You are such an island of calm civility and positivity. Thanks for your great work. I have been enjoying Brian the Shoemaker's videos and am looking forward to your shoemaking endeavors.
Harry, your Newey's are "Saddler's Pincers", or "Bulldogs" to most saddlers. They are used to strain webbing onto saddle trees, and for pulling seats on. The hammer block is never used to hammer, it is a fulcrum, or lever block. The under jaw is the hammer face. So one pulls a tab of the drawdown , stitched to the edge of the seat, over the edge of a saddle tree. When the seat seam is in the right spot, the tab is held by the thumb, say of the left hand , and with the right hand a cut tack is picked up, stuck in the tab, and the under jaw face hits it in a bit to hold. Useful for pulling leather down in a hand splitter too. Odd bits that are awkward to get a hold of. Hope this is of some help.
Harry.... ! Such a great time (and relaxing) to hear/watch your videos while I work. Have a couple of old tools to restore and I can't wait to start and experiment myself. Thanks for sharing !
I've just been doing the same thing but with gardening tools. I used white vinegar for smaller things and citric acid in water for larger (from the clothes washing isle in Wilko's!). They do small wire brushes too which work really well for scrubbing. It's so satisfying. Thanks for the video, Harry.
Thank you. I have had a heel shave that I bought at a flea market when I was a kid 35 years ago, and never knew what it was until today! I whole heartedly agree that second hand tools are usually the way to go with a few exceptions. They have more character too.
Good deal. Personally, I soak rusty tools (old, valuable ones) in vinegar for a few hours. After that the rust comes easily off with just sandpaper or wirebrush. Then give them a light coat of oil. I think this is a bit gentler for my precious tools 😏. Cheap and heavily rusted tools gets the the wire grinder treatment.
A fine haul. I just bought a similar sized lot of block planes. Didn’t need six rusty block planes but I did want the one Miller’s Falls no36 knuckle cap block plane, it’s an absolute gem! Jealous of the runner beans too. My favorite summer vegetable. Stay well!
The best way to get rid of rust is molasses and water. It takes longer, but no metal is lost. I've brought back rusted solid pocket knives this way. You also need a big enough container to submerse your tools in.
As always great info How about a stroll around your neck of the woods again liked seeing the UK with out boarding a plane. stay safe and well thanks again
Always love your videos. Very best rust cleaner... 1 part molasses to 8 parts water. Leave in the mix for 2 wks and every bit of rust will disappear even in the slides. The rust will wash off like silty mud. Wipe with boiled linseed oil. I've used many many dif. methods. I used electrolysis for a long time but like this method much better. Stuff will last 7months a little stinky but keep inclosed Tupperware and better if you use gloves. I also use different lengths of PVC for longer materials.
Nice set of tools at a decent price, Harry. I had no idea they made a Sam Browne punch. I do it the hard way, punch a hole, cut a slit. A slightly less harsh treatment than the coarse wire wheel, would be to use one of those Scotch pad wheels, preferably the purple/maroon coloured one. Cheers, Frank.
I agree EBay and flea markets can be a good source of inexpensive tools if the purchaser is willing to spend some time on restoration or cleanup. Your tools were not what I would call rusty. Very light superficial rust. I have restored a number of hand bench planes which were REALLY rusty. These took many hours to remove the rust and clean up. A lot more work than these tools. Glad your tools were easy to get back to working condition. There are many methods to remove rust including electrolysis which you mentioned. Many fluids which are acid like vinegar, citrus juice, oxalic acid (aka wood bleach) will remove rust. In the US a product EvapoRust works really well, it is just expensive compared to the acid fluids. Dave.
You will find a shark or officially what is a barracuda logo on the feathering knife. That corresponds to the Swedish E.A.Berg company which had a factory in Eskilstuna. The original handle colour is black, sadly here it has been painted blue to match the Barnsley tools (I would be tempted to reverse that). An extremely rare tool and a lucky find - you should treasure it. It is by FAR the most valuable tool in the entire set. This company was also famed for their cut throat razors and this blade should sharpen up beautifully.
Thanks very much for your message...it does have a barracuda...initially I thought it was the Sandvik fish, but great you have been able to correctly identify it for me....thanks. It cuts beautifully and is certainly a lovely one to use.
If you put rusty tools in a quick dip in MERATICACID WILL TAKE RUST OFF IN SECONDS THEN PUT IN FRESH WATER RINSE DRY WITH CLOTH TOWEL OIL ALL HINGES . THEN JUST SAND , POLISH TO YOUR LIKING . LOTS OF LESS WORK AND WASTED GRINDING .
