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Hi Ryan! Love the vids, I’m here in SLC Ut....Just started a lawn care company, really soaking up info on the science of grass. I’m still learning, sooo how soon can I apply fert after spraying Tenacity or Weed be gone? Or do I apply that before I fert?
I didn’t do a pre emergent for one season, we are in process of adopting and had to travel 12 hrs every other weekend. I had crab grass last summer so bad. I am also in the south and you are from Iowa, my home state. I will never skip my pre emergent again, all last season did was damage my grass.
I started spraying with an OTC 2-4-D product and saw little effect on well established weeds. After a comparison between labels, the commercial stuff is six (6) times stronger LOL. I sprayed another area and now notice a good percentage of the grass is turning yellow, there is more weeds than grass. Its like what you said about moving into your home, the grass needs some real help before it will ever look good.. If I have to kill the ground cover to grow grass, that's what has to be done.. The price of lawn products today, grass seed, pre-emergent, post-emergent, starter fertilizer, lawn fertilizer, lime, etc; it's expensive to keep your property looking great.
I'm glad you bring up the pre-emergent Ryan.. people are going crazy with this stuff I haven't used any of my lawn for over 5 years. When i mow my lawn and see a weed I pick it. But I learned from you i grow my KBG grass very thick.
I have a terrible crabgrass problem where many areas of the yard have taken over to choke out my seed. I live in SC and need to attack now before spring...HELp
There's also Tupersan as a pre-emergent. It doesn't prohibit germination of cool season grasses but it also doesn't last all that long. Many manufacturers (Scott's, Agway, ProScapes) make a "Step 1 for New Lawns" that use Tupersan. I'm actually going to use it this year because I'm going to torch a big patch of Rough Bluegrass that cropped up with the ever-saturated turf we've had in PA, and I want to at least attempt to repair it.
good video bud. clear, concise, informative. I guess my standards are low because even your crabgrass infested lawn you showed at 2:47 looked good to me! I'm just targeting broadleaf weeds for now so thanks for the info on that too!
Hi Ryan...I really appreciate your video on pre emergent herbicide for weed control and advice/recommendation not to use chemicals unless needed!!! I am trying to build up my soil organically and limit the use of chemicals as much as possible. I also try and pull weeds out when I see them. That's part of the fun and walking/working my lawn. Keep up the great work and I will stay tuned to your awesome info!
3:16 omg! so do you consult Augusta National or something?! that looks better than the picture on the side of a bag of Scotts. the only thing your lawn is missing is a pin.
Prodiamine early early spring, Dimension early summer. I am in my 2nd year of my lawn reno. The hardest weed for me to control is POA. Crabgrass and other weeds not so much. I had to kill off my entire backyard because of POA, my complete reno and seeding has yielded good results so far.
I found in the garden organic is a lot more fun and rewarding. Learning how nature works. As I get a large yard thick and healthy I also intend to use much less chemicals. Some people, especially in Europe use clover in the grass for fertilizer. We Americans are set on the uniform carpet look.
Wow! Glad I found you. A whole weekend of viewing planned. But I do have an urgent question. Will Barricade granular prevent bermuda seed from invading my zoysia lawn? I nearly lost my lawn last summer to an aggressive (roadside) strain of bermuda blowing in from a neighbors' horrible yard. I'm controlling the growing bermuda with Ornamec, but want to prevent new germination in the Spring. Thanks!
Barricade won't prevent the bermuda. Unfortunately you are going to have quite a battle on your hands and it will be one that will likely have to continue every single year as long as there is bermuda near you. As you have found out it's extremely aggressive and will take over everything else so you can either let it do so and have bermuda, or continue fighting it almost constantly OR try to come up with some kind of physical barrier like pavers or landscaping if the bermuda is right next to your zoysia. I talked with a few pros that know southern turf and this is the info they gave me. Spray the whole area you are trying to control the bermuda with Fusilade + Triclopyr - spot spraying tends to do more damage and won't remove all of the bermuda in most cases. Here's a link to the rates for use - extension.tennessee.edu/Sullivan/Documents/Ag%20Documents/Controlling%20bermudagrass%20and%20turf%20grass.pdf
Quick question for cool grass lawn. I had a lot of poa annua and clover in my lawn this year. I sprayed sublime at end of august which killed all of the clover, sedge and wild violet. I then overseeded with a 70/30 mixture of kbg and rye mid September. Would you put down prodiamine in the winter to prevent the poa from coming back? Also if so when do I put it down? Kbg takes 3 weeks to germinate and probably takes another month to full establish. So am I looking at mid November for spraying? Thanks!
Ryan a lot of great info thank you. We moved in this house in October of 2021 I didn't do anything to the lawn because of the time of year. Come spring I spot seeded with a little fertilizer and that's been about it. I have been dealing with lots of crabgrass and broadleaf weeds, ant mounds, now brown spots dead spots etc. I live in Midwest the grass is tall fescue and Kentucky Blue My question is if I aerate, seed and fertilizer in the fall can i use a per-emergent come spring before the temp reaches that 55 degree limit and will the granular or herbicide pre-emergent still effect the fall process.
How can I stop the winter weeds in the transition zones in dormant warm season grass without preemergent? My back yard seems almost completely covered in weeds now, while my front yard that I used preemergent on is a clean beige carpet.
Ryan have you ever battled creeping Charlie? This is my second year on my lawn and it came out of nowhere. Spreads quite rapidly. I’m strongly against chemicals personally but not sure there is an organic control for this
Yes I have an probably will again this year. My neighbors yard is full of it and it does as the name suggests....creeps. I've used the broadleaf weed killers on it mainly but a surfactant mixed in is very important.
In the hottest part of summer, I end up with MOSTLY a crabgrass lawn The pre-emergent looks hard to find without mixed with fertilizer. So...I'm wondering if an acceptable defense would be to use the springtime to overseed like crazy, and apply milorganite regularly in hopes that the grass is strong enough to snuff out the crabgrass. Sound reasonable, or .....bad idea??
Thick grass will always help but it's a tough task seeding in the spring and not running into issues in the summer. There's some links I provided here on getting crabgrass preventer without fertilizer mixed in and those will work well. There should be something like that found locally as well, but you might have to search around.
