I am an apprentice bespoke shirtmaker, everytime I want to feel alive I come back to this video, I definitely lost count of how many times I watch it. What Wil is doing is exactly what and how I want to do it, paying exaggerating attention to the tiniest details trying to get as close as possible to perfection.
Now that's the kind of guy i would get a shirt from just for the experience of the shirt fitting and working with someone like this who takes their work very seriously
This one of my favorites. I watch it every so often. Very relaxing, love this guy’s attention to detail and his very very obvious expertise at shirt making
When performing as task that is technical or requires many variables, small talk leads to errors and slows the process down. When the work is done, small talk is fine, but during is problematic.
@@monne53 Some people see lack of small talk as being "gruff" or unfriendly. I was pointing out that when doing something that requires lots of variables, chit chat causes mistakes. That is quite well documented. It may also be his character to be "quiet" or perhaps making a video would make him want to be more demure. In no way was I being critical, but explaining there are alternate explanations. Cheers.
Perfect description! Tbh the awkwardness is one of the things I love. Kirby has the content on point, but when I first found his channel (from ‘The Elegant Oxford’, who in turn I found from ‘Trenton and Heath’, who I found from ‘Rose Anvil’ - love diving into the TH-cam well!). I actually thought that it was satire, making fun of this world at first. I think it was a video about a hat, and the preview tile had Kirby with what looked like a cowboy hat, and a wonky grin. I thought ‘this deserves a view!’. Anyway, now I’m a convert, I love Kirby’s stuff, it’s content rich and he’s so sincere, charming and respectful, how can you not like him!! ‘Oblivion tier’ AMAZING!
This shirtmaker takes his job seriously...very knowledgeable. I have several custom made dress shirts and I would caution choosing the floating (or canvassed) collar/cuffs option. I did on my first couple shirts. The tailor kept suggesting fused as this tailor is suggesting to Kirby, but I resisted and choose floating canvas - bad move! I will only get well made fused collars on all my custom shirts in the future. The problem is they are a huge pain in the a** to get cleaned. You have to send them away to a special shirt cleaner to launder and press properly. Modern "local" cleaners do not have their equipment set up for this type of collar/cuffs and they get sharp pressed-in wrinkles that have to be hand pressed out (with extra cost) and still does not look as good as fused. Also the shirt presses that are used are not tuned heat wise to canvass interlinings which can cause other issues like shrinkage.
The quality and production of your videos is outstanding. I've been with you since you've had like 3,000 subscribers. You should have at least 300,000. You deserve many more as the Mr. Rogers of menswear and luxury items.
BibbityBop Thanks!! We put a lot into it, for sure. I’ve never been content with filming in front of a white backdrop of fake plants. 😉 Wish you could submit that comment to TH-cam so they’d suggest more of our videos! 😂
He should.. but because he's so awkward and annoying, and doesnt seem to make any attempts at rehearsing or scripting what he's going to talk about, it's going to be difficult for him to break through.
Talk about fluctuation in size, in mid life my size was the same for 10 years but in latter years after putting on some weight my size fluctuates every 6 months. It becomes aggravating as I loose weight and put it back but never loose it all. Really enjoyed the way the collar lays across the shoulder and also close to the neck without pulling away..didn’t notice if the collar was button down, my preference.
Fascinating to watch, Kirby. Fascinating. Great to watch skilled artisans who are passionate about their craft. Thanks for putting this video out there. Can't wait to see the final product.
@@Orlanzepol123 Most people do. if you stretch out your arms as far as you can while standing up you'll see that the fingertips on one of your arms will extend longer. Bodies aren't symmetrical. Granted, some people might have a bigger length difference between their arms and for some it might not even be noticeable. If you get your shoes measured with a Brannock device you'll also see that one of your feet is shorter than the other too.
Look forward to the un-boxing of this shirt! Also, would like to know more about the clubs that you belong to in London and NY. What are the benefits of joining?
Still there's a stupid follower on Wil's Instagram who said that wil hide his secrets. It was a real bespoke craftsman class for free on TH-cam. Thank you so much for share!!!
jeroem5 I believe Wil has a minimum first order of 3 shirts to help with the incredible amount of work that occurs on the front-end. As far as pricing, he is actually quite reasonable considering the detail. Wil has three different levels of pricing depending on the amount of hand finishing that goes into each shirt. Pattern making and fittings all the same, regardless of finish level.