@@AB-gn8oh Thanks...got a feeling it may not be very easy for the casual DIY person to get hold of in small quantities?? Think on balance I will stick with a wire brush.
@@harryrogers Not sure of other countries, but in the Netherlands you can find 1 liter bottles in hardware stores for pretty cheap. Know what you do and don't mix with other chemicals. You can always dilute it a bit. Not as fast, but less dangerous as well. If you do dillute, please note that you add the acid to the water, not the other way around. It can get quite hot if you do it the wrong way around.
How are you been looking at leather tools on apps in package deals but might have a look for secondhand ones like yourself love cleaning tools especially older ones. But have you ever tried soaking them in Coca-Cola and then using tinfoil to polish them up specially the chrome it cleans up a treat someone else’s use white vinegar that also is good but tinfoil is a great thing to scrape of rust. If not a bit of wire wall is good but also freeze off any tools the Coke does as well
Harry Rogers Harry a bloke who used to drive tanks many years ago in the war they always recommend have a can of Coke just in case they have to try and free a bolt what’s stuck on. But you can look it up on TH-cam it really does work very well. But another tip brown sauce on your blades every now and then specially your garden tools secateurs hedge cutters it cleans sap off and bring some metal back to New
@@harryrogers Hi Harry I have really appreciated your prompt reply. I'm not into shoes but repair leather of all descriptions , thicknesses and types. I'm looking for an adhesive that would work generally across all types. Is your recommended glue readily available ?
@@harryrogers also , I remember seeing you from one of your videos , using glue from a fairly large white bottle container. What was that , please ? Thanks Harry. Take care. GH
Hi Harry, I'm a bespoke shoemaker in Australia. I've always loved your video content. If you need any help getting started on shoes let me know, I'd love to help.
@@harryrogers Yeah, I usually add 15-20mm at the toe depending on how the client walks. I would keep the width at the ball the same to account for leather stretch (depending on shoe design and leather used). The really important measurement is from the seat (base of the ankle) to the ball (line where the foot starts to bend). Make sure your shoe is designed to bend at the same point that the foot is. This is usually slightly different between the left and right feet. This is why I think last design is the deep end (for bespoke shoes). But I commend you for taking your shoemaking journey from this point. I like your holistic approach. Also, you have heaps of resources in the UK that we don't have in Australia for shoemaking like Bakers, Springline etc I look forward to seeing your journey. James (Roberts & Hassett)
I don't usually critique your videos, that being said, I really cringed when i watched you using a knife to open the carton and drawing it toward yourself. Not really something that you should advocate, as a professional leatherworker I happen to know that you are fully aware of the implications. I truly enjoy your videos. I must say that I have not discovered the nice quality tools that you have at an affordable price as yet.
Well, I have to say that I'm looking forward to seeing you make shoes. That sounds like a lot of fun.
You are such an island of calm civility and positivity. Thanks for your great work. I have been enjoying Brian the Shoemaker's videos and am looking forward to your shoemaking endeavors.
Harry, when watching you, it is always "Good fun."
Hi yes doing what I enjoy!
Harry, your Newey's are "Saddler's Pincers", or "Bulldogs" to most saddlers. They are used to strain webbing onto saddle trees, and for pulling seats on. The hammer block is never used to hammer, it is a fulcrum, or lever block. The under jaw is the hammer face. So one pulls a tab of the drawdown , stitched to the edge of the seat, over the edge of a saddle tree. When the seat seam is in the right spot, the tab is held by the thumb, say of the left hand , and with the right hand a cut tack is picked up, stuck in the tab, and the under jaw face hits it in a bit to hold. Useful for pulling leather down in a hand splitter too. Odd bits that are awkward to get a hold of. Hope this is of some help.
Harry.... ! Such a great time (and relaxing) to hear/watch your videos while I work. Have a couple of old tools to restore and I can't wait to start and experiment myself. Thanks for sharing !
I'm really enjoying your chill and peaceful videos. Thank you.
Thanks Harry, you always make me smile! I’ll ‘pop off now’!
Around the shop we call that knife a "Lip knife". Used for removing excess around the sole.
@1.08 strike him centurion, 😆
Nice video again Harry, keep up the good work👍
I've just been doing the same thing but with gardening tools. I used white vinegar for smaller things and citric acid in water for larger (from the clothes washing isle in Wilko's!). They do small wire brushes too which work really well for scrubbing. It's so satisfying. Thanks for the video, Harry.
Try Harpic 10X, amazing stuff and cheap.
Thank you. I have had a heel shave that I bought at a flea market when I was a kid 35 years ago, and never knew what it was until today! I whole heartedly agree that second hand tools are usually the way to go with a few exceptions. They have more character too.
