy it as a "battery terminal spreader") specifically for top-post batteries. You can make-do with a #3 flat screwdriver or combinations of pliers, but there really is a proper tool.
Spreading the terminal open, fully seating it (assuming it's all clean!) and then tightening the clamp: that's the correct procedure. You should not be able to twist the terminal by hand after tightening the clamp. If you can, it's not tight, and something's wrong.
End of today's lesson.
Great show , practical , informative and no politics.
Every car owner should take moment to understand how to undo and replace a 12-volt battery in their car. A lot of cars are complicated now and you'll find oftentimes more than just two wires in some cases a whole assembly attached to the positive cable as is the case with my Volvo ev, and even my ice car that it replaced
I agree the weight difference of the new high tech versus a traditional battery is such a small percentage of overall weight the range difference would be less than 1 percent.
The biggest advantage I see is the overall lifetime of battery life. Traditional lead batteries have lifetime from about 1 year to as much as 4 years. Many of the lithium batteries advertise 4 to 8 years.
I'm not sure about these at all, I like the weight advantage, but a high end lead acid with a 5 year warranty is well over 3 times cheaper to buy.
195... Great for you!!! Good luck with the new tech. Keep Evolving!
What does the Owners Manual say about the battery ? Do they have specifications ?
Any little lightening a EV helps. Not enough to pay for the difference for typical retail users, but even little things help.
Yes , like not always travelling with a bowling ball in your car.
Good idea. I'd say the reduced weight is worthwhile. Every little helps. For reasons explained by others I always undo the ground (earth) first and reconnect it last, and personally am very cautious with live positive conductive parts having had a spanner (wrench) and a metal oil pressure tube (ice) short to earth on a positive terminal before I learned that. I'll be interested in how it goes in the longer term.
😂 the "bowing" comment cracked me up
Three years of High School training (electronics), and I never thought about keeping a "Jump Pack" in reserve in my electric-powered automobile. (You guys at 'TEN' are pretty Sharp. {Timely, as well. The chill in the air as Leaves Fall means "Death by Recycling" for MANY lead-acid batteries; whether they Awaken EVs, or 'Orrible ICE Machines.})
AGM Lead-Acid battery is a good compromise. I put one in our LEAF and it lasted over 9 years. Leakproof, maintenance-free, tolerates deep cycles better (than a conventional "flooded" Lead-Acid).
One of the best features I've seen on ICE Lithium batteries is the built in low voltage cutoff.. Knowing you /can/t flatten it and if you mess up, you can press the button on top and it'll give you that last 20% it is hoarding to it'self is an amazing feature. Especially on a bike where carrying a jumpstart is a bit impractical.
My 4 year old bolt might be asking for a new battery this winter. Thanks for the advice about giving it temporary 12v during the process.
Question: what are the considerations between Lithium and Sodium options other than price?
Also, my hybrid ate SLI style batteries fairly quickly. I don't think any lasted 3 years in the 8 years I owned the car.
I also put an Ohmmu battery in my 2013 Leaf, since the Pb battery was shot. The reason I heard is that Pb batteries are designed to dump a big current while starting an ICE car, which keeps the plates "clean", while an EV, since it never needs a huge starting current, allows the plates to build deposits which shortens battery life. Is that your understanding?
It's true that lead acid batteries are able to produce the high current required to drive a starter motor of an ICE (ignoring that starter motors have gotten lighter and more efficient over the years, so many don't actually draw nearly as much current as used to be the case). But, the idea that this high current would in some way be good for the battery, that doesn't seem likely to me. The deposits that build on the plates of a lead acid battery, build up as the battery is _discharged_. A fully charged battery will have little or no deposits on the plates in the first place, so nothing for a high current load to remove.
If anything, high current situations are bad even for lead acid batteries. They can handle high load up to a point, but there are still limits, and if the battery discharges too quickly, the electrolyte nearest the battery plates gets depleted of the acid (the electrolyte solution can't diffuse/mix fast enough to keep the acid balanced) and the battery temporarily will lose voltage.
