So enjoyable to watch you take time and patience and think through situations and issues. The extra few minutes to think how can we remove the door trim and hopefully not damage it. Also verifying that the connector pins were giving intermittent connection. These are the reasons everyone wishes you were in our town and we were your customers. As always great video content. Merry Christmas to you and Mrs. O.
Amen to that! All we have in my area are shade tree and wannabe mechanics. Eric is an auto tech genius in my opinion. When it comes to the wiring I can get lost real quick lol.
We had a guy like Eric when I lived in OC California. He was a foreign car genius. We had a Volvo and if there was a problem, he'd have it fixed the first time. I remember he rebuilt his Dad's 66 Jaguar XKE convertible. Frame off restoration, built his own wire harness, perfect engine rebuild. Car looked like it came off the showroom floor. Gave it back to his Dad for his birthday.
Mr O's concientiousness and attention to detail is unreal. Tip on plastics door and other tabs for my fellow amateurs out there without Eric O's encyclopedic knowledge of disassembly techniques....get yerselves a basic plastic welder....essentially a soldering iron with wide tip....and some stainless steel mesh fabric. When you snap anything plastic....and you will...put all the broken bits back into position and then melt the wire mesh into the plastic across the breaks. The repaired part is stronger than the original. Never fails.
Very interesting diagnosis and repair videos on the air bag light - thank you for sharing them. I checked the service data for my vehicle since it uses the same sensors in the doors and discovered a couple of things that I thought I would share. There is a notation in the service data on my vehicle that states: "NOTE: The signal circuit is shared at the K36 Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module between the B63LF Side Impact Sensor - Left Front and the B63RR Side Impact Sensor - Right Rear (OTC 80085 and DTC 80088). Therefore a short to ground or short to voltage in either of these signal circuits can set a DTC for both circuits, and an open in either circuit should only set its corresponding DTC." This probably explains why the two sensor codes set when the sensor connector was shorted to ground since the circuits appear to be shared with the SRS module. The door sensors respond to a sudden change in air pressure inside the door cavity to activate the sensor rather than vehicle motion. The SRS module uses the information along with data from other sensors to determine things like if the vehicle is running, parked, occupied, in motion, etc. to determine whether a specific air bag should be deployed or not. From reading between the lines in the service data the SRS module checks with each sensor at start up until shut down various times per second to see if it can communicate with each sensor - probably the sensor has some sort of internal resistance reading across the two terminals. As long as the SRS can detect that resistance level is present it is happy but if the resistance value remains open or is shorted for a given time interval (more than 5 milliseconds is what I read) then the SRS will set a code for one or more sensors depending on the conditions it sees. If the ohm value of the sensor was known I would assume a variable resistor of a similar value could be connected in place of the sensor to test the integrity of the wiring and SRS module but that is only a guess. As someone else stated one too many door slams may be what caused the sensors to fail or perhaps built in GM obsolescence (God's Mystery) - it does seem strange they would both fail at the same time.
Hey Eric O, Allan here from Australia! You’ve given me the confidence to repair and rebuild my LS. This has been my first comment on your vids. A shout out to you and Connector Experts. Love you and your camaraderie with Mrs O. Please keep up the vids! Absolutely love everything you guys do! Love from Al and Kobe from the AU!
So you are the type of guy who splices wires side by side. GENERALLY SPEAKING, I love to watch high-level diagnosticians talk about the possible mistakes they make when a customized checklist would have prevented the possible misstep in the repair procedure. Thanks for the Connector info. THUMBS UP
Experience & maintenance procedures are so important to prevent damage to plastic panels...especially experience. I still cringe every time I pop plastic door/interior panels and instrument panels. Sometimes the noise coming apart makes it sound expensive & a relief when it isn't. Nice diagnosis & repair and the connector info is valuable. You have made a great reputation for yourself and independent auto repair shops. Makes me proud to know you and someday we will meet whenever I come to NY to visit family. I'm semi-retired but it is so nice to see other independent owners give the auto repair industry a good name for quality work and diagnosing thoroughly...thanks!
