I'll be building my van in 5 years, but taking all the advice and help I can. Just watched the first video, and we'll keep watching your build. Thank you for posting.
Chuck Cassidy does bus builds but he is knowledgeable in insulation. You will find that foam will most likely be better for floors because it is super strong and you can just cut it out without anything else. To make a point he parked a bus in top of the foam boards and it didn’t do anything. Also people have been using foam for everything it seams they are calling them foamies. They even built foam camper trailers entirely out of foam,
Thank you so much for posting this in such detail. I am a complete beginner and you made everything very clear and easy to understand! I hope you keep posting throughout the rest of the build. Excited to see what you create:)
Thanks for the kind words. It makes the extra time it takes worthwhile 😊. We have a few videos coming out soon...stay tuned!! Best of luck with your build!
This is very informative. I wish I had watched before fitting my subfloor! I learnt lots of what you show through trial and error but have a good subfloor now. on to next step.
Watching your vids from Sacramento California : ) currently building 2016 Ford Transit high roof and this vid is good example for me to use to build my van to travel California and other amazing states and parks
Oh my Gosh! You guys are so thorough! I am so grateful! I am going to convert a transit van to live and travel in for 3 years. Thank you for all of this! You are breaking everything down so well. Thanks.
i think I will use hard foam instead of wool on the floor. The foam can support more pressure, so I just need small stand-off at each screw. This will allow me to eliminate all the wood ribs (wood has lower R value).
Super nice job! I agree as well, floor first. Alt to hardboard question, i would run a straight edge from center to each side rib to see where it breaks and mark floor at that point insuring flat floor.
Sick...you are really enjoying this setup...thanks for the ideas interspersed/suggested throughout the build...not to predict how things will turn out but...looking good so far...
Thank you! Very calming energy - I enjoyed watching you both. I rarely see people doing the waterproofing and mold prevention, which I plan on doing as well, so it was great to see others doing it too. I start my build in a week! ( :
Thanks Cat! We're glad you enjoyed the video 🙂 While waterproofing and mold prevention takes a bit more work and time, we thought it was well worth it. We'd rather spend a couple more days doing preventive work rather than tearing up the floor at a later date because of mold, etc...! Good luck with your build!
thanks for sharing, this is really well done and helpful..... I'm subscribed, looking forward to more of your content. I'm really picky about what I watch, I'm a perfectionist, and this is it, right here.... love the choice of B roll music also, great taste! Take care!
Definitely watching this after having my fan as the first big project ... DEFINITELY wish I had started with subfloor! Completely agree with your points at the end of the video. I can't wait to keep following along! I'd love to hear if you've had any issue with moisture getting under the subfloor - did you seal it off?
I really appreciate how thorough you two are on your process. This is so useful for me as I'm about to embark on a van build project and feel overwhelmed by what steps to take first. Your organized and very detailed approach and how calming you are makes this project seem very approachable/achievable. Thanks for also including helpful tips to problems I might run into like how to cut the subfloor without splintering the wood. And thank you for including the products you used to be as environmentally conscientious and as non-toxic as possible.
Thanks Deidre! Congratulations on starting your van build. It does get overwhelming-we try to look at each individual step rather than the project as a whole to help with the overwhelm 🙂Really happy to hear that this is helpful to you. Best of luck!
Hope you're still checking these comments as this was several years ago! Thanks for the videos, very helpful. Did you have to use spacers for the factory hardware or were the bolts long enough to span the height of your built up floor? Thanks.
@@wanderlibre4434 Duh...as soon as I sent that, I realized it was a dumb question! Sorry about that! At any rate...did you end up using the anchor points later in your build? I'm thinking about just getting rid of the hardware when I put my floor in. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this!! I’ve felt so overwhelmed about my build and this is so helpful. Question - did you just add the tie downs back on at the end? Or what did you do to secure it all? Thank you!
Hi, so happy this is helpful to you! Not sure if you were able to get to the latter part of the video yet, but to secure the floor, we screwed it down to the furring strips and then we added bolts to the tie down anchor points (we didn't use the actual tie downs.) Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Thanks for the video, it gives some good perspectives and ideas. Can you elaborate on why you think that errant metal filings could be a valid concern or reason for worry? Rust is not contagious, it is a product of a localized surface oxidation reaction. Having some rusty shavings nearby shouldn't directly impact anything else.
We released our subfloor videos on the same day. My garage is full of boxes too. I used stainless steel sheet metal screws on some of the floor but I love your idea of not putting any holes. I also kept my tie-down bolts. Getting the holes for those in the right place wasn't easy.
Cool, we'll check out your video. Those tie-down bolts were a pain, but glad we put the time into keeping them. I know they'll come in handy down the road.
After you have your initial template, cut out an exact dublicate in butchers paper or something similar. Then lay it out in the van and use touch and an exact knife for the holes. Take that back and trace onto subfloor and cut them out. You could have used cardboard for the templates.
Good stuff, thanks! We're currently researching the floor options for our upcoming build and really like this approach. We're in Truckee as well (Sierra Meadows) and will be sure to wave if we see your van driving around town!
You're welcome! Glad to hear that it's helpful to you. We left Truckee in November though - hard for us to build outside in the snow :) Good luck on your build!
Great videos. Have you thought to test what happens with body flex? You could jack up each wheel to simulate potential flex going down un-level roadways. What would be missing though is fully loaded van.
Well thought out approach and nicely done video. It's a good thought that water might eventually get under the floor. I wonder if it would have been better to have sections of furring strips with air gaps between instead of running the strip all the way across. That way, you would have a more contiguous airspace for moisture to move out. I'm enjoying your build and find it inspiring.
Hey guys! Excellent video, very helpful for my build I'm starting now! Not sure if I missed it in the video, but did you do any additional flooring on top of the sub floor? Like wood planks or vinyl? Also, are there any non-toxic or natural glues that you would recommend?
We put down lonseal flooring. Unfortunately I couldn't find non toxic glue, but lonseal makes a strong double sided tape which I believe is much less toxic than glue
Nice video! Did you consider Killmat under the floor in addition to the walls? If you did it again, which way would you go? FWIW, I found that you can use the Killmat as a bridge between the ribs and walls to really knock down "ping"
Thanks! We considered adding Kilmat, but decided against it. The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there. If we did it again, we'd do the same thing. Thanks for the tip on the Kilmat "bridge"!
@@wanderlibre4434 Good to know...that stuff's not cheap, and you make a good point about the weight. I may place closed foam across the whole thing, and let it compress on the high points...I think that'll be close to the 80mil Kilmat once compressed anyway.
Thanks! There may have been a difference in the spacing vs wool bats. I can't remember exactly. But, we didn't base the furring strip placement on the width of the wool bats, we based it on research we did to ensure we had good support for the subfloor.
Hi there, great work! Question for you. Did you only use one gallon each of the Caliwel and Vermont Natural Coating? We are looking to be as environmentally friendly as well.