Manny Freshh I heard £315 machine finished, £350 part hand finished, and £550 for completely hand finished. Not sure if the minimum order changes if you choose any of the three different levels.
totally...it is very important for him to imagine less wealthy people working at night like slaves for his own interest...cause he is probably a parvenu dreaming of being born with a golden spoon in his mouth.
Interesting in regards to the comment on darts. I wear an RTW brand that has zero darts and is shaped for fit. The fronts are flat so a not to disturb the pattern and the back is curved inwards around the waist, which can disturb the pattern a bit at the seam. Sometimes I buy a larger size to clear my chest and neck so that that I can wear a tie or for causal, I can size down because I would never do the collar button up or wear a tie on a casual shirt. The larger sized shirts need to be tailored in and my tailor does a new seam from the bottom up into the armpit, no darting. In regards to an RTW shirt being any good, if it fits... take it.
Mr. Allison first let me say thanks for sharing and allowing your subscribers into your personal realm to view the fitting of your bespoke shirt for me it was truly fascinating to see the process of bespoke shirt making unfold before my very eyes I certainly have a better appreciation and deeper understanding of what all is involved in a quality made shirt learning about the roll of the collar the collar height how it is important that the shirt remains laying next to your neck ease of movement proper sleeve length all work together in a well made shirt again thanks for this video!
No expert, however, looks smashing having the higher collar and looks right having it about the half way point. Can't wait until the four weeks over to see the wearable trial.
They looked about as comfortable with the weird eye stares--- as I don't know what. I'm watching this and I'm totally uncomfortable with it all. At least he took his jacket off, which was a huge surprise to me. I had expected him to stay fully dressed throughout the process.
What is your thought on going on a thicker fabric for the white shirt? Rather thick fabric for durability would be ideal in my opinion! Whats your take on it?
Great education Kirby, so thank you. Bravo for putting yourself in front of the camera and copping some strange, cruel and meaningless comments - it takes guts to do that. Being fitted for clothing is what it is, so I am not clear what some people think should be going on. Ignore the wankers and keep going with the good work you do.
Typically, you don't go through this process for just one shirt. Most people who get bespoke shirts made will get several shirts made by the same tailor.
Love the way your suit drapes btw! A question, how do you look after you suit? Do you ever wash the pants yourself? And when do you end up cleaning/Washing the jacket?
Arnold Arnoldsson I send my suits/trousers (and even my Charvet shirts) to Stu at Rave Fabricare when they need to be dry cleaned. Only person I trust.
How often do you have your tailored stuff sent off to get drycleaned etc? ANd how many wears do you put on a pair of pants/jacket before sending it off?
Kirby Allison Luca Avitabile of Napoli and Simone Abbarchi of Florence. I’m English myself but I prefer how the Italians structure their collars! How they are willing to make just one shirt if you wish and I think they are unbeatable at the price point. If you want a long sleeve Polo to work with a sport coat they can make a collar that doesn’t collapse under a jacket. They are stylish versatile and willing to listen to what the customer wants instead of talking down to him as I’ve experienced with off Row tailors. Generally Savile Row is so expensive that even people on six figure income baulk at the prices.
@@kirbyallison wil Whiting is not the best shirt tailor in the world.. Really stupid title. I get irked and exasperated when you so called Mens attire bloggers/influencers think they know how to cut and how things should really fit.. Wil Whiting does not make your shirts at all personally for you or for any customers..He has a team of sewing machinist, pattern cutters doing the hard work. He was some geeky city white collar worker who miraculously became a shirt maker and just travels the world with a tape measure and a pattern to hand. Im a Fashon designer and Tailor and I do all the hard work as a one man band. I drape on my customers the shirts as that's more accurate and follows the natural figuration of each customer. If you closely look at your wil Whiting shirt he's fitting on you, you can clearly see how unclean it is by the armscye at front and back and sleeve is dragging and not clean...His darts on the back is a quick and easy fix to shaping the back which is used in most off the peg shop manufactured shop shirts... You would not expect your jacket at back to have a dart!! I'm developing a centre back seam for shirts and a 2 piece sleeve or semi fitted sleeve that wil follow the natural angle from the elbow and a higher crown that will fit the arm better and more becoming than shirt sleeves like alll shirt makers use including wil Whitind which does not really look good on you.