As far as your 2013 LEAF's battery goes, I don't know if you had the same experience I did, but my experience with the car killing the lead acid 12V battery was completely unique to that iteration of the LEAF, which I also owned (a 2013, in fact) and didn't have much to do with the battery chemistry, other than the lead acid battery's sensitivity to deep discharge situations. That is, after I had the cellular radio upgraded from 2G to 3G, the new electronics had some kind of defect in which after charging the car to 100%, the cellular radio would draw an excessive amount of current for an extended period of time and drain the 12V battery, requiring it to be recharged before I could use the car again. Suffice to say, since lead acid batteries handle full discharge _very_ poorly, it only took a couple of iterations of this before I had to replace the 12V battery, twice.
(Frankly, that whole situation was a complete fiasco, as it took months of wrangling with the local Nissan dealer just to get any action to resolve the issue, and that wrangling involved a lot of labor on my part, including reproducing the problem over and over, which of course accelerated the demise of both the 12V battery _and_ the car's drive battery, since the repro case involved repeatedly charging to 100%, something that just isn't good for any Li-ion battery, never mind the inferior one in those early LEAFs. The eventual fix was to disconnect the cellular radio altogether and do without the Carwings/connected-car features. Naturally, Nissan did not refund us the cost of the upgrade to the defective 3G radio.)
Since Lithium batteries don't like to be charged when below freezing, does it have an internal battery heater?
That's the primary reason that I would get a lead acid replacement battery.
I do have a similar battery jumper currently.
My 24kw Leaf's original 12v battery has only recently expired on an appropriately freezing cold evening. The car is 9 years old this month. Because i was stranded & 'needs must' i have replaced it with a Halfords own brand lead acid replacement that I'm sure won't last another 9 years(!) but given that its not cramking an engine over everytime the car is used, am not surprised the original lasted well.
The best way to get a good lifespan from a lead acid battery ive found is to avoid at all costs letting one go flat.
My only concern using a different chemistry would be how it would cope with the vehicle charging it when being designed for a lead acid battery?
I think the BMS is designed to work with the lead acid charging system. My EV 12v last about 3 to 4 years, slightly worse than my gas vehicles, 9 years is amazing
I have a Prius and replaced the battery recently with a Halfords battery. I was happy to buy it as it was in fact a Yuasa battery in Halfords labelling. It was exactly same spec, CCA, Ah, dimensions as the Yuasa branded one and came up as compatible with the car.
If this is one of their "Calcium Tech" batteries, you might get 2 years out of it; I think this is deliberate, as you then get it replaced under warranty - ad infinitum (3 year warranty), putting independent battery suppliers out of business.
That was my experience with them, after fitting one; it would just die without warning around 18-22 months later; I went through the free warranty replacement scheme about 5 times, before getting pissed off at the random morning failures and fitting a Bosch Silver; which was still going strong 10 years later.
Old tech Lead Acid could be revived from flat with no issues, these calcium tech batteries wont recover, and once run flat, will not hold a charge properly afterwards.
Went to Ohmmu website. Couldn't get any technical specs on these batteries, like capacity in amp hours, max current draw, etc.
years ago i watched a video from a guy who replaced his car battery with a bunch of supercapacitors. those things had enough power to start the engine several times in a row.
I saw that too! The individual with the Honda CRV iirc?
Intriguing stuff!
Supercapacitors will lose their charge fairly quickly. If you get 3 days of adequate storage you'd be lucky.
leaves in the cowl vent...OCD raging.
Yeah, we did warn everyone last episode ;) They're gone now ;)
I have a 2018 Nissan Leaf, and I put an Ohmmu in about a year ago. Been awesome so far, it fits better than the aftermarket AGM I had in there, and there have been no problem so far. I had some strange issues (one of the back doors would not lock) that came on last fall, and vanished with the Ohmmu, perhaps the AGM was getting a little tired.
Eager to see how this goes as the Tesla community has been trying a version of this battery for sometime with decidedly mixed results
You're braver than me to use the jump pack that way. It may have been the camera angle but it looked like you were super close the shorting the positive terminal to the chassis a couple of times. Personally I'd rather let the computer throw some random errors until it sorts itself out than risk it.
