The image of the Louvre with the dark filter was a genius idea. Most people would assume you need a worldwide pandemic to get a shot with no tourists ;)
The use of super heavy ND and long exposures to cut out crowds is brilliant, never thought of that. The results of the red filter are also very interesting. Never been a big fan of B&W but I actually really like the way that sky comes out. Good video, makes me wish I'd win the lottery even more, ha.
Another GREAT and VALUABLE video. All your content are always super accurate, relevant, unbiased and credible, professional, easy to understand and apply, well presented and short & sweet. Many thanks for your efforts at giving back.
Really nice to see someone still talking about filters in a time where the more click baity you tubers are telling the world they are outdated and we should do everything in post. I much prefer to use filters as my mind is just not good at imagining results. I also feel that why not use the best tools for the job, sometimes that may be to use filters, other times it may be to work more in post. As for UV filters, I own 12 of them exclusively for shooting windsurfing from a RIB. I have a bucket of clean water to throw the salty ones in as the day goes on and clean them at the end of each session. That way I can make quick swaps so I don’t miss any of the action in races etc. It is the only time they get used.
This is a great tutorial video on filters. Thank you, I have learned so much about it individually and I can use on it diligently. This is interesting, I thought I am the only one who does not like UV filter as I do not like an extra glass. =)
A note about polarizers - they won't cut reflection off metal. (The polarizers worked on the car shots in the video because the light was being reflected off paint and other coatings, not bare metal.) Window glass, water, the sheen of water on wet leaves or pavement, etc, but not metal.
Hi Dave, yes a single polariser doesn't work on bare metal as the way electromagnetic radiation reflects from metal is different to most other substances. In fact in cases where polarisers work people are often confused that the polariser is polarising the light when in fact the reflected light is already polarised and the filter depolarises it. With metal surfaces in a studio environment it is possible to create the effect of polarisation by first polarising the light by placing a polarising gel on the light hitting the metal and then a polarising filter on the camera lens, this form of double polarisation allows you to remove a significant amount of reflection from metal in a studio environment. I demonstrated this in a recent live show - www.karltayloreducation.com/class/live-workshop-polarising-studio-light-and-why/
Thank you for such an informative video. I am about to invest in a filter system and this has helped me to understand the concept of filters very much.
HI Karl, love that overview. Maybe it is worth mentioning that (circular) polarizers tend to have limitations when using super wide angle lenses, e.g. in landscape photography and having a blue sky. Depending on the angle of the lens, but also the angle of the shot you might end up with an uneven distribution of the polarization effect. So depending on what effect is needed for the shot one has to consider that and be more careful in execution. Regarding ND filters, inverse grad filters we not mentioned, they help me a lot during sunset or sunrise. What is your view on that?
Very nicely explained but these days the question is how much weight you can carry on your holidays.My wife considers my camera bag as my favourite wife and the tripod as my baby which she has to carry.She climbs the hill like a goat and me like an elephant had to follow up slow.
Sorry Karl as much as I am following you over the years you actually advertise the ND filters brands which are at the moment outdated. Kase filters and Haida is something what Lee filters used to be for us 15 years ago. Video is great as usual, but check Kase filters UK.. May ask them for cooperation, because you'll be surprised by the quality and inovativon. I sold Lee filters 4 years ago.
Hi thanks for the info. I'm very happy with the filters I use though, they do what I need and help me deliver the pictures that I do. I can't see there will be anything groundbreaking in lens filters that will dramatically change the outcome of the results. If anything the most dramatic changes are going to come from sensors that will automatically distinguish the sky and foreground areas and create a feathered exposure mask across the sensor through the use of internal ND via ISO or something. I know some camera manufacturers have experimented with this but none have really nailed it. In the studio the IRND filters from LEE are better than any brand I've see, they were developed for Panavision for the film industry.
@@VisualEducationStudio with your attention to detail and shooting high megapixel large format camera I am sure there will be. Just the fact that filters nowadays are 1.1mm instead of 2mm and polariser is actually magnetic (with the ability to be charged quickly for magnetic ND) and goes behind the square filters instead of on front of them. As you have very good understanding of how light act in different situations the fact that you using super white glass with IR coating which is half the thickness of Lee filters is already a game changer. Not only you can stack more, which I won't suggest, but sharpness, contrast are on different level not mentioning flare. You should try. I sure that someone with your skills and name could easily ask for free demo. Have a nice weekend Karl!