Hi. Yes, one gallon was enough of both the Caliwel and Vermont Natural Coating. We had quite a bit if VNC left, and used most of the Caliwel. But it was enough!
Glad I found your channel, we are working on parallel projects on nearly the same van. I was going down the path of the flooring suggestions from FarOutRide but I need to get water lines across the middle of the van (sink and shower on opposite walls). I think the furring strips running width-wise with insulation like you've done is just the ticket, thanks!
We're glad you found our channel as well! That's one of the benefits of using furring strips - you can run water lines in the space, as you mentioned. Good luck with your build. Keep us posted on how it's going. Would love to see photos!
@@wanderlibre4434 quick follow-up question. Have you driven the Sprinter a fair amount with the new subfloor installed and have you noticed any new squeaking or other noises? I'm considering a layer of poly-flex material like Silkflex between the furring strips and birch subfloor but not sure its necessary in addition to all the screws. Thanks!
@@thomassmith2704 We've driven quite a lot since we installed the subfloor (guessing 4k miles). For the first few days after installation, we had a very minor creaking in one very specific spot (at the corner of a seam between two of the birch boards). That said, it went away after a few days and has been quiet since.
Do i water proof all sides of the furring strips? I was thinking that adhesive to keep them down would need to be in contact with the wood... but maybe thats over thinking :D
Hi Guys ! This is the first floor on the U Tube conversions where you have gone across the floor with the narrow timbers most have gone and timbered length ways also for the small extra cost why not use pressure treated timbers , for the lash down bolts location maybe a round hole cutter instead of a hit and miss jigsaw cut , Long term I think my joint in the plywood would be under the bed at the back of the van yet you have made a joint in a main tread area near the side door. With ref to the hardboard its a good secondary check before you cut the expencive birch ply , so this depends on skill levels very much , Take it slow do it correct the first time then you will never need to go back in the future because you rushed a job , I am liking you style of work Guys .
Hi, We opted for the FSC certified birch instead of pressure treated lumber as we wanted to keep the chemicals used in pressure treated lumber out of our living space. On the floor furring strips, you could easily mount them either way. We found it easier to mount across, partly because several of the floor ribs running front to back don't run the entire length of the floor. We also wanted to preserve some space under the floor to potentially run wiring conduit and for that we wanted to run the wires across rather than front to back. Regarding floor joints, we have 3. All run across and are fully supported by a furring strip that bridges the joint underneath. Totally, agree on the hardboard. As newbie's we found it helpful. If you have the skills and are comfortable it's not necessary. On the tie down holes, I might be misunderstanding your comment.... we drilled our holes. Didn't use a jigsaw. A hole cutter would work. We chose a drill bit as we wanted the holes to be as close to the tie down bolt size as possible.
Did it ever occur to someone they could sell proper Subfloor Templates. I wonder if you could sell a digital copy where the buyer could take it to a printer and get them to print it out? Curious...how much time was "spent" laying out and finalizing your templates?
We actually kept our template because it takes quite a bit of time to create. I don't remember exactly how long it took. The paper template was probably a day, then to cut the hardboard, test, and tweak took considerably longer.
After you have your initial template, cut out an exact dublicate in butchers paper or something similar. Then lay it out in the van and use touch and an exacto knife for the holes. Take that back and trace onto subfloor and cut them out. You could have used cardboard for the templates.
Thanks. We initially tried your idea for the factory holes, but it didn't work and still required a lot of fiddling. Did that work for you on the first try?
@@wanderlibre4434 yes. We had already had the boards cut and fit then cut the paper to fit off those. Then laid the paper. We felt the holes and exactoed the paper in place. Then went and laid the paper on the boards, traced and cut.
You're welcome! We used Kilmat on the walls, but we feel it's not necessary on the floor because it's ribbed, so there's a lot of rigidity to it. We used it where you get more vibrations.
Did you sand down your furring strips before varnishing them? Ours are pretty beat up but since they won't be visible were trying to decide if it's necessary to sand them. Thanks! Your videos are awesome! Helping us so much to convert our Ford E250
So stoked!!!! This was great. Perpetual novice is my attitude for life. Thanks for making this wonderful video. Just about ready to sell my truck and get a van 🥳 can’t wait to see all your vids
Thanks for your kind words! We can tell a difference. After installing the sound deadening, the van immediately felt / sounded more solid without as much of the 'tinniness.'. After installing the subfloor, we both noted that the van seemed a little quieter. That said, at highway speeds, we're still getting more road noise than we'd like as our van is still basically an empty box. I suspect the road noise will be cut significantly when we install Havelock Wool in the doors, walls, and ceiling and add the wall panels. More to come.....
Thanks! We considered adding Kilmat to the floor, but decided against it. The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there. If we did it again, we'd do the same thing.
Great video and advice! I appreciate the logical approach you have taken. I was wondering now that you have used it a bit, have you found the spacing of the furring strips to be adequate to support you and your equipment adequately without too much flex and separation at the seams? Did you double up the strips at the plywood seams so each sheet could have its own anchor strip? Any other tips on where you decided to locate the furring strips? Thanks again for the help! :-)
Hi Scott! So far, so good. Feels solid, including at the joints between the plywood sheets. We positioned a furring strip at each joint, which provides about 3/4" of support on each side of the joint (total furring strip width is 1.5"). No flex when walking around etc. or joint separation. If memory serves me, I think 1/2" plywood needs support at least every 16" on center. We're still building the van so more weight will be added as we install cabinets, batteries, and water, etc. In the meantime we've loaded the van pretty heavily for 2 long road trips and when the van was pretty full inside, I still didn't notice any flex. If concerned, you can always reduce the furring strip spacing further if you're at all uncomfortable or add an additional furring strip under the highest load areas or (as you noted) at the seam to provide further support for both boards. The downside to this is obviously added weight.
I've noticed that most builders install the furring strips the long way in between the grooves of the van floor. You are the first to install them perpendicular to the grooves. Is there a reason why you installed the furring strips this way
@@wanderlibre4434 I just stumbled onto your videos tonight. I have a van I am building out as a hobby, and at this point in my build. I actually spoke to soon, as now is see you used tempered hardboard. both work well, and can be re-used for future templating in the build. Truckee brings back memories for me, spent a couple seasons snowboarding there circa 89 90, house on the river. Hope you get some snow sometime soon!
@@TheMomentEnds1 No worries 🙂I thought it seemed too hard to use a razor knife, but I was just about to go out to the garage to give it a try out of curiosity. Truckee's a great town! Have fun with your build.
Hi there, question for you. We applied 2 coats of the Vermont Coating to the strips and 3 sheets of plywood, and are almost through the gallon. Does that sound about right? We we wondering what roller you used to apply this and if that could make a difference. Also, are you planning on using the Vermont Coatings and Caliwell on the walls, cabinets, and other woodwork?
