A tip from Sandra Betzina from years ago: apply your fusible interfacing to your fabric first, THEN cut out your patten pieces. It saves time over cutting the same pieces out twice in two fabrics and then trying to match them up.
I went to the fabric store today and was overwhelmed by all the interfacing options. I wish I watched this beforehand. I feel ready to go back and choose!
Thank you so much for this very useful learning video. I've used interfacing for homesewing for more than 30 years and I learn so much still. A couple of years ago a friend taught me to felt. I made a woollen felted shawl that was so fine that I thought it might collapse as it ages. So I bought the finest fine interfacing (papery, silky, almost) that glues on both sides (it is so fine that the glue on the one side basically works on both sides of it) and I fused that to my very fine woollen shawl (which for practical purposes is now a wall adornment only). I wonder what else people would use such fine interfacing for? My usual go-to is much sturdier interfacing for shirt cuffs and collars.
Thanks for another great video! I've always wondered how bubbles happened in interfacing, and now I know! Would love to know more about sew-in interfacing, too.
For a wall hanging, which weight and type of interfacing should I use for fusing felt (thick) shapes onto hand-painted fabric? The fabric paints I use are heat-set onto the fabric, and then washed and dried.
To fuse one fabric to another, you'll need paper backed fusible web rather than a fusible interfacing. Heatnbond and Trans Web are a couple of brands to look into for this.
Just a suggestion-I always like to find a link to what the person is wearing also! I just happen to know the top you’re wearing, but perhaps others like it and want the pattern!
I love Seamwork videos! They're so informative. I'd love to know where a good place to shop for quality interfacing, especially knit. I didn't know about that.
This is a great video, thank you! Very helpful for beginners,I'll know to watch these ones first. However, I was wondering if there is such a thing as double sided iron on interfacing, where it is sticky on both sides? if so where do I get this, its for a craft project making a purse with cotton fabric? again thank you.
Hi! Thank you so much for explaining it so well. I’m a self taught “sewist”, I learned from TH-cam & have a little bit of experience. I’m getting more into garment sewing and I just purchased a Western Button Up shirt pattern, I believe it called for PELLON SF101, BUT my husband likes his collars very stiff, do you think I should move to a medium weight??? I’m making my littles button ups but would like stiff collars…
1. you can always double the lighter weight interfacing if one layer doesn't give the stiffness he likes. 2. interface both the collar and undercollar for added stiffness.
I do want to know about non-fusible interfacing. I have a costume I'm working on that calls for sewn-in . It is used on banding trim that is attached to the tapered hem, front, and areas around the neckline. I had trouble with buckling as I sewed it on the banding until I sewed with fabric on top and interfacing down. Now my worry is sewing the bands to the dress without more buckling. It will be sewn on right side banding to wrong side skirt, trimmed and clipped and turned to right side and pressed and topstitched in place. How can I avoid tucks and buckling when I topstitch? I will pin thoroughly! Help!
Generally you can use the pattern piece you're planning to interface to cut your interfacing. Some people choose to trim away the seam allowance on the interfacing to reduce bulk, but that isn't required, it's more of a personal preference.
I would like to know more about interfacing.I've only used non woven interfacing so have lots left.Would you advice getting rid of it and purchasing woven interfacing
My interfacing never stays permanent, like it stands for a couple months in the wash sure, but then it ends up unsticking itself from the fabric. (it stays sewn of course but it loses all stiffness) Is there something I'm doing wrong or does that happen to everyone after some time ?
It could be a couple of things! You might not be fully fusing it, or it could be a lower quality interfacing. We really like Palmer & Pletsch Perfect Fuse interfacing: www.palmerpletsch.com/product-category/interfacings/
Hi, I have this affliction. I want to keep as little plastic, like polyester, polyamid and such out of our environment as I can. I'm also a rookie sewer. I've noticed that most interfacings are made of some type of plastic or another, and if it's made of cotton, the glue is usually made out of plastic. I've seen somewhere that you can find cotton batist or organdy (it might even have been organic) to use, but how would you do that? I would be most grateful if someone could explain. What I want to do is to put interfacing together with a lovely but thin linnen cotton blend, glen check for a pair of trousers, to keep the fashion fabric from wrinkling too badly, and to be just a bit more substantial. Just to be clear: I have no issue with people using polyester or any other type of petroleum based product, at all. That's up to each individual to decide for themselves. It's just a case of, I want to avoid it wherever possible. I also like to use as much organic everything as I can, and save up my carbon footprint for traveling, when we can travel again. -May it be soon. Thank you. Yours, Ann
Interfacing doesn't have to fuse to a fabric for you to use it. It's just a fast way to baste it onto the fashion fabric. It will come unglued over time, which is why it gets secured at the seams later. You can use anything as an interfacing, because all it's doing is providing support and structure to the areas it's used on. Interlining is when the entire pattern piece is supported in that manner. What you're going to do is cut your organdy (or batiste or taffeta or flannel) to the interfacing shape (Make sure you cut it on the grain line indicated), baste it on either by hand or with long machine stitches in the seam allowance area. BOOP! There it is! Just like my mom used to do. And it's not an affliction. Trying to keep it simple is a good idea. I am old and full of chemicals, so I'm cutting back where I can.
