I did this build a few years ago. It's a great kit. I remember the decals on R2 and Luke's helmet were IMPOSSIBLY small, but very accurate. Bandai is the best.
@@billsfilmsinc I built the AT-ST last year. Fun kit. Super easy and detailed. My kids love the Chewy on top. I wish they would do vintage automobile kits. I can't stand dealing with clunky AMT kits after being spoiled by Bandai.
That’s because C-3PO and R2-D2 are the main characters since they appear in every movie even the sequels where there is no Darth Vader and that is why they don’t have Luke’s X-Wing because everyone only cares about the main characters. *SAMSUNG PHONE RING TONE*
@@juanleon3875 Eheh! Good one. As a side note, I have met both Kenny Baker and Anthony Daniels at sci-fi conventions, not both at the same one, but I was (at that time) stupid enough to not get a photo with them, nor any autographs. I could easily have, but I just didn't, stupid me. I do however have my LoTR DVD Collectors box signed by a number of the actors in that trilogy, as well as a Dwarven Battle Axe replica signed by John Rhys-Davies/Gimli. He is coming to another convention I'm planning to go to in the end of April. I am thinking of picking up one more autograph on another LoTR item as well. It's mostly for my own sentimental reasons, not as some kind of investment to sell in the future. The day I pass on my son will inherit the items. I have met him twice already. He is really nice and takes his time with fans and talk to you and tell stories from his life. He spent a long time talking to my son as well. A really sweet guy. Alwasy fun when he turns up at conventions. :) My son took a photo with the original Boba Fett actor, Jeremy Bulloch. That's his favourite character from Star Wars, well at least it was until Disney ruined him and turned him into a joke in the Boba Fett series. Jeremy Bulloch was also a really nice guy.
I’m watching this cause I am about to plan my build and I like the shipping that you did. I’ve used a salt technique that I like, but I may try to find some liquid masking. With 1/72 I have a bunch of LEDs but semi-afraid to, put them in at that scale lol. I’ve done Gundam but mega size and MG only. My eyes are gonna hurt from squinting I feel like when I get going. But seeing this, it does look bigger than I thought.
I’ve seen some channels build first and paint after, while others paint pieces as they go along and assemble it fully towards the end. Which is better for a beginner?
It really just depends on how the model goes together. Sometimes it's easier to paint the sub-assemblies before you glue it all together, and other times it's easier to just paint the whole thing once it's all assembled. So it really just depends on the model.
So what is used to seal all the paint up after you finish? I'm about to start getting back into building here after a near 20 year break, and would love to know what all has changed since my last build.
Fair enough, I am too. Though at that scale, the figure need not be that well done, most of it can't really be seen...burgundy helmet with the "mohawk" in white, hey, look, it IS John D. (Good enough for government work, anyway)
I usually unmask right after I clean my airbrush, so maybe 3-4 minutes? That big chunk that came off at 8:07 was the latex masking. I used Winsor & Newton stuff on all the red, but the chips were too blobby, so I switch to my AMMO MIG masking fluid for the rest of the model. It helped produce finer chips.
Sadly, I can't remember the ratio, sorry. I just eye-balled it and got it slightly too white. Needed a few more drops of actual yellow in there. Good luck on yours!
i thought this is a snap together kit? what with all the glue stuff? im thinking of building this but i dont know anything about using those glues. thx
No, I used NATO Black for the grimy engine parts. For the mist coat I used the base color mixture, which was a combo of white and light gray, thinned down a LOT.
@@billsfilmsincHi, I'm beginning to do my Red 5 soon. One more question. At what stage did you apply the mist coat with the base grey colour? Is it after you have painted the grimy engine parts?
@@fangchern691 I do the mist coat after all the initial colors are down, but before the general weathering (with the tamiya smoke color). Just thin down the base color a lot and be very conservative with how much goes on. Less is generally more. And good luck with your build!
@@Icy-zk9rh I use the glue at most plastic joints, where two parts come together. These Bandai kits are designed to snap together so they don't technically need glue, but I like to use it anyway.
New to airbrushing... when you say XF-2: 8 XF-80: 3, does that mean drops of paint? So 8 drops of XF-2 and 3 drops of XF-80? And I did read down in the comments that you thinned it a lot, correct? Great job on the build! Hope mine looks even close to it...
Yes, that is correct. If you add more paint, just keep it at an 8:3 ratio, and you should end up with similar results. For the mist coat at the end (to knock the colors down a bit), thin that mixture about 10:1 with thinner and build the paint up slowly.
Here's me hoping bandai reach out to military plamo, the industry is stagnating and we need bandai to shake things up so other company increase their product quality.
There are lots of companies that are disrupting the market currently. Sadly, I think Bandai is all but done with the Sci-fi (Star Wars) line. All I really wanted from them was a 1/48 Y-Wing....
