The 94 dislike is from people who never finish a concrete job like pro and get jealous watching mike and his crew also the professional girl mag the concrete 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
For those people concerned about the lack of chairs under the wire, remember this: These ‘slab on grades’ (SOG) that they’re doing, have complete bearing on compacted soil. If this were an ‘elevated slab’, like a 2nd or 3rd floor etc, the requirement for the top and bottom rebar, are that they only be ¾” from the top of the slab and ¾” from the bottom (2 cm). The reinforcement is most effective the closer you can get it to the top or bottom surface. The course aggregate in the concrete just happens to be screened to ¾” (what a coincidence) so once some of the course agg gets under the wire, it can’t get all the way back down.
@@Btown605 That’s exactly where it is. A sketch would be helpful to explain the forces going on, but imagine a wooden beam. Draw a vertical row of 3 dots on the face of the beam. One dot ¾” from the top, one ¾” from the bottom and one in the middle. Then one inch horizontally away from those dots, draw 3 more dots spaced exactly the same. Then apply a downward force right between the rows. You would find the top 2 dots get closer together (compression) and the bottom 2 dots spread further apart (tension). These are the same 2 forces that will be applied to this concrete slab. Concrete does very well under compression by itself, so no top reinforcing is required. Concretes Achilles heel is tension, so that’s why the reinforcing is installed at the bottom. Getting back to the beam, you would also notice that the spread between the 2 middle dots stays stationary. Proving that the middle is under neither tension nor compression. That is why engineers never mind holes being drilled thru the middle (to an extent, of course) of beams, joists or slabs. That’s also why you’ll never find very much steel in the middle of a concrete beam or slab. It’s all concentrated at the top and bottom bcz that’s where all the forces are happening. Reinforcing in the middle of a beam or a slab is useless.
Mike's instructional videos are the best! My wife and I watched them multiple times before pouring our first 10'x12' pads in our building. I couldn't have done it without the excellent instructions and detailed videos. Thanks for the awesome content!
I was about to ask about the anchor bolts when you mentioned them right at the end. You guys are clearly professional grade. Seen other videos that seemingly know nothing about anchor bolts! The foundation guys gotta have a set of prints. One thing thats apparently not as common any more is setting a course of block around the perimeter to build off of- keeps the plate completely away from any water or shop fluids, etc. Great job - nice crew 👍
What a gravy job man! Looks great. I do commercial jobs and they can be so much work. This looks like a walk in the park for you guys! As some guys say... "Easy Money!". Great video Mike. Keep them coming.
Love your videos been following you for about five months now, I'll be doing my own slab soon. keep up the great work, the pride and attention to detail are top-notch.
Hey mike! I have watched countless of your videos and what I haven’t seen is on the power trowel, knowing to start out with the blades pitched or flat and what to look for to know when to change the pitch. I have poured a couple pads and have fiddled with the pitch a little but am not experienced enough to know what I’m looking for when I do it. Thanks for all your wisdom!
Great content, keep it up. Could you add a time stamp to various stages of the pour in future videos, so the working times can be established? Thanks for the education, much appreciated.
I enjoy your videos. I'm new to the concrete business and work for a major supplier in my area. I use your videos for my own personal training. Thank you!
I'm curious, this is a fairly large slab and it is for a detached garage so I'm curious why there are no footers? Although local codes will obviously vary, if you are building walls and a roof, why don't you need footers?
Yes in a 24 x 47 Slap for back yard garage shop storage Area. Three car Garage bay doors. From yard porch 10 CEO slab. Drive ways 10 CEO on 2 and walk ways 4x20 and 3 x 20
Nice job Great tutorial very helpful! me and my two sons are going to try and pour a 21 x 21 garage slab inside 8 inch cinderblock walls with expansion joint all the way around the perimeter. i’m having a little anxiety about it. if there’s any pointers, you can give me that would be a big help.! I think my biggest challenge is I only have the two garage doors entering the garage and a man door on the back of the garage at the end of the side wall! I have poured little sidewalks and a little pads, but nothing more than that, and so I thought I would reach out to a professional to get some good tips and directions on having a a successful pour Thank you, Vincent.