@@Erni3K Hi, Thank you so much. This gives me an idea of what to do to make those trousers a little bit more structured. I will try this method with other things too. I can relate to being old, as I'm definitively not as young as I used to be, and with the full of chemicals, too I'm afraid. Again, thank you for taking the time. Yours, Ann
I just bought some interfacing fabric from a store, they sold it per 10cm, but I do not know which side is glue or not glue... the shiny part is the glue part where we iron on? thx
Hello i'm a man and I have a pair of trousers that I like but one of the front pokets has a hole in the inside. Can I use this interfacing to cover the hole... I don't know how to sew, and don´'t have the matirials and skils.
Is interfacing has to be a specific type of fabric? Or the fabric itself, that's used for that, is called interfacing? + Thank you so much for a great video.
Fusible interfacing is meant to be permanent, so it can be kinda hard to remove it, especially if you're using a high quality interfacing. You can try reactivating the glue with your iron and peeling it off. This will probably distort whatever fabric it's glued to. If the fusible glue got onto your fabric where it shouldn't have, you can try laying a damp piece of scrap fabric over the area. Iron for 5 to 10 seconds, then remove the scrap and repeat with a fresh fabric scrap until the adhesive is removed. If you need to get fusible off your iron's face plate, a magic eraser works pretty well. We also suggest you always use a press cloth whenever you're fusing interfacing to prevent the glue form getting on your iron and ironing board.
I would love to know some online resources for good quality fusible. All I kind find is Pellon which I've had terrible results with in the past. Great video btw!
@@SeamworkVideo you are so nice! Thank you! You have great patterns and I love your philosophy about accepting our bodies! We need that kind of positive reinforcement in this world!
Thank you for such an informative video! I was wondering, if I'm using interfacing on the interior of a skirt (I want to give structure to the material I chose), do I have to cover it up on the inside? Or can it be exposed on the interior (i.e. you just can't see it from the outside)
It's more of a preference thing. I personally don't like the feeling of most interfacings on the skin, nor do I like the look of them. A lining conceals the interfacing, has a better feel and finish on the skin, and just makes the garment look more complete. If you are making a costume garment that will not necessarily be seen up close/on the inside, then it is up to you, you may not need a lining. But if it is a daily wearable garment, I would suggest using a lining. It definitely takes more time to sew and apply a lining, but it is worth it.
A tip from Sandra Betzina from years ago: apply your fusible interfacing to your fabric first, THEN cut out your patten pieces. It saves time over cutting the same pieces out twice in two fabrics and then trying to match them up.
I went to the fabric store today and was overwhelmed by all the interfacing options. I wish I watched this beforehand. I feel ready to go back and choose!
Thank you so much for this very useful learning video. I've used interfacing for homesewing for more than 30 years and I learn so much still. A couple of years ago a friend taught me to felt. I made a woollen felted shawl that was so fine that I thought it might collapse as it ages. So I bought the finest fine interfacing (papery, silky, almost) that glues on both sides (it is so fine that the glue on the one side basically works on both sides of it) and I fused that to my very fine woollen shawl (which for practical purposes is now a wall adornment only). I wonder what else people would use such fine interfacing for? My usual go-to is much sturdier interfacing for shirt cuffs and collars.
Yes to sew in interfacing info!
Thanks for another great video! I've always wondered how bubbles happened in interfacing, and now I know! Would love to know more about sew-in interfacing, too.
I love seam work videos, keep them them coming
By the way loved the way you talk and joy in explaing
For a wall hanging, which weight and type of interfacing should I use for fusing felt (thick) shapes onto hand-painted fabric? The fabric paints I use are heat-set onto the fabric, and then washed and dried.
To fuse one fabric to another, you'll need paper backed fusible web rather than a fusible interfacing. Heatnbond and Trans Web are a couple of brands to look into for this.
Learned a lot. What type of interfacing do you recommend for silk duponio? Can I use the the same fabric as the interfacing?