I love my Lee Filters as a landscape photographer. Having these in the bag is as essential as my lenses and memory cards! I use a tandem adapter to link 2 holders together, very useful when shooting waterfalls or sea spray to hold back highlights on the angle. Using filters takes your photography to a whole new level in my opinion.
Thank you for the video. Now I know why I would buy a set of filters. I doubted, but now I know they are necessary. But I will buy plastic filters, 24 different + mounts for all lens sizes. This way I will be able to look at all existing filters.
I heard the UV filters are good with film cameras. I have a question for you. When you are shooting a long exposure do you get hotspots on your images due to sensor heating up ?
Great and very useful video! I bought a lot of old filters with vintage lenses and was looking for info about type of filters. What's green and yellow filters for? Thanks Karl
Nice video Karl! FYI, the Nisi filter holder system is light years ahead of Lee! Nisi has there polarizer positioned in the front of the 2 slots where it should be because the Lee one you have is on the outside of the holder and it leaks light and has horrible vignette! Fact...
Hi Zeppy. Let me correct you right there. NiSi's positioning of the Polarizer in front of the lens has nothing to do with light leaks. Rather to counter the vignetting which occurs when using more than one ND filter and a Polarizer on a Super Wide Angle Lens such as a 16-35mm. For this reason Lee has developed what is known as a Wide-Angle Filter Ring which eliminates this problem. Light leaks will generally occur when using a 10-Stop or 15-Stop ND filter which FYI can enter your camera via the viewfinder if using a DSLR. For this reason you'll notice that the 10-Stop shown by Karl in the video has what is known as a gasket to prevent light from entering your camera via the lens or filter system. Note: When using a 10-Stop filter you should always place the filter in the closest slot to your lens on the holder to ensure the gasket works as intended and why some filter holder like Formatt Hitech actually have a built in gasket in their filter holder. Just something I think you should know for future reference.
As usual, a well done and very educational video. You did, however, leave out one of the filters I carry. It is a cheap old non-coated clear filter - perfect for when you want lens flare.
@@VisualEducationStudioWith older lenses we used to smear Vaseline in a disk in the center of the lens or a clear filter on the lens for some portraits. The exposure isn't changed much but the less sharp peripheral rays are what formed the image. The result was a soft focus low contrast image portrait. The result is similar to stretching a piece of thin white* silk fabric (often from a scarf) or white nylon stocking over a lens. If I remember correctly someone sold one of these filters with a ground glass disk in the middle of the filter back in the early 60's. *If anyone is interested, thin black silk fabric or black nylon stockings don't lower the contrast like white does.
Thanks Karl..it is very informative. I have two questions; I use Lee's big stopper. How about using conventional CPL with it? (first cpl then Lee system) Some say it creates weird effect. I have come across an article that says when choosing gradient filter (soft&hard) we should consider lens' focal length in order to get the most effective result. What would you say? Cheers.
1. I can't see why it would unless the big stopper had polarisation in it too, but to my knowledge it is ND only. 2. Nonsense. A straight horizon is a straight horizon on any focal length if the camera is level and interruptions of rocks and trees etc are also interruptions at any focal length, it depends only on the content if the picture.
@@VisualEducationStudio Thanks for answers. Regarding my second question. The article is here www.arthenos.com/hangi-dereceli-nd-filtre-soft-hard/ It is in Turkish but Google helps:) There are also pictured examples. Please check.
Most of the visual effect of a grad comes into play when you are using your lens stopped down to smaller apertures. You can press the stop down button on the camera when you're looking through the lens right down to f22 for example and it allows you to see what affect the grad is having. Try it on 200mm and then on 20mm, you will see some differences yes because of magnification but nothing major and anyway it's good to have both soft and hard grads in your kit, so if you have just a quick test and then you'll know.
Thank you for the filter explanation, Karl! Previously I bought a NiSi set and I mostly like it, but changed the holder and CPL to Kase K9 due to its smaller size and better attenuation of reflections that increase halos when shooting lights at night etc. Also, I rarely use the graduated filters as they make images often look a bit unnatural; and prefer to use exposure stacking when the motive allows it (i.e., is static enough). My C-PL and ND filters get used quite a bit. As to UV filters, I use them on almost all of my lenses (except my 14mm whose huge bulbous front element prevents it), because I mostly shoot outside where dust and other muck tends to stick to it, increasing risks of scratching the front element when cleaning it. Yes, most of my UV filters show signs of being used - they are scratched to different degree, but as long as I don't shoot critical studio work, I prefer to keep them on. A high-quality UV filter like B/W or Zeiss costs around €100 (+/- depending on its diameter) - a high-quality prime lens like a Zeiss Milvus costs 12-20 times as much, so I'm more than willing to accept the slight image quality penalty for having a UV filter screwed on my lens most of the time. :) That said, I fully understand that putting a UV filter on top of a Hasselblad or PhaseOne lens would mostly be both wasteful and detrimental to image quality.
