EP 51 2004 Jaguar S Type part 2 (Rear Suspension)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I install new rear inner and outer tie rods, upper control arms, and sway bar end links. Looking closer, I notice it needs brake pads. My being unfamiliar with the EBC system caused some damage, including braking the parking brake line, and cutting the hydraulic hose for the brake caliper. After searching junkyards and Ebay, I find the parts required to get the system fixed. The mug in the beginning was made by my friends, you can find them at Leija Handmade on the FB.
Jags and craftsmen tools, two of my favourites.
Great video I’m looking forward to the progress.
Thanks. Always loved Jags, took me long enough to get one. Working on part 3 now. Remember when you could take your broken tools to Sears and get a replacement, no questions asked? Pepperidge Farm remembers.
Nice, I’ve been mulling the s-type, I’ve been lucky enough to have had the XJ and X-type when I lived in the UK.
I live in Vancouver now and have built a collection of the vintage craftsman USA tools to put on my new (Lowe’s) craftsman tool chest.
Keep up the good work 👍
Glad mine didn't come.with a sunroof mines a 2007 s type 2.7 turbo deisel 77.000 great car had alot spent on it welding wise 👍 great vids
Thanks. I wish diesel would have caught on over here, I'd love a diesel Jag estate. Alas, we have to stick with petrol. Boo.
@wrenchesinmotion3282 it's a transit van engine basically turboed up 207 bhp
Tip I've been using on similar BMW control arms with ball joints to counter hold the ball joint to remove a rusted nut: use a grinder with a cut-off wheel to cut thru the aluminum housing of the ball joint, once that is off you can expose the steel end of the ball joint and then use a small pipe wrench to counter hold the ball itself and twist the nut off with the wrench/socket. It works like a charm, but does require the annoyance of cutting thru the ball joint housing. I've used it not on several large ball joint nuts where the small 8-10mm counter hold end stripped or just didn't give me enough counter holding leverage.
I had to cut the inner tie rod ends off, ball joints were easy compared to those. Of course had to cut the sway bar end links off as well. But, all good to go now.
I gonna follow your videos, I've just bought a S type too (V8 1999) recently and I've just done the same work on the rear suspension last week. Same pieces changed except for the brake cable. i'm gonna check my roof drain thanks.
Thank you for coming along for the ride. The brake cable was of course my fault, but at least now I know how the electric parking brake works. Part 3 we do front suspension, and PCV valve I believe. And install the missing engine cover.
I replaced the anti-roll drop links a few years back, I ended up using mole grips to hold the 8mm in place.
Great videos!
Thank you, it means a lot to get a positive comment. Appreciate it.
As a recent Cat owner (S-Type) with similar rear problems, I'm a bit puzzled as to why you don't drop the whole rear suspension and sort it on the bench... check and bleed brakes, springs, etc.
Well I guess because of my limited tools. Sure would be nice to have a lift so I can do things like that. Besides, the suspension wasn't broken, just a little worn out. i can still crawl around under them.
Hello, I need the rear upper control arms replaced and although I’m not a mechanic it looks like I’m quite capable of doing the job, is it a case of undoing 3 nuts and replace? How long would you allow for the job, many thanks
I don't think they were too difficult. Give yourself an hour and a half per side. Should have time left over.
Did you get the top wishbone bolts out ok,? some people say you have to lower subframe
Yep, they came out fine.
Hello, I have a Jaguar Stype 4.0 and I have vibrations in the steering wheel. When they are most noticeable, they are in the speed range of 100 to 120 km/h I changed the tires, discs and pads and it was their turn to change and I also thought that the failure could come from there but no... now I have thought about changing the steering knuckles and scraping the bushings since it may be that with the rust they do not fit correctly, do you think I am going in the right direction? What do you substitute in the video that was produced in the car?
Vibrations are usually caused by what you have replaced. I would have a good look at all of your front suspension components. Loose tie rod ends (check the inner tie rods as well, nobody does that), ball joints etc. I'm fortunate that I don't have to deal with rust. Does the vibration stay when you put the car in Neutral? That would rule out driveline vibrations.
@@wrenchesinmotion3282 thank you very much for answering! the ball joints are with broken plastics... but they do not show any play The car only vibrates when moving specifically above 100 km/h until 120 and then the vibration decreases
@@javijimenezvelasco1681 That really sounds like a rotation issue. Even though you already did the usual suspects. I have a similar issue on my BMW, only vibrates at certain speeds. Haven't figured it out yet. If you put the car in neutral when the vibrations are there, do they go away, or stay there? Could be transmission mount if it goes away. Check your rear diff fluid as well.
@@wrenchesinmotion3282 Hello friend, my car is automatic. I am going to test this week for any jolt in the wheels and see what happens.
I have a question for you is there any way possible you could let me know how to remove a power steering pump from their car the same car you have but you appreciate it
I can't really tell, since it's buried in there pretty well. The pics look like they show 4 bolts holding it to the block. So, it would be the two lines, 4 bolts and of course the serpentine belt first. Sorry I can't be of more help.