I live in sunny FL. Milton is an old name...my dad had Milton products in his old service station..in my home garage. I have a half inch filter system..Amite system another old name in the auto shop system. Known for there lubricant products. Love Milton as well. I bought a new industrial type air comprsoir..for my home shop..a Saylor-beall unit model # VT- 730-60-1-FP. 60 gal .. they offer a cooling system on there profomance pkg. With a radiator on the belt cage by the motor a fan built on the motor to cool it to room temperature..plus a automatic tank drain. Due to the fact im.in FL..I hard pipe my shop, black iron pipe..no plastic it will peel from the inside out..in time and get in your air tools and pain guns ..after 10 yrs you,ll have issues..trust me.. so I stayed with iron black piping..old school..plex piping is what I was referring too..it will start to peel over a long period of time..I do drain everything out at night..because I have kids around..for safety..and lock out the power..to it..as for your comprsoir. I would add a magnetic starter..to it IR has issues with there pres switch s...it will cost about 300 bucks. A adder..but worth it in down time costs ask any electrician..if your unit is 5 hp.or more..your drawing 40 amps at a minimum starting your unit each time....great video love it..
Wouldn’t you want to put the air drier at the far end of the line where the air has cooled down and the moisture precipitated out the drain, rather than near the compressor?
I know this is old, but I'm considering buying this unit. Is the air flow plumbed in reverse in the video. It would seem that as the desiccant breaks down, it would travel through the line into the tool. I've never seen a filter system without a filter and regulator after the desiccant. Of course, in classic Milton style, I can't find anything online, no manual, not even a Google image of someone's setup. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise, I'll probably go with an Arrow PC7612XXL.
Looks like this is what I need for my air system, would be better if the water trap is at least 20 foot away from compressor! Apparently warm air will not condense in water trap, the colder the air the more chance you have of removing moisture, some people run the air hose in a spiral through water and even add ice to help it cool down, I was getting fish eyes in my clear coat so I found out about moving trap and it has worked for me ..
Good video. Question tho.. I read in more in one place that we should run at least 20 feet of line before hitting the filters, due to temp of air before it condenses. I just have a 5 foot whip line and looks like what is used in the video. So we're fine just going the 5 foot distance? I was going to run the 5 to a 25 foot before filters, and then another 25 for line. But now I realize I'm likely killing my air pressure to end tools. I'm only running a 21 gallon 125psi compressor on 3/8 line
Yes, the goal is to cool down the air before it gets to the dryer. Cool air is easier to dry then hot moist air. in normal daily use I have not had any issue. I have an 80 gallon tank and an automatic tank drain. However when I am doing heavy use. the dryer can't keep up being that close. it gets over saturated and can let moisture through. That was the trade off I had to make in my tiny garage. If I am doing sand blasting I have to stop every 30 min or so and let everything cool down.
@@FlashPerformance ok thanks. I went ahead and finished my 3/8 with hi-flow lines last night on my 21 gallon compressor. But rather than going by the setup illustrated I went more towards a hookup for 60 gallon the book showed. I did a 3 foot line to a T with drain link and 25' foot hose to run up,over and back down to another T with drain link. And that's linked off to filter and 2nd 25 foot for tools. It's only 125psi so if I need more for an impact I'll just directly hook up the second 25 to tank
Easiest way to do this is with a forced air after-cooler between the pump and tank. Keeps condensate out of the tank for the most part and does a better job keeping hot, saturated air out of your system even with the pump running. My inlet temp to the radiator is about 280 degrees and outlet is a few degrees above ambient. My inline water separator keeps the water out of the tank.
You have your static pressure set at 90 but if you're running something higher demand than a simple nail gun you'll want to set it for working pressure. If you're running a impact wrench you won't be getting the best performance out of it.
