DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2023
- Video 1 DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade L86 & L83 Part 1 Disassembly cam lifters
• DOD AFM Delete Yukon, ...
Stretch belts using zip ties instead of specialty tool
• Drive Belts Replacemen...
*Still updating and uploading other videos, stay tuned
Camshaft used (Stock replacement for non-DOD) amzn.to/3UmZy1N
Crankshaft bolt (one time use OEM 2014-2022 Engine Crankshaft Pulley 11547372) amzn.to/48ohuNZ
LS7 Lifters and trays amzn.to/3t56LrD
Camshaft retainer plate amzn.to/3rgF6Ud
Crankshaft holding tool amzn.to/48uqvVV
Crankshaft balancer puller tool 4" 24-3004 KT amzn.to/49JmQEc
Crank Balancer install tool amzn.to/4642Dqf
1/2" drive torque wrench 250 lb ft rating amzn.to/3PSZbcF
Inch pound torque wrench amzn.to/3ES83ZE
Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP (1 quart unless you lose a lot more ) amzn.to/3LBssG5
GM Genuine Parts 12623757 Engine Valve Lifter Oil Filter amzn.to/3PPQgsi
Paint Pens amzn.to/3t5M4fc
Fuel Pump alignment tool amzn.to/3ryijmF
Exhaust manifold bolts amzn.to/463ARdx
Vacuum Pump(Optional) amzn.to/3rq1xpS
Engine Assembly Lube amzn.to/461sjEc
Thread Sealant amzn.to/3Rydoge
Gasket Remover (pack of 6 recommended) amzn.to/3EQpEkx
Intake Manifold Gaskets 12626354 sold individually, need 8 (Verify compatibility) amzn.to/458RByO
Plastic Scraper amzn.to/3LDVbtR
Q tips 6" amzn.to/46oYSLQ
Oil pressure sensor (Optional) 12727099
Line wrench 17mm amzn.to/3RyKH2J
13mm allen socket amzn.to/3tbWcCW
17mm crows foot amzn.to/48pmu50
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2015-2018 12734067
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2019+ 12697047. amzn.to/3RHXf8e
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL109 amzn.to/45eHQ2d
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL704
High Pressure Fuel Pump GDP105 (Optional) (standard brand)
Fuel pump lifter (Standard brand) GDF103. amzn.to/45jVEIx
Water pump gaskets 12657430 (251-2066) amzn.to/3ZG51kX
Spark plugs iridium 12622441. amzn.to/46hSu9F
Exhaust manifold gaskets 12657093 amzn.to/3LLbh4V
GM 12623104 Engine Valley Pan Gasket amzn.to/3LIPevO
ACDelco W0133-3149153-ACD - Genuine GM Parts Engine Coolant Water Pump (Optional) amzn.to/48zuVL6
Fuel line disconnect tools amzn.to/48zmQGe
Ingersol Rand impact www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
Coolant 3-4 needed amzn.to/46FIuXU
Motor Oil. 8 quarts needed amzn.to/46ETyEH
Oil filter (verify compatibility) amzn.to/3Fs8CK8
Main drive belt 12626076 amzn.to/3oNcjVM
A/C belt 12658178 amzn.to/3IWSLFr
Vacuum pump belt 12643517 amzn.to/3P0x4Ii
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
• Yukon / Tahoe / Suburb...
Huge shoutout to other great channels I used as a reference for this project. See below for their channels
• DOD/AFM
Perform at your own risk. I assume no liability for injury, damage, death, etc. Refer to your owners manual. Demonstration purposes only
I am an amazon affiliate, so purchasing through the links I provide may support the channel with a small referral commission. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you so much for this! I basically had your videos as my go to source and THEN the AllData printouts as a backup. Incredibly informative! Just FYI for the other garage diy'ers out there, my timing chain retention mechanism was brittle. I tried to be careful with it when compressing it, but it ended up being a worst case scenario. The thing broke in half and fell down in the oil pan... I had to order the oil pump alignment tools and spent an extra day dropping the diff, steering gear, and pan! On the bright side, it made getting dot-to-dot easier, lol. Anyway, thanks again!
