Neil, you continue to build my faith in your long term relationship effort with your customers. We know we have to pay for maintenance and replace when necessary but you help us to keep what we have working as long as possible. Thank you!
I thought "Loose nuts on brand new tractor" was very descriptive of some folks I've seen recently, then I realized you were talking about lug nuts and fasteners on the loader. That's good advice, but I still say there are a lot of "loose nuts" sitting in the seats of tractors too.
Good info….Neil mentioned this once before and showed how their techs mark the bolts to show they’ve torqued them, but said to check em. I did when I got my used MX5200 with 70 hours on it…..I found my loader mount bolts weren’t even hand tight…all of them! Thanks for info then and now…saved me some big damage
@@TwoDogsBigYard you should use orange thread locker it holds better than Blue not as good as red but you don't need a torch to take it off. Blue is light duty, orange is medium duty, red is heavy duty/permanent.
2:47 you can also write the amount of foot pounds or inch pounds near the bolt/nuts, wait for it to dry then spray on some clear enamel, that way you don't have to look the numbers up every time.
I checked all the bolts & lug nuts on my tractor before I used it the first time, I was surprised the number that were not tight...then after the first use I checked them all again and seemed to be fine afterwards, but my salesman even said to check them often.
Good tip, Neil. My salesman suggested I check the torque on loader mounts and wheels after my first 10 hours of use. They painted these nuts after torquing them in set-up. I'm liking these fellers! And, my main reason for hopping in here, if one does not want to invest in a good torque wrench yet, some automobile parts stores RENT tools quite reasonably.
Thank you Neil. I did check the lug nuts per owners manual recommendation ( Did have a few looser than I was expecting to find) but failed to check the loader bolts. I also just ordered a metal marker on ebay for 3.50.
About 10 years ago I drove an hour north to buy a snowblower and cab for my Toro tractor. I took highway 61 back so that the cab wouldn’t blow out. Just as I was crossing a short bridge a 1 ton truck was going the other way pulling a big tandem axle trailer with duals. All at once lug nuts spilled onto the road like confetti then tires and wheels started going in all directions as the left side of the trailer bounced onto the pavement. One tire went just to the right of me, others down the road and one went way down into the creek. I grabbed the tire that went to my right while he was going after the others. I have chronic Lyme disease so I wasn’t going to fetch the one that went 20-30 down to the creek. The guy had just had new tires put on the left side of his trailer and the tech must not have tightened any lug nuts.
Excellent video. It's why I'm subscribed. JUST bought a new Kioti CK3510SEHST last weekend...first tractor. I love it, and trying to make sure I do everything right to upkeep it properly. And this video helps. Great call on the paint stick. Getting a few from Tractor Supply tomorrow, and picking up a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Thanks again for the info!
my old 4wd tractor, the bolt on the bell housing get loose, so is the bolt that hold the front axle, because of the force the 4wd put on those. about once a year I put a wrench on them, and often found a few loose
Its been 3 weeks. Im still waiting to get my 4060le but you can bet ill check it when I get it. Im gona check everything on it as if I have to rebuild the damn thing.
Great video, I've wondered why the lug nuts needed to be checked periodically when that's generally not necessary on an automobile. One tip I'd add - for the loader mast mounting bolts, get the longest torque wrench you can find (and afford!) The torque spec on those puppies on my tractor is 229 lb-ft!!! I picked up a Craftsman in July of this year on Amazon, it's almost 30" long. ($60 then, but today it's $100!) Has good reviews and it worked well.
What do you mean generally not needed on automobiles? Look it up anywhere, lug nuts should be retorqued after so much driving. Do you think so many tire places would offer this as a free service of it wasn't needed?
@@arthurr8670 You live in a very special place if the "tire places" offer free "lug nut re-torquing" services? It's completely unheard of with any car I've ever owned and any place I've ever lived. Now - if you had said that the re-torquing is taken care of by the "rotate tires after X thousand miles" that's found in just about every auto maintenance schedule, then you'd have a point. But that's not what you said.