Thanks for the video. I just got mine the other day and have to hook it up! I see I never got or still have to order the mounting brackets! I wondered how that worked. Being Canadian and not a fan of our dictator I love "voting" USA with my money every chance I can!!! You have to be rich to buy cheap. I have learned that more than once. On top of that I am not a fan of "voting" Asia with my dollars. I have friends in the US who have kids that need jobs!!! Kids with jobs less likely to steal my stuff!!! : ) Simple math!!!
I don't know of any addons that could be put in between the compressor and the tank. Some compressors have this built into the compressor. I don't know of any aftermarket solutions
Actually 50ft between your compressor is best for optimum performance of your filters. You can use a 50 foot air hose running up and down the wall with water traps at bottom to catch most of the water before it makes it to your filters, it will save drastically on the amount if desacant you have to use. But nice video thx for sharing the info on milton industries...
You can accomplish even more with a proper after cooler between the compressor and tank. It is a very good idea to keep the water out of the tank in the first place.
It is probably because the air needs distance from the compressor to cool off before the water will condense and then be captured by the filter. In this case, the desiccant.
Hi the backside were you put the mounting brackets is the unit threaded? I got one and it does not appear to be threaded. What size bolts did you use? Thanks
The holes are not threaded, they are drilled for self tapping screws. I had the same issue with I first got mine. I tried to make brackets for it and it just didn't work out right. I ended up getting a set of Milton mounting brackets and it included the screws. www.miltonindustries.com/frl-modular-system-mounting-bracket.html
If you need dry air first go to ebay order gallon of silica beads. 2nd go to any hardware store. I've made several different degrees of cost. I've used 2 inch 2 foot of pvc with couplers and 2 inch to half inch then half to a quarter. With steel wool packed in each end and half gallon of beads. I remove the half Inch fitting use pliers remove steel wool and empty and reheat the beads. $15 Design 2, 3/4 inch brass connects 6 inch long. With a coupler to join then. And red couplers 3/4 to 1/4 brass is known as the cold metal. $30. Abd I've made one out of 48 Inches of 1 inch of black iron pipe. 1 Inch to 3/4 couplers then 3/4 to 1/4 none have ever impeded air or given me dryer air in my life. I run 2 or 3 compressors non stop for painting all 110vi use a 3 to 1 in reverse. Plug the 3 hose lines into my air dryer then to my lowes 7 gallon reciever tank. Actually getting rid of those wall mount ones increased my air flow a good bit just using my dessicant filters with steel wool in the ends. And if somehow a beed made it past it goes into a storage tank and not into my airline. Never had a problem. And I use 25or 50 foot lineson my compressors to let the air cool some. With so much dessicant it's all that's needed and I live where its 90% or higher humid year round. Rarely rarely ever get low humid days even in winter. You dont need all this fancy systems to have dry air. $15 in pvc and half gallon of gel $15 and I'm willing to bet my 15 dollar design would have lower humidity coming out the air line then this contraption and have better airflow. Your systems weakness is its smallest restricted flow point. If you need more filtration use it at point of use dont constrict it right out the compressor. Take one of those store bought ones apart and look at them sometime.
I heard you shouldn't go over 200F with the silica beads? Also, install the air filter way further? th-cam.com/video/EgaJ0QgFllc/w-d-xo.html OR milton's advice : www.miltonindustries.com/faqs/what-is-the-minimum-distance-from-the-air-compressor-to-the-frl/
Your Oiler is doing no purpose before your dryer or your desiccant you should run straight into your free charcoal filter through the desiccant filter to the paint. If you want a oil your air tools split it off before it goes into the charcoal filter run up to the oiler and a pre-filter and then to your air tools
Was really into this until I saw the price! Unless you're in business, there is no way I can justify that amount of money. The shame going on Milton. How greedy can you get! I'm with the other guy, I'm going to see what Harbor Freight has. Anybody for that matter.