MY 2023 bolt came with a lithium battery and I was concerned about the charge voltage with the improvement as different chemistry require different charge float level.
I'm not going to chase it myself, but if someone knows the IPxx spec of these units, LMK. The last time I looked into drop-in 12v Li-ion replacements for lead-acid, none were anything close to waterproof, which is pretty much required in our wet Pacific NorthWet. I'm not installing a device that can't accept a standard garden hose washdown, it won't last here, and nothing under the hood of any modern car (post-distributor-having) is bothered by splashed water; replacement parts have to be designed at least to that standard.
I've been DDing a 2014 RAV4 EV since 2017, a car especially noted for killing the OEM lead-acid battery in ~3 years regularly; there are dozens of posts about this (there were only ~2600 of these cars made). I knew this going in, so also in 2017 I bought my "standard" AGM battery as a replacement for the still-OK OEM one: Odyssey 34R-PC1500T, and expensive/premium AGM. My extended family & myself own three older Toyotas (two old Siennas plus the EV), and this exact model battery is in all of them. I am on year seven/70k miles with this battery, which would never happen with the OEM battery in this vehicle. It's not cheap, but I haven't had a lick of trouble with the three I own -- though the one mentioned is now my oldest. I paid a but less then $300 in 2017 and $305 in 2020; today, they are $385 + tax (free US shipping). It's 50 lbs.
I like the _idea_ of a durable, lightweight alternative chemistry battery for lead-acid, but as others have noted, automotive systems that are designed around a lead-acid battery being permanently connected usually make use of that fact to dampen spikes and voltage variations at the battery; that's not typically the job of the DC-DC Converter. A Li-Ion (for example) will presumably disconnect from the vehicle when fully charged, and I'm not confident that the rest of the vehicle's systems will work reliably without the lead-acid's permanently-connected damping effect.
I've recently glanced over my 2015 Leaf's starter juice-box and it looks like it is the factory installed one as it says Nissan on the side. That would make it 9 years now. I might find some date markings with a closer inspection. It surely has not been replaced in the 6 years I have owned it. Some say the mini solar panel on the rear spoiler helps keeping the battery happy. However the car spends most days in an underground car park since 'rona. Hearing they die every 3 years makes me wonder if should put one in my trunk now ^^
Thanks, as always! I wonder if the newer chemistries will lead to longer battery life, or at least more predictable replacements. My old Ford Fusion hybrid had a silver-ion special battery, which had the specific effects of being expensive and only available from the dealer, but zero effects on longevity here in Arizona.
Affects and effects have different meanings. Figure it out.
@mikewallace8087 Or don't be a douchbag. Try figuring that out.
Already had the 12V battery on my 2017 replaced under warranty. When it goes out again I will be looking for something like one of these.
Our 2023 Mach-E ended up getting bought back by Ford over what turned out to be a dodgy (but not completely failed) 12V battery. The dealer could not find the cause of the electronic gremlins, (including non-start situations). I told them to check the 12V battery, they said they checked it and it tested fine.
Fast (not really) forward several months later and they tell me they can't find the problem and I should ask for a buyback. I told them to check the 12V battery again. They did finally change the 12V battery and it fixed all the problems but I had already started the buyback process.
@@raitchison It's the best place to start with any electrical fault but unlike your dealer, you know this 😉👍
I bought my Bolt in april 2017 and just changed out the factory battery this last month , not because it quit working it was just old and I didn't want to get stuck.
I did test it before removing with a carbin pile tester and it didn't even lift the needle but the car would start every time even after the load test.
What sucked about taking the old battery out was resetting the clock , the hilltop reserve for at home only and shutting the anti theft alarm for the
charging cord off.
But I basically got 7 years out of the factory battery and I don't know how much longer it would have gone.
Product/brand naming is difficult: brand of that battery sounds like "oh, grandma" in Finnish, or "oh, ghost" in Tagalong (Filipino).
I’ll be following this closely. As the lead acid batteries are just dandy for ICE vehicles, where there’s a drain but also regular charging. Which is what lead acid batteries like. But put them in an EV, and unless they get regular top-ups, they’ll drain too far much earlier than people have come to expect.
