Hey, Colin! We just bought a RH 250 6X4. It ships next week and we're super excited. I'd love to see a video featuring that particular press, using it to explain proper press maintenance. Thanks, man!
Thank you! It's actually a Riley Hopkins Laser Guiding System with a camera mount clamped to a 2x4" in the ceiling rafters! Quoted by our very professional camera guy ;)
Hey thanks for the video. So on an actual print would you tape/mask off the registration marks so that they aren't visible on the actual prints? What is the best way to block off your registration marks so they're not printed on the garment?
Thank you so much for all you are doing. I am very grateful for this knowledge. It will come back to reward you I will make sure of that. Much love and respect from my Tribe to yours 💪❤️
the one I am using in the video I got waaaaayyyy back when ROQ was just starting out so we don't have those anymore. Here is a link to one on the Ryonet site. www.screenprinting.com/products/inspection-eye-loupe-with-10x-magnification-1-lense
colin huggins another idea instead of using tape, could you use a transfer from HTV? Might be a bit thicker and easier to wipe off/clean. Just tape the edges down? Might have to experiment with that as well.
@@Z_DiB There are several clear tapes that come in the rolls you are talking about. Clear Packing Tape is just easy to find and easy to talk about. Everyone can easily get some :)
Im researching as much as I can before I buy my equipment and start a basement side gig. I saw where you only flashed after you laid the base white but when you went to other colors, you didn't flash. Is that the correct sequence? why wouldn't you flash after every color? Super new into screen printing, sorry if i'm not describing things correctly. Thanks
I was printing wet on wet. Which is something you can do with the correct screen mesh count and some practice. It can be easy to make mistakes doing this. Flashing after every color to maintain crispness in your print is 100% acceptable.
I would like to see more on color seperation via illustrator or photoshop even older versions of the software because not all of us can afford the fees to upgrade... well, not yet anyway.
Great video Colin - as is all your fine work and wisdom! I notice the crosshair placement marks outside all corners and side centers of the print. Are those marks permanent, or made with some kind of removable marker?
HI Mark - did you watch the previous video to this one - showing how the art is separated? There is a section in which the registration marks are already placed in the art while the separations are worked on. When printed - the registration marks are in the exact same place on all the films. Line up to the registration marks - and the design is "In Register!".
HI! Around waist high is great. There are 2 things to consider when deciding press/platen height. 1 - how far over you will lean when you load a shirt and print. Too much lean and you can start to have lower back problems. 2 - how much leverage you can have over your squeegee - meaning the lower it is, the easier it is to apply print pressure. So finding the right balance for you is very important.
That's my habit - you can watch the screen move exactly where it needs to go if you move them both together. One at a time can involve a little guess work.
@@colinhuggins6164 yes so true. I think that might be the reason my last project didn't register correctly. Or that my art work on the computer is off when centering the reg marks to the design.
Hi @Sanctified Supply Co! The Riley Hopkins 300! very nice micros on this press. www.screenprinting.com/collections/riley-hopkins-riley-300-press/products/riley-hopkins-300-screen-printing-press-with-xyz-micro-registration
need one of these at my work. i work with a really old (1980s) carousel so if i want to adjust the rego once its clamped down i have to use a mallet to tap the screen into registration 😂 not the best but it will register a 5 color process print just fine
Hello I'm having trouble leveling my screen to get the off contact,,seems like my 250 press came very tilted heads,,i already tried using the tilting knob, and the bolt of has to come all the way out
Good morning, @Carlos Rodriguez ! let's connect and get you sorted out. email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or success@ryonet.com and anyone on the team can help. thanks!
Hi Ted! Are you asking about the quick release levers in the middle of the print head? I am using those to release the pressure keeping the 2 plates together so I can make micro adjustments. I will then tighten the 2 plates together with those knobs to keep the screen from moving. If that didn't answer the question please let us know!
I have this press and mine will NOT hold registration for a 4 color job I’m doing. Every time I set it and go to do the test print, it shifts! Then it will hold and I load up the platens and by the time I go to print it all of my top colors have shifted!! I have the 6/4 RH 250 with the green arms. I tried everything even resetting the micros. Based is choked .20 and top colors spread .003. WTF am I doing wrong to where the print head shifts out of registration on its own?!!