Hey Ryan, watching this video in preparation of 2022 season. I did a full lawn reno this fall. Would you recommend using a pre emergent this spring and evaluate my lawn for more seeding this fall? Or double down on the seeding this spring and build up good grass? I’m in Omaha, so roughly same weather as you guys get in Iowa. Thanks.
@@dereks3538 I’m literally stuck at a crossroads 😂. I’ve seen very compelling videos on either side. Monday I think I’ll go to my local turf store (Grasspad) and talk to them. Interestingly they offer a product (method more or less) that would allow me to do both a pre emergent and seed.
It really depends on your weed pressure from the past and how thick your lawn is right now. I typically don't put pre-emergent on a new renovation that was done in the fall and have not seen a lot of issues that couldn't be taken care of with post emergent if necessary.
@@rclsu13 yeah definitely age old question. There are strategies for whichever way you want to go but I guess it depends how much you can stand looking at a super thin lawn 🤣
I just picked up Scotts crabgrass and gray weed from ace hardware in Chicago area for $17 just had tree cut down do trying to prevent crabgrass since it doesn't grow in the shade, also I spot spray with bayer concentrate works awesome
Hey Ryan great video very informative but I have a off the subject question I live in Michigan my daytime temperatures are getting around 50 degrees my night time temperatures are still in the mid-to-upper 30s my soil temperatures are around 43 degrees I'm really itching to get out there and aerate and put down a Scott's starter fertilizer with crabgrass and dandelion control but was wondering at what soil temperature should I aerate also I do not want to miss my soil temperature window where my pre-emergent will be effective any advice would be greatly appreciated
Just personally I would wait until the grass is actively growing a little more but then I get what you're saying with trying to time that out correctly. Aeration needs an actively growing lawn to be able to repair itself but if you did it early you would just want to make sure to get it watered sufficiently to help the repair process.
Omg I can't get over how beautiful your yard looks at 3:15, it almost looks fake. I can't figure out how you did that type of pattern, I've never seen anything like it.
An excellent discussion with many things I've never considered! My Bermuda lawn is technically established, but after taking good care of it for six years, it's still not as thick and resilient as I'd like, and I think its down to the poor quality of the soil the builder left after the house was finished. My soil is basically construction debris, but after years of mulching and augmenting, I'm starting to build a decent layer of topsoil. I had not considered that pre-emergent slightly impacts the root system, and now I'm considering not applying an early spring treatment this year based on your advice. (I do NOT have a significant weed issue, thankfully.) Do you think the pre-emergent impacts the root system even while the bermuda is dormant? Thanks again!
I would say that if you know your lawn and you're not seeing a ton of crabgrass then it will be up to you if you apply pre-emergent or not at that point. I have not used it in my yard for the past 3 season because the yard has been thick enough that I have not seen any issues with crabgrass. As for your specific lawn I would definitely recommend a soil test to figure out what's going on. That is going to be extremely valuable in figuring out a plan to improve your turf. Without it, you're sort of throwing things at it just guessing. I hope that helps!
@@ryanknorrlawncare It does, thanks! I'm trying to get my head wrapped around to what extent Bermuda is actively processing chemicals applied to it or around it when it's dormant. In any case, a soil test is a great idea, thanks!
thank you .finally someone mentioned pre-emegents, slow grass growth. 1 st time i used, i found out to late by trial , all these other channels say its the best thing for your yard! not true- if you are trin to fill bare spot by rhizomes and stolons. acts like a growth inhibitor == evidence, by spots i missed.
Any tips on how best to get rid of weeds/grass that is growing in a stone flowerbed? I noticed you have pebble instead of mulch in a flowerbed there, which is similar to what I have. I do have pets that will be in the area and am unsure of the most effective/safest way to eradicate the pesky vegetation. Only a few bushes are placed within the beds. Also, would just adding more stone help? Love your videos - any info would be helpful and appreciated.
It still seems to growth through the stone a lot but you could try a strong white vinegar if you wanted something natural. I have heard that works or otherwise round up is about the only way to kill weeds/grasses etc if you can't do it by hand.
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care Thanks for the speedy reply! Would pulling them by hand remove the roots, or would they still grow back? The white vinegar is a great idea! I’ll try that for sure. I’d thought of dumping more rock down to try to thicken the rock mulch layer. Do you think that would help? Some spots are less than an inch of rock *we bought the house a couple summers ago and he prior owners installed the rock without a barrier underneath.
I live in La Crosse WI. (I will say I'm still a Vikings fan as I grew up in MN). There is one side of my house that gets overgrown with crab grass in the summer. It gets a lot of sun in the mid summer months. Anyway, it's fall now, Oct, and all that crabgrass is dead and there's a thick dead nasty blanket of it. What should I do now in the fall when temps are cooler? I will note that the soil on this area under all of that is super fine dirt, kind of sandy. I tried seeding new grass in the spring and it started to look good but it was quickly overtaken by the crabgrass. So, now that's it's fall season and there is a blanket of dead crabgrass what the heck do I do??? Thanks so much!
Ryan,I have several big maple tress that the canopy and roots are robbing my grass from growing under. The dead grass area keeps getting bigger ever year. I live in Wisconsin with a heavy clay soil yard. Need your help. Any thoughts.Tony
I would landscape as much of that area as possible and not try to fight it. Otherwise, fine fescues grow best in shade. The issue is that those trees take all the nutrients and the grass struggles anyway
I’m tying to thicken the lawn .. should I apply prodiamine only in the spring b4 the temp reaches 55 and then reseed again in the fall with tenacity and NO prodiamine in the fall ?
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care last question: should I do a core arrogation every fall for for the next couple seasons until I get a thick lawn or just top seed ?
I believe because they affect the existing roots of the grass you have it would probably start to show some damage at that point. I'm not sure how much though.
Ryan there is no doubt that you can grow a lawn without using Pre-emergents once it has been established and growing thick turf...my first home I lived in it for 8 years and never once use Pre-E...I also only applied fertilizer once in the spring and that St Aug grew threw September like crazy! However now at my new home I had to add my own sod...I installed it August 2017 and didn’t apply Pre-E till Feb 2018...didn’t get much crab grass or many grassy weeds...few sedges and Virginia Buttonweed...mine issue i have is with Dallisgrass! Never even heard of that stuff till this year...that stuff is tough to get rid of in St Aug...I’ve been brushing glyphosate and it works just time consuming! Also pull weeds here and there...Now that the St Aug is getting thicker I’m seeing less and less weeds...gonna hit it with Milo in July and should be good till fall application. Great Vid, sometimes chemicals are needed but less is best.
