Cracking video Jez, incredibly helpful. It reminds me of something Steve House said in an Alpine Mentors video, "Don't rush, we don't have time to waste". A bit of forethought goes a long way.
Good stuff, on my first multipitch the pair ahead used a 400cm sling at belay 1, I used a 120 with essentially the same gear (x3 nuts/x2nuts+1 cam in the same vertical crack), but then I did one pitch using the rope in the belay, had to rebuild it when my mate got up to me to lead, and also to get 2 larger cams back, I'd most likely have been fine but I wasn't 100% confident and preferred to have my full compliment of cams on me for the lead. He had said he might want to lead but my judgement wasn't on par with his, he wasn't having a good time but I was, and that counts for a lot, reading the demeanour of your buddy and making sure they're good and happy. Lesson learned, onwards and upwards 👍
I love my cordelette for trad anchors. I carry a 6mm 30ft cordelette, seems kinda long but its actually super useful to have that extra length. And if I need to eat up length in the anchor I have options like the quad. Highly recommend a cordelette.
Hi Jez, another great video, thanks. I was block leading Corvus, a classic mountain Diff in the Lakes a couple of weeks ago using guide mode in a 3, bringing up two seconds at once. Should definitely have brought a cordelette for this (PPPPPP, David Simpson), but didn't have one with me. At one point there's a massive ledge but only small wires for the belay, widely spaced. I ended up joining 2 wires with an equalised 120mm sling and then added a 3rd with a 240mm shortened with an overhand to equalise it as well as I could. I don't remember if you've covered this before, but it seemed like an ok solution but wondering if there's a better way do this? Thanks..
This is by far the best climbing channel on TH-cam regarding the pros and cons of different techniques
Really like you taking us through your thought processes. Always useful to have something quick to make you question or think about what we do.
Cracking video Jez, incredibly helpful.
It reminds me of something Steve House said in an Alpine Mentors video, "Don't rush, we don't have time to waste". A bit of forethought goes a long way.
building belays is probably my favorite part of climbing. so much problem solving and creativity
Incredibly usefull advice for somebody starting out!
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Cheers :)
Good stuff, on my first multipitch the pair ahead used a 400cm sling at belay 1, I used a 120 with essentially the same gear (x3 nuts/x2nuts+1 cam in the same vertical crack), but then I did one pitch using the rope in the belay, had to rebuild it when my mate got up to me to lead, and also to get 2 larger cams back, I'd most likely have been fine but I wasn't 100% confident and preferred to have my full compliment of cams on me for the lead. He had said he might want to lead but my judgement wasn't on par with his, he wasn't having a good time but I was, and that counts for a lot, reading the demeanour of your buddy and making sure they're good and happy. Lesson learned, onwards and upwards 👍
Useful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
I love my cordelette for trad anchors. I carry a 6mm 30ft cordelette, seems kinda long but its actually super useful to have that extra length. And if I need to eat up length in the anchor I have options like the quad. Highly recommend a cordelette.
Top stuff, J 👏
Hi Jez, another great video, thanks. I was block leading Corvus, a classic mountain Diff in the Lakes a couple of weeks ago using guide mode in a 3, bringing up two seconds at once. Should definitely have brought a cordelette for this (PPPPPP, David Simpson), but didn't have one with me. At one point there's a massive ledge but only small wires for the belay, widely spaced. I ended up joining 2 wires with an equalised 120mm sling and then added a 3rd with a 240mm shortened with an overhand to equalise it as well as I could. I don't remember if you've covered this before, but it seemed like an ok solution but wondering if there's a better way do this? Thanks..
Can you do building belay for beginner/intermediate video
, Prior planning prevents piss poor performance .