Like you're saying, these 366 saws can be excellent saws! My last kit 361 I just went straight to an OEM carb, opened up piston windows, opened up lower transfers a bit, and did muffler mod. Great running saw! Kind of wish I had my first 2 saws with the 44 modded carbs to compare yet, but like you're talking here in the vid, the 44 carb is an excellent option for better performance on these saws! Pull a 24" for firewood use no issue!
Hi Scott, I have had better luck with silver solder and flux than brazing rods for the most part. I have had fair success with nickel silver brazing rods that are flux coated but they are hard to come by I find. I build pipes for my saws, I usually just soak the finished silver soldered parts in hot water for a bit and then wire wheel them. Then clean the parts with brake cleaner and paint with Rust-Oleum ceramic high temp paint (2000 degree ceramic paint) and bake per instructions. I have no flux bleeding issues.
@@wayneanderson991 I think I'm gonna be screwed with the brass braze . Unless I bake everything... Which as wood stove season quickly approaches, maybe won't be a big deal to add to process.. I use same paint..
@@bulletproofsaws No, check online or at your local welding shop. I use Safety-Silv 45 flux coated and uncoated. The uncoated rod will need a flux product to apply to area being soldered. If done properly a little silver solder goes a long ways and is much easier to use on thin metal parts.
Love g66 ported by Aaron Lynch!
@@tedneitzel I really need to get a few ported to have more reference points
Like you're saying, these 366 saws can be excellent saws! My last kit 361 I just went straight to an OEM carb, opened up piston windows, opened up lower transfers a bit, and did muffler mod. Great running saw! Kind of wish I had my first 2 saws with the 44 modded carbs to compare yet, but like you're talking here in the vid, the 44 carb is an excellent option for better performance on these saws! Pull a 24" for firewood use no issue!
Hey Scott, thanks for the insight. Like your videos, love the blue saws sight. Best customer service out there. Thanks for your content, and time.
@@lanceuselton3124 really appreciate that lance.. I'll get em out little by little...
Hi Scott, I have had better luck with silver solder and flux than brazing rods for the most part. I have had fair success with nickel silver brazing rods that are flux coated but they are hard to come by I find. I build pipes for my saws, I usually just soak the finished silver soldered parts in hot water for a bit and then wire wheel them. Then clean the parts with brake cleaner and paint with Rust-Oleum ceramic high temp paint (2000 degree ceramic paint) and bake per instructions. I have no flux bleeding issues.
@@wayneanderson991 I think I'm gonna be screwed with the brass braze . Unless I bake everything... Which as wood stove season quickly approaches, maybe won't be a big deal to add to process.. I use same paint..
@@bulletproofsaws I have had very good results with 45% or 56% silver solder, very strong when done properly. Good luck!
@@wayneanderson991 does the silver solder cost more than an entire clone saw? Lol.. gonna look now..
@@bulletproofsaws No, check online or at your local welding shop. I use Safety-Silv 45 flux coated and uncoated. The uncoated rod will need a flux product to apply to area being soldered. If done properly a little silver solder goes a long ways and is much easier to use on thin metal parts.