@@freecycling6687 The tire places in my area will normally check this. Definitely so if you purchased your tires there. Anyway, to your original question, the manual of my old travel trailer stated that lug nut torques needed to be checked periodically because of the side load unique to trailers that is much greater than on a passenger vehicle. Tractors also experience a lot of these stresses, so that factor would put them in a category similar to trailers. Oh and back to vehicles, I have only ever read in my manuals to check them after about 50 miles of driving post tire rotation. I have never heard of checking them as part of periodic maintenance.
Yes, and nobody checks them, and the shops usually over-torque them because they know you aren't gonna check...the trouble is next time you try and remove a wheel, good luck because they put them on with a damn air impact wrench set to he-man tight LOL.
My manual says every 8 hours - buy a siphon. Why. While you siphon fuel into the tank check the bolts! Then grease. Also remember the bolts in the middle where you split the tractor - if you do anything on the front or back of the tractor (why would you have it if you didn't) these will work loose as well. Don't even get me started on a hidden bolts in backhoes under the operator platform that work loose there is a whole separate set of tools to reach some of them - ugh.
Not a tractor owner here, but I wish the video would have shown the best way to get over 100 ft-lbs. of torque on those rear nuts that are so deeply recessed into the wheel. It seems to me that you would need a deep socket and about a 6 inch extension and a long socket wrench. With two hands pulling hard on the wrench, how do you keep the socket from slipping off?
More like a 12 or 18 inch extension for those wheels on the back of the L series, I use a 10 inch extension and deep socket for the wheels on my BX2680...no way you are getting to them without extensions, then you have to remember anything you put on the end of that torque wrench actually causes a little bit of torque loss, but nothing you really can do about that when you have to use extensions. Haven't had any problems with the socket slipping off the lug nuts or bolts....that's usually caused by not having the proper size socket or wrench in the first place. Gotta make sure you are getting a straight line shot at the fastener, being off to the side or up or down will cause you to have an oops moment with a socket or wrench slipping off a fastener.
@@wildbill23c They sell little digital torque adapters that fit right between the extension and the socket. You can use a regular breaker bar and extension and still check the actual torque.
@@scottsmith2052 How accurate do you suppose those are? I've seen several of those around just never really figured they were even close to being accurate...although the least of my worries is getting lug nuts and other bolts exactly torqued down on a machine that vibrates and bounces around loosening every fastener over time anyways LOL.
@@wildbill23c I am looking at one on Amazon for $80 and +/- 2% accuracy, with a certificate of calibration. More than good enough for tractor tires regardless.
You misspelled paintstick in the description. You forgot the T and called it “painstick” but I guess it sorta technically correct name as it stops some pain later.
Neil I like your paint stick suggesting but you forgot that the problem is still there. I wonder if a owner could rent or borrow a high torque wrench from an auto parts or equipment rental store.
I once bought a new MF tractor ,one hour into its first day of field work the front wheel fell off ,bad enough ,but also broke the stubb axle as it dropped onto a large rock ,no comeback from dealer as i got the blame for not checking it over on delivery
My way: small nuts/bolts nr 1 on the impact gun, larger nr 2 and big ones nr 3. Or then a torsionbar... At least over here a 1/2" torquewrench for "wheelchanging" cost 40$, there is no need for a expensive tool for checking bolts on a tractor. When one takes the engine apart it's another ballgame...
Neil, you continue to build my faith in your long term relationship effort with your customers. We know we have to pay for maintenance and replace when necessary but you help us to keep what we have working as long as possible. Thank you!
Thanks. We've been doing this for 70 years, no plan to stop any time soon :-)
I thought "Loose nuts on brand new tractor" was very descriptive of some folks I've seen recently, then I realized you were talking about lug nuts and fasteners on the loader. That's good advice, but I still say there are a lot of "loose nuts" sitting in the seats of tractors too.
Lol
Not just behind tractor steering wheels
Good info….Neil mentioned this once before and showed how their techs mark the bolts to show they’ve torqued them, but said to check em. I did when I got my used MX5200 with 70 hours on it…..I found my loader mount bolts weren’t even hand tight…all of them! Thanks for info then and now…saved me some big damage
Excellent service tip, Neill! This is what sets you guys apart from everyone else. You're concerned about the customer experience after the sale👍
Good tips, it’s the little things we all forget about.
I found out the hard way how loose nuts can cause damage to the wheel hub and studs. Thank you for another helpful tip!
