Hey Rich, take a look at the Barnacle Buster setup that includes a bucket feed loop. We broke down are rebuilding our 4.108 from scratch, but the Barnacle Buster (They sell it at West Marine) was amazing to see in action. We plan on keeping the bucket and 2 to 3 bottles aboard when we take off for the pacific in a few months. PS: Thanks for the Varnish Tips via email last year, perfect combo. -Matt and Jen - Baba 35 "Babido"
Right on, and glad the varnish tips worked out. Big love for fellow Perry Boats. Thinking about barnacle buster, but found some things in the engine tear-down this weekend that lead me to believe that it's on the anti-freeze side of the cooling system. New vid out late this week.....
You two always think it through! You'll get it. My money is on a simple matter of a bad thermostat. Remove and put in boiling water to see if it expands. If not, replace with a new one. Good luck.
Still working through it, but I think I'm narrowing it down. Did the thermostat boil in a pot last year, but stay tuned, we're making progress in the teardown.
Ah, you are keeping us in suspense…. Of all the SVRO videos I have watched this must be the first one with a bit of frustration coming through and yet you keep filming and sharing your ideas with us. Thank you for that. I’m looking forward to the next episode where you will reveal the cause of this mystery. 🤞
Thanks Torsten, I'm thinking it's the coolant pump, but I'm going to pull it and see. The raw water side seems fine, but I'm going to pull the exhaust manifold as well.
Any news on your over heating issues. Now that the pumps and the thermostat have been ruled out, and your heat exchanger is good, maybe collapsed hoses?
Since you already cleaned the heat exchanger, blockages and mineral deposits on either side of it (raw & fresh) can be ruled out and its heat transfer properties should be good. That means the issue is with the flow rate on either side of the heat exchanger. Have you collected any of the exhaust water and determined if heat is being transferred to it? The temperature can help you determine your next step. You can check the raw side flow rate by looking at the wet exhaust port. I'm assuming that you think the raw water flow, coming out of the exhaust port, is the same as it has been in the past (when the engine cooling was good). If the exhaust water is very hot, then there's a flow rate problem on the raw water side. Since you've already checked that the flow rate through the sea strainer is OK, and you've replaced the raw water impeller, your next step is to pull the exhaust elbow and check for internal corrosion. It could be where the elbow mates with the heat exchanger. Looking into the elbow's water injection port might show it, but it's not a complete corrosion check. If the fresh water pump isn't pumping enough, or the thermostat isn't allowing any or enough flow thru the heat exchanger, the raw water exhaust will be cool.
Another possibility for a flow rate problem (raw or fresh water) could be an air lock , but I'd worry about that last. th-cam.com/video/zdkp9N3qfkI/w-d-xo.html
A laser thermometer can make this easier to test. The thermostat should open in the range of 160F to 180F (maybe not specifically for your engine, but approximately). The fresh water temperature difference in/out of the heat exchanger should be 10F to 20F, and the raw water temperature difference should be 60F to 80F. So, just read the temps at each point for more clues.
Cyclops, thank you so much for the detailed replies. These are some of the best comments we've received so far. I plan to pull the mixing elbow along with the exhaust manifold and engine oil/trans cooler for a thorough cleaning. As of now I'm thinking it may be the coolant pump on the serpentine belt, so I'm pulling that next. I'll let you know...
Great channel. Did you measure the raw water temperature difference between the inlet and outlet? You want it less than 20 degrees F. I know you think that elbow is unrestricted but might be good to verify that the temp differential is proper. I have a more chronic issue on my Westerbeke W50 where I can't bring the RPMs up to where I want but I'm going to check this temperature myself to be sure. Part of me thinks my issue is related to a new and perhaps late opening thermostat but I also know the elbow hasn't been checked or replaced.
I'm assuming that you've not recently changed your propeller or transmission. If the difference between your expected and actual max RPMs is large, I'd suspect a deficiency in the amount of supplied fuel, and/or air supply. Engine temperature will definitely make a difference in efficiency, and longevity, but a smaller possible effect on max RPM. If you've got a high output alternator, the horsepower it consumes can also add up and reduce max engine RPM. It takes about 1hp to generate every 25 amps.
