I’ve used this stuff for 30 years? After a pro-rod builder introduced me to it. It doesn’t yellow (as much?) over time like flexcoat. I use it on big wood plugs & lures too. Great video. Thanks.
Looks really good! I’ll have to give it a try. I quit using flex coat for the same reason. I’ve used the Diamond 2 from Voodoo rods recently, and it seems to work well.
What ypu said about flex coat hardening is exactly why I switched. I had to return some flex coat to the local store where I bought it. We went through looking for a good kit and realized over half their stock on the shelf had some level of solidified hardener or "icebergs" in them. Switched to Gen 4 and so far so good.
Hey John great video again. Thanks for The helpful information. The issues I was finding for myself with the procoat and the flexcoat high-build formulas is that if you put on too thick of a coat they do not seem to have good bubble release. I think that has to do with the working time also correct the faster it sets up the less opportunities it has to release bubbles
Hi,very good and detailed info,I always use flex coat,no more than 8 oz to keep it fresh and prepared a wood little box to keep it away from light expossure,can be any place that totally block the light. Also bought the high build and if I need it lighter I thin it with pure acetone accordingly more or less, also works well when the epoxy begins to harden add a few drops to thin it again, it not affect the performance and always using in the same mixing cup (new always) hope to be helpfull for all you guys, try it first, from Puerto Rico ❤ 🤝
Great points Alexis, and yes, I keep all of my finish in a cabinet so the light doesn’t hit it. Instead of thinning my heavy build finishes, I just use the light build, and I use heat and foil to keep my finish workable. Again, thank you for sharing your techniques here in my community tab for everyone to learn from. 🙏
That looks impressive. I’m going to have to give this a try and maybe get away from flex coat. Thank you! You make it look easy tho, always such clean work in your videos
@@reelbluecustomrods always watch, i have just been trying to comment more since it is supposed to help channels grow and you give away a lot of great info.
Hi John. I am new to your channel, but I have been building my own rods in the UK for 40 years. I really like your approach and the content of your videos. This product looks amazingly good. But i have some questions for you. Do you have any feeling for how long the two components are stable in their individual bottles? Once you allow the air in, is there any sign of their character changing? I ask this because the larger bottles are significantly better value than the smaller ones.... but... only if the unmixed materials are stable. As we all know. Most things deteriorate on standing - even in a sealed bottle. Many thanks Malcolm
Thank you for the video. I realize this is an older video and hope you can answer. The max time between coats is 48 hrs. What would you recommend the minimum time between coats? Thanks for your time.
Gen 4 is the best i've ever used , takes 48 hours to fully cure though . Threadmaster is really good as well if you can still get it . Sadly Mudhole won't ship to the UK
Chris, that is a great question and I always apply when it’s on the dryer. The only time that do not do that is when I’m making videos for you guys to watch and when I’m working with pigments.
Mmmmmmmm. Great question, and I’m not sure how I feel about that. Maybe I’ll do a video on it. Thank you for watching and commenting.
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@@reelbluecustomrods I have been wondering the same thing... How does it compare to gen4 in your opinion. I use gen4 for some light fly rod and usually keep it light coated... My issue with gen4 is the application window is short before the product starts to thicken up. (Even if my room temp is 28F)
@@gardenerjohn - John, that could be due to the temperature or humidity where you are building, but at least you know you need extra time in your environment. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I don’t know why, but for some reason I like these brushes. I do have some larger brushes, but then I have to clean them when I’m done. Thank you for watching and commenting.
I’ve used this stuff for 30 years? After a pro-rod builder introduced me to it. It doesn’t yellow (as much?) over time like flexcoat. I use it on big wood plugs & lures too. Great video. Thanks.
You are very welcome and thank you for watching and commenting. 🙏
Looks really good! I’ll have to give it a try. I quit using flex coat for the same reason. I’ve used the Diamond 2 from Voodoo rods recently, and it seems to work well.
Interesting to hear that you had the same problem Ryan. Thanks for watching and commenting on todays video.
Excellent video! Good technique and instructions. Thank-you!
Thank you very much for watching and commenting, and thank you for the support. 🙏
Looks good seams like it spreads well
It does David.. what finish do you use?
Looks good so far
Thank you.
I recently went to light build Gen 4 and it's been great. In always interested in different options.
Awesome and glad to hear that Gen 4 is working well for you, and totally agree about having other options.
What ypu said about flex coat hardening is exactly why I switched. I had to return some flex coat to the local store where I bought it. We went through looking for a good kit and realized over half their stock on the shelf had some level of solidified hardener or "icebergs" in them. Switched to Gen 4 and so far so good.
Yep…and it unfortunate that they had/have this problem. Thanks again for watching.
Hey John great video again. Thanks for The helpful information. The issues I was finding for myself with the procoat and the flexcoat high-build formulas is that if you put on too thick of a coat they do not seem to have good bubble release. I think that has to do with the working time also correct the faster it sets up the less opportunities it has to release bubbles
Thank you 🦆 and agree.