16:40 It's a bit hard for me to make out, Is this collar fused or unfused?? I started making some of my own clothes a few years ago and these type of videos present so much information to help me take a step forward in my hobby. Thank you Kirby and Wil!
I enjoyed watching the tailor make adjustments, seeing his passion for his craft. Perhaps a different way of going about the video would be to show the alterations being made, and then have the tailor reflect on the type of adjustments, and reasons with his client in depth then? In some places it felt a little uncomfortable to watch, still enjoyable, and informative. I just found attention being diverted from the task to observations were a little distracting. I think the collar adjustment while on the client was such a lovely thing, and the collar height in the front in relation to his Adams apple ( not achievable on paper), it's the professional attention to detail that helps make a truly customized garment, which I am sure looks immaculate on completion! I need to watch the others in the series.
Kirby, what do you think of the rise of performance dress shirts? Shirts with elements like stretch, anti-odor/wrinkle, moisture wicking etc. I've had a few MTM performance shirts lately, usually something like a 97% cotton with a technical/stretch fabric. I like how they can be a lot more fitted and yet move with me whereas a 100% cotton usually must have extra space to move. I also like how I don't need to be as careful about keeping them in good condition as cleaning and pressing them isn't as crucial. Thanks for another great video. Wil is a legend.
krollic I’m a purest, so I could never do it. Well, I take that back, I do have one Mizzen + Main shirt that was a gift, and I will wear it when traveling with the family. That can pull, tug, etc and I’m not worrying about ruining an expensive shirt. I also have brothers that really can’t be bothered. They work in the car auction business, so they’re constantly in and outside, walking around, etc. They want to look smart for as little effort as possible. M+M works great for them.
Hi kirby! I have a question on bespoke shirts. How significant is the difference in a bespoke shirt compared to an off the rack shirt and a made to measure shirt. I only have made to measure shirts (and some off the rack) at this point. I'm wondering, a bespoke suit is definitely worth it if you can afford it because of the large number of parameters that determine the fit of a suit. In a shirt, you have fewer parameters to control to give the perfect it. How far is this true, and if it is, do you think a bespoke shirt (with starting prices at £150, compared to a Charles Tyrwhitt off the rack at £22.95) is worth the investment for someone just getting into fine meanswear?
I’d say that the difference is, indeed, less with a bespoke shirt. It primarily comes down to fit and styling. If you can find a RTW or MTM shirt that fits you well and you’re happy with styling details, then save the money. I’ve always had my shirts made. Beginning with MyTailor, which is a very high-end MTM program. Full selection of fabrics, great prices, and I could have them made to my particular preferences. I then went to Charvet. Primarily because of the experience. Charvet is one-of-a-kind. A sartorial pilgrimage. Their work is masterful and I appreciate and admire the craftsmanship every time I wear one (I’m wearing one today). Very expensive, but for me worth it. I’ve got other friends that are equally good dressers as I that are happy to wear Charles Trywhitt. They fit good enough, all he wears is white, and the prices is right.
Sou do Brasil, gosto muito do seu canal,os produtos são maravilhosos , meu sonho é ter um terno de alfaiataria dessa qualidade e requinte,no Brasil é muito caro.Muito mesmo.os sapatos são lindos não vejo por aqui.um abração Kirbyallisom.
Oh thank goodness for that! I saw that it was going to be shown last night, came back to the iPad and all mention of the video had gone! Now I can watch and enjoy with my breakfast! Thanks for the explanation with the name change Kirby, I must admit a few times I was searching for hanger project hoping it had not been deleted!
The watch was slightly troubling. He appears very sharp and proper, but the watch is a little weighty. I imagine a Tank Louis would suit him a lot more, especially in white metal.
Well done..he really does great work & very knowledgeable....thankyou kirby for your tour's & channel, absolutely luv it !! ...i live in Vancouver Canada & sumas Washington /Seattle....sure would luv to make my way to london/france/italy ...would be a great bespoke tour for my boys & i, again thanks... ""here here"" ""well done well done indeed'" !!👍✌🇬🇧🇺🇸🇨🇦👍✌!!
So having one leg or arm longer than the other. It’s usually a spine issue. For example I always go to a chiropractor before I get measured because I had several incidents where one arm was longer one time. The next time my right was longer. Now if you’ve had fractures or a rotator injury you may be permanently longer on one arm being it won’t reattach exactly how you were born.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I am an apprentice bespoke shirtmaker, everytime I want to feel alive I come back to this video, I definitely lost count of how many times I watch it. What Wil is doing is exactly what and how I want to do it, paying exaggerating attention to the tiniest details trying to get as close as possible to perfection.
