Richard Raffan turns a bark-rim bowl
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ย. 2022
- This shows in real time how I go about making natural-edge bowls. For in-depth explanations you need to refer to my books Turning Bowls and The Art of Turned Bowls, or Turned Bowl Design if you can find a copy second-hand. www.richardraffan.com.au/book...
![[UNCUT] ที่นี่ที่แรก ปู - หาญส์ พูดถึงมหากาพย์หนี้สิ้น I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 10 ก.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KDNA9DZ0p4U/mqdefault.jpg)
Always fun to watch Richard!
It's a pleasure to watch you work !!!!!!!!
Beautiful bowl and a terrific video. Thank you!
Beautiful bowl! Thanks for sharing!
As always, it was a pleasure to watch.
Beautiful Richard thanks for sharing your expertise
You always gave a very interesting and very informative video Richard. Grestly appreciated. Thank you !!
Outstanding, RR! Thanks for another hit.
Thanks, Matt. There's going to be a video on removing the foot.
Beautiful natural edge bowl Richard.
Ein wunderschönes Teil 👌 das haben Sie sehr schön gemacht 🤩👏
My favorite teacher.
Excellent teaching - and you make it look easy ... almost !
Nice looking bowl Richard. Thanks for the talk through the stages of turning, you learn bits and pieces from every turning.
Take care
Cheers
Harold
Love it. Please keep making videos.
I think making videos is my new hobby.
Super travail BRAVO et merci pour le partage
Thank u again for sharing all ur knowledge u are a legend Sir Richard 😂
A very nice bowl Richard. It's good to see you again. I first saw you on a Taunton Press VCS(?) tape in the 1970's. I still have the tape but alas not the player. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
The VHS tapes were later published as DVDs and should still be available.
I've had a decent time using a dry dish sponge as a soft sanding block for live edge stuff. Lovely piece.
Thanks for sharing
How uncanny, I've just been asked to make a bowl out of a piece of old Tas Blackwood log, that still has the bark on it. I was thinking of doing the same as you turned in this video, so I picked up quite a bit of info again. Thanks for sharing Richard.
Bravo!
great job buddy
Than you for these videos. I hope you'll come back to the U.S to do demos again.
Very unlikely I'm afraid due to my age and associated insurance costs in the US.
Very nice
Very cool 😎
Richard, thanks for the lesson/s. Great touch, really nice finished product. Sorry you had to take one for the team.
Take one what? What am I missing.....
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning nearly a finger nail!
@@jefferybilling9093 Right!! That was a close one.
Love these videos. Learning from a (The)master is a great opportunity that doesn’t come around everyday. I really appreciate how he explains everything as he goes along. Does anyone know if that is a “midi lathe”? I’m still trying to decide what to get. Last time I turned was in shop class lol, but can’t wait to get started.
This is a Vicmarc VL150 that swings 300mm which is just under one foot. It's a wonderful small lathe that might be classed as a midi. Most turners probably don't need a capacity larger than this offers.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thanks so much! I’ll definitely check it out. Best.
Beautiful! Thanks, bud!
Richard. You are brilliant! The quality of your completed projects is exceptional and seeing how you achieve them is so valuable. But can I ask a personal question? How many chucks have you got? Which ones are the most important? Which are the good ones to have, which are not to be missed? And if you're able can you say which brands to go for as there are so many Chinese ones which may not be up to the mark; but maybe they are. Sorry if you've already done a video on Chucks but as a relatively newbie I am coming up short with my very limited. Chinese chuck!
This is my current selection of chucks. th-cam.com/video/qKLjtu6n2o8/w-d-xo.html I used to have most of these duplicated on Vicmarc's larger VM120s, plus a few much larger dovetail jaws. A few years back I downsized, selling of most of my timber and blanks, tools and lathes.
I'm impressed by your scraper! Do you ever sharpen on the grinder or do you just hone it (and is that a diamond stone you're honing with?) Maybe I should stop sharpening my scrapers on the grinder?
Thanks for all these videos, Richard. It's been great to see you back at the lathe again! Is there somewhere that the 9/16" shallow gouge can be purchased these days? I remember getting one very similar from Craft Supplies USA a few years ago. (I think they just called it "the gouge") but they don't seem to carry it anymore.
This 9/16-in is/was one of the Raffan Signature tools originally made for Craft Supplies. I can't see any 9/16-in gouges in the Henry Taylor catalogue. The ½-in spindle gouges are equally effective.
Great video sir..... 5/16 gouge is like a spindle gouge right?
I assume henry taylor or hamlet?
Yes, Henry Taylor but I'm not sure they still make it.
I'm really enjoying your videos Richard. I consider myself a beginner even though I have been turning for about 5 years. Where I live I have limited places to pick up chucks and would like to pick up a better quality than the one I have. Do you have a recommendation or does anyone else?
Woodturning chucks tend to be available thorough specialist woodturning and woodworking stores. Vicmarc chucks are widely considered the best, I think by a considerable margin. I reckon they're better made, with wider range of movement than most, and way more ueful jaws. th-cam.com/video/DV2T6oJgCi4/w-d-xo.html
Richard, thanks once again. Whilst I am completely self-taught (apart from Woodwork lessons 65 years ago at school!) I still get tips on technique and tool use from your videos. A question if I may, what brand is the 90deg sander you use? I have been looking for a powered one for ages.
Chris (Ternabout).
