Time lapsed video of me revalving my 2002 cr250r for a 135 pound enduro/off road rider. I already had swapped out the springs for some lighter .38 kg/mm springs but those made no difference in stiffness. Revalving did.
Ugh I hate filing the peening off of suspension nuts! Nice job on the install man, it's crazy how different the race tech valving is from stock! Did the valving, gold valves, threadlocker, and nut all come as part of a kit? Oh and did you revalve it for offroad? As always great video man! You should have way more subs.
Thanks Peter! Yea, the kit came with the valves, shims, and thread locker, but you have to reuse the nuts. And yea i did it for off road-- it's way better. There's an online calculator where you put in your weight and what type of riding you do, and it suggests a shim stack sequence and oil amount. But you have to buy the kit to access the calculator. I don't think the valve makes much of a difference, i think it's all in the shims.
Yea, if I knew what shim stack to use for my weight and riding style I would just do that rather than order the gold valve. I think the valve itself is much less consequential than the shim stack.
Wow this videos is so detailed and now I know I don’t need any special tool to re valve . Thanks for the awesome video now I feel like I can do it on my own
Just curious how the Race Tech valves and re-shimmed forks worked compared to stock? Hard to believe five 20x.1 face shims give an overall plush ride. I have the same Showa 47U forks (Gen 1 off a 2000 CR250) on my trimmed down XR650L and have revalved the base valves a couple of times. Stock valving was the same as yours. I CNC machined my own valves. Ride is pretty good overall until I hit those small square edged bumps where they rattle my teeth. My current shims: 20x.1(2), 18x.1, 10x.1, 16x.1, 12x.1,9x.1, 8x.2 (bending shim). Mid valve is stock. I have minimized stiction and am very anal about suspension rebuilds and check every part for wear and straightness, etc. I am still wanting to get ride of the high speed spike hit. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thx
It's definitely not plush and wouldn't work if you're looking for a slow, technical, off road set up. But it's also much less harsh than it was stock and I think it works well on fast single track & woods which is my favorite type of riding. I'd love to experiment with other shim variations but it's too much trouble to disassemble them so I can't offer advice. Soon I'm gonna be rebuilding the entire bike and maybe then i'll remove a couple 20x shims to see if that gives good low-speed compliance. In this build I used 2.5W oil in one fork and 5w in the other. From now on I'll just use 2.5W in both. See what the suspension forums on Thumpertalk say.
It was a very small amount, I think 32 inch pounds. But you're right, I can't find it in the honda manual nor the racetech kit. I'll look a little deeper and if I find it I'll let you know.
What is the use of the change by the race tech compared to the series, what changes have you noticed, what is the behavior of the suspensions now, as has been your real experience, I await your prompt clarification, greetings.
The problem with the original valving is it's meant for riders that are about 35-40 pounds heavier than me, and it's designed for motocross racing, so it's very stiff. The change was that it now absorbs smaller, low speed bumps on the trails, and keeps the front end from bouncing up too much.
@@Mario14792 You mean the rebound valve? I don't think that's as important. Compression is the key. But you may not even need to change the valve. You just need to change the shim stack, but you'll need to know what to use.
Ugh I hate filing the peening off of suspension nuts! Nice job on the install man, it's crazy how different the race tech valving is from stock! Did the valving, gold valves, threadlocker, and nut all come as part of a kit? Oh and did you revalve it for offroad? As always great video man! You should have way more subs.
Thanks Peter! Yea, the kit came with the valves, shims, and thread locker, but you have to reuse the nuts. And yea i did it for off road-- it's way better. There's an online calculator where you put in your weight and what type of riding you do, and it suggests a shim stack sequence and oil amount. But you have to buy the kit to access the calculator. I don't think the valve makes much of a difference, i think it's all in the shims.
@@madmarc would you suggest just redoing the stock shims instead?