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched these two videos. I’m in the middle of reassembly after doing dod vvt delete and your tutorial has been a HUGE help. Thanks man!
Glad it helped. It’s a big project. 👍🏼
Always impressed by your quality of work. Great job! Now with that annoying DOD/AFM gone, the Yukon will last you a very long time.
One of the best how to videos I have watched! Very detailed, patient, so impressed!! Definitely will subscribe to your channel.
I know you've sold the Yukon at this point but just wanted to say thank you for the clear concise videos you've put together on the DOD delete. My 2014 GMC sierra lost a regular lifter at 270k last week. I feel lucky to have that many trouble free miles. Ive done plenty of LS stuff on my GTO and a DOD delete on my old 2009 GMC many years ago. Your videos made the gen 5 5.3 much less intimidating. The best automotive how to videos ive ever watched on youtube.
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Even though I sold it, I still have the knowledge and I’m always willing to help others as much as I can. 👍🏼
This helps a lot...I'll be doing mine when the heads are ready
Just an awesome video. Great work. Thank you.
Thanks for a great video. It was a big help in my DOD delete on my 2018 5.3 Silverado.
Great video series. Thanks for sharing.
Great detail. Well done gents
Fantastic video. Thank you for posting this. 🍻
I just did my lifters thank to your detailed video.
Did just also replaced the cam shaft? Would it work without replacing the cam shaft?
Nicely done video. We replaced the failed factory AFM system with with a stage 2 Tooley Racing cam, solid lifters, comp valve springs and rockers, hi flow oil pump, and Shortuning the ECM plus TCM. Serious increase in HP. Running only high performance 20-50w oil. Engine uses zero oil, small decrease in fuel economy but worth the added performance.
I thought newer engines needed the thinner oils that get up through the top of the motor? 20W-50 oil has got to thick as lard. What about when it gets cold and the oil flows even less upon start-up? Won't that damage the top of the engine? Either way, it sounds like you know more than I do on the subject at hand.
how much was the price for the tune?
Thank you! Very informative
Excellent work Dan !
Thanks! Hopefully it can help some people out
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage once I'm out of warranty... I will be referring back to these video series.
Thank you. Great video!
Love the garage DIY dial indicator to determine TDC! Had me laughing but I’m sure it was on, just not exactly ideal.
Mr Danny when you can come and work on my suburban 😂
If I knew for sure a shop would be this meticulous I’d have them do it. Can I fly you out to MA? 😂
Great video.
Thank you very much for sharing this great video.
Glad you enjoyed it. I wished I had one to follow when I was doing it. There are other good ones, but pulling the engine and lengthy. I’m glad to hear they are being enjoyed
I feel so much more confident that I can begin this project, I am so so scared to do this but I have downloaded and save these two videos so that I can watch and rewatch as needed. Pray for me 😮😮
Excellent job you may want to service the transmission if you haven’t done it already .
Careful when prying on the chain!! While following this series this weekend, the tip of my screwdriver broke off, and i had to remove the upper oil pan to find it… not a good time
I Have a 2022 Sierra and am glad it doesn't have DOD on it!
Actually, I believe it does it now on all 16 lifters now calling it dynamic fuel management. I’ve even hear of more lifter failures on newer models where they won’t allow the customer to take delivery until it’s had repairs performed
gmauthority.com/blog/gm/general-motors-technology/general-motors-propulsion-technology/general-motors-dynamic-fuel-management-cylinder-deactivation-technology/?_gl=1*6v9g9w*_ga*UGRSSmVyNEhSQ1VORGtadGd4bDZIckFLdjRUQ01lazNzTS1Od3l2c25kMzh3blhQTy1fRHhndWpQVTZUTldCWQ..
