Great video. Almost no "how to use a torque wrench" video ever mentions the 90 degree angle point. As with the incorrect grip position, changing this angle will deviate from the desired torque. To go one step further, the 90 degrees must be maintained around the axis of rotation.
Of course I always relax my tw 5.2 and 6.2 after use, I knew about that.. I just need to get my bike toolbox right now and check the hinges on it are ok 🏃♂️💨
the way Truman says "keep the wrench clean, keep the wrench in a box" suggests years of exasperation at people pushing torque wrenches around their workbench, probably dropping them on the ground often.
One shop I worked in the past, none of them actually care about torque tool etiquette. One of them in particular, did three really wrong things with it. 1) Never winding it back down to its lowest setting. 2) Choked the wrench when torquing bolts down. 3) Spam-torques bolts he tightened. (at least three to five times at once!) The clicks drove me nuts! Because of the first mistake, which is what everybody did except me (I use my own), it was miscalibrated when it was only a few months old. Mine was used since October 2020 and is still in-spec to this day. The torque wrench the shop used (a high-end one in fact, but not the highest-end in the country)? It's an Effetto Mariposa Giustaforza, a very expensive Italian torque wrench.
Pretty good video. A little funny that you properly say to hold by the handle but in one cut scene towards the end, you show it being used with a thumb on the shaft.
I use my finger indicator for torque measure - if it's about dislocate, that's 5 Nm. However, if my elbow hard click, I knew that's 12 Nm. For higher values I used my spine - crack means 40 Nm.
saying where on the handle to hold the torque wrench is actually really informative. It turns out I've been doing it wrong from day one. I have always held the handle really low because I found that is where I felt the best click when turning it. I guess holding it further down though and having it a tiny bit loose is better then holding it too high and over torquing the bolt.
That was the only sketchy thing in the video. The head will deflect only when it sees the set torque. If you stay past the pivot point it is going to click when the set torque is reached. The felt torque in your arm and hand will be greater with a shorter moment arm near the pivot point and less out on the end. But the wrench does not care what you feel.
What was stated in the video is correct and it is not your perceived torque we are talking about. It was demonstrated that the applied torque is different when holding the wrench at different lengths. A majority of click style and other torque wrenches are "length dependent". Lots of fun videos and threads online about this if you'd like to delve into it.
@@danclay8229 hey, I just got a video recommended for me, I'm assuming because I watched this video. It's by the youtube channel "The Bike Sauce" he posted a video today called, "Are $20 Budget Torque Keys ACCURATE??" and he shows, using a torque meter what they are talking about here with "length dependent" torque wrenches. Maybe check it out.
The textbook way to use the torque wrench also includes using your other hand to support the head of the wrench in order to eliminate any side forces on the fastener and to achieve a more accurate reading.
Crap. I have been storing them at zero. I’ve had both the 5.2 and 6.2 for about 2 years and take very good care of them. I just adjusted them to 2nm and 10 nm, respectively, for storage. What does storing them relaxed at below 2 & 10 do? Are they still ok? Thanks for the videos!
One shop I worked in, nobody there except me (I use my own anyway) did that. The result? A very expensive Effetto Mariposa miscalibrated in only a few months since new. Mine entered service in October 2020 and is still in-spec.
Is it necessary to “warm up” the torque wrench before you’re going to actually start using it? I’ve heard to set it to a low torque, tighten the bolt so the spring clicks, do it 10 times, and it’s now ready for “real” torque to start. This is supposedly the “advantage” to a digital torque wrench, you set the number and off you go.
That's only if the torque wrench wasn't used in a long time to redistribute the lubrication throughout its internals along the shaft. If it was used frequently (like in a shop), there's no need to wind up and back down before use.
I have a TW6.2 whose adjustment knob has popped out slightly -- I can push it back in and turn it to adjust the wrench's setting, but the knob just pops back out after I do so. Will this affect its calibration?
You forgot to mention that there is absolutely no need to double click the torque wrench. It achieves nothing, other than making you look like a complete wally.
Torque wrenches are useful for bikes since you can't always measure fastener strech. Fact. You can't even screw calipers bolts on modern huge calipers without swearing a lot. Fact. Don't use the ball kids. I know the temptation is strong. Maybe an opinion 😂
A fun demonstration of this would be with spokes. Comparing the torque at the nipple to the tension of the spoke. Many have asked for a nipple torque wrench instead of using a tension meter not realizing how much more effective the tension meter is.
@@skicarnie that’s not closed captioning, rather it’s YouTune automatic captioning that not only unreliable but not a good substitute to proper closed captioning
Great video. Almost no "how to use a torque wrench" video ever mentions the 90 degree angle point. As with the incorrect grip position, changing this angle will deviate from the desired torque. To go one step further, the 90 degrees must be maintained around the axis of rotation.
Of course I always relax my tw 5.2 and 6.2 after use, I knew about that.. I just need to get my bike toolbox right now and check the hinges on it are ok 🏃♂️💨
To me the clic of a tork wrench is so satisfying,,i could asmr this all day.
the way Truman says "keep the wrench clean, keep the wrench in a box" suggests years of exasperation at people pushing torque wrenches around their workbench, probably dropping them on the ground often.
One shop I worked in the past, none of them actually care about torque tool etiquette. One of them in particular, did three really wrong things with it.