Hi there. I plan to put a garage which backs up to a 3m hill cut wall. Do I build from there or do I leave a gap from the wall. What would you do? Tks for sharing.
Good Afternoon, I plan on pouring a concrete patio and i currently have a sand (fill dirt) base, do I need to pack the sand, add a gravel layer, and pack again to complete the base preparation?
Its surprising how old school it is back east..im assuming its east coast.I been a concrete contractor 42 yrs on the west coast 2 guys would pour this and one guy hand finish it...a lil small for a machine imo..hand rod with a 14' aluminum.I dont see any kickers on the forms either thats different.I worked on crews that had 100 finishers 10 ten man crews just one ten man crew was expected to have 17-20 homes poured a day 6 days a week.It was down to speed and science i dont miss it.We had many pours that were 900-1000 yards at once.Its kind of nice seeing how its done out there main thing is that there having fun.
I notice you did not put plastic down before the concrete went in. What would plastic do if anything if you use it? I wish the guy I helped watched this video. We had to pump the concrete on a cold day( about 25 degrees in the morning) the tubes had ice in them clogging up the concrete it took an hour to finally get the tube free. We had many problems but in the end the concrete was setting at the end and difficult to trowel. The concrete had excelerator in it and I’m wondering what was our problem? The slab was 30’ x 20’. Your site was really neat, no crap getting in the way. Thank you for a great video. 👍👍👍
Hi Mike, very nice and informative videos. Thanks so much! Question: I’m about to prepare a 40x40 feet slab ( under roof) in south Florida. It’s under a new home on stilts, in order to have a cleaner surface for my ground floor. The home has concrete stilts. Each of the stilts has its own concrete foundation below grade. There is about 2 feet of sand that was poured over the foundation. - My question is, can I pour my 4 in concrete directly onto the sand? Of course I’ll be using rebar for stability. - Also, should I divide the surface in several smaller sections, or can I pour it all at once? - Last question, is there any specific concrete if I want a polished final surface? Thanks for your input
Is it not necessary to install a stone base under the slab for expansion? How does the soil not freeze and heave the slab? In Pa, a much warmer climate we are required to use stone base. I'm confused. Thx Mike
I just did a slab for a 12x24 and it didn't quite turn out as good as I wanted but given the fact that me and my kids did it I can live with the few flaws it has. At least its perfectly square and flat, fairly smooth and just a few flaws in it so I can live with that. Definitely not a professional job lol.
What a great share, MD - I'm readying to start a project just like this and your expertise is immensely appreciated. Any chance you can recommend slabbers in GA, TN, and FL, please feel free to recommend. It can be a tough landscape out there to find someone as meticulous as you and your team so, I like to do my research before hiring or even considering a DIY project like this. Good things to you & yours!
I always sample the base for a slab to find its stability. If you are pouring next to a house or an area by house that has a ground pitch towards the house you may have some very wet ground which is unstable so i compact in a couple yards of class 5 crushed limestone for a good base. Some soils are naturally good or house was back filled with stable soil a base like a rocky clay and sand. So if you dont see yellow rock it doesnt mean the soil wont suffice.
I am going to concreate a 15x15 garage floor. How do I get the ground ready to and level to concrete? Do I just dig up the ground? Do I use sand and gravel ?
I am curious. If a jutterbug is not used the agregate will not be pushed down and I was wondering if this might cause spauling in the winter time when temperatures are below freezing.
Love the video's. I'm doing a 30x30 pad parking area. But instead of one large pad I'm doing it in a grid pattern. Each square will be 7' square. I will be using rebar. Any other advise. Should I use expantion joint to go up against existing slab.
I’ve been watching your videos. I want to pour a slab from my driveway to a shop building that is currently just a grass area. It is 55 by 25 feet. I thought of breaking this up into several pours so I don’t overload myself. What would be your recommendation on size of an area for a diy’er pour if I have 5 people with me to pour it. Your videos have been awesome.