There is nothing worse than taking off a plastic panel thinking those snap noises are the connectors releasing and it’s actually the panel breaking around them.
your tip at the end is incredibly important mr o not only do you not want to go blow up any air bags but i remember fixing a truck that an employee smoked the models in by cutting and splicing the under hood fuse box out on a 2011 f250 an it messed up everything the entire sub harness had to be replaced along with the bcm and a complete reprogramming of the truck as its data was badly corrupted from repeated bad diagnoses prior to coming to me its its configuration was so bad it thought it was a dually an had a completely different transmission so it was shifting strange an often not at all plus it’s security system wasn’t configured right so it thought it was being stolen all the time inside courtesy lights flashing as you’re driving. So annoying. a real mess the sad thing is it damaged the transmission so i don’t shift well if you’re hard on it when it’s cold but if you warm it up, it’s fine now and fixed. The boss is waiting for it to fail to rebuild it. What a mess.
You have a thing I've seen you do a lot for a long time, you check how tight a connection holds together. This time that check was needed to fix the problem, ignore it and you're still in trouble with this problem. I worked on my own cars for years, never thought to do this check. It might have come in handy. Experience is why you're so good. Pay attention to detail, analyze the problem, recall past issues, all plays into a mechanic who never seems to be stuck. A real gem of a tech. Great stuff.
I find Mr. O's commentary absolutely enjoyable. I could listen to him reading and explaining a cake recipe though he might need a bit of help from Mrs. O. for that..Merry Christmas from my family to yours as well!
South Main Auto.. One of the other Master techs where I used to work was diagnosing an airbag system. Well he probed the wrong wires and all (I think 5) of the airbags blew at the same time. I was on vacation when it happened but everyone said it scared him so bad he pooped his pants and had to go home for the rest of the day. I LMAO and said man, I always miss the good stuff.
As a gm tech for 6 years, that is the way I reinstall those doors. I usually use a set of needle nose pliers or plastic clip tool to depress both sides of the metal clip to take them out. Also had a 16 Sierra 1500 after an accident come from a body shop with new airbags and SDM wanting it programmed. Could not program it due to codes in the system. Read codes and had some from both front side impact sensors and seat belt anchor pretensioners. Pretensioners were deployed, so they needed replacement anyway, but just like you, there was no indication that the impact sensors were bad except for the code. Replacement fixed all codes and programmed vehicle.
Do SDM or SRS modules still lock out a crash wipe and program after a crash flag thus making it only possible to erase the codes by replacing the module / or get a company to manually erase the chip? Id assume so incase evidence needs to stay on the unit without any kind of tampering
I like that T-handle wrench, very handy. Jeez Louise, it took you longer to get to the sensors than it did to diagnose and replace them. Love those kinds of designs. Maybe water got into the sensors and they failed one after the other in short order? I think they make that plastic out of wasa crisp bread. Land Rover uses the same formula. Connector Experts. I will have to remember them, Working on old Land Rovers getting connectors can be a trial. Instructions for installing crimped connectors: 1. Connect the wires securely together 2. slide the connector over the wire connection 3. crimp securely using the proper crimping tool 4. But first slide on the heat shrink tubing.
I know this was a simple fix for you Eric, but before these vids I had assumed that working on airbag wiring was about as risky as bomb disposal! Now I have the confidence to go "ripping and tearin" with the airbag right next to my ear.. So thankyou..:)
Some type of surge may have caused them to both go bad, low to high voltage, badly regulated current, or worse lightning strike. around or near or on the vehicle while it was parked somewhere.I parked my Chevy truck in downtown Atlanta one day while working, had a very bad storm Lightning hail high winds came out to start my truck at the end of the day, and nothing and I kept smelling something that was burned. Then another guy in the lot noticed a burned spot with a cut right through the steel. Just remove the mirror on the passenger side door the computer had to be replaced to get the vehicle running the smell was determined that it was the smell of ozone. I kept saying something burning, but it was ozone odor.
That's actually not a bad thought, though with all the under voltage codes, I wonder if something tanked the battery and caused the sensors to freak out.
I wish you could start a automotive diagnostic training of some sort. The auto repair industry is IN DIRE NEED OF TECHNICALLY SOUND diagnosticians...... Great work as always Eric. Aloha and Mahaloz from Maui, Hawaii.
I understand there are at least 2 types of sensors, the off/on type and the type that measures sudden changes in acceleration \ deceleration. I wonder if either can be damaged with a deer collision? Not a hard fail, but never right again kind of thing leading to a early failure. While watching the video and thinking, here is what I came up with... - These parts are prone to failure? - the deer collision mentioned in the video set these up for a an early death? - someone was in there and TESTED them to death? - I'm never right, so its something else! Love your approach and the time you take with the hardware - truly a lost art today.
