an addition to the tilting your head in tip. Retracting the max out of your shoulders also helps in this and that's why super mobile shoulders is important.
Sick video man, this keeps inspiring me to get back to it! I'm wondering if you would have any tips for getting stronger on slopers and what I can train for it
There's a fourth option how to swing on the red boulder. It's forward with crossed hands. So in this case you'd put your left (kinda reversed grip) in front of right on the starting hold. It alligns you face towards the hold. Can be useful in some rare cases.
After having peaked for something, is it a matter of people getting weaker again afterwards or just back to training hard and therefore find it harder to see just how strong they are since they are constantly working the body?
Yeah it’s mainly just the training load increasing again, meaning you’ll get tired/sore and no longer feel super fresh. But the peak definitely lingers for a bit which is always fun
would be cool to see what your nutrition looked like throughout the day - not a large segment of the videos. but like 30 seconds for breakfast, 30 for lunch. 30 for dinner. I'd be curious what's in your diet and I'm already watching a 36min vid, what's a few more :) anyways, don't feel like ya need to just floatin' a thought
Hey that’s actually a nice idea, almost like a food log! I promise I will try that in the next episode as long as I remember haha. Might take me a couple tries to not forget ;)
I just used one of your TOTDs for my first 6C+ it’s actually a high 6C+ too, The stacking of my hands on top of each other on a crimp helped me out and came in clutch. Thanks for that!
Its usually when you’re not fully warmed up, and get super pumped on an attempt. The pump hits you super hard out of nowhere (hence “flash” pump) and it can be very hard to get rid of this pump throughout your session!
my take on the scorpion move usefulness is that instead of hitting the tipping point where the angle and force on the hold is too much, the move achieves 2 things : maintain a better arm angle on the hold, but the most important I guess is the second : smoothing the ripping force so instead of a big rip at the apogee (the most backward angle) the ripping force lasts longer but is less strong. The way is works is that while augmenting the scorpion move amplitude, the rotation moment is reduced, at the cost of being boosted back when the scorpion move decelerates, so it's like a rubber band, accumulating power when deploying the move, then restoring it when the body stops bending. I guess that the acceleration part of the bending needs to overlap with the apogee and the jerk needs to be considered so that the restoring part lasts more than the accumulating. (jerk being the acceleration change over time). A badly executed scorpion can make it worse because it need good sync to work, especially when ending the move, it needs to blend well.
@@richardsonsclimbing thx, since then I did some thinking experiments and I admit that your theory has some truth. Let's take the analogy of a swing. We all learned since we were kids to accelerate and decelerate. I think that this technique uses the fact that the lower part of the body is more significant than the top part in terms of distance to the pivot and while we bend we are anchored from the top which make the "move" decrease the swinging motion (by taking some force from the hand). This technique is very complex in terms of physics, I think that there are at least 2 major effects at play : smoothing the rip and actually decreasing the swing. thx for sharing your experience with us noobs, I wouldn't have prepared myself properly to use it without having this thoughts. I pass many boulders thx totechniques I learned from pros.
an addition to the tilting your head in tip. Retracting the max out of your shoulders also helps in this and that's why super mobile shoulders is important.
Yeah that makes sense for sure
strong sends my dude!!
Sick video man, this keeps inspiring me to get back to it! I'm wondering if you would have any tips for getting stronger on slopers and what I can train for it
34:49 - I train on the beastmaker middle slopes with weight! I made a lot of gains in my early days training like this with slopers
Anytime there’s a new training video my day is made!
There's a fourth option how to swing on the red boulder. It's forward with crossed hands. So in this case you'd put your left (kinda reversed grip) in front of right on the starting hold. It alligns you face towards the hold. Can be useful in some rare cases.
True good point! Didn’t even think of that!
How much tape are you going through when you're taking it off after every attempt??
Lol I don’t get splits very often but when I do I definitely burn through a couple rolls of tape!
After having peaked for something, is it a matter of people getting weaker again afterwards or just back to training hard and therefore find it harder to see just how strong they are since they are constantly working the body?
