Where will you be climbing when you're training in Denver ahead of the NACS at Vail? Would be super cool to see you on some of the hard comp climbs at Movement RiNo
I pretty much just try to rest for at least 4 hours between sessions when I do double days. Other than that I’ve just trained this ways for 15+ years and my body has become accustomed to it! I went through an ice bath phase which I think helped a bit, but I got lazy and stopped that a while ago!
29:21 I see you cam your foot super hard on this move. Do you have any recommendation how to practice the mental aspect of this move? Any time I do a cam move with my leg, unless I'm 100% secure on my handholds, my mind immediately rejects that move, because I'm worried my hands would slip while my cammed leg is stuck.
Haha yeah cams are scary! Honestly this one felt a lot looser than it looked, and I knew that my foot wouldn’t get stuck if I fell. I honestly try to avoid super secure feeling cams altogether because I think the potential risks are not worth it! Imo I wouldn’t recommend trying to get over this fear- it’s valid and cams are definitely dangerous!
@@richardsonsclimbing Thanks for your reply :) Alright, if pro climbers do it, then I will also stick to my strategy of "It's not worth fucking up my knee/ankle for a boulder" 😅.
I’m in Toronto for the next couple days and looking at gyms to go to within the city, any recommendations? I’ve seen compclimb videos at Joe’s and both Basecamp locations in the city and was wondering which you think had the best compstyle setting
Joes is great since they always have 3 comp circuits (an easy-medium-hard circuit) on their comp wall consisting of 4 boulders each! Up the bloc is also one of my favourite gyms in the area and is only a 20min drive from Joes!
I am interested in a comparison of fit and stiffness of the TN Pros and the Qubits. The TN Pros fit my foot really well but I would prefer them to be a little bit stiffer. Do the Qubits fit similar and are they softer or more stiff than the TN Pros?
They definitely feel super similar in terms of fit and yes they also feel a bit stiffer! The thing is though I got my Qubits a half size smaller than the tn pros so I can’t tell 100%. I’ll have to break them in some more to tell for sure
I would usually be able to climb for about 2.5 hours before I started training double sessions! I would say it’s arguably worse for your skin since the healing process is constantly being interrupted- definitely something I’ve been struggling to manage well over the years.
I wear size 40.5 EU VSR, 40 EU Sportiva Solution/Futura, 8.5 US Hiangle pro, and 9.5 US street shoe. Right now I’m wearing these Qubits at a size 8.5 US to optimize for comp performance, but I also want to get a pair of size 9 US for a more comfortable pair to train in. Hope that helps!
Thanks you for sharing you’re thoughts on the Qubits looking forward to the follow up review. Ive been super hesitant on ordering them cause there’s not a lot information on them. If they’re very similar to the highangles definitely will have to get me a pair.
Yes I definitely want to share as much info as possible! My guess is they might turn out to be a slightly stiffer version of the Hiangles but we’ll see if that proves to be the case
Nice review of the Quibits! I have been wearing them mostly for moonboarding over the past month with good results.
unexpected youtuber to be commenting this bouldering video 😅
Love ur vids xx
Thanks! Yeah I climbed with them on the kilter board too and I think they’re super solid for board climbing!
Shoe talk always interesting, so looking forward to it
Where will you be climbing when you're training in Denver ahead of the NACS at Vail? Would be super cool to see you on some of the hard comp climbs at Movement RiNo
Yep movement rino is my go to place in Denver!
What is your normal warm-up routine versus your comp warm-up?
Not much different! I just climb for longer (about 45 min) and do some splits before I start climbing too
How do you rest and recover to do these sessions?
I pretty much just try to rest for at least 4 hours between sessions when I do double days. Other than that I’ve just trained this ways for 15+ years and my body has become accustomed to it!
I went through an ice bath phase which I think helped a bit, but I got lazy and stopped that a while ago!
I pretty much exclusively use unparallel and am grateful for the best UP review i have seen.
🙌 more to come!
29:21 I see you cam your foot super hard on this move. Do you have any recommendation how to practice the mental aspect of this move?
Any time I do a cam move with my leg, unless I'm 100% secure on my handholds, my mind immediately rejects that move, because I'm worried my hands would slip while my cammed leg is stuck.
Haha yeah cams are scary! Honestly this one felt a lot looser than it looked, and I knew that my foot wouldn’t get stuck if I fell. I honestly try to avoid super secure feeling cams altogether because I think the potential risks are not worth it! Imo I wouldn’t recommend trying to get over this fear- it’s valid and cams are definitely dangerous!
@@richardsonsclimbing Thanks for your reply :) Alright, if pro climbers do it, then I will also stick to my strategy of "It's not worth fucking up my knee/ankle for a boulder" 😅.
😎👍
I’m in Toronto for the next couple days and looking at gyms to go to within the city, any recommendations? I’ve seen compclimb videos at Joe’s and both Basecamp locations in the city and was wondering which you think had the best compstyle setting
Joes is great since they always have 3 comp circuits (an easy-medium-hard circuit) on their comp wall consisting of 4 boulders each! Up the bloc is also one of my favourite gyms in the area and is only a 20min drive from Joes!
I am interested in a comparison of fit and stiffness of the TN Pros and the Qubits. The TN Pros fit my foot really well but I would prefer them to be a little bit stiffer. Do the Qubits fit similar and are they softer or more stiff than the TN Pros?
They definitely feel super similar in terms of fit and yes they also feel a bit stiffer! The thing is though I got my Qubits a half size smaller than the tn pros so I can’t tell 100%. I’ll have to break them in some more to tell for sure
@@richardsonsclimbing I’ve heard that the Qubits are a tad wider and longer so seems like 0.5 down from the TN pros is standard!
How long were your sessions before you started training twice a day? Do you think the double sessions are better or worse for your skin?
I would usually be able to climb for about 2.5 hours before I started training double sessions!
I would say it’s arguably worse for your skin since the healing process is constantly being interrupted- definitely something I’ve been struggling to manage well over the years.
Can you please compare shoes, like TN pro vs Quibit vs Instinct etc. Always need genuine comparisons
Yep, definitely got some ideas brewing on shoe videos
please more climbing shoe content!
How should I be sizing these?
I wear size 40.5 EU VSR, 40 EU Sportiva Solution/Futura, 8.5 US Hiangle pro, and 9.5 US street shoe.
Right now I’m wearing these Qubits at a size 8.5 US to optimize for comp performance, but I also want to get a pair of size 9 US for a more comfortable pair to train in.
Hope that helps!
@@richardsonsclimbing thanks a lot
Thanks you for sharing you’re thoughts on the Qubits looking forward to the follow up review. Ive been super hesitant on ordering them cause there’s not a lot information on them. If they’re very similar to the highangles definitely will have to get me a pair.
Yes I definitely want to share as much info as possible! My guess is they might turn out to be a slightly stiffer version of the Hiangles but we’ll see if that proves to be the case