Mike, Thanks for the great videos. I'm a concrete contractor in Oshawa, Ontario Canada. I'm going to use your training videos to train my new guys. I have a bunch right now. Also I have a question. I need to cut a perfect vertical saw cut in a finished retaining wall. Any Ideas? Jim
Hi James, thanks for the comment. I've got a lot of good training videos in The Concrete Underground, my training academy. Plus you get access to me also for questions and knowledge that I have. www.theconcreteunderground.com/the-concrete-underground If I had to cut a perfect vertical saw cut, I'd need some kind of guide to rest the saw against. What kind of saw are you using?
Yeah I'm going to pour my own pad. I had two contractors come out. One contractor wanted to charge me 15,000 just to pour a pad and then I had another guy come out and he wants to charge me $4,000 just to set the pad but I'm thinking I can do it myself. It's a 16x29. I've been watching your videos. I think I can do this myself
I live in upstate VT and pouring my own slab for my garage. Couple questions about our climate. 1. Do i need any type of frost protection? Also, is 4" too thin? Do i need to do 6"?
Thank you for sharing, I am looking at doing a 27X42 slab that I can put a car port on, I maybe foolish but I was thinking of doing it my self with 80lb. bags
I'm trying to get a garage built in my backyard. Once I get the trees removed, what is considered to be optimal thickness, 4" or 6"? I'll be putting in one lift at a later date, and having a steel building installed over the slab. I'm going to prep everything, but want a solid thickness for longevity and support
gonna be doing my own pour entrance to a driveway 24w x 30l first ever pour 4 inches thick but its on a slope so wish me luck learned a lot on your video thanks! do you think the fiber and the and the rebar are absolutely necessary? I was told you just need one or the other.
Yes I poured concrete when I was younger you know as a helper I've helped do walls and and slabs and sidewalks and I just can't remember do I need a special grade of cement for a garage which I'm going to park vehicles in for strength it's 4 in enough can you make 4 inch just as strong as our stronger than a 6 in and when you put your 6x6 steel wire mesh and instead of rebar do you put like a little spacer on it so it'll be like in the center of the cement when it's poured and not laying right on the ground it have more structural significance if about the center of the poor wouldn't it and can you just brush finish that slab you don't have to have it smooth and you sealer and do you need a moisture barrier I hope that's not too many questions please let me know something thank you thank you very much
Just looking around. Good video. I do want to remark about sawed joints: I see this had been a trend in the past decades (especially of driveways), but I hate them - they chip, and its because of stress concentration at a sharp edge; corners (at intersecting cuts) chip even worse. Rounded edges last MUCH longer - the life of the slab - and stress concentration (reduction of) is the reason why.
Doing my own slab. I would like to know what is the best way to manage the concrete as coming off the truck. Also, I would like to know what slump number the consistency of the concrete should be so it is easy to rake and level the concrete. I tried an only a one-time long time ago bad experience but I am still willing to learn.
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over an existing sewer line running through the property. For instance adding a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running out the back of an existing home out under the slab and garage.
Gotta do a slab over an old a chicken barn slab it's in good shape but a lot of cracks, perimeters are solid and deep.can I drop a new pad over that? It's been there for 75 years and hasn't moved up and down.just wonderin
Hey Mike, when pouring small jobs like sidewalks , at what point should I go from mixing sakrete to having concrete delivered? Also do you think the quality of your typical 4000 psi sakrete is as good as what I would get delivered from the local concrete company? Thanks
Jeff, the quality is different in the ready mix, especially for exterior concrete. You get air-entrainment if you're in an area with freeze/thaw. If not, it's not as much of an issue. I wouldn't mix more than about 10-15 bags before I decided to call for a yard of ready mix.
Would I need a footing and rebar in a 10' x 24' X5 inch slab for a addition on the back of my garage? The property is in West Michigan with all compacted sand ground. I noticed no footing in your garage slab.
Mike when you are running that vibra screed along the wet pads are you running the blade level with the pads or leaving the ends up 1/4 or so? In the video it looks like your running the ends just a little off the wet pads. Thanks
I was a contractor/builder for years so I'm handy but I have only done very small pours, like shed pads and sidewalks. I'm thinking of replacing my rotting deck with stamped concrete. The sides will have about 24-30" of facing and the pad will be about 16x40 with steps. Thinking it could be too large for just me.