Just a suggestion-I always like to find a link to what the person is wearing also! I just happen to know the top you’re wearing, but perhaps others like it and want the pattern!
I love Seamwork videos! They're so informative. I'd love to know where a good place to shop for quality interfacing, especially knit. I didn't know about that.
looking forward to sew in interfacing tutorial next
Thank you so much for this video! Very helpful 🪡🎇
Glad it was helpful!
Wow! That was so informative
Can you do a video where you cut, iron and see a fusible interface on a neckline?
Yes to sew in interfacing info 🔥
Thank you for the vid it really help me with my homework I had from school
Glad it helped!
So useful! Thanks ❤
Really liked your video! Great job!
Thank you! So glad you liked it!
Keen to hear more about sew in interfacing thanks.
A nice tutorial video.
Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you so much! Such a great video :D
Glad it was helpful!
Can these fabric be used to underline white see through clothes to make it less see through?
I have bits of left over interfacing but not big enough for the piece I need. Can I use 2 bits for one big piece of fabric?
You might be able to see a line where the pieces join, but we're all for minimizing waste!
I want to use something, maybe interfacing, to make a shirt with a structured and smoothing front. Any Ideas on what to use?
Just use stiffer fabric and skip the interfacing.
understood . well-explained . hope to see more videos .thanks for knowledge
Thanks! We add a new video every week!
@@SeamworkVideo ok . That's sound interesting. I will look to it
This is a great video, thank you! Very helpful for beginners,I'll know to watch these ones first. However, I was wondering if there is such a thing as double sided iron on interfacing, where it is sticky on both sides? if so where do I get this, its for a craft project making a purse with cotton fabric? again thank you.
Pellon has a couple double sided fusible interfacings!
Hi! Thank you so much for explaining it so well. I’m a self taught “sewist”, I learned from TH-cam & have a little bit of experience. I’m getting more into garment sewing and I just purchased a Western Button Up shirt pattern, I believe it called for PELLON SF101, BUT my husband likes his collars very stiff, do you think I should move to a medium weight??? I’m making my littles button ups but would like stiff collars…
It depends on the fabric you're using! I like to have a variety of fusible interfacing on hand so I can make test samples.
1. you can always double the lighter weight interfacing if one layer doesn't give the stiffness he likes. 2. interface both the collar and undercollar for added stiffness.
@@kquilter6043 thank you so much
I do want to know about non-fusible interfacing. I have a costume I'm working on that calls for sewn-in . It is used on banding trim that is attached to the tapered hem, front, and areas around the neckline. I had trouble with buckling as I sewed it on the banding until I sewed with fabric on top and interfacing down. Now my worry is sewing the bands to the dress without more buckling. It will be sewn on right side banding to wrong side skirt, trimmed and clipped and turned to right side and pressed and topstitched in place. How can I avoid tucks and buckling when I topstitch? I will pin thoroughly! Help!
Thank you. It would really be appreciated
How would you create a pattern for interfacing?
Generally you can use the pattern piece you're planning to interface to cut your interfacing. Some people choose to trim away the seam allowance on the interfacing to reduce bulk, but that isn't required, it's more of a personal preference.
Excellent info!
If I mend a small hole with fusible interfacing will it lift off in the wash. ? Thank you
Yes it will.
I would like to know more about interfacing.I've only used non woven interfacing so have lots left.Would you advice getting rid of it and purchasing woven interfacing
@ Maureen Cullen. ... a little tip, . . . non woven is great for projects you don't put through the dryer. Best for crafts. Does that help ?
Is there a printed sheet with information on types and weights of interfacing that you can recommend
That's a great idea! I don't know of any, but perhaps we'll make one!
My interfacing never stays permanent, like it stands for a couple months in the wash sure, but then it ends up unsticking itself from the fabric. (it stays sewn of course but it loses all stiffness) Is there something I'm doing wrong or does that happen to everyone after some time ?
It could be a couple of things! You might not be fully fusing it, or it could be a lower quality interfacing. We really like Palmer & Pletsch Perfect Fuse interfacing: www.palmerpletsch.com/product-category/interfacings/
Where can I buy good woven interfacing?
+1 for sew-in interfacing please
Iron on or sew on interfacing ? What is the different when to use when ?
Hi, I have this affliction. I want to keep as little plastic, like polyester, polyamid and such out of our environment as I can. I'm also a rookie sewer. I've noticed that most interfacings are made of some type of plastic or another, and if it's made of cotton, the glue is usually made out of plastic.
I've seen somewhere that you can find cotton batist or organdy (it might even have been organic) to use, but how would you do that? I would be most grateful if someone could explain. What I want to do is to put interfacing together with a lovely but thin linnen cotton blend, glen check for a pair of trousers, to keep the fashion fabric from wrinkling too badly, and to be just a bit more substantial.