It can grow a few strands here and there. If you use a spreader with a guard on it on one side then you can prevent it somewhat from slinging into the landscaping. Otherwise what does grow you can just pull out by hand pretty easily when it's not established yet.
Great video,Very informative , I haven't used a pre emergent yet, I might hold off yet this year. But I can't wait for lawn season to start here in Wisconsin. Also looking forward to more great lawn videos this year.
how do you identify what is a preemergent and what isnt? only thing im seeing on these products is the key word "weed preventer" that cant be the only thing, certain chemicals im looking for in the herbicide?
I was planning to seed now, I have mixed lawn KBG, Rye and tall Fescue. I see crabgrass, dandelions, clover and A tall patchy grass that out grows the rest of the lawn. Some other weeds showing not sure what they are. It seems every year more keeps appearing and my turf starting to thin out. I had lawn care company last year but discontinued because since I am seeing more weeds than when I was doing myself. They aerated and seeded last year, handled fert and weed control. I did all the grass cutting at highest mower setting.
Very strange that they weren't able to take care of the weeds. Usually a company is using a bit more of the high end products that consumers just don't want to pay for. I would actually consider a different company to zap out the weeds and start from that point because if they are taking over then it will be a losing battle. Otherwise aerate and overseed multiple times a year until the grass starts outcompeting the weeds and mow tall as you are.
lots crab grass grow in my yard, they are drying out & turning brown, I would assume they are dying. Question: a, do I have to pull all roots (drying & turning brown) before I sow grass seeds? b, roots still not get pullout, will they regrow in the spring? c, when will be the best time to seed? late fall (end Oct) or now (mid September)? d. how soon I can apply pre emergent after I sow grass seeds? Thanks
I would check into using Tenacity when seeding. I have more info in my "how to seed a new lawn" video and it depends where you live but seeding can either be late already or just about the right time. I wouldn't use any pre-emergent this year (except Tenacity) and worry about crabgrass pre-emergent next spring.
Ryan, I used Tenacity in the Fall for the first time and had good success, especially with the bad Goosegrass problem I had. It’s now approaching late February and I am starting to plan for spring. Wanting to use a pre emergent, such as Barricade/Prodiamine. Is there a significant difference between using granular or liquid? Also wondering if Tenacity can be used as a pre emergent. Thinking it might be a good option without using a surfactant so it gets into the soil easier. Thanks
Not really a significant difference for granular vs liquid other than if you are comfortable spraying, the prodiamine especially is much cheaper long term. Tenacity is a good pre-emergent for seeding, but it does not last long whereas the traditional pre-emergent will last for months and provide good prevention so I would go that route if you can.
Ryan... been watching you for a while now. Thx for the info. I put on lesco stonewall 0-0-7 three weeks ago and have gotten a good amount of rain but some of the pellets haven’t dissolved. Our northeast snow was late to melt and it also snowed last week. What’s I rule if I want to put down some seed to thicken? I assume seed won’t grow if I put down may 1st? Any thoughts. If I didn’t break my ankle last fall I would be in a different position so need some advice if you can lend any.
Great video Ryan! Temp rollercoaster continues here in SE Michigan. Gonna give it a week or 2 and apply Lesco (pre-emergent). Temps are rising...but not soil temps as of yet. I heard your co-star in the background...lol. Be safe Brotha!
MSU is saying SE Michigan is entering the ideal time to put down Pre-Emergent. www.gddtracker.net Make sure you're checking that or doing soil temp tests.
Very helpful tips. I am in North texas. I have missed pre emergent in the fall. In last 5 years i have never applied pre-emergent but i am facing crab grass.Can i still it in mid/late decemeber ? please suggest.
What do I do with a lawn that has a lot of “old school” (ky31) tall fescue? It’s 70 or 80% kbg mix but still dealing with sections that are ugly. Is my only option to kill them and renovate?
I tried it.. it just gets too hot here to mow that low. My grass just turned brown and wilted through the hot summer months Ward is awesome.. but remember he has to mow 2 to 3 times a week.
Hi Ryan I'm kind of confuse when to apply my pre emergent, I live in South Florida is October already but the temperature here is kind of high still , do I need to wait for the soil temperature to be 50* , or can I apply it now with no problem, I'm new to this just wanted to do it right, thanks for your videos
Prodiamine is listed to help prevent poa annua. It's also going to be necessary to apply that in the fall as poa germinates in the fall when soil temps fall below 70 degrees. This has some more info on the topic - www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-41-W.pdf
Hi Ryan, Couple of questions for you. I consider them to be a little harder to answer, But lets see if you got what it takes lol 1.i am applying a pre emergent to an area where water source won't reach(1,000 sq ft). Could I go back over with my sprayer filled with just water to water it in? 2. I know pre emergent stops seeds from germination. Does it actually kill the seeds or will the seed just sit there until the pre emergent wears off?
1. Needs to be watered in a 1/2 inch so you would to have a water source there to provide enough to properly water in 2. It creates a vapor barrier so the seeds start to grow and then the root system is not allowed to progress any farther and they die off
@@ryanknorrlawncare on #1 another person said I would be ok. And I think hes right, because I seen a video that mentioned commercial spray companies dont water in their pre emergent applications when they apply. They let mother nature do it and they are fine. You're thoughts?
@@randyman8984 you have usually 14 days according to most labels (but check your specific product) to have it watered in 1/2" but it's always preferred to water in if you can so that you know for sure you create the barrier you need right away without waiting and also your product is not wasted in the event it doesn't get watered in within the specified time. Lawn care companies certainly have things that they have to do that are not always ideal, but as homeowners we have more control so I always try to recommend to use that to your advantage if possible.
Hey Ryan I am ready to put down my pre emergents. I live by NYC and we are getting low 60s during the day and 40s at night. I have a company coming to trim trees on my property and imagine they are going to be walking and dragging branches all over. Is it more important to get it down now or should I wait another 3 days till there's no traffic on the lawn? Thanks
I would say it should be fine to get down now but just make sure to water it in. It needs to be watered in at least a 1/2" of water to send it down into the soil.