Yes, it comes down to the nature of it being a snap-together kit. As you can see, the kit is molded in color, so there are larger panel lines where two colors meet than there would be otherwise. I wish Bandai would come out with an X-Wing whose fuselage was one large piece, like the old Fine Molds kit was.
I really enjoyed watching this. The build looks beautiful. Nice work!
I did this build a few years ago. It's a great kit. I remember the decals on R2 and Luke's helmet were IMPOSSIBLY small, but very accurate. Bandai is the best.
Bandai really is the best, aren't they?
@@billsfilmsinc I built the AT-ST last year. Fun kit. Super easy and detailed. My kids love the Chewy on top. I wish they would do vintage automobile kits. I can't stand dealing with clunky AMT kits after being spoiled by Bandai.
Nice to see Red 4 being built and not always Luke's Red 5. 😎
Yes it's nice to do something different!
yes I was about mention the four stripes on the wing
That’s because C-3PO and R2-D2 are the main characters since they appear in every movie even the sequels where there is no Darth Vader and that is why they don’t have Luke’s X-Wing because everyone only cares about the main characters. *SAMSUNG PHONE RING TONE*
@@juanleon3875 Eheh! Good one.
As a side note, I have met both Kenny Baker and Anthony Daniels at sci-fi conventions, not both at the same one, but I was (at that time) stupid enough to not get a photo with them, nor any autographs. I could easily have, but I just didn't, stupid me. I do however have my LoTR DVD Collectors box signed by a number of the actors in that trilogy, as well as a Dwarven Battle Axe replica signed by John Rhys-Davies/Gimli. He is coming to another convention I'm planning to go to in the end of April. I am thinking of picking up one more autograph on another LoTR item as well. It's mostly for my own sentimental reasons, not as some kind of investment to sell in the future. The day I pass on my son will inherit the items.
I have met him twice already. He is really nice and takes his time with fans and talk to you and tell stories from his life. He spent a long time talking to my son as well. A really sweet guy. Alwasy fun when he turns up at conventions. :)
My son took a photo with the original Boba Fett actor, Jeremy Bulloch. That's his favourite character from Star Wars, well at least it was until Disney ruined him and turned him into a joke in the Boba Fett series. Jeremy Bulloch was also a really nice guy.
@@felixtyler910 I always prefer Red-2 (Wedge)
Great work with the smoke and oil stains, and I love the custom R-4 head!
Thank you! I almost just used the standard R2 but thought it'd be nice to have the right droid back there.
That is a great looking build.
Thanks!
It looks AMAZING!
Thanks!
thaks for share, congratulations, really a nice video!!! best wishes form Peru!!!!
Nicely done! Very tasteful on the weathering.
Thank you! Weathering is always an exercise in restraint. Sometimes just a bit more can make it look way overdone.
Awesome build,😁👍🏾
Fantastic… thanks…I have that kit and have some ideas from watching your presentation.
It's a wonderful model. I have many more in the stash waiting to be built!
The force is strong in this one.
Appreciate it!
Wow!.. very nice..may the The Force be with you young Skywalker! 👍
Thanks!
Cool weathering
Thanks! It's always a tricky balance to not over-do it, especially at this small scale.
Great job 👍
Thanks for watching!
Well done. It looks very used and like it has seen a lot of action in a harsh environment.
Thanks for watching!
I’m watching this cause I am about to plan my build and I like the shipping that you did. I’ve used a salt technique that I like, but I may try to find some liquid masking. With 1/72 I have a bunch of LEDs but semi-afraid to, put them in at that scale lol. I’ve done Gundam but mega size and MG only. My eyes are gonna hurt from squinting I feel like when I get going. But seeing this, it does look bigger than I thought.
Yes these models are small, but with the right paint it can look huge! I am going to try lighting my next 1/72 build as well!
So mnay useful tools that I didn't know. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Wonderful looking model build; the ILM crew would be impressed..
What are the music track names used in this video, please?
Thank you! The music tracks are from Artlist, but sadly can't remember the names. I believe they're in another comment somewhere on here?
I’ve seen some channels build first and paint after, while others paint pieces as they go along and assemble it fully towards the end. Which is better for a beginner?
It really just depends on how the model goes together. Sometimes it's easier to paint the sub-assemblies before you glue it all together, and other times it's easier to just paint the whole thing once it's all assembled. So it really just depends on the model.
Hi, great job!, Can you please put the complete list of pait codes used in your video ?
Hello! I list many of the paints used throughout the video. Just basic Tamiya colors mixed until it looks right!
Thanks, great video
Glad you liked it!
So what is used to seal all the paint up after you finish? I'm about to start getting back into building here after a near 20 year break, and would love to know what all has changed since my last build.