Brave man shorting them to ground lol. I guess you just have to know the system like you said. Brilliant diagnosis as always and clear explanations of your diagnostic procedures. Would have been easy to think there's no way 3 sensors could be faulty at the same time Brilliant.
awesome job.... like it. trying to maintain the integrity of ones auto today is can be most difficulty at times. god job boss. The Lord Bless you and yours.
Time delay self destruct. Planned for you to trade it in on a new one. Easy fix and put it in the used lot at twice the trade-in value... Thanks for videos!
I was noticing how clean everything under the door panels and inside those doors were. No dust, no dirt, everthing clean and shiny. Not like the cars Eric usually finds himself in the middle of.
It's nice to be able to get connectors in the US. I was looking for one for my Jag a few months ago, but Jaguar don't supply them separately and the company that make them, don't supply to the public, so I ended up buying a secondhand part with the connector attached. I couldn't see anyone in the UK supplying them.
Happy to report GM Door Trim Engineering went away from those metal spring clips. At least they did on my 2022 GMC Yukon XL. New design has a channel in the lower sash which a lip on the door trim drops into and that holds the door panel in place at the top edge ILO the spring clips. Some engineer saved GM money (no spring clips) and made it easier to service! Give that guy a raise! Oh and BTW - the reason I had door trim off a 1 year old SUV is because my kids left it open and we had a 15min monsoon pass over in August. I wanted to take it off and make sure I got everything dried out.
Expensive connector, you betcha. I just purchased a throttle body pigtail for a whopping $62! But hey, I can't fix it without it and I can't make it from scratch.
When I repair the connectors I offset the splice but, Well that's just me. And the tape you are using is what we call friction tape. Look at any older Chrysler's. The original red lock tab people. Thanks for another great video!
Curious as to why both side airbag sensors failed at the same time. One thought is that the really small prongs in the connectors do not work when they are even slightly oxidized/dirty. Next time, it may be interesting to try and spray the electrical prongs within the connector with electrical connector cleaner and see if that solves the problem. That is the way it works on my Jeep Grand Cherokee - about every three years after year 12.
Had two window motors fail on a gm van at the same time. Talked to the local dealer and they said I should take it up with gm customer relations. They agreed it must have been a manufacturing defect and they covered the cost of the motors.
Eric I forgot to mention in part 1 that if you found Tape(Masking) covered in Paint, Someone has definitely been in there. Another way to tell is, if inside the Door(especially underneath) is totally Painted/Clearcoat etc(no overspray/lighter parts), that's another way to tell. They're usually pretty light on/crappy under there (unless it's a Euro). While in the "Body Shop"(as you guys call it) we try to make it look like no one's ever been there as much as possible, stuff still does happen! I had a bit of a chuckle(expecting an on cam Scanner Danner moment) when you put the blow Torch next to the Battery, as several years ago one of my Workers was Grinding next to a Battery(cut off wheel doing a Skirt & Rad Support Panel) guess what happened?! Funny now, but not back then let me tell you! 😂
I had a friend, many years ago, who insisted on slamming the passenger door on my then brand new Toyota SR-5 (that was the model, back then; now it's a trim package). I told him several times that this wasn't the old sh*tbox he drove and you didn't have to slam the doors. It's a wonder he never broke the window, that's how hard he would slam it. I finally banned him from riding in my truck. It's a good thing they didn't have airbag sensors back then.
@@tetedur377 My sister did the same thing on Thanksgiving to my Accord. I thought the window was going to break! I told her, "Hey, this isn't a Toyota. You don't have to slam the doors."
I've often wondered why slamming the door doesn't set them off. I suppose the computer knows if the vehicle is moving but it seems that the airbags would need to deploy if the vehicle is hit while stopped too.
Nice Diag Mr. O! Still curious why the front right and left rear sensors are somehow linked together. (Through the software in the module?). Great video! 👍🏻👍🏻
My guess is the common rail of a zone supplying the ref voltage is monitored as well as the airbag return circuit, so the return circuit will see either voltage in a spec or nothing as well if the ref voltage is shorted to ground it would see the ref is 0v causing both airbag return circuits to receive 0v
Probably using front and rear left and right alternations lets it be a bit more redundant and reliable with knowing its a false trip (wiring fault) or a real collision on a certain side
Does each air bag inflators have there own connection at the air bag control module just asking and i thought each seat and belt harness sends its own signals - could it be a factory defect . Yea my Chevy-two water bottles can and will turn on the seatbelt ding and lights on right front and the back seats too if to much junk is there in that seating area ❤
one of two possibilities you mentioned black mold in the one door!!! he may wash it a lot!!! or its keep in a unheated garage with a lot of moisture and finally lighting hit by his vehicle!!!!!😀
They( the new ones ) should be better because they are made in Canada 🤣🤣and those clips are a pisser to fix I had one come apart on me in a GM-H AUS vehicle I learnt my lesson Cheers Mr O.