I suspect the exhaust elbow is severely corroded and partial blockage. You can’t properly inspect the elbow by pulling the hose and viewing it like you did in your video, the corrosion/blockage is further up stream. Remove the elbow entirely from the head. Good luck!
Thanks Kevin, I think I'm going to pull the whole exhaust manifold including the mixing elbow off the engine, along with the engine oil/transmission cooler for a hot-tank treatment.
Thanks Greg, but I checked that with the elevation of the engine and even bypassed the waterheater as the high-point in the system. Still working on it, but narrowing it down.
@@svrambleon right now i have 620ah @ 48v just need to take out the old motor, get the new one and how how well it does, i know my slocum is pretty close in size to your tayana, 43 feet 28000 pounds. I am going with an air cooled electric so i don't have to deal with any heat exchangers or pump impellers.
This is an oil cooling problem NOT a water cooling one. Please look at that end and not the water cooling end Rich. This is my 40 years of Marine Engineering experience talking.
Thanks Geir, and two thumbs up for the recommendation. I mentioned the oil cooler in this video, but stay tuned this week as I start stripping engine-cooled appurtenances from the 4-108. I found some crystalized coolant chunks in the exhaust manifold, and I suspect the same in the oil/trans cooler. Thanks again for the input, and I'll let you know what I find as I tear into this blue brick that leaks more oil than the Exxon Valdez.
Also man, let me know if you've had experience with reactions to certain "environmentally friendly" anti-freeze solutions/brands. That crystallization in the coolant side has me stumped. I'd appreciate your input on what to run in this 45 year-old workhorse.
another subject to explore in your next episode! Thank you for keeping us excited and impatient for the next episode of the engine saga....
13:45 that transition
Hey Rich, take a look at the Barnacle Buster setup that includes a bucket feed loop. We broke down are rebuilding our 4.108 from scratch, but the Barnacle Buster (They sell it at West Marine) was amazing to see in action. We plan on keeping the bucket and 2 to 3 bottles aboard when we take off for the pacific in a few months. PS: Thanks for the Varnish Tips via email last year, perfect combo. -Matt and Jen - Baba 35 "Babido"
Right on, and glad the varnish tips worked out. Big love for fellow Perry Boats. Thinking about barnacle buster, but found some things in the engine tear-down this weekend that lead me to believe that it's on the anti-freeze side of the cooling system. New vid out late this week.....
Another great episode guys…
You two always think it through! You'll get it. My money is on a simple matter of a bad thermostat. Remove and put in boiling water to see if it expands. If not, replace with a new one. Good luck.
Still working through it, but I think I'm narrowing it down. Did the thermostat boil in a pot last year, but stay tuned, we're making progress in the teardown.
Ah, you are keeping us in suspense…. Of all the SVRO videos I have watched this must be the first one with a bit of frustration coming through and yet you keep filming and sharing your ideas with us. Thank you for that. I’m looking forward to the next episode where you will reveal the cause of this mystery. 🤞
Thanks Torsten, I'm thinking it's the coolant pump, but I'm going to pull it and see. The raw water side seems fine, but I'm going to pull the exhaust manifold as well.
Had same thing happen. Turned out to be a collapsed hose just downstream of exhaust elbow.
It was before I got rid of the gel. Many many times. Mine runs really cool now. It was in the cylinder jackets…
Any news on your over heating issues. Now that the pumps and the thermostat have been ruled out, and your heat exchanger is good, maybe collapsed hoses?
Since you already cleaned the heat exchanger, blockages and mineral deposits on either side of it (raw & fresh) can be ruled out and its heat transfer properties should be good. That means the issue is with the flow rate on either side of the heat exchanger.
Have you collected any of the exhaust water and determined if heat is being transferred to it? The temperature can help you determine your next step.
You can check the raw side flow rate by looking at the wet exhaust port. I'm assuming that you think the raw water flow, coming out of the exhaust port, is the same as it has been in the past (when the engine cooling was good). If the exhaust water is very hot, then there's a flow rate problem on the raw water side. Since you've already checked that the flow rate through the sea strainer is OK, and you've replaced the raw water impeller, your next step is to pull the exhaust elbow and check for internal corrosion. It could be where the elbow mates with the heat exchanger. Looking into the elbow's water injection port might show it, but it's not a complete corrosion check.