I'm wanting to build a garage with a room above the garage. Do I need to pour a slab with a thicker outer footer to support the 2nd floor weight? Or would a 6in slab be enough?
Hey Mike, I appreciate your videos. Hypothetically would you take a job helping pour and form only? Just come for the day and help professionally pour, smooth, and finish? Thanks
Mike, i love your videos. Im going to do my driveway and ive done a little concrete the past 40yrs. When do i need expansion joints plse, thx, keep it up
Every 15 to 20 feet you need expansion joints and of course always place expansion joints against existing concrete if you are pouring and butting up to any existing crete. Cut in control joints with your jointer wherever you think there's a spot where the concrete could crack, like coming off of a corner or something.
What if I want a slab in my back yard but I have neighbors on each side in a neighborhood with only 6” gates on each side? About 75” from the road to where I need the slab.
I’m building a block garage 37 wide by 45 deep. Block walls 16ft tall. I’ve poured 20 by 14 before but nothing as large as what I’m planning. Concrete will be 4000 psi with fiber and #3 rebar. Do you have any tips?
Man, your daughter is a working machine.. She'd out work 99 % of the people in my area. You've got a good crew they always make it look easy.
The 94 dislike is from people who never finish a concrete job like pro and get jealous watching mike and his crew also the professional girl mag the concrete 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Mike Day is the uncle I wish I would’ve had growing up.
Haha, thanks Nathan!
For those people concerned about the lack of chairs under the wire, remember this:
These ‘slab on grades’ (SOG) that they’re doing, have complete bearing on compacted soil. If this were an ‘elevated slab’, like a 2nd or 3rd floor etc, the requirement for the top and bottom rebar, are that they only be ¾” from the top of the slab and ¾” from the bottom (2 cm). The reinforcement is most effective the closer you can get it to the top or bottom surface. The course aggregate in the concrete just happens to be screened to ¾” (what a coincidence) so once some of the course agg gets under the wire, it can’t get all the way back down.
Nice explanation, thanks.
For this type of slab why wouldn’t you want the reinforcement in the bottom 1/3 of the slab?
@@Btown605 That’s exactly where it is.
A sketch would be helpful to explain the forces going on, but imagine a wooden beam. Draw a vertical row of 3 dots on the face of the beam. One dot ¾” from the top, one ¾” from the bottom and one in the middle. Then one inch horizontally away from those dots, draw 3 more dots spaced exactly the same. Then apply a downward force right between the rows. You would find the top 2 dots get closer together (compression) and the bottom 2 dots spread further apart (tension). These are the same 2 forces that will be applied to this concrete slab. Concrete does very well under compression by itself, so no top reinforcing is required. Concretes Achilles heel is tension, so that’s why the reinforcing is installed at the bottom.
Getting back to the beam, you would also notice that the spread between the 2 middle dots stays stationary. Proving that the middle is under neither tension nor compression. That is why engineers never mind holes being drilled thru the middle (to an extent, of course) of beams, joists or slabs. That’s also why you’ll never find very much steel in the middle of a concrete beam or slab. It’s all concentrated at the top and bottom bcz that’s where all the forces are happening. Reinforcing in the middle of a beam or a slab is useless.
@@psidvicious That clears all my doubts, thank you very much.
Mike Day.. The Concrete Teacher.. been watching for a while, he's a excellent
Thank you!
Mike's instructional videos are the best! My wife and I watched them multiple times before pouring our first 10'x12' pads in our building. I couldn't have done it without the excellent instructions and detailed videos. Thanks for the awesome content!
Thank you!!
I was about to ask about the anchor bolts when you mentioned them right at the end. You guys are clearly professional grade. Seen other videos that seemingly know nothing about anchor bolts! The foundation guys gotta have a set of prints. One thing thats apparently not as common any more is setting a course of block around the perimeter to build off of- keeps the plate completely away from any water or shop fluids, etc. Great job - nice crew 👍
What a gravy job man! Looks great. I do commercial jobs and they can be so much work. This looks like a walk in the park for you guys! As some guys say... "Easy Money!".