@johnl805 Sounds like a frustrating situation, but you’re definitely not alone-it’s happened to the best of us. If your print heads are shifting out of registration, here are a few things to check: Tighten Print Head & Micro Locks: Double-check that all the knobs and micro-registration locks are fully tightened after adjustments. If any of them are slightly loose, even vibration from printing can cause the head to shift. Check the Off-Contact & Pallet Level: If the off-contact is too high or uneven, it can cause the screen to "snap" back inconsistently, shifting the print head. Make sure your pallets are level and your off-contact is consistent across all stations. Inspect the Print Arm Bolts: Since you have the RH 250 with the green arms, check the bolts that hold the print arms to the press. If they’re even a little loose, it can cause movement during printing. Look at Your Choke/Spread Settings: It sounds like you’re dialed in on the artwork, but if the print shifts even a hair, that .003 spread might not be enough cushion. Sometimes adding a bit more choke on the base can help mask small shifts. If you’ve already tried these steps and it's still moving, reach out to our support to see if they can help troubleshoot: 1-360-576-7188 or www.screenprinting.com/pages/contact-customer-success or chat with our team online Monday - Friday, 6 AM to 5 PM Pacific
Its hard to find something in the house that will replace stencil remover or haze remover but we used to use washing powder as a degreaser for years, not ideal but it cleans the screen reasonably well. Hope this helps
Are we trying to clean plastisol or Water Base? If its plastisol, you need a solvent type cleaner. If waterbase, you can try a tiny tiny bit of dish soap and plain water.
Typically it is not recommended as white inks are maxed out (or are very close) for pigment load. However, your white ink may be different and I recommend talking with your ink manufacturer.
Hey, good morning Tom! Colin's point was for the printer to recognize that screens move when they pull the squeegee and to compensate for that slight flex and movement. There's no exact rule here because every printer uses different amounts of force, off contact, etc... I have practiced what he's referring to at times and I use just a hair line of difference. I would find what works best for you. Happy printing!
Hi @cornaynay ! with out knowing exactly what press you have it may be a little difficult to diagnose over YT, but i would be happy to help. LMK what press you are using. Also, if it's easier for you, you can email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or call 3605767188.
I'm having issues adjusting my tilt,,I'm nowhere near close of a 1 1/6 of an inch i have followed the manual instructions and no success,,its like the rod from the knob always coming off the female rod end!
I've got to be doing something wrong, or missing the point of something. It takes me HOURS to up my 250, and I'm still getting pretty poor prints. I don't understand why the tilt if there's the nuts on the back of the screen, and then why I end up a mile off once I tighten everything.
HI Eric! I am the guy in the video - did you go through and set everything up like I did in the beginning? I also talk about registering a 3 color design in the Riley 150 video. That one may cover some nuances that are missed in this video - link below: th-cam.com/video/6Av0yYEQsIw/w-d-xo.html In that video I am almost in perfect registration. If I can register with the 150, I know you can do it on the 250. Start back at square one and follow the walkthrough I do in the beginning to set everything up. If things are still not working, we do have some awesome team members that may be able to help you out through video chat. Hope things get better soon!
Love the press but you guys are so late on this already figured it all out after searching down the internet trying to find video on how to used the registration ...but hey better late then never......also I really think your camera men could do some BETTER close up shots showing the movement/adjustments your camera angles are not good.....anyway I still give you guys a 👍because you finally make a video on this and hey you guys are Ryanet so yeah 👍
I have used a Riley 300 for years and loved it. Got a 250 last year and absolutely hate it in comparison to the 300. The micros, off contact and tilt and are all a hundred times more difficult to use. Spend so much more time setting up a multi color print. Things that take seconds on the 300 will take 20 minutes on the 250. If you want an efficient press save your money and by a 300. 250 just makes me frustrated. Not good for a business. Can be fine for a hobby printer. Customer support is very helpful but the 250 is just inferior. You get what you pay for! Not knocking Riley as a brand. Good people and good customer service.
This was a most needed video guys! registering screens is not as easy as it looks
Thank you! Keep working at it as practice will make perfect!
So glad I came across this video. Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, Colin! We just bought a RH 250 6X4. It ships next week and we're super excited. I'd love to see a video featuring that particular press, using it to explain proper press maintenance. Thanks, man!
We will probably do one in the future. But the same suggestions will apply across all Riley 250's :)
Great demo, thank you! Most impressive part was putting the wrong color and not saying any profanities
you right, i always watch his videos with my kids around.
Great video! Quick question, how did you attach the camera mount for the overhead shots?
Thank you! It's actually a Riley Hopkins Laser Guiding System with a camera mount clamped to a 2x4" in the ceiling rafters! Quoted by our very professional camera guy ;)
A registration video would be cool on the 150
Hey thanks for the video. So on an actual print would you tape/mask off the registration marks so that they aren't visible on the actual prints? What is the best way to block off your registration marks so they're not printed on the garment?
Hi! You can put a piece of tape across the back of the screen covering your registration marks.
@@Ryonet Perfect. Thanks a lot!
