Thanks Darren, great input! I actually got the diff in this morning (spoiler alert) and you're right, it was loads easier with it back in the cradle but I think if I do it again, I'll still remove the cradle for initial alignment. I read your comment come through literally as I was in the queue at Halfords picking up the 14mm bit! I've got an array of oil syringes from Lotus supercharger oil changes, so got plenty to play with for fill time.
@@k.townend agreed, it’s much easier to align the cradle without the weight of that diff! If you haven’t already it’s worth covering the entire length of the long top bolt with copper grease to ensure it comes back out should the need arise. (Except the end that goes into the nyloc) I used a chunky pin punch to hold it then added the bolts one by one for anyone else reading this.. One important thing to note is that vibration loosens the diff bolts, so once you’re up and running check them regularly! Mine are now lock-wired after I almost lost one, however I’m not sure if you can do that in the academy.
The fill plug is the 14mm hex that looks like a Torx lower down. Not the one at the top. It’s easier to fill the diff through the boot floor with a funnel cable tied to the roll bar and 10mm tube. Put some tape around 2” from the end of the tube so you can see if the hose is accidentally coming out of the diff. You don’t want to be pouring it on the floor because the hose has moved and that’s an easy way of checking. ASK sell the tube if you don’t have any. A syringe would work from below but it’s messy and not as easy to check quantity going in. I think it’s 850ml now despite what the manual says. A ratchet strap on the roll bar or engine lifter like you said will stop it falling off the jack. 2 pairs of hands would also work. Spacing is fine but put the cradle on the diff before it goes in. That way you will have wiggle room (washers) to get the diff between the chassis as the cradle is a very snug fit on the diff. Great vids.
Thanks Darren, great input! I actually got the diff in this morning (spoiler alert) and you're right, it was loads easier with it back in the cradle but I think if I do it again, I'll still remove the cradle for initial alignment.
I read your comment come through literally as I was in the queue at Halfords picking up the 14mm bit! I've got an array of oil syringes from Lotus supercharger oil changes, so got plenty to play with for fill time.
@@k.townend agreed, it’s much easier to align the cradle without the weight of that diff!
If you haven’t already it’s worth covering the entire length of the long top bolt with copper grease to ensure it comes back out should the need arise. (Except the end that goes into the nyloc)
I used a chunky pin punch to hold it then added the bolts one by one for anyone else reading this..
One important thing to note is that vibration loosens the diff bolts, so once you’re up and running check them regularly!
Mine are now lock-wired after I almost lost one, however I’m not sure if you can do that in the academy.
The fill plug is the 14mm hex that looks like a Torx lower down. Not the one at the top. It’s easier to fill the diff through the boot floor with a funnel cable tied to the roll bar and 10mm tube. Put some tape around 2” from the end of the tube so you can see if the hose is accidentally coming out of the diff. You don’t want to be pouring it on the floor because the hose has moved and that’s an easy way of checking. ASK sell the tube if you don’t have any.
A syringe would work from below but it’s messy and not as easy to check quantity going in.
I think it’s 850ml now despite what the manual says.
A ratchet strap on the roll bar or engine lifter like you said will stop it falling off the jack. 2 pairs of hands would also work.
Spacing is fine but put the cradle on the diff before it goes in. That way you will have wiggle room (washers) to get the diff between the chassis as the cradle is a very snug fit on the diff.
Great vids.