Put the magnet back into the pan. On my old '68 Fury with 727 I did the same thing. After getting stronger u joints it was the best thing I did for both performance and fuel mileage.
Even if you're not racing positive shifts cause Less friction which helps a transmission to last longer because it lowers the Heat slipping clutchs caused a lot of heat so a positive shift less heat more life and more fun when you can chirp 2nd and 3rd gear
Im no expert but I've built a few 4l60e and I only use a wide band along with corvette servo, I also do a tight clearance on my 3-4 clutch pack .060 to .086 is way to much in my opinion ive been shooting between .030 to .035 and ive been happy lol.
Richard from Precision Transmission should make a reaction video for this. He'd just about have a heart attack, starting with that cheap Chinese drain plug that leaves like 2 liters and all the debris in the pan.
And he would have thrown those garbage plastic pistons in the garbage can and replaced with aluminum and raised to the top the 1-2 accumulator and totally blocked the 3-4 accumulator with two pistons so there would be full pressure to the 3-4 clutch packs for no slip positive engagement!
I’ll also add some ... put a 1/4 turn on the epc to get more line psi, add a corvette servo and maybe add a shim in the servo(if needed). Plus a .500 boost valve on top of swapping the plastic pistons with pinless accumulators plus adding the right deep filter and getting a dorman pan with the drain plug already in it. All these things could easily be done in the truck* plus all this could have been done without removing the crossmember or even loosening the exhaust in most cases. Js had over 5years in the trans industry.
@Hakim Smailliw you are wrong been using petroleum jelly to assemble transmissions for years. It completely dissolves in trans fluid and is safe to use...
Interesting but you installed the wrong filter and it will cause a problem. You needed to use a deep pan filter like the one you took off. You installed a shallow pan filter which can fall off.
Put some thread locker on that drain plug. I didn't and my plug came out while on the highway. I was lucky because I pulled off after losing drive and got towed home before I burned up my new trans.
I hope you guys plan on putting that magnet back in because that could save you a lot of trouble down the road cuz you don't want them little chunks floating around back into the transmission it's always going to shed a little bit of metal in you'd rather not have that floating around in your valve body
Thank you for the great video. Do you have a part number for the drain plug you installed? Also is there a reason why you didn't change the shift solenoids?
At 4:02 do yourself a favor. Throw away the nylon washer and o-ring and get yourself some rubber/steel sealing washers. They're used on OTR trucks and heavy equipment.
Love the truck but don’t like the mopar stripe on the fender
4 ปีที่แล้ว +8
That drain plug is crap as none of that residue will drain out as the internal nut is way to thick and will vibrate loose. Take the pan to a weld shop and have them weld a real drain plug onto the pan.
That drain plug kit is not designed to drain the residue out. It is meant to drain most of the fluid out and then pull the pan for service. The idea is to make the servicing of the filter less messy. I agree real drain plug welded in or a pan with one already in it would be better.
You helped me decide whether I want to drop the valve body just to do the pinless piston in the 3-4 accumulator. And whether check balls will fall out from the tranny above (the horror). With all your upgrades, you chose to keep the 3 plastic accumulator pistons unchanged. I really don't wanna drop the valve body, cause I'm scared of going that deep. Would it be dumb to upgrade only the 1-2 and FWD accumulator pistons?
Some observations; First he removes the magnet from the pan after saying what a great innovation it is, noting that he will put the drain plug in its place. Hmm is the drain plug magnetic? I guess it really doesn't matter because he places the drain plug several inches from the magnets location. The magnet should never be removed unless it has deteriorated to the point it needs to be replaced. Second, the pistons are both plastic, and should always be replaced with aluminum pistons. The center hole in the piston wears and gets oblong. causing a leak and pressure loss. Third, you installed the shallow pan filter which will not pickup fluid like the deep pan filter you took off and should have replaced. This filter also may use a different plastic round retainer that will not fit the smaller filter causing it to fall of and may cause catastrophic damage to the unit.
Replace that crappy plastic piston in that 4L60E! Sonnex makes an aluminum replacement for cheap and it has a double O-ring for batter sealing and stability. After all, you're trying to improve longevity and plastic has no business in that heat-soak environment. I really liked the end result of that flat black paint job.
Your talking about the pinless accumulator pistons I love those, was chasing what I thought was a worn TCC valve but when I blocked it still had that hard 1-2 shift. Turns out it was the forward accumulator piston(brand new aluminum) was leaking through the pin. Replaced the forward along with the 1-2 accumulator piston with the pinless and it felt like a new tranny, firm shifts but not hard it was nice.