Wow...that's good Wes....it's telling you to make some shoes!
Love this one! We have a guy here in The US in NYC with a channel named Scoutcrafter who does a lot of this kind of work.
Proper job mate! Cheers from across the pond in USA
Oh, I think that is a lovely pile of rust. You definitely beat me to it as I am always looking for good tools to work on.
That's a lovely record autovice! It deserves some love, very good quality and starting to become quite sought after!
Yes it was rusty when I got it for £1 UK, but a bit of oil and use and it's happy, has a nice swivel base.
@@harryrogers Absolute bargain!
What a brilliant video!!
Thanks very much
Good deal. Personally, I soak rusty tools (old, valuable ones) in vinegar for a few hours. After that the rust comes easily off with just sandpaper or wirebrush. Then give them a light coat of oil. I think this is a bit gentler for my precious tools 😏. Cheap and heavily rusted tools gets the the wire grinder treatment.
Same here @Mikki S - soak in vinegar with some salt added. Works a treat
@@paulidevoss7249 Oh, the salt was a new thing. I have to try that.
Traditionally done on a Friday? 🤣
I will take mine with chips next time!
Harry Rogers thanks Harry, I was fishing for that 😂
A fine haul. I just bought a similar sized lot of block planes. Didn’t need six rusty block planes but I did want the one Miller’s Falls no36 knuckle cap block plane, it’s an absolute gem! Jealous of the runner beans too. My favorite summer vegetable. Stay well!
Sounds very good...and some good tips in the comments here for rust removal.
Great video, Harry! I'm inspired to try out a lot of vintage tools now!
The best way to get rid of rust is molasses and water. It takes longer, but no metal is lost. I've brought back rusted solid pocket knives this way. You also need a big enough container to submerse your tools in.
What a great find...
As always great info How about a stroll around your neck of the woods again liked seeing the UK with out boarding a plane. stay safe and well thanks again
I can't wait for the shoe making video🥰
Thanks
Always love your videos.
Very best rust cleaner... 1 part molasses to 8 parts water. Leave in the mix for 2 wks and every bit of rust will disappear even in the slides. The rust will wash off like silty mud. Wipe with boiled linseed oil. I've used many many dif. methods. I used electrolysis for a long time but like this method much better. Stuff will last 7months a little stinky but keep inclosed Tupperware and better if you use gloves. I also use different lengths of PVC for longer materials.
Thanks very much
Nice set of tools at a decent price, Harry. I had no idea they made a Sam Browne punch. I do it the hard way, punch a hole, cut a slit.
A slightly less harsh treatment than the coarse wire wheel, would be to use one of those Scotch pad wheels, preferably the purple/maroon coloured one.
Cheers, Frank.
Thanks Frank.
I agree EBay and flea markets can be a good source of inexpensive tools if the purchaser is willing to spend some time on restoration or cleanup.
Your tools were not what I would call rusty. Very light superficial rust. I have restored a number of hand bench planes which were REALLY rusty. These took many hours to remove the rust and clean up. A lot more work than these tools. Glad your tools were easy to get back to working condition.
There are many methods to remove rust including electrolysis which you mentioned. Many fluids which are acid like vinegar, citrus juice, oxalic acid (aka wood bleach) will remove rust. In the US a product EvapoRust works really well, it is just expensive compared to the acid fluids.
Dave.
You will find a shark or officially what is a barracuda logo on the feathering knife. That corresponds to the Swedish E.A.Berg company which had a factory in Eskilstuna. The original handle colour is black, sadly here it has been painted blue to match the Barnsley tools (I would be tempted to reverse that). An extremely rare tool and a lucky find - you should treasure it. It is by FAR the most valuable tool in the entire set. This company was also famed for their cut throat razors and this blade should sharpen up beautifully.
Thanks very much for your message...it does have a barracuda...initially I thought it was the Sandvik fish, but great you have been able to correctly identify it for me....thanks. It cuts beautifully and is certainly a lovely one to use.
That was interesting... I had never seen most of those tools before. I hope life is treating you well.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
Thanks Brendan....yes all good despite isolation!
Nic spot on the tools you got
I think the knife with the lip at the end is called a welt knife and is used for trimming as well as other things I’m sure.
Great
Great haul health to use, looking forward to seeing you use them
Thanks for another great video, Harry. Please could you tell me how you fixed the ceased-up pliers? Thank you.
Hello I wirebrushed and oiled the joint and it soon loosened up.