@@TwoDogsBigYard you should use orange thread locker it holds better than Blue not as good as red but you don't need a torch to take it off. Blue is light duty, orange is medium duty, red is heavy duty/permanent.
2:47 you can also write the amount of foot pounds or inch pounds near the bolt/nuts, wait for it to dry then spray on some clear enamel, that way you don't have to look the numbers up every time.
Under side of the hood is another good place for making notes
Very helpful. I have a new L4701. I will check these bolts.
You will find some loose ones, I did after only a few hours of use.
I checked all the bolts & lug nuts on my tractor before I used it the first time, I was surprised the number that were not tight...then after the first use I checked them all again and seemed to be fine afterwards, but my salesman even said to check them often.
One key factor to consider when you apply torque to a bolt
They can stretch over time especially when new
Yep, my mower said to recheck torque after so many hours
Loader brackets and lug nuts are one thing I had a lot of small fasteners at fenders grab handles come loose or fall off right out of the box
Good tip, Neil. My salesman suggested I check the torque on loader mounts and wheels after my first 10 hours of use. They painted these nuts after torquing them in set-up. I'm liking these fellers! And, my main reason for hopping in here, if one does not want to invest in a good torque wrench yet, some automobile parts stores RENT tools quite reasonably.
Thank you Neil. I did check the lug nuts per owners manual recommendation ( Did have a few looser than I was expecting to find) but failed to check the loader bolts. I also just ordered a metal marker on ebay for 3.50.
GREAT TIP NEIL, When i worked At G.M. all nuts and bolts were torqued and paint marked automatically.
About 10 years ago I drove an hour north to buy a snowblower and cab for my Toro tractor. I took highway 61 back so that the cab wouldn’t blow out. Just as I was crossing a short bridge a 1 ton truck was going the other way pulling a big tandem axle trailer with duals. All at once lug nuts spilled onto the road like confetti then tires and wheels started going in all directions as the left side of the trailer bounced onto the pavement. One tire went just to the right of me, others down the road and one went way down into the creek. I grabbed the tire that went to my right while he was going after the others. I have chronic Lyme disease so I wasn’t going to fetch the one that went 20-30 down to the creek. The guy had just had new tires put on the left side of his trailer and the tech must not have tightened any lug nuts.
Yup, the loader mounting bolts were loose when I checked them this summer on my BX. You work it hard, things will loosen up.
I wondered why there were paintstick lines on my lug nuts and wheels.
Tie your shoes! Good info. Thanks.
Excellent video. It's why I'm subscribed. JUST bought a new Kioti CK3510SEHST last weekend...first tractor. I love it, and trying to make sure I do everything right to upkeep it properly. And this video helps. Great call on the paint stick. Getting a few from Tractor Supply tomorrow, and picking up a torque wrench from Harbor Freight. Thanks again for the info!
my old 4wd tractor, the bolt on the bell housing get loose, so is the bolt that hold the front axle, because of the force the 4wd put on those. about once a year I put a wrench on them, and often found a few loose
I have a J D and all of the radiator hose clamps were loose. So were some of the hydraulic fittings.
Its been 3 weeks. Im still waiting to get my 4060le but you can bet ill check it when I get it. Im gona check everything on it as if I have to rebuild the damn thing.
Read the owner's manual? Good point.
Great video, I've wondered why the lug nuts needed to be checked periodically when that's generally not necessary on an automobile. One tip I'd add - for the loader mast mounting bolts, get the longest torque wrench you can find (and afford!) The torque spec on those puppies on my tractor is 229 lb-ft!!! I picked up a Craftsman in July of this year on Amazon, it's almost 30" long. ($60 then, but today it's $100!) Has good reviews and it worked well.
What do you mean generally not needed on automobiles? Look it up anywhere, lug nuts should be retorqued after so much driving. Do you think so many tire places would offer this as a free service of it wasn't needed?
@@arthurr8670 You live in a very special place if the "tire places" offer free "lug nut re-torquing" services? It's completely unheard of with any car I've ever owned and any place I've ever lived. Now - if you had said that the re-torquing is taken care of by the "rotate tires after X thousand miles" that's found in just about every auto maintenance schedule, then you'd have a point. But that's not what you said.