@@baboon50 Don’t worry, I bought a Hayden transmission cooler, a Parker auto drain dryer and a used “made in Minnesota” Axial fan in a square used housing. Unfortunately, I decided to wire in the fan to the compressor power supply instead of a separate 110 plug, so I had to buy a Dayton 220 fan that is made in China. All my Milwaukee power tools are made in China, my recent craftsman tools are made in China, my Ridgid miter stand is, my delta table saw is, Jet horizontal band saw is, the alternator on my car. The days of the little guy standing on top of the “I only buy American” mountain is good in principle, but impossible to practice. Greedy corporations have been allowed by greedy politicians, to build everything off shore or in Mexico (like my Can am)! I thought it was made in Canada! I was pissed!
Great job!
Been looking at Milton but with an oiler.... i don't paint and I learned a few things from your video.
Thanks for posting this🙂
I live in sunny FL. Milton is an old name...my dad had Milton products in his old service station..in my home garage. I have a half inch filter system..Amite system another old name in the auto shop system. Known for there lubricant products. Love Milton as well. I bought a new industrial type air comprsoir..for my home shop..a Saylor-beall unit model # VT- 730-60-1-FP. 60 gal .. they offer a cooling system on there profomance pkg. With a radiator on the belt cage by the motor a fan built on the motor to cool it to room temperature..plus a automatic tank drain. Due to the fact im.in FL..I hard pipe my shop, black iron pipe..no plastic it will peel from the inside out..in time and get in your air tools and pain guns ..after 10 yrs you,ll have issues..trust me.. so I stayed with iron black piping..old school..plex piping is what I was referring too..it will start to peel over a long period of time..I do drain everything out at night..because I have kids around..for safety..and lock out the power..to it..as for your comprsoir. I would add a magnetic starter..to it IR has issues with there pres switch s...it will cost about 300 bucks. A adder..but worth it in down time costs ask any electrician..if your unit is 5 hp.or more..your drawing 40 amps at a minimum starting your unit each time....great video love it..
Wouldn’t you want to put the air drier at the far end of the line where the air has cooled down and the moisture precipitated out the drain, rather than near the compressor?
Not an issue if you fab/install an after-cooler between pump and tank. Otherwise, you are on to something.
Looks like a good system ...do you see any advantage to cooling the air between the compressor and the tank?
You could also use a 1/2 inch brass union at the inlet
I know this is old, but I'm considering buying this unit. Is the air flow plumbed in reverse in the video. It would seem that as the desiccant breaks down, it would travel through the line into the tool. I've never seen a filter system without a filter and regulator after the desiccant. Of course, in classic Milton style, I can't find anything online, no manual, not even a Google image of someone's setup. Any help would be appreciated. Otherwise, I'll probably go with an Arrow PC7612XXL.
Looks like this is what I need for my air system, would be better if the water trap is at least 20 foot away from compressor! Apparently warm air will not condense in water trap, the colder the air the more chance you have of removing moisture, some people run the air hose in a spiral through water and even add ice to help it cool down, I was getting fish eyes in my clear coat so I found out about moving trap and it has worked for me ..
Alan Cooper a
Yelp I installed mine at 25 feet away from the compressor
YEAH
Thanks and thanks for the links
Was the housing tapped for the bolts for the mounting bracket? or those like self tapping bolts, the thread into like pre-drilled holes?
Good video. Question tho.. I read in more in one place that we should run at least 20 feet of line before hitting the filters, due to temp of air before it condenses. I just have a 5 foot whip line and looks like what is used in the video. So we're fine just going the 5 foot distance? I was going to run the 5 to a 25 foot before filters, and then another 25 for line. But now I realize I'm likely killing my air pressure to end tools. I'm only running a 21 gallon 125psi compressor on 3/8 line
Yes, the goal is to cool down the air before it gets to the dryer. Cool air is easier to dry then hot moist air. in normal daily use I have not had any issue. I have an 80 gallon tank and an automatic tank drain. However when I am doing heavy use. the dryer can't keep up being that close. it gets over saturated and can let moisture through. That was the trade off I had to make in my tiny garage. If I am doing sand blasting I have to stop every 30 min or so and let everything cool down.