I had the exact issue (with the metal clips for the window squeegee/felt wiper) with my 2018 Sierra 1500 when I swapped out my mirrors for trailer mirrors. What a PISSER! I agree, Eric. Dumbest idea! Had me shaking my head trying to understand the logic behind the design.
Those clips and panels are just like the Malibu. But they say to just remove them, put them on the door with the rubber and then snap the panel in place
Eric, you should have cut the wires one at a time. Friend of mine did that and the air bags went off, consider yourself lucky. Good work, always watch your work, I learn a lot from you.
Interesting that air bags went off. The newer cars airbag module has quite a bit of guard logic that would prevent this from occurring. The car wasn't moving so the air bags going off seems like a extremely unlikely event. I qualified air bag controller chips for the Japanese and Ford automotive and testing the chips was a nightmare because of the guard logic. Remember the movie Iron Eagle where he was using the guns on the ground? Yea, thats impossible too with weight on wheels.... aircraft munitions will not go off with weight on wheels.... tons of logic control there as well.......
So enjoyable to watch you take time and patience and think through situations and issues. The extra few minutes to think how can we remove the door trim and hopefully not damage it. Also verifying that the connector pins were giving intermittent connection. These are the reasons everyone wishes you were in our town and we were your customers. As always great video content. Merry Christmas to you and Mrs. O.
Amen to that! All we have in my area are shade tree and wannabe mechanics. Eric is an auto tech genius in my opinion. When it comes to the wiring I can get lost real quick lol.
We had a guy like Eric when I lived in OC California. He was a foreign car genius. We had a Volvo and if there was a problem, he'd have it fixed the first time. I remember he rebuilt his Dad's 66 Jaguar XKE convertible. Frame off restoration, built his own wire harness, perfect engine rebuild. Car looked like it came off the showroom floor. Gave it back to his Dad for his birthday.
Mr O's concientiousness and attention to detail is unreal. Tip on plastics door and other tabs for my fellow amateurs out there without Eric O's encyclopedic knowledge of disassembly techniques....get yerselves a basic plastic welder....essentially a soldering iron with wide tip....and some stainless steel mesh fabric. When you snap anything plastic....and you will...put all the broken bits back into position and then melt the wire mesh into the plastic across the breaks. The repaired part is stronger than the original. Never fails.
Another great demonstration of patience. I've shed lots of skin and blood to those damn metal clips.
You would make an EXCELLENT auto shop teacher, Mr. O!
Your exactly right. I was thinking the same thing. He's amazing.
Very interesting diagnosis and repair videos on the air bag light - thank you for sharing them. I checked the service data for my vehicle since it uses the same sensors in the doors and discovered a couple of things that I thought I would share. There is a notation in the service data on my vehicle that states: "NOTE: The signal circuit is shared at the K36 Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module between the B63LF Side Impact Sensor - Left Front and the B63RR Side Impact Sensor - Right Rear (OTC 80085 and DTC 80088). Therefore a short to ground or short to voltage in either of these signal circuits can set a DTC for both circuits, and an open in either circuit should only set its corresponding DTC." This probably explains why the two sensor codes set when the sensor connector was shorted to ground since the circuits appear to be shared with the SRS module. The door sensors respond to a sudden change in air pressure inside the door cavity to activate the sensor rather than vehicle motion. The SRS module uses the information along with data from other sensors to determine things like if the vehicle is running, parked, occupied, in motion, etc. to determine whether a specific air bag should be deployed or not. From reading between the lines in the service data the SRS module checks with each sensor at start up until shut down various times per second to see if it can communicate with each sensor - probably the sensor has some sort of internal resistance reading across the two terminals. As long as the SRS can detect that resistance level is present it is happy but if the resistance value remains open or is shorted for a given time interval (more than 5 milliseconds is what I read) then the SRS will set a code for one or more sensors depending on the conditions it sees. If the ohm value of the sensor was known I would assume a variable resistor of a similar value could be connected in place of the sensor to test the integrity of the wiring and SRS module but that is only a guess. As someone else stated one too many door slams may be what caused the sensors to fail or perhaps built in GM obsolescence (God's Mystery) - it does seem strange they would both fail at the same time.