I have just used it for the first time on a rod I am rebuilding and I have literally just cleaned up my brush it went on no problems so far
Glad to hear I Anthony and thank you for watching and commenting.
Hi,very good and detailed info,I always use flex coat,no more than 8 oz to keep it fresh and prepared a wood little box to keep it away from light expossure,can be any place that totally block the light.
Also bought the high build and if I need it lighter I thin it with pure acetone accordingly more or less, also works well when the epoxy begins to harden add a few drops to thin it again, it not affect the performance and always using in the same mixing cup (new always) hope to be helpfull for all you guys, try it first, from Puerto Rico ❤ 🤝
Great points Alexis, and yes, I keep all of my finish in a cabinet so the light doesn’t hit it. Instead of thinning my heavy build finishes, I just use the light build, and I use heat and foil to keep my finish workable. Again, thank you for sharing your techniques here in my community tab for everyone to learn from. 🙏
Really nice work thank you so much to share your work I’ve learn a lot with you 🙏🏽
You are very welcome and thank you for he kind words. Thanks for watching and commenting as well.
That looks impressive. I’m going to have to give this a try and maybe get away from flex coat. Thank you! You make it look easy tho, always such clean work in your videos
Thank you Frank and let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@reelbluecustomrods always watch, i have just been trying to comment more since it is supposed to help channels grow and you give away a lot of great info.
@@FrankM812 - I appreciate it very much.
This is the product I use. Happy with it, but important to let final coat to cure for several days. I leave it a week before I use the rod.
Agreed. I wait the full five additional days to make sure it has the full cure as well.
Thank you for watching and commenting.
Hi John. I am new to your channel, but I have been building my own rods in the UK for 40 years. I really like your approach and the content of your videos. This product looks amazingly good. But i have some questions for you.
Do you have any feeling for how long the two components are stable in their individual bottles? Once you allow the air in, is there any sign of their character changing? I ask this because the larger bottles are significantly better value than the smaller ones.... but... only if the unmixed materials are stable. As we all know. Most things deteriorate on standing - even in a sealed bottle.
Many thanks
Malcolm
Malcom, I received your email and will give you my answer in that response. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Thank you for the video. I realize this is an older video and hope you can answer. The max time between coats is 48 hrs. What would you recommend the minimum time between coats? Thanks for your time.
Everyone is different, but I wait 24 hours between coats. That being said, you could add another coat once it is dry
Gen 4 is the best i've ever used , takes 48 hours to fully cure though . Threadmaster is really good as well if you can still get it . Sadly Mudhole won't ship to the UK
Agreed and thank you for watching and commenting Shaun.
That’s a pretty wrap
Thank you Russell and thanks again for watching and commenting.
Wondering why you don’t apply finish to the rod while spinning with a machine? Much easier and faster imo.
Chris, that is a great question and I always apply when it’s on the dryer. The only time that do not do that is when I’m making videos for you guys to watch and when I’m working with pigments.
Thanks for watching and commenting as well.
Can you apply the U40 while the rod is turning at higher RPM's, the method I use for Gen 4 two part expoxy?
Yes you can Joel, but then transfer the rod to a dryer turning at a slower RPM once you’ve applied the finish. This will allow it to dry and cure.
So how’s it look on a white blank? I picked it up with the permagloss and not sure if I’ll use it or not
Jarod’s looks great in a white blank. I just posted pictures on my Instagram page of a white ice rod build I did and I used U-40 on it.
Thank you for watching and commenting as well.
Still haven’t tried it I had to recover from the permagloss. 🤣. That wasn’t like epoxy at all but atleast cut everything off in time.
@@jarrodbriggs8246 - we live and learn. 😀
para dar la segunda , lijas ? , grandes videos
Thank you and I’m glad you like the videos.
Do you like this more than Gen4?
Mmmmmmmm. Great question, and I’m not sure how I feel about that. Maybe I’ll do a video on it. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@reelbluecustomrods I have been wondering the same thing... How does it compare to gen4 in your opinion. I use gen4 for some light fly rod and usually keep it light coated... My issue with gen4 is the application window is short before the product starts to thicken up. (Even if my room temp is 28F)
You want the room warmer, ideally around 70 degrees when working with most finishes, but I do know that some have short working windows.
@@reelbluecustomrods I meant to write 80F or roughly 28C. If I am not mistaken this one part finish is no longer produced?
Oh ok, and I’m not sure about the one part finish.
I've found that tack free time for me personally is 12 + hrs I touched the finish after about 10 hrs n smudged the finish cause it was still tacky
@@gardenerjohn - John, that could be due to the temperature or humidity where you are building, but at least you know you need extra time in your environment. Thank you for watching and commenting.
seems like you need a bigger brush
I don’t know why, but for some reason I like these brushes. I do have some larger brushes, but then I have to clean them when I’m done. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@reelbluecustomrods acid brush from the plumbing section? $3 for 100 at harbor frigate
You take 24 hours, and Only Show us the same section of the rod time and again!!!!!
Yes because I’m only using it on one section.
You work to slow! Do it faster!
Thank you for watching and commenting.