I'm in the northwest. Of course heat is king here. I was amazed to find that in soCal they used the same size furnace as we do. They say the people want their heat fast when they need it! GFM
Wow- very interesting to see here- those high limit switch in terms of the temperature, absolutely awesome info to know in terms of how the heat works and the stages of heat.
I Don't Do Much Heat out here in cali. Mainly a Refrigeration Man. Good to See the other stuff. been a while since i've done some strip heat. used to do it when i first started out a long time ago. Been Doing HVACR since 1981.
I have an older Bryant 961-010 10kw electric furnace. It was operated with a clogged filter. I first replaced a limit switch that had failed. NO difference. The upper element had failed. the inline fuses are still OK so I have ordered a heating element kit. 2ea 5,000 watt strings. The limit switches appear to be the same but one is an L120-3-J6V and the other one is an R6V. Since they both open at 120, I'm assuming they're both really the same. It is just the position of the switch in the mounting plate that is different. Anyway, thanks for the video.
If the limits are bad and no fuse in the unit, will the building get fire? How does gas version work? Do you have a video on that? Thank you for your Great videos
Why do you suppose an electric furnace would continue to running a heat cycle when the thermostat has already stopped calling for Heat? It appears that it would just keep putting out heat and never stop if I didn’t just shut the breaker off. FYI, I have already swapped out the sequencer and I swapped out the relay for the fan. I started to swap out the limit switches but now I only had two of the three available at the time I ordered another but it’s not here yet.
TYVM for your excellent videos. Here's my EB23B story: I noticed that the laundry room was very hot. I felt the furnace door panel and it was hot. The fan was off. I lifted off the door and felt the squirrel cage fan housing and it was extremely hot. I turned off the breaker for the element and turned on the fan manually. The fan housing cooled off. My diagnosis (thanks to you) is I have a bad sequencer; one element is stuck on. Also, I must have a bad high-temp limit breaker switch because the element stayed on. How did I do?
+grayfurnaceman I replaced the sequencer, no problems but it still has one or more elements on when it is just resting. (no fan and no demand from the thermostat). I'm baffled.
+grayfurnaceman I'm pretty sure you are correct. I put my clamp-on meter on each wire and saw which one had current while the furnace was off. I'm guessing it was only 110v going backwards through the element to ground. Would that explain why the heat limits had no effect (not enough heat to trip it)? Question: I pulled the wire that goes from the breaker directly to one side of the element. Can I run the furnace this way? If so, how long? FYI the Part number on the pair of elements is 3500-411.
+Blog Idaho You got it. I would not recommend running it. I am not sure the elements are available. You can get a restring kit that will probably work. I did a video on installing a restring kit. GFM
Hi sir ! I really appreciate yours video 😊!! I keep trying fix my furnace My furnace have limit switch whit a brass long contact 60t11 201728 c8730 l170 -40 But I am not able to find one in my area I order 1 on internet My question is this limit switch have only to 2 contactor but not the long brass bracket can I replace whit a pieces of wires whit contactor both side and plug them to replace the fact it's missing the brass bracket ?? Thank you very much for the answer ! Have a good day!
Having issues with my furnace blower has been replaced, circuit board, relays, thermostat. Not sure what else HVAC guy replaced still getting cold air. I noticed that there is a lot of rust buildup on the nuts that attach to the white part of the limit switch could this be the problem.
Good afternoon; I appreciate your video and time for community. I have 2 silly questions. 1- I have 3 different temp limits L210, L160 and L155 Question: Can I replace all of them to same L210? 2- My fan blow cold Air at first and stop after little time when elements are off. Question: is this normal, if not then what should I do?
Inzal Sports The limits should not be interchanged because the manufacturer has determined a higher limit will be unsafe. That said, the L210 sounds too high and may have been an attempt to fix an overheat problem. You have probably had a long standing problem with low air flow. Plugged filter, dirty fan blade or restrictive ductwork. As for the cold air, you probably have the first element not coming on. It could be burned wire, failed sequencer or open limit. Remember, high voltage here, be sure the power is off. The questions are not silly. Hope this helps. GFM
Im sure duds can be bought but what are the odds 2 brand new carrier limits being bad? On an electric 15kw unit only 1 strip works continuously. Narrowed problem to 2 bad limiters, ordered 2 new replacements online and having same issue, no matter their placement in the unit. I moved the one good old limiter around to test coils and it works flawlessly. The old bad ones and the replacements only work for a few seconds before tripping. around 90degrees.