Thank you so much for all you are doing. I am very grateful for this knowledge. It will come back to reward you I will make sure of that. Much love and respect from my Tribe to yours 💪❤️
Just want to say great tutorial! Where can I find the micro lenses you use in the video see the Micro registration
the one I am using in the video I got waaaaayyyy back when ROQ was just starting out so we don't have those anymore. Here is a link to one on the Ryonet site. www.screenprinting.com/products/inspection-eye-loupe-with-10x-magnification-1-lense
@@colinhuggins6164 Thank you, Colin Huggins
Same principle on alignment if you push instead of pull?
same principle yes. Put the registration marks a little above instead of below.
colin huggins another idea instead of using tape, could you use a transfer from HTV? Might be a bit thicker and easier to wipe off/clean. Just tape the edges down? Might have to experiment with that as well.
@@Z_DiB There are several clear tapes that come in the rolls you are talking about. Clear Packing Tape is just easy to find and easy to talk about. Everyone can easily get some :)
thank you so much
Im researching as much as I can before I buy my equipment and start a basement side gig. I saw where you only flashed after you laid the base white but when you went to other colors, you didn't flash. Is that the correct sequence? why wouldn't you flash after every color? Super new into screen printing, sorry if i'm not describing things correctly. Thanks
I was printing wet on wet. Which is something you can do with the correct screen mesh count and some practice. It can be easy to make mistakes doing this. Flashing after every color to maintain crispness in your print is 100% acceptable.
@@Ryonet Thank you so much! I will be using a Ryonet RXP LED exposure unit in my start up! Im excited to get this going!
I would like to see more on color seperation via illustrator or photoshop even older versions of the software because not all of us can afford the fees to upgrade... well, not yet anyway.
Great video Colin - as is all your fine work and wisdom! I notice the crosshair placement marks outside all corners and side centers of the print. Are those marks permanent, or made with some kind of removable marker?
HI Mark - did you watch the previous video to this one - showing how the art is separated? There is a section in which the registration marks are already placed in the art while the separations are worked on. When printed - the registration marks are in the exact same place on all the films. Line up to the registration marks - and the design is "In Register!".
Please do a video on the Riley 300
trying to find info on best placement of the press itself. How high should it be set? waist high? just above or below waist?
HI! Around waist high is great. There are 2 things to consider when deciding press/platen height. 1 - how far over you will lean when you load a shirt and print. Too much lean and you can start to have lower back problems. 2 - how much leverage you can have over your squeegee - meaning the lower it is, the easier it is to apply print pressure. So finding the right balance for you is very important.
Soo do you want to turn the micros at the same time?
That's my habit - you can watch the screen move exactly where it needs to go if you move them both together. One at a time can involve a little guess work.
@@colinhuggins6164 yes so true. I think that might be the reason my last project didn't register correctly. Or that my art work on the computer is off when centering the reg marks to the design.
What would you say is the easiest press to register multiple color designs on?
Hi @Sanctified Supply Co!
The Riley Hopkins 300! very nice micros on this press. www.screenprinting.com/collections/riley-hopkins-riley-300-press/products/riley-hopkins-300-screen-printing-press-with-xyz-micro-registration
does a .5 choke mean 1/2 a pixel?
It does!
need one of these at my work. i work with a really old (1980s) carousel so if i want to adjust the rego once its clamped down i have to use a mallet to tap the screen into registration 😂 not the best but it will register a 5 color process print just fine
Whatever it takes to get the job done!
@@Ryonet That's my motto. Great job on the print, it looks awesome and i'm going to steal that tape trick too. love from new zealand
The very first manual press I used was a 1980's Hopkins 4x1 with no micros and wood screens. Double tap left or right for registration adjustment!
Can I add that tilt control to my micro Riley I bought from you, apparently before it was invented.
Hi @Will T! Do you know what model of press you have?
@@Ryonet It is Riley 150 4 color 1 station with micro adjustments
Hello I'm having trouble leveling my screen to get the off contact,,seems like my 250 press came very tilted heads,,i already tried using the tilting knob, and the bolt of has to come all the way out
Good morning, @Carlos Rodriguez ! let's connect and get you sorted out. email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or success@ryonet.com and anyone on the team can help. thanks!
I’ve been having the same issue with my 250 press did you ever find a solution? I’ve tried almost everything and I can’t get it level with the pallet
What do the black clamps do?
Hi Ted! Are you asking about the quick release levers in the middle of the print head? I am using those to release the pressure keeping the 2 plates together so I can make micro adjustments. I will then tighten the 2 plates together with those knobs to keep the screen from moving.
If that didn't answer the question please let us know!
Cool, that’s why I tell my employees not to talk when they are registering …pay attention to what your doing .
I have this press and mine will NOT hold registration for a 4 color job I’m doing. Every time I set it and go to do the test print, it shifts! Then it will hold and I load up the platens and by the time I go to print it all of my top colors have shifted!!
