I do agree with one exception. That darn heavy duty spring in the centre of that shaft causing you to use the Arnold Schwarzenegger one arm impressed to get it down needs to be addressed.
@@JDRichardtotally agree.. the lever set up could be better. I want to share what I dislike about vintage L&R. I live in US.l and it has become next to impossible to find any parts. More complex models like tempo 400 or Varimatic has multiple boards. Only way to repair them is to cannibalize another machine for parts.. L&R no longer supports old machines..
Thank you for the thorough presentation. There were two things that struck me: I think, contrary to what you said, the timer does not turn off the electricity. At least my Elma machine timer does not. I also noticed that you take the hot basket out with a cloth. That seems to me a risk of getting fibers in your parts again, especially with the force you are using. As a beginner I naturally pay extra attention to things like that. Excuse me.
So that timer does turn off the machine. The funny thing is I have a home security camera pointing at the timer, and I put a white mark on the timer so I could clearly see its position and the fact that it has gone off and the machine has turned off. That don’t have to hang around the whole time it is washing the watch. Now the cloth I’m using is not the type of cloth that would cause any fibres to accidentally drift into the basket so I wouldn’t be too concerned about using that to protect your hand from the heat, although, I usually cool the basket off to the extent where I use my hand to remove the basket and this is the first time I’ve used the cloth to protect my hand to remove the basket. So your point is good and if anyone’s reading this, they should probably not use the cloth.
JD, may I ask you something?. You know more than me about these things and I have not had to deal with this particular issue before. I managed to obtain a rather scarce, but cool, watch cleaning machine. It's a Toutun, made in France. Instead of rotating, the three jars and the heater are in a straight line and the motor slides on a metal bar. The thing is it has the EU outlet. Can it be easily converted from EU 220v to US 110V using one of those converters from Amazon or can you actually change the cord?. What is the best route here to adapt it to a US outlet without burning up the machine?. Do you know?. What would you do?.
@@wildernessofzinn17 You should buy a high watt voltage converter. This will ensure the speed controller works properly and there are no related current issues. Better safe than sorry.
I want to share what I dislike about vintage L&R. I live in US. it has become next to impossible to find any parts. More complex models like tempo 400 or Varimatic has multiple boards. Only way to repair them is to cannibalize another machine for parts.. L&R no longer supports old machines. You will notice most people who are refurbishing these are working only on simple models like L&R master or mastermatic which has pretty much no electronic components
I think that the only solution here is to use the step up transformer that would get you from 120 to 240 volts. And that would make that.rheostat work better and controlling the speed of the motor. It is way too touchy even though I figured out how to use it over the years.
@@DutchClawz that’s really good to know so I don’t waste my time buying a step up transformer system that will result in that voltage controlled knob not being any better than this right now
I also looked everywhere for rheostat machine as well and came up with nothing. I was trying to get something that I could just put into the slot. I think the main problem here is this machine was really built for the UK power which is 220 or 240 and it wasn’t built for the 120 we have here in North America. When I got the machine, all they did was slap a sticker on the front of the metal sticker that said 120 which was bullshit. So the real is not expecting 120 V it’s expecting 240 UK power
@@JDRichard Same slapped on sticker on mine. So you think if we ran it on 220 it would function better or at least as intended ?! Thats easy enough , i can run a 2 pole leg out to where i keep it , and give it a try. Im not an electrical engineer so i wont know if its wired for 220 and i dont want to fry it with the extra current. Ive got a buddy of mine who teaches union school for running HVAC in skyscrapers, ill get back to ya on this JD.
@@khronosbest9448 I don’t think you’re gonna fry anything by running the 220 into it as this is the voltage not the current. And you know that this device is actually meant for 220 and not 120 as it says so on the plate that they threw the sticker over. And there’s no way to change any component in this to make it 120, they just knew the motor could hack itand the rest the circuit was fine. I also looked inside the electronics and that rheostat is rated for 3 A. I am an electrical engineer, but hated power systems and focussed on digital electronics, which is anywhere between 5 V and 12 V. I actually despise my machine classes even though I passed all that stuff. I may just buy a 120 to 240 step up transformer off of Amazon for 90 bucks and see how everything works.