Had one of my thermal switches burn up and need to get a new one. How do you tell what temperature the limit switch should be. No mark or stickers on mine. I have seen 120-190. Also should I replace all four of them? Older Wesco Electric heater 960k. Says max air output 200 degrees with air intake 77
SombraLocs The best way is to check it is to fire up the furnace, check to see which elements do not energize. The check across the limit with a voltmeter. Voltage read, limit is open. no voltage, limit is closed or there is an open somewhere else in the circuit. Hope this helps. GFM
If the limit stays closed (switches are closed when current can pass thru), even though there is an overheat, the last thing you need to worry about is burned wires. The result will be that the element fuse will blow and shut down the element. If there is no element fuse, a fire could result. Burned wires are from poor connections. GFM
My Intertherm furnace came with the 903906 15Kw element which has only 1 limit switch. A repairman replaced my element with a 9.6Kw element that has 2 limit switches. I want to use the original type of element again because it is much more efficient but I'm not sure how to connect the 1 limit switch. Could you please help me?
David Griggs Are you sure you want to do that? The efficiency of one element of larger size is the same as a smaller one. It just runs a shorter time. The limit switch originally supplied was probably in the low voltage circuit which is not as safe as the integral ones on the newer ones. So, I would leave it alone. GFM
Great videos sir! I'm having trouble with my electric furnace recently , it will sometimes only blow cold air. I have tested the continuity on all 3 limit switch and 1 of them looks to be always tripped even when cold. Is there a way I can bypass element/limit switch (#2of3) so only element 1 and 3 work. I can't change the limit switch right now, that's why I want my furnace to work like that temporarely. Thank you
First, is your filter clean? Blower wheel dirty? All diffusers open? Ductwork in good condition? There is no point in disconnecting one element if the limit switch is open. The limit has done that for you. If you get low heat from the diffusers, there is either a sequencer that is sticking part time or an overheat condition causing one of the limits to open. GFM
@@grayfurnaceman how would I find what that switch is. This old furnace has no paperwork or diagrams to help me figure anything out. Not even an ID plate to find out the model
I know I'm late to the video so hopefully someone can answer my question so my limit switch the bottom one um looks like the wire got hot matter of fact where the wire connects to the limit switch was red I have not turned it back on obviously because it needs to be fixed but my question is should I be able to change that limit switch and not have to worry about the new one burning like that? And if so when I replace it do I need to install the new switch open or closed or does it not matter? Sorry but wouldn't call Myself an electrician so looking for info and advice
The limits are not designed to open continuously because of a failure of another part or a plugged filter. First, the limit and the wire must be replaced. Then find out why the element overheated. Could be a stuck on sequencer, or a plugged filter. GFM
I have an electric fan coil system that has electric 5k elements. 208v the wire from switching relay to the electric element keeps burning. If it's not the wire then it's the relay coil. Using correct wire. What would cause the wires to keep burning ? could a bad temp limit switch do that?
Burned wires come from poor connections. If the terminals the wires to connect to have overheated, the terminals and/or the relay may need to be replaced. GFM
I have a furnace limit switch I need to replace on a Goodman Furnace. The limit switch is rated at 210 degrees but I can't find that exact switch. I can get a similar one but it's rated at 290 degrees. Will that be a problem if I use that?
Hello Sir.I have a Coleman Eb15b furnace.When it's running the heat is like a cool warm and it runs all day but never reaches a temp of 75 in the mobile home.I have checked the sequences and the element and both are working fine.Can you tell me where would be a good point to look next.Thank you in advance
That furnace has 3 elements. You almost certainly have 2 of the elements not working. Could be open element, open limit, open element fuse. You could also have a tripped breaker. GFM
I checked the breakers.Did the element test with the blower out so they where working fine.It has two 5kw elements.I also cleaned the blower while I had it out.So all that being said would it be a pretty good guess to say that the limit is bad.
I prefer the manual reset limit, mostly because it allows the service tech to easily troubleshoot with out having to find replacements for parts. Both types of limit are effective in shutting down a system under rollout conditions. GFM
@@electriccar3253 Thanks. I have an electric furnace. The blower motor failed and at the same time two heating elements in the heat strip failed. Which means it got hot. My concern is the limit switches getting stuck closed!