I have the 6/4 RH 250 with the green arms. I tried everything even resetting the micros. Based is choked .20 and top colors spread .003. WTF am I doing wrong to where the print head shifts out of registration on its own?!!
@johnl805 Sounds like a frustrating situation, but you’re definitely not alone-it’s happened to the best of us. If your print heads are shifting out of registration, here are a few things to check:
Tighten Print Head & Micro Locks: Double-check that all the knobs and micro-registration locks are fully tightened after adjustments. If any of them are slightly loose, even vibration from printing can cause the head to shift.
Check the Off-Contact & Pallet Level: If the off-contact is too high or uneven, it can cause the screen to "snap" back inconsistently, shifting the print head. Make sure your pallets are level and your off-contact is consistent across all stations.
Inspect the Print Arm Bolts: Since you have the RH 250 with the green arms, check the bolts that hold the print arms to the press. If they’re even a little loose, it can cause movement during printing.
Look at Your Choke/Spread Settings: It sounds like you’re dialed in on the artwork, but if the print shifts even a hair, that .003 spread might not be enough cushion. Sometimes adding a bit more choke on the base can help mask small shifts.
If you’ve already tried these steps and it's still moving, reach out to our support to see if they can help troubleshoot: 1-360-576-7188 or www.screenprinting.com/pages/contact-customer-success or chat with our team online Monday - Friday, 6 AM to 5 PM Pacific
wassup Ryonet,! cool video. What can i use instead of the supreme wash to clean my screen if we talking about house hold items?
Its hard to find something in the house that will replace stencil remover or haze remover but we used to use washing powder as a degreaser for years, not ideal but it cleans the screen reasonably well. Hope this helps
Are we trying to clean plastisol or Water Base? If its plastisol, you need a solvent type cleaner. If waterbase, you can try a tiny tiny bit of dish soap and plain water.
Hi can we add pigment color in white plastisol ink to make new colors? what are the pros and cons
Typically it is not recommended as white inks are maxed out (or are very close) for pigment load. However, your white ink may be different and I recommend talking with your ink manufacturer.
how big of s a smidgeon do you go down to account for the squeegee pull? certain amount of cm/in? Wasn't very specific on that.
Hey, good morning Tom! Colin's point was for the printer to recognize that screens move when they pull the squeegee and to compensate for that slight flex and movement. There's no exact rule here because every printer uses different amounts of force, off contact, etc...
I have practiced what he's referring to at times and I use just a hair line of difference. I would find what works best for you.
Happy printing!
what do you do to cover the registration marks after the test shirt so they dont show up on production shirts?
Tape
for my micro's, the threads :knobs: are very dificult to move and twist them... am i missing something?
Hi @cornaynay ! with out knowing exactly what press you have it may be a little difficult to diagnose over YT, but i would be happy to help. LMK what press you are using. Also, if it's easier for you, you can email me directly at jwells@ryonet.com or call 3605767188.
I'm having issues adjusting my tilt,,I'm nowhere near close of a 1 1/6 of an inch i have followed the manual instructions and no success,,its like the rod from the knob always coming off the female rod end!
I've got to be doing something wrong, or missing the point of something. It takes me HOURS to up my 250, and I'm still getting pretty poor prints. I don't understand why the tilt if there's the nuts on the back of the screen, and then why I end up a mile off once I tighten everything.
HI Eric! I am the guy in the video - did you go through and set everything up like I did in the beginning? I also talk about registering a 3 color design in the Riley 150 video. That one may cover some nuances that are missed in this video - link below:
th-cam.com/video/6Av0yYEQsIw/w-d-xo.html
In that video I am almost in perfect registration. If I can register with the 150, I know you can do it on the 250. Start back at square one and follow the walkthrough I do in the beginning to set everything up. If things are still not working, we do have some awesome team members that may be able to help you out through video chat. Hope things get better soon!
Love the press but you guys are so late on this already figured it all out after searching down the internet trying to find video on how to used the registration ...but hey better late then never......also I really think your camera men could do some BETTER close up shots showing the movement/adjustments your camera angles are not good.....anyway I still give you guys a 👍because you finally make a video on this and hey you guys are Ryanet so yeah 👍
I have used a Riley 300 for years and loved it. Got a 250 last year and absolutely hate it in comparison to the 300. The micros, off contact and tilt and are all a hundred times more difficult to use. Spend so much more time setting up a multi color print. Things that take seconds on the 300 will take 20 minutes on the 250. If you want an efficient press save your money and by a 300. 250 just makes me frustrated. Not good for a business. Can be fine for a hobby printer. Customer support is very helpful but the 250 is just inferior. You get what you pay for! Not knocking Riley as a brand. Good people and good customer service.