I have the exact same truck but an 05. It has performance shorty headers, aftermarket Magnaflow exhaust, cold air intake, hot plugs and wires, and a performance Diablo tune. When I "race" it, I just push to "tow mode" button on the gear shift and it changes the shift points perfectly. I've handed ass-whoopins to several supposedly fast/sports-type cars on the dig. Newer models at that: Nissan Maximas, VW GTI, Infiniti G35, etc. I know these aren't big torque type cars, but my truck is easily nearly double the weight of these cars. Try it.
Looking for an episode where they were building a motor (cant recall if it was a 302 or a sbc) and before the main bearings were put in, they used the old main bearing to notch a small groove to enlarge the oil valley and then drill two holes in the near bearing.
And if you don't want to get your hands dirty you can use a Diablo tuner and just add shift psi and put your shift points exactly where you want them. Im not saying it will do your 4L60E any favors but you can very easily improve your E.T. by doing this.
But at least you'll have a lot less fluid to screw with than you would if you didn't. I'd rather deal with a pint of residual fluid than I would with several quarts when popping the pan loose.
@@robertemmons2260 why go with a half-baked job when you can: 1. actually make a proper drain plug, 2. simply buy an aftermarket pan that has a proper drainplug built in?
Using any extension on a torque wrench gives a false, low setting, especially when dealing in inch-pounds and low foot-pound settings. I sure hope they used either a formula or a conversion chart to get the correct setting; if you are going to the "trouble" of using a torque wrench, at least do all you can to make sure the fastener is seeing the correct amount of torque.
How bout the plate where the one ball smashes almost completely through the plate, or the Tcc regulator circuit that wears out and eats converters and 3-4 clutches
I know in this video is 2 years old but I need to say something. They used the wrong valve body and case gaskets. and the separator Plate is a round hole square hole and the gaskets they used are a around hole round hole. the lockup will not work correctly and eventually cooked the transmission. And the icing on the cake they use a shallow filter on a deep pan. Nice way to starve it of fluid and send it off to a quick death.
Ok watched this for years finally got some experience lol decade or so. STOP Telling ppl bs the ls series motors.. now this. These guys know that you cannot do this reliably at all in any way. Pisses me off. They know a factory sunshell cannot hold any close to 450 ft lbs ever even for a second. Bull shit. This sinereo throw the 4l60e away and buy a high mileage working 4l80e. Not cool jerry your showing ppl learning that this is ok to do. Its not the transmission will not slip at all before the factory sunshell strips the slines these dude grew up like me with the 700r4 4l60 then the 4l60e. NOTHING NEW... This will not fix the transmission or make it anymore perofrmance. This is meant for an upgrade parts transmission or towing not 100hp and a shit ton torque. It will mechanically break. And this whole cool thing they r doing hp turners does with the ecu. Waste of time and money. 4l60e throw away after it breaks which it will unless its 100% stock. Put a better trans in or buy a turner that does this. Makes no sense at all. This is not a th350
Wouldn’t you want to leave the magnet out? If it is grabbing the metal bits, I would not be comfortable draining the fluid without taking out the magnet. Unless drilling a hole in the pan is only to avoid a mess when future draining. In that case, I’d accept the mess
Everything wrong about this video. 1- wrong filter used 2-wrong gaskets installed 3- not replacing plastic pistons. 4- not upgrading worn boost valve. WTH POWERNATION?
Put the magnet back into the pan. On my old '68 Fury with 727 I did the same thing. After getting stronger u joints it was the best thing I did for both performance and fuel mileage.
Send it to Richard from Precision Transmissions ! 😉
Love his videos. He knows a hell of a lot of stuff.
Dam! You beat me to this comment hah
Right
He would be scratching his head and call these guys dummies. Lol
Perfect timing. I'll be tackling this job on my truck this week. Thanks!
Even if you're not racing positive shifts cause Less friction which helps a transmission to last longer because it lowers the Heat slipping clutchs caused a lot of heat so a positive shift less heat more life and more fun when you can chirp 2nd and 3rd gear
Im no expert but I've built a few 4l60e and I only use a wide band along with corvette servo, I also do a tight clearance on my 3-4 clutch pack .060 to .086 is way to much in my opinion ive been shooting between .030 to .035 and ive been happy lol.
Richard from Precision Transmission should make a reaction video for this. He'd just about have a heart attack, starting with that cheap Chinese drain plug that leaves like 2 liters and all the debris in the pan.