Agreed on the mixed results; the "throw down" rate is substantial and that stuff is expensive. Im pretty frugal with it myself. I tend to throw down more in problem areas. Its a good spring fertilizer too.
Does anyone have a suggestion for getting crabgrass out of a newly renovated fescue lawn it's about a month old now and I have grab grass starting to go crazy.. I put down Scott's starter fert with crabgrass and weed preventer...and it's not doing so well .....any help out there?
I'm trying to build up areas where I had crabgrass for a year. I killed the crabgrass with quinclorac last year caused it had already grown. I seeded the areas last fall with lesco starter fertilizer , milo and patchmaster. Still not growing. Had a lot of rain in Pennsylvania so far. What advice can you give?
I live in New England, just planted new grass seed in my backyard 3 weeks ago. Grass is coming along but I’m starting to get weeds I suspect from a neighbors yard. Can I use pre emergent with this young grass, also it being July
Hi, I live in New Mexico and have a “park blend” grass type, and it is very patchy. Would you recommend over seeding with fescue seed (fall or spring)? Or should I pull all the grass out and install sod? Btw, I’ve already put down Scott’s Turf Builder with Crabgrass Control.
New sod has extremely shallow root system. Herbicides prohibit the root growth. I would wait until 6-8 weeks for the new sod roots to establish into underlying soil. You spent good amount of money for sod, I wouldn’t chance spreading a pre m right now. You can always spot spray later in season.
Hi question I can't just get crabgrass prevent around by me only comes with furlitzer. Would you put it down when temps hit right and then throw down milorganite may 30th or is that going to be to much. I live by green bay wi.
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Hi Ryan! Love the vids, I’m here in SLC Ut....Just started a lawn care company, really soaking up info on the science of grass. I’m still learning, sooo how soon can I apply fert after spraying Tenacity or Weed be gone? Or do I apply that before I fert?
I didn’t do a pre emergent for one season, we are in process of adopting and had to travel 12 hrs every other weekend. I had crab grass last summer so bad. I am also in the south and you are from Iowa, my home state. I will never skip my pre emergent again, all last season did was damage my grass.
I started spraying with an OTC 2-4-D product and saw little effect on well established weeds. After a comparison between labels, the commercial stuff is six (6) times stronger LOL. I sprayed another area and now notice a good percentage of the grass is turning yellow, there is more weeds than grass. Its like what you said about moving into your home, the grass needs some real help before it will ever look good.. If I have to kill the ground cover to grow grass, that's what has to be done.. The price of lawn products today, grass seed, pre-emergent, post-emergent, starter fertilizer, lawn fertilizer, lime, etc; it's expensive to keep your property looking great.
Ryan I’m not doing pre emergent too I’m just starting to core the grass and seeding the lawn. soon I’ll miloganite the lawn I’m in the northeast
That should be a great plan. Good luck!
I'm glad you bring up the pre-emergent Ryan.. people are going crazy with this stuff I haven't used any of my lawn for over 5 years. When i mow my lawn and see a weed I pick it. But I learned from you i grow my KBG grass very thick.
Sometimes simplicity is a better approach but to each their own. There are many many ways to achieve a nice lawn.
I have a terrible crabgrass problem where many areas of the yard have taken over to choke out my seed. I live in SC and need to attack now before spring...HELp
There's also Tupersan as a pre-emergent. It doesn't prohibit germination of cool season grasses but it also doesn't last all that long. Many manufacturers (Scott's, Agway, ProScapes) make a "Step 1 for New Lawns" that use Tupersan. I'm actually going to use it this year because I'm going to torch a big patch of Rough Bluegrass that cropped up with the ever-saturated turf we've had in PA, and I want to at least attempt to repair it.
Good info. Thanks!
good video bud. clear, concise, informative. I guess my standards are low because even your crabgrass infested lawn you showed at 2:47 looked good to me! I'm just targeting broadleaf weeds for now so thanks for the info on that too!
Yes! It's that time of year again down here in the hot South where we watch the weather and measure soil temperature periodically.
Hey Ryan! I think your quick links to the various sections are broken in this video. All links look to point to the same URL.
Hi Ryan...I really appreciate your video on pre emergent herbicide for weed control and advice/recommendation not to use chemicals unless needed!!! I am trying to build up my soil organically and limit the use of chemicals as much as possible. I also try and pull weeds out when I see them. That's part of the fun and walking/working my lawn. Keep up the great work and I will stay tuned to your awesome info!
Totally agree. Sometimes the good old fashioned approach works as well as any.
3:16 omg! so do you consult Augusta National or something?! that looks better than the picture on the side of a bag of Scotts. the only thing your lawn is missing is a pin.
Prodiamine early early spring, Dimension early summer. I am in my 2nd year of my lawn reno. The hardest weed for me to control is POA. Crabgrass and other weeds not so much. I had to kill off my entire backyard because of POA, my complete reno and seeding has yielded good results so far.
Isn't the other reason you want to use Prodiamine early is the heat breaks it down?
Yes and Dimension has a little post emergence as well.
So far in my area I haven't seen much for poa which is good. Crossing my fingers.
My goto is Lesco 0-0-8 bought @siteone ... it's used for flower beds as well... I'm in South Jersey I use on zoysia and Texas bluegrass hybrid.
Nice. Site One is a good option for a lot of things.
Ha i work at siteOne in South florida and sold a bag of 0-0-8 yesterday (Yellow bag)
Make sure you don't mind whatever you wear being yellow, because it has a lot of dye in it.
Important question. Does pre emergent hurt the existing plants (mango & banana plant) if being sprayed on the soil near the plant ?
What is the order of application for fertilizer, pre-emergent, and over seeding?
I found in the garden organic is a lot more fun and rewarding. Learning how nature works. As I get a large yard thick and healthy I also intend to use much less chemicals. Some people, especially in Europe use clover in the grass for fertilizer. We Americans are set on the uniform carpet look.
Yep sometimes it's a challenge but that's fun too.