As you say, EVs dong need high CCA batteries. What EVs do need, are batteries that are well suited to deep cycling. So I’ll be interested to see how the sodium battery performs.
Heck, I'm impressed you were able to find a 10mm socket. lol
It's a standard automotive size. ..
@@transportevolved 10mm sockets are notorious for running away and hiding.
@@tomrossman9371Yep. I have four near-complete socket sets. Only one 10mm socket between the four.
A loose 10mm socket will vorp itself into inter dimensional space when you’re not looking.. same as socks in the wash.. nobody knows why, but we’ve all experienced it
You mentioned the battery was warming.. i would have felt better to hear about thermal management to a battery that is outside all year. Also is their a difference between the chemistry's for cold tolerance.. THX
Boeing/bowing - nice one!
What you didn't see was our camera person corpsing off-camera ;)
@@transportevolved 😁
Does the Lightning not have the extra battery under the back seat? (I have the Powerboost, with a batshit crazy 3 batteries).
I replaced the original AGM 12V battery in my i3 in October of 2023 after 6.5 years of service. It hadn't yet died, but I didn't want to push it to the point where I might get stranded or where I would have to do the job in the dead of a Rochester, NY winter. The replacement cost me a not-terrible $145 including shipping. Strangely, no NY State sales tax was charged by the NJ company that shipped it to me.
I tried the Ohmmu battery for my Tesla MX a few years ago. It came with the battery terminals reversed, so my wiring harness would not reach the proper terminals. Very expensive, about $350 at the time. I returned it & used a lead acid AGM battery from Tesla instead.
Also, there have been problems/incompatibilities between the Ohmmu batteries and Tesla’s 12V charging system. Those get very annoying when one spends so much on the battery, and which isn’t especially easy to replace in older Teslas.
I heard the early Ohmmu batteries did have issues, I've had no problems after installing mine in my 2018 model 3.
I wounder if there are similar alternatives (12v but with lithium, with higher capacity, current stability and or smaller weight) for trolling engines. Trolling motors for small boats are light and effective, but traditionall lead 12v batteries are both heavy and weak...
The 12v draw when running is also pretty high, and if the car isn’t generating that power from the traction battery it will run down VERY fast.. as I discovered last night when my ICCU decided to fail.. I could have made it home in limp mode except the 12v got drawn down in minutes and very soon the entire car was dead despite having about 78% in the main battery
Nikki - Regarding the Bolt battery replacement. I noticed that the footprint of the new battery is a bit smaller than the one you are replacing. Although you said the word "snug" after replacing the retainer, is the new battery still secure after being driven a bit?
Contrasting with the F-150, which had almost the exact same case.
Thanks
Interesting as at some point I'll have to get a new battery for my vintage Volvo but the lead acid battery in it has lasted for 20 years now so lead acid seems good enough.
My biggest cringe wasnt the +ve first choice, or the lack of grease - it was the dead leaves clogging up the air vent cover.
We’ve already discussed that…
@@transportevolved Really?? A word search doesnt turn up any other reference to the clogged air vents, and I dont recall hearing it mentioned during the video; if it was - my bad.
@@ianemery2925 Yeah, in the last video we did, I mentioned that we'd had some massive storms pass through - (in the editorial note) and that we'd normally clear it. It's clear now - Nikki.
@@transportevolved OK, YT have never given me notice of that one - even though I am subscribed - that seems to be happening a lot; this is the first video that has popped up in at least, weeks.
One channel i myself, and a good number of other people, keep getting unsubscribed from.
@@ianemery2925 eek! WE promise we're not doing it - It's frustrating though. :( _ Sorry
Lot's of animated discussion on the Ioniq5 forum about whether or not Ohmmu 12v Li battery is a good idea or not. Some seemingly knowledgeable EV techs there say that it's a terrible idea to use any 12v battery with its own internal BMS, as most Li 12v batteries have. Apparently the car's own primary BMS and the 12v BMS get into arguments from which no good, and much bad, results. Some Ioniq5 owners have swapped in AGM batteries, which some feel are better suited to EV charge/discharge patterns than old-school lead, and are happy. AGMs are still lead-based and have no internal BMS.