We used a paint brush for the strips and a roller (not sure what kind?) for the plywood. I'm not at my house right now, so can't check how much we had left, but I think we used about 3/4 gallon. We cut the wood before applying the Vermont coating and the mold and mildew. If you applied it prior to coating the wood, you would use more than we did.
We didn't consider aluminum for the furring strips, so there was really no decision making process for using wood vs aluminum 🙂 We're happy with the wood furring strips though (and they're a lot cheaper than using aluminum)
Im not them, but I can tell you 1 bag is 200 sq ft. Havlock says a promaster 159 (which is what I have) is 375 sq ft. I was going to use the stiff foam that most use, but I am leaning this way now...
I think a better way to get the template is to get a long sheet (or sheets put together) of stiff material, that are slightly wider than the largest dimension between nearest and farthest wall edges. Please this along the wall edge parallel with the long axis of the van. The take an length of stick T shaped with a hole in the middle of the T, for a sharpie. The idea is to move the stick, with sharpie facing down, so that the top of the T follows the inner edge of the sheet to the T is maintaining perpendicular orientation to the wall, while the bottom end of the T follows the wall contour. The sharpie draws an outline of the wall on the sheet as the T stick is moved down. Repeat for the other side. Cut out the drawn lines, place the left and right templates in place and measure the distance between the two for the filling distance to complete the template.
Interesting idea. There's definitely more than one way to skin a cat 😉Always open to new suggestions. If you've done it this way, we'd love to see some photos to get a better idea of what you're talking about!
@@wanderlibre4434the technique is a carpenters scribing technique. For small distances, they use a compass device, but for the longer distances involved in a van, the T stick does the job. I didn't mean to belittle your efforts, just give others an easier option. Googling "how to scribe" will give videos of the technique on small scale.
Lots of benefits to using birch plywood but in our case we specifically chose Columbia Forest Birch Plywood because we wanted a quality plywood that's dimensionally stable (not prone to expansion / contraction with weather changes), that's FSC certified and not manufactured using formaldehyde.
You can easily mount the furring strips either way. We found it easier to mount across, partly because several of the floor ribs running front to back don't run the entire length of the floor. We also wanted to preserve some space under the floor to potentially run wiring conduit and for that we wanted to run the wires across rather than front to back.
This was an amazing video, very organised, it constantly grabbed my attention, and it broke down every step making it easy. If you would not have made out that you were beginners you could have come off as pros.
@@wanderlibre4434 Have you had any issues with your floor buckling? I like the idea of not screwing the firring strips into the bed of the van. Can you tell me, did you put any screws through the subfloor and THROUGH the bed of the van anywhere? Or did you anchor the subfloor solely through the Marine adhesive on the firring strips, attaching the plywood to the firring strips with screws every 12 inches, and the built in anchors (where you removed the D rings) of the van? Was there anything I missed? If I'm correct, your installation method didn't require any new holes in the floor of the van! Is that correct? Thank you very much for anything further you can share.
@@sheri4673 That's correct! We didn't add any new holes to the floor of the van. The marine adhesive attaches the furring strips to the floor and the screws attach the plywood to the furring strips. So far so good; we haven't had any buckling. The floor feels really solid.
@@wanderlibre4434 THANK YOU SOOOOOOO much for replying! That's great news, I'm using your method. Can you please tell me, did you use the sheeps wool insulation in the walls of the van, I"m binge watching your videos hoping you show how you insulated the walls. What an excellent job you did on this videos, enormously helpful!
@@sheri4673 Thanks! Much appreciated 🙂 We'll be installing the wool insulation in the walls of the van soon. We''ll have a video for that - once the project is completed! Next video coming up this weekend is solar installation, if you're interested in installing solar.
@@wanderlibre4434 I bought the same wood as you for my subfloor. My only concern is that the "pure bond" in that plywood is soy based and so the glue is not waterproof. I heard that plywood can easily become warped from moisture/water.
As far as projects taking 2x longer than you expected, I think that you should consider how much time camera set ups and filming added to the project. Surely that was a considerable amt of time.
@@wanderlibre4434 just don't want you beating yourself up over time estimates!! Heck how many pro's complete a project on schedule. I think for beginners you two are doing an incredible job.
@@wanderlibre4434 yes!! I would love to be your on site cheerleader!!! But I'm afraid you guys will have your van finished by the time I find a local builder!!. Not too many people in Louisiana are interested.
It seems to me like a lot of work just to use wool batts. If moisture "does get in" then I feel no matter what system you use (closed off in this case) it will eventually fail! Very little heat is lost through the floor anyway. Something like 15%. Remember, hot air raisers. I would skip this messy bit. Use marine grade plywood (1/2" = r/0.62)on top of strips of D.P.C. & screw this down with s/s screws. I know drilling holes in the floor is not a good look (but can be painted underneath later) or just glue it down if concerned about the screwing. If cut properly it's not going to go anywhere in a hurry once all the cabinetry is fitted. If water then "does get in" it wont create any long term issues because it's able to "breathe". Good luck "out there"!
Vermont Natural Coatings said "We would not recommend using ANY product that contains any mold/mildewcide. This product is not designed to have anything else coated over the top of it. This product allows the wood to naturally grey/age, while also protecting it from water damage." What are your thoughts on this, would you still use the Caliwel on top of it?
@@TheAllSeeingAye that's interesting. They didn't tell me this when I inquired about using both. It's worked fine for us, but I would just go with their current advice.
Could you tell me how much havelock you used for the floors? I see they recommend 2 inches for walls but that is a bit much for the floor with height considerations.
Yes, 2 inches would be a bit much for the floor! We laid 1x2 furring strips (actual size is 3/4" high), so between that and the 1/4" ribs in the floor, it was about 1" in the floor. That (very) roughly equals 1/4 - 1/3 of a bag of Havelock wool in our 170 Sprinter. Hope this help. Let us know if you have any other questions.
@@wanderlibre4434 awesome thanks. Look forward to watching your videos! We are planning pretty much the exact layout as are plans mirror yours for what we want and need. Is yours the 170 ext?
@@wanderlibre4434 I was poking thru the comments when I saw your mention of 1/4" height of the ribs...was that a reasonably exact 1/4, or a rough number? It'd be nice to know if it was more or less than 1/4" before I pull seats, d rings, and floor!
Hey guys, one more question that has been nagging at me these last few days- Is it not important to have furring strips in place where our lower cabinets are going to be connecting to the floor? Or- are all of those cabinet anchor points going to be above the floor, on the sides?
Being organic, and containing a certain percentage of boric acid (I have no idea how toxic it is or not, but probably some type of toxic chemicals) - I wonder about wool vs thinsulate. Maybe indeed Thinsulate is better (and now neutral, no VOCs or things like boric acid and such). It's also inorganic, so mold shouldn't be able to infest it I'm guessing.
@@wanderlibre4434 Ah shoot! I don't know why I asked these questions in the first place, I've watched this video so many times that I know the answers by heart. Thanks for replying anyways Wander Libre!