@@DavidJohnson-tv2nn If you have had a motor failure, I would recommend replacement of all automatic reset limits. If you have inline limit fuses, they cannot be replaced with manual reset limits. GFM
@@electriccar3253 Again, thanks. I have three 5kw heating elements. I was going to replace the limit switches on the two elements that failed. I will take your advise and replace all three limit switches. Currently, the limits are auto reset with no thermal fuses inline. I'm leaning toward replacing them with manual reset. So if there is another issue they will trip out and stay out until I or someone can have a look at the problem. Or do you think auto reset limits will be ok? I have a problem trusting them to work properly after the last incident. Don't want to burn down my crappy house.
Last year the blower stopped but the elements stayed on had to shut it off at the breaker. This year it blows lukewarm air . Did it burn up an element?
freddy hidalgo Only if the temp is the same. It should have a number presided by a letter L. Example: L145-40. It means limit switch, 145F, 40F differential. If that number is the same, it ok. Any other, no. Hope this helps.GFM
should the high heat limit switch on my electric furnace be opening and closing? Should not the blower be producing enough air flow to keep it closed? Its a 2 speed blower...high and low speed.....it's wired for high speed and it's heat only no AC.....
+Walking in the light for Yeshua You almost certainly have an airflow problem. Dirty filter, plugged blower wheel, ductwork problems or diffuser valves closed. Hope this helps. GFM
grayfurnaceman GFM.....I pulled the blower and cleaned it ....it wasn't dirty at all .....it also has a clean filter......and it doesn't have a diffuser valve so I'm with you on this one...It has got to be a duct work problem....thank you so much for replying.....
grayfurnaceman GFM.....I think i have figured out the problem......this is a 15kw furnance.....it has a 10kw set on a single limit with a double stack switch....and it has 5kw on a single limit switch.....Im having trouble with the double stack single limit switch kicking on and off on and off.......the 5kw is working fine...so I changed out the 10kw limit switch...it had a 150F in it ....and it was doing the same thing...on and off on and off...I put a 165F back in it because that was all I could get.....at the time......and it is doing the same thing on and off on and off......well.....just checked the single limit switch that is on the 5kw element by its self.....and it is a 190F and it is working fine.....I think some one had changed out the 10kw limit switch at some time and replace it with the wrong temp ......My problem is I can't find out what is the original temp limit switch that is suppose to be in it.....it is a Intertherm (Nordyne) E2EH 015.....is there some way you can help me out with this original part....what temp should it be??? Im thinking the 165 is just way to low and that is why it is opening and closing
grayfurnaceman I think your right.....I checked the single 5kw and it has a 190F limit switch on it and it is working fine.....Thanks for your time GFM.....
I had a call that her furnace would shut off at night. To make a long story short. I ended up pulling the blower and cleaned off years of pack down dirt (it doesn't rattle anymore), and checked all sequencers, and limit switches, and I replaced 2/ 60 amp fuses. It's a Coleman 3500A series 15K. I don't understand why the blower has a 4 to 5 minute delay on an electric furnace. I've never worked on One that had a blower delay................is there a problem that I don't know about? .............other than that the furnace works fine.
+grayfurnaceman It's what I thought. It's a 1993 furnace and who ever worked on it over the years made it look like spaghetti inside. I'm a retired HVAC Tech, and I only do this for seniors with low income, and I don't charge, unless it's an expensive part. So I would have to follow the blower wire from the harness to a sequencer?
Hi...don't know if you're still responding to comments or not but I have an issue of my heat will not turn off even when AC is on. Duct work is great and a brand new thermostat installed since the issue started. Also clean filters....Does this sound like bad limit switches is the problem? Does this mean that they're "stuck closed"? Thank you for any info. Model FY4ANF036010AAAA Name CARRIER RNC FAN COIL UNIT
Electric elements are mostly controlled by sequencers, which have a tendency to stick closed. If it does stick, the limit switch will shut is off, but the switch will eventually fail. In other words, get it fixed. GFM
I have an electronic trip furnace that will other come on. I replaced the thermostat and still furnace will not come on. I jumped the red and white wire still no heat. Fan functions in on position but not in auto position. Furnace fired up one time last night and shut off properly. It fired up again later but didn't blow any heat. Any suggestions? Thought it might be the heat elements but watching the video I am not sure. Thanks, Gary
I have a Coleman Evcon EB15B that heats fine, but the cooling down fan won't turn off. I have replaced the thermostat and it's still doing it. Any suggestions??
