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Single Point Threading on the Lathe I
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ส.ค. 2020
- Taken from Patron Series #1: "Wedge Style Hand Vise - Part 2" / clickspring
Thread shown is M10 x 1.5, more detail on this lathe (Sieg SC4) and the other lathes can be found here: • Tools, Glorious Tools!...
I'm more of an electronics guy in my skill set, but this stuff just fascinates me. Manufacturing parts as needed is freedom. True freedom. I'd really like to be able to make replacement parts for the vintage tape decks I work on, LOL
I too have background in electronics, IT and now healthcare.... but I started to learn machining as a hobby and love the precision and skill it takes to make a thread.
Chris’s threading video is extra wonderful as he works mostly in metric - and metric threading is something few other youtubers focus on (🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺oioio).
His method for video production has been replicated by many -but like his miniature machining skills-rarely achieve to such precision. Clean and simple!
Try machining... try to aim for finishes like Chris does... you don’t need a lot of money but you will need patience. ;)
@Matt T Yup.. like they say.. nothing ventured, nothing gained..
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Thank You Chris. Your videos are invaluable teaching tools that allow me to help some 6th graders who wish to learn the art and science of horology. Equally, if not more important than hands on learning with metrology tools, a staking set, mainspring winder, poising tool and complete set of collets.... not necessarily in that order (huge smile). Respect!
YESS !!! I waited for YEARS to see if Chris would single-point on the lathe.... he finally DID it !! ( I do it daily, it's my preferred method where possible)
I will be the last to beat a youtuber for not making new content. However, your run of the mill quality videos are miles ahead of anyone else, the content is awesomely good, excellent instruction and a great deal of satisfaction. Really, Chris, are you just gaffing off until people forget you, or creating something incredible?
I'm hoping for something incredible, but on the off chance it's a gradual withdrawal from videos, I want you to know that I enjoyed every one of your videos. As a watchmaker / watch repairer in the US, I love to see what new things you are working on. I always love to see new techniques for pretty much anything. Enough said.
Live your life well, Chris. All the best.
My understanding is he's been primarily occupied with his work on publishing a paper regarding his work on the antikythera mechanism. Published as in published scientifically in a peer reviewed journal. I think that's wrapping up now (was accepted with revisions).
@@SpudGunTechie That's a pretty good summary of what has happened.
G'day Chris, good to see you still putting out vids, always enjoy'em.
Brings back memories of me and a Harrison M250 lathe in my first job as a Toolmaker. Hand grinding 95%+ of my tools myself, mostly self taught. I preferred roughing the tool on the wall grinder, then finishing it on the surface grinder. Parting-off blades 0.010" thick. Having to
flat-bottom 1.0mm.diamerer drills by eye to make special insertion tools for I.B.M. I often miss being on the tools. Turning, milling, grinding and jig-boring. CNC's are so soulless.
If i were to learn machining for a job in the manufacturing industry, am I more likely to learn to do it on a CNC/computer programming than the way you did it? Just wondering.
@@americanstriper8666 there wasn't a need at the time, nor the budget for a C.N.C. lathe, as my company was in its infancy. Indeed there is a place for each CONVENTIONAL and C.N.C. requirements. If you're making one-offs or low numbers of something it's more efficient to make them on a conventional lathe. However, if high numbers are required, the extra time writing the program for a cnc is cost-effective, and can be stored for future use. When I started serving my apprenticeship, the company only had an old MYFORD SUPER 7 to use (a model-makers lathe) then a newer one, then a brand new Harrison M250. And further lathes as the company grew. Conventional and CNC lathes both have their place still.
@@ianmorrison6798 still an undergrad in his 2nd year and when I understand everything you say, really make me happy
Always a good day when Chris posts a video.
Here we are once again, no lathe, no idea what single point threading is but you just grab a cuppa and a biscuit or four and sit back and watch.
one year ago i was in your position, but now i'm milling and i'm much happier.
@@AsitShouldBe I have no interest in milling, just love his workmanship and how he shows the process making it a pleasure to watch
@@eddiev1980 That's how it starts and then you think to yourself; I could do that! Before you know it you are looking at lathes and mills and tooling, and wondering how to pay for it all.