Wouldn’t be surprised if someone had tried jump starting another car. And the power maybe made a voltage spike through the module causing a failure
Bang on topic for the diagnosis video! Thanks for sharing.
Hey Eric O, Allan here from Australia! You’ve given me the confidence to repair and rebuild my LS. This has been my first comment on your vids. A shout out to you and Connector Experts. Love you and your camaraderie with Mrs O. Please keep up the vids! Absolutely love everything you guys do! Love from Al and Kobe from the AU!
Mr O & Ivan from PHAD Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics are the best two on YT.The rest are wanna be flashies.
@@LesReeveswatch wes work is good also
And Rainman Ray👍@@AppalachianRancher
@@dvpa1I unsubscribed from him he was stupid.. Kind of a hack and acts like a baby. Got tired of watching him work on his truck.
Greetings from loveland colorado. We love our brothers and sisters in Australia. One of my favorite allies some hard men for sure.
So you are the type of guy who splices wires side by side. GENERALLY SPEAKING, I love to watch high-level diagnosticians talk about the possible mistakes they make when a customized checklist would have prevented the possible misstep in the repair procedure. Thanks for the Connector info. THUMBS UP
Experience & maintenance procedures are so important to prevent damage to plastic panels...especially experience. I still cringe every time I pop plastic door/interior panels and instrument panels. Sometimes the noise coming apart makes it sound expensive & a relief when it isn't. Nice diagnosis & repair and the connector info is valuable. You have made a great reputation for yourself and independent auto repair shops. Makes me proud to know you and someday we will meet whenever I come to NY to visit family. I'm semi-retired but it is so nice to see other independent owners give the auto repair industry a good name for quality work and diagnosing thoroughly...thanks!
Thanks Bob 👍🏼
Less than 80,000 miles and the airbag sensors failed and the wiper motor is bad. Pathetic. Nice work as always, Mr. O!
Great diag process....again no collateral damage to the vehicle. Boy, the connector experts are super proud of their parts ! One 4 pin connector, $84.
100.00$ w shipping & ship separately.
They are based in Chicago…83% of that goes towards taxes.
@@matth5309They're over taxed to the point of No Sale.
Besides the excellent diagnosis, the upper door panel tip was great.
I could watch your code reader videos all day long.
There is nothing worse than taking off a plastic panel thinking those snap noises are the connectors releasing and it’s actually the panel breaking around them.
Because, of course they don't keep those parts in stock and you're the first and only one to ever break it
your tip at the end is incredibly important mr o not only do you not want to go blow up any air bags but i remember fixing a truck that an employee smoked the models in by cutting and splicing the under hood fuse box out on a 2011 f250 an it messed up everything the entire sub harness had to be replaced along with the bcm and a complete reprogramming of the truck as its data was badly corrupted from repeated bad diagnoses prior to coming to me its its configuration was so bad it thought it was a dually an had a completely different transmission so it was shifting strange an often not at all plus it’s security system wasn’t configured right so it thought it was being stolen all the time inside courtesy lights flashing as you’re driving. So annoying. a real mess the sad thing is it damaged the transmission so i don’t shift well if you’re hard on it when it’s cold but if you warm it up, it’s fine now and fixed. The boss is waiting for it to fail to rebuild it. What a mess.
Terrible.
You have a thing I've seen you do a lot for a long time, you check how tight a connection holds together. This time that check was needed to fix the problem, ignore it and you're still in trouble with this problem. I worked on my own cars for years, never thought to do this check. It might have come in handy. Experience is why you're so good. Pay attention to detail, analyze the problem, recall past issues, all plays into a mechanic who never seems to be stuck. A real gem of a tech. Great stuff.
OMG!, a caring and compassionate mechanic, who would have thought! Thank you Eric!...
Please do an autopsy on one of the bad sensors. I am very curious as to why it failed. Thanks.
I find Mr. O's commentary absolutely enjoyable. I could listen to him reading and explaining a cake recipe though he might need a bit of help from Mrs. O. for that..Merry Christmas from my family to yours as well!
Maybe one day!
South Main Auto.. One of the other Master techs where I used to work was diagnosing an airbag system. Well he probed the wrong wires and all (I think 5) of the airbags blew at the same time. I was on vacation when it happened but everyone said it scared him so bad he pooped his pants and had to go home for the rest of the day. I LMAO and said man, I always miss the good stuff.