Any obvious advantages for the Ohmmu batteries over lead acid battery? (other than weight, and new vs old)
They last longer.
Best consult the manufacturer if they approve the Ohmmu .
"like all things bowing ..." 😂🤣😂
As someone who lives in high heat, high humidity what would I need to know about caring for either their lithium or their sodium battery? I drive a 2023 Bolt EV (lowest level trim) if that matters?
You will be okay , more people pass from the cold than expire from the heat.
i built a 32ah lifepo4 battery for 50 usd. has a self heating relay circuit. confusing why these are so expensive. its been going well in my volt for the past 8 months. i posted a how to on the chevy volt 1st gen forums. saved 50lbs. similar weight savings to keeping only 1-2 gallons in the tank. the weight always adds up and the lower internal resistance of the battery and lower leakage current helps with range. saves about half a kwh each drive, so about 5 miles per day (two trips per commute). thats almost a dollar a day in fuel savings here in wa.
Question: Obviously the NOKO unit worked but did you ever encounter in an EV, a completely dead battery that exhibited a polarity issue and then use a NOKO to solve the problem? I know it works for ICE vehicles but never watched a similar video for an EV.
An AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) lead battery is better than a normal lead battery, but not as good as a lithium Ohmmu 12v battery, but less expensive than the Ohmmu. I've been using an AGM battery in my Kia EV6 for 2 years now. My normal lead battery went dead after 6 months in my Kia. FYI - I now have an Equinox EV. Never had a problem with my Bolt 12v battery after 4 years. GM does a better job at managing the 12v battery in their EVs.
6 months?!? That would have been a warranty issue surely?
@@islaws4589 Yes, it would have been, but we opted to spend the extra money for the AGM battery because we didn't want the same problem again 6 months later, and supposedly, Kia fixed the problem before our battery went out. Also, every time we went to the Kia dealer for a software update, they wanted to keep it overnight and the same thing for the Battery replacement. We were really tired of Kia's support of the EV6. We even had to do our own update of the software via a download to a USB thumb drive and update it ourselves in the EV6, which we never experienced before and that really disappointed us in Kia. We were told it would have over the air updates when we bought it. That is one among many reasons we now are back to GM with the Equinox EV. We don't do much DC fast charging, so the slow DC fast charging rate of the Equinox EV does not effect us much.
I know they're supposed to be better, but I'm unimpressed with AGM
Not sure about the Bolt, but the Volt, at least (as well as most - all? - ICE) can maintain their 12v with the car off for days. I was surprised to find that Kia's EVs apparently cannot. 🤔
@@jameshiggins-thomas9617 _"I was surprised to find that Kia's EVs apparently cannot"_ -- well, it's not true that they cannot.
My EV6 has been left as long as 3 weeks without being plugged in or driven, 12V battery was still 100% fine when I got back to it (drive battery had used around 6-7% over that time, so less than 0.5%/day drain from the 12V system.)
I'm interested to see how these work out in the long run.
Long Runs take time .
I drive a pre diesalgate diesal and I spend extra money on brakes, pads, tyres and the battery. And when I get an EV I don't expect that to change. Bad power equals screwed up electrics, saving money on a battery is a false economy.
Bought one on your advice.
REALLY you put down $300+ on their advice ?
@@mikewallace8087 199 Hi Mike!
I'm just thinking about the price of batteries in general, when you look at the price of Lithium ion cells they are getting cheaper with about 100USD per KwH, you didn't say how many KwH are in these batteries. But when I've looked on the internet at other battery packs they seem to cost much more than the cost of the battery cells, obviously it does need to be more because a battery pack is more than just the cells, but battery packs in general to seem to cost a lot more than the cost of manufacturing just the cells.
Hi Niki, I heard about this video from an email from TE. I came to TH-cam to watch it but couldn’t find it even when I went to the TE YT channel. I only found it via a link from Patreon. I think it may need re-publishing as it’s not being seen correctly and explains the low view count.
Looking forward to see how these batteries perform.
TE publishes videos early for Patreon. That is normal and doesn’t impact “the algorithm.”