Harry Rogers, thank you. I look forward to future videos.😊
If you put rusty tools in a quick dip in MERATICACID WILL TAKE RUST OFF IN SECONDS THEN PUT IN FRESH WATER RINSE DRY WITH CLOTH TOWEL OIL ALL HINGES . THEN JUST SAND , POLISH TO YOUR LIKING . LOTS OF LESS WORK AND WASTED GRINDING .
Is that also known as muriatic acid? Sounds good!
It’s also a highly dangerous substance, though. I think I’d err on the safe side and use elbow grease!
@@AB-gn8oh Thanks...got a feeling it may not be very easy for the casual DIY person to get hold of in small quantities?? Think on balance I will stick with a wire brush.
@@harryrogers Not sure of other countries, but in the Netherlands you can find 1 liter bottles in hardware stores for pretty cheap. Know what you do and don't mix with other chemicals. You can always dilute it a bit. Not as fast, but less dangerous as well. If you do dillute, please note that you add the acid to the water, not the other way around. It can get quite hot if you do it the wrong way around.
Hi great videos did you make the knife you used to open the box
Hello..no I didn't make that one!
Harry Rogers hi ok thanks for the info; great videos thanks for sharing such informative videos
I like older tools made from really good steel. The newer stuff from Asia is not so good.
Have you ever tried products like Evaporust?
How are you been looking at leather tools on apps in package deals but might have a look for secondhand ones like yourself love cleaning tools especially older ones. But have you ever tried soaking them in Coca-Cola and then using tinfoil to polish them up specially the chrome it cleans up a treat someone else’s use white vinegar that also is good but tinfoil is a great thing to scrape of rust. If not a bit of wire wall is good but also freeze off any tools the Coke does as well
Thanks that's an interesting method.
Harry Rogers Harry a bloke who used to drive tanks many years ago in the war they always recommend have a can of Coke just in case they have to try and free a bolt what’s stuck on. But you can look it up on TH-cam it really does work very well. But another tip brown sauce on your blades every now and then specially your garden tools secateurs hedge cutters it cleans sap off and bring some metal back to New
Thank you)
Great stuff Harry, anyone about to try a solution try Harpic 10X.
Hi Harry
What adhesives do you use please ?
In my shoe vids I am using Renia Acquilim 315 and the other Renia strong one.
@@harryrogers Hi Harry
I have really appreciated your prompt reply. I'm not into shoes but repair leather of all descriptions , thicknesses and types. I'm looking for an adhesive
that would work generally across all types. Is your recommended glue readily available ?
@@harryrogers also , I remember seeing you from one of your videos , using glue from a fairly large white bottle container. What was that , please ? Thanks Harry. Take care. GH
@@gulamhoosendocrat7091 Hi that was Fiebings PVA type glue...pretty good
great .....thanks
Scotch brite type materials work better and you have full control by hand.
Dang it’s so bad you have to quarantine boxes?
can you pass me some tools when you pop! lol :P
Hi Harry, I'm a bespoke shoemaker in Australia. I've always loved your video content. If you need any help getting started on shoes let me know, I'd love to help.
Thanks very much James...I am sure I am going to need a few steers...at the moment I am trying to make some lasts.
@@harryrogers Starting at the deep end! Are you working off feet measurements?
@@JSR80 Yes and adding a bit to length...circa 1.5cm...for toes to stretch out. It's very difficult!!
@@harryrogers Yeah, I usually add 15-20mm at the toe depending on how the client walks. I would keep the width at the ball the same to account for leather stretch (depending on shoe design and leather used). The really important measurement is from the seat (base of the ankle) to the ball (line where the foot starts to bend). Make sure your shoe is designed to bend at the same point that the foot is. This is usually slightly different between the left and right feet. This is why I think last design is the deep end (for bespoke shoes). But I commend you for taking your shoemaking journey from this point. I like your holistic approach. Also, you have heaps of resources in the UK that we don't have in Australia for shoemaking like Bakers, Springline etc I look forward to seeing your journey. James (Roberts & Hassett)
Begli attrezzi signor Harry
Saluti dalla Sardegna (Italia)
Ciao
I love barnnsess pliers , but he has stopped production, so they are rare now.
They are now under a new team in Sheffield.
Harry Rogers is the company keeping the barnnsess name.? Or are they under Sheffield?
You have enough of those pliers to last forever.
Very good having the last laugh!
Are you really serious about quarantining your box?
I don't usually critique your videos, that being said, I really cringed when i watched you using a knife to open the carton and drawing it toward yourself. Not really something that you should advocate, as a professional leatherworker I happen to know that you are fully aware of the implications. I truly enjoy your videos. I must say that I have not discovered the nice quality tools that you have at an affordable price as yet.
Fair point Bill...I will try and set a better example....it does look bad! Thanks. All the best Harry