Wow! Glad I found you. A whole weekend of viewing planned. But I do have an urgent question. Will Barricade granular prevent bermuda seed from invading my zoysia lawn? I nearly lost my lawn last summer to an aggressive (roadside) strain of bermuda blowing in from a neighbors' horrible yard. I'm controlling the growing bermuda with Ornamec, but want to prevent new germination in the Spring. Thanks!
Barricade won't prevent the bermuda. Unfortunately you are going to have quite a battle on your hands and it will be one that will likely have to continue every single year as long as there is bermuda near you. As you have found out it's extremely aggressive and will take over everything else so you can either let it do so and have bermuda, or continue fighting it almost constantly OR try to come up with some kind of physical barrier like pavers or landscaping if the bermuda is right next to your zoysia. I talked with a few pros that know southern turf and this is the info they gave me. Spray the whole area you are trying to control the bermuda with Fusilade + Triclopyr - spot spraying tends to do more damage and won't remove all of the bermuda in most cases. Here's a link to the rates for use - extension.tennessee.edu/Sullivan/Documents/Ag%20Documents/Controlling%20bermudagrass%20and%20turf%20grass.pdf
Quick question for cool grass lawn. I had a lot of poa annua and clover in my lawn this year. I sprayed sublime at end of august which killed all of the clover, sedge and wild violet. I then overseeded with a 70/30 mixture of kbg and rye mid September. Would you put down prodiamine in the winter to prevent the poa from coming back? Also if so when do I put it down? Kbg takes 3 weeks to germinate and probably takes another month to full establish. So am I looking at mid November for spraying? Thanks!
Ryan a lot of great info thank you. We moved in this house in October of 2021 I didn't do anything to the lawn because of the time of year. Come spring I spot seeded with a little fertilizer and that's been about it. I have been dealing with lots of crabgrass and broadleaf weeds, ant mounds, now brown spots dead spots etc. I live in Midwest the grass is tall fescue and Kentucky Blue My question is if I aerate, seed and fertilizer in the fall can i use a per-emergent come spring before the temp reaches that 55 degree limit and will the granular or herbicide pre-emergent still effect the fall process.
You can use it in spring after an overseed this fall
I'm fertilizing with milorganite, spot spraying & pulling weeds..not dealing with pre- emergents!
That will work!
FitnessTechNcars That's exactly how I'm handling mine too!
How can I stop the winter weeds in the transition zones in dormant warm season grass without preemergent? My back yard seems almost completely covered in weeds now, while my front yard that I used preemergent on is a clean beige carpet.
What can i use for a massive wild onion/wild garlic problem, those stupid clumps of fake thin grass are everywhere in my newly seeded tall fescue lawn
Something like this should work - amzn.to/2vtpQWr
Ryan have you ever battled creeping Charlie? This is my second year on my lawn and it came out of nowhere. Spreads quite rapidly. I’m strongly against chemicals personally but not sure there is an organic control for this
Yes I have an probably will again this year. My neighbors yard is full of it and it does as the name suggests....creeps. I've used the broadleaf weed killers on it mainly but a surfactant mixed in is very important.
In the hottest part of summer, I end up with MOSTLY a crabgrass lawn The pre-emergent looks hard to find without mixed with fertilizer. So...I'm wondering if an acceptable defense would be to use the springtime to overseed like crazy, and apply milorganite regularly in hopes that the grass is strong enough to snuff out the crabgrass. Sound reasonable, or .....bad idea??
Thick grass will always help but it's a tough task seeding in the spring and not running into issues in the summer. There's some links I provided here on getting crabgrass preventer without fertilizer mixed in and those will work well. There should be something like that found locally as well, but you might have to search around.
Liking the new format! But hope to see you out and about in your awesome lawn too! :)
I can't wait. Been trying to put out some kind of content while I look outside a the frozen ground.
Hey Ryan, watching this video in preparation of 2022 season. I did a full lawn reno this fall. Would you recommend using a pre emergent this spring and evaluate my lawn for more seeding this fall? Or double down on the seeding this spring and build up good grass? I’m in Omaha, so roughly same weather as you guys get in Iowa. Thanks.
In the same boat and wondering the same thing
@@dereks3538 I’m literally stuck at a crossroads 😂. I’ve seen very compelling videos on either side. Monday I think I’ll go to my local turf store (Grasspad) and talk to them. Interestingly they offer a product (method more or less) that would allow me to do both a pre emergent and seed.
It really depends on your weed pressure from the past and how thick your lawn is right now. I typically don't put pre-emergent on a new renovation that was done in the fall and have not seen a lot of issues that couldn't be taken care of with post emergent if necessary.
@@ryanknorrlawncare extremely thin. Crabgrass pretty gnarly in the front yard
@@rclsu13 yeah definitely age old question. There are strategies for whichever way you want to go but I guess it depends how much you can stand looking at a super thin lawn 🤣
I just picked up Scotts crabgrass and gray weed from ace hardware in Chicago area for $17 just had tree cut down do trying to prevent crabgrass since it doesn't grow in the shade, also I spot spray with bayer concentrate works awesome
Thank you for sharing Ryan. Very helpful!
Hey Ryan great video very informative but I have a off the subject question I live in Michigan my daytime temperatures are getting around 50 degrees my night time temperatures are still in the mid-to-upper 30s my soil temperatures are around 43 degrees I'm really itching to get out there and aerate and put down a Scott's starter fertilizer with crabgrass and dandelion control but was wondering at what soil temperature should I aerate also I do not want to miss my soil temperature window where my pre-emergent will be effective any advice would be greatly appreciated
Just personally I would wait until the grass is actively growing a little more but then I get what you're saying with trying to time that out correctly. Aeration needs an actively growing lawn to be able to repair itself but if you did it early you would just want to make sure to get it watered sufficiently to help the repair process.
Go to www.gddtracker.net tells you the soil temps and when to put down stuff.
tom bob thanks for your help Tom I will definitely go on that website your information is greatly appreciated
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care thanks Ryan your information is always well received thank you for your time
Thanks for all the info really helps out.
You should put together a seasonal program using only the stuff at menards.
Thanks Ryan I appreciated the balanced view on this topic.
You're welcome.
Thank you for your great videos, I’m learning a lot from the work you do. Keep doing this, you’re doing a great job.