If the fresh water pump isn't pumping enough, or the thermostat isn't allowing any or enough flow thru the heat exchanger, the raw water exhaust will be cool.
Another possibility for a flow rate problem (raw or fresh water) could be an air lock , but I'd worry about that last. th-cam.com/video/zdkp9N3qfkI/w-d-xo.html
A laser thermometer can make this easier to test. The thermostat should open in the range of 160F to 180F (maybe not specifically for your engine, but approximately). The fresh water temperature difference in/out of the heat exchanger should be 10F to 20F, and the raw water temperature difference should be 60F to 80F. So, just read the temps at each point for more clues.
Cyclops, thank you so much for the detailed replies. These are some of the best comments we've received so far. I plan to pull the mixing elbow along with the exhaust manifold and engine oil/trans cooler for a thorough cleaning. As of now I'm thinking it may be the coolant pump on the serpentine belt, so I'm pulling that next. I'll let you know...
@@svrambleon Have you been able to measure the temperature at various points?
Great channel. Did you measure the raw water temperature difference between the inlet and outlet? You want it less than 20 degrees F. I know you think that elbow is unrestricted but might be good to verify that the temp differential is proper. I have a more chronic issue on my Westerbeke W50 where I can't bring the RPMs up to where I want but I'm going to check this temperature myself to be sure. Part of me thinks my issue is related to a new and perhaps late opening thermostat but I also know the elbow hasn't been checked or replaced.
Thanks Jesse, I'm going pull the mixing elbow and check out the freshwater pump. I'm suspecting no coolant circulation, but we'll see.
I'm assuming that you've not recently changed your propeller or transmission. If the difference between your expected and actual max RPMs is large, I'd suspect a deficiency in the amount of supplied fuel, and/or air supply. Engine temperature will definitely make a difference in efficiency, and longevity, but a smaller possible effect on max RPM. If you've got a high output alternator, the horsepower it consumes can also add up and reduce max engine RPM. It takes about 1hp to generate every 25 amps.
Have you tried running barnacle buster through your cooling system? Videos on you tube how to do it.
I suspect the exhaust elbow is severely corroded and partial blockage. You can’t properly inspect the elbow by pulling the hose and viewing it like you did in your video, the corrosion/blockage is further up stream. Remove the elbow entirely from the head. Good luck!
Thanks Kevin, I think I'm going to pull the whole exhaust manifold including the mixing elbow off the engine, along with the engine oil/transmission cooler for a hot-tank treatment.
Air trapped in coolant system?
Thanks Greg, but I checked that with the elevation of the engine and even bypassed the waterheater as the high-point in the system. Still working on it, but narrowing it down.
Pretty much why i am going electric after my motor died on my sailboat.
Let me know how it works out. We have 800ah LiFePo wired in parallel @ 12 volts, but we'll see what happens with the diesel....
@@svrambleon right now i have 620ah @ 48v just need to take out the old motor, get the new one and how how well it does, i know my slocum is pretty close in size to your tayana, 43 feet 28000 pounds. I am going with an air cooled electric so i don't have to deal with any heat exchangers or pump impellers.
All you need are 18 batteries filled with toxic metals, and you might be able to go almost two miles on one charge.
This is an oil cooling problem NOT a water cooling one. Please look at that end and not the water cooling end Rich. This is my 40 years of Marine Engineering experience talking.
Thanks Geir, and two thumbs up for the recommendation. I mentioned the oil cooler in this video, but stay tuned this week as I start stripping engine-cooled appurtenances from the 4-108. I found some crystalized coolant chunks in the exhaust manifold, and I suspect the same in the oil/trans cooler. Thanks again for the input, and I'll let you know what I find as I tear into this blue brick that leaks more oil than the Exxon Valdez.
Also man, let me know if you've had experience with reactions to certain "environmentally friendly" anti-freeze solutions/brands. That crystallization in the coolant side has me stumped. I'd appreciate your input on what to run in this 45 year-old workhorse.