Another great demonstration video. Really enjoyed the "slow-mo" part of the safety switch opening up.
Thanks for the support.
GFM
I'm in the northwest. Of course heat is king here. I was amazed to find that in soCal they used the same size furnace as we do. They say the people want their heat fast when they need it!
GFM
Wow- very interesting to see here- those high limit switch in terms of the temperature, absolutely awesome info to know in terms of how the heat works and the stages of heat.
I Don't Do Much Heat out here in cali. Mainly a Refrigeration Man. Good to See the other stuff. been a while since i've done some strip heat. used to do it when i first started out a long time ago. Been Doing HVACR since 1981.
Awesome channel
I have an older Bryant 961-010 10kw electric furnace. It was operated with a clogged filter. I first replaced a limit switch that had failed. NO difference. The upper element had failed. the inline fuses are still OK so I have ordered a heating element kit. 2ea 5,000 watt strings.
The limit switches appear to be the same but one is an L120-3-J6V and the other one is an R6V. Since they both open at 120, I'm assuming they're both really the same. It is just the position of the switch in the mounting plate that is different. Anyway, thanks for the video.
Very informative and helpful. Thank you very much.
Thermodisk is a brand name. And they are a bimetal formed into a disk that pops open when the temp gets high enough.
GFM
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Welcome
GFM
If the limits are bad and no fuse in the unit, will the building get fire? How does gas version work? Do you have a video on that? Thank you for your Great videos
Why do you suppose an electric furnace would continue to running a heat cycle when the thermostat has already stopped calling for Heat? It appears that it would just keep putting out heat and never stop if I didn’t just shut the breaker off. FYI, I have already swapped out the sequencer and I swapped out the relay for the fan. I started to swap out the limit switches but now I only had two of the three available at the time I ordered another but it’s not here yet.
TYVM for your excellent videos. Here's my EB23B story: I noticed that the laundry room was very hot. I felt the furnace door panel and it was hot. The fan was off. I lifted off the door and felt the squirrel cage fan housing and it was extremely hot. I turned off the breaker for the element and turned on the fan manually. The fan housing cooled off. My diagnosis (thanks to you) is I have a bad sequencer; one element is stuck on. Also, I must have a bad high-temp limit breaker switch because the element stayed on. How did I do?
+Blog Idaho Looks good. Even if the limit switch was still operational, I would replace it just for safeties sake.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman I replaced the sequencer, no problems but it still has one or more elements on when it is just resting. (no fan and no demand from the thermostat).
I'm baffled.
+Blog Idaho Possibly one of the elements is shorted to ground. The sequencer only cuts out one side of power.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman I'm pretty sure you are correct. I put my clamp-on meter on each wire and saw which one had current while the furnace was off. I'm guessing it was only 110v going backwards through the element to ground. Would that explain why the heat limits had no effect (not enough heat to trip it)?
Question: I pulled the wire that goes from the breaker directly to one side of the element. Can I run the furnace this way? If so, how long?
FYI the Part number on the pair of elements is 3500-411.
+Blog Idaho You got it. I would not recommend running it. I am not sure the elements are available. You can get a restring kit that will probably work. I did a video on installing a restring kit.
GFM
My heater in mobile home wont shut off when its reaches the set temp would this mean a bad limit switch?
Yep, this is the Land of We Want Everything Fast here!
I have seen them on the web. Also, Local HVAC contractors will have them.
GFM
Hi sir !
I really appreciate yours video 😊!!
I keep trying fix my furnace
My furnace have limit switch whit a brass long contact 60t11 201728 c8730 l170 -40
But I am not able to find one in my area I order 1 on internet
My question is this limit switch have only to 2 contactor but not the long brass bracket can I replace whit a pieces of wires whit contactor both side and plug them to replace the fact it's missing the brass bracket ??
Thank you very much for the answer !
Have a good day!
Good Video!
Having issues with my furnace blower has been replaced, circuit board, relays, thermostat. Not sure what else HVAC guy replaced still getting cold air. I noticed that there is a lot of rust buildup on the nuts that attach to the white part of the limit switch could this be the problem.
Cool, slo Mo!
I am looking for the high temp limits with the L145. I can not find it.