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the salesman told me that because of the chip shortage, it was never put in. It's not even shown on my instrument cluster.
@@loviebrownlow6983that's partially correct. All engines still got all of the mechanical parts of the AFM/DOD. Due to chip shortages, some vehicles didn't get the ECM to make it work. Your engine still has this. It's just deactivated.
Nice
Great job on the work and taking the time to video. Appreciate it!
Did you rebuild the cam phaser and put in a limiter or are you still keeping it variable?
I kept it stock because I used a stock replacement cam. There is a great video out there for the lockout th-cam.com/video/FEvH-g_RfKI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=5vxcn_mUrjaY5e2P
Mark the chain sprocket and block to be sure they don’t move and go back to the same spot
Buen trabajo, solamente te sugiero cubrir con cinta adhesiva los puertos de admisión todo el tiempo así te evitarás tener sorpresas desagradables
Si, Tania bolsas plásticas puesto mucho del tiempo hasta que puesto la intake manifold
What changes were made to the tune? I disabled afm/dod with hp tuners, but dont know what other changes to make
Thanks a ton!!! Completed Video 1 and now one to video 2. Mine is in a 2019 Tahoe but is a 5.3 L83. When I pulled my High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter the hole was positioned to the Driver Side. Do I put it back that way? Does it make a difference?
That timing chain was a beast but I got it.
Thanks again!!
It may be different for 2019 (as well as the vvt cam bolt like you’ll see later in the video. I would assume it’s best to go back how it came
Will the camshaft shown in the video maintain the same engine torque as before, knowing that it is a camshaft intended for the 5.3 and 6.2 engines?
Great video. I love the fine details that you went through. Out of curiosity, and I may have missed it, why didn't you go ahead and replace the oil pump since you possibly had metal in the engine?
The oil pump requires pulling the engine (or dropping the oil pan and partially pulling the engine. It has to be perfectly centered upon re-installing (unless you buy a new pump apparently) or use tools that didn’t really work that you’ll see in the videos. I don’t find any metal in the oil lifter filter screen and the other lifters appeared to catch the other small pieces. I guess I was just at the point to give it a try or go with a whole new engine but didn’t want to pull the new heads off a new engine to remove the collapsable lifters. It was a little complicated
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I love this walkthrough...it's been so helpful. I'm in the middle of doing this to my wife's Escalade ESV, and I tried a little to walk that chain off the cog but decided to go ahead and pull the pan. It's a lot more work, but since it's only a 2WD, I only had to lower the steering rack to get it out. The 4WD models require pulling the differential...ewww. Glad I did because putting on that pump is much easier when it's new. Also, cleaning out all the build-up at the bottom of the pain makes me feel better. I was surprised at how much of the timing cover gasket fell into the pan even though I covered the opening.
Awesome video. Great camera and audio. The only question I have is that I didn't see the solenoids that operate the old AFM lifters. Did that connector and solenoid remain connected or removed? I thought it was mounted on the valley cover plate but didn't see it in your video. Thanks again for filming and sharing this.
Yes, all solenoids are on the bottom of the VLOM valley plate. They are still there, just not being used. It could make it easier in the event you ever wanted dod again.
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
Nice Video man, im about to do my buddies Silverado, had a couple questions, ive done gen 4s and was wondering if u ended up removing the oil pan and oil pump at all? Every video i see they remove both . Also ive seen they also lock the phaser.