Great video Mike. Keep them coming.
Love your videos been following you for about five months now, I'll be doing my own slab soon. keep up the great work, the pride and attention to detail are top-notch.
Going to try pouring a garage slab so I can work at home. Disabled gaining weight working on cars will get weight down for knee replacement
i owned a concrete company in south jersey for 25 years about and mike is spot on with the concrete
Thanks Devin!
Hey mike! I have watched countless of your videos and what I haven’t seen is on the power trowel, knowing to start out with the blades pitched or flat and what to look for to know when to change the pitch. I have poured a couple pads and have fiddled with the pitch a little but am not experienced enough to know what I’m looking for when I do it. Thanks for all your wisdom!
Glad to help!
Crank em up when she gets hard ...lower when its soft lol
Great content, keep it up. Could you add a time stamp to various stages of the pour in future videos, so the working times can be established? Thanks for the education, much appreciated.
Love your videos. I have been pouring concrete in NYC for almost 20 years. Trying to get into stamped concrete.
Thank you!
I enjoy your videos. I'm new to the concrete business and work for a major supplier in my area. I use your videos for my own personal training. Thank you!
Hey bud thanks for making the video. I didn't see where they pulled up the wire mesh?🤔
Great instructions for beginners like me. Thank you
I’m pretty handy. Watching videos to see if I can pour my own patio. 18x18 , thanks for the video.
You have a good crew Mike. Like a well oiled machine. 👍
Thanks!
Yes I plan on doing my own slabs man you are the best man.
Thanks Kevin!
I'm curious, this is a fairly large slab and it is for a detached garage so I'm curious why there are no footers? Although local codes will obviously vary, if you are building walls and a roof, why don't you need footers?
Yes in a 24 x 47 Slap for back yard garage shop storage Area. Three car Garage bay doors. From yard porch 10 CEO slab. Drive ways 10 CEO on 2 and walk ways 4x20 and 3 x 20
Thanks for the video. More information about the gravel layer would be helpful.
Should there be a footing for the building ?
Nice job Great tutorial very helpful! me and my two sons are going to try and pour a 21 x 21 garage slab inside 8 inch cinderblock walls with expansion joint all the way around the perimeter. i’m having a little anxiety about it. if there’s any pointers, you can give me that would be a big help.! I think my biggest challenge is I only have the two garage doors entering the garage and a man door on the back of the garage at the end of the side wall! I have poured little sidewalks and a little pads, but nothing more than that, and so I thought I would reach out to a professional to get some good tips and directions on having a a successful pour Thank you, Vincent.
Hi there. I plan to put a garage which backs up to a 3m hill cut wall. Do I build from there or do I leave a gap from the wall. What would you do? Tks for sharing.
I was a cement contractor for 40 years & never seen a hotter babe finishing.Best of luck my friend.
That screed machine looks so awesome it almost doesn't need bull float
Good Afternoon, I plan on pouring a concrete patio and i currently have a sand (fill dirt) base, do I need to pack the sand, add a gravel layer, and pack again to complete the base preparation?
I’m new to your channel but I really love it so far! Great info man!
Its surprising how old school it is back east..im assuming its east coast.I been a concrete contractor 42 yrs on the west coast 2 guys would pour this and one guy hand finish it...a lil small for a machine imo..hand rod with a 14' aluminum.I dont see any kickers on the forms either thats different.I worked on crews that had 100 finishers 10 ten man crews just one ten man crew was expected to have 17-20 homes poured a day 6 days a week.It was down to speed and science i dont miss it.We had many pours that were 900-1000 yards at once.Its kind of nice seeing how its done out there main thing is that there having fun.
Commercial Crete blows. Decorative concrete is where the money and fun is at
@@donpotts9814 i did comercial as a kid..decorative the last 30 yrs
I notice you did not put plastic down before the concrete went in. What would plastic do if anything if you use it? I wish the guy I helped watched this video. We had to pump the concrete on a cold day( about 25 degrees in the morning) the tubes had ice in them clogging up the concrete it took an hour to finally get the tube free. We had many problems but in the end the concrete was setting at the end and difficult to trowel. The concrete had excelerator in it and I’m wondering what was our problem? The slab was 30’ x 20’.