I use a flat clear coat from Mr Hobby (found at Hobby Lobby) in a spray can.
Amazing work, fantastic attention to detail. But why go to all that effort (even to printing a custom R4) and then leave the pilot out?
Because I'm crap at painting figures! 😅
Fair enough, I am too. Though at that scale, the figure need not be that well done, most of it can't really be seen...burgundy helmet with the "mohawk" in white, hey, look, it IS John D. (Good enough for government work, anyway)
Great job as usual :)
Just bough the badger refeer white for the base, any exp with that?
Thanks! And no, I haven't used Reefer White, but I hear it works well!
Good video
How long did it take to build it ?
Took a week or two between all the paint and washes drying. It's a pretty simple build and you could do it in a day if you hurried.
Do you remember how long you waited for the red to dry before pulling off the tamiya tape at 8:07?
I usually unmask right after I clean my airbrush, so maybe 3-4 minutes? That big chunk that came off at 8:07 was the latex masking. I used Winsor & Newton stuff on all the red, but the chips were too blobby, so I switch to my AMMO MIG masking fluid for the rest of the model. It helped produce finer chips.
@@billsfilmsinc Thank you for the reply
What was mix ratio for yellowish color on fuselage? Great work, can't wait to get started. Thanks
Sadly, I can't remember the ratio, sorry. I just eye-balled it and got it slightly too white. Needed a few more drops of actual yellow in there. Good luck on yours!
Quick question, did you prime it before you started airbrushing?
Nope, no primer on this one. I'm hesitant to use primer because too many layer of paint could obscure details on small models like this one.
Wow
i thought this is a snap together kit? what with all the glue stuff? im thinking of building this but i dont know anything about using those glues. thx
It is a snap together kit! It goes together perfectly without glue. I just used glue for OCD reasons.
@@billsfilmsinc thanks was hoping that was it. I really don’t want to deal with glue or painting
I personally like these over the lego builds and its good to see them on youtube. Got my boss one and now he has a back log .
Sorry to be off topic but what is the background music. I love it. Reminds me of Depeche Mode's Waiting for the Night.
I sourced the music from Artlist.io. Can't remember the track names off the top of my head, sorry!
Hi, just to confirm you used Tamiya XF-69 Nato black for the mist coat?
No, I used NATO Black for the grimy engine parts. For the mist coat I used the base color mixture, which was a combo of white and light gray, thinned down a LOT.
@@billsfilmsinc Thank you for the tips!
@@billsfilmsincHi, I'm beginning to do my Red 5 soon. One more question. At what stage did you apply the mist coat with the base grey colour? Is it after you have painted the grimy engine parts?
@@fangchern691 I do the mist coat after all the initial colors are down, but before the general weathering (with the tamiya smoke color). Just thin down the base color a lot and be very conservative with how much goes on. Less is generally more. And good luck with your build!
@@billsfilmsinc Thank you so much again
Is that the tamiya extra thin cement your using to glue parts
It sure is. Best glue I've ever used for models!
@@billsfilmsinc Thanks I'm gonna order some 👍
What type of glue are you using?
It's called Tamiya Extra Thin cement. Great great stuff.
Ok, thanks! Also thanks to you I was able to start modeling and painting and your video is so satisfying!
So when do I use the glue?
@@Icy-zk9rh I use the glue at most plastic joints, where two parts come together. These Bandai kits are designed to snap together so they don't technically need glue, but I like to use it anyway.
@@Icy-zk9rh That's great to hear! I hope you enjoy the hobby!
A smothered kit ...
New to airbrushing... when you say XF-2: 8 XF-80: 3, does that mean drops of paint? So 8 drops of XF-2 and 3 drops of XF-80? And I did read down in the comments that you thinned it a lot, correct? Great job on the build! Hope mine looks even close to it...
Yes, that is correct. If you add more paint, just keep it at an 8:3 ratio, and you should end up with similar results. For the mist coat at the end (to knock the colors down a bit), thin that mixture about 10:1 with thinner and build the paint up slowly.
Here's me hoping bandai reach out to military plamo, the industry is stagnating and we need bandai to shake things up so other company increase their product quality.
There are lots of companies that are disrupting the market currently. Sadly, I think Bandai is all but done with the Sci-fi (Star Wars) line. All I really wanted from them was a 1/48 Y-Wing....
The detail on that BANDAI kit is far superior to the larger MPC kit.
Agreed. Bandai is the standard for SW kits now.
Holy crap, those panel lines are big.
Yes, it comes down to the nature of it being a snap-together kit. As you can see, the kit is molded in color, so there are larger panel lines where two colors meet than there would be otherwise. I wish Bandai would come out with an X-Wing whose fuselage was one large piece, like the old Fine Molds kit was.
Great job!
Thanks!
Great job 👍
Thank you!