Yes bro
You are wise young patiwan...
I miss hearing your voice, maybe it's me but your voiceovers are always therapeutic.
Chris should get Gilbert Gottfried to do a voice over on his next video.
Beautiful photography and flawless editing. Just a joy to watch. Has to be 12L14 steel the way the chips come off.
Thanks for sharing.
th-cam.com/video/zehEV2ZBJK4/w-d-xo.html
Amazing work, have not done it this way since trade school. Just makes me so thankful for my little cnc lathes and full form threading inserts.
nice work bud ive watched a few people screw cutting here and thats about the best ive seen yet. its been a long time since ive had to do any manual screw cutting and generally it was between centres with a face plate and a dog, we still ran some positive rake on hss tools and i noticed you even flattened the point,, thumbs up. great to see the thread end groove although we would radius it, two thumbs up for showing the test cut and pitch gauges. just for the sake of saying it we would also do a full depth of thread form cut as a lead and depth indicator on the face . cutting would normally be a ten thou depth cut and subsequent cut would be the same with the addition of a five thou side adjustment on the compound slide to give some tool clearance on the trailing edge. then a touch up with a stone to cleanup the thread faces always done with coolant the tool would never fill the thread form completely as there would be no tool clearance and allowed clearance to be adjusted in the root. not saying its the only way just how we did it in the old BHP days. love your work. admire your patience cheers
I really like the full thread profile carbide inserts, they make the nicest threads especially on a cnc-lathe when the cutting speed is much higher.
My mechanic also watching lathe videos >.< I started watching these after your videos. So satisfying to watch🖤
I own high precision screw factory in India, we make millions of these on screw cutting lathe, with carbide inserts. The production method described here are only for hobbyists
@@AS-ug2vq The carbide inserts are nice however have there limits, at least the one I have which is limited to 12tpi. I recently needed 8tpi and had to use my HSS bit that I had made up previously to do 8tpi.
@@AS-ug2vq : The video title is "Single Point Threading on the Lathe"... hardly a technique anyone would use to make "millions of these".
You should be watching the video titled "Make millions of screws on screw cutting lathe with carbide inserts, for high-precision screw factories"
This channel is aimed at hobbyists, after all.
Machining is so therapeutic
It is soothing to watch. The shops I've worked in are loud, dirty, and busy yet watching metal getting cut was still an interesting job. I didn't like making hundreds of the same part over and over but that's part of the job.
It looks like, before you see backstage =)
@M T both. I've worked in different shops and one of them had all old equipment, some of it made for WWII. If you can afford a cnc machine they're great at turning out precision parts. If you're good at programming that's the way to go but a mistake can be very costly. If you're making one off parts then they are not really cost effective.
I'm sorry I can't give you a better answer. Maybe if I had an idea of what you're planing on building?
Have you watched " This Old Tony "? He has a lot of videos that may help you decide which way to go. ( he's a lot smarter than I am too)
@@BCM1959 And his gags are hilarious, ie cutting steel stock with a brick bolster.
@@markfryer9880 or a karate chop...
0:33 See, now you’re just showing off...
Just a wee tip. If you do not need a square shoulder at the junction of your thread and stock, put in as big a radius as you can and make it smooth and ridge free, and angle cut the outer undercut edge with your threading tool prior to thread cutting. It will make dressing up the burr you always get and the big smooth transition radius will help prevent fracture if you are using it for a lever such as on a drill press quill. Nice job all the same.
I had to subscribe again, as for no known reason I was somehow unsubscribed, which would explain the lack of notifications for a long time. I'm glad I received a recommendation for this post, as Clickspring was the very first TH-cam channel I saw several years ago upon first exploring the video platform.
Now I have to see where the Antykithera (sp?) project is. It was, or is, the last project I remember following.
Here's to hoping we'll be seeing you return to larger videos soon!
When the coiled swarf came out of the second last and last cut, that was delicious, thank you.
