Repair cracked aluminum block w/Marine JB Weld. Oil leak on BMW M54 engine post head gasket repair.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- If you are experiencing oil leaks or water leaks in your BMW M54 engine after you have replaced your head gasket with thread inserts this could be the cause of your problem. Very difficult to find. We used Marine Weld from JB Weld to repair the problem.
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Excellent. That prep looks like a winner. Gonna try this on a pressure washer that has a crack in it’s housing. Thanks!
Did it wrk
It worked for 3 years and then sold the car.
Awesome vid and edits and filming and cars
Appreciate it!
I've got a 2004 Toyota Sienna that has a hole in the (6 cyl, aluminum) block a few inches from the oil pump, due to someone putting too long of a bolt through the AC compressor attachment bracket. Finally got the oil leak diagnosed today. The bolt had pushed a flap of the wall of an oil tube on the block inward a couple of mm. The shop is going to see whether or not a welder will quote to repair the hole with the engine in place (after removing the radiator and a bunch of other stuff to give him access). If not, or if the overall quote is too much for me to stomach after all the other money I've thrown at this vehicle in the past year, then we are looking at a temporizing measure like JB Weld. Thoughts? If I end up going the JB Weld route, am I looking at living with an oil leak, or re-doing the JB Weld every couple of years, or what? Thanks.
That is 1 cleannn engine bay👍
Only clean after a lot of brake cleaner to get to the underlying issue!
I just asked a dealer if I might fix a leak on the oil pump cover on my Yamaha R1 with JP Weld. It seems my bike has been leaking out of that cover and into the belly pan after an accident which scraped down the edge and one of the screws which secures it to the gasket. The dealer said: "JB Weld? That NEVER works - I've seen it a THOUSAND times." Which I interpreted as meaning it probably will work. Aka "stealerships". So thank you for this video.
I don’t think JB is a miracle fix, but it’s worth a shot. Depending on the damage you may want to use RTV as the base and add JB on top after it has cured.
Hey Mike thanks for the video. The 2 holes you drilled on each side of the hair line crack.... approximately how deep did you drill those 2 holes?
They should be as almost as deep as the crack, but obviously not through the entire aluminum wall. I think they were about 3-4mm deep.
@@mikepetersen3 Thanks for the help. About to try to repair this crack.
Nice video! Question did it work?
Hey friend, just did this to my transmission case. However, I did not drill any holes. How bad did I mess up? Wish I would have looked for this video before doing it. Great video production.
The holes prevent further cracking. However, your stress fracture may be at a point where no further cracking will happen irregardless of the holes. I wouldn’t lose any sleep over it, just keep an eye on it. Worst case, if it starts to leak, you can always redo the repair.
I have a similar problem on my accord but my mechanic said he would have to drop the engine because he can't access the crack he can only see it thru a reflective mirror which is gonna cost 1500$ a lot of money I might as well engine swap it. Any recommendations please let me know
I do not know the layout of the accord engine, nor where the crack is located. You mechanic may be correct... Sorry I cant be more specific.
So, did it work? I have similar issue on Honda AL block
Nice repair - But I think the Huhn solutions insert - which is considerably longer than the time-sert insert - caused this crack. A longer insert goes deeper into a thinner part of the engine block.
This likely would not have happened with a time-sert.
You may be correct, but the time CERT inserts have a problem of pull out for Weik blocks. If they pull out, now, you are going to a secondary re-tapping process that has its own list of issues.
When are you going to post on how the repair is going?
Repair worked, with minor leakage. If I were to do it again I would add RTV to the crack first, to prevent any oil seepage, and then add the 2 part Marine JB Weld.
The only “jb marine weld” I could find was in a syringe “white” color but yours is a dark gray, ive got a coolant leakage from the side of an cast aluminum cylinder head on a gm ls engine. Would this be ok? I’m planning on letting it sit for a week
Mine was not in a syringe. www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8272-MarineWeld-Marine/dp/B000KKPFFA/ref=sr_1_3_pp
The exact same thing happened to my M54 engine. Maybe it isn't a good idea to put inserts in this motor? BTW my engine has never overheated, I've owned it since new.
Thanks for pointing this out. I assume my crack was due to the overheat, but it may be a week point in the block for all engines, even those that have never experienced high temps.
Can i do the same to stop coolant leaking from my engine block? I am planning to use JB steelstick though
it should work as long as the oil is not coming from a high pressure zone, i.e near an oil feed channel
@Mike Petersen Oil isn't coming out. But unfortunately, steel stick didn't hold. Coolant still drips.
The holes we need to drill to other side?
Correct, to relieve the stress risers.
did gasket on Peugeot KFW engine, now coolant weeping from 3 spots on the block!
Is there a question in here? Sorry...
no I was saying I replaced the gasket but the block weeps (engine was overheated) car still working, just needs coolant every week, would be impossible to weld the block as the holes are invisible@@mikepetersen3
I just did this to my transmission drain plug area ... the plug area cracked and would leak ... it was a used car I bought so I'm not bothered ... you live and learn right ..
Anyways I drained the trans for hours , clean it with brake cleaner and soap and water , dried it , applied silicone on the the threads of my new drain plug and inserted it .. then I layer a coat of jb weld in the crack to make sure it doesn't leak anymore .... problem solved ..
I can always unplug a transmission line from the radiator to drain and fill lol 😆
I'm not paying someone to do it or swapping it if it isn't broken broken
Hell Yea
How was the weld ?
What kind of marine weld u used ?
The world lasted several years. I have since sold the car. I used marine JB Weld. I believe there is only one variety o this product.
It the jb weld hold up through the time ?
I sold the car 1 year ago, but it held up as long as I owned it.
Hey like what’s the current condition now?
7 months, still no apparent degradation.
@@mikepetersen3 your amazing man thanks!
@@mikepetersen3 Nice. I just did mine where an oil cooler line enters the head. It was pouring oil out on a Toyota 3.5l. Saw the hairline crack at the place where a banjo bolt goes on the engine block. Appears dealer cracked it as the bolt had a sleeve on it. I guess I found my ages old oil leak LOL. 40 psi per specs. Day 3, holding. I used high temp epoxy. I never thought of using marine JB weld.
7 months later, any issues?
7 months, no issues... (or leaks)
@@mikepetersen3 I'm faced with a small crack in the back housing of my tranny on the overdrive side causing a slow leak. You could possibly save me thousands of dollars.
Clean the surface as much as you can before you apply the epoxy. Brake cleaner is cheap ;-). Report back here if the repair works.
Hi dose it work..? Thanks
After 60 days of use, it is still sealed. No apparent loss of oil, water or oil/water mixing.
@@mikepetersen3 thanks
How is this holding up so far?
Still holding
Update?
Still holding.
Fix your engine with glue ha ha.
Next time you need help, I hope nobody offers you creative ideas to fix your problem.
Don’t do it.
So how would you suggest to fix the crack that leaks oil as it’s near an oil passage line?
@@mikepetersen3 he would hire it out. You would do it the good old fashioned way which works just fine! Well done sir