@@JDRichard ok then , I’ll run the 220 line and let you know what happens. Need some time on my end as my only day off on Monday’s and I’ve been working on a friends watch most of the morning and I’m done working for today… on my day off🤣 I’ll let ya know how I make out
The vintage L&R machines are excellent. I haven’t used a Pearl before, but I’ve spoken to watchmakers who have tried them and they were quite impressed. The one complaint I’ve heard is from people who ordered a 120V machine, but received a 220/240V version, sometimes with a 120V sticker over the 240V marking. The speed control is much less sensitive at 240V, giving you a smooth control over a range of useful speeds. The heater apparently runs a lot hotter at 120V but I’m less sure of that. If you’re running a 240V machine at 120V, the machine still reportedly does an excellent job of cleaning watch parts.
@@mercuriall2810 just don’t wake the touchiness of the rheostat. Tried to find a replacement that would give me a better window of control, but couldn’t.
![TEEDEE TADA - DIAMOND NARAKORN X LEGO LYKN [Special Dance Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QgtZedFeumA/mqdefault.jpg)
I like the pearl machine.. it is very good and does the job.. no need to mess with vintage machines especially parts are not easy to come by
I do agree with one exception. That darn heavy duty spring in the centre of that shaft causing you to use the Arnold Schwarzenegger one arm impressed to get it down needs to be addressed.
@@JDRichardtotally agree.. the lever set up could be better. I want to share what I dislike about vintage L&R. I live in US.l and it has become next to impossible to find any parts. More complex models like tempo 400 or Varimatic has multiple boards. Only way to repair them is to cannibalize another machine for parts.. L&R no longer supports old machines..
Thank you for the thorough presentation.
There were two things that struck me: I think, contrary to what you said, the timer does not turn off the electricity. At least my Elma machine timer does not.
I also noticed that you take the hot basket out with a cloth. That seems to me a risk of getting fibers in your parts again, especially with the force you are using. As a beginner I naturally pay extra attention to things like that. Excuse me.
So that timer does turn off the machine. The funny thing is I have a home security camera pointing at the timer, and I put a white mark on the timer so I could clearly see its position and the fact that it has gone off and the machine has turned off. That don’t have to hang around the whole time it is washing the watch. Now the cloth I’m using is not the type of cloth that would cause any fibres to accidentally drift into the basket so I wouldn’t be too concerned about using that to protect your hand from the heat, although, I usually cool the basket off to the extent where I use my hand to remove the basket and this is the first time I’ve used the cloth to protect my hand to remove the basket. So your point is good and if anyone’s reading this, they should probably not use the cloth.
@@JDRichard That's fantastic that it shuts off. My Elma machine keeps me hanging around for ever....
I bought the kiwi cleaner kit and hoping to have the project before summer ends. It’s currently part of my PhD (project half done) list.
Love the PhD term and am stealing it
@@JDRichard please do, I can’t claim it either- my wife bestowed it upon me. 🫠
JD, may I ask you something?. You know more than me about these things and I have not had to deal with this particular issue before.
I managed to obtain a rather scarce, but cool, watch cleaning machine. It's a Toutun, made in France. Instead of rotating, the three jars and the heater are in a straight line and the motor slides on a metal bar. The thing is it has the EU outlet. Can it be easily converted from EU 220v to US 110V using one of those converters from Amazon or can you actually change the cord?. What is the best route here to adapt it to a US outlet without burning up the machine?. Do you know?. What would you do?.
@@wildernessofzinn17 You should buy a high watt voltage converter. This will ensure the speed controller works properly and there are no related current issues. Better safe than sorry.
@@JDRichard Thanks much JD. I'll won't go cheap
@wildernessofzinn17 Good
Where can one get one of this? I can only find Jantas online and they only have 2 slots and, from what I can see, no heater. Thanks for the video.