Chris please stop teasing us with clips we’re all dying for the next upload on the main channel!! 😂😂 but seriously, amazing work as always thanks for the inspiring content 👊🏼
As always, STUNNING video production
YAY my clickspring fix!! Hope all is well Chris. Keep up the good work
Nice work Chris! I noticed you keep the threadnut engaged. I found out recently this works better on small lathes.
I have the same Eclipse angle gage, really like it with the movable scale. Have not seen another one in decades....
Ahhh, finally. I've been feeling a little stressed out lately. This always helps.
the superb way ever I seen of demonstrarting the working of lath machine so simply💯
Also, it was not shown, the compound is set to 29 & 1/2 degrees.
As always, a beautiful and fascinating video.
That brings back some memories...
When l first cut threads on a manual lathe i was instantly spoiled. Hardinge HLV-H. Single Tooth Reversing Dog Clutch in the gear train between the spindle and the leadscrew. No matter the thread. SAE, ISO, DP or Module repeatable pickup every time. No opening and closing the half nut. No watching a threading dial. No reversing the spindle to wind the tool back to the start. Every home hobbiest with a lathe should build one for his shop lathe. After I was judged Proficient at grinding tools off hand I was allowed to make tool grinding blocks. From then on I always ground my threading tools on a surface grinder. Perfect 60 degree included angles. perfect side clearance. Plus l was able to grind top relief for when cutting tougher materials. Wound up making a block for Acmes and an Adjustable block for specials and stepped form tools.
Good God, man! Even your hand ground lathe tools are works of art!!😂
Great thread, but I am just so glad full form inserts exist. Only way to go if you want to cut perfect threads quickly in a cnc.
You make Tedious Machining processes look like a piece of Cake !
Hey Chris, could you put together a list of the different stones you have and their proper usage. I’d like to get some stones for polishing the way you do, however I don’t quite know where to start.
Yes certainly, its on the to-do list - in the meantime a quick answer is to get (at minimum) a bench India stone and a small selection of hard Arkansas stones to suit the scale of work that you do - Cheers :)
Clickspring Clips thanks man. I appreciate the information. And thank you for the beautiful content you give us.
Thank you this my chapter nine expansion
I miss the regular clickspring videos :(
always a treat to watch your work - please keep it up
Mesmerizing metallic poetry!
My old mentor's trick on this is to feed the depth in at 60° so that you have only one side of the bit cutting at a time, not both, which prevents chatter and ugly surface finish.
A closely related strategy is set the compound at just slightly less than the included angle, so that the vast majority of the cutting is on the leading edge, the receding edge takes something like a finishing cut, and it simplifies the advance math because you zero the cross slide each time, then advance the compound just a little. At the end of the cut you back the cross slide out one rotation, reverse, advance it in to zero, and advance the compound. This reduces the possibility of advancing the wrong amount.
Omg he's alive!
Your careful grinding and honing is very much rewarded by the excellent finish of the thread. Despite the dominance of carbide inserts (even amongst minilathe users) they're just not as sharp as HSS (can be...)
To be fair towards the carbide tools, they aren't made with really sharp edges for the specific purpose - to prevent chipping the cutting edge. It's especially critical with less rigid small machines. That's the main reason why mini lathes and mills benefit from HSS tools - they simply last longer there.
@@sciloj I'm not quite following your various statements.
What tools are prone to edge chipping on which lathes?
As a data point, HSS was used (with advantage) on large industrial lathes prior to carbide's introduction (circa 1935)
On any less rigid lathe, carbide tools get damaged easier than HSS. Mini lathes are usually less rigid. That's why HSS tools are better for small lathes.
@@sciloj and since HSS can be honed to a finer edge, cutting forces are reduced, and finish improved. HSS is the way for smaller lathes
@@paulwomack5866, both HSS and tungsten carbide can be made really sharp. But turning inserts aren't usually made to be sharp to make them last longer since carbide is hard but brittle. That's the idea behind it.
When will be something new on your main channel?