So when the description says the 1 gallon bucket covers 250sqf do they mean it does have enough paint included in the 1 bucket to be enough for the recommended 2 coats or does that mean if you want to paint 250sqf that you would have to purchase 2 buckets?🤔
@@HajnalkaGyurgyovics I think the floor of our 170 Sprinter is 90 square feet, but I haven't done the math. We applied 2 coats on the top and bottom and had some left over.
The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there.
Good effort but I dont think this is the best and most efficient way. The best and easiest would be to just get 1.5” foam panels and lay them down with no wood framing. They are meant to be walked on and the wood framing reduces the insulation and allows temperature changes. Also 1.5” foam has an R value of 9.5 where 1.25” wool has maybe R 5
Fair point, which we considered. But we ruled it out as we've seen too much foam littering waterways and beaches around the world, so we didn't want to contribute to that environmental problem. There are obviously many ways to install the floor and this method worked well for our wants/needs.
Are the furring strips really necessary? Seems like a lot of weight for not much benefit. Some production tips: watch the audio levels, the music is bordering on too loud. Maybe change it up too sometimes. Watch out for vocal fry. Try not to talk while the power tools are running. Really like the format of giving a quick rundown of your research, and the "what you've learned/would do different" at the end.
Hi. Thanks for the tips; we're still trying to figure all this out 😜As for the furring strips, they were necessary for us in order to create space for the Havelock wool insulation. They aren't necessary for other types of insulation, but do offer space to run conduit, etc under the floor.
@@wanderlibre4434 However, running conduit or wiring along the valleys in the floor would have to be well thought out and installed after the ferring strips but before the wool insulation install, correct? Too late in your build to do that without disrupting the wool.
Thanks, appreciate the feedback 👍We've tried to address that in our latest window and solar videos. Would love to hear your thoughts on those if you have a moment!
Rocket surgery???? Too avoid splintering, I would have marked top and bottom, flipped it and cut from bottom side. Why glue them to van floor instead of free floating- with a bracket to secure? Instead of cutting square holes, I would have smeared ink or chocolate on the bolts and pressed wood against it- then drilled on the spots it made. Rent out your template. I would have just done cardboard.
There’s a lot of garbage on the net but I have to say you guys crushed it with the instructional.
What brand and type of fasteners did you use to secure the subfloor plywood to the furring strips?
I'll be building my van in 5 years, but taking all the advice and help I can. Just watched the first video, and we'll keep watching your build. Thank you for posting.
I'm starting mine TOMORROW. This was a huge help.
Chuck Cassidy does bus builds but he is knowledgeable in insulation. You will find that foam will most likely be better for floors because it is super strong and you can just cut it out without anything else. To make a point he parked a bus in top of the foam boards and it didn’t do anything.
Also people have been using foam for everything it seams they are calling them foamies. They even built foam camper trailers entirely out of foam,
You guys are teachers! Love ur channel!
Thank you so much for posting this in such detail. I am a complete beginner and you made everything very clear and easy to understand! I hope you keep posting throughout the rest of the build. Excited to see what you create:)
Thanks for the kind words. It makes the extra time it takes worthwhile 😊. We have a few videos coming out soon...stay tuned!! Best of luck with your build!
This is very informative. I wish I had watched before fitting my subfloor! I learnt lots of what you show through trial and error but have a good subfloor now. on to next step.
Watching your vids from Sacramento California : ) currently building 2016 Ford Transit high roof and this vid is good example for me to use to build my van to travel California and other amazing states and parks
Oh my Gosh! You guys are so thorough! I am so grateful! I am going to convert a transit van to live and travel in for 3 years. Thank you for all of this! You are breaking everything down so well. Thanks.
Thanks so much! Happy to hear this is helpful to you. Best of luck with your build. Keep us posted!
Thanks for thoroughly documenting the process. Keep it up, can't wait to see what's next!
You're welcome! Hope it helps. Cutting holes in the roof for fans is up next! 😳
Binge watching ALL of your informative videos. Waiting to see you add a motorcycle hitch to your van so you can take along a bike!!! 😁😁😁😁
Ha, we might start carrying motos inside the van!
i think I will use hard foam instead of wool on the floor. The foam can support more pressure, so I just need small stand-off at each screw. This will allow me to eliminate all the wood ribs (wood has lower R value).
Super nice job! I agree as well, floor first. Alt to hardboard question, i would run a straight edge from center to each side rib to see where it breaks and mark floor at that point insuring flat floor.
Thanks! And thanks for sharing your suggestion 🙂
For a couple rookie carpenters, you did a nice job!
Haha, thanks. It's been a great learning process 😊
Sick...you are really enjoying this setup...thanks for the ideas interspersed/suggested throughout the build...not to predict how things will turn out but...looking good so far...
By the way...its hard to watch you two planning, and working together so well. I have to show the wife this new way of thinking! Lol...
😂Thanks for the laugh. We've been working together like this on projects for a really long time, so I guess we're just used to it.
Just do what you’re told. LOL
Thank you! Very calming energy - I enjoyed watching you both. I rarely see people doing the waterproofing and mold prevention, which I plan on doing as well, so it was great to see others doing it too. I start my build in a week! ( :
Thanks Cat! We're glad you enjoyed the video 🙂 While waterproofing and mold prevention takes a bit more work and time, we thought it was well worth it. We'd rather spend a couple more days doing preventive work rather than tearing up the floor at a later date because of mold, etc...! Good luck with your build!
Great music… you guys had some late nights uh ? ;) 💃
thanks for sharing, this is really well done and helpful..... I'm subscribed, looking forward to more of your content. I'm really picky about what I watch, I'm a perfectionist, and this is it, right here.... love the choice of B roll music also, great taste! Take care!
That's great! Really glad to hear that it's helpful 😁
You two are fantastic!
Great build!
Thanks!
Great video! Thanks
Thanks!!
Definitely watching this after having my fan as the first big project ... DEFINITELY wish I had started with subfloor! Completely agree with your points at the end of the video. I can't wait to keep following along! I'd love to hear if you've had any issue with moisture getting under the subfloor - did you seal it off?
No problems with moisture under the subfloor. It's not sealed off.
I really appreciate how thorough you two are on your process. This is so useful for me as I'm about to embark on a van build project and feel overwhelmed by what steps to take first. Your organized and very detailed approach and how calming you are makes this project seem very approachable/achievable. Thanks for also including helpful tips to problems I might run into like how to cut the subfloor without splintering the wood. And thank you for including the products you used to be as environmentally conscientious and as non-toxic as possible.
Thanks Deidre! Congratulations on starting your van build. It does get overwhelming-we try to look at each individual step rather than the project as a whole to help with the overwhelm 🙂Really happy to hear that this is helpful to you. Best of luck!