Your site was really neat, no crap getting in the way. Thank you for a great video. 👍👍👍
Hi Mike, very nice and informative videos. Thanks so much!
Question:
I’m about to prepare a 40x40 feet slab ( under roof) in south Florida. It’s under a new home on stilts, in order to have a cleaner surface for my ground floor. The home has concrete stilts. Each of the stilts has its own concrete foundation below grade. There is about 2 feet of sand that was poured over the foundation.
- My question is, can I pour my 4 in concrete directly onto the sand? Of course I’ll be using rebar for stability.
- Also, should I divide the surface in several smaller sections, or can I pour it all at once?
- Last question, is there any specific concrete if I want a polished final surface?
Thanks for your input
I’ve made more than enough money from the knowledge you have shared the least I can do is subscribe to your monthly subscription!!
Awesome, thank you!
Looks good! We start our 40x90 pad next week for my new shop
we are doing our first slab this week!
Nice work Mike, but where are you that footings to the frost line aren't required?
Hey quick question should we put a a vapor barrier for inside a garage ?
Is it not necessary to install a stone base under the slab for expansion? How does the soil not freeze and heave the slab? In Pa, a much warmer climate we are required to use stone base. I'm confused. Thx Mike
Hey Mike, I noticed you guys pour slabs on whatever aggregate you got there on grade.....what about frost? What’s the base your pouring on?
You guys make it look easy !
Looked Awesome!! Cool tools never seen power tools for concrete....
Great instructions for the do it yourselfer.
Do you have a video explaining how to slope to a garage floor drain?
We have to pour rat footings for our garages, always use 2x12s so we can pour a stem wall at same time.
Every town is different here, depends on the code enforcement officer as to what we do or don't do.
I just did a slab for a 12x24 and it didn't quite turn out as good as I wanted but given the fact that me and my kids did it I can live with the few flaws it has. At least its perfectly square and flat, fairly smooth and just a few flaws in it so I can live with that. Definitely not a professional job lol.
What a great share, MD - I'm readying to start a project just like this and your expertise is immensely appreciated. Any chance you can recommend slabbers in GA, TN, and FL, please feel free to recommend. It can be a tough landscape out there to find someone as meticulous as you and your team so, I like to do my research before hiring or even considering a DIY project like this. Good things to you & yours!
Awesome video thanks. QQ: New to this but wondering about the need for a footing. This looks to be a floating garage slab vs one with footing.
When I come to America to visit my wife's family I'd love to do few days working with you. I'm from new Zealand/ Australia.
That Looks Great!
Thanks Shawn!
Where is the gravel for a strong foundation? Did I miss that part?
It was gravel under the slab.
I always sample the base for a slab to find its stability. If you are pouring next to a house or an area by house that has a ground pitch towards the house you may have some very wet ground which is unstable so i compact in a couple yards of class 5 crushed limestone for a good base. Some soils are naturally good or house was back filled with stable soil a base like a rocky clay and sand. So if you dont see yellow rock it doesnt mean the soil wont suffice.
How u know he ain't using a road base material. I'm sure he ain't posting videos of him pouring on plane dirt lol. This ain't his first rodeo
Love your videos you guys are pros I did not like the power screed.i strugeld with it i pulled it slow but had a lot of chatter marks.
I'm going to pour a very small slab for my 36" grill, how can I incorporate a lip for a wheel stop? I have never done concrete work before.
I am going to concreate a 15x15 garage floor. How do I get the ground ready to and level to concrete? Do I just dig up the ground? Do I use sand and gravel ?
The rebar and wire should be about 2 inch above stone grade. Just like a concrete lintel, the rebar is closer to the bottom for compressive strength.
How many yards of concrete does it take to do a 22x32 6 inches deep
Good job installing I have 17 years same work
I am curious. If a jutterbug is not used the agregate will not be pushed down and I was wondering if this might cause spauling in the winter time when temperatures are below freezing.