You're welcome. There's not much I enjoy more than talking about lawn care. Well, mowing is a little higher on the list. :)
Omg I can't get over how beautiful your yard looks at 3:15, it almost looks fake. I can't figure out how you did that type of pattern, I've never seen anything like it.
This video shows it - th-cam.com/video/_pw1vzRdujs/w-d-xo.html
@@ryanknorrlawncare so funny you responded so fast cause I just watched the striping video, I had no idea you could double mow.
An excellent discussion with many things I've never considered! My Bermuda lawn is technically established, but after taking good care of it for six years, it's still not as thick and resilient as I'd like, and I think its down to the poor quality of the soil the builder left after the house was finished. My soil is basically construction debris, but after years of mulching and augmenting, I'm starting to build a decent layer of topsoil. I had not considered that pre-emergent slightly impacts the root system, and now I'm considering not applying an early spring treatment this year based on your advice. (I do NOT have a significant weed issue, thankfully.) Do you think the pre-emergent impacts the root system even while the bermuda is dormant? Thanks again!
I would say that if you know your lawn and you're not seeing a ton of crabgrass then it will be up to you if you apply pre-emergent or not at that point. I have not used it in my yard for the past 3 season because the yard has been thick enough that I have not seen any issues with crabgrass. As for your specific lawn I would definitely recommend a soil test to figure out what's going on. That is going to be extremely valuable in figuring out a plan to improve your turf. Without it, you're sort of throwing things at it just guessing. I hope that helps!
@@ryanknorrlawncare It does, thanks! I'm trying to get my head wrapped around to what extent Bermuda is actively processing chemicals applied to it or around it when it's dormant. In any case, a soil test is a great idea, thanks!
I'm not a bermuda expert by any means but you have to think the plant is still alive even though it is in a dormant state.
@@ryanknorrlawncare I agree, from what I've read, the roots are still metabolizing their environment. Thanks!
thank you .finally someone mentioned pre-emegents, slow grass growth. 1 st time i used, i found out to late by trial , all these other channels say its the best thing for your yard! not true- if you are trin to fill bare spot by rhizomes and stolons. acts like a growth inhibitor == evidence, by spots i missed.
Great video, can you do a video on how you made your lawn the way it is now vs when you started?
I'll see what I can do.
Hi I live in Michigan have 2 dogs and our yard is in full sun what can I use are grass is always brown. Thank you
Ryan I have had a real problem with clover. It's taking over my yard. Any ideas on how to control this? Located in SW Ontario. Thanks!
Tenacity
Hi Ryan Do you have any tips or recommendations for poa annua spots on Kentucky bluegrass?
Any tips on how best to get rid of weeds/grass that is growing in a stone flowerbed? I noticed you have pebble instead of mulch in a flowerbed there, which is similar to what I have. I do have pets that will be in the area and am unsure of the most effective/safest way to eradicate the pesky vegetation. Only a few bushes are placed within the beds. Also, would just adding more stone help? Love your videos - any info would be helpful and appreciated.
It still seems to growth through the stone a lot but you could try a strong white vinegar if you wanted something natural. I have heard that works or otherwise round up is about the only way to kill weeds/grasses etc if you can't do it by hand.
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care Thanks for the speedy reply! Would pulling them by hand remove the roots, or would they still grow back? The white vinegar is a great idea! I’ll try that for sure. I’d thought of dumping more rock down to try to thicken the rock mulch layer. Do you think that would help? Some spots are less than an inch of rock *we bought the house a couple summers ago and he prior owners installed the rock without a barrier underneath.
I live in La Crosse WI. (I will say I'm still a Vikings fan as I grew up in MN). There is one side of my house that gets overgrown with crab grass in the summer. It gets a lot of sun in the mid summer months. Anyway, it's fall now, Oct, and all that crabgrass is dead and there's a thick dead nasty blanket of it. What should I do now in the fall when temps are cooler? I will note that the soil on this area under all of that is super fine dirt, kind of sandy. I tried seeding new grass in the spring and it started to look good but it was quickly overtaken by the crabgrass. So, now that's it's fall season and there is a blanket of dead crabgrass what the heck do I do??? Thanks so much!
What was the name of the chemical we should use if we want to get rid of crabgrass but pre and post emergent time-frames have past?
Thanks for this video. Great information. Can I use pre emergent and fertilizer on my lawn? I’d so how many weeks apart?
Yes and same time if you would like
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care thanks for quick reply.
What is best time to apply tenacity in PNW.?
Ryan,I have several big maple tress that the canopy and roots are robbing my grass from growing under. The dead grass area keeps getting bigger ever year. I live in Wisconsin with a heavy clay soil yard. Need your help. Any thoughts.Tony
I would landscape as much of that area as possible and not try to fight it. Otherwise, fine fescues grow best in shade. The issue is that those trees take all the nutrients and the grass struggles anyway
When is it best to use a pre amergant for the first time??
"Any care for in the last couple years"? Is 30 years long enough?
I’m tying to thicken the lawn .. should I apply prodiamine only in the spring b4 the temp reaches 55 and then reseed again in the fall with tenacity and NO prodiamine in the fall ?
Correct
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care last question: should I do a core arrogation every fall for for the next couple seasons until I get a thick lawn or just top seed ?
What happens to the yard if you go over the yearly max rates on the pre-emergents? Does the grass start to die?
I believe because they affect the existing roots of the grass you have it would probably start to show some damage at that point. I'm not sure how much though.
Thanks.
Ryan there is no doubt that you can grow a lawn without using Pre-emergents once it has been established and growing thick turf...my first home I lived in it for 8 years and never once use Pre-E...I also only applied fertilizer once in the spring and that St Aug grew threw September like crazy! However now at my new home I had to add my own sod...I installed it August 2017 and didn’t apply Pre-E till Feb 2018...didn’t get much crab grass or many grassy weeds...few sedges and Virginia Buttonweed...mine issue i have is with Dallisgrass! Never even heard of that stuff till this year...that stuff is tough to get rid of in St Aug...I’ve been brushing glyphosate and it works just time consuming! Also pull weeds here and there...Now that the St Aug is getting thicker I’m seeing less and less weeds...gonna hit it with Milo in July and should be good till fall application. Great Vid, sometimes chemicals are needed but less is best.