Hope you're still checking these comments as this was several years ago! Thanks for the videos, very helpful. Did you have to use spacers for the factory hardware or were the bolts long enough to span the height of your built up floor? Thanks.
No, we didn't have to use spacers. We bought longer bolts.
@@wanderlibre4434 Duh...as soon as I sent that, I realized it was a dumb question! Sorry about that! At any rate...did you end up using the anchor points later in your build? I'm thinking about just getting rid of the hardware when I put my floor in. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this!! I’ve felt so overwhelmed about my build and this is so helpful. Question - did you just add the tie downs back on at the end? Or what did you do to secure it all? Thank you!
Hi, so happy this is helpful to you! Not sure if you were able to get to the latter part of the video yet, but to secure the floor, we screwed it down to the furring strips and then we added bolts to the tie down anchor points (we didn't use the actual tie downs.) Hope this helps. Let us know if you have any other questions!
This is fantastic. Thanks so much for sharing. Are you on the road now? I hope to see more videos from you!
Good job. A suggestion: A small tray and roller would have made quick work of the waterproofing stage.
Thanks for the video, it gives some good perspectives and ideas. Can you elaborate on why you think that errant metal filings could be a valid concern or reason for worry? Rust is not contagious, it is a product of a localized surface oxidation reaction. Having some rusty shavings nearby shouldn't directly impact anything else.
I’m hooked!!!
Perfeito, detalhista, bom para aprender. parabens, obrigado por compartilhar seus conhecimentos.
We released our subfloor videos on the same day. My garage is full of boxes too. I used stainless steel sheet metal screws on some of the floor but I love your idea of not putting any holes. I also kept my tie-down bolts. Getting the holes for those in the right place wasn't easy.
Cool, we'll check out your video. Those tie-down bolts were a pain, but glad we put the time into keeping them. I know they'll come in handy down the road.
After you have your initial template, cut out an exact dublicate in butchers paper or something similar. Then lay it out in the van and use touch and an exact knife for the holes. Take that back and trace onto subfloor and cut them out. You could have used cardboard for the templates.
@@susanscovill6817 Need English translation
@@GOLDVIOLINbowofdeath ?
Good stuff, thanks! We're currently researching the floor options for our upcoming build and really like this approach. We're in Truckee as well (Sierra Meadows) and will be sure to wave if we see your van driving around town!
You're welcome! Glad to hear that it's helpful to you. We left Truckee in November though - hard for us to build outside in the snow :) Good luck on your build!
very detailed, but question: what type of wood did you consider for the furring strips? Was it SPF?
Yes! We used SPF.
Great videos. Have you thought to test what happens with body flex? You could jack up each wheel to simulate potential flex going down un-level roadways. What would be missing though is fully loaded van.
Well thought out approach and nicely done video. It's a good thought that water might eventually get under the floor. I wonder if it would have been better to have sections of furring strips with air gaps between instead of running the strip all the way across. That way, you would have a more contiguous airspace for moisture to move out. I'm enjoying your build and find it inspiring.
Oh nevermind, I see that the ridges on the floor leave air gaps beneath the furring strips.
@@larssmith3915 Thanks for the comment. Yes, you’re correct. The air gap is important and as you mentioned, the ridges provide air gaps. 👍
Thank you for your video. Does your floor wiggle a little. My floor drops down on the outer edge an I can’t get it to level
No, it doesn't wiggle. It's really solid.
@@wanderlibre4434 thank you. Maybe it’ll change once I screw it down. My outer edges are causing it to be unleveled
Hey guys! Excellent video, very helpful for my build I'm starting now! Not sure if I missed it in the video, but did you do any additional flooring on top of the sub floor? Like wood planks or vinyl?
Also, are there any non-toxic or natural glues that you would recommend?
We put down lonseal flooring. Unfortunately I couldn't find non toxic glue, but lonseal makes a strong double sided tape which I believe is much less toxic than glue
Nice video! Did you consider Killmat under the floor in addition to the walls? If you did it again, which way would you go?
FWIW, I found that you can use the Killmat as a bridge between the ribs and walls to really knock down "ping"
Thanks! We considered adding Kilmat, but decided against it. The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there. If we did it again, we'd do the same thing. Thanks for the tip on the Kilmat "bridge"!
@@wanderlibre4434 Good to know...that stuff's not cheap, and you make a good point about the weight. I may place closed foam across the whole thing, and let it compress on the high points...I think that'll be close to the 80mil Kilmat once compressed anyway.
Great video! Can I ask…. Was the space between the furring strips different from the width of the wool bats? How come?
Thanks! There may have been a difference in the spacing vs wool bats. I can't remember exactly. But, we didn't base the furring strip placement on the width of the wool bats, we based it on research we did to ensure we had good support for the subfloor.
Great video!! So so helpful. Quick question, What are the dimensions of the furring strips you used?
Thanks! Our furring strips are 1x2. Good luck with your floor!
Hi there, great work! Question for you. Did you only use one gallon each of the Caliwel and Vermont Natural Coating? We are looking to be as environmentally friendly as well.
Hi. Yes, one gallon was enough of both the Caliwel and Vermont Natural Coating. We had quite a bit if VNC left, and used most of the Caliwel. But it was enough!
What order did you paint them? Does it matter? And how many coats each did you paint?
@@waywardescapes4384 we waterproofed first then applied the mold and mildew protection
Glad I found your channel, we are working on parallel projects on nearly the same van. I was going down the path of the flooring suggestions from FarOutRide but I need to get water lines across the middle of the van (sink and shower on opposite walls). I think the furring strips running width-wise with insulation like you've done is just the ticket, thanks!
We're glad you found our channel as well! That's one of the benefits of using furring strips - you can run water lines in the space, as you mentioned. Good luck with your build. Keep us posted on how it's going. Would love to see photos!
@@wanderlibre4434 quick follow-up question. Have you driven the Sprinter a fair amount with the new subfloor installed and have you noticed any new squeaking or other noises? I'm considering a layer of poly-flex material like Silkflex between the furring strips and birch subfloor but not sure its necessary in addition to all the screws. Thanks!
@@thomassmith2704 We've driven quite a lot since we installed the subfloor (guessing 4k miles). For the first few days after installation, we had a very minor creaking in one very specific spot (at the corner of a seam between two of the birch boards). That said, it went away after a few days and has been quiet since.
Do i water proof all sides of the furring strips? I was thinking that adhesive to keep them down would need to be in contact with the wood... but maybe thats over thinking :D
Hi Guys ! This is the first floor on the U Tube conversions where you have gone across the floor with the narrow timbers most have gone and timbered length ways also for the small extra cost why not use pressure treated timbers , for the lash down bolts location maybe a round hole cutter instead of a hit and miss jigsaw cut , Long term I think my joint in the plywood would be under the bed at the back of the van yet you have made a joint in a main tread area near the side door. With ref to the hardboard its a good secondary check before you cut the expencive birch ply , so this depends on skill levels very much , Take it slow do it correct the first time then you will never need to go back in the future because you rushed a job , I am liking you style of work Guys .