There is one more thing I need to pick out - I like the red filter trick. I've been using IR filters to achieve the night sky effect (plus some more, like more radiant foliage), but the time penalty of it is just huge with an unmodified sensor. On the other hand, it seems that the red filter effect should be easily attainable in post-processing using Phocus, CaptureOne, Lightroom or whatever one is using... is that the case, or are there some differences in favor of the physical red filter in your experience?
Hi red filters are most effective when shooting black and white film. Some digital cameras give you an option to simulate black and white on the preview screen with a shoot in 'monochrome' mode, using a red filter in this situation also allows you to preview the effect rather than have to wait until adjusting in post.
The image of the Louvre with the dark filter was a genius idea. Most people would assume you need a worldwide pandemic to get a shot with no tourists ;)
The use of super heavy ND and long exposures to cut out crowds is brilliant, never thought of that. The results of the red filter are also very interesting. Never been a big fan of B&W but I actually really like the way that sky comes out. Good video, makes me wish I'd win the lottery even more, ha.
Glad it was helpful
Another GREAT and VALUABLE video. All your content are always super accurate, relevant, unbiased and credible, professional, easy to understand and apply, well presented and short & sweet. Many thanks for your efforts at giving back.
I appreciate that, thank you.
Educational and invaluable information as always from a true expert in the field of photography.....
Many thanks!
polarizers don't just remove reflections, they can also boost them by removing half the unpolarized light.
Really nice to see someone still talking about filters in a time where the more click baity you tubers are telling the world they are outdated and we should do everything in post. I much prefer to use filters as my mind is just not good at imagining results. I also feel that why not use the best tools for the job, sometimes that may be to use filters, other times it may be to work more in post.
As for UV filters, I own 12 of them exclusively for shooting windsurfing from a RIB. I have a bucket of clean water to throw the salty ones in as the day goes on and clean them at the end of each session. That way I can make quick swaps so I don’t miss any of the action in races etc. It is the only time they get used.
Yes when there is a definite reason to protect the lens then they are worth it.
uv filters are useful with older lenses that lack proper uv blocking coatings.
I always wanted to enjoy polarizers, I just don't.
Great video of information!!! Thank you!
This is a great tutorial video on filters. Thank you, I have learned so much about it individually and I can use on it diligently. This is interesting, I thought I am the only one who does not like UV filter as I do not like an extra glass. =)
Glad it was helpful!
A note about polarizers - they won't cut reflection off metal. (The polarizers worked on the car shots in the video because the light was being reflected off paint and other coatings, not bare metal.) Window glass, water, the sheen of water on wet leaves or pavement, etc, but not metal.
Hi Dave, yes a single polariser doesn't work on bare metal as the way electromagnetic radiation reflects from metal is different to most other substances. In fact in cases where polarisers work people are often confused that the polariser is polarising the light when in fact the reflected light is already polarised and the filter depolarises it. With metal surfaces in a studio environment it is possible to create the effect of polarisation by first polarising the light by placing a polarising gel on the light hitting the metal and then a polarising filter on the camera lens, this form of double polarisation allows you to remove a significant amount of reflection from metal in a studio environment. I demonstrated this in a recent live show - www.karltayloreducation.com/class/live-workshop-polarising-studio-light-and-why/
Also excellent are Polarpro filters.
Thank you for such an informative video. I am about to invest in a filter system and this has helped me to understand the concept of filters very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks ad always for your valuable content 🥰
pleasure
HI Karl, love that overview. Maybe it is worth mentioning that (circular) polarizers tend to have limitations when using super wide angle lenses, e.g. in landscape photography and having a blue sky. Depending on the angle of the lens, but also the angle of the shot you might end up with an uneven distribution of the polarization effect. So depending on what effect is needed for the shot one has to consider that and be more careful in execution. Regarding ND filters, inverse grad filters we not mentioned, they help me a lot during sunset or sunrise. What is your view on that?
Thanks for the extra info that's useful. I've not heard of inverse grads?
@@VisualEducationStudio Tanks too :) Maybe I used the wrong terminology, LEE sells them as reverse ND filter.