@@freecycling6687 The tire places in my area will normally check this. Definitely so if you purchased your tires there. Anyway, to your original question, the manual of my old travel trailer stated that lug nut torques needed to be checked periodically because of the side load unique to trailers that is much greater than on a passenger vehicle. Tractors also experience a lot of these stresses, so that factor would put them in a category similar to trailers. Oh and back to vehicles, I have only ever read in my manuals to check them after about 50 miles of driving post tire rotation. I have never heard of checking them as part of periodic maintenance.
The tires shop tell u to check lug nuts at 50 miles when u get tires from the and they put them on for u
Yes, and nobody checks them, and the shops usually over-torque them because they know you aren't gonna check...the trouble is next time you try and remove a wheel, good luck because they put them on with a damn air impact wrench set to he-man tight LOL.
I'm thankful my dealer 👉 Coleman Tractor warned me about this 👍
New or old, ive seen bolts come loose that make one scratch their head... vibration and torque can work anything loose.
I checked after 10 hours and found several bolts that were loose. I checked again at 50 hrs and found several more. So they do flex over time.
My manual says every 8 hours - buy a siphon. Why. While you siphon fuel into the tank check the bolts! Then grease. Also remember the bolts in the middle where you split the tractor - if you do anything on the front or back of the tractor (why would you have it if you didn't) these will work loose as well. Don't even get me started on a hidden bolts in backhoes under the operator platform that work loose there is a whole separate set of tools to reach some of them - ugh.
Not a tractor owner here, but I wish the video would have shown the best way to get over 100 ft-lbs. of torque on those rear nuts that are so deeply recessed into the wheel. It seems to me that you would need a deep socket and about a 6 inch extension and a long socket wrench. With two hands pulling hard on the wrench, how do you keep the socket from slipping off?
More like a 12 or 18 inch extension for those wheels on the back of the L series, I use a 10 inch extension and deep socket for the wheels on my BX2680...no way you are getting to them without extensions, then you have to remember anything you put on the end of that torque wrench actually causes a little bit of torque loss, but nothing you really can do about that when you have to use extensions.
Haven't had any problems with the socket slipping off the lug nuts or bolts....that's usually caused by not having the proper size socket or wrench in the first place. Gotta make sure you are getting a straight line shot at the fastener, being off to the side or up or down will cause you to have an oops moment with a socket or wrench slipping off a fastener.
@@wildbill23c They sell little digital torque adapters that fit right between the extension and the socket. You can use a regular breaker bar and extension and still check the actual torque.
@@scottsmith2052 How accurate do you suppose those are? I've seen several of those around just never really figured they were even close to being accurate...although the least of my worries is getting lug nuts and other bolts exactly torqued down on a machine that vibrates and bounces around loosening every fastener over time anyways LOL.
@@wildbill23c I am looking at one on Amazon for $80 and +/- 2% accuracy, with a certificate of calibration. More than good enough for tractor tires regardless.
@@scottsmith2052 Hmm, thanks...May pick one up.
I checked mine at first 50 hours and i had a stud that was stripped. Nut just kept spinning. Got that swapped out while under warranty
Those nuts (lug nuts) do not go to the frame of the machine!
You misspelled paintstick in the description. You forgot the T and called it “painstick” but I guess it sorta technically correct name as it stops some pain later.
Painsticks do exist, my mama used one on me growing up, they are also called switches. They are a great form of motivation lol!
Neil I like your paint stick suggesting but you forgot that the problem is still there. I wonder if a owner could rent or borrow a high torque wrench from an auto parts or equipment rental store.
Advance and AutoZone have them in the loan a tool program
I once bought a new MF tractor ,one hour into its first day of field work the front wheel fell off ,bad enough ,but also broke the stubb axle as it dropped onto a large rock ,no comeback from dealer as i got the blame for not checking it over on delivery
Clean that machine!
Use torque stripe. Not paint
Interesting
Weather Control? Too far... keep up the good work!
My way: small nuts/bolts nr 1 on the impact gun, larger nr 2 and big ones nr 3. Or then a torsionbar...
At least over here a 1/2" torquewrench for "wheelchanging" cost 40$, there is no need for a expensive tool for checking bolts on a tractor. When one takes the engine apart it's another ballgame...