Where are you based Richertson?
I am really new to the sartorial world, but heard that ralph lauren purple label is really good and up there with the best - is that true?
Now that's the kind of guy i would get a shirt from just for the experience of the shirt fitting and working with someone like this who takes their work very seriously
This one of my favorites. I watch it every so often. Very relaxing, love this guy’s attention to detail and his very very obvious expertise at shirt making
Wil is a personal friend of mine. This is no act, he is deadly serious about the things he loves. Top bloke.
Yes, Will is an incredible guy. He certainly brings an incredible level of attention and detail to all of his work.
Ok great. Now would you mind posting his number and/or do you know if he’s straight or gay?
@@Mrbrbusby I obviously wont give his number out but he is definitely straight. I used to live with him and met a couple of his gfs.
This guy was not interested in small talk at all. Lol....
When performing as task that is technical or requires many variables, small talk leads to errors and slows the process down. When the work is done, small talk is fine, but during is problematic.
dee 0 proves what a pro the guy his keeping his mind on the task and not letting the non expert ,try and talking whilst he as his job to do
Parts of it, he probably just wanted him to be quiet and let him do his job.
@@wylieecoyote i don't agree. we see in this channel lots of professional doing a great job despite small talk
@@monne53 Some people see lack of small talk as being "gruff" or unfriendly. I was pointing out that when doing something that requires lots of variables, chit chat causes mistakes. That is quite well documented. It may also be his character to be "quiet" or perhaps making a video would make him want to be more demure. In no way was I being critical, but explaining there are alternate explanations. Cheers.
Оblivion tier dialogue for the opening.
Hilarious. Very intimate staring aswell.
Perfect description! Tbh the awkwardness is one of the things I love. Kirby has the content on point, but when I first found his channel (from ‘The Elegant Oxford’, who in turn I found from ‘Trenton and Heath’, who I found from ‘Rose Anvil’ - love diving into the TH-cam well!). I actually thought that it was satire, making fun of this world at first. I think it was a video about a hat, and the preview tile had Kirby with what looked like a cowboy hat, and a wonky grin. I thought ‘this deserves a view!’. Anyway, now I’m a convert, I love Kirby’s stuff, it’s content rich and he’s so sincere, charming and respectful, how can you not like him!! ‘Oblivion tier’ AMAZING!
@@alexjohnstonjohnston5374 he has the slight vibe that I get off of Charles Boyle from Brooklyn 99! He’s just Charles elegant cousin Kirby boyle!
@@alexjohnstonjohnston5374 wait.. do you mean this isnt satire???
What is oblivion tier?? I really want to know!
This shirtmaker takes his job seriously...very knowledgeable. I have several custom made dress shirts and I would caution choosing the floating (or canvassed) collar/cuffs option. I did on my first couple shirts. The tailor kept suggesting fused as this tailor is suggesting to Kirby, but I resisted and choose floating canvas - bad move! I will only get well made fused collars on all my custom shirts in the future.
The problem is they are a huge pain in the a** to get cleaned. You have to send them away to a special shirt cleaner to launder and press properly. Modern "local" cleaners do not have their equipment set up for this type of collar/cuffs and they get sharp pressed-in wrinkles that have to be hand pressed out (with extra cost) and still does not look as good as fused. Also the shirt presses that are used are not tuned heat wise to canvass interlinings which can cause other issues like shrinkage.
The outcome is exceptional. Your collaboration helps us all in understanding bespoke and adjusting our expectations. Thank you, sincerely!
The quality and production of your videos is outstanding. I've been with you since you've had like 3,000 subscribers. You should have at least 300,000. You deserve many more as the Mr. Rogers of menswear and luxury items.
BibbityBop Thanks!! We put a lot into it, for sure. I’ve never been content with filming in front of a white backdrop of fake plants. 😉 Wish you could submit that comment to TH-cam so they’d suggest more of our videos! 😂
He should.. but because he's so awkward and annoying, and doesnt seem to make any attempts at rehearsing or scripting what he's going to talk about, it's going to be difficult for him to break through.
@killwill83 😂
Such a weird first 37seconds
Made me think that fancy bespoke gay porn could really be a thing.
That attempt to fit in.