Yeah it’s mainly just the training load increasing again, meaning you’ll get tired/sore and no longer feel super fresh. But the peak definitely lingers for a bit which is always fun
I'm curious! What's your camera setup? Is it just a phone on a tripod or something else.
Yep just phone + tripod!
Are you not worried of the Scorpion move that your hands will slip and you fall on your face?
Haha I guess that could potentially happen, but I think your body reflexes would take over and you’d probably spin to land on your back
how’re the tn pros holding up now that you’ve had them for a couple weeks? softer?
Yeah they have softened up big time! Super sensitive, great for smearing, but maybe a little less good for small footholds
What's the max grade you've ever sent ? And do you climb outdoors often
Hard to say since I haven’t been outside in about 8 years, but probably v13!
Haha no I don’t I’m definitely more of a gym rat :)
You fool me once shame on you, you fool me twice, n then Three Times!? That- tha- that it’s been a while - Richardson 2024 😂😂
Lmfao 😂
would be cool to see what your nutrition looked like throughout the day - not a large segment of the videos. but like 30 seconds for breakfast, 30 for lunch. 30 for dinner. I'd be curious what's in your diet and I'm already watching a 36min vid, what's a few more :) anyways, don't feel like ya need to just floatin' a thought
Hey that’s actually a nice idea, almost like a food log! I promise I will try that in the next episode as long as I remember haha. Might take me a couple tries to not forget ;)
@@richardsonsclimbing awesome! yeah nutrition has been top of mind for me lately so it'll be cool to see what you eat. Good luck remembering!
I agree with Bloc Shop being such a "pumpy"/strong kind of gym. Coming from Lecrux, Bloc shop just makes me 2x more pumped.
I don't know of you ever mention this. Surely you did but, how much do you rest between reps, series, exercises...
0-30 seconds between reps, 3 minutes between series, and 5 minutes between exercises!
I just used one of your TOTDs for my first 6C+ it’s actually a high 6C+ too, The stacking of my hands on top of each other on a crimp helped me out and came in clutch. Thanks for that!
Oh nice that’s amazing!! Thanks for sharing 😆
Could anyone tell me what exactl;y is flash pump?
Its usually when you’re not fully warmed up, and get super pumped on an attempt. The pump hits you super hard out of nowhere (hence “flash” pump) and it can be very hard to get rid of this pump throughout your session!
How long did it take to do split?
2 years starting from scratch!
my take on the scorpion move usefulness is that instead of hitting the tipping point where the angle and force on the hold is too much, the move achieves 2 things : maintain a better arm angle on the hold, but the most important I guess is the second : smoothing the ripping force so instead of a big rip at the apogee (the most backward angle) the ripping force lasts longer but is less strong. The way is works is that while augmenting the scorpion move amplitude, the rotation moment is reduced, at the cost of being boosted back when the scorpion move decelerates, so it's like a rubber band, accumulating power when deploying the move, then restoring it when the body stops bending. I guess that the acceleration part of the bending needs to overlap with the apogee and the jerk needs to be considered so that the restoring part lasts more than the accumulating. (jerk being the acceleration change over time). A badly executed scorpion can make it worse because it need good sync to work, especially when ending the move, it needs to blend well.
Wish I could’ve read this comment while I was filming this TOTD ;)
@@richardsonsclimbing thx, since then I did some thinking experiments and I admit that your theory has some truth. Let's take the analogy of a swing. We all learned since we were kids to accelerate and decelerate. I think that this technique uses the fact that the lower part of the body is more significant than the top part in terms of distance to the pivot and while we bend we are anchored from the top which make the "move" decrease the swinging motion (by taking some force from the hand). This technique is very complex in terms of physics, I think that there are at least 2 major effects at play : smoothing the rip and actually decreasing the swing. thx for sharing your experience with us noobs, I wouldn't have prepared myself properly to use it without having this thoughts. I pass many boulders thx totechniques I learned from pros.
Crazy strong shoulders 🤯