@@FlashPerformance ok thanks. I went ahead and finished my 3/8 with hi-flow lines last night on my 21 gallon compressor. But rather than going by the setup illustrated I went more towards a hookup for 60 gallon the book showed. I did a 3 foot line to a T with drain link and 25' foot hose to run up,over and back down to another T with drain link. And that's linked off to filter and 2nd 25 foot for tools. It's only 125psi so if I need more for an impact I'll just directly hook up the second 25 to tank
Easiest way to do this is with a forced air after-cooler between the pump and tank. Keeps condensate out of the tank for the most part and does a better job keeping hot, saturated air out of your system even with the pump running. My inlet temp to the radiator is about 280 degrees and outlet is a few degrees above ambient. My inline water separator keeps the water out of the tank.
You have your static pressure set at 90 but if you're running something higher demand than a simple nail gun you'll want to set it for working pressure. If you're running a impact wrench you won't be getting the best performance out of it.
Thanks for the video. I just got mine the other day and have to hook it up! I see I never got or still have to order the mounting brackets! I wondered how that worked. Being Canadian and not a fan of our dictator I love "voting" USA with my money every chance I can!!! You have to be rich to buy cheap. I have learned that more than once. On top of that I am not a fan of "voting" Asia with my dollars. I have friends in the US who have kids that need jobs!!! Kids with jobs less likely to steal my stuff!!! : ) Simple math!!!
Do you have any ideaif there is a filter I can put between the compressor and the tank that will prevent water from entering the tank?
I don't know of any addons that could be put in between the compressor and the tank. Some compressors have this built into the compressor. I don't know of any aftermarket solutions
Actually 50ft between your compressor is best for optimum performance of your filters. You can use a 50 foot air hose running up and down the wall with water traps at bottom to catch most of the water before it makes it to your filters, it will save drastically on the amount if desacant you have to use. But nice video thx for sharing the info on milton industries...
You can accomplish even more with a proper after cooler between the compressor and tank. It is a very good idea to keep the water out of the tank in the first place.
Thanks my friend.
Hah I´m laughing "the do not eat packages" : ) - Inspiring video, now I´m gonna have to pay attention to my air solution, thank you.
Why do some filter dryers input right to left, sounds weird to me.
It is but pretty clever but it's too close to the compressor the air is still going to be too hot and it's going to saturate the desiccants too fast.
#Tinygarage
Why do so many other setups have the regulator after all of the other filters? Except the desiccant filter, that is always last.
It is probably because the air needs distance from the compressor to cool off before the water will condense and then be captured by the filter. In this case, the desiccant.
It seems the mounting bracket is no longer being sold in a pack of 2. Over $20 for a single bracket is a ridiculous.
I need a system like that for my everlast plasma cutter.
you'd make a good salesman...
You explained well.Appreciate it.
Hi the backside were you put the mounting brackets is the unit threaded? I got one and it does not appear to be threaded. What size bolts did you use? Thanks
The holes are not threaded, they are drilled for self tapping screws. I had the same issue with I first got mine. I tried to make brackets for it and it just didn't work out right. I ended up getting a set of Milton mounting brackets and it included the screws. www.miltonindustries.com/frl-modular-system-mounting-bracket.html
Flash Performance l
Flash Performanc
you need a support for your dessicated side it looks heavy by the T or elbow
duct tape.
@@TrillKump seriously. what type of bracket would you use to support that to the wall thats long enough.
Did anyone else hear him mention Milton? I thought I did but I'm not really sure?
Can you tell me the exact part numbers to use for the frl system? I want to use my compressor for paint and body work.