@fifthof LMAO
Not scripted 😂
Vitor Roma it is look up suited men...
It starts like a porn movie.
Omg i was just thinking that!! He was staring into his soul!! He wanted the man meat!
Let’s start with the “fitting”
But there's no soap !
:))))))))))))
:))
Talk about fluctuation in size, in mid life my size was the same for 10 years but in latter years after putting on some weight my size fluctuates every 6 months. It becomes aggravating as I loose weight and put it back but never loose it all. Really enjoyed the way the collar lays across the shoulder and also close to the neck without pulling away..didn’t notice if the collar was button down, my preference.
Wil's shirt fits insanely well. Good lord.
It's beautiful, but very tight fitting. Look at the darts in the lower back. If he were to gain ten pounds it would break open.
@@steventrosiek2623 good reason to stay in shape then haha
Thats incredible amount of detail for a shirt. I get my shirt tailored but this is amazing. Great content once again.
Wil certainly takes it to another level.
Fascinating to watch, Kirby. Fascinating. Great to watch skilled artisans who are passionate about their craft. Thanks for putting this video out there. Can't wait to see the final product.
Wil is, indeed, incredibly passionate.
There’s just something about this whole thing.
Love it.
Kirby, are you doing a video showing the finished shirt(s)?
Very impressive, personal, pleasant to follow for enthusiasts.
31:49 - interesting handshake
freemasons.
My assessment is Kirby has a neck like a giraffe
Ramapo River Yeah! It’s been confirmed he has one arm shorter than the other and one foot shorter than the other. Poor guy 😂
@@Orlanzepol123 Most people do. if you stretch out your arms as far as you can while standing up you'll see that the fingertips on one of your arms will extend longer. Bodies aren't symmetrical. Granted, some people might have a bigger length difference between their arms and for some it might not even be noticeable. If you get your shoes measured with a Brannock device you'll also see that one of your feet is shorter than the other too.
KIRBY ALLISON I have a question for you my name is Jason my question is how do you put on a suit jacket and take it off
This just popped up on my YT channel. I'm wearing one of my button downs from Wil right now while watching this!
reuven lax Awesome!
Same cuffs as well - conical two button.
Look forward to the un-boxing of this shirt! Also, would like to know more about the clubs that you belong to in London and NY. What are the benefits of joining?
Jeff Brogan me too! Thanks!
Showing off and being pretentious
The work involved in a bespoke shirt making is alot more than I imagined. Well I wait for my lottery numbers to come in lol. 🤣
Yeah...no kidding 👍🇬🇧🇨🇦🇺🇸👍
Still there's a stupid follower on Wil's Instagram who said that wil hide his secrets. It was a real bespoke craftsman class for free on TH-cam. Thank you so much for share!!!
Free... no, but craftsman class, yes.
How much does Wil charge for a bespoke shirt? And what's the minimum order?
jeroem5 I believe Wil has a minimum first order of 3 shirts to help with the incredible amount of work that occurs on the front-end. As far as pricing, he is actually quite reasonable considering the detail. Wil has three different levels of pricing depending on the amount of hand finishing that goes into each shirt. Pattern making and fittings all the same, regardless of finish level.
@@kirbyallison :)
Kirby Allison ballpark price?
Manny Freshh I heard £315 machine finished, £350 part hand finished, and £550 for completely hand finished. Not sure if the minimum order changes if you choose any of the three different levels.
@@grahammorgan1 that's reasonable..
Best part of the video 26:16 “And you sew these fittings together yourself? Yes. “late at night” lol
totally...it is very important for him to imagine less wealthy people working at night like slaves for his own interest...cause he is probably a parvenu dreaming of being born with a golden spoon in his mouth.
Nice collar, Elvis.
His neck is so long you could stack a second collar on top of that one. You could call it the Sopwith Camel Collar.
Wacko Banana-Pants haha
Interesting in regards to the comment on darts. I wear an RTW brand that has zero darts and is shaped for fit. The fronts are flat so a not to disturb the pattern and the back is curved inwards around the waist, which can disturb the pattern a bit at the seam. Sometimes I buy a larger size to clear my chest and neck so that that I can wear a tie or for causal, I can size down because I would never do the collar button up or wear a tie on a casual shirt.
The larger sized shirts need to be tailored in and my tailor does a new seam from the bottom up into the armpit, no darting.
In regards to an RTW shirt being any good, if it fits... take it.