Love the video's. I'm doing a 30x30 pad parking area. But instead of one large pad I'm doing it in a grid pattern. Each square will be 7' square. I will be using rebar. Any other advise. Should I use expantion joint to go up against existing slab.
Learning a lot from this, How would i go about pouring a heated slab?
I’ve been watching your videos. I want to pour a slab from my driveway to a shop building that is currently just a grass area. It is 55 by 25 feet. I thought of breaking this up into several pours so I don’t overload myself. What would be your recommendation on size of an area for a diy’er pour if I have 5 people with me to pour it.
Your videos have been awesome.
Nice video! But you missed the part how you lead down the Metal wires ? Under the contract?
Mike, Thanks for the great videos. I'm a concrete contractor in Oshawa, Ontario Canada. I'm going to use your training videos to train my new guys. I have a bunch right now. Also I have a question.
I need to cut a perfect vertical saw cut in a finished retaining wall. Any Ideas?
Jim
Hi James, thanks for the comment. I've got a lot of good training videos in The Concrete Underground, my training academy. Plus you get access to me also for questions and knowledge that I have. www.theconcreteunderground.com/the-concrete-underground
If I had to cut a perfect vertical saw cut, I'd need some kind of guide to rest the saw against. What kind of saw are you using?
@@MikeDayConcrete -Where is your company located. thanks
Yeah I'm going to pour my own pad. I had two contractors come out. One contractor wanted to charge me 15,000 just to pour a pad and then I had another guy come out and he wants to charge me $4,000 just to set the pad but I'm thinking I can do it myself. It's a 16x29. I've been watching your videos. I think I can do this myself
I live in upstate VT and pouring my own slab for my garage. Couple questions about our climate. 1. Do i need any type of frost protection? Also, is 4" too thin? Do i need to do 6"?
Thank you for sharing, I am looking at doing a 27X42 slab that I can put a car port on, I maybe foolish but I was thinking of doing it my self with 80lb. bags
You will need about 1,100 bags
I'm trying to get a garage built in my backyard. Once I get the trees removed, what is considered to be optimal thickness, 4" or 6"? I'll be putting in one lift at a later date, and having a steel building installed over the slab. I'm going to prep everything, but want a solid thickness for longevity and support
I love that topcon laser my favorite so far 👍
It is awesome isn't it Kevin.
DID YOU CONSIDER THE FROST LINE WHEN PURING THIS? I THOUGHT YOU'D HAVE TO POUR FOOTINGS BELOW IT. CAN EXPLAIN WHY NOT?
Hey Mike how do you do a 30 x70 pour half of it at a time
gonna be doing my own pour entrance to a driveway 24w x 30l first ever pour 4 inches thick but its on a slope so wish me luck learned a lot on your video thanks! do you think the fiber and the and the rebar are absolutely necessary? I was told you just need one or the other.
Yes I poured concrete when I was younger you know as a helper I've helped do walls and and slabs and sidewalks and I just can't remember do I need a special grade of cement for a garage which I'm going to park vehicles in for strength it's 4 in enough can you make 4 inch just as strong as our stronger than a 6 in and when you put your 6x6 steel wire mesh and instead of rebar do you put like a little spacer on it so it'll be like in the center of the cement when it's poured and not laying right on the ground it have more structural significance if about the center of the poor wouldn't it and can you just brush finish that slab you don't have to have it smooth and you sealer and do you need a moisture barrier I hope that's not too many questions please let me know something thank you thank you very much
Just looking around. Good video.
I do want to remark about sawed joints: I see this had been a trend in the past decades (especially of driveways), but I hate them - they chip, and its because of stress concentration at a sharp edge; corners (at intersecting cuts) chip even worse. Rounded edges last MUCH longer - the life of the slab - and stress concentration (reduction of) is the reason why.
Have you done a kennel? I’d love to see that! Thank you for sharing!
Good job, Mike, I do concrete work here in Seattle wa, we do foundations slabs steps driveways and more
@Mike O’Connell I can tell you’re a miserable person by all your negative replies. I’ll pray for you.