Good afternoon; I appreciate your video and time for community. I have 2 silly questions.
1- I have 3 different temp limits L210, L160 and L155 Question: Can I replace all of them to same L210?
2- My fan blow cold Air at first and stop after little time when elements are off. Question: is this normal, if not then what should I do?
Inzal Sports The limits should not be interchanged because the manufacturer has determined a higher limit will be unsafe. That said, the L210 sounds too high and may have been an attempt to fix an overheat problem. You have probably had a long standing problem with low air flow. Plugged filter, dirty fan blade or restrictive ductwork.
As for the cold air, you probably have the first element not coming on. It could be burned wire, failed sequencer or open limit. Remember, high voltage here, be sure the power is off. The questions are not silly. Hope this helps.
GFM
Im sure duds can be bought but what are the odds 2 brand new carrier limits being bad? On an electric 15kw unit only 1 strip works continuously. Narrowed problem to 2 bad limiters, ordered 2 new replacements online and having same issue, no matter their placement in the unit. I moved the one good old limiter around to test coils and it works flawlessly. The old bad ones and the replacements only work for a few seconds before tripping. around 90degrees.
Your problem is not the limits, the problem is airflow. Dirty filter, blower wheel, A/C coil or ductwork problems.
GFM
Had one of my thermal switches burn up and need to get a new one. How do you tell what temperature the limit switch should be. No mark or stickers on mine. I have seen 120-190. Also should I replace all four of them? Older Wesco Electric heater 960k. Says max air output 200 degrees with air intake 77
Are you sure there is no marking? It is sometimes stamped into the mounting ears.
GFM
How do you test to see if the high limit switch is bad? Do you just check for continuity? or is there several ways to test them?
SombraLocs The best way is to check it is to fire up the furnace, check to see which elements do not energize. The check across the limit with a voltmeter. Voltage read, limit is open. no voltage, limit is closed or there is an open somewhere else in the circuit. Hope this helps.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman can the limit ever be faulty and stay open , causing the heaters to keep running and that can possibly burn out wires ?
If the limit stays closed (switches are closed when current can pass thru), even though there is an overheat, the last thing you need to worry about is burned wires.
The result will be that the element fuse will blow and shut down the element. If there is no element fuse, a fire could result.
Burned wires are from poor connections.
GFM
What year was that furnace made
thank you
My Intertherm furnace came with the 903906 15Kw element which has only 1 limit switch. A repairman replaced my element with a 9.6Kw element that has 2 limit switches. I want to use the original type of element again because it is much more efficient but I'm not sure how to connect the 1 limit switch. Could you please help me?
David Griggs Are you sure you want to do that? The efficiency of one element of larger size is the same as a smaller one. It just runs a shorter time. The limit switch originally supplied was probably in the low voltage circuit which is not as safe as the integral ones on the newer ones. So, I would leave it alone.
GFM
Great videos sir! I'm having trouble with my electric furnace recently
, it will sometimes only blow cold air. I have tested the continuity on all 3 limit switch and 1 of them looks to be always tripped even when cold. Is there a way I can bypass element/limit switch (#2of3) so only element 1 and 3 work. I can't change the limit switch right now, that's why I want my furnace to work like that temporarely. Thank you
First, is your filter clean? Blower wheel dirty? All diffusers open? Ductwork in good condition? There is no point in disconnecting one element if the limit switch is open. The limit has done that for you. If you get low heat from the diffusers, there is either a sequencer that is sticking part time or an overheat condition causing one of the limits to open.
GFM
Do these switches also control telling the fan to come on when set to Auto and heat is on?
Generally no. The fan on most furnaces is started with the same switch as the first element to come on.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman how would I find what that switch is. This old furnace has no paperwork or diagrams to help me figure anything out. Not even an ID plate to find out the model
I know I'm late to the video so hopefully someone can answer my question so my limit switch the bottom one um looks like the wire got hot matter of fact where the wire connects to the limit switch was red I have not turned it back on obviously because it needs to be fixed but my question is should I be able to change that limit switch and not have to worry about the new one burning like that? And if so when I replace it do I need to install the new switch open or closed or does it not matter? Sorry but wouldn't call Myself an electrician so looking for info and advice
The limits are not designed to open continuously because of a failure of another part or a plugged filter. First, the limit and the wire must be replaced. Then find out why the element overheated. Could be a stuck on sequencer, or a plugged filter.