Very nicely explained but these days the question is how much weight you can carry on your holidays.My wife considers my camera bag as my favourite wife and the tripod as my baby which she has to carry.She climbs the hill like a goat and me like an elephant had to follow up slow.
Sorry Karl as much as I am following you over the years you actually advertise the ND filters brands which are at the moment outdated. Kase filters and Haida is something what Lee filters used to be for us 15 years ago. Video is great as usual, but check Kase filters UK.. May ask them for cooperation, because you'll be surprised by the quality and inovativon. I sold Lee filters 4 years ago.
Hi thanks for the info. I'm very happy with the filters I use though, they do what I need and help me deliver the pictures that I do. I can't see there will be anything groundbreaking in lens filters that will dramatically change the outcome of the results. If anything the most dramatic changes are going to come from sensors that will automatically distinguish the sky and foreground areas and create a feathered exposure mask across the sensor through the use of internal ND via ISO or something. I know some camera manufacturers have experimented with this but none have really nailed it. In the studio the IRND filters from LEE are better than any brand I've see, they were developed for Panavision for the film industry.
@@VisualEducationStudio with your attention to detail and shooting high megapixel large format camera I am sure there will be. Just the fact that filters nowadays are 1.1mm instead of 2mm and polariser is actually magnetic (with the ability to be charged quickly for magnetic ND) and goes behind the square filters instead of on front of them. As you have very good understanding of how light act in different situations the fact that you using super white glass with IR coating which is half the thickness of Lee filters is already a game changer. Not only you can stack more, which I won't suggest, but sharpness, contrast are on different level not mentioning flare. You should try. I sure that someone with your skills and name could easily ask for free demo. Have a nice weekend Karl!
I love my Lee Filters as a landscape photographer. Having these in the bag is as essential as my lenses and memory cards! I use a tandem adapter to link 2 holders together, very useful when shooting waterfalls or sea spray to hold back highlights on the angle. Using filters takes your photography to a whole new level in my opinion.
* Cokin intensifies * LOL
Holly cow those new IRND filters are expensive
brilliant!
Great explanation, Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
My best filter's where a stocking and a vignette card for weddings .
Thank you for the video. Now I know why I would buy a set of filters. I doubted, but now I know they are necessary. But I will buy plastic filters, 24 different + mounts for all lens sizes. This way I will be able to look at all existing filters.
Glad it was helpful!
Any thoughts about Black Pro-Mist Filter? Personally I find them very useful to give a specific look to the image, mostly for night images
There are TONS of creative effect lenses like that. It would take him HOURS to go through them all…
Big like👍 thank you for pointing out the difference between circular and linear polarizers. Many people get this wrong,especially in TH-cam.
Thank you! Cheers
B+W here... always wanted to get into the Lee system.
Thanks Karl... Lot of very good and useful information in this one.
Glad you enjoyed it
I heard the UV filters are good with film cameras. I have a question for you. When you are shooting a long exposure do you get hotspots on your images due to sensor heating up ?
Hi no I haven't noticed any hotspots.
You are just that person so good at his act and want us to improve. Thanks for this filters-informative video. I have learnt a great deal.
My pleasure!
I have been waiting for this topic for a long time, many thanks Karl
No worries!
Always clear and accurate informator Karl. Thank you from Canada.
Very welcome
Thanks Karl. Good wrap up mate. Stay safe.
Cheers.
I always learn smth new from you..thanks :)
Thanks John.
Great and very useful video! I bought a lot of old filters with vintage lenses and was looking for info about type of filters. What's green and yellow filters for?
Thanks Karl
Hi Green and Yellow filters were mostly used with black and white film.
@@VisualEducationStudio Thank you!
What is there to add or to comment ?
Excellent explanation !!
Thanks RS
Ace bloke.
cheers
Nice video Karl! FYI, the Nisi filter holder system is light years ahead of Lee! Nisi has there polarizer positioned in the front of the 2 slots where it should be because the Lee one you have is on the outside of the holder and it leaks light and has horrible vignette! Fact...
Thanks for the info!
Hi Zeppy. Let me correct you right there. NiSi's positioning of the Polarizer in front of the lens has nothing to do with light leaks. Rather to counter the vignetting which occurs when using more than one ND filter and a Polarizer on a Super Wide Angle Lens such as a 16-35mm. For this reason Lee has developed what is known as a Wide-Angle Filter Ring which eliminates this problem. Light leaks will generally occur when using a 10-Stop or 15-Stop ND filter which FYI can enter your camera via the viewfinder if using a DSLR. For this reason you'll notice that the 10-Stop shown by Karl in the video has what is known as a gasket to prevent light from entering your camera via the lens or filter system. Note: When using a 10-Stop filter you should always place the filter in the closest slot to your lens on the holder to ensure the gasket works as intended and why some filter holder like Formatt Hitech actually have a built in gasket in their filter holder. Just something I think you should know for future reference.