Does seed getting into landscape beds while overseeing grow and cause problems? Is so what do you do to make sure you don’t get any in the beds?
It can grow a few strands here and there. If you use a spreader with a guard on it on one side then you can prevent it somewhat from slinging into the landscaping. Otherwise what does grow you can just pull out by hand pretty easily when it's not established yet.
excellent video thank you
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Is this nefore of after you found tenacity? I thought you re big fan of tenacity.
Tenacity is only a temporary pre-emergent. Lasts 2-3 weeks when seeding
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care i see. But still effective in killing the crabs once it grows?
Thank you for the prompt response. how about the crabgrass root did not get pull, will they revive next spring?
Yes most likely it will.
Great video,Very informative , I haven't used a pre emergent yet, I might hold off yet this year.
But I can't wait for lawn season to start here in Wisconsin. Also looking forward to more great lawn videos this year.
I can't wait much longer! Thanks for watching.
there is a website that keeps track of things like ground temperature . All you do is put in your location
how do you identify what is a preemergent and what isnt? only thing im seeing on these products is the key word "weed preventer" that cant be the only thing, certain chemicals im looking for in the herbicide?
It's all in the video here. Prodiamine and Dithiopyr are the 2 most commons active ingredients used for pre-emergents.
Hey I have more weeds creeping in on a reno lawn past two years, what can I use to kill them and not the seeds I am using.
Kind of depends on what kind of weeds they are and if you are seeding again now or if it was done last fall.
I was planning to seed now, I have mixed lawn KBG, Rye and tall Fescue. I see crabgrass, dandelions, clover and A tall patchy grass that out grows the rest of the lawn. Some other weeds showing not sure what they are. It seems every year more keeps appearing and my turf starting to thin out. I had lawn care company last year but discontinued because since I am seeing more weeds than when I was doing myself. They aerated and seeded last year, handled fert and weed control. I did all the grass cutting at highest mower setting.
Very strange that they weren't able to take care of the weeds. Usually a company is using a bit more of the high end products that consumers just don't want to pay for. I would actually consider a different company to zap out the weeds and start from that point because if they are taking over then it will be a losing battle. Otherwise aerate and overseed multiple times a year until the grass starts outcompeting the weeds and mow tall as you are.
Thank you Ryan. Keep the vides going, I am learning a lot from them.
lots crab grass grow in my yard, they are drying out & turning brown,
I would assume they are dying. Question:
a, do I have to pull all roots (drying & turning brown) before I sow grass seeds?
b, roots still not get pullout, will they regrow in the spring?
c, when will be the best time to seed? late fall (end Oct) or now (mid September)?
d. how soon I can apply pre emergent after I sow grass seeds?
Thanks
I would check into using Tenacity when seeding. I have more info in my "how to seed a new lawn" video and it depends where you live but seeding can either be late already or just about the right time. I wouldn't use any pre-emergent this year (except Tenacity) and worry about crabgrass pre-emergent next spring.
Thank you for the prompt response. how about the crabgrass root did not get pull, will they revive next spring?
Thank you Ryan. Good info.
Ryan, I used Tenacity in the Fall for the first time and had good success, especially with the bad Goosegrass problem I had. It’s now approaching late February and I am starting to plan for spring. Wanting to use a pre emergent, such as Barricade/Prodiamine. Is there a significant difference between using granular or liquid? Also wondering if Tenacity can be used as a pre emergent. Thinking it might be a good option without using a surfactant so it gets into the soil easier. Thanks
Not really a significant difference for granular vs liquid other than if you are comfortable spraying, the prodiamine especially is much cheaper long term. Tenacity is a good pre-emergent for seeding, but it does not last long whereas the traditional pre-emergent will last for months and provide good prevention so I would go that route if you can.
@@ryanknorrlawncare thanks very much...
Can the barrier be broken if you rack?
Great information Ryan, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
How come you didn’t discuss tenacity in this?
Tenacity lasts weeks and is a temporary solution to pre-emergent
Ryan... been watching you for a while now. Thx for the info. I put on lesco stonewall 0-0-7 three weeks ago and have gotten a good amount of rain but some of the pellets haven’t dissolved. Our northeast snow was late to melt and it also snowed last week. What’s I rule if I want to put down some seed to thicken? I assume seed won’t grow if I put down may 1st? Any thoughts. If I didn’t break my ankle last fall I would be in a different position so need some advice if you can lend any.
Great video Ryan! Temp rollercoaster continues here in SE Michigan. Gonna give it a week or 2 and apply Lesco (pre-emergent). Temps are rising...but not soil temps as of yet. I heard your co-star in the background...lol.
Be safe Brotha!
Also from SE Michigan. What's with all this white bullshit?
Yep he wanted to let me know to quit talking!
MSU is saying SE Michigan is entering the ideal time to put down Pre-Emergent. www.gddtracker.net
Make sure you're checking that or doing soil temp tests.
Hey ryan what is that weather app that tells you soil temperatures please?
greencast
@@ryanknorrlawncare Thanks
what are your suggestions on grub control,,when is the ideal time to spread??
This should give you some info on that - msue.anr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn
So can you apply a pre emergent after fall seeding? I am almost 4 weeks out of seeding and would love to apply some pre emergent.
Remember dandelion is a perennial! The roots remain long after the flower is gone. Consider adding Defendor to compliment Dimension!
Good info. Thanks!
Very helpful tips. I am in North texas. I have missed pre emergent in the fall. In last 5 years i have never applied pre-emergent but i am facing crab grass.Can i still it in mid/late decemeber ? please suggest.
I would just wait until spring and then make sure to get down your app before soil temps reach 55 degrees
What do I do with a lawn that has a lot of “old school” (ky31) tall fescue? It’s 70 or 80% kbg mix but still dealing with sections that are ugly. Is my only option to kill them and renovate?
I had some of that mixed in mine as well and had to kill it or hand dig it out.
How long after using a pre emergent can you throw down grass seed?
Most pre-emergent will last months so you have to factor that in if you plan on using seed.
If we put pre emergent down what do you recommend for pets like dogs? Are these products ok?
What are your thoughts about a broad spectrum weed control (post) called weed beater ultra?