Doing my own slab. I would like to know what is the best way to manage the concrete as coming off the truck. Also, I would like to know what slump number the consistency of the concrete should be so it is easy to rake and level the concrete. I tried an only a one-time long time ago bad experience but I am still willing to learn.
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over an existing sewer line running through the property. For instance adding a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running out the back of an existing home out under the slab and garage.
Gotta do a slab over an old a chicken barn slab it's in good shape but a lot of cracks, perimeters are solid and deep.can I drop a new pad over that? It's been there for 75 years and hasn't moved up and down.just wonderin
Hey Mike, when pouring small jobs like sidewalks , at what point should I go from mixing sakrete to having concrete delivered?
Also do you think the quality of your typical 4000 psi sakrete is as good as what I would get delivered from the local concrete company?
Thanks
Jeff, the quality is different in the ready mix, especially for exterior concrete. You get air-entrainment if you're in an area with freeze/thaw. If not, it's not as much of an issue. I wouldn't mix more than about 10-15 bags before I decided to call for a yard of ready mix.
I'm not Mike .but the answer is no
Can you do a garage like this in small pours like 8 * 7 4 inch thick?
Would I need a footing and rebar in a 10' x 24' X5 inch slab for a addition on the back of my garage? The property is in West Michigan with all compacted sand ground. I noticed no footing in your garage slab.
I notice you aren't using vapor barrier, is this not going to be inspected?
Mike when you are running that vibra screed along the wet pads are you running the blade level with the pads or leaving the ends up 1/4 or so? In the video it looks like your running the ends just a little off the wet pads. Thanks
I’m in eastern Florida....ALL SAND. What gravel do I need to help prep the surface beforehand.
Most excellent! Thank you!
Just got a screedemon, heavier but puts down a flat floor
I’m going to try doing my backyard, but I want it look like flat rock pattern.
Best way to do a 24x24 slab with a small mixer and bag concrete? Cement truck access not possible...
do you have a video showing a garage floor pour witha drainage system?
Awesome! I do concrete work in south tx
You guys do great work!!
Thanks Jason!
Plan on adding onto my driveway. 30x40
Mike would a 28x30 ft garage need a footer? Could it just be poured on a slab? 8 foot walls. Trusses 2ft on center
What kind of problems will they experience after pouring directly onto the ground. Or slab on grade some people are calling it?
I want to pour my own 16'x16' patio, should I dig down or can I just pour on top of the ground
It should have some kind of gravel or road base under it yes. I never just pour on top of grass, loom, or clay here in Maine.
Dig down till you hit sand or clay they back fill with gravel
Watching why are you not doing a beam around the perimeter or a X beam?
I was a contractor/builder for years so I'm handy but I have only done very small pours, like shed pads and sidewalks. I'm thinking of replacing my rotting deck with stamped concrete. The sides will have about 24-30" of facing and the pad will be about 16x40 with steps. Thinking it could be too large for just me.
that is what she said !😁
I'm wanting to build a garage with a room above the garage. Do I need to pour a slab with a thicker outer footer to support the 2nd floor weight? Or would a 6in slab be enough?
For a second floor building I would make the edges 12" thick.
Don’t you need wals for frost?
Doing my own for a 24x30 metal shop.
Hey Mike, I appreciate your videos. Hypothetically would you take a job helping pour and form only? Just come for the day and help professionally pour, smooth, and finish? Thanks
Ryan, we do that all the time for other foundation contractors.
Mike, i love your videos. Im going to do my driveway and ive done a little concrete the past 40yrs. When do i need expansion joints plse, thx, keep it up
Every 15 to 20 feet you need expansion joints and of course always place expansion joints against existing concrete if you are pouring and butting up to any existing crete. Cut in control joints with your jointer wherever you think there's a spot where the concrete could crack, like coming off of a corner or something.
What if I want a slab in my back yard but I have neighbors on each side in a neighborhood with only 6” gates on each side? About 75” from the road to where I need the slab.
I’m building a block garage 37 wide by 45 deep. Block walls 16ft tall. I’ve poured 20 by 14 before but nothing as large as what I’m planning. Concrete will be 4000 psi with fiber and #3 rebar. Do you have any tips?