GFM
I have an electric fan coil system that has electric 5k elements. 208v the wire from switching relay to the electric element keeps burning. If it's not the wire then it's the relay coil. Using correct wire. What would cause the wires to keep burning ? could a bad temp limit switch do that?
Burned wires come from poor connections. If the terminals the wires to connect to have overheated, the terminals and/or the relay may need to be replaced.
GFM
these are called Thermodisc right?
I have a furnace limit switch I need to replace on a Goodman Furnace. The limit switch is rated at 210 degrees but I can't find that exact switch. I can get a similar one but it's rated at 290 degrees. Will that be a problem if I use that?
James Van Rooy Yes. You need one of the same temp. Safety hazard.
GFM
Hello Sir.I have a Coleman Eb15b furnace.When it's running the heat is like a cool warm and it runs all day but never reaches a temp of 75 in the mobile home.I have checked the sequences and the element and both are working fine.Can you tell me where would be a good point to look next.Thank you in advance
That furnace has 3 elements. You almost certainly have 2 of the elements not working. Could be open element, open limit, open element fuse. You could also have a tripped breaker.
GFM
I checked the breakers.Did the element test with the blower out so they where working fine.It has two 5kw elements.I also cleaned the blower while I had it out.So all that being said would it be a pretty good guess to say that the limit is bad.
Is a manual reset limit switch better from a safety point of view if my furnace doesn't have a thermal fuse?
I prefer the manual reset limit, mostly because it allows the service tech to easily troubleshoot with out having to find replacements for parts. Both types of limit are effective in shutting down a system under rollout conditions.
GFM
@@electriccar3253 Thanks. I have an electric furnace. The blower motor failed and at the same time two heating elements in the heat strip failed. Which means it got hot. My concern is the limit switches getting stuck closed!
@@DavidJohnson-tv2nn If you have had a motor failure, I would recommend replacement of all automatic reset limits. If you have inline limit fuses, they cannot be replaced with manual reset limits.
GFM
@@electriccar3253 Again, thanks. I have three 5kw heating elements. I was going to replace the limit switches on the two elements that failed. I will take your advise and replace all three limit switches. Currently, the limits are auto reset with no thermal fuses inline. I'm leaning toward replacing them with manual reset. So if there is another issue they will trip out and stay out until I or someone can have a look at the problem. Or do you think auto reset limits will be ok?
I have a problem trusting them to work properly after the last incident. Don't want to burn down my crappy house.
@@DavidJohnson-tv2nn I never argue with a man that wants to use manual reset limits.
GFM
my question is - the meanning L150--95 is temperature in F (in celsius it should be 65-35 C)? am i right?
Yes
GFM
Last year the blower stopped but the elements stayed on had to shut it off at the breaker.
This year it blows lukewarm air . Did it burn up an element?
It may have blown a high temp fuse or caused a limit switch to fail.
GFM
grayfurnaceman Thank you, and for the videos.
I see no hot spots on wires, limit switches and sequencer all look new. So night temperature fuse? Can limit switches and sequencer be tested?
One of mine burned out. I got an extra limit switch from another air handler. Can i just use that one?
freddy hidalgo Only if the temp is the same. It should have a number presided by a letter L. Example: L145-40. It means limit switch, 145F, 40F differential. If that number is the same, it ok. Any other, no. Hope this helps.GFM
Yes it did thanks. Ima start posting videos of install. Check me out maybe you can give me tips
Thanks
i have switch limit L150-40f but i can find the same i find one whit L150-45f can i use that?
+Carlos Curiel It sounds ok. If it was less than 40F I would say no. Hope this helps.
GFM
please could the electric furnace operate without the sequencer unit
Hernando J Rodriguez You need some kind of control for the elements. You could use contactors.
GFM
should the high heat limit switch on my electric furnace be opening and closing? Should not the blower be producing enough air flow to keep it closed? Its a 2 speed blower...high and low speed.....it's wired for high speed and it's heat only no AC.....
+Walking in the light for Yeshua You almost certainly have an airflow problem. Dirty filter, plugged blower wheel, ductwork problems or diffuser valves closed. Hope this helps.