Hi, We opted for the FSC certified birch instead of pressure treated lumber as we wanted to keep the chemicals used in pressure treated lumber out of our living space. On the floor furring strips, you could easily mount them either way. We found it easier to mount across, partly because several of the floor ribs running front to back don't run the entire length of the floor. We also wanted to preserve some space under the floor to potentially run wiring conduit and for that we wanted to run the wires across rather than front to back. Regarding floor joints, we have 3. All run across and are fully supported by a furring strip that bridges the joint underneath. Totally, agree on the hardboard. As newbie's we found it helpful. If you have the skills and are comfortable it's not necessary. On the tie down holes, I might be misunderstanding your comment.... we drilled our holes. Didn't use a jigsaw. A hole cutter would work. We chose a drill bit as we wanted the holes to be as close to the tie down bolt size as possible.
Did it ever occur to someone they could sell proper Subfloor Templates. I wonder if you could sell a digital copy where the buyer could take it to a printer and get them to print it out? Curious...how much time was "spent" laying out and finalizing your templates?
We actually kept our template because it takes quite a bit of time to create. I don't remember exactly how long it took. The paper template was probably a day, then to cut the hardboard, test, and tweak took considerably longer.
After you have your initial template, cut out an exact dublicate in butchers paper or something similar. Then lay it out in the van and use touch and an exacto knife for the holes. Take that back and trace onto subfloor and cut them out. You could have used cardboard for the templates.
Thanks. We initially tried your idea for the factory holes, but it didn't work and still required a lot of fiddling. Did that work for you on the first try?
@@wanderlibre4434 yes. We had already had the boards cut and fit then cut the paper to fit off those. Then laid the paper. We felt the holes and exactoed the paper in place. Then went and laid the paper on the boards, traced and cut.
Thanks for the step by step video! Did you consider using Kilmat below the insulation or do you feel the wool was enough?
You're welcome! We used Kilmat on the walls, but we feel it's not necessary on the floor because it's ribbed, so there's a lot of rigidity to it. We used it where you get more vibrations.
@@wanderlibre4434 thanks for the tip!
Hi! Great video. I just had one question - did you leave the 1/8 inch border between the furring strips and the van wall, as well? Thanks!
Thanks! And yes to your question. Good luck with your floor!
Did you sand down your furring strips before varnishing them? Ours are pretty beat up but since they won't be visible were trying to decide if it's necessary to sand them. Thanks! Your videos are awesome! Helping us so much to convert our Ford E250
Thanks for the kind comment ☺️. No, we didn't sand the furring strips.
Thanks for sharing this video. How many SqFt did you used for your van?
Happy to answer your question! How many Sq ft of what exactly? Wool? Plywood?
@@wanderlibre4434 The wool
@@thebg7532 we used a little over 80 sq ft . That's for the floor only. We're using it for the walls and ceiling as well.
@@wanderlibre4434 Thank You
What type of Birch plywood did you use? The link didn’t work for me.
This is very detailed! We're installing our subfloor this week and we're using Havelock wool so this was extremely helpful! Thank you for posting!
Great! I hope it helps. Good luck installing the subfloor!
So stoked!!!! This was great. Perpetual novice is my attitude for life. Thanks for making this wonderful video. Just about ready to sell my truck and get a van 🥳 can’t wait to see all your vids
Thanks! Good luck with your build!
Great video !!! What size (lengh) screw did you use. Thanks.
I'm pretty sure we used 1" screws
Great Video...can you tell me if the van is quieter now with the subfloor and soundproofing sheets on the walls??
Thank you
Thanks for your kind words! We can tell a difference. After installing the sound deadening, the van immediately felt / sounded more solid without as much of the 'tinniness.'. After installing the subfloor, we both noted that the van seemed a little quieter. That said, at highway speeds, we're still getting more road noise than we'd like as our van is still basically an empty box. I suspect the road noise will be cut significantly when we install Havelock Wool in the doors, walls, and ceiling and add the wall panels. More to come.....
Great video!!! Could you tell please how much Waterproofing and Mold/Mildew Prevention did you use? Did you use it somewhere else? Thanks
Thanks so much! We used one gallon of each. Not sure yet if we'll use it in other places, but felt it was necessary on the floor.
Awesome build. How come you didn’t put Kilmat sound deadening stuff on the van metal floor?
Thanks! We considered adding Kilmat to the floor, but decided against it. The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there. If we did it again, we'd do the same thing.
Great video and advice! I appreciate the logical approach you have taken. I was wondering now that you have used it a bit, have you found the spacing of the furring strips to be adequate to support you and your equipment adequately without too much flex and separation at the seams? Did you double up the strips at the plywood seams so each sheet could have its own anchor strip? Any other tips on where you decided to locate the furring strips? Thanks again for the help! :-)
Hi Scott! So far, so good. Feels solid, including at the joints between the plywood sheets. We positioned a furring strip at each joint, which provides about 3/4" of support on each side of the joint (total furring strip width is 1.5"). No flex when walking around etc. or joint separation. If memory serves me, I think 1/2" plywood needs support at least every 16" on center. We're still building the van so more weight will be added as we install cabinets, batteries, and water, etc. In the meantime we've loaded the van pretty heavily for 2 long road trips and when the van was pretty full inside, I still didn't notice any flex. If concerned, you can always reduce the furring strip spacing further if you're at all uncomfortable or add an additional furring strip under the highest load areas or (as you noted) at the seam to provide further support for both boards. The downside to this is obviously added weight.
superlike
I've noticed that most builders install the furring strips the long way in between the grooves of the van floor. You are the first to install them perpendicular to the grooves. Is there a reason why you installed the furring strips this way
It allows air to pass thru the whole floor with no closed spaces... I think its brilliant and I will follow suit :)
13:29 1/8 Lauan Plywood is the 'hardboard' product mentioned. Can be scribed with a razor knife, snapped, easy to work with.
Thanks! Good to know!
@@wanderlibre4434 I just stumbled onto your videos tonight. I have a van I am building out as a hobby, and at this point in my build. I actually spoke to soon, as now is see you used tempered hardboard. both work well, and can be re-used for future templating in the build. Truckee brings back memories for me, spent a couple seasons snowboarding there circa 89 90, house on the river. Hope you get some snow sometime soon!
@@TheMomentEnds1 No worries 🙂I thought it seemed too hard to use a razor knife, but I was just about to go out to the garage to give it a try out of curiosity. Truckee's a great town! Have fun with your build.
Hi there, question for you. We applied 2 coats of the Vermont Coating to the strips and 3 sheets of plywood, and are almost through the gallon. Does that sound about right? We we wondering what roller you used to apply this and if that could make a difference.
Also, are you planning on using the Vermont Coatings and Caliwell on the walls, cabinets, and other woodwork?