The Gen 5 has some differences that make it a little more difficult. The oil pump goes down into the oil pan, so it cannot be removed without dropping the pan. It also has a sensor (I believe for the variable oil pump) that has a cord going into the bottom of the oil pan area which also would need to be removed and is not accessible with the pan on. The most challenging part of the oil pump is that it must be perfectly centered when reinstalled, and the centering tools they sell do not do a good job of that. You would need to take the oil pump cover off and put .002 shims around the pump on 3 places to try to center it again. For these reasons, I believe the shop manual calls to pull the engine and charges 34 hours. In the video we work around the oil pump to avoid all this. It does leave some problems if you had a lot of metal shavings in the engine, so you’ll decide if you want a new oil pump. Leaving the oil pump on makes it impossible to see the crank timing dot, so pay attention to how we lock the crank at Top dead center for piston 1 (driver side) and look for the alignment arrow to point down. You also have to walk the chain off the timing gear. It’s all in the videos, but there is a reason we do what we do. If you plan to pull the engine out, do all the oil pump and seals on the pan. Locking the phaser is best if you are gong to a larger cam where it would be a problem for the phaser to rotate. If using the stock replacement non-DOD cam as you see in this video, leave the phaser unlocked for better low end torque and better all around performance.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage man! I appreciate you! Thanks for replying & God bless You!
Hi. Thank you for your video. We are doing the same now with 2023, 6.2 l. We use texas speed kit. But it kit doesn't have a new fuel pump lifter. Do you think it is a problem?
If the fuel pump lifter doesn’t show wear marks it should be fine. It’s up to you if you want to put one in while it’s apart or have to remove the vlom cover again
Great video sr! I have 2016 cadillac escalade 6.2L has misfire cylinders #2 do i have to remove the cam too? Or just replacement the lifters?
I would remove the lifters and look down in and see if the cam is chewed up
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageok thank you for u time, it looks a lot work, i can't go that far 😔
Nobody replaces the crank shaft seal? Kind of hard I know because you can’t remove the cover from the oil pump plug. I guess they don’t leak?
Thanks for the video. Has been a big help.
Yeah, it’s always hard to know if you’ll make it worse when it’s not broken lol
When replacing the oil pump. What is the procedure? I have a new oem GM oil pump and chain tensioner. Will I need to align the new one or can I just stick it on there and torque it down?
To my understanding, a new pump can be installed normally whereas an old pump must be perfectly centered. Don’t take my word for it, that’s just what I have heard
When your timing marks are pointing at each other on the crankshaft and the cam phaser, and you’re at top dead center, is that the intake and exhaust stroke, or is that the power stroke?
I believe it was the exhaust stroke with the arrow, pointing to the dot.
Was t there some mods that have to be done to lower intake manifold? Maybe that just the older AFM delete kits? Thanks
Not that I know of for this L86 engine
@danny johnson's garage may i ask what software was being used by your friend to delete the AFM programming and to set up the new tuning?
I’m not sure the brand he uses.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well heck...
The cam phaser bolt is actually not a one time use bolt. As per GM spec it is a 2 times use; with a different toeque spec for second time use.
Unless it’s overstretched and bottoms out, mine did that but my delete kit came with a new bolt
I love you video if I could donated I would I just have one question. Why didn’t you guys go with 5w30 instead of 0w20?
On older vehicles I ran 5w30 and the only reason I was hesitant was this was I worried designed for 5w20 for the lifters. I could probably do 5w30 now
So glad I don't have this year GM vehicle. My 07 Silverado 1500 has the 4.3 L v6. Thank God it doesn't have the AFM
The thing is I really wanted the 5.3L motor to tow my travel trailer. The V6 can't handle it, the LS motor would definitely do the job. The conversion would cost too much money 💰
What torque wrench is that you’re using? Looks like it works good
Cobalt for the inch pound and Dewalt for the foot pound www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVE1C84/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01JVE1C84&linkId=ff39b81a9bcc51b69162c331ea765925
Is the passenger side head bolts the same torque specs as driver side, the first top one specifically
Yes, they all have the same torque and procedure you will see in the video, except the driver side front Allen bolt
Hello. I've been putting together escalade 6.2 year 2009 lately until i came across lifters. Does it matter which side the hole on lifters is pointed?
I have been told it does not matter for the lifters, but you may want to contact a professional mechanic at a dealership to also verify
I am surprised you didn’t put a bigger mild performance cam, new double roller timing, chain and gears in as well???
