Drip edge and Gutter Apron are 2 different materials for 2 different locations. Drip edge is for Gable/rake sides of roofs and Gutter Apron is for the aeve/gutter sides. Gutter Apron runs down and into the gutters.
I think you're supposed to pull/bend the drip edge further out to eliminate surface tension. That way the water will stick to the drip edge and fall into the gutter rather than go behind the gutter to your fascia board.
Bern reading comments to this issue the problem is that it can become a problem at some time by pulling out the drip edge to tuck some of the gutter behind it being that when stong winds that the force of winds likely be rock the gutters back n forth which is putting stress on the drip edge then working shingles loose having to repair shingles eventually, only solution is to get some metal flashing painted if desired then tuck it up under the drip edge then screw in brackets against the metal flashing, more work but would save the wood in long run.
I’m installing my hangers behind the drip edge. The drip edge must be unobstructed, and intact (not punctured with screws/nails at the fascia) …. I’ve was told that’s by Roofing Code. When I have a run longer than six foot, I’ll attach/mount 1 or more 1x1s under the soffit, to hold-up the entire length of the gutter. I’ll have marked my 16 or 18 inch markings on the inside lip of the gutter, pre-placed my hangers, and then put the gutter up on my 1x1s, twisting to get the hanger clip UNDER/BEHIND that drip edge, leaving the exposed screw. I over shoot my edges by at least an inch, meaning I have to cut the drip edge with a grinder.
The drip edge goes in front of the gutters. You have bend them forward so they stick out about a finger's thickness. You cannot keep the drip edge how you have it or you WILL have rot issues.. not a matter of if.. but when.
@@TheRainHarvester You don't. You're supposed to pull that drip edge forward. The drip edge is not supposed to be flat against the fascia. It's supposed to be away from the fascia about a 1/4 inch so water drips into the gutter away from the fascia.
@@mr.boniato6402 My question is about the hanger/bracket. Usually the bracket clips to the back of the gutter. But if the drip edge is in the way, you can't screw in.
Drip edge should not be hard up against the fascia. If it is hard up then bend it away to leave about a 1/4” gap before you mount the gutter. Mount the gutter below the drip edge.
This is exactly my scenario. They installed these hidden hangers on my roof that already had those same drip edge. Now I have leaks between the gutter and the fascia in a lot of places.
So the hangers should be installed under the drip edge? I looked at how my neighbors gutters are installed and they screwed the hangers right through the drip edge. Im not sure if that is right or wrong, but he had a gutter install service install his.
Problem is that i have seen 90 percent of the drip edge is installed wrong, it should be off the fascia board 1/4' or about your pinky finger width off the fascia. This way you can install the gutters correctly using those hangers
That's wrong. A 1/4 inch off the fascia board is used when there is no gutter being used. The back of gutter is supposed to behind drip edge. The issue is the hangers are designed to clip on to the back of gutter but they don't work with drip edge
@@jheiny1231yes they will. Done it for almost 23 years now. Personally i don't like that style of clip but they will work. More expensive than buying hangers and screws separate.
If the drip edge is brown with the drip white paint on it. Then what is the apron that is supposed to be on the fasica board. The drip edge I thought was suppose to be on the edge of the house that has no gutter. Am I wrong?
What if you slid the drip edge over the top of the clip and it touches the screw and then use a polyurethane caulk so water doesn’t penetrate through the screw into the wood
The drip edge is NOT for keeping the water from going into the facia wood. It's to cause water to DRIP off of it into the gutter without adhering to it and causing it to run against the facia at all. If you make your kitchen faucet produce a thin stream and touch it, it will curl backward, it's that affect a drip edge is meant to destroy.
I has some morons do my gutters, I hate moron gutters. I had to tear mine down and put them back up to get the back of the gutter behind the drip edge.
drip edge needs bent out more . I just decided since Iwas putting on a new roof to get 6 inch gutters and they are great . Drip edge is bent out and my house is 100 feet long . Ice and water shield on whole roof and new shingles and gutters cost me 11 thousand dollars . Plus all new custom bent drip edge , not the cheap garbage you buy in lowes or home depot that has almost no drop and no decent drip edge
I honestly think this is a good idea. I’ve had a couple gutter I’ve installed myself and knowing the fact that one side must be higher in order to get the right slope, u deal with this issue where the edging is. I’ve tried tucking the screw under the edging but it can only go up so high . Thumbs up bro . Question do u put those hangers at every 16” ? Or even when there is a fascia is there a certain distance u should have them @??