This
I think I read on one of the forums that he has found something extremely interesting regarding the machine he is building under spend the last 8 to 12 months researching this
I bet he is so busy making and selling clocks and has no time for the channel anymore. I have been waiting for almost a year to finish the antikythera machine, and he still only posts short videos no explanation for the disappearance.
@@diaa0001 He has been working on a research paper describing something he discovered about the Antikythera Device. That paper has now been accepted for publication, so there's reason to hope he will come back to making full length videos soon.
@@jeffryjones5832 Accepted for Publication. Good to know. I am excited for Chris and to find out what he has discovered.
hello I am a student from Indonesia, I am majoring in engineering, I also learned to make like that, thanks for the picture
I love your videos, in particular the ones with a historical perspective. How were threads cut in antiquity? Was it possible to cut threads on a lathe before the 19th century invention of the lead thread, or did craftspersons have to hand file everything? Having a hard time finding sources for these questions - google keeps spitting out tutorials for using moderns lathes.
Hi Chris,just wanted to say that you raise the bar very high for other youtubers with your videos + a request video.How do you manage all these metal scraps from your work?thnx for reading and looking forward to your next video
dimarg00 machine shops will generally have scrap metal bins for offcuts, as well as all the swarf from machining. You can sell it to scrap yards (they will typically send a truck to collect the full drums and swap it for for an empty one)
I see,i was thinking maybe something as melting and reuse for other projects but i guess recycling as u mentioned probably is more common way
@@dimarg00 yea..maybe for casting, cant just melt metal and make a new stock bar from that. Gotta deal with impurities, and i assume a lot more
@@SiIverBacks
Recycled steel is never as good as new steel, especially after its been turned to swarf as there is more contaminants.
Where I work we machine tons of swarf a day, literally, as it's heavy industry.
When you have offcuts, especially of nickel products it just gets sent to the plant they make the steel and re-melt it if you can be sure it's all the correct grade.
When it's turned to swarf it needs to go to get cleaned, sorted all sorts to get rid of contaminants like broken carbide, coolant, scale and anything else even if you can keep the correct grades of swarf seperated.
Most places the swarf will just go to the recyclers with all the other scrap and it goes for "pot metal" , nothing is assured , it's usually low quality, the Chinese often use it
@@landlifem5872 The iron content of sorted by metal type swarf is much higher than raw ore pellets. Swarf being what you call dirty is totally viable of being recycled into high quality metals and steels. Recycling of various metals is not something that can be economically done on small garage scale to the same quality standards a real mill can do. Cost wise for ferrous metals it generally is not worth it to re smelt such scrap.
The ad that YT chose for me for this video: Some worker in China tossing nominally-straight rods into a giant, definitely not OSHA-compliant bar threader.
It would be really weird if a Chinese worker used machine tools approved by an American government agency. I think the Chinese have their own agencies.
Nice work, super clean, I love that kind of work,shout out from PHILIPPINES
The most amazing part of this whole threading task is.... no chatter from that Chinesium lathe
That is a Sherline lathe, made in the USA. www.sherline.com/
@@Windgonner No, his red lathe is a Sieg SC4, not a Sherline. www.clickspringprojects.com/blog/which-lathe-should-i-buy
@@Windgonner He does have a Sherline, but the one in this video is the Sieg SC4
Razor sharp stools are essential in eliminating these issues. Obviously this excellent craftsman knows this, as is clearly demonstrated in this clip.
You should offer Adam Savage to do a colab with you, he seems to be a huge fan of yours and together you could make something magical!
I love this channel
I Miss Your VOice Chris!
I'm ranjith in India I like your video so pls upload some more videos about lathe operation and tool graining based on their operations thank you soo much 😉😉😉😉
nice video ! one improvement : make a chamfer before starting to thread, at the thread start.
I had always wondered how threading was cut "automatically". I have only ever used taps and dies, and couldn't figure how the machine could match tool speed with rotation without CNC. Should have figured there'd be some kind of 'guide' for common pitches.
In a manual lathe it's all gearing. There are separate gear clusters for turning SAE or Metric threads.