Spooky! Just now, I found out that my Nissan Leaf wouldn't start anymore (with a nasty error message), and a google search confirmed to my relief my suspicion that it needs a new 12V battery instead of a potentially much more expensive proprietary part. I went to youtube to see if anyone had additional information, and THIS was the first video that popped up in my feed when I opened it (without any search yet). Isn't at least a bit spooky? 😅
Apparently bowing is a sign of freeze damage.
other than habit, is there a reason we still have a 12 volt system? wouldnt we be better off with just the traction battery? that would make the car a 48 volt system, wouldnt it?
Most automotive systems are 12V. Traction batteries can come at up to 800V, which would be utter overkill for things like headlights or the radio.
For modern EVs, the traction battery pack outputs upwards to 400v or 800v depending on the system in use (my Niro EV is currently fully charge with a traction battery voltage over 400v). I know there is a desire to use a 48v low voltage rail as it’s more efficient for the DC to DC converter and still relatively safe. The problem comes in that all “accessory” electronics (radio, dash, USB ports, etc) are currently designed for a 12v system. So a lot has to be re-engineered. Many car makers don’t make all of their own components and will integrate third party systems. So, at some point, we might see the move to 48v low voltage rail, but right now it’s not really viable.
@bedast consider that it took nearly a half century for auto makers to switch from 6V to 12V.
@@downix no, not overkill, if you crank the voltage you can lower the amperage and make the system safer.
@@bedast so it is just a habit, expensive to break, but even more expensive not to break.
No TEN episode!
Did I mis something?
No, it was Thanksgiving.
These would be so much more affordable if not for the political tariffs on chinese cells and solar, but you wouldn't see any such tariffs on Chinese built ICE Buicks and Lincons
Yeah, if you did that with 20 kg lead acid batteries I'd be impressed 🙂 🏋
Oh noo!!!
If you have a Model 3, don't buy a Ohmmu lithium battery. Total ongoing hassle. The sodium batteries much better. The bluetooth and disconnect the high voltage battery dance gets old.
Someone out there with a classic Unigate milk float has now got a smile on their face, hitting the roundabouts sideways.
Was expecting a review from the title 😞
This is a long-term review, so this is the introduction to the video.
@@transportevolved suggest to update the title that this is the kick-off with a long term review coming
@@flemlion13 We'll add "Intro"
The best way to avoid 12V battery problems is to routinely replace the battery every 3-4 years.
I used to run it until it was dead, but AAA Battery Service doesn't seem to be as good as it used to and it can be a huge hassle, possibly even being locked out of your car
@ I doubt AAA carries replacement batteries for Teslas, plus changing the battery on older MS and MX is too invasive for them.
Happy Trump month channel :)
T.E. Has TrumpMuskphobia . T.E. cancels culture and if you don't the consequences will be dire.
NEVER-NEVER-NEVER EVER wear rings or watches when working with electricity and especially batterys. 12v will burn your finger to the point that they'll say remove it. Short out a liteium battery and it will flash and more than a lead acid but both are dangerous. I've seen a socket wrench disappear in a flash when a installer let go and it shorted out a 24v battery plant.
24V vaporizing a socket wrench? I call B.S.
@@harvey66616 Many Arc welders operate around 24 V . Would 24 VDC at 325 A melt a 5/8 in. dia. mild steel rod. It would take awhile but it sure will become hot quickly.
@@mikewallace8087 _" It would take awhile but it sure will become hot quickly"_ -- since the claim in the comment to which I was responding was _"I've seen a socket wrench disappear in a flash"_ , I'm at a complete loss to understand the relevance of your note.
Yes, electrical current can make things hot. No one's disputing that, not even me.
@@harvey66616 I welded with high amperage AC / DC welders for pay. What is a socket wrench? There are sockets . Sockets fit onto ratchets , breaker bars, manual speed braces , electric and pneumatic impact drivers . I have seen sockets coupled bent square steel stock.
Ohmu batteries are an expensive waste of money.
I'm not unhappy with mine, but each to their own.
@@darmou did you install and operate that battery ?
@@mikewallace8087 Yes I installed it myself. I've had no alerts or issues since install a few months ago.
The word is Bat er e's not Bat Trees .
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