GFM
grayfurnaceman GFM.....I pulled the blower and cleaned it ....it wasn't dirty at all .....it also has a clean filter......and it doesn't have a diffuser valve so I'm with you on this one...It has got to be a duct work problem....thank you so much for replying.....
grayfurnaceman GFM.....I think i have figured out the problem......this is a 15kw furnance.....it has a 10kw set on a single limit with a double stack switch....and it has 5kw on a single limit switch.....Im having trouble with the double stack single limit switch kicking on and off on and off.......the 5kw is working fine...so I changed out the 10kw limit switch...it had a 150F in it ....and it was doing the same thing...on and off on and off...I put a 165F back in it because that was all I could get.....at the time......and it is doing the same thing on and off on and off......well.....just checked the single limit switch that is on the 5kw element by its self.....and it is a 190F and it is working fine.....I think some one had changed out the 10kw limit switch at some time and replace it with the wrong temp ......My problem is I can't find out what is the original temp limit switch that is suppose to be in it.....it is a Intertherm (Nordyne) E2EH 015.....is there some way you can help me out with this original part....what temp should it be??? Im thinking the 165 is just way to low and that is why it is opening and closing
+Walking in the light for Yeshua I can't be sure but the 190F seems to be the proper switch. Good luck.
GFM
grayfurnaceman I think your right.....I checked the single 5kw and it has a 190F limit switch on it and it is working fine.....Thanks for your time GFM.....
I had a call that her furnace would shut off at night. To make a long story short. I ended up pulling the blower and cleaned off years of pack down dirt (it doesn't rattle anymore), and checked all sequencers, and limit switches, and I replaced 2/ 60 amp fuses. It's a Coleman 3500A series 15K.
I don't understand why the blower has a 4 to 5 minute delay on an electric furnace. I've never worked on One that had a blower delay................is there a problem that I don't know about? .............other than that the furnace works fine.
+Real Gagne There should be no blower delay at all. It should have come on with the first element. The sequencer may have been wired wrong.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman It's what I thought. It's a 1993 furnace and who ever worked on it over the years made it look like spaghetti inside. I'm a retired HVAC Tech, and I only do this for seniors with low income, and I don't charge, unless it's an expensive part.
So I would have to follow the blower wire from the harness to a sequencer?
+Real Gagne Yes. The fan should be connected to M1 or M2.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Thanks so much. I don't usually work on mobile homes. 95% of my work for 20 years has been gas furnaces. I appreciate your expertise .
+Real Gagne Merry Christmas
GFM
Hi...don't know if you're still responding to comments or not but I have an issue of my heat will not turn off even when AC is on. Duct work is great and a brand new thermostat installed since the issue started. Also clean filters....Does this sound like bad limit switches is the problem? Does this mean that they're "stuck closed"? Thank you for any info.
Model FY4ANF036010AAAA
Name CARRIER RNC FAN COIL UNIT
Electric elements are mostly controlled by sequencers, which have a tendency to stick closed. If it does stick, the limit switch will shut is off, but the switch will eventually fail. In other words, get it fixed.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman thank you. Ordering new limit switches now.
@@BastardOfAMadman Remember the sequencer replacement.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman do you have a video explaining the sequencer? Thank you.
@@BastardOfAMadman Try this one: th-cam.com/video/ls8ypoWdal8/w-d-xo.html
GFM
The bad one is L150
And my new one is L165
Its fine?
freddy hidalgo Nope. you need L150. This can be dangerous business, use the right one.GFM
A, thanks, I guess
GFM
I have an electronic trip furnace that will other come on. I replaced the thermostat and still furnace will not come on. I jumped the red and white wire still no heat. Fan functions in on position but not in auto position. Furnace fired up one time last night and shut off properly. It fired up again later but didn't blow any heat. Any suggestions? Thought it might be the heat elements but watching the video I am not sure. Thanks, Gary
You probably have a control problem. Possibly a sequencer. But first I would jump R to W at the furnace.
GFM
I disconnected the thermostat and jumped the red and white wires at the furnace. Furnace is still not coming on. Furnace is a Nordyne model E1EH-017HA
Furnace blows breaker when trurns off
Does the breaker kick off immediately after the furnace starts, or does it take a while to kick off?
GFM
New youtube layout is terrible, Your vid is the only good thing on this page lol.
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please . we all know heat strips ate money trash buckets. what do you think baby.
I have a Coleman Evcon EB15B that heats fine, but the cooling down fan won't turn off. I have replaced the thermostat and it's still doing it. Any suggestions??
Probably have a sequencer stuck on in the furnace.
GFM