I'm actually getting ready to do a 3d carve for a jewelry box and it's my first 2 sided cut. This video explained it better than the others I have watched. Thanks for the excellent content!
I'm a professional engineer, and as a consequence I have more that 10,000hrs of CAD experience. To me the solid drafting side of Fusion 360 was pretty straight forward, mostly because a majority of the 3D modeling principles are at least partially equivalent across platforms. I will say that Fusion is quirky, and can be unstable... But it's free. As for the CAM side of it... I kind of stumble through it until I find a way to make it do what I want. I also use the CAM infrequently so, I make the same mistakes over and over from project to project. One thing that I do is make seed files for types of CAM jobs and use the set ups and tool paths from the past as a go by... This helps immensely so Im not reinventing the wheel from job to job. If you do need help on something specific, I find that a google search is the best approach. TH-cam is good, but you end up watching 25min of stuff you dont need to know to get that 1 nugget of gold that need to get back on the road. Obviously, Google is a little more targeted. Once I understand the function in broad terms, I may watch a video on that specific topic to get some contextual examples... Good luck
Great video! I do quite a bit of two-sided machining, I have always set my X/Y zero to the centerline and only used two dowels. I like the idea of using four! I would also recommend an oscillating multi-tool to cut loose the tabs, it will save you a ton of time. I picked up one for
Thank you for the explanation! this is getting me more comfortable about 2 sided milling... I do have a question.... how do you add tabs to a 2d contour like you did? I’m guessing you only add them to the second side?
Im glad you enjoyed the video. I would recommend making your 2D cut out operation after you've already contoured both sides. You need as much material as you can attaching the part to the stock to keep the part stabililized during the sculpting process. Do your Cutout profile on the same reference frame as your second set up. Up until that last cut out operation, all you have done is cut away thickness on both sides of the part. That final operation will cut the part free from the material. This article will walk you through the mouse clicks of adding the tab to the tool path. cadcamlessons.com/fusion-360-tabs/
I did. I ran the material through my planer first measuring it with Micrometer until I get it dialed in. You can also flatten it and bring it to size using a square end mill. I have a 2.5" face mill that makes quick work of very large surfaces. If you did something like what I show in this video without your stock being the right thickness, it would throw your dimensions off when you go to cut the second side. If its too thick your part will have excess thickness in the z direction, and too thin your z dimensions would thin. The error will be equal to the magnitude that your thickness measurement is off... Thanks for watching.
I've really never understood why people just dont go ahead and cut the indexing holes in the work piece and the waste board at the same time (just increase the depth). In this scenario, you cut the holes in the waste board first, then you cut them in the work piece in a separate operation. When you used the same tool path to cut the indexing holes in your work piece, it looks like you drilled all the way through anyways. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the length of cutter you are using is limiting you. Outside of this, I must be missing something.
The concern is that the cutter would not be long enought to cut through the entirety of the thickness of part, and the spoil board... Also, securing the work piece while doing this is a separate challenge that would have required more effort than the way I chose. To your point, if it was a much thinner part, I would have done as you said, and just cut through the thickness.... With all of that said, there are many ways to get to Rome, and this is what I was comfortable with given my set up, and experince. Thanks for watching.
@@JeremiahL Ya I completely agree. You did a great job. After watching your video, I did run a '2-sided' test on my own drilling straight through the work piece and spoil board in 1 shot. In my test...I only drilled into the spoil board .25 in and found that was plently for simply locating the work piece. Tape and super glue held the work piece in place at the start with no issues. After the indexing holes were drilled, I then pushed the pins through the work piece into the spoil board before resuming the milling. Worked great for my needs. I honestly think I even could have skipped the index pins until i needed to flip to the second side as well. But I do like that the pins offer extra support for the top, so pushed them through just the same.
@@Shorrey some times you need to use the stock to determine z height. For example if you have something flat that you need to cut letters in, it will be important to use your stock so the depth of cut is correct relative to the work piece. In this case, i want my finished part to be nested in the stock relative to the machine bed not the starting stock. It possible to do it either way if you understand the error in the stock size, and what that does to your finished part in terms of deviation error. Ideally you would square and flatten your starting material on the machine to achieve a known and precise thickness prior to cutting your part to minimize errors. It wasn’t important for the purposes of this demonstration… Thank you
I'm actually getting ready to do a 3d carve for a jewelry box and it's my first 2 sided cut. This video explained it better than the others I have watched. Thanks for the excellent content!
Glad to help. Subscribe so you can see my next one.
great work! And well done proving it can be done.
Now i need to look up the difference between 2d scallop and 2d parallel.
I'm a professional engineer, and as a consequence I have more that 10,000hrs of CAD experience. To me the solid drafting side of Fusion 360 was pretty straight forward, mostly because a majority of the 3D modeling principles are at least partially equivalent across platforms. I will say that Fusion is quirky, and can be unstable... But it's free. As for the CAM side of it... I kind of stumble through it until I find a way to make it do what I want. I also use the CAM infrequently so, I make the same mistakes over and over from project to project. One thing that I do is make seed files for types of CAM jobs and use the set ups and tool paths from the past as a go by... This helps immensely so Im not reinventing the wheel from job to job. If you do need help on something specific, I find that a google search is the best approach. TH-cam is good, but you end up watching 25min of stuff you dont need to know to get that 1 nugget of gold that need to get back on the road. Obviously, Google is a little more targeted. Once I understand the function in broad terms, I may watch a video on that specific topic to get some contextual examples... Good luck
Great video! I do quite a bit of two-sided machining, I have always set my X/Y zero to the centerline and only used two dowels. I like the idea of using four! I would also recommend an oscillating multi-tool to cut loose the tabs, it will save you a ton of time. I picked up one for
cbb1962 thanks for the tip!