Or that they used a shallow filter in a deep pan
And he would have thrown those garbage plastic pistons in the garbage can and replaced with aluminum and raised to the top the 1-2 accumulator and totally blocked the 3-4 accumulator with two pistons so there would be full pressure to the 3-4 clutch packs for no slip positive engagement!
Also should have used sonnax accumulator pistons or at least an aluminum piston...
I’ll also add some ... put a 1/4 turn on the epc to get more line psi, add a corvette servo and maybe add a shim in the servo(if needed). Plus a .500 boost valve on top of swapping the plastic pistons with pinless accumulators plus adding the right deep filter and getting a dorman pan with the drain plug already in it. All these things could easily be done in the truck* plus all this could have been done without removing the crossmember or even loosening the exhaust in most cases. Js had over 5years in the trans industry.
@MrDrmorbid Richard is the GOAT 🐐
PRECISION TRANSMISION IS A GREAT CHANNEL TO WATCH
I just had my transmission rebuilt and had a shift kit put in. it's worth it. BTW my car is an 08 impala anniversary edition.
Nice 👍
@@kingcustomgarage66 thank you!
Petroleum jelly is used for all aspects of rebuilding a transmission it won't hurt the transmission
@Hakim Smailliw you are wrong been using petroleum jelly to assemble transmissions for years. It completely dissolves in trans fluid and is safe to use...
Interesting but you installed the wrong filter and it will cause a problem. You needed to use a deep pan filter like the one you took off. You installed a shallow pan filter which can fall off.
Put some thread locker on that drain plug. I didn't and my plug came out while on the highway. I was lucky because I pulled off after losing drive and got towed home before I burned up my new trans.
That happens to know one ever!!! Use a torque wrench next time
@@brian_jake it was torqued. I had installed a deep oil pan before installing the new trans and I torqued all the bolts myself.
Goofy bastard
Lol, red locktite so it will never come out.
Pressure regulator. Its called a boost valve. They wear, sonnax sells a new one. That will work with this shift kit
Thank you for the show and for what you all teach !
Dude read my comment
Careful what u see here bro a 4l60e doesnt work like this at all
I hope you guys plan on putting that magnet back in because that could save you a lot of trouble down the road cuz you don't want them little chunks floating around back into the transmission it's always going to shed a little bit of metal in you'd rather not have that floating around in your valve body
That single cab is so frickin beautiful 😍
Thank you for the great video. Do you have a part number for the drain plug you installed? Also is there a reason why you didn't change the shift solenoids?
I'm sticking my two cents in because I am a transmission Rebuilder
At 4:02 do yourself a favor. Throw away the nylon washer and o-ring and get yourself some rubber/steel sealing washers. They're used on OTR trucks and heavy equipment.
Love the truck but don’t like the mopar stripe on the fender
That drain plug is crap as none of that residue will drain out as the internal nut is way to thick and will vibrate loose. Take the pan to a weld shop and have them weld a real drain plug onto the pan.
Yeah that or just buy the OEM pan with the drain plug for $40.
That drain plug kit is not designed to drain the residue out. It is meant to drain most of the fluid out and then pull the pan for service. The idea is to make the servicing of the filter less messy. I agree real drain plug welded in or a pan with one already in it would be better.
@@charleshensley2018 Yeah without the drain... that's why it's called "spill & fill" 😂
You helped me decide whether I want to drop the valve body just to do the pinless piston in the 3-4 accumulator. And whether check balls will fall out from the tranny above (the horror). With all your upgrades, you chose to keep the 3 plastic accumulator pistons unchanged. I really don't wanna drop the valve body, cause I'm scared of going that deep. Would it be dumb to upgrade only the 1-2 and FWD accumulator pistons?
Some observations; First he removes the magnet from the pan after saying what a great innovation it is, noting that he will put the drain plug in its place. Hmm is the drain plug magnetic? I guess it really doesn't matter because he places the drain plug several inches from the magnets location. The magnet should never be removed unless it has deteriorated to the point it needs to be replaced. Second, the pistons are both plastic, and should always be replaced with aluminum pistons. The center hole in the piston wears and gets oblong. causing a leak and pressure loss. Third, you installed the shallow pan filter which will not pickup fluid like the deep pan filter you took off and should have replaced. This filter also may use a different plastic round retainer that will not fit the smaller filter causing it to fall of and may cause catastrophic damage to the unit.