It's a Makita angle drill. They are very expensive compared to angle grinders, but worth it if you're turning a lot of bowls.
I know you've said in several videos that you are "well out of practice" but from my viewpoint it doesn't show. I've learned several chucking and tool handling things from watching your videos that have been very useful in my own shop.
I'm a combination of self taught/ TH-cam taught turner. I'm very glad that you started making these videos.
If I can ask, why did you use the 2 point chuck at the start instead of just a screw chuck set in a cleared centre of the blank? Is there a key use that I'm not seeing or was it just on the lathe?
So he can adjust the bowl and line up the bark. Can’t adjust if he used the screw
Hope that helps
Brad Brooks is correct. I want the two high points of the rim in one plane, the lowest in another. So the 2-spur drive is aligned along the ridge between the two highest points so the blank can be pivotted about that axis to position the lower points of the rim. You can't do that if the blank is fixed on a screaw chuck or pin chuck. There are other options described and discussed in greater detail in my book Turning Bowls. www.richardraffan.com.au/books-and-dvds/
@@downsouthwoodturning Many thanks for your input.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Is that 2 point spur something you made? Is there a video? Thx for sharing your wealth of knowledge Sir!
Hi Richard, great idea with the drive are they just mild steel bolts. loving the videos
Yep! Standard steel nuts and bolts.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thankyou
Does one get the oil and wax into the bark as well?
How many decades do you have to turn before you feel comfortable wrapping your hand around the bark to support the back of the turning?
Less than one
Incredible , how did the thin bark keep sticking to the wood ? What kind of wood is it ? looks itself to me a bit like ash , walnut ?
This is claret ash felled in winter. If a tree is felled in summer when the sap is rising in the tree the bark is more likely to come off.
What type of wood was that? Great video, I wonder if Douglas fir would work ( 1” thick bark)
This is claret ash. Douglas fir will be more of a challenge to cut cleanly given the soft timber between the hard annular rings. Almost any hardwood would be a better choice.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thank you for taking the time to reply. I did think it would be to soft, I just happen to have a load of it.
@@ianbedwell4871 Give it a go and see how you get on.....
Richard, thank you for your very informative videos. I was wondering what sander you were using. Looks like a 4.5” grinder. What RPM is it running at? Keep up the great videos. Johnnie C
I power sand using a Makita Angle Drill which runs about 1300rpm. It's variable speed. The sanding pads are 75mm (3-in).
Thank you for your reply. I have enjoyed your videos and books. I think your “Turning Wood” is the best turning instruction book and I have read quite a few.
@@johnchalikian3239 Well thank you. It's been in print since 1985 - close on 40 years and still going strong along with the Complete Illustrated Guilde to Turning.
Question: what degree angle are your scrapers ground to?
45° on the end or nose of all my gouges and scrapers. On my asymmetric round-nose scrapers the bevels become steeper and steeper until they blend with the side of the tool. A 45° bevel on the side makes a scraper far too grabby.
Can we skip the issue with sanding down the leading edge by going backwards as well?
You can give it a go but I think you'll still end up with a rim of uneven thickness. I long ago found power sanding give you more control.
So, have you lost the T-bar from the Vicmark chucks or did you just want something with a timber handle? Which is something I would do. 😁
The L-shaped handle enables me to open and close the jaws almost as fast as on a lever-operated chuck. However, seeing me use this handle Vicmarc warned me it's easy to apply force suffecient to damage the scroll inside the chuck.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Having seen Ashley Harwood heaving on the long end of an Allen key on her Vicmarc chucks I suspect they're being cautious but point taken. 👍
why does the type of wood dictate if you use beeswax or not on top of the BLO? you mentioned it at 23:57.
On very dense woods like Gidgee or African blackwood I find I don't need the oil and that wax is enough. On more open grain having the BLO penetrate the grain speeds finishing. Sometimes I don't use wax at all but for no very good reason. When I refurbish a surface it's usually straight BLO.
How do you get the bark not to fall off so easy?
To retain the bark for natural-edge bowls it helps to fell the tree in winter when the sap isn't rising as fast as it does in summer. Apart from that, ash bark tends to stay attached.
Eugh sanding, but there's no one I would rather take advice from. Nice job Richard. Have you any idea where this style of turning originated from? Best regards. 🙃
The only influence on my turning techniques came from Rendall Crang who did all the turning in Douglas Hart's workshop early in 1970. I learnt by watching Rendall Crang over four months and retain only back-hollowing into endgrain and the bowl making proceedure. I taught myself to use a skew chisel. I developed the asymmetric bowl gouge initally hoping to eliminate the catches I had with the square ground bowl gouges then manufactured. The next professional turner I saw was the famous American bowl turner Bob Stocksdale in 1978. So I feel my style of turning is mostly mine, although it must have been influenced by others in the mid-1980s when I began teaching.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thanks. I'll look up Bob Stocksdale.
@@johnmitchell1614 Watching Stocksdale I saw the benefits of power sanding.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning R.I.P. Bob Stocksdale. Was he the one who started making natural edged bowl then?
@@johnmitchell1614At the first British International Woodturning Symposium at Parnham in 1980, Bob Stocksdale, Jim Partridge, and I, each came up with a natural edge bowl. I'm sure we each thought we'd turned something unique and were disappointed to see two others in the instant gallery.
What wood did you use for the bowl? Thanks.
Claret ash.