Very good work done you turn cross slide and fed from there iit is the genuine method to cut thread the way you centered the tool(coter) the way you made it right angled i like and enjoyed which lathe are you using.
I had schbliene wirh me great machines
Would have helped Adam Savage and tested with his bolt/nut project to watch this, was amazing. Both amazing makers inspiring each other.
Good work
Damn thats cool as hell.
Ok Chris, exceptional as usual but please mate, what is the last tool that you used on the thread in the clip? Thanks for the brilliant work mate, it’s always such a pleasure to watch your clips and I learn something new every time
Sooo cool and well made!!
Yeah, I'm definitely going to have to rebuild my quick change tool post rod now...
I have been having trouble getting a 20tpi (guess that's a UNEF) decent looking thread on a 3/4" bolt using a carbide threading tool. A test bolt was made in both aluminum and brass, the carbide insert change to new, but yet the threads just looked rough and nothing like they should. Other videos seem to show carbide working, but after studying your grind angles I am thinking of trying again using a HSS tool instead. (Note: I really have cut more common threads with success.) I am open for any ideas, or confirmations. Thanks
G'day Tom, generally when I am getting a poor surface finish (when all appears to be as it should be), its because of a lack of relief clearance - ie something wrong with the cutter geometry, or how the cutter is being presented to the work - Cheers :)
Fashioned a HSS tool bit similar to yours and made some fairly good threads. Not sure why the insert (new) didn't work but? It seems I get a better cut normally with HSS over inserts (my opinion, or skill level). Thanks and your work is truly fantastic!! @@ClickspringClips
I have no doubt that Chris knows his equipment really well, but those who don't might fail by blindly following his steps. Generally, centering a lathe tool on a live center tip is not recommended since tailstocks aren't guaranteed to be coaxial with the spindle and oftentimes definitely aren't. So, don't do that unless you know for sure that it is coaxial.
Sciloj, I didn’t run it back for a look, but my impression was that the pointy center was in the chuck as opposed to the tailstock; if correct, would that be precise enough for centering the tool?
good work
Is it just me or is Chris becoming even more annoyingly precise? haha. He could be easily be a successful lathe salesman. Awesome to watch :-)
Rob Stevenson he probably sold more lathes than any lathe salesman, if you think about it
@@alex0589 I agree.
I'd suggest chamfering both ends of the part you are going to thread for the nicest job. The chamfer can be done after threading but is more difficult to see when to stop.
Is this in the machinist handbook? Everyone always shows the basics for a specific thread, I want to know how to cut EVERY thread
Part I don’t know how to do on my Craftsman 12x36 is getting it to restart in the same line. I can setup the job and get the gearbox set but I’m stuck beyond that.
@whitpusmc I don’t know about your machine, Sometimes there is quadrant indicator to show the position of the lead screw, you engage the lead screw handle when the quadrant is the same position you started the cut. Otherwise you need to remove the tool from the cut very fast at the finish, stop the machine with the brake, leave everything engaged then put machine in reverse back to beginning of the cut, then start again, rinse and repeat.
How am I just now learning of this 2nd channel?
That stone at 0:31 I have used them in school but now I have a german shef stone 8000 grid is really good but not as good at those
I'm by no means a machinist, but I have some time on a lathe, still, I hate treadcutting on the lathe, it's wichcraft for me, and altgough I have done it on occasions when I had no other option, I am always worried I will screw(!) something up....
very helpful
wow that was amazing
Nice one. I hope i have all that kind of machines.
Good job 👌🏻
Looks amazing... Nice video!
Honest question. Why do machinist make threads on the lathe like this rather than using a die set? I would assume because a die would require that most of the material already be removed, but other than that, I am not too sure.
A few situations; as having the option to make threads in a lathe and threads with a die are both options: 1) dont have a die to a specific thread size- maybe you need a 10-32 thread made but you don’t have the die in hand. 2) versatility+accuracy the machinist is given/provides with
Mostly because single point threading can make a smoother, more accurate thread.