Mr. Allison first let me say thanks for sharing and allowing your subscribers into your personal realm to view the fitting of your bespoke shirt for me it was truly fascinating to see the process of bespoke shirt making unfold before my very eyes I certainly have a better appreciation and deeper understanding of what all is involved in a quality made shirt learning about the roll of the collar the collar height how it is important that the shirt remains laying next to your neck ease of movement proper sleeve length all work together in a well made shirt again thanks for this video!
I’m getting some Tom Ford vibes from Wil! Awesome video as always, you outdid yourself once again with this production.
Wil's suit is the unsung hero of this video. Chittleborough & Morgan, maybe Michael Browne?
I would like to know where Wil Whiting got his suit from???
No expert, however, looks smashing having the higher collar and looks right having it about the half way point.
Can't wait until the four weeks over to see the wearable trial.
Neither can I!
Love Wil’s work.
You love Willy
What is the background music!?!? Love this stuff
Such a work of art. A real skill.
Very nice 2-tone Cartier Santos on Wil's wrist.
I cant handle all the eye contact and I’m not even there
They looked about as comfortable with the weird eye stares--- as I don't know what.
I'm watching this and I'm totally uncomfortable with it all.
At least he took his jacket off, which was a huge surprise to me. I had expected him to stay fully dressed throughout the process.
What is your thought on going on a thicker fabric for the white shirt? Rather thick fabric for durability would be ideal in my opinion! Whats your take on it?
Also the thicker fabrics function is for it to not look as "See through" in a sense. If youg et what im refering to.
@@arnoldarnoldsson9572 i recall him talking about thickness of shirts in his video with angel about shirts
masterfully, looking forward to see the finished shirt
Gerry Gallagher Me too! Should receive it before the end of the year!
7:30 the matrix
@Eyeswideshut Hey glad you enjoyed it! I forgot why I commented that, then watched again...now im cracking up laughing myself :).
Looks great. What’s price range for his bespoke shirts?
I love Wil's suit even more than his shirts. Do we know who his tailor is?
So how does a bespoke shirt tie in with changing body shape - getting a gut and getting chunky around the arms and waist?
i am well impressed with Will's shirt
Great education Kirby, so thank you. Bravo for putting yourself in front of the camera and copping some strange, cruel and meaningless comments - it takes guts to do that. Being fitted for clothing is what it is, so I am not clear what some people think should be going on. Ignore the wankers and keep going with the good work you do.
Excellent video. Enjoyed every second.
probably impossible to say who the best is, there are many good shirtmakers excelling in different aspects.
Question is how much does that shirt cost
If you have to ask, you can't afford it.
$235
@@pfbuck1930 such a silly thing to say.
My boss, who had about $3.5B, was as penny conscious as they came!
Charvet is a great shirtmaker in Paris. So is Turnbull and Asser in London
Brilliant as always Kirby. Please go get your hair sorted though!!
My dude! Love the chanel homie.
I really couldn't be bothered going to all this effort for a shirt. A suit or a pair of shoes yes but not a shirt. Multiple meetings? nah.
Typically, you don't go through this process for just one shirt. Most people who get bespoke shirts made will get several shirts made by the same tailor.
@@xjunkxyrdxdog89 Still not worth it for me. Plenty off the shelf nice shirts will fit Kirbys frame very nicely
Love the way your suit drapes btw! A question, how do you look after you suit? Do you ever wash the pants yourself? And when do you end up cleaning/Washing the jacket?
Arnold Arnoldsson I send my suits/trousers (and even my Charvet shirts) to Stu at Rave Fabricare when they need to be dry cleaned. Only person I trust.
Meaning you dont EVER wash your jacket nor pants on your own?
Arnold Arnoldsson No... not any of my tailored stuff.
How often do you have your tailored stuff sent off to get drycleaned etc? ANd how many wears do you put on a pair of pants/jacket before sending it off?
I have no idea how people can bespoke one size. I fluctuate size throughout the year plus I'm working on getting larger.
daniel holden Or they prefer to keep themselves in shape.
@@Hypee559 or they have enough money to keep changing their wardrobe
@@tibchy144 Most people buying bespoke anything are not interested in buying repeats of the same thing.
@@Hypee559 so according to your statement a gentleman only needs one white shirt?
Some people actually have "offseason" shirts specifically when they are bulked and when they are cut.