I put everything in the video notes. 1/2" Jumbo Desiccant Dryer System PN 1072-2, www.miltonindustries.com/1-2-jumbo-desiccant-dryer.html
$625 for that setup. Back to HF
If you need dry air first go to ebay order gallon of silica beads. 2nd go to any hardware store. I've made several different degrees of cost. I've used 2 inch 2 foot of pvc with couplers and 2 inch to half inch then half to a quarter. With steel wool packed in each end and half gallon of beads. I remove the half Inch fitting use pliers remove steel wool and empty and reheat the beads. $15
Design 2, 3/4 inch brass connects 6 inch long. With a coupler to join then. And red couplers 3/4 to 1/4 brass is known as the cold metal. $30. Abd I've made one out of 48 Inches of 1 inch of black iron pipe. 1 Inch to 3/4 couplers then 3/4 to 1/4 none have ever impeded air or given me dryer air in my life. I run 2 or 3 compressors non stop for painting all 110vi use a 3 to 1 in reverse. Plug the 3 hose lines into my air dryer then to my lowes 7 gallon reciever tank. Actually getting rid of those wall mount ones increased my air flow a good bit just using my dessicant filters with steel wool in the ends. And if somehow a beed made it past it goes into a storage tank and not into my airline. Never had a problem. And I use 25or 50 foot lineson my compressors to let the air cool some. With so much dessicant it's all that's needed and I live where its 90% or higher humid year round. Rarely rarely ever get low humid days even in winter. You dont need all this fancy systems to have dry air. $15 in pvc and half gallon of gel $15 and I'm willing to bet my 15 dollar design would have lower humidity coming out the air line then this contraption and have better airflow. Your systems weakness is its smallest restricted flow point. If you need more filtration use it at point of use dont constrict it right out the compressor. Take one of those store bought ones apart and look at them sometime.
Thanks. You save me from having to watch the video. Incidentally, I don't think a 1/2" circle is only twice the size of a 1/4" circle.
James Smith do a video, too much reading
Please check with your wife! Very funny! good advice.
I ain't got one.
Thank you
I heard you shouldn't go over 200F with the silica beads? Also, install the air filter way further? th-cam.com/video/EgaJ0QgFllc/w-d-xo.html OR milton's advice : www.miltonindustries.com/faqs/what-is-the-minimum-distance-from-the-air-compressor-to-the-frl/
So where did you get those clips or brackets to mount the regulator to the board? Are they made by milton?
Yes, I got those directly from Milton # S-1163-14 www.miltonindustries.com/frl-modular-system-mounting-bracket.html
Psssst... Hey guys. When your regulator says 90psi, 50ft away from that where your tool is, is probably not 90 psi anymore... lol set it to 100-110.
Your Oiler is doing no purpose before your dryer or your desiccant you should run straight into your free charcoal filter through the desiccant filter to the paint. If you want a oil your air tools split it off before it goes into the charcoal filter run up to the oiler and a pre-filter and then to your air tools
First is the regulator, second is a moisture trap (takes out the heavy moisture) last is the desiccant dryer. I don't show an oiler in this video.
sorry I refuse to pay more for my filtration than my compressor.
That's what I was just thinking.
Just run 50ft copper pipe and 100 dollars filter than
Waste of money not putting that more than 20ft away especially on a non intercooled compressor.
Expensive.
Just add oil to your tool's before using them. No need for oiler , waste of money. JMO ?
Please check with your wife
Was really into this until I saw the price! Unless you're in business, there is no way I can justify that amount of money. The shame going on Milton. How greedy can you get! I'm with the other guy, I'm going to see what Harbor Freight has. Anybody for that matter.
I would say shame on you for supporting a Chinese company when you can buy some thing that’s made in the United States
@@baboon50 Don’t worry, I bought a Hayden transmission cooler, a Parker auto drain dryer and a used “made in Minnesota” Axial fan in a square used housing. Unfortunately, I decided to wire in the fan to the compressor power supply instead of a separate 110 plug, so I had to buy a Dayton 220 fan that is made in China. All my Milwaukee power tools are made in China, my recent craftsman tools are made in China, my Ridgid miter stand is, my delta table saw is, Jet horizontal band saw is, the alternator on my car. The days of the little guy standing on top of the “I only buy American” mountain is good in principle, but impossible to practice. Greedy corporations have been allowed by greedy politicians, to build everything off shore or in Mexico (like my Can am)! I thought it was made in Canada! I was pissed!