I wanted as few variables as possible, and a stock replacement. I didn’t want to worry about aftermarket components, new valve springs, and worse fuel economy. The truck has plenty of power as it comes, and it’s a family vehicle
th-cam.com/video/6VzX7rETZIY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=DxLaVU01hJaxqi6-
Hello I did a AFM DELETE ON A 2015 I marked the timing marks good also after install I check everything lined up perfect wen I was finished I ended up with a code P0016, truck drive and starts right up great but I get check engine light about 5th crank up and way to adjust this please let me know thank you
Did you ever solve this? Hopefully, it was something easy. If you didn't pull the oil pump, I'm curious if you were off a tooth like he was.
Hey Danny, love the video. I am doing this repair at home myself. I left the engine in the car, now I am regretting it, and I was able to take all the parts apart and get the phaser out. However, after installing the new cam and camp plate, I am stuck and I am not able to get the new phaser in. I broke one last night and I just picked up a brand new phaser for $225 and I don’t want to break another one. It looks like you got the phaser back in easy. How do you do that? I am at the point of trying to drop the oil pan and then remove the oil pump so I can get that chain back around the phaser.
If the vlom cover is still off, I found it useful to push the cam slightly forward towards the front of the car with your fingers so you can line up the phaser and rotate the cam until the nub on the cam seats in the phaser hole. It really helps to have someone else there to help walk the chain on. It’s tight but one link at a time it’s possible. Be sure the timing arrow is pointed directly down and the crank has not moved at all (hopefully you have the flywheel tool in place to lock it from moving).
Thank you for the reply. I was able to finally get it on by loosening the oil pump bolts, took 5 hours but got it all lined up with cylinder 1 TDC. Thank you!
Do you know the cam phaser cover torque specs for the three torx bolts?
The one shown at 1:34 into the video, 32 inch pounds is what the video said
Hi dany i have same problem 5.3l suburban 155000 ml i have one question when you have problem whith lifter the engine is shaking at the light or in traffik its like the engine wants to off taxometr is playing up and down 1-0.5 mph.thank you if you answer to me.
The lifter only makes sound unless it has also bent a pushrod, so it will shake at idle depending on if other damage happened. You will have to see as you tear it down what else is broken
I’ve had nothing but issues trying to get my Cam phaser back on top my timing chain. Already had the VVT break on me 2 times with 2 cam phasers. Am I missing something? Do I need smaller screw drivers?
Are you doing this alone or with a second set of hands?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage alone, do I need 2 hands?
Unfortunately I have to tear down my 5.3l to determine the current lifter failure damage. I am wondering why you didn't clean up the build up on the pistons, I am not a mechanic but love to learn new stuff on my vehicles to save money vs paying high labor rates good mechanics charge. I am thinking just to replace all the lifters if i have no cam damage but going the long block route remanufactured with delete of AFM already installed if I can find one rebuilt this way.
I cleaned them a little, but the less mess I made the better for contamination. I spent a lot of time on the head gasket mating surfaces and the intake valve ports
Do you have to replace the camshaft as well? Or will it work without replacing the camshaft?
If you do the delete it does require a new cam. If you only replace lifters it will only require a new cam if the bad lifters have scarred up the old cam, which is very likely. Once the heads and lifters are removed you can look down in at the cam and decide if you need to continue
th-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=q5ZQwduYnCXPmKnS
Where are you getting the info on the vehicle such as torque specs, replacement parts, ect?
I have googled each part, looking for GM replacements or even gone to the dealership to find what they have in their system
Your thoughts, after doing this, would it have been easier pulling the motor? Or no?