I live in London but get my shirts made bespoke or MTM by traveling Italian tailors.
Yobo Lion The Italians have a totally different aesthetic. Who do you use?
Kirby Allison Luca Avitabile of Napoli and Simone Abbarchi of Florence. I’m English myself but I prefer how the Italians structure their collars! How they are willing to make just one shirt if you wish and I think they are unbeatable at the price point. If you want a long sleeve Polo to work with a sport coat they can make a collar that doesn’t collapse under a jacket. They are stylish versatile and willing to listen to what the customer wants instead of talking down to him as I’ve experienced with off Row tailors. Generally Savile Row is so expensive that even people on six figure income baulk at the prices.
Yobo Lion Emma willis, turnbull & asser make nice bespoke shirts in London
@@kirbyallison wil Whiting is not the best shirt tailor in the world.. Really stupid title. I get irked and exasperated when you so called Mens attire bloggers/influencers think they know how to cut and how things should really fit.. Wil Whiting does not make your shirts at all personally for you or for any customers..He has a team of sewing machinist, pattern cutters doing the hard work. He was some geeky city white collar worker who miraculously became a shirt maker and just travels the world with a tape measure and a pattern to hand.
Im a Fashon designer and Tailor and I do all the hard work as a one man band. I drape on my customers the shirts as that's more accurate and follows the natural figuration of each customer.
If you closely look at your wil Whiting shirt he's fitting on you, you can clearly see how unclean it is by the armscye at front and back and sleeve is dragging and not clean...His darts on the back is a quick and easy fix to shaping the back which is used in most off the peg shop manufactured shop shirts... You would not expect your jacket at back to have a dart!! I'm developing a centre back seam for shirts and a 2 piece sleeve or semi fitted sleeve that wil follow the natural angle from the elbow and a higher crown that will fit the arm better and more becoming than shirt sleeves like alll shirt makers use including wil Whitind which does not really look good on you.
You basically need a minimum of a seven figure income to buy from Savile Row bespoke tailors as well as London bespoke shoe makers.
16:40 It's a bit hard for me to make out, Is this collar fused or unfused??
I started making some of my own clothes a few years ago and these type of videos present so much information to help me take a step forward in my hobby. Thank you Kirby and Wil!
kiem the barbellian fused
Amazing costumer experince , thanks for this.
I enjoyed watching the tailor make adjustments, seeing his passion for his craft.
Perhaps a different way of going about the video would be to show the alterations being made, and then have the tailor reflect on the type of adjustments, and reasons with his client in depth then?
In some places it felt a little uncomfortable to watch, still enjoyable, and informative. I just found attention being diverted from the task to observations were a little distracting.
I think the collar adjustment while on the client was such a lovely thing, and the collar height in the front in relation to his Adams apple ( not achievable on paper), it's the professional attention to detail that helps make a truly customized garment, which I am sure looks immaculate on completion!
I need to watch the others in the series.
Kirby, what do you think of the rise of performance dress shirts? Shirts with elements like stretch, anti-odor/wrinkle, moisture wicking etc. I've had a few MTM performance shirts lately, usually something like a 97% cotton with a technical/stretch fabric. I like how they can be a lot more fitted and yet move with me whereas a 100% cotton usually must have extra space to move. I also like how I don't need to be as careful about keeping them in good condition as cleaning and pressing them isn't as crucial.
Thanks for another great video. Wil is a legend.
krollic I’m a purest, so I could never do it. Well, I take that back, I do have one Mizzen + Main shirt that was a gift, and I will wear it when traveling with the family. That can pull, tug, etc and I’m not worrying about ruining an expensive shirt.
I also have brothers that really can’t be bothered. They work in the car auction business, so they’re constantly in and outside, walking around, etc. They want to look smart for as little effort as possible. M+M works great for them.
Really appreciate the response. Is there anything you dislike about such performance fabrics or do you just have a preference for the traditional way?
Great video Kirby Allison
The fit of these dress shirts, amaaaaziiiing!
I cant wait to get fitted shirt by John Park at Zeglio for my wedding. they are in SD, LA and Chicity
I am unable to find the first fitting video. Are we uploading that at sometime?
Looking like Mao there at six minutes! Kirby, this is all quite useful. Thank you, Sir.
Kirby loves a fresh shirt. Loves it.
A shirt of this quality and attention to detail prompts me to ask the questions: Launder and Press or Dry Clean and Press?