How is he supposed to tuck the rain gutter back lip under the drip edge with the end cap ? Either cut vertically on the endcap so it too can slide under or cut a relief cut in the corner of the drip edge at the 90 degree bend around the corner, or a relief cut in the rain gutter to tuck it?
Honestly I just try getting that gutter under the drip edge as much as I possibly can while maintaining a pitch. I mean don't just crap it way way up lol never had any issues.
You have exposed fascia wood, and incorrectly installed gutter hangers. Water will get into those screws and rot the wood. Just pull the drip edge away from the fascia and put the gutter hangers under it. That's why the hangers have that gap there towards the back. Admittedly all the gutters on my house are like this, I've made some repairs and while I was there corrected the gutter hangers. But honestly they've been like that for probably at least 20 years, so I'm looking at major repairs to the fascia boards. I'm no expert, but the number one rule in roofing is to shed water and protect fasteners. I think the reality is that the drip edge should be installed with 1/2" or better space between it and the fascia. That would allow room under it for gutter hardware and would prevent any water wicking up to the fascia.
The gutter hangers that are supposed to clip on the back of gutter is useless. You need a drip edge. A 1/4 inch spacing of drip edge off fascia is only permitted when not using gutter. The other issue with them clips and most others is that when rain water is coming off roof it hits the screw and then water travels down screw then back of gutter and fascia
@@madmanmapper i heard of some clips having some type of rubber grommet. But I use silicone around screw penetration. I used to build garages . And do the roof and gutters. I'm not strictly a gutter guy. There mite be some hangers out there that are "perfect ". But the ones that are readily available at local stores and box stores are def not the perfect ones
@@jheiny1231 Silicone sounds good. So then how do you hang the gutters? Hanger screwed on top of the drip edge? Behind? Under? Do you use gutter spikes instead?
@@madmanmapper hanger screwed in the face of drip edge. Then gutter. The backside of gutter needs to be behind drip edge. Or gutter apron. Gutter flashing. Whatever your using. The only downfall is your puncturing holes with the screws from the hangers. There's no way around it. Silicone for insurance
U could have put the rain gutter below the drip edge. Then you could have used a piece of straight metal flashing as an extension. Put it under the drip edge / and over the rain gutter. Ur drip edge looks short / the capillary action may wick water into your house. Perhaps using a little sealer under the drip edge would make it 100. But good u got it tucked.
I asked that question to a professional and he just drills right through it to The metal and then into the wood. The biggest change I did as I don’t buy those hangers from Home Depot. They used to carry a good quality hanger. But not anymore. I had to special order good hangers from Amazon. These week ones they sell at Home Depot and Lowe’s will bend and crushing easily when you put a ladder up against it rain gutter
@@glenndunlap I put up some gutters today, and the best, simplest, way is exactly how you have done it here. Just keep the whole bracket inside the gutter and drill thru the drip edge. Looks and works just fine. One caution, depending on the run length of your gutter, just make sure you start high enough such that the low end is still behind the drip edge. Seems obvious but I've seen a few disasters on TH-cam from folks who didn't think that thru first. Thx Glenn, appreciate you giving me the idea!
@@buzzloudly Unfortunately I definitely did not keep everything behind the drip edge. I’ll have to get up there this weekend and take a look and see if there’s any way to repair that. I have so much garbage that comes down from this flowering tree that I had to put a lot of down the gradient so it would wash all the trash out each time it rains. And I’m afraid I did not do what you’re suggesting. Shoot.
@@glenndunlap Should be a relatively easy fix, hope it works out for ya Glenn. I was trying to think of a better method to get the downslope angle perfect on every gutter section without using a level. If you trust the fascia is straight and level...in my case it is because I built it :) just calculate the total drop you want and measure up from the bottom of the fascia to the bottom of the gutter to set the angle at any given point on the run. This worked perfectly for me today. Tomorrow I'm going to try a chalk line...probably even easier. Other than confirming you're going downhill, levels alone are the worst tool for this job IMHO.
One other thought, wondering if it might be better to stick with whatever the code is in your area for your gutter slope and find an effective gutter screen to address the debris issue? I'm going to have the same problem shortly.
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Drip edge and Gutter Apron are 2 different materials for 2 different locations. Drip edge is for Gable/rake sides of roofs and Gutter Apron is for the aeve/gutter sides. Gutter Apron runs down and into the gutters.
Working on gutters and drip edges right now. I appreciate the advice
I think you're supposed to pull/bend the drip edge further out to eliminate surface tension. That way the water will stick to the drip edge and fall into the gutter rather than go behind the gutter to your fascia board.