It's always when you're not there that drama occurs
As a gm tech for 6 years, that is the way I reinstall those doors. I usually use a set of needle nose pliers or plastic clip tool to depress both sides of the metal clip to take them out.
Also had a 16 Sierra 1500 after an accident come from a body shop with new airbags and SDM wanting it programmed. Could not program it due to codes in the system. Read codes and had some from both front side impact sensors and seat belt anchor pretensioners. Pretensioners were deployed, so they needed replacement anyway, but just like you, there was no indication that the impact sensors were bad except for the code. Replacement fixed all codes and programmed vehicle.
Do SDM or SRS modules still lock out a crash wipe and program after a crash flag thus making it only possible to erase the codes by replacing the module / or get a company to manually erase the chip? Id assume so incase evidence needs to stay on the unit without any kind of tampering
I like that T-handle wrench, very handy. Jeez Louise, it took you longer to get to the sensors than it did to diagnose and replace them. Love those kinds of designs. Maybe water got into the sensors and they failed one after the other in short order?
I think they make that plastic out of wasa crisp bread. Land Rover uses the same formula.
Connector Experts. I will have to remember them, Working on old Land Rovers getting connectors can be a trial.
Instructions for installing crimped connectors:
1. Connect the wires securely together
2. slide the connector over the wire connection
3. crimp securely using the proper crimping tool
4. But first slide on the heat shrink tubing.
I know this was a simple fix for you Eric, but before these vids I had assumed that working on airbag wiring was about as risky as bomb disposal! Now I have the confidence to go "ripping and tearin" with the airbag right next to my ear.. So thankyou..:)
Don't forget to video that.
This wreaks of a case of inducing a short into the line. Didn't happen without help. Great job Eric!
What a great tip about latching the door so it doesn’t chime, thank you!
Some type of surge may have caused them to both go bad, low to high voltage, badly regulated current, or worse lightning strike. around or near or on the vehicle while it was parked somewhere.I parked my Chevy truck in downtown Atlanta one day while working, had a very bad storm Lightning hail high winds came out to start my truck at the end of the day, and nothing and I kept smelling something that was burned. Then another guy in the lot noticed a burned spot with a cut right through the steel. Just remove the mirror on the passenger side door the computer had to be replaced to get the vehicle running the smell was determined that it was the smell of ozone. I kept saying something burning, but it was ozone odor.
Just a guess but the sensors were over voltaged, the airbag module is probably also failing. Chances are Eric O will get a comeback on this one.
Lost 2 tvs to lightning strikes. Neither actually went into house circuits so I assume it was just the air current?
That's actually not a bad thought, though with all the under voltage codes, I wonder if something tanked the battery and caused the sensors to freak out.
Excellent work Eric and seasons greetings to you all
I wish you could start a automotive diagnostic training of some sort. The auto repair industry is IN DIRE NEED OF TECHNICALLY SOUND diagnosticians...... Great work as always Eric. Aloha and Mahaloz from Maui, Hawaii.
Great job catching that pin drag.
Your the Best !!!! Thank you so much , watching you for years , Im Donating . Thanks Eric
Thanks for the follow up on this one, Eric. Your diag was spot on, as usual.
Nice clean and tidy fix. Proper pride in the job.
I understand there are at least 2 types of sensors, the off/on type and the type that measures sudden changes in acceleration \ deceleration. I wonder if either can be damaged with a deer collision? Not a hard fail, but never right again kind of thing leading to a early failure.
While watching the video and thinking, here is what I came up with...
- These parts are prone to failure?
- the deer collision mentioned in the video set these up for a an early death?
- someone was in there and TESTED them to death?
- I'm never right, so its something else!
Love your approach and the time you take with the hardware - truly a lost art today.
Great finish on this one Eric ..thanks for the end of the book closure.
Nice easy job Eric! Don't get many like this. Like your explanation of OHM test, very good.
Don't use a torch next to the battery. Good advice.👍
Great video as usual Eric but you weren't kidding about the connector being expensive 17:43 it lists for almost $89!
Thanks for the plug on the connection experts! I had never heard of them or stumbled across them before.
another great video from the Great Republic Of NY !
As always IMPRESSIVE. Well done, skill at its best.
Brave man shorting them to ground lol. I guess you just have to know the system like you said. Brilliant diagnosis as always and clear explanations of your diagnostic procedures. Would have been easy to think there's no way 3 sensors could be faulty at the same time Brilliant.
Really enjoyed this video, and your expertise in putting everything back together perfectly.