Just to be clear: I have no issue with people using polyester or any other type of petroleum based product, at all. That's up to each individual to decide for themselves. It's just a case of, I want to avoid it wherever possible. I also like to use as much organic everything as I can, and save up my carbon footprint for traveling, when we can travel again. -May it be soon. Thank you. Yours, Ann
Interfacing doesn't have to fuse to a fabric for you to use it. It's just a fast way to baste it onto the fashion fabric. It will come unglued over time, which is why it gets secured at the seams later. You can use anything as an interfacing, because all it's doing is providing support and structure to the areas it's used on. Interlining is when the entire pattern piece is supported in that manner.
What you're going to do is cut your organdy (or batiste or taffeta or flannel) to the interfacing shape (Make sure you cut it on the grain line indicated), baste it on either by hand or with long machine stitches in the seam allowance area. BOOP! There it is! Just like my mom used to do.
And it's not an affliction. Trying to keep it simple is a good idea. I am old and full of chemicals, so I'm cutting back where I can.
@@Erni3K Hi, Thank you so much. This gives me an idea of what to do to make those trousers a little bit more structured. I will try this method with other things too. I can relate to being old, as I'm definitively not as young as I used to be, and with the full of chemicals, too I'm afraid. Again, thank you for taking the time. Yours, Ann
Is it necessary to pre wash interfacing ?
No, but you should definitely pre-treat your fabric in the same way you intend to launder the finished garment! It'll help the fusible adhere better.
If I make a dress, is it bad to use interfacing on everything? Also, why do some say to put interfacing on the linging?
I just bought some interfacing fabric from a store, they sold it per 10cm, but I do not know which side is glue or not glue... the shiny part is the glue part where we iron on? thx
SO helpful!!!
Hello i'm a man and I have a pair of trousers that I like but one of the front pokets has a hole in the inside. Can I use this interfacing to cover the hole... I don't know how to sew, and don´'t have the matirials and skils.
Fusible interfacing isn't a great mending option. Check out "Dritz iron-on patches" for covering holes.
@@SeamworkVideo Thank you
@@domspider1 of course! A local tailor would also be able to help!
@@SeamworkVideo My mother is a sewinger, but I want to solve the problem by my self...
@@domspider1 I bet she appreciates you fixing it yourself!
Is interfacing has to be a specific type of fabric?
Or the fabric itself, that's used for that, is called interfacing?
+ Thank you so much for a great video.
Thank you for this, very useful. Do you have any tips for removing iron-on interfacing? Thank you :)
Fusible interfacing is meant to be permanent, so it can be kinda hard to remove it, especially if you're using a high quality interfacing. You can try reactivating the glue with your iron and peeling it off. This will probably distort whatever fabric it's glued to.
If the fusible glue got onto your fabric where it shouldn't have, you can try laying a damp piece of scrap fabric over the area. Iron for 5 to 10 seconds, then remove the scrap and repeat with a fresh fabric scrap until the adhesive is removed.
If you need to get fusible off your iron's face plate, a magic eraser works pretty well. We also suggest you always use a press cloth whenever you're fusing interfacing to prevent the glue form getting on your iron and ironing board.
Thank you for your help. Very much appreciated :)
I just pull it off. Fusible interfacing just comes off easily enough. No damage to the fabric.
Great I instructions!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I would love to know some online resources for good quality fusible. All I kind find is Pellon which I've had terrible results with in the past. Great video btw!
I've had good results with this interfacing: www.palmerpletsch.com/product-category/interfacings/
Thank you for the video! One question, could you tell me what kind of microphone you are using for the video? Thank you!
We use the Sennheiser EW 112P G4 wireless lav mic!
@@SeamworkVideo you are so nice! Thank you! You have great patterns and I love your philosophy about accepting our bodies! We need that kind of positive reinforcement in this world!
Thank you for such an informative video! I was wondering, if I'm using interfacing on the interior of a skirt (I want to give structure to the material I chose), do I have to cover it up on the inside? Or can it be exposed on the interior (i.e. you just can't see it from the outside)
It's more of a preference thing. I personally don't like the feeling of most interfacings on the skin, nor do I like the look of them. A lining conceals the interfacing, has a better feel and finish on the skin, and just makes the garment look more complete. If you are making a costume garment that will not necessarily be seen up close/on the inside, then it is up to you, you may not need a lining. But if it is a daily wearable garment, I would suggest using a lining. It definitely takes more time to sew and apply a lining, but it is worth it.