That does help but we pull it to make sure the back of the gutter can slide behind. Even a qrtr in will keep your fascia dry.
Bern reading comments to this issue the problem is that it can become a problem at some time by pulling out the drip edge to tuck some of the gutter behind it being that when stong winds that the force of winds likely be rock the gutters back n forth which is putting stress on the drip edge then working shingles loose having to repair shingles eventually, only solution is to get some metal flashing painted if desired then tuck it up under the drip edge then screw in brackets against the metal flashing, more work but would save the wood in long run.
I’m installing my hangers behind the drip edge. The drip edge must be unobstructed, and intact (not punctured with screws/nails at the fascia) …. I’ve was told that’s by Roofing Code. When I have a run longer than six foot, I’ll attach/mount 1 or more 1x1s under the soffit, to hold-up the entire length of the gutter. I’ll have marked my 16 or 18 inch markings on the inside lip of the gutter, pre-placed my hangers, and then put the gutter up on my 1x1s, twisting to get the hanger clip UNDER/BEHIND that drip edge, leaving the exposed screw. I over shoot my edges by at least an inch, meaning I have to cut the drip edge with a grinder.
The drip edge goes in front of the gutters. You have bend them forward so they stick out about a finger's thickness. You cannot keep the drip edge how you have it or you WILL have rot issues.. not a matter of if.. but when.
How do you screw in the hanger of the drip edge is in front?
@@TheRainHarvester You don't. You're supposed to pull that drip edge forward. The drip edge is not supposed to be flat against the fascia. It's supposed to be away from the fascia about a 1/4 inch so water drips into the gutter away from the fascia.
@@mr.boniato6402 My question is about the hanger/bracket. Usually the bracket clips to the back of the gutter. But if the drip edge is in the way, you can't screw in.
@@mr.boniato6402 (you can't move the drip edge over the gutter because the bracket/hanger is in the way)
Drip edge should not be hard up against the fascia. If it is hard up then bend it away to leave about a 1/4” gap before you mount the gutter. Mount the gutter below the drip edge.
This is exactly my scenario. They installed these hidden hangers on my roof that already had those same drip edge. Now I have leaks between the gutter and the fascia in a lot of places.
So the hangers should be installed under the drip edge? I looked at how my neighbors gutters are installed and they screwed the hangers right through the drip edge. Im not sure if that is right or wrong, but he had a gutter install service install his.
Problem is that i have seen 90 percent of the drip edge is installed wrong, it should be off the fascia board 1/4' or about your pinky finger width off the fascia. This way you can install the gutters correctly using those hangers
That's wrong. A 1/4 inch off the fascia board is used when there is no gutter being used. The back of gutter is supposed to behind drip edge. The issue is the hangers are designed to clip on to the back of gutter but they don't work with drip edge
@@jheiny1231yes they will. Done it for almost 23 years now. Personally i don't like that style of clip but they will work. More expensive than buying hangers and screws separate.
If the drip edge is brown with the drip white paint on it. Then what is the apron that is supposed to be on the fasica board. The drip edge I thought was suppose to be on the edge of the house that has no gutter. Am I wrong?
What if you slid the drip edge over the top of the clip and it touches the screw and then use a polyurethane caulk so water doesn’t penetrate through the screw into the wood
If you get the screw tight, surface tension will keep it out but could always go neoprene washers for peace of mind.
The drip edge is NOT for keeping the water from going into the facia wood.
It's to cause water to DRIP off of it into the gutter without adhering to it and causing it to run against the facia at all.
If you make your kitchen faucet produce a thin stream and touch it, it will curl backward, it's that affect a drip edge is meant to destroy.
I can see the facia wood on the low end of that gutter anyway
He should use a extra long piece of flat drip edge as an extension. Put it under the drip edge and over the gutter.
I has some morons do my gutters, I hate moron gutters. I had to tear mine down and put them back up to get the back of the gutter behind the drip edge.
drip edge needs bent out more . I just decided since Iwas putting on a new roof to get 6 inch gutters and they are great . Drip edge is bent out and my house is 100 feet long . Ice and water shield on whole roof and new shingles and gutters cost me 11 thousand dollars . Plus all new custom bent drip edge , not the cheap garbage you buy in lowes or home depot that has almost no drop and no decent drip edge
I honestly think this is a good idea. I’ve had a couple gutter I’ve installed myself and knowing the fact that one side must be higher in order to get the right slope, u deal with this issue where the edging is. I’ve tried tucking the screw under the edging but it can only go up so high . Thumbs up bro .