It’s hard to say. Pulling the engine, I would have done more with removing the oil pan and not having the chain pull over the timing set. I would have probably also added a new oil pump and seals..you saw all the oil come out of the head bolt holes- it would have been better to dump the engine upside down- but more work aligning the transmission back up. Part of me would have wanted a whole new engine, but they all come with the bad lifters
Do you need to add a cam phase limiter? Just wondering because I didn’t do it and now I’m watching other videos that people did add the limiter
For stock replacement cam specs it’s better not to add the limiter so you take advantage of the variable valve timing. If you install a larger duration cam, my understanding is that it may be needed to avoid any piston to valve clearance.
I got a stock cam from Brian tooley and upgraded lifters .225 he said I can reuse my stock push rods. I notice you got new ones that are smaller. Wonder if I need to do the same. I just got done torquing rocker arms to 22ft lb and I went to turn the crank and I get about a quarter turn then it feels stuck. Not sure if I should just try to continue rotating.?
Any idea how I can get the dowel out of the head it has driven itself in so far I can’t even grab it with needle noses should I try to use a tap to thread it or what
I would try to gently pry on it from inside the dowel with a flat head screw driver to lift it up, but be very careful not to scratch the mating surface of the head
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage got it out thanks man
Danny, the heads should be taken to the machin shop for rectification, or should not?
I don’t want to give poor advice, so a machine shop is recommended to go through them, make sure they are true (not warped), install new seals etc. I believe the way I removed the heads only 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence helps on aluminum heads and block from warping. For mine I simply cleaned them carefully with only gasket remover and a microfiber and plastic scraper and it all turned out okay. I also cleaned out the intake ports from all the gunk and it all seemed good.
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you very much for your advice, I really appreciate.
I watched this video with the meticulous care being given to every step then watched the Pakistani guys rebuild diesels and I felt conflicted....😀. All kidding aside I appreciate the video and information provided. GM has had issues with V8 push rod engine cams going flat since the 70s, guess they still prioritize profit over quality.
Roller cams solved that issue.
Now these blokes have to deal with DOD?
Life is to complicated
If you don't mind me asking. Roughly how much total were all the parts to do this? Just so i can budget for it for when i decide to do this
I’ll have to add it up and put it in the video description as an itemized list, but I also did a lot of things that may not have been necessary like the high pressure fuel pump, water pump, vacuum pump that I wanted to replace now rather than later , so plan on about $1,500 minimum to about $2,500 as seen in the video.
Awesome! Thank you!
Hey what cam shaft did you use and did you need to tune it? I’m looking into a DOD delete on 2016 Silverado 5.3 and looking into a Texas speed kit. I honestly just want to delete the DOD and AFM but for longevity not performance.
The cam I used is in the video description (but they go in and out of stock). It’s a stock replacement listed specifically for the 5.3 without dod
Got it. Did you need to tune it?
Hey not sure if you got my previous message. Did you need a tune?
@@rickyace09 yes, you will need a tune (I believe mostly from the variable oil pump and not getting codes for the solenoids not working). I would not try starting it without a tune
Question installing a plug in the oil pan
Drain plug?
No- preasure relief valve plug so it does dump shit load of oil on the crank and cause oil burning rings get over worked and metal contamination should HAVED removed pan and clean your not a very good mechanic. @@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Can you put a metal plug into where the lifter filter goes? Stopping oil pressure from being inside the vlom.
I’m not sure. Perhaps Brain Tooley racing can answer that.
I will send them a message and post my findings here.
You can get lifter plugs from texas speed
NEVER use a sanding block on the deck surface. First, you cannot get the surface flat. Second, you WILL get abrasives down into the engine.
NEVER use a rotary tool with a scotchbright pad. There is really no way to avoid removing soft aluminum from the deck leaving depressed areas that you cannot see by eye, and that the thin head gasket is not able to seal.
Great video. Quality workmanship and no corners cut. New parts where required and everything torqued to spec.
Well done and lots of great 'tips and tricks' along the way.
How did you get rid of the 'barking' that seems to have been coming from the belt.
The barking was the sound of the bad lifter vs the cam
3M makes a sctoch bright brush made for use on Aluminum parts, that if used properly is fine to use.