Yea, if I knew what shim stack to use for my weight and riding style I would just do that rather than order the gold valve. I think the valve itself is much less consequential than the shim stack.
Wow this videos is so detailed and now I know I don’t need any special tool to re valve . Thanks for the awesome video now I feel like I can do it on my own
Man there's wayyyyy more to a revalve then I thought there was lol
Now I gotta try it myself
It's not so bad!
This video gives me the confidence to do it myself, whether thats good or bad i guess ill see...
How did it go?
@@madmarc went great! way better than before. really an easy process.
Just curious how the Race Tech valves and re-shimmed forks worked compared to stock? Hard to believe five 20x.1 face shims give an overall plush ride. I have the same Showa 47U forks (Gen 1 off a 2000 CR250) on my trimmed down XR650L and have revalved the base valves a couple of times. Stock valving was the same as yours. I CNC machined my own valves. Ride is pretty good overall until I hit those small square edged bumps where they rattle my teeth. My current shims: 20x.1(2), 18x.1, 10x.1, 16x.1, 12x.1,9x.1, 8x.2 (bending shim). Mid valve is stock. I have minimized stiction and am very anal about suspension rebuilds and check every part for wear and straightness, etc. I am still wanting to get ride of the high speed spike hit. Any suggestions would be appreciated. thx
It's definitely not plush and wouldn't work if you're looking for a slow, technical, off road set up. But it's also much less harsh than it was stock and I think it works well on fast single track & woods which is my favorite type of riding. I'd love to experiment with other shim variations but it's too much trouble to disassemble them so I can't offer advice. Soon I'm gonna be rebuilding the entire bike and maybe then i'll remove a couple 20x shims to see if that gives good low-speed compliance. In this build I used 2.5W oil in one fork and 5w in the other. From now on I'll just use 2.5W in both.
See what the suspension forums on Thumpertalk say.
second to none
What racetech kit did you use Fmgv 3423c ?
Looking to get them thanks
I think they only make one kit for each model, the kit you cited is for a CRF. So just look up the kit for your bike on www.racetech.com/
Did you have a hard time getting the upper unit slid back into the cartridge? Really struggling here.
You have to use a bit of force. Use your body weight and palm to squeeze it in there
Hi! Have you tried Gold Valve in enduro, how does it feel? I see that it is mainly used in motocross.
I only use it in enduro. The valve works as well as the stock valve. The benefit is really from the shim stack.
@@madmarc thanks! )
Forgot about pelican🤘🤘
What torque did you use for the damper nut that had the peening? I'm about to do this job and can't find a spec.
Thanks
It was a very small amount, I think 32 inch pounds. But you're right, I can't find it in the honda manual nor the racetech kit. I'll look a little deeper and if I find it I'll let you know.
It's 25 inch pounds (not 32). I found it on the webpage where you put in your code and it gives you your shim stack.
Thanks man, that's awesome 👌
What is the use of the change by the race tech compared to the series, what changes have you noticed, what is the behavior of the suspensions now, as has been your real experience, I await your prompt clarification, greetings.
The problem with the original valving is it's meant for riders that are about 35-40 pounds heavier than me, and it's designed for motocross racing, so it's very stiff. The change was that it now absorbs smaller, low speed bumps on the trails, and keeps the front end from bouncing up too much.
@@madmarc Do you think the race tech extension piston is necessary for the fork? Or the compression piston is the most important, what do you think?
@@Mario14792 You mean the rebound valve? I don't think that's as important. Compression is the key. But you may not even need to change the valve. You just need to change the shim stack, but you'll need to know what to use.
@@madmarc Do you know any website, etc., where to buy race tech products at a good price?, Where you bought it.
@@Mario14792 I think I bought the kit on ebay.
How does it work with progressive spring? Thank you
Hey Alex, what do you mean?
It looks like you filed on the inner diameter when removing the peening. If you did in fact do that, you fked up big time.
na man im not that stupid. i sprayed the shavings out from the other side with brake cleaner.