I bought my machine off ETSY but I think you can probably buy them off of Amazon now
I want to share what I dislike about vintage L&R. I live in US. it has become next to impossible to find any parts. More complex models like tempo 400 or Varimatic has multiple boards. Only way to repair them is to cannibalize another machine for parts.. L&R no longer supports old machines. You will notice most people who are refurbishing these are working only on simple models like L&R master or mastermatic which has pretty much no electronic components
Hey, thank you very much. I totally agree even though in the pasties machines might’ve been the ones to get.
I have the same one. Mine spins way too fast, im afraid it damages parts. Pretty bummed out
I think that the only solution here is to use the step up transformer that would get you from 120 to 240 volts. And that would make that.rheostat work better and controlling the speed of the motor. It is way too touchy even though I figured out how to use it over the years.
@@JDRichard I may have one of those laying around. Ill give it a shot tonight!
@@DutchClawz let me know how well it works in, adjusting the speed of the motor and perhaps I’ll buy one off of Amazon
@@JDRichard Nope, didnt work. Now its either 1 rpm or its original lamborghini speed
@@DutchClawz that’s really good to know so I don’t waste my time buying a step up transformer system that will result in that voltage controlled knob not being any better than this right now
I’ve looked for a replacement rheostat for our machine with no luck. If and when I do find one I’ll let you know post haste.
I also looked everywhere for rheostat machine as well and came up with nothing. I was trying to get something that I could just put into the slot. I think the main problem here is this machine was really built for the UK power which is 220 or 240 and it wasn’t built for the 120 we have here in North America. When I got the machine, all they did was slap a sticker on the front of the metal sticker that said 120 which was bullshit. So the real is not expecting 120 V it’s expecting 240 UK power
@@JDRichard Same slapped on sticker on mine. So you think if we ran it on 220 it would function better or at least as intended ?! Thats easy enough , i can run a 2 pole leg out to where i keep it , and give it a try. Im not an electrical engineer so i wont know if its wired for 220 and i dont want to fry it with the extra current. Ive got a buddy of mine who teaches union school for running HVAC in skyscrapers, ill get back to ya on this JD.
@@khronosbest9448 I don’t think you’re gonna fry anything by running the 220 into it as this is the voltage not the current. And you know that this device is actually meant for 220 and not 120 as it says so on the plate that they threw the sticker over. And there’s no way to change any component in this to make it 120, they just knew the motor could hack itand the rest the circuit was fine. I also looked inside the electronics and that rheostat is rated for 3 A. I am an electrical engineer, but hated power systems and focussed on digital electronics, which is anywhere between 5 V and 12 V. I actually despise my machine classes even though I passed all that stuff. I may just buy a 120 to 240 step up transformer off of Amazon for 90 bucks and see how everything works.
@@JDRichard ok then , I’ll run the 220 line and let you know what happens. Need some time on my end as my only day off on Monday’s and I’ve been working on a friends watch most of the morning and I’m done working for today… on my day off🤣 I’ll let ya know how I make out
@khronosbest9448 OK big thanks
I have same time but mine is over 40years old and made in England
Do the British machines run six hours later?
@JDRichard ha ha it tuck me a min
im completely convinced that the vintage L&R machines are better.
Likely right
@@JDRichard Im restoring two L&R machines myself currently
The vintage L&R machines are excellent.
I haven’t used a Pearl before, but I’ve spoken to watchmakers who have tried them and they were quite impressed.
The one complaint I’ve heard is from people who ordered a 120V machine, but received a 220/240V version, sometimes with a 120V sticker over the 240V marking.
The speed control is much less sensitive at 240V, giving you a smooth control over a range of useful speeds.
The heater apparently runs a lot hotter at 120V but I’m less sure of that.
If you’re running a 240V machine at 120V, the machine still reportedly does an excellent job of cleaning watch parts.
@@mercuriall2810 just don’t wake the touchiness of the rheostat. Tried to find a replacement that would give me a better window of control, but couldn’t.
@@JDRichard An alternative approach would be to buy a 120V -> 240V step up transformer, which will let you run the cleaner at its nominal voltage.