Thanks for the video Chuck. In case you missed my post on Chuck's last video, I also have the exact same charge controller. I tested it for noise on the bands by setting it up with my radio, charge controller, solar panel, battery and a ham stick antenna all on the same table. I got more noise than check did because of having the antenna so close to everything. I took a FT-240-43 toroid and made a bunch of wraps of the output cable from the charge controller to the battery. This cleaned up all the noise on the bands. This controller has worked well in the field with my portable set up. I'm not getting any noise on the bands. When you compare the cost to other compact MPPT controllers, this is an excellent deal. I know chuck is planning on powering other things than radio with this. In that case, the noise it puts out is not an issue unless you are working radio near it. Then it might be and you would need the toroid. I don't know this to be a fact as I have only used this controller for radio. As usual, Chuck is killing it with great and HONEST reviews. I wish some other you tube creators would do the same. Thanks Chuck !
@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures I thought about trying a FT 140-43, but didn't have one. I'll get one ordered. It will make my qrp pack lighter. Thanks for the info Chuck.
Hi Chuck, I have the 10A version if this and I love it, I was just about to add a bluetooth meter and shunt to the system, but saw these beauties with bluetooth! My question is with the bluetooth app and historical data. Does it store the data onboard the controller? So if i leave my camp and come back later in the day, I can see the stats for the day? Or will it only record while the bluetooth connectoon is active?
6:21 "always hook positive first" It is generally completely irrelevant which pole of a battery is connected first. There are some situations where it makes sense to make such rules, but they completely depend on the situation. A good general rule would be to close and open the circuit, which can cause sparks, far away from flammable substances, like gasoline or lead acid batteries which can produce an explosive mix of hydrogen and oxygen. Most cars have negative on the chassis, but not all! Some historic cars and old mopeds may be the other way around. If you know that negative is on the chassis, make the positive connection to the battery first and close or open the circuit by connecting to the chassis (which is negative), far away from the battery. But as I said, it depends on the situation, know what you are doing. In case of the shown setup, connect the cable to the battery first. Then the close the connection between that cable and the charger, which is also the first to disconnect.
![How MPPT Saves You Money [Bateria Power]](/img/n.gif)
Thanks for the video Chuck. In case you missed my post on Chuck's last video, I also have the exact same charge controller. I tested it for noise on the bands by setting it up with my radio, charge controller, solar panel, battery and a ham stick antenna all on the same table. I got more noise than check did because of having the antenna so close to everything. I took a FT-240-43 toroid and made a bunch of wraps of the output cable from the charge controller to the battery. This cleaned up all the noise on the bands. This controller has worked well in the field with my portable set up. I'm not getting any noise on the bands. When you compare the cost to other compact MPPT controllers, this is an excellent deal. I know chuck is planning on powering other things than radio with this. In that case, the noise it puts out is not an issue unless you are working radio near it. Then it might be and you would need the toroid. I don't know this to be a fact as I have only used this controller for radio. As usual, Chuck is killing it with great and HONEST reviews. I wish some other you tube creators would do the same. Thanks Chuck !
John I just used a smaller toroid and it took all the noise out, so that will make it into the build also!
@KK6USYHamRadioAdventures I thought about trying a FT 140-43, but didn't have one. I'll get one ordered. It will make my qrp pack lighter. Thanks for the info Chuck.
You're suppose to hook the battery up first, then the panels.
Appreciate the detailed info. Thanks Chuck & Kathy (Cathy).
Thanks Kevin "Kathie"
Very thorough chuck super details as usual. Nice video
PowerWerx has a great little compact MPPT controller. Powerwerx MPPT-150-14.6
Hi Chuck, I have the 10A version if this and I love it, I was just about to add a bluetooth meter and shunt to the system, but saw these beauties with bluetooth!
My question is with the bluetooth app and historical data. Does it store the data onboard the controller? So if i leave my camp and come back later in the day, I can see the stats for the day? Or will it only record while the bluetooth connectoon is active?
So this is for using with solar panels that do not have a built-in charge controller, is that correct?
Hey, have you noticed if it stops charging after the batteries are full?
Yes it does, and also slows down just before charged.
Thank you, do you like the product?
If you look at those connectors it came with, it is to reverse polarity if needed.
6:21 "always hook positive first"
It is generally completely irrelevant which pole of a battery is connected first. There are some situations where it makes sense to make such rules, but they completely depend on the situation. A good general rule would be to close and open the circuit, which can cause sparks, far away from flammable substances, like gasoline or lead acid batteries which can produce an explosive mix of hydrogen and oxygen.
Most cars have negative on the chassis, but not all! Some historic cars and old mopeds may be the other way around. If you know that negative is on the chassis, make the positive connection to the battery first and close or open the circuit by connecting to the chassis (which is negative), far away from the battery. But as I said, it depends on the situation, know what you are doing.
In case of the shown setup, connect the cable to the battery first. Then the close the connection between that cable and the charger, which is also the first to disconnect.
Good info and cant wait for the next video. KO4HPC 73
SAE connectors are how they get you 😮
Right?