Did something very similar to my 4r70w known as a JMOD. A lot more fun to drive and apart from the new gaskets... IT'S FREE
Pull your cooler lines blow air both ways. Intro a clear container. Look for debris in the cooler. Might need a converter
Replace that crappy plastic piston in that 4L60E! Sonnex makes an aluminum replacement for cheap and it has a double O-ring for batter sealing and stability. After all, you're trying to improve longevity and plastic has no business in that heat-soak environment. I really liked the end result of that flat black paint job.
Your talking about the pinless accumulator pistons I love those, was chasing what I thought was a worn TCC valve but when I blocked it still had that hard 1-2 shift. Turns out it was the forward accumulator piston(brand new aluminum) was leaking through the pin. Replaced the forward along with the 1-2 accumulator piston with the pinless and it felt like a new tranny, firm shifts but not hard it was nice.
I have the exact same truck but an 05. It has performance shorty headers, aftermarket Magnaflow exhaust, cold air intake, hot plugs and wires, and a performance Diablo tune. When I "race" it, I just push to "tow mode" button on the gear shift and it changes the shift points perfectly. I've handed ass-whoopins to several supposedly fast/sports-type cars on the dig. Newer models at that: Nissan Maximas, VW GTI, Infiniti G35, etc. I know these aren't big torque type cars, but my truck is easily nearly double the weight of these cars. Try it.
Hmm Exact same truck except its a .. with a .. and a ..., exact same truck huh??
I love how the camera man gets minimum protection in the paint booth...😵
I knew it do you forgot to put one spring 8:58 good luck. really helping video to
They tell you to look at the accumulator pistons where the pin goes. They wear out?
Looking for an episode where they were building a motor (cant recall if it was a 302 or a sbc) and before the main bearings were put in, they used the old main bearing to notch a small groove to enlarge the oil valley and then drill two holes in the near bearing.
When was this episode filmed? I feel like i watched this on tv a long time ago, years ago.
You probably did filmed like 2006
Copyright tag at end of the video. 2013.........
They don't tell you the valve at 5:55 is a bee itch to get out sometimes. I've had a few seize in the valve body making it junk
the anser is 8HP70 baby
lost me at 4l60e............
We use power probe in car audio also.
Why didnt you change the pistons out with metal ones those gm plastic pistons always crack. And a corvette servo would help as well
And if you don't want to get your hands dirty you can use a Diablo tuner and just add shift psi and put your shift points exactly where you want them. Im not saying it will do your 4L60E any favors but you can very easily improve your E.T. by doing this.
Where is the video where the truck was at the strip?
the forward accumulator piston should be replaced with alum. before adding that increased pressure spring plastic piston will crack
So with the way the drainplug sticks up into the transmission oil pan you'll never be able to fully drain the pan's contents?
Yeah, that's why I tig welded my nut to the bottom of the pan.
But at least you'll have a lot less fluid to screw with than you would if you didn't. I'd rather deal with a pint of residual fluid than I would with several quarts when popping the pan loose.
On some vehicles you got a bolt and No plug or valve just a threaded hole it screws into and it’s all flush. That seems like a much better design.
@@robertemmons2260 why go with a half-baked job when you can: 1. actually make a proper drain plug, 2. simply buy an aftermarket pan that has a proper drainplug built in?
I'm not through the whole video yet. But do they say to replace the epc? Because the new one with the small plug sticks and acts up?
Know this old, but where can i buy that plug retrofit for the pan?
Is there a reason the 3-4 accumulator spring was not installed?
Don't put the plastic accumulator piston back in. Go with an aluminum no hole one. They don't cost that much when doing an upgrade like this.
This is why God made mechanics......
Using any extension on a torque wrench gives a false, low setting, especially when dealing in inch-pounds and low foot-pound settings. I sure hope they used either a formula or a conversion chart to get the correct setting; if you are going to the "trouble" of using a torque wrench, at least do all you can to make sure the fastener is seeing the correct amount of torque.
that has been proven to be a myth. idiot
How long did sum like this take
How bout the plate where the one ball smashes almost completely through the plate, or the Tcc regulator circuit that wears out and eats converters and 3-4 clutches
Check your plastic accumulators. They crack newer trans vb gaskets say. Vb. Ca.
4l60e .. rebuilt to many of those in school
outstanding!!!
Put a turbo on project stroker stang
Will a shift kit increase transmission life?
Stator bushings? Sunshell. Pump rotor blows apart on newer models. Im open to questions guys
Need to take that piston with the pin in it a toss it in the trashcan and get a sunex pinless piston kit
2 holes in the plate align the plate to the trans.
