ALH VE Pump Quantity Adjuster Disassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2024
- **Update. Even after shimming the modulations piston displacement valve, the issue came back. Today, April 22, 2019 I put another quantity adjuster on the pump. If you’re having this issue persist, I’d say encourage you to consider replacing yours as well. While the fix I did in this video did solve the issue for about a year, it gave me ample time to locate a used injection pump for cheap. If you have a ALH engine code in your TDI, you can swap your quantity adjuster with any ALH injection pump. Both the auto and manual, ie 10mm and 11mm pumps, both use the same quantity adjuster.**
This is my disassembly of a VE pump quantity adjuster from a 2002 Golf TDI. To my knowledge there is no video on this particular pump part, so I decided to shoot and upload one of me disassembling it. This is both demonstration of how open up and remove QA compenents; and how address the issue of metal shavings inside the QA.
Tool for removing the security bolt on the VE fuel pump can be found on metal nerd's website: www.metalnerd.c...
Voltage specs for group 019:
Lower Limit: 0.5-1.0v
Upper Limit: 4.15-4.74v
Source: forums.tdiclub....
(Just a note, on my car the 1562 code has been triggered in situations which the voltage was slightly higher than 4.15v; in multiple cases it has been 4.2v +/- 0.10. Take that into consideration as you set the Modulating Piston Displacement Voltage).
6 years later and here I am.. I have a 5 cylinder VW LT35.. a non turbo ‘slug’.. it’s that fast.. Anyhoo will be checking all of this on a spare pump I have and also doing some adjustments using VCDS (hopefully) on the pump fitted to my van. Onwards and upwards!
Thanks for taking the time…👍🏻
I can’t believe this video is six years old. I’m glad to know it’s been of help for some people. Good luck with your LT35!
Hey Robert, Thank you for the description. I live in a non friendly VW area. I have to get my parts online 99% of the time. I get no local support on tools and parts. I was about to give up. I see you hammered a 6.7 MM and that worked. I'll look into that as I'm trying to save as much as possible on my repair.
Thanks so much. New to the TDI cars but love them so much I got another and it is throwing both high and low codes. Smokes bad at idle and no power. Turbo was stuck as well. Going to clean it all and cross my fingers. Thanks again!
Thank you so much ive been struggling to find a video like this on my pump.
Tom G, I hope it helps you out. I struggled for a long time trying to find the cause of my issue... And I feel you're pain trying to find videos to show the work. Best one I ever found of a late-model Bosch VE pump was in Russian I believe. Part of the reason I decided to document my experience in the QA this time.
Robert Roussel yes that was the only decent video i could find as well i actually have 17970- upper limit reached so I'm hoping i can clean it out like this and not pay for a new pump or qa.
Tom G, just be sure you have clearance all the way around the eccentric shaft and the iron core or you'll be back in there again in a few weeks...
by any chance do you have a video of the cars idle before and after you cleaned out the pump?
Tom G, I don't. Sorry.
What you do with the play air/gap between the rotor and the coil pickup IS place paper shims between both sides of the rotor and mag then tighten the 7 mm bolts ,then remove the paper shims ,and you will not have any wear and a constant IQ; readout
I had to order a rebuilt pump from Poland ,started cols all is good ,the hotter the engine temp the worse it runs and the IQ: reading jumps from 2.4 - 5.0 and runs rough on idle And the IQ: for cylinder 2 and 4 are maxed out at 1.88 when it was cold everything is good ! SO THIS IS WHY IM HERE trying to repair a new rebuild IP .......
@@Murray-e4f, I tried that at some point point with a playing card. it appeared to be just the right thickness. For whatever reason, I found myself dealing with the issue again after a few months.
Did you ever have the issue again mate? I'm looking to do mine and this is literally the only vid documenting the disassembly with a good narration and solutions. My symptoms are a stumbling/juddering at about 1500rpm (it's common apparently) but I will be checking the wiring beforehand as this only happens when warm.
Thanks for making this vid.
Unfortunately yes. I detailed it in another comment a few years back I think. In short, the issue returned a few months later. I found a used 10mm injection pump for $75 and swapped out the quantity adjuster. That solved the issue and I drove the car for about two years without issue until it was totaled in a pileup…
@@RobertRoussel Sorry to hear it was crashed. Thanks for the reply.
I guess it can be a bit of a lottery regarding these older pumps nowadays. I'll likely still do the repair as it can't hurt.
Thanks again.
Great Video!, although my pump seems to be working fine I enjoy stocking up on the info just in case I need it one day.
Thank you so much for the video!
Thank you! Very informative.
Nice video, very helpfull.Pump is the same on Range Rover P38
Thanks for the video. Wish I would have found this a while back but my beetle is in the shop as we speak with a new pump. Would love to see someone do a tear down of a clacking pump but we don’t have much for the alh out there.
Tom G came to like $960 shipped for a brand new Bosch 10mm. If it would have happened 6 months ago I would have gotten the 11mm but we have a bunch of alh cars so if I upgrade later we can have a use for it.
HEY I have P1562 and cannot find a solution. I would really like some help. I have a very interesting video I would like to show you to what happens in the injection pump when I turn key forward. Plz reply
Been getting p1248 Start of Injection Timing Regulation: Control Deviation. I've timed the injection pump and set the quantity and still having issues. Wondering if this will help my issue. Is this a code you're familiar with?
It’s been a while since I’ve been around these pumps, but I remember the timing advance is controlled by a solenoid. I never had issues with mine over the years I had the car, but it’s nothing to do with the quantity adjuster - in fact the solenoid is towards the bottom end of the pump if I remember correctly.