We used a paint brush for the strips and a roller (not sure what kind?) for the plywood. I'm not at my house right now, so can't check how much we had left, but I think we used about 3/4 gallon. We cut the wood before applying the Vermont coating and the mold and mildew. If you applied it prior to coating the wood, you would use more than we did.
I know have the step to do my sub floor. thanks
Great! Glad this was helpful. Good luck with your subfloor!
What was the decision making process to consider wood vs aluminum? The usual seems to be 1x1 aluminum stock for the furring.
We didn't consider aluminum for the furring strips, so there was really no decision making process for using wood vs aluminum 🙂 We're happy with the wood furring strips though (and they're a lot cheaper than using aluminum)
Were those two bags of havelock wool enough to do all the insulation on your van? Love your videos!
Im not them, but I can tell you 1 bag is 200 sq ft. Havlock says a promaster 159 (which is what I have) is 375 sq ft. I was going to use the stiff foam that most use, but I am leaning this way now...
I think a better way to get the template is to get a long sheet (or sheets put together) of stiff material, that are slightly wider than the largest dimension between nearest and farthest wall edges. Please this along the wall edge parallel with the long axis of the van. The take an length of stick T shaped with a hole in the middle of the T, for a sharpie. The idea is to move the stick, with sharpie facing down, so that the top of the T follows the inner edge of the sheet to the T is maintaining perpendicular orientation to the wall, while the bottom end of the T follows the wall contour. The sharpie draws an outline of the wall on the sheet as the T stick is moved down. Repeat for the other side. Cut out the drawn lines, place the left and right templates in place and measure the distance between the two for the filling distance to complete the template.
Interesting idea. There's definitely more than one way to skin a cat 😉Always open to new suggestions. If you've done it this way, we'd love to see some photos to get a better idea of what you're talking about!
@@wanderlibre4434the technique is a carpenters scribing technique. For small distances, they use a compass device, but for the longer distances involved in a van, the T stick does the job. I didn't mean to belittle your efforts, just give others an easier option. Googling "how to scribe" will give videos of the technique on small scale.
@@granitfog No worries, no offense taken. It's great to give others different ideas on how to tackle a project. Much appreciated!
This might be stating the obvious but why did you not space the furring strips the exact width of the insulation wool?
Why have you chosen to use Birch plywood? I’m about to lay my floor, not sure which hardwood to use. Thanks 🙏🏼
Lots of benefits to using birch plywood but in our case we specifically chose Columbia Forest Birch Plywood because we wanted a quality plywood that's dimensionally stable (not prone to expansion / contraction with weather changes), that's FSC certified and not manufactured using formaldehyde.
So your van did not come with the factory thin subfloor already installed? I want to use my factory sub flooring to trace onto the birch plywood.
No, it didn't. Wish it had! Using it should make the process much easiery for you.
Why did you choose not to go the full length of the van with the furring strips?
You can easily mount the furring strips either way. We found it easier to mount across, partly because several of the floor ribs running front to back don't run the entire length of the floor. We also wanted to preserve some space under the floor to potentially run wiring conduit and for that we wanted to run the wires across rather than front to back.
This was an amazing video, very organised, it constantly grabbed my attention, and it broke down every step making it easy. If you would not have made out that you were beginners you could have come off as pros.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate the kind comment. ☺️
@@wanderlibre4434 Have you had any issues with your floor buckling? I like the idea of not screwing the firring strips into the bed of the van. Can you tell me, did you put any screws through the subfloor and THROUGH the bed of the van anywhere?
Or did you anchor the subfloor solely through the Marine adhesive on the firring strips, attaching the plywood to the firring strips with screws every 12 inches, and the built in anchors (where you removed the D rings) of the van?
Was there anything I missed? If I'm correct, your installation method didn't require any new holes in the floor of the van! Is that correct? Thank you very much for anything further you can share.
@@sheri4673 That's correct! We didn't add any new holes to the floor of the van. The marine adhesive attaches the furring strips to the floor and the screws attach the plywood to the furring strips. So far so good; we haven't had any buckling. The floor feels really solid.
@@wanderlibre4434 THANK YOU SOOOOOOO much for replying! That's great news, I'm using your method.
Can you please tell me, did you use the sheeps wool insulation in the walls of the van, I"m binge watching your videos hoping you show how you insulated the walls.
What an excellent job you did on this videos, enormously helpful!
@@sheri4673 Thanks! Much appreciated 🙂 We'll be installing the wool insulation in the walls of the van soon. We''ll have a video for that - once the project is completed! Next video coming up this weekend is solar installation, if you're interested in installing solar.
HI again, did you use 1/2 inch plywood, 5/8, or 3/4 inch please for the subfloor? Thanks!!
...and, if 1/2 inch, are you happy w your choice or would you have preferred thicker for better stability?
@@melissadoe2250 we used 1/2 inch plywood and don’t see a reason to use anything thicker.
@@wanderlibre4434 What size furring strips? Thanks!
@@bryanmilsap919 We used 1x2 for the furring strips
@@wanderlibre4434, does it matter the kind of wood for the furring strips? I'm using 1/2' birch plywood and thinking of just using pine 1x2 furring.
What kinda glue did you use
What type of wood did they use for their furring strips?
Hi! How many gallons of the water and mold resistant paint did you guys use? Thank you!
Hi. We used 1 gallon of mold and mildew and a little less than a gallon of the waterproofing paint!
Did you guys use marine grade plywood or interior grade?
No, it wasn't marine grade
@@wanderlibre4434 I bought the same wood as you for my subfloor. My only concern is that the "pure bond" in that plywood is soy based and so the glue is not waterproof. I heard that plywood can easily become warped from moisture/water.
maybe i missed it but why not waterproof and mold proof the plywood subfloor?
You missed it 🙂 it's at 27:26
@@wanderlibre4434 GOt it thanks! great video
I know that they come with 2" thick from havelock. Do you use as they come in?
Yes, it comes 2" thick, but we tore off what we needed. Very easy to do.
As far as projects taking 2x longer than you expected, I think that you should consider how much time camera set ups and filming added to the project. Surely that was a considerable amt of time.
Yes, you're so right. It takes a lot of extra time! But with or without the camera, it would have taken longer than we anticipated!
@@wanderlibre4434 just don't want you beating yourself up over time estimates!! Heck how many pro's complete a project on schedule. I think for beginners you two are doing an incredible job.
@@jcrefasi1 Aw, you're sweet ☺️ Want to move in and be our support group? 😂
@@wanderlibre4434 yes!! I would love to be your on site cheerleader!!! But I'm afraid you guys will have your van finished by the time I find a local builder!!. Not too many people in Louisiana are interested.
Oh no! Good luck finding someone to help you.
If you don’t mind me asking how many bags of the wool it took for your floor
Probably about 1/3 of a bag.