Craig Matson spot spray is better unless you have a lot of large weed areas....I spot spray if needed and pull weeds as I go along
I'm not familiar with it but ingredients look very similar to the other broadleaf weed killers.
Great stuff Ryan! Will you be mowing lower this year? Have you seen Connor Ward's channel... His KBG looks amazing real low.
There may or may not be a surprise coming up in the next few weeks. :) And yes, I have been talking to Connor and really enjoy his channel.
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care uh oh... reel mower?!? Would love to see your yard low like that
maybe.... ;)
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care can't wait
I tried it.. it just gets too hot here to mow that low. My grass just turned brown and wilted through the hot summer months Ward is awesome.. but remember he has to mow 2 to 3 times a week.
The new spectrazide spray works wonders on weeds
Have a link to it?
hi ryan, if im planting plugs through out my yard, would the pre emergent be a disadvantage since you mentioned that it would inhibit root growth?
Hi Ryan I'm kind of confuse when to apply my pre emergent, I live in South Florida is October already but the temperature here is kind of high still , do I need to wait for the soil temperature to be 50* , or can I apply it now with no problem, I'm new to this just wanted to do it right, thanks for your videos
I had a bad problem with Poa Annua last season. What would be the best way to control it?
Prodiamine is listed to help prevent poa annua. It's also going to be necessary to apply that in the fall as poa germinates in the fall when soil temps fall below 70 degrees. This has some more info on the topic - www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-41-W.pdf
Great video brother, thank you for the information.
Hi Ryan, Couple of questions for you. I consider them to be a little harder to answer, But lets see if you got what it takes lol
1.i am applying a pre emergent to an area where water source won't reach(1,000 sq ft). Could I go back over with my sprayer filled with just water to water it in?
2. I know pre emergent stops seeds from germination. Does it actually kill the seeds or will the seed just sit there until the pre emergent wears off?
1. Needs to be watered in a 1/2 inch so you would to have a water source there to provide enough to properly water in
2. It creates a vapor barrier so the seeds start to grow and then the root system is not allowed to progress any farther and they die off
@@ryanknorrlawncare on #1 another person said I would be ok. And I think hes right, because I seen a video that mentioned commercial spray companies dont water in their pre emergent applications when they apply. They let mother nature do it and they are fine. You're thoughts?
@@randyman8984 you have usually 14 days according to most labels (but check your specific product) to have it watered in 1/2" but it's always preferred to water in if you can so that you know for sure you create the barrier you need right away without waiting and also your product is not wasted in the event it doesn't get watered in within the specified time. Lawn care companies certainly have things that they have to do that are not always ideal, but as homeowners we have more control so I always try to recommend to use that to your advantage if possible.
@@ryanknorrlawncare thanks
Hey Ryan I am ready to put down my pre emergents. I live by NYC and we are getting low 60s during the day and 40s at night. I have a company coming to trim trees on my property and imagine they are going to be walking and dragging branches all over. Is it more important to get it down now or should I wait another 3 days till there's no traffic on the lawn? Thanks
I would say it should be fine to get down now but just make sure to water it in. It needs to be watered in at least a 1/2" of water to send it down into the soil.
Great video Ryan!
Thanks!
what about corn gluten meal? after all it's Iowa State's pride and joy
That's true. It would be an option but I've heard mixed results.
Agreed on the mixed results; the "throw down" rate is substantial and that stuff is expensive. Im pretty frugal with it myself. I tend to throw down more in problem areas. Its a good spring fertilizer too.
Awesome info thanks Ryan! So if I’m using prodiamine and spraying it with a back pack I still have to water it in?
Correct. The label will tell you for sure but it usually needs to be activated with at least .5 inches of water.
Great stuff Ryan!
Thanks!
can I use quinclorac 75df & still seed & if not how long would I have to wait.
Check the label.
Does anyone have a suggestion for getting crabgrass out of a newly renovated fescue lawn it's about a month old now and I have grab grass starting to go crazy.. I put down Scott's starter fert with crabgrass and weed preventer...and it's not doing so well .....any help out there?
Tenacity could probably help you out. Check out my video on "how to seed a lawn" to learn a little more about it.
I'm trying to build up areas where I had crabgrass for a year. I killed the crabgrass with quinclorac last year caused it had already grown. I seeded the areas last fall with lesco starter fertilizer , milo and patchmaster. Still not growing. Had a lot of rain in Pennsylvania so far. What advice can you give?
Check out a video on my channel for how to fix bare spots to see my method
I live in New England, just planted new grass seed in my backyard 3 weeks ago. Grass is coming along but I’m starting to get weeds I suspect from a neighbors yard. Can I use pre emergent with this young grass, also it being July
You'll want to use Tenacity or the scotts starter fert that has same active ingredient mixed in it
Thanks!
Hi, I live in New Mexico and have a “park blend” grass type, and it is very patchy. Would you recommend over seeding with fescue seed (fall or spring)? Or should I pull all the grass out and install sod? Btw, I’ve already put down Scott’s Turf Builder with Crabgrass Control.
If you have used pre-emergent you won't be able to seed or put down something new right at this moment...it usually lasts for months at a minimum
Ryan Knorr Lawn Care thank you for the response. However, in the fall, would you recommend over seeding, or putting down new sod?
GREAT video and info! Thanks!
How do i control Goosegrass?
are the herbicides really good for your health?
Great video. Thanks so much. Very helpful.
Any suggestions for new sod.
I don't have much experience with sod but the lawn care nut does have a video on it : th-cam.com/video/gzE6-L3E_A4/w-d-xo.html
New sod has extremely shallow root system. Herbicides prohibit the root growth. I would wait until 6-8 weeks for the new sod roots to establish into underlying soil. You spent good amount of money for sod, I wouldn’t chance spreading a pre m right now. You can always spot spray later in season.
Hi question I can't just get crabgrass prevent around by me only comes with furlitzer. Would you put it down when temps hit right and then throw down milorganite may 30th or is that going to be to much. I live by green bay wi.
If that's the only option then that plan would work. Just keep up with the mowing with that spring flush of growth.
Ok thanks for the help I have a 1\2 acre yard and will be 2 years old this spring. Looking to Dominate my Neighbors using your info.
What about Tenacity? Its a wonderful pre/post emergent and you can actually apply it to brand new seed as well as per the bottles label