What I do know is that solenoid is responsible for advancing the injection timing up to 5 degrees as needed. The computer determines the advance needed based on temperatures. This is one of the genius designs features that made this car great - it’s why cold starts are easily achieved on this engine.
Thanks for the video, what name / type OBD dongle are you using ?
Thanks, this was a great video with lots of useful good information. What app / device did you use to communicate with the vehicle to read out the values?
I used OBDELEVEN. It’s very similar to VCDS, but cheaper. It’s not as user friendly as VCDS, but at a fraction the price, I’m willing to lookup how to do things with it. There is a new OBDELEVEN in beta right now, I’d wait and get that one if you can.
Great tips. Looks quite interesting, and I look forward to the new version which I'll probably get. I'm rebuilding one of these pumps now (from my Range Rover) so we'll see how it goes. It has the actuator error, but doesn't specify if it a low or high range error or something else. I'll try your adjustments and see if I can read out any values to adjust it. Thanks again!
Have you ever encountered shocks before you enter
Can you read that group with the basic 40 € obdeleven without pro license?
You have used soft soldering or hard soldering, because soft soldering can created a extra resistance.
Is it a tin or iron welding?
There's a way to measure voltage on modulating piston with a multimeter?
Thank you
very great video ! i have a quick question, i was driving my car probably abt 40 mph and i heard a loud pop then the car shut off and now wont turn back on it just cranks. engine code that comes up is code p1563 and leads me to your video , what should i do ? how can i fix this? the car is 2002 alh tdi jetta
Tom, I’ve been out of the TDI game for just over a year. My Golf got totaled in a four car pileup… that being said I would first inspect the timing belt and check the timing. Far too often those engine had timing issues. If not maintained properly with quality belts and tensioners they’re subject to failure.
@@RobertRoussel damn im sorry to hear that man n what would have caused that loud pop? i have the vcds tool but i cant check the timing without the car being able to start it just cranks and i had just timed the injection pump
@@tomgreen749, I was referring to the valve timing. I’ve heard too many stories of the timing belt giving up while people were driving. If the timing belt is okay I would check the valve timing to be sure it didn’t jump timing (also not unheard of for these engines). If you do indeed isolate it to the injection pump, I would take a look at your voltage readings when the key is turned on like in the video. Honestly though, I don’t know how that would explain a “loud pop”, which is why I would rule out engine timing first.
wat was the problem with the pump? Not starting or no power?
The issue was a rough (or bouncing) idle and lack of full throttle.
did the car also seem to have pump judder when cruising at 1400-2000rpm? wandering if this may be my fault as i have the idling issue you talk about here
My AHU engine does the same as yours, idles fine but has the dreaded judder. I'm seriously contemplating this repair, it's just the soldering that I'm concerned about, will the diesel eat away at it in time?
Will diesel purge clean the IP without having to open it up?
guess not it's magneic stuff
2 years later I know but..
Diesel purge is an ‘all fuel system cleaner’ and should clean most soluble contaminants from thd entirety of the fuel system. Any debris that is metallic in origin won’t be cleaned only physical cleansing can do that.. it was mentioned earlier in the video that debris will go two ways if it moves at all. Into the return pipe and back towards the tank or through the pump and only the injectors etc. very small particles can cause damage to moving components if no filters are fitted between tank and pump etc a poor quality filter may allow particles through into the pump and cause catastrophic damage in a very short period of time. Smaller particles have a less obvious effect but can still damage critical components etc.. when working on any part of the fuel system it’s very important to maintain a very high level of cleanliness etc.
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Mate what name obd were using cant u give the link ty
Oh wow . now i know how i can turn this electronic ve pump onto a drived by wire mechanical pump ?
I wouldn't do that, you're missing two components that a real mechanical VE pump has: First a mechanical governor with flyweights for idle and load IQ adjustments and a mechanical dynamic start of injection adjustment. These two are done by the EDC software in this pump. If you just put a wire string on it, it would totally run like shit, if it would run at all. You can try it though and show us how it went, would certainly be interesting to see.
Does anybody know how much voltage/current should give to coil ( 20:00 ) that moves the shaft ? I trying to build up some old mercedes motor.
Hi, which app you using on your phone?
OBDELEVEN. It's essentially a cheaper-android-only VCDS alternative. I use an iPhone myself, but I just use an old android phone someone was throwing out - I keep it in the door or the clove box.
Guys i need help with my diesel pump of a jetta 1.9 tdi
dem youtube sound....can't hear you.
I clean the quantity adjuster out and still get the same deal and he suggestions
Jesse Bruckner, I did at first too - like I explained in the video, you have to align the components precisely when reassembling. After you bolt the iron core back in around the eccentric shaft, I recommend taking a flashlight and making sure there is clearance between the two pieces throughout its entire movement. If it looks like it's touching at any point, loosen the core and reposition it accordingly. Cleaning the QA is not fixing the problem, but instead fixing the symptoms. Clean the QA with proper alignment and you'll be back in it soon - just as I had to learn the hard way.
I shim the a QA with Paper it's exactly a wine on both sides then Stuck it back together solder together still doing the exact same thing ????? What next
I'd recommend two things:
(1) With the key off, take the cover off the QA and move the shaft by handing - be very careful to notice if there is any point in which there is more resistance as you rotate the shaft fully. The shaft should be able to freely move from the highest point to its lowest point (while looking at the QA from above).
(2) check the voltage readouts with VCDS or OBDeleven in group 19. Be sure that you positioned the "moveable metal ring" in the correct place when reassembling - its the black piece that bolts to the shaft. If you place it too high it will trigger the P1561 and if you put it too low it will throw the P1562. Check the voltages mentioned in the descriptions if you don't know them.
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