Was just watching the video again for the 100th time. Haha. When you tighten the cam phaser bolt down, you edit the video so it’s hard to see or determine how hard it was. I have the cam pin into the phaser and I just tightened mine down and I got the 58ft lb but it was hard to get the 90°. I got 45° then another 30° but not getting it all in one motion, I’m worried that bad boy will snap. My question is , how hard was it?
I was also worried about the additional 90* and getting it in one swoop may have been my problem as well (and wanting to make sure not to pass 90*). This is why I also made sure to get a new bolt so it wasn’t fatigued. I did my best for the 58 foot pounds and 90 degrees and it seemed to all work just fine
Right on. Thanks for the reply.
Here's my thoughts on this....first ,excellent video on doing this procedure! However, considering you've done all the hard parts ,why didn't you just order a new long block? Considering the damage done to the camshaft lobes and the fact you obviously had "have" metal particles floating throughout the engine. Also, considering the mileage, one would think that would have been the way to go. What we have with this video now is just another reason amongst the plethora of other reasons I never ever buy used vehicles. I also can't emphasize just how angry I would be with GM for not being responsible for this issue! I honestly feel for people who have purchased GM 5.3 or 6.2 vehicles with this engine. GM needs to fix this issue and make it right with current owners of this horribly designed engine! Smh.....
My thought was to tear it down and see what I found. I didn’t find shavings in the lifter filter, so I figured most metal ended up in the other lifters where you see the lines grooved into them. I considered my options, what held me back from a new long block was the fact it would come assembled with the dod lifters and I’d be starting over. I didn’t want to pull heads off a new engine. It definitely would be considered if this happens again or if I had problems afterwards. So far so good.
Imagine the person who is not mechanically inclined trying to tackle this work?
Cost prohibitive to many who would have to have a professional do the work.
I heard of the issues with AFM too that preceded your DOD. Not a fan of phasers either. I can see were these engines would become a literal train wreck if the oil was not properly changed: still prefer GM though.
Excellent video
No different than a dealer tech doing it and doing it fast. At least this was done with love
Cost of the long block and extra work to remove the old engine greatly exceeds the cost and difficulty of doing what has been done in this video. Just got done following along with this video to do a 2018 Silverado DoD delete and it was way easier than removing the engine entirely
will the torque specs be the same for the 5.3L?
They should be similar but I would double check them all
Did i miss the DOD delete part? You replaced cam and lifters??? What is the delete kit part? I’m confused
I also plugged the oil passages and a tune in the end. The cam is necessary as a non-dod
It’s at 42:47 into video 1
th-cam.com/video/cWayyZGNYRI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xdFBpqomfcG-mHiQ
Why use the shorter Chromoly Pushrods on a stock valvetrain components?
BTR told me to do so because they are LS7 lifters. According to them, they require 7.80” over factory 7.85”
Does your valvetrain seem quieter, the same or louder during engine operation with the Chromoly Pushrods?
@@HewigIsidore I haven’t noticed a difference in the valvetrain, but leaving the insulation off under the intake manifold, I could hear the direct injection a lot more. I left it off so I could check for fuel leaks, but I would have to take off the intake manifold to get it back under there. I probably should have just put it on.
Did you have to get a tune
Yes, it shows it at the end of the video. I believe it’s a variable pressure oil pump so without turning it off it could mess up the flow
The part of the water pump damaged was the housing you could have unbolted the water pump from the holes in the pulley and put the water pump in the other housing I did not see you block off the oil ports for the afm ports
This is video 2. See video 1
How many miles did your truck have
95,000. Way too few for this to happen, but it’s common, unfortunately
When deleting the DOD what did you do with the computer. It would have to be reprogramed
to eliminate the DOD settings. Not much luck around here finding someone who can do that, also I wouldn't trust sending it away, if it got lost or screwed up you lost a truck.
Yes, there are companies you can send it out to have it done
no VVT lockout?