I’m looking for the first episode on this truck
Power Nation*🌠 Car Engineering Workshop Very Best🌠👍👍👍🌠🌠🌟🌠🌠.
Should've replaced the plastic accumulator with a Sonnex one
I know in this video is 2 years old but I need to say something. They used the wrong valve body and case gaskets. and the separator Plate is a round hole square hole and the gaskets they used are a around hole round hole. the lockup will not work correctly and eventually cooked the transmission. And the icing on the cake they use a shallow filter on a deep pan. Nice way to starve it of fluid and send it off to a quick death.
Plastic screens on your separator plate can collapse and clog
I thought sure you would replace that plastic forward accumulator piston sine you went to that much trouble.
Low reverse ball in the case can come out
I sure would like 2 improve the shifting on my 02 ram1500 4x4
Get a corvette servo
Thats easy, Buy a GM Product!
put the friggin magnet back in! Precision transmission would not approve of this entire trans mod upgrade
Reusing that plastic accumulator piston made me cringe!
PT wouldn't approve!
They did
THEY DID
Like a Pneumatic computer ....
Diesbt the long extension mess with the final torque
is this from 2012 lol
Need to do this to my Trailblazer.
Same
Why in the world did you make this chevy look like a ford ranger?
What’s with that Huge gap on the front bumper? 😳
They put the wrong filter in the Transmission. It should of had the deep pan filter.
Arent these episodes a few years old?
Yes they are. This network has gone to hell. Nothing good to watch any more.
2013 as per the copyright tag at end....
Lol dude put the wrong filter in
125 hp doesnt seem like much...
What a recipe for disaster!!
Ah the days back when saying "trans scat kit" didn't trigger my PTSD.
Why would you reinstall used plastic pistons? Those need to go in the trash
Ok watched this for years finally got some experience lol decade or so. STOP Telling ppl bs the ls series motors.. now this. These guys know that you cannot do this reliably at all in any way. Pisses me off. They know a factory sunshell cannot hold any close to 450 ft lbs ever even for a second. Bull shit. This sinereo throw the 4l60e away and buy a high mileage working 4l80e. Not cool jerry your showing ppl learning that this is ok to do. Its not the transmission will not slip at all before the factory sunshell strips the slines these dude grew up like me with the 700r4 4l60 then the 4l60e. NOTHING NEW... This will not fix the transmission or make it anymore perofrmance. This is meant for an upgrade parts transmission or towing not 100hp and a shit ton torque. It will mechanically break. And this whole cool thing they r doing hp turners does with the ecu. Waste of time and money. 4l60e throw away after it breaks which it will unless its 100% stock. Put a better trans in or buy a turner that does this. Makes no sense at all. This is not a th350
How to kill a perfectly great transmission in the next 10 miles 101.
This is a recipe for disaster.
wrong filter
😁✌🖖👌👍😎very cool
Wouldn’t you want to leave the magnet out? If it is grabbing the metal bits, I would not be comfortable draining the fluid without taking out the magnet. Unless drilling a hole in the pan is only to avoid a mess when future draining. In that case, I’d accept the mess
Please dont go by this video. Please
Everything wrong about this video.
1- wrong filter used
2-wrong gaskets installed
3- not replacing plastic pistons.
4- not upgrading worn boost valve.
WTH POWERNATION?
These host need to come back. I dont like the southern accent dude. He just bugs me
But he's always the coolest guy in the room. How can you not listen to him and not be in awe of how cool he is?
@@RedXray that's my area of the world. You should hear the French Canadians up in northern maine
@@RedXray I live in maine my self. Southern maine has a typical accent. Bit northern maine is crazy. But I love it!!!
@@RedXray Car keys sounds like khakis.
@@RedXray They use to many RRRRRRRRRR's in their language.
How to burn up your clutches in 10 miles 101
This video is full of incorrect info.
HAAAA they put the wrong filter in. They put a shallow pan filter in. They had a deep pan. Lol. Bull ish show
What kinda made up word is lifted?
Factory drain is located at the indent in front of the magnet. That's the proper location. Why wouldn't you research this. So ignorant of the show
1st
And?
+Ethan Hessong It's the greatest feeling in the world.
basshead, you must still be a virgin...
+chaosseat Winning is better than sex.
+catsaretasty You think winners don't get laid?
I would've installed a deeper aluminum transmission pan with a drain plug?
Gravel voice is grating