1) Never winding it back down to its lowest setting.
2) Choked the wrench when torquing bolts down.
3) Spam-torques bolts he tightened. (at least three to five times at once!) The clicks drove me nuts!
Because of the first mistake, which is what everybody did except me (I use my own), it was miscalibrated when it was only a few months old. Mine was used since October 2020 and is still in-spec to this day.
The torque wrench the shop used (a high-end one in fact, but not the highest-end in the country)? It's an Effetto Mariposa Giustaforza, a very expensive Italian torque wrench.
Let's put it this way: we get phone calls.
Pretty good video. A little funny that you properly say to hold by the handle but in one cut scene towards the end, you show it being used with a thumb on the shaft.
I use my finger indicator for torque measure - if it's about dislocate, that's 5 Nm. However, if my elbow hard click, I knew that's 12 Nm. For higher values I used my spine - crack means 40 Nm.
saying where on the handle to hold the torque wrench is actually really informative. It turns out I've been doing it wrong from day one. I have always held the handle really low because I found that is where I felt the best click when turning it. I guess holding it further down though and having it a tiny bit loose is better then holding it too high and over torquing the bolt.
That was the only sketchy thing in the video. The head will deflect only when it sees the set torque. If you stay past the pivot point it is going to click when the set torque is reached. The felt torque in your arm and hand will be greater with a shorter moment arm near the pivot point and less out on the end. But the wrench does not care what you feel.
What was stated in the video is correct and it is not your perceived torque we are talking about. It was demonstrated that the applied torque is different when holding the wrench at different lengths. A majority of click style and other torque wrenches are "length dependent". Lots of fun videos and threads online about this if you'd like to delve into it.
That is fascinating because there is nothing that should cause that. I will certainly check into it futher.
@@danclay8229 hey, I just got a video recommended for me, I'm assuming because I watched this video. It's by the youtube channel "The Bike Sauce" he posted a video today called, "Are $20 Budget Torque Keys ACCURATE??" and he shows, using a torque meter what they are talking about here with "length dependent" torque wrenches. Maybe check it out.
@@danclay8229 someone linked to a video explaining why in the comments a day before you made your comment proving what park tools said is correct.
The textbook way to use the torque wrench also includes using your other hand to support the head of the wrench in order to eliminate any side forces on the fastener and to achieve a more accurate reading.
Cheers, that helped me, at least.
I love my Park Tool 5.2 Torque Wrench.
Merveilleux 😊❤
6.2 - my next purchase!
When it says relaxed to the lowest on the scale would that be 2nm for the 5.2 and 10nm for the 6.2?
That is correct.
Crap. I have been storing them at zero. I’ve had both the 5.2 and 6.2 for about 2 years and take very good care of them. I just adjusted them to 2nm and 10 nm, respectively, for storage. What does storing them relaxed at below 2 & 10 do? Are they still ok? Thanks for the videos!
I'm a mechanical engineer and I never thought of unloading the spring of a torque wrench👌
One shop I worked in, nobody there except me (I use my own anyway) did that. The result? A very expensive Effetto Mariposa miscalibrated in only a few months since new. Mine entered service in October 2020 and is still in-spec.
Is it necessary to “warm up” the torque wrench before you’re going to actually start using it? I’ve heard to set it to a low torque, tighten the bolt so the spring clicks, do it 10 times, and it’s now ready for “real” torque to start.
This is supposedly the “advantage” to a digital torque wrench, you set the number and off you go.
That's only if the torque wrench wasn't used in a long time to redistribute the lubrication throughout its internals along the shaft. If it was used frequently (like in a shop), there's no need to wind up and back down before use.
Was it in range 1/4 7/8 usable range 100 lb 25;-90 ftlbs add running totrque plus reg torque equils final torque is it in calabaration
Explanation of internal torque-wrench mechanism and why grip position matters: th-cam.com/video/0f746pF1xc0/w-d-xo.html
I have a TW6.2 whose adjustment knob has popped out slightly -- I can push it back in and turn it to adjust the wrench's setting, but the knob just pops back out after I do so. Will this affect its calibration?
Yes this will. It would be best to send that one back in for calibration.
What is the purpose of the "switch to rotate ratcheting direction" in this tool, if it only torques clockwise?
The TW-5.2 and 6.2 can torque in both directions.
You forgot to mention that there is absolutely no need to double click the torque wrench. It achieves nothing, other than making you look like a complete wally.
Tell that to my spam-torquing ex-colleague.
Torque wrenches are useful for bikes since you can't always measure fastener strech. Fact.
You can't even screw calipers bolts on modern huge calipers without swearing a lot. Fact.
Don't use the ball kids. I know the temptation is strong.
Maybe an opinion 😂
Only the mechanically-inept use ball-ends for any tightening force beyond 2 Nm. There's so little support.
A fun demonstration of this would be with spokes. Comparing the torque at the nipple to the tension of the spoke. Many have asked for a nipple torque wrench instead of using a tension meter not realizing how much more effective the tension meter is.
How come you still refuse to caption your content to make it more accessible?
There is a "cc" button in the top right corner.
@@skicarnie that’s not closed captioning, rather it’s YouTune automatic captioning that not only unreliable but not a good substitute to proper closed captioning
Sorry, I misunderstood your comment. I thought you meant they refused to use cc, but now I understand that you mean it could be improved.