Nice job. Well done.
awesome job.... like it. trying to maintain the integrity of ones auto today is can be most difficulty at times.
god job boss.
The Lord Bless you and yours.
I love watching your channel you’re teaching me a lot thank you
Your car show comments always give me a giggle.
Time delay self destruct. Planned for you to trade it in on a new one. Easy fix and put it in the used lot at twice the trade-in value... Thanks for videos!
I was noticing how clean everything under the door panels and inside those doors were. No dust, no dirt, everthing clean and shiny. Not like the cars Eric usually finds himself in the middle of.
It's nice to be able to get connectors in the US. I was looking for one for my Jag a few months ago, but Jaguar don't supply them separately and the company that make them, don't supply to the public, so I ended up buying a secondhand part with the connector attached. I couldn't see anyone in the UK supplying them.
Here in Germany you can get similar pigtails for wiring harness repair from VW, BMW, etc.
You're the best Mr. O! Great video.
Thank ya for sharing the connector website. I have been... not actively... looking for something just that... for a future project.
Hi from the east coast Canada 🇨🇦. Love your content.
Happy to report GM Door Trim Engineering went away from those metal spring clips. At least they did on my 2022 GMC Yukon XL. New design has a channel in the lower sash which a lip on the door trim drops into and that holds the door panel in place at the top edge ILO the spring clips. Some engineer saved GM money (no spring clips) and made it easier to service! Give that guy a raise! Oh and BTW - the reason I had door trim off a 1 year old SUV is because my kids left it open and we had a 15min monsoon pass over in August. I wanted to take it off and make sure I got everything dried out.
Always impressive. Thanks for the connector lead. I'll use them. MERRY CHRISTMAS
Excellent video and a great logical approach.👍👍👍
We call it friction tape in the oilfield. When I worked in AK, the brand we used was made in Canada.
Expensive connector, you betcha. I just purchased a throttle body pigtail for a whopping $62! But hey, I can't fix it without it and I can't make it from scratch.
Buick Thunder
Thank you for the video
When I repair the connectors I offset the splice but, Well that's just me. And the tape you are using is what we call friction tape. Look at any older Chrysler's. The original red lock tab people. Thanks for another great video!
Perfect name for that door pull area. FINGER GOO COLLECTOR
As always great work!
another great video Eric, thank you!
Curious as to why both side airbag sensors failed at the same time. One thought is that the really small prongs in the connectors do not work when they are even slightly oxidized/dirty. Next time, it may be interesting to try and spray the electrical prongs within the connector with electrical connector cleaner and see if that solves the problem. That is the way it works on my Jeep Grand Cherokee - about every three years after year 12.
That's a Chrysler thing. Has been for a long time. We keep contact enhancer around and have never used it on anything but a Chrysler.
Did they actually fail at the same time though? Only takes one to turn the warning light on. The other could have failed weeks after in theory.
Had two window motors fail on a gm van at the same time. Talked to the local dealer and they said I should take it up with gm customer relations. They agreed it must have been a manufacturing defect and they covered the cost of the motors.
You Have hands of a doctor like your channel goog job Happy Holidays
Thanks for this, much appreciated!
Tesa tape is old fashion friction tape, also makes great taped stickball bats handles for you youngsters that never grew up in the city.
You could buy a real bat for the price of a roll of Tesa tape lol
Brilliant! The dealerships should send their techs to you for training…..”Eric O’s School of Automotive EMF and Component Wizardry”
Thanks for the video Eric.
Great work awesome video !
Morning Eric👍👍
Would you consider opening one of the bad sensors to let us see what is inside, how they work and maybe determine what went wrong with it?
I really thought he was going to open one just to see how it was put together.
GM, the Mark of ExLax
Nice Work
Eric I forgot to mention in part 1 that if you found Tape(Masking) covered in Paint, Someone has definitely been in there. Another way to tell is, if inside the Door(especially underneath) is totally Painted/Clearcoat etc(no overspray/lighter parts), that's another way to tell. They're usually pretty light on/crappy under there (unless it's a Euro). While in the "Body Shop"(as you guys call it) we try to make it look like no one's ever been there as much as possible, stuff still does happen!
I had a bit of a chuckle(expecting an on cam Scanner Danner moment) when you put the blow Torch next to the Battery, as several years ago one of my Workers was Grinding next to a Battery(cut off wheel doing a Skirt & Rad Support Panel) guess what happened?! Funny now, but not back then let me tell you! 😂
Its back great video as always
Classic domestic altercation symptom. One person slams a door, then the other has to retaliate and slam it harder. Bingo, sets off old crash sensors.