Thanks for this .. I have to do a 2 sided part and im new to fusion so this helps a lot! I knew i'd need indexing pins but you clarified a few things
Glad to help
thanks man, you inspired me to mill two sides part
Glad to hear it
Just learning 2 sided CNC-ing. Excellent video.
Thanks bud
Very Good!. We have a similar set up. I was thinking through some 2 sided parts, Thanks for the video.
Glad that you enjoyed it!
Solid project. 👏🏼
Thanks bud.
great video, I struggle with F360, have never cut a part with it, stuck with Aspire. I subb'ed
Thanks for the sub! I just posted a new video today. I also subscribed you your channel. It looks like we have a lot of the same interest... lol
I like it! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you too!
Nice, what kind of Ball Mill did you used? After mine, there are some inini rest hairs standing up :-( Iam using metall ball mills
Whiteside Ball Nose Up Cut Spiral CNC Router Bit - 1/4"[RU2075RN]
Thank you for the explanation! this is getting me more comfortable about 2 sided milling... I do have a question.... how do you add tabs to a 2d contour like you did? I’m guessing you only add them to the second side?
Im glad you enjoyed the video. I would recommend making your 2D cut out operation after you've already contoured both sides. You need as much material as you can attaching the part to the stock to keep the part stabililized during the sculpting process. Do your Cutout profile on the same reference frame as your second set up. Up until that last cut out operation, all you have done is cut away thickness on both sides of the part. That final operation will cut the part free from the material. This article will walk you through the mouse clicks of adding the tab to the tool path. cadcamlessons.com/fusion-360-tabs/
Very nice!
Paul Pomeroy thanks for watching!
Brilliant. thanks
Thanks for watching!
well done !
thanks
Nicely done. i guess you surfaced the work piece before to be "flat" ?
I did. I ran the material through my planer first measuring it with Micrometer until I get it dialed in. You can also flatten it and bring it to size using a square end mill. I have a 2.5" face mill that makes quick work of very large surfaces. If you did something like what I show in this video without your stock being the right thickness, it would throw your dimensions off when you go to cut the second side. If its too thick your part will have excess thickness in the z direction, and too thin your z dimensions would thin. The error will be equal to the magnitude that your thickness measurement is off... Thanks for watching.
I've really never understood why people just dont go ahead and cut the indexing holes in the work piece and the waste board at the same time (just increase the depth). In this scenario, you cut the holes in the waste board first, then you cut them in the work piece in a separate operation. When you used the same tool path to cut the indexing holes in your work piece, it looks like you drilled all the way through anyways. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the length of cutter you are using is limiting you. Outside of this, I must be missing something.
The concern is that the cutter would not be long enought to cut through the entirety of the thickness of part, and the spoil board... Also, securing the work piece while doing this is a separate challenge that would have required more effort than the way I chose. To your point, if it was a much thinner part, I would have done as you said, and just cut through the thickness.... With all of that said, there are many ways to get to Rome, and this is what I was comfortable with given my set up, and experince. Thanks for watching.
@@JeremiahL Ya I completely agree. You did a great job. After watching your video, I did run a '2-sided' test on my own drilling straight through the work piece and spoil board in 1 shot. In my test...I only drilled into the spoil board .25 in and found that was plently for simply locating the work piece. Tape and super glue held the work piece in place at the start with no issues. After the indexing holes were drilled, I then pushed the pins through the work piece into the spoil board before resuming the milling. Worked great for my needs. I honestly think I even could have skipped the index pins until i needed to flip to the second side as well. But I do like that the pins offer extra support for the top, so pushed them through just the same.
how many cuts are in this video? my head hurts.
The same as the number of licks required to get to the center of a lollipop.
In this way you must zero Z axes on the table, not the stock, right?
Yes. You want to use the fixture coordinates, not stock coordinates to locate your part in 3D space.
I dont know if I said it or not, but the video shows me setting z position at 09:15
@@JeremiahL yes, thats why I am asking. Usually i zero on stock and noticed you dont. So asked to confirm.
@@Shorrey some times you need to use the stock to determine z height. For example if you have something flat that you need to cut letters in, it will be important to use your stock so the depth of cut is correct relative to the work piece.
In this case, i want my finished part to be nested in the stock relative to the machine bed not the starting stock.
It possible to do it either way if you understand the error in the stock size, and what that does to your finished part in terms of deviation error.
Ideally you would square and flatten your starting material on the machine to achieve a known and precise thickness prior to cutting your part to minimize errors.
It wasn’t important for the purposes of this demonstration…
Thank you
@@Shorrey what ever you do, make sure it agrees with how you set your part up in your CAM programing…