Because I went with a stock replacement cam it was recommended to keep VVT for better torque performance. If I were going to a larger cam it would have been considered (and possibly required to not hit valves as I understand).
Why you ain't put new pistons
They were not damaged and I didn’t remove the engine
Can nub is at 3 o clock but you kept saying 9?
3’o clock, sorry
How much would you charge for a job like this? Wish i had your skills..
I put a video together discussing most of the cost. The hardest part of this for me was the time it took How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado
th-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/w-d-xo.html
Just wondering, you put so, so many new parts in there, for nothing??? Those fuel lines too?? nothing wrong with old ones, crank bolt?? Jus wondering....., otherwise good job !=)
I’m sure you could get away with reusing some, but the ones I replaced were TTY bolts that stretch. I especially didn’t want to chance a fuel leak under the intake manifold or snap a bolt for the the crank or camshaft. If I’m showing how to do it I try to show the best example. I even went with new manifold hardware.
How much do you charge a driver for that job?
I have a video showing the cost and what a dealer would charge. I don’t do this for others, only on my own vehicle th-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=gGwBpzqYh1tsgdmr
How many cost total of parts .thanks
Here is the breakdown th-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=MQ7GqjSsUplsQvbo
Sadly, I don’t have total cost of $150,000+/- or the muscle skills to work on it. I have a hematoma skull injury. Yet it’s best to be prepared for hidden damage and have the oil pan checked. I bought a used 2013 Chevy Avalanche (bait switched by the used car dealer), and found out 2005 was the first year this AFM/DFM DoD was installed.. I wanted a 2009 GMC Yukon.. I don’t have any real experience in fighting the used car “Bait Switchers”.. 😔😔😔😔
Did anyone just leave those four pain in the butt christmas trees at the back of the intake off? Seems like a lot of work for a harness that isn't going to move much anyway.
Yeah, I left the cover off and found it can’t be put back on without removing the intake manifold itself. I don’t see it being a problem but use your best judgement
I have seen this same issues with other GM products using the same engine, I wonder if it's just oil change neglect or just something worst-case just typical of this engine. If its the latter then thats aweful. Do cadillac use a similar engine.
Yes. It’s the same engine for the Cadillac Escalade 6.2L. Oil changes effect it for sure being the interval they are telling people is too long and gunks up the lifter filter and lifter ports. More info here th-cam.com/video/gEcxI2nwwxE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=3fDuvWsb-be1ESn1
Why click torque wrench twice
I have trust issues lol
7.800 push rod is longer than 7.500 too
7.80 new, 7.85 factory
Would the stock 7.850” pushrod cause much of an issue? Reading up on it in the midst of a DOD delete on my BILs truck and I think there’s some tolerance for slightly longer as long as it doesn’t bind the rocker, or take more than one and a half turns to seat. Thoughts?
I would have pulled the engine out
I almost did. There would be a lot of reasons it would be easier once it’s out.
GM should be ashamed of themselves for this issue!
I grew up with reliable suburbans. Not this. I also have a ton of videos for other things that should not be a problem like the tail lights, transmission harness, lift gate, temp sensor, thermostat…
EPA is the problem not Gm… dodge, ford, Mercedes all have differing versions of the same systems all of them destroy engines. The only full size suv not doing this is Toyota with the sequoia it’s completely unfair bs
I understand this is your car your rules etc, but why do you barely use electric tools? This job and the many you do would be so much faster. The majority of time working on cars you are either loosening or tightening bolts.
It’s just my preference for working with all aluminum. I typically use impacts to speed the process up after breaking fasteners loose, or like the crank bolt when an impact does the job best
Some of the stupidest engineering on this engine that I have ever been involved with.
GM has taken a good design and absolutely screwed it up. They could save 100’s of millions in labor on warranty work.
Gotta love engineers
Hello, how much does this engine repair cost?
Here is my video on dealer quotes and parts costs I made th-cam.com/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ur6108cvnkuNpDNx