Is this reply to Adam Savage's try on lathe threading? :)
While Adam showed some trick that could save a novice's ass by preventing crashing the tool holder into the chuck by reversing the process and cutting away from the chuck, he also showed the wrong and dangerous way to increase the depth of cut. With threads of that size, one should never use a cross-slide to do that (that's exactly why Adam kept messing up everything - tool pressure was growing tremendously on each step since both sides of the tool were engaged in the cut). Chris, on the other hand, showed the correct technique of using the compound slide - that allows to engage only the left side of the threading tool and keep the proper pressure.
Love your content
precision forced to redness
If my scratch Passos fine and I then need to make progressive deeper cuts in succession, do I increase the depth of cut useing the cross slide or the compound slide ?
I like your videos sir plz keep on.👏👏👍
I'm amazed by every single clip you share. Can't wait to see the full mashup (hours?) Once the antikythera is finished. With the extreme precision you demonstrate, it always makes Myles cringe when seeing the 'CE' (Chinese Export) tag...or as AvE says; 'The Mark Of The Beast' I secretly ponder ti myself if the mechanism will work, given that the tolerances are basically 0.0000001mm and you're not using a sub-mm DRO. Granted, the folks who built the original didnt either, so it'll be interesting to measure the planets and stars over time. You obviously kno what you're doing...so maybe take a little hint from Jimmy Diresta & ABom79 and slap a ClickSpring sticker over those CE tags (lathe, tool holder, etc.) ;) love your stuff regardless
James Bramlett CE is a certification mark that means it meets the standards to be sold in the European Union,
@@danvanmuizenberg6650 - I'm aware, but the CE on his lathe looks a bit more like the Chinese Export version. I'm tending to go with your assessment in this case as the tolerances he deals with seem too tight to use a cheap tool. Thx
Ya know, it's almost disgusting the level of perfection of the tools you make, Chris. You should be ashamed!
No, the trouble is that we feel ashamed at our skills compared to the level of Chris" skillset in all manner of things. It is no wonder that he spotted something with that ancient clock that required writing a University paper about it.
Amazing
Got a question I just bought a Nardin-TT 1230 E and on the threading chart it has 13 1/2 tpi and no listing for 13 am missing something on overlooking it when I need to thread 13 tpi
Very great job idolo 😊👍👍👍
Yo siempre utilice el pinacho L1 200 para tallar roscas ya que este torno posee todos los pasos de roscas.
I have machines thousands of threads from 3mm dia. To 800 mm dia. and never set the compound on an angle. I never understood why machinist do that.
Same I never rotate the compound angle just leave it at 0 deg. I always leave the half nut engaged and just instant reverse , also side cut (backwards ) , I like cutting 2start acme , quite rewarding when it fits perfectly 👍👍
Excellent
Nice you should get some thread pins save you removing the tail stock to check fit!!
Perfect operation. 🙏 only we (beginner) hoping explanation
C'mon Chris, does that little thing not have a thread dial? Very cool, btw. I absolutely *hate* single pointing. This video made it look almost soothing. Nicely done.
This is great ❤️❤️
What Is the name of operation did by you to get LAND on threads at the end of video
Reply fastly please
is... is this a responce video to Adam Savage having a hard time doing this very thing?
Could be! Chris is an Aussie, so he would enjoy stirring up Adam just to get a bite. I think Adam mentioned that he watches Clickspring and has probably chatted with Chris, so there is even more reason to back up your theory.
@@markfryer9880 Maybe not so much a dig than as a bit of a tutorial, maybe?
sir tread banane wala tool dusra Hota hai ya ek hi tool se ruff aur thread ban jata hai
Absolutely loved watching you shape that cutter!! The very last thing you did with the wood handled cone thing... First off, what was it? Secondly did it just slightly flatten the threads you just cut??
It's a hand vise...the cone (connected to the handle) will force apart two levers that are connected to the jaws over fulcrum points. So you tighten/loosen the jaws with that screw.
Thank you. May I ask the make and model of your he lathe in the video?
Certainly, the lathe in this video is an SC4, you can find more detail here: www.mini-lathe.com/m4/C4/c4.htm - Cheers :)
@@ClickspringClips thank you very much