LMAO junk
I had a friend, many years ago, who insisted on slamming the passenger door on my then brand new Toyota SR-5 (that was the model, back then; now it's a trim package). I told him several times that this wasn't the old sh*tbox he drove and you didn't have to slam the doors. It's a wonder he never broke the window, that's how hard he would slam it. I finally banned him from riding in my truck.
It's a good thing they didn't have airbag sensors back then.
@@tetedur377 My sister did the same thing on Thanksgiving to my Accord. I thought the window was going to break! I told her, "Hey, this isn't a Toyota. You don't have to slam the doors."
I've often wondered why slamming the door doesn't set them off. I suppose the computer knows if the vehicle is moving but it seems that the airbags would need to deploy if the vehicle is hit while stopped too.
@@tiredoldmechanic1791 The acceleration curve is different - impact vs door slam....
Hi Eric. Maybe the censors susceptible to the heavy hitters door bangers .
$88.91 for that connector. Yes Eric, that connector was expensive!
Nice Diag Mr. O! Still curious why the front right and left rear sensors are somehow linked together. (Through the software in the module?). Great video! 👍🏻👍🏻
My guess is the common rail of a zone supplying the ref voltage is monitored as well as the airbag return circuit, so the return circuit will see either voltage in a spec or nothing as well if the ref voltage is shorted to ground it would see the ref is 0v causing both airbag return circuits to receive 0v
Probably using front and rear left and right alternations lets it be a bit more redundant and reliable with knowing its a false trip (wiring fault) or a real collision on a certain side
good video enjoy as always stay warm
I drove a 91 mustang for years with the air bag light on. No harm no foul. Yes I knew it was on didnt have money to find the issue.
Does each air bag inflators have there own connection at the air bag control module just asking and i thought each seat and belt harness sends its own signals - could it be a factory defect . Yea my Chevy-two water bottles can and will turn on the seatbelt ding and lights on right front and the back seats too if to much junk is there in that seating area ❤
Hope y'all are staying warm up there.
Another fine job
one of two possibilities you mentioned black mold in the one door!!! he may wash it a lot!!! or its keep in a unheated garage with a lot of moisture and finally lighting hit by his vehicle!!!!!😀
They( the new ones ) should be better because they are made in Canada 🤣🤣and those clips are a pisser to fix I had one come apart on me in a GM-H AUS vehicle I learnt my lesson Cheers Mr O.
I suspect that the front left sensor issue made the other sensors misread similar to the way shorting the sensor made others read wrong!
On the side sensors: could there have been some sort of electrical "surge" during the deer impact(if wires got pinched)?
An electric deer hit the sensor 😅
Good morning everyone!
Great Diag, a odd one for sure..
AAA The Power You Can Trust!
Agree TESA tapes are very good.
What's the real chance of both of those sensors going at once? Not getting a great feeling from that.
Good service, fair pricing except for the parts. I would guess you charged 4 hours labor, approx $450 and $600 for parts.
Total labor time's a little over an hour. $700 in parts
Took you longer to install the friggin door panels than it took to replace the sensors! :O
How does the assembly line install the same part in an instant?
I'm guessing you also do work on powersports by the way you spin those t-handles? Thanks for being ambassador for a tough industry
I had the exact issue (with the metal clips for the window squeegee/felt wiper) with my 2018 Sierra 1500 when I swapped out my mirrors for trailer mirrors.
What a PISSER!
I agree, Eric. Dumbest idea!
Had me shaking my head trying to understand the logic behind the design.
Those clips and panels are just like the Malibu. But they say to just remove them, put them on the door with the rubber and then snap the panel in place
Great job!
Eric, you should have cut the wires one at a time. Friend of mine did that and the air bags went off, consider yourself lucky. Good work, always watch your work, I learn a lot from you.
Interesting that air bags went off. The newer cars airbag module has quite a bit of guard logic that would prevent this from occurring. The car wasn't moving so the air bags going off seems like a extremely unlikely event. I qualified air bag controller chips for the Japanese and Ford automotive and testing the chips was a nightmare because of the guard logic. Remember the movie Iron Eagle where he was using the guns on the ground? Yea, thats impossible too with weight on wheels.... aircraft munitions will not go off with weight on wheels.... tons of logic control there as well.......
He did cut them 1 at a time go back and watch again.
Also in the first video he tested the circuit by shorting it out. And explained his reasons for doing that without worry.