Funnel Neckline drafting theory | Step by Step Neckline theory | Hindi

Funnel Neckline drafting theory | Step by Step Neckline theory | Hindi
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When a pattern you draft does not give the result you want, you may get discouraged and think “why draft, I’ll use and change commercial patterns”.
Quite simple looking, yet elegant. Very much a summer top, but also wearable under a jacket. Couldn’t help myself and tried to draft it. This is my muslin, based on my sloper drafted in Suzy Furrer’s Craftsy class.
In her class on neckline variations Suzy Furrer shows how to draft a funnel neckline and an opera neckline but both in variations that stand away from the neck. I could use the information to draft this neckline hugging version.
My observations:
funnel neckline close to the neck
curved v-neck
1 to 2 inched seam below lowest point of v-neckline, opening into a small pleat
seam in the back neckline
center back seam
no darts
For my version I chose to have a bust dart: removing all darts in the waist dart is too much on my figure and I think that being full busted that is just fitting better. I did not use a seam in the back neckline.
Hope the next drawings are clear in how I got to this pattern. I use inches in this description as I’m quite used to doing those now, having followed so many of Suzy Furrer’s classes. I use an inch ruler too when I do these markings.
The starting point: sloper draft of the front, shoulder and armhole dart closed and the space “dumped” into the bust dart. (alternative could be a blouse/shirt pattern with not too much ease).
went 1/4 inch in for the shoulder seam
(for those having done this sloper too: this is the 1/4 inch you remove from the moulage to get extra space around the neckline. I started using this point but it was too wide, so I went back to the original moulage point)
From that shoulder point 1 1/4 inch up, perpendicular to the center front
Draw the curve, ending around the middle of the shoulder seam.
I Decide where you want the v-neckline to end and draw a curved line to that point.
decided to have the center seam 1/2 inch below the bust line. If the pleat would start too high, it would open up which at bust level, not so nice probably. The pleat is 1 inch deep (you could make it less or more, it’s just what I thought would be about right), so the amount of fabric for the pleat is 2 inches. The front can be cut on the fold. As I’m used to I marked the darts as “not using them”.
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