Hi kirby! I have a question on bespoke shirts. How significant is the difference in a bespoke shirt compared to an off the rack shirt and a made to measure shirt. I only have made to measure shirts (and some off the rack) at this point. I'm wondering, a bespoke suit is definitely worth it if you can afford it because of the large number of parameters that determine the fit of a suit. In a shirt, you have fewer parameters to control to give the perfect it. How far is this true, and if it is, do you think a bespoke shirt (with starting prices at £150, compared to a Charles Tyrwhitt off the rack at £22.95) is worth the investment for someone just getting into fine meanswear?
I’d say that the difference is, indeed, less with a bespoke shirt. It primarily comes down to fit and styling. If you can find a RTW or MTM shirt that fits you well and you’re happy with styling details, then save the money.
I’ve always had my shirts made. Beginning with MyTailor, which is a very high-end MTM program. Full selection of fabrics, great prices, and I could have them made to my particular preferences.
I then went to Charvet. Primarily because of the experience. Charvet is one-of-a-kind. A sartorial pilgrimage. Their work is masterful and I appreciate and admire the craftsmanship every time I wear one (I’m wearing one today). Very expensive, but for me worth it.
I’ve got other friends that are equally good dressers as I that are happy to wear Charles Trywhitt. They fit good enough, all he wears is white, and the prices is right.
If you need to think about the expenses before going bespoke then you should not go bespoke, only go bespoke if you money stops being a thing to you
would love to see a review of a ' Richard James' shirt
Looks excellent.....love the darts
Thanks
Sou do Brasil, gosto muito do seu canal,os produtos são maravilhosos , meu sonho é ter um terno de alfaiataria dessa qualidade e requinte,no Brasil é muito caro.Muito mesmo.os sapatos são lindos não vejo por aqui.um abração Kirbyallisom.
Wil looks great in everything he wears..... especially in pants. Wow.
Oh thank goodness for that! I saw that it was going to be shown last night, came back to the iPad and all mention of the video had gone! Now I can watch and enjoy with my breakfast! Thanks for the explanation with the name change Kirby, I must admit a few times I was searching for hanger project hoping it had not been deleted!
ianmedium Yeah... we’re trying to work something out with the old domain. But TH-cam impossible to get in touch with.
I love your suits Kirby! Where do you have them made?
Love the collar
Can't wait to see that shirt when it's done
박지후 Yeah! Me too!
Oh and Wil is wearing what looks like a beautiful Cartier Tank.
ianmedium Yeah. He has a beautiful watch!
The watch was slightly troubling. He appears very sharp and proper, but the watch is a little weighty. I imagine a Tank Louis would suit him a lot more, especially in white metal.
looks more like a Santos
He is beautiful period. I would drink this guys fucking bath water.
How much does a shirt cost?
Well done..he really does great work & very knowledgeable....thankyou kirby for your tour's & channel, absolutely luv it !! ...i live in Vancouver Canada & sumas Washington /Seattle....sure would luv to make my way to london/france/italy ...would be a great bespoke tour for my boys & i, again thanks... ""here here"" ""well done well done indeed'" !!👍✌🇬🇧🇺🇸🇨🇦👍✌!!
He is insanely handsome.
This guy is funny and hilarious.
So having one leg or arm longer than the other. It’s usually a spine issue. For example I always go to a chiropractor before I get measured because I had several incidents where one arm was longer one time. The next time my right was longer. Now if you’ve had fractures or a rotator injury you may be permanently longer on one arm being it won’t reattach exactly how you were born.
"It could be a number of things it could be... the arm is just longer...". Cracks me up everytime.
How much is the shirt?.
Not one word of Establishing mentioned every four seconds or so. No navy suit for war. This is a strange world and I'm not used to it.
I like looking into a world I will never be able to enter ....thank you
I can’t find a video of the grey trial shirt ☹️☹️
th-cam.com/video/slxc-JoeGUI/w-d-xo.html
Amazing ❤
Basically what's the price of the shirt
How much would that of been?
Want knowledge about cutting of customise shirt
The question is who makes HIS shirts?
Tricep
I can stand watching the tailor holding needles-pins with his mouth. My grandmother was a tailor a d she always did that....
Awesome detailing Kirby... You should try and review Kamakura shirts MTM in New York
Very nice video indeed
Wil's shirt sleeves look short, but he still manages to show a bit of cuff.