As usual, a well done and very educational video.
You did, however, leave out one of the filters I carry. It is a cheap old non-coated clear filter - perfect for when you want lens flare.
Yes good point, we also used to use clear ones to smear oil, vaseline and all sorts on back in the day to create strange effects.
@@VisualEducationStudioWith older lenses we used to smear Vaseline in a disk in the center of the lens or a clear filter on the lens for some portraits. The exposure isn't changed much but the less sharp peripheral rays are what formed the image. The result was a soft focus low contrast image portrait. The result is similar to stretching a piece of thin white* silk fabric (often from a scarf) or white nylon stocking over a lens. If I remember correctly someone sold one of these filters with a ground glass disk in the middle of the filter back in the early 60's.
*If anyone is interested, thin black silk fabric or black nylon stockings don't lower the contrast like white does.
Thanks Karl..it is very informative. I have two questions;
I use Lee's big stopper. How about using conventional CPL with it? (first cpl then Lee system) Some say it creates weird effect.
I have come across an article that says when choosing gradient filter (soft&hard) we should consider lens' focal length in order to get the most effective result.
What would you say? Cheers.
1. I can't see why it would unless the big stopper had polarisation in it too, but to my knowledge it is ND only.
2. Nonsense. A straight horizon is a straight horizon on any focal length if the camera is level and interruptions of rocks and trees etc are also interruptions at any focal length, it depends only on the content if the picture.
@@VisualEducationStudio Thanks for answers. Regarding my second question. The article is here www.arthenos.com/hangi-dereceli-nd-filtre-soft-hard/ It is in Turkish but Google helps:) There are also pictured examples. Please check.
Most of the visual effect of a grad comes into play when you are using your lens stopped down to smaller apertures. You can press the stop down button on the camera when you're looking through the lens right down to f22 for example and it allows you to see what affect the grad is having. Try it on 200mm and then on 20mm, you will see some differences yes because of magnification but nothing major and anyway it's good to have both soft and hard grads in your kit, so if you have just a quick test and then you'll know.
Thank you for the filter explanation, Karl!
Previously I bought a NiSi set and I mostly like it, but changed the holder and CPL to Kase K9 due to its smaller size and better attenuation of reflections that increase halos when shooting lights at night etc. Also, I rarely use the graduated filters as they make images often look a bit unnatural; and prefer to use exposure stacking when the motive allows it (i.e., is static enough). My C-PL and ND filters get used quite a bit.
As to UV filters, I use them on almost all of my lenses (except my 14mm whose huge bulbous front element prevents it), because I mostly shoot outside where dust and other muck tends to stick to it, increasing risks of scratching the front element when cleaning it. Yes, most of my UV filters show signs of being used - they are scratched to different degree, but as long as I don't shoot critical studio work, I prefer to keep them on. A high-quality UV filter like B/W or Zeiss costs around €100 (+/- depending on its diameter) - a high-quality prime lens like a Zeiss Milvus costs 12-20 times as much, so I'm more than willing to accept the slight image quality penalty for having a UV filter screwed on my lens most of the time. :)
That said, I fully understand that putting a UV filter on top of a Hasselblad or PhaseOne lens would mostly be both wasteful and detrimental to image quality.
Good points raised for your personal shooting scenario though.
There is one more thing I need to pick out - I like the red filter trick. I've been using IR filters to achieve the night sky effect (plus some more, like more radiant foliage), but the time penalty of it is just huge with an unmodified sensor.
On the other hand, it seems that the red filter effect should be easily attainable in post-processing using Phocus, CaptureOne, Lightroom or whatever one is using... is that the case, or are there some differences in favor of the physical red filter in your experience?
Hi red filters are most effective when shooting black and white film. Some digital cameras give you an option to simulate black and white on the preview screen with a shoot in 'monochrome' mode, using a red filter in this situation also allows you to preview the effect rather than have to wait until adjusting in post.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
🙏🏾
Amazing video
Thanks!
Nice Master 👍
Thank you
Like, thx!
Thank you too
Would you take me as one of your assistants?? I'm serious.
Very useful video , I learned lot from it, looking forward more videos like this keep it up good work, R.manohar , india,chennai
Cheers.