Question do u put those hangers at every 16” ? Or even when there is a fascia is there a certain distance u should have them @??
How is he supposed to tuck the rain gutter back lip under the drip edge with the end cap ? Either cut vertically on the endcap so it too can slide under or cut a relief cut in the corner of the drip edge at the 90 degree bend around the corner, or a relief cut in the rain gutter to tuck it?
Honestly I just try getting that gutter under the drip edge as much as I possibly can while maintaining a pitch. I mean don't just crap it way way up lol never had any issues.
good video glenn.
You have exposed fascia wood, and incorrectly installed gutter hangers. Water will get into those screws and rot the wood. Just pull the drip edge away from the fascia and put the gutter hangers under it. That's why the hangers have that gap there towards the back. Admittedly all the gutters on my house are like this, I've made some repairs and while I was there corrected the gutter hangers. But honestly they've been like that for probably at least 20 years, so I'm looking at major repairs to the fascia boards.
I'm no expert, but the number one rule in roofing is to shed water and protect fasteners. I think the reality is that the drip edge should be installed with 1/2" or better space between it and the fascia. That would allow room under it for gutter hardware and would prevent any water wicking up to the fascia.
The gutter hangers that are supposed to clip on the back of gutter is useless. You need a drip edge. A 1/4 inch spacing of drip edge off fascia is only permitted when not using gutter. The other issue with them clips and most others is that when rain water is coming off roof it hits the screw and then water travels down screw then back of gutter and fascia
@@jheiny1231 Yes. So what kind of hardware do you recommend, then?
@@madmanmapper i heard of some clips having some type of rubber grommet. But I use silicone around screw penetration. I used to build garages . And do the roof and gutters. I'm not strictly a gutter guy. There mite be some hangers out there that are "perfect ". But the ones that are readily available at local stores and box stores are def not the perfect ones
@@jheiny1231 Silicone sounds good. So then how do you hang the gutters? Hanger screwed on top of the drip edge? Behind? Under? Do you use gutter spikes instead?
@@madmanmapper hanger screwed in the face of drip edge. Then gutter. The backside of gutter needs to be behind drip edge. Or gutter apron. Gutter flashing. Whatever your using. The only downfall is your puncturing holes with the screws from the hangers. There's no way around it. Silicone for insurance
U could have put the rain gutter below the drip edge. Then you could have used a piece of straight metal flashing as an extension. Put it under the drip edge / and over the rain gutter. Ur drip edge looks short / the capillary action may wick water into your house. Perhaps using a little sealer under the drip edge would make it 100. But good u got it tucked.
for when the fascia is capped with metal
I'm having the same dilemma. What if you cut a notch in the drip edge and just slightly bend it up like a tab wherever there is a bracket?
I asked that question to a professional and he just drills right through it to The metal and then into the wood. The biggest change I did as I don’t buy those hangers from Home Depot. They used to carry a good quality hanger. But not anymore. I had to special order good hangers from Amazon. These week ones they sell at Home Depot and Lowe’s will bend and crushing easily when you put a ladder up against it rain gutter
@@glenndunlap I put up some gutters today, and the best, simplest, way is exactly how you have done it here. Just keep the whole bracket inside the gutter and drill thru the drip edge. Looks and works just fine. One caution, depending on the run length of your gutter, just make sure you start high enough such that the low end is still behind the drip edge. Seems obvious but I've seen a few disasters on TH-cam from folks who didn't think that thru first. Thx Glenn, appreciate you giving me the idea!
@@buzzloudly Unfortunately I definitely did not keep everything behind the drip edge. I’ll have to get up there this weekend and take a look and see if there’s any way to repair that. I have so much garbage that comes down from this flowering tree that I had to put a lot of down the gradient so it would wash all the trash out each time it rains. And I’m afraid I did not do what you’re suggesting. Shoot.
@@glenndunlap Should be a relatively easy fix, hope it works out for ya Glenn. I was trying to think of a better method to get the downslope angle perfect on every gutter section without using a level. If you trust the fascia is straight and level...in my case it is because I built it :) just calculate the total drop you want and measure up from the bottom of the fascia to the bottom of the gutter to set the angle at any given point on the run. This worked perfectly for me today. Tomorrow I'm going to try a chalk line...probably even easier. Other than confirming you're going downhill, levels alone are the worst tool for this job IMHO.
One other thought, wondering if it might be better to stick with whatever the code is in your area for your gutter slope and find an effective gutter screen to address the debris issue? I'm going to have the same problem shortly.
Riciculous gutter mounting system.
Common sense rules
Shouldn't use those hangers!
Excellent