It seems to me like a lot of work just to use wool batts. If moisture "does get in" then I feel no matter what system you use (closed off in this case) it will eventually fail! Very little heat is lost through the floor anyway. Something like 15%. Remember, hot air raisers. I would skip this messy bit. Use marine grade plywood (1/2" = r/0.62)on top of strips of D.P.C. & screw this down with s/s screws. I know drilling holes in the floor is not a good look (but can be painted underneath later) or just glue it down if concerned about the screwing. If cut properly it's not going to go anywhere in a hurry once all the cabinetry is fitted. If water then "does get in" it wont create any long term issues because it's able to "breathe". Good luck "out there"!
Vermont Natural Coatings said "We would not recommend using ANY product that contains any mold/mildewcide. This product is not designed to have anything else coated over the top of it. This product allows the wood to naturally grey/age, while also protecting it from water damage." What are your thoughts on this, would you still use the Caliwel on top of it?
@@TheAllSeeingAye that's interesting. They didn't tell me this when I inquired about using both. It's worked fine for us, but I would just go with their current advice.
Could you tell me how much havelock you used for the floors? I see they recommend 2 inches for walls but that is a bit much for the floor with height considerations.
Yes, 2 inches would be a bit much for the floor! We laid 1x2 furring strips (actual size is 3/4" high), so between that and the 1/4" ribs in the floor, it was about 1" in the floor. That (very) roughly equals 1/4 - 1/3 of a bag of Havelock wool in our 170 Sprinter. Hope this help. Let us know if you have any other questions.
@@wanderlibre4434 awesome thanks. Look forward to watching your videos! We are planning pretty much the exact layout as are plans mirror yours for what we want and need. Is yours the 170 ext?
@@melaniecollins4045 That's great! Have you started your build? No, we don't have the 170 ext, we have the regular 170
@@wanderlibre4434 I was poking thru the comments when I saw your mention of 1/4" height of the ribs...was that a reasonably exact 1/4, or a rough number? It'd be nice to know if it was more or less than 1/4" before I pull seats, d rings, and floor!
@@techcommtools It's a rough number. If I was doing a project where I needed to be more exact, I'd take more time to get the exact measurement.
Hey guys, one more question that has been nagging at me these last few days- Is it not important to have furring strips in place where our lower cabinets are going to be connecting to the floor? Or- are all of those cabinet anchor points going to be above the floor, on the sides?
We're using 10 of our factory cargo anchor points to secure our cabinets to the floor (our cabinet frames are built out of 8020)
Being organic, and containing a certain percentage of boric acid (I have no idea how toxic it is or not, but probably some type of toxic chemicals) - I wonder about wool vs thinsulate. Maybe indeed Thinsulate is better (and now neutral, no VOCs or things like boric acid and such). It's also inorganic, so mold shouldn't be able to infest it I'm guessing.
Awesome video! I think this will help me a TON when I do my floor. How much of a gap and which edges did you leave a gap on with the subfloor?
Thank you! I hope it helps ☺️. We left a 1/8" gap all the way around the entire floor. Good luck with yours!
@@wanderlibre4434 Ah shoot! I don't know why I asked these questions in the first place, I've watched this video so many times that I know the answers by heart. Thanks for replying anyways Wander Libre!
How thick is the havelock wool in the floor? Please
It's 3/4" in the floor, since we have 3/4" furring strips. You can install it thinner or thicker depending on your needs/requirements.
So when the description says the 1 gallon bucket covers 250sqf do they mean it does have enough paint included in the 1 bucket to be enough for the recommended 2 coats or does that mean if you want to paint 250sqf that you would have to purchase 2 buckets?🤔
We used 1 bucket to paint 2 coats 👍
@@wanderlibre4434 on what square footage? I'm building a 40 foot skoolie and using 2x3s so i have different square footage i need to cover
@@HajnalkaGyurgyovics I think the floor of our 170 Sprinter is 90 square feet, but I haven't done the math. We applied 2 coats on the top and bottom and had some left over.
@@wanderlibre4434 thank you.🙏🏻For now ordered 2 and we'll see how it lasts
Why not Kill Mat below the sub floor?
The "ridges" in the floor reduce vibration and the insulation we installed in the floor helps reduce road noise. So we didn't think it was worth the weight penalty to install Kilmat there.
Good effort but I dont think this is the best and most efficient way. The best and easiest would be to just get 1.5” foam panels and lay them down with no wood framing. They are meant to be walked on and the wood framing reduces the insulation and allows temperature changes. Also 1.5” foam has an R value of 9.5 where 1.25” wool has maybe R 5
Fair point, which we considered. But we ruled it out as we've seen too much foam littering waterways and beaches around the world, so we didn't want to contribute to that environmental problem. There are obviously many ways to install the floor and this method worked well for our wants/needs.
@@wanderlibre4434 wow thats a good point. I didn’t realize foam boards were a pollutant. Thanks for the info! Glad that it worked for you
And just leave the subflooring free floating? No need to screw it down?
Wow you really are overthinking this
@23:45 "The buttholes!" Access the buttholes!
Too funny 😂
Have you considered going into the business of van construction once you get comfortable with the van building process?
Funny you ask. Recently we' had a friend ask us to help with their build. Actually think it would be really fun!
See more of our van build series here: th-cam.com/play/PL94-4jJK5gPbOY2dCbmgwTCd30QRwRzhy.html
I just guess the floor doesn't need as much as ceiling
Are the furring strips really necessary? Seems like a lot of weight for not much benefit.
Some production tips: watch the audio levels, the music is bordering on too loud. Maybe change it up too sometimes. Watch out for vocal fry. Try not to talk while the power tools are running.
Really like the format of giving a quick rundown of your research, and the "what you've learned/would do different" at the end.
Hi. Thanks for the tips; we're still trying to figure all this out 😜As for the furring strips, they were necessary for us in order to create space for the Havelock wool insulation. They aren't necessary for other types of insulation, but do offer space to run conduit, etc under the floor.
@@wanderlibre4434 However, running conduit or wiring along the valleys in the floor would have to be well thought out and installed after the ferring strips but before the wool insulation install, correct? Too late in your build to do that without disrupting the wool.
Bad choice for floor insulation. It loses its R value when compressed.
Good video but man !!! that music coming in much louder than your voices....Tre's annoying...No music is better...IMO
Thanks, appreciate the feedback 👍We've tried to address that in our latest window and solar videos. Would love to hear your thoughts on those if you have a moment!
Rocket surgery???? Too avoid splintering, I would have marked top and bottom, flipped it and cut from bottom side. Why glue them to van floor instead of free floating- with a bracket to secure? Instead of cutting square holes, I would have smeared ink or chocolate on the bolts and pressed wood against it- then drilled on the spots it made. Rent out your template. I would have just done cardboard.
on headphones, music is way too loud.
Thanks for the feedback 👍. We've worked at trying to get the volume levels right on the later videos.
This video is misleading; no havelock were put in place at all.
